hemispheres - march 2013

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2013 Hemispheheres

THREE PERFECT DAYS IN KELOWNA, B.C.

BRIGHT LIGHTS: WE HEAD TO LAS VEGAS TO CHECK OUT SPRING’S

HOTTEST NEW LOOKS

HOW SELF-DRIVING CARS WILL CHANGE AMERICA

(WARNING: IT COULD BE A BUMPY RIDE)

MATT DAMON ON SOLVING THE WORLD’S

WATER CRISIS—AND IRKING JOHN KRASINSKI

SEEING RED: MEET THE CALIFORNIA VINTNERS

UPROOTING TRADITION IN WINE COUNTRY

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Your Golden Angel

No.34942_Wellendorff DPS.indd 2No.34942_Wellendorff DPS.indd 2 02/01/2013 12:4102/01/2013 12:41

Dear Wellendorff family,Paignton, April 29, 2011

Many years ago, while I was vacationing on the west coast of Denmark, I found an amulet with a hand-painted angel on it. A name and year had been engraved on the back. Since no one claimed the amulet, it became mine, and a talisman that I wore every day.

Several years later I met an Englishman in Munich. He scrutinized my pendant and told me that his late wife used to have an angel just like mine. When we parted he gave me his business card, and my heart almost stood still ... not only did he live in Denmark, his name was the same as the one engraved on the back of the amulet. Yes, it was the sameangel that he had given to his wife on their wedding day.Without hesitation I returned the angel to its proper owner. The situa-tion was upsetting for both of us. I no longer had the guardian angel I had become so fond of and he was reliving sad memories.

A few weeks later he announced he was coming to Munich over Christ-mas. He brought me the amulet back and proposed to me! Despite the objections of my parents and my son, who was then 20, I married the man who was still almost a stranger, in a very quiet ceremony in Den-mark.

In our case the amulet was a cupid that has kept us together for 29 happyyears.

Sincerely yours

This letter has inspired us to create our new “Angel’s Wings” collection. It has been afresh reminder to the genuine value of jewellery: To bring joy and offer protection.Experience the complete collection at www.wellendorff.com, Tel. (+49) 7231 – 28 40 128.

HONG KONGIFC

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Tel. +1 – 415 860 4010

Heidi Thomas

The feeling of being protected...

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MIC

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AN

SON

MARCH

WELCOME ABOARD

CEO LETTER A word from Jeff Smisek

VOICES A message to fl yers

CONNECTIONS What’s new at United

10

12

13

72THE BUTTERFLY

EFFECTHigh in the Sierra Madre mountains

of Mexico, man and insect become allies

in survival

76SPRING FASHION

Famed for its energy and excitement,

Las Vegas provides a fi tting backdrop for

the season’s best bets

68THE HEMI Q&A

Hollywood icon Matt Damon digs into one of his biggest roles

yet: global advocate for clean water

86 THREE PERFECT DAYS: KELOWNADiscovering a year-round playground in Canada’s Okanagan Valley

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • MARCH 2013 5

YOUR COMPLIMENTARY

COPY

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MARCHENTERTAINMENT

AND INFORMATION

Movies, Television and Audio Programming

Crossword and Sudoku

Route Maps, Customs &

Immigration, Our Fleet, Terminal Diagrams, Safety & Travel

Assistance, MileagePlus and Alliances & Partnerships

Food & Beverages

DISPATCHESGLOBETROTTING

News and notes from around the world

ROAD TRIPOn the trail of an American

blues legend in the Lexus GS 350 F Sport

STAYFrom Israel to Antigua, the

month’s hottest hotels

FOOD & DRINKCalifornia winemakers

buck tradition, lighten up

CULTURETHE MONTH AHEAD

What to read, watch and listen to in March

GOODS

Step up your style with fresh new footwear

THE FANWith smaller crowds and more creative programs,

a golf oasis blooms in the Arizona desert

BRIGHT IDEASHOW IT’S DONE

Helping Rome’s Colosseum bear up under the weight

of history

INDUSTRYDriverless cars get

the green light

TECHScientists experiment

with crowdsourcing their discoveries

15

23

27

31

37

45

51

57

59

63

SUBSCRIBE TO HEMISPHERESFor a free subscription to our monthly eMag and to access

recent issues, go to HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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APP FROM ITUNES

WRITE TO US: [email protected] 68 Jay St., Ste. 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201!

ABOUT THE COVER: A skier glides amid the “snow ghosts”—powder-coated trees—at Big White Ski Resort in Kelowna, British Columbia, photographed by Michael Hanson

105

114 119

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6 MARCH 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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No.34694_Raymond_Weil 1pp.indd 1No.34694_Raymond_Weil 1pp.indd 1 07/01/2013 10:0007/01/2013 10:00

EDITOR IN CHIEF Joe KeohaneEXECUTIVE EDITOR Chris WrightMANAGING EDITOR Jennifer L. JohnsonSENIOR EDITOR Jacqueline Detwiler FASHION EDITOR Nino BautiEDITOR AT LARGE Sam Polcer

ART DIRECTOR Christine Bower-Wright ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Jeff QuinnPHOTO EDITOR Julien Tomasello

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jay Cheshes, Alyssa Giacobbe, Mike Guy, Michael Kaplan, Jon Marcus, Adam K. Raymond, Cristina Rouvalis, Grant StoddardCONTRIBUTING ARTISTSChristine Berrie, Peter James Field, Alex Nabaum, Peter Oumanski, James Provost, Steve Stankiewicz

EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR Michael KeatingU.S. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Orion Ray-Jones

Ink, 68 Jay St., Ste. 315,Brooklyn, NY 11201Tel: +1 347-294-1220 Fax: +1 917-591-6247editorial@hemispheresmagazine.comhemispheresmagazine.com

WEBMASTER Salah Lababidi

ADVERTISINGU.S. GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Stephen AndrewsVP, STRATEGY AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Andrea AlexanderDIRECTOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS Greg CaccavaleNATIONAL ACCOUNT MANAGERS Andrea Chase-Ward, Scott Stone, Anna Szpunar, Banu YilmazU.S. TERRITORY MANAGERS Greg Hankinson, Jack Miller, Jeff Miller, Lonnie Milligan, Lisa Nelson, Ryan Sadorf, Ketan Solanki, Michael VicarHAWAII Robert WiegandEUROPE Sarah OrmeASIA Jacqueline Ho LATIN/SOUTH AMERICADaniela CaterianoMEXICO Alejandro SalasBRAZIL Olivier Capoulade

PRODUCTION MANAGER Joe MasseyTel: +1 678-553-8091PRODUCTION CONTROLLERS Josette Berksteiner, Stacy Willis

MARKETING MANAGER Nikkole Wyrick

Ink (sales), Capital Building, 255 E. Paces Ferry Rd., Ste. 400, Atlanta, GA 30305Tel: +1 888-864-1733 Fax: +1 917-591-6247

InkCEO Jeff rey O’RourkeCOO Hugh GodsalPUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon LeslieHEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in Hemispheres are not necessarily those of the Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Neither United, its subsidiaries nor affi liates guarantees the accuracy, completeness or timeliness of, or otherwise endorses these facts, views, opinions or recommendations, gives investment advice, or advocates the purchase or sale of any security or investment. You should always seek the assistance of a professional for tax and investment advice. Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by United Airlines.

YOU MAY NOW USE YOUR ELECTRONIC DEVICES!Download Hemispheres’ free iPad app and get every issue, plus special bonus features like additional photos, stories and video.

PHIL PRIMACK is a Boston-area writer and editor whose work has appeared in such publications as the New York Times and the Boston Globe. After witnessing the amazing migration of monarch butterfl ies to Mexico (“The Butterfl y Eff ect,” page 72), he now feels very guilty about his boyhood hobby of collecting butterfl ies to preserve under glass.

@HEMISPHERESMAGOUR JANUARY FEATURE on Forrest Fenn, the former art dealer who hid a $3 million treasure near Santa Fe and then dropped some clues in his memoir, drew a lot of comments. Among them was this, from Irene Rawlings of Denver: “It makes me want to buy a pickax, rent a mule and go out on a treasure hunt. Such a happy and optimistic way to start the new year!” Barbara Rogers of New Hampshire concurred: “What a beautiful story! It captures the sense that the real treasure is not the contents of the chest, but how it has fi red people’s imaginations.” Meanwhile, John Penuel of France enjoyed our piece on a Nobelist’s wife hobnobbing at Boston’s Symphony Hall. “I read this piece on a fl ight yesterday. It made me laugh out loud,” he wrote. “I actually took the magazine with me. First time I’ve ever done that.”

So now let’s hear from you. Follow us on Twi� er at @hemispheresmag, friend us on Facebook, download our free iPad app from the iTunes Store, or simply email us at [email protected]. —The Editors

CONTRIBUTORS

OLIVIA GUNNING BENNANI is a journalist who left London for Morocco more than a decade ago, intending to stay six months—she’s been there ever since. Her fascination with all things North African has led her from desert sands to mountain peaks and, for this issue, into the purple fi elds of one of Morocco’s most precious commodities (“Crocus Act,” page 20).

JOE MORSE is a Toronto illustrator whose client list ranges from Esquire and GQ to Nike and Target. He says he was thrilled to add Matt Damon (The Hemi Q&A, page 68) to his gallery of portraits, because “my best paintings happen when the subject is doing something meaningful, and Damon’s advocacy for safe water is critical for the world’s poor.”

GOLD RUSH Forrest Fenn’s treasure chest


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9:21 p.m. Networking at a rooftop nightclub in Downtown, one of Orlando’s dining and entertainment districts. From dancing at a high-energy nightclub to indulging in global or regional cuisine, Orlando makes business meetings productive and exciting. Find out how business events are just the beginning at OrlandoDistricts.com.

After the recap.Before the nightcap.

RESTAURANT ROWPrime Dining Destination

WINTER PARKSouthern Chic

DOWNTOWNVibrant Nightlife

UNIVERSAL /CITYWALKAdventurous & Energetic

CONVENTION AREAEntertaining Options

DISNEY/LAKE BUENA VISTASignature Excitement

No.35299_Visit_Orlando 1pp.indd 1No.35299_Visit_Orlando 1pp.indd 1 05/02/2013 16:3505/02/2013 16:35

W elcome aboard, and thanks for choosing United for your fl ight today.

We invest a lot in our business and in our customers. We have both external cus-tomers (you) and internal customers (our co-workers). It’s important that we invest in both. If we take care of our co-workers, they will take care of you.

So we are making a number of invest-ments in our co-workers, including new customer service training for 100 percent of our fl ight a� endants and agents world-wide—over 44,000 people. When we fi nish the training this year, everyone will be on the same page about what great service means and what we expect our co-workers to deliver for you. We are also upgrading the passenger service system interface at our gates, in our lobbies and at our contact centers, to give our co-workers fast, easy-to-use tools to do their jobs.

In January, we opened a new co-worker

health clinic at O’Hare. It’s the fifth co-worker health clinic at United, and any co-worker can use our clinics completely free of charge. All our clinics, operated by Walgreens Well Network, off er conve-nient on-site health services to keep our co-workers feeling and performing well.

We recently opened the first set of newly refurbished co-worker break rooms at our Washington-Dulles hub, featuring a comfortable new design, and new furni-ture and appliances for our co-workers to use during their breaks. Break rooms are things you will likely never see, but they are very important to our co-workers, who use them to relax, eat a meal, read their e-mail, catch up on the news and socialize with their fellow co-workers. In 2013 we will renovate break rooms at our Chicago and San Francisco hubs as well, and at some of our stations that are undergoing terminal moves. We will also complete at least one break room at each of our other

hubs to give our co-workers a chance to see the new design and features coming their way. This is all part of a multiyear project to renovate the 500 or so break rooms we have around the globe.

The investments we’re making in our co-workers show we value our co-workers, want them to have the tools they need to do their job, and want them to be proud to come to work at United every day. That will result in be� er customer service for you.

Thanks again for fl ying with us today. We appreciate your business and hope to see you onboard again soon.

Investing in Our PeopleCEO LETTER

CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD, PRESIDENT AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, UNITED AIRLINES


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© 2013 United Air Lines, Inc. All rights reserved.

Includes destinations served by United Air Lines, Inc.,and United Express.

Carve out some time on your calendar. With the most comprehensive route network,you’ll run out of days before we run out of places to take you. For more information,go to united.com.

More than 370 destinationsworldwide.

A destination forevery day of the year.And then some.

No.00000 A Destination For Every Day 1pp.indd 1No.00000 A Destination For Every Day 1pp.indd 1 06/02/2013 09:5906/02/2013 09:59

A ll travelers have heard the familiar phrase “Sit back, relax and enjoy the fl ight,” spoken just a� er their

fl ight takes to the air. But for flight a� en-dant Jane Douce� e, it isn’t a cliché—it’s a personal reminder of a great responsibil-ity, and a call to action. She comes to work every day with a positive a� itude and a determination to make sure that every customer whose comfort and safety have been entrusted to her and her fellow crew members really does “enjoy the fl ight.”

Doucette’s positive attitude recently paid off—literally—when she walked away with $50,000 for being named the fi rst grand prize winner in United’s Out-perform Recognition Program. Through the Outperform program, MileagePlus members may nominate an employee for excellent service on their flight, on the phone, at the airport or at any point in their experience with United.

Doucette grew up in the Philip-pines in what she describes as a “very

hospitality-driven” culture. “My parents owned a restaurant, and for years I grew up watching my mother as she interacted with customers and made them feel at home,” she recalls. “That instilled in me the love of being around people and a desire to make sure everyone feels welcome and has a good time.”

Naturally, due to her love of people and welcoming nature, Doucette was encouraged to pursue a career as a fl ight a� endant. But she wasn’t sure if the life-style—with its frequent travel and time away from home—was for her. “Friends used to say that being a fl ight a� endant would suit me, but I didn’t know if I could get used to all the travel,” she says. “I moved to the U.S. to go to college and pursued various careers, but something seemed to be missing. One day I thought, ‘OK, maybe I should give this fl ight a� endant thing a try.’ And I’ve never looked back.”

The airline industry o� en a� racts peo-ple who like the idea of having breakfast

on one side of the Atlantic and dinner on the other, but travel isn’t Douce� e’s high-est priority. “I enjoy making people happy,” she says. “And I get the opportunity to do that all day long. I couldn’t ask for a more fulfi lling or fun way to spend my time. If you start the day with the right a� itude, it’s tough to have a bad day.”

Doucette has spent 18 years in this customer-facing job—a length of time in which one would assume any fl ight a� en-dant, no ma� er how friendly, would have come across a bad fl ight or two.

“I get that question a lot, since I have nothing but great things to say about my job and my customers,” Douce� e says. “In an ideal world, I would deny ever having a bad fl ight, but that’s a li� le unrealistic a� er so many years of fl ying. Sure, I’ve run into the occasional traveler who is impos-sible to please, but that’s pre� y rare.

“Most of the time, even if I can’t solve their issue, people appreciate that I care and I tried my best to help.”

A Winning A� itude Delivering excellent customer service is a way of life for fl ight a� endant Jane Douce� e

BY ERIN BENSON

FLIGHT CHECK Jane Doucette with

Jonipher Kwong, the MileagePlus member who nominated her in United’s Outperform Recognition Program


VOICES

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CONNECTIONS

ASK THE PILOTWith Captain Mike Bowers

Q: On occasion I have been on airplanes that, after pushing back from the gate at my home air-port of Newark, moved ahead of others already waiting in line to take off . What circumstances would cause a plane to jump the line?

A: Normally, takeoff order is as simple as fi rst come, fi rst served. But at busier airports like Newark (EWR), where air traffi c controllers blend departures with those from LaGuardia and JFK, there may be “openings” on some departure routes and delays on others. To manage that, EWR controllers may instruct an aircraft to bypass the one that’s fi rst in line to take off . In addition, air traffi c controllers may “meter” aircraft at certain times to reduce the waiting that might result from weather or traffi c delays. Although it might seem confusing at times, it is well orches-trated and done to get as many departures off a given runway at any one time, safely.

Do you have a question for Captain Bowers? You can write to him at [email protected].

IF YOU ARE SITTING on an aircra� off ering United Economy Plus, you (or the person si� ing next to you) may be part of the rea-son that extra-legroom seating even exists. Customer feedback from post-travel surveys showed that those in Economy Plus were more satisfi ed with their fl ights.

“Our frequent fl yers are very passionate about fl ying, and they typically have a lot to say about it,” says Customer Insights Senior Manager Ma� Hadfi eld, who spends a good part of his day poring over the surveys.

Shortly after a MileagePlus member travels on a direct fl ight, United sends him or her an email invitation to off er feedback. More than 8,000 customers each day rank their experience with the airline on a scale

of 1 to 10. In a text box that allows for open commenting, customers provide a wide range of feedback. United uses sophisticated text-recognition so� ware to read that feed-back—and act on it.

Such commentary infl uences every part of the customer experience, as United uses travelers’ feedback to continue to tweak its service. Hence the installation of more premium-cabin fl at-bed seats than any other U.S. carrier, and the addition of satellite Wi-Fi on some 300 airplanes this year.

And feedback has also played a role in the airline’s off ering of two other customer favorites: tapas snack boxes and the Thai-style chicken wrap. If you like them, surveys show that you’re not alone.

Measuring Up

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KAUAI: Poipu Shopping Village Grand Hyatt Kauai BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII: Kona Marketplace Kings’ Shops Hilton Waikoloa Village

Woodfield Mall DALLAS: NorthPark CenterDENVER: Cherry Creek Shopping Center LOS ANGELES: Glendale Galleria NEW YORK: Roosevelt Field

ORLANDO: The Mall at Millenia PHILADELPHIA: The Plaza at King of Prussia PLEASANTON: Stoneridge MallPORTLAND: Washington Square SAN DIEGO: Fashion V Valley Fair

SEATTLE: Bellevue Square WASHINGTON, D.C.: Tysons Corner Center

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • MARCH 2013 • ILLUSTRATION BY SECTION DESIGN 15

DISPATCHESDESTINATIONS ADVENTURES FOOD & DRINK

CALL SIGNSThis month in 1876, at his lab in Boston, Alexander Graham Bell made the world’s fi rst telephone call,

to assistant Thomas Watson. In the decades that followed, the U.S. has seen the rise and fall of pay phones,

the laying and abandonment of landlines, and most recently the marked and perhaps terminal decline

of the phone call itself. (Not to worry: We’ll have perfected telepathy in the next century anyhow.)

18891876 1960 1973 1984

20102011 2007 2001 1998

2012

Number of U.S. pay phones

reaches 1 million

Motorola exec Martin Cooper makes world’s

first cellphone call

First public pay phone installed

at a bank in Hartford, Conn.

Number of U.S. cellphone users

reaches 290 million+

Cellphone-only residences account for more than 25% of U.S. households

Less than 13% of U.S. households are landline-only

One in five U.S. smartphone owners access Twitter on their devices; the number of people

accessing Facebook on their mobile phones monthly reaches 543 million worldwide (a 67%

increase over the previous year)

Americans spend an average of 826 minutes

a month making cellphone calls

Number of U.S. pay phones drops to

about 425,000

Smartphones overtake basic cellphones for the first time,

accounting for more than 55% of all handsets sold in the U.S.

Americans spend an average of 681 minutes

a month making cellphone calls

Half of U.S. adults own smartphones;

smartphones account for 80% of all

devices sold by Verizon Wireless

and AT&T

A survey reveals that smartphone users spend an average of

25 minutes a day browsing the Internet, more than twice the

amount of time they spend making telephone calls. Also beating out talk time: social

networking, playing games and listening to music.

Alexander Graham Bellmakes world’s first phone call Number of U.S.

cellphone users is about 92,000

$

Number of U.S. pay phones peaks at

about 2.6 million

$

$

97% of U.S. households have a landline phone

$

ALEXANDER GRAHAM BELL

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GLOBETROTTING

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • MARCH 2013 • ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER OUMANSKI 17

“THERE’S A LOT of give on that brown,” says Rob Jennings. “You’ll want to aim at the area around the broomstick.” The terminology might sound a little odd, but then the Al Ghazal Golf Club is an odd place.

One of the world’s few sand golf courses, this Abu Dhabi institution has its origins in the early 1960s, during the onset of the United Arab Emirates oil boom. In recent years, Al Ghazal has been overshadowed by the plush grass courses that have sprung up around the country, and there are rumors that it will close this year to make way for a new property development.

There was little danger of falling victim to urban sprawl 50 years ago, when a handful of expat golfi ng

ABU DHABI

BUNKER MENTALITYThe joys of playing golf in a course-size sand trap

BY RICHARD WHITEHEAD

enthusiasts fi rst carved 18 holes out of the desert sand here. “The place was empty,” says club manager Angela Scurr. “It was the people who put it all together. They were the pioneers.”

In the early days, club members would bring their own strips of Astroturf to use as portable fairways. Over time, though, these were abandoned as the golfers—like the desert lark and the sand boa before them—adapted to the conditions. In place of greens, for instance, they created “browns”: sand mixed with oil and tamped down. After every putt, players must walk off single fi le, the last man dragging a broom behind him to smooth the surface.

Al Ghazal also has a host of unusual hazards, many of which are unique to the course. Among these are dhub burrows, named for the large, spiny-tailed desert lizards that call them home; if your ball trickles down one of the burrows, it’s best to take a drop. Then there’s the fact that the front nine holes surround an archaeological site, which contains scattered pottery shards and stone tools alongside stray golf balls.

Asked whether Al Ghazal itself will soon become a historical footnote, Scurr says absolutely not—though she allows that certain people have “plans” for the land it occupies. For Jennings, a Jamaican national who’s been a member of the club for eight years and who is considered by some to be its best player, the only concern right now is the tricky putt facing him on the fi nal hole.

Jennings sinks it and does a little fi st pump, then reaches for a broomstick, with which he brushes away the footprints he’s left behind.

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In the lead-up to this year’s Screen Actors Guild Awards show, the red carpet at the Shrine Auditorium is a mob scene of famous folks decked out in designer fi nery. One attendee in particular stands out, possibly because she’s the only one whose ensemble is spattered with sauce.

Suzanne Goin, a James Beard Award–winning chef and co-owner of L.A. celeb-magnet Lucques, is on her fourth stint as caterer for the SAG Awards—and she knows how to work a red carpet. “I always

make the food look good for a big, wide-angle shot,” she says, holding a platter and moving through the surging crowd with remarkable ease.

Goin and her crew have already had a busy day. They spent the morning preparing 1,200 plates of beef, beets and slow-roasted salmon in a Beverly Hills kitchen, then trucked it all over to an enclosure in the Shrine parking lot for plating. Now the food is being delivered to the tables before guests are seated, to be eaten during the show.

“We make a huge eff ort to keep the whole

thing from looking sloppy,” Goin says. “You want

three things on that one plate, barely touching, to make it not

look like a kid’s meal.”Equally important: No scraps

of food must sully a celebrity’s Valentino or, worse, get wedged between an award recipient’s teeth. “We did a lot of no-parsley,” Goin says of this year’s menu. “We did a beef tenderloin, thinly sliced, so it

can be eaten with just a fork.”For all the pressure she faces

during these events, Goin fi nds that they do have a signifi cant upside. “Sometimes,” she says, “we get to eat what we serve.” —MICHAEL KAPLAN

MILAN • A young man is standing between a bull’s hind legs—or, specifi cally, the legs of a bull mosaic on the fl oor of the Galle-ria Vi� orio Emanuele II, a chic shopping arcade in this Italian city. “It’s tradition that if you spin around three times you will have good luck,” explains his female companion. The man’s spinning, though,

keeps ge� ing interrupted by the crowd making its way into a nearby café, which has ornate moldings, arched windows and a golden “M.”

Milan’s McDonald’s might be the world’s most stylish fast-food joint—which still isn’t stylish enough for this city, apparently. The eatery is bowing out

to make way for a Prada store, and the people jostling to get inside are here for the closing-down burgers being handed out. The guy standing on the mosaic, hampered by the crowd, does not get to complete his good-luck twirl. He also fails to get a free Big Mac. The myth of the bull, it appears, is true. —JAMES WILLIAMS

STAR GRAZINGTHE SECRET TO A SUCCESSFUL AWARDS-SHOW MEAL? HOLD THE PARSLEY

FALLEN ARCHES THE DEMISE OF THE WORLD’S MOST GLAMOROUS BURGER JOINT

LOS ANGELES

STRANGE REQUESTSAn electro-pop band puts on an unorthodox show for hotel guests

Jason Huber and Jordan Kelley have

developed a habit of singing in unlikely

places. The Nashville-

based electro-pop duo

known as Cherub has

performed on a Ferris

wheel, in hot tubs

and at a hair salon

in Guadalajara.

Accordingly, the

musicians seem

at ease with

their latest gig: a

two-day residency

at the W in

Times Square, during which they’ll be

the hotel’s Human Jukebox.

Wearing neon-laced high-tops and

draped with gold chains, Huber and

Kelley take requests via Twi� er—guests

tweet their location in the hotel and the

song they want played—then show up

and start warbling. Tunes performed

include covers of songs by

Frankie Valli, Cyndi Lauper and

Outkast, as well as Cherub

originals. When asked

what they do when not

performing weird gigs, the

24-year-old Huber responds,

“Whiskey, champagne and

shenanigans.” Kelley, 25,

solemnly agrees.

Over the course of an

evening, there’s hardly

a single spot in the

hotel that the Human Jukebox isn’t

summoned to. There are performances

in the fi tness center and the lobby, and

even atop a luggage cart that ends up

being rolled out the front door and

through Times Square. The two musi-

cians remain unfazed—although Huber

admits that he fi nds being asked to

perform in the elevator “a li� le creepy.”

The following morning, the Human

Jukebox transforms into the Human

Alarm Clock, ready to deploy to guests’

rooms to belt out wake-up songs in

bathrobes, slippers and argyle socks.

Just before the fi rst call of the day, the

duo admit they didn’t get much sleep

the night before. “Dear Body,” Kelley

sings, closing his eyes and trembling

with feigned emotion. “Sorry for last

night. I know what I did just wasn’t

right.” —JAMES STURZ

NEW YORK CITY


DISPATCHES || GLOBETROTTING

k good gle

gh with

ew have day.rningates ofw-roastedy Hills

ked it allre in the foroodto thets aten

eth

sloppy,three thin

barely touclook likke a k

Equally imof food mustValentino or,between an “We did a losays of this ybeef tenderlo

can be eateFor all t

during ththat theyupside. ““we get —MICHAE

p017-020_HEM0313_Globetrotting.indd 18p017-020_HEM0313_Globetrotting.indd 18 31/01/2013 09:3431/01/2013 09:34

No.35563_Chase_Card_Services 1pp.indd 1No.35563_Chase_Card_Services 1pp.indd 1 04/02/2013 14:3404/02/2013 14:34

THE BIG BONK FROM A DINGED CHEVY TO UNLUCKY REINDEER, A LOOK AT THE IMPACT OF SPACE ROCKS

At the time of this writing, an asteroid 150 feet across was hurtling toward our planet, E.T.A. Feb. 15. Hopefully, it didn’t hit us. But there have been many instances of space objects that did collide with Earth, most notably the asteroid blamed for wiping out the dinosaurs 65 million years ago, as well as

the 1972 meteorite that had a similar eff ect on a Venezuelan cow. And while we may have the deepest sympathy for the Milanese monk reputedly dispatched by a space rock in 1650, we can also take comfort in the fact that human casualties have been exceedingly rare. —CHRIS WRIGHT

AMOUNT OF INNOCUOUS SPACE DUST, IN TONS, THAT

CLATTERS INTO EARTH DAILY

100–300

AMOUNT SHE SOLD THE CAR FOR,

POST-METEORITE

$10,000AMOUNT THE OWNER

OF THAT 1980 CHEVY MALIBU HAD

PAID FOR THE CAR

$400

AMOUNT PAID AT AUCTION FOR A PIECE OF THE METEORITE

THAT HIT A CAR IN NEW YORK STATE IN 1992

$16,250

ESTIMATED NUMBER OF METEORITES THAT FALL

TO EARTH ANNUALLY

500

ESTIMATED NUMBER OF TREES FLATTENED BY A

METEOR IMPACT IN 1908 IN TUNGUSKA, SIBERIA

80 MILLION

DIAMETER, IN INCHES, OF A METEORITE THAT HIT A

SLEEPING ALABAMA WOMAN IN 1954, BRUISING HER HIP

7

ESTIMATED NUMBER OF REINDEER FATALLY

INJURED IN THE TUNGUSKA EVENT

1,000

REPORTED INCIDENTS OF SPACE ROCKS HITTING COWS, INCLUDING ONE CONFIRMED

FATALITY IN VENEZUELA

2AMOUNT PAID AT

AUCTION FOR A PIECE OF THE VENEZUELAN COW-

KILLING METEORITE

$1,375

AMOUNT PAID AT


Khadouj, who believes she is at least 70 years old, can still touch her toes. Right now she’s bent double, elbow-deep in a spray of purple crocuses. Showing half a mouthful of teeth in a sun-scorched, plumpish face with impressive furrows, Khadouj is smiling. She’s happy because the annual saff ron harvest has begun, providing much-needed employ-ment for residents of Tnine de l’Ourika, a crumbling Berber village in one of the valleys of Morocco’s Atlas Mountains.

During the three-week harvest, dozens of women from the com-munity will reap 800,000 crocuses,

extracting about 6 kilograms of the precious strands of saff ron, a spice that can fetch up to $12 per gram. Khadouj and her work-mates each earn about $4 per day.

Picking begins at daybreak, when the petals are still closed; inside are the fi lament-like structures called stigmas that, when dried, are known as saff ron. “By 9 a.m. it’s over,” explains farm manager Moham-med Mador, as he ambles through gardens bursting with aromatic plants beneath olive and citrus trees. “Once the fl ower opens, the stigmas will be damaged by the sun.”

The heaps of fl owers are then taken aside

and, one by one, the stigmas are extracted, a task seen as women’s

work—ostensibly because their hands are daintier.

“It takes 40 women to harvest one hectare of fl owers and extract the three fi laments from each fl ower,” Mador says.

Back in the crocus patch, Khadouj is upright, holding her back; when asked if it aches, she shrugs. Her rugged hands refl ect a lifetime of dough-kneading and clothes-scrubbing. Soon Khadouj is bent over again, as she and the others get on with the job in a gust of chatter and song. —OLIVIA GUNNING BENNANI

MOROCCO

DISPATCHES || GLOBETROTTING

CROCUS ACTHARVESTING SAFFRON DEEP IN THE ATLAS MOUNTAINS

R2_p017-020_HEM0313_Globetrotting.indd 20R2_p017-020_HEM0313_Globetrotting.indd 20 08/02/2013 16:2408/02/2013 16:24

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No.35435_Trunk_Club 1pp.indd 1No.35435_Trunk_Club 1pp.indd 1 07/02/2013 08:4807/02/2013 08:48


ROAD TRIP

CHASING THE BLUES

It’s 8 in the morning on a Friday in New Orleans, and I’m in a bind. In my hand is a sloppy breakfast po’boy quickly greasing up a paper bag. At the curb is a brand-new platinum-colored 2013 Lexus GS 350 F Sport with eminently stainable

light-gray leather upholstery. These two things do not go together. So, before hit-ting the road, I hunt down a newspaper and spread it all over the passenger seat, then across my own lap. Po’boys can be highly unpredictable.

Taking a devilish Lexus GS 350 into the heart of the Delta

BY MICHAEL KAPLAN

MISSISSIPPI

p023-025_HEM0313_RoadTrip.indd 23p023-025_HEM0313_RoadTrip.indd 23 31/01/2013 09:3631/01/2013 09:36

Being awake this early in the Crescent City is an objectionable state of aff airs, but I’ve got a long drive ahead of me, six hours north to Clarksdale, Miss., the town with the crossroads where blues legend Robert Johnson supposedly sold his soul to the devil in exchange for being able to play guitar like a man possessed.

I wouldn’t quite call it a hellhound, but there is something faintly devilish about the look of my car for the weekend, particularly around the front end—no surprise the styling was inspired by Lexus’ LFA supercar. A sleekly designed four-door sedan, the GS 350 F Sport is roomy enough for a family and aggres-sive enough to tear up miles of blacktop. Taking advantage of its link-in with the music streaming service Pandora, I play Delta blues all the way to Mississippi.

Three hours into my trip, I notice a sign for Vicksburg. Something about it rings a bell. I pull over and use the car’s Enform computer system to do a Bing search. Sure enough, the town has been name-checked in songs by Bob Dylan, Johnny Cash, Tom Waits and Lucinda Williams. Vicksburg it is.

I cruise through the pleasant town, with its Civil War battlefield and rows of beautiful old antebellum homes, and happen upon a seafood and chop house called Rusty’s Riverfront Grill. It’s friendly

and unpretentious, with home-baked pies cooling up front. I order a gargantuan fried shrimp sandwich that I swear to the waitress I won’t be able to fi nish, but do so anyway. “Good luck,” she says, as I waddle out a� erward.

In no time I’m again motoring up High-way 61, a road lined with verdant fields punctuated with beaten-down shacks and heaps of disused farm equipment.

Grain silos slide in and out of view. Zip-ping past a picturesque li� le post offi ce with a single mailbox in front, I suddenly remember a postcard that needs to be sent. Oversize brakes and the Lexus Dynamic Handling System, which calculates opti-mal wheel angles, help me execute a fl ashy 180-degree turn that would have done Jason Bourne proud.

When I reach the turnoff for Indianola, a town that teemed with blues perform-ers back in the early 1900s, I take it and follow the car’s GPS guidance to the B.B. King Museum. There, I take in multi-media presentations on what life was like on the Chitlin’ Circuit, check out a re-creation of King’s recording studio, and peruse the blues maestro’s guitars and stage costumes. It’s a fi � ing tribute to a man born into a co� on-picking family who rose to unimaginable heights.

As daylight wanes, I steer the Lexus into the parking lot of Clarksdale’s Shack Up Inn, an intentionally rustic, blues-themed hotel where you can overnight in an origi-nal sharecropper’s shack or a repurposed co� on gin. My room is cozy and comfort-able, but I’ve got places to be.

I drop off my bag and get back into the car, flipping on the near-infrared

DELTA FORCE The Ground Zero Blues Club in Clarksdale, a town deeply rooted in the history of the Mississippi blues

A L A B AMA

LOU I S I ANA

A RKANS A S

NEW ORLEANS

RUSTY’S RIVERFRONT GRILL

B.B. KING MUSEUM

SHACK UP INNRED’S LOUNGE

M I S S I S S I P P I

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RUSTY’S RIVERFRONT

B.B. KING MUSEUM

SHACK UP INNRED’S LOUNGE SSS

GROUND ZERO BLUES CLUB

24

DISPATCHES || ROAD TRIP

MA

P BY

JEFF

QU

INN

N . STATE ST. & DESOTO AVE.

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

OROROROROROROOROROROROROROROROROROROORORORORORORORORROROROROROOROROROROORORORORORORORORORORORRRROROROORORORORROROROROROROORROROROROROORORORROROORORORROROOROORORORORORRORORORORRROOROORRORRRROOOROROOROROORRRRRRORRRRRRROORRRRRRRROOOOORRROOORRRROOOOORRRRORRRRRO

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IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII S SSS SS SS SS SSS SS SSSS SS SS SS SS SSS SS SS SS SS SS SS SS SSS SSS SS SS SS SS SSS SS SS SS SS SS SS SS SSS SSS SS SSSS SS SSSSSSS SSS SS SS SS SSSS SS SSS SSS SSSS SSSSSSS SSS SSSS SSS SS SSS SS SSS I SI SI SSI SI SI SII SI SI SSI SI SI SI SI SI SI SI SI SI SI SSI SI SI SI SSI SI SSSI SII SSI SI SI SIII SSI SSI SI SI SI SSI SI SI SSI SI SI SI SI SSSSSSSSI SSI SSI SII S S IS IIS IS IS ISS IS IS IS ISS IS IS IS IS IS IS ISS IS IS IS IS IS IS IS IS IS IS IS IS ISS ISSS IS IS IS IIS ISSS IS IISS IS ISSSSSSSSSS ISS ISSS IS ISSSSSS IS ISSSSSSSSS IS IISSSSS PP PP PP PPP PP PP PP PP PP PP PP PP PP PP PP PPP PP PP PP PP PP PP PP PP PP PP PP PP PP PP PP PP PPP PP PP PP PP PPPP PP PP PP PPPP PPPPPP PP PP PPPPP PP PPPP PP PP PPP PP PPP PP PPP PP PP PP PPPP PPP PP PP PP PP PPPPP PP PP PPPPP PPPPPPPP

61

START

CLARKSDALE

INDIANOLA

VICKSBURG

R1_p023-025_HEM0313_RoadTrip.indd 24R1_p023-025_HEM0313_RoadTrip.indd 24 11/02/2013 09:5311/02/2013 09:53

WORLD CLASSITALIAN & JAPANESE

DINING IN THE HEART OF CHICAGO


LEXUS GS 350 F SPORTTHE BELLS AND WHISTLES

“night view” lights to illuminate a bit of pitch-black road. I make the short drive to Ground Zero, a blues club bankrolled by Morgan Freeman. Inside, a righteous-sounding blues combo rips it up onstage. They’re good and the vibe is fi ne; frankly, though, I’m looking for something a bit more down-home.

I ask around, and eventually wind up at a joint called Red’s Lounge. It’s stripped down, cramped and hot. Folks sit on metal folding chairs, and a hat gets passed around for donations. Onstage, bathed in red and yellow light, is Robert “Bilbo” Walker. With a de� touch on his ba� ered guitar’s fretboard, he growls his way through standards like “Lucille” and

originals that center on the usual blues themes of love, murder and redemption. There’s barely a moment’s pause between numbers and Walker isn’t one for stage patter, but the people are deep into it nonetheless. The night goes on like this for some time.

Late the next morning, bleary-eyed and back on the road, I’m looking for the spot where Johnson reputedly made his fateful pact. Though I worried it might be hard to fi nd, apparently soul-selling isn’t the discreet business one might expect: Three giant guitars above a couple of small trees mark the site of the original crossroads. I park in the lot of Abe’s Bar-B-Q and walk to the landmark, waiting for something to overtake me, for a deal to be proff ered—but my soul remains intact. So I do what anyone in my position would do. I retreat to Abe’s for a plate of devilishly good ribs.

MICHAEL KAPLAN is a writer in Brooklyn whose work has appeared in Wired, Details and the New York Times.

ROAD TRIP || DISPATCHES

BOARDING PASS For music buff s longing to roam the land where blues was born, New Orleans is an ideal jumping-off point for cruising the Mississippi Delta—and United can get you there with nonstop service to the Big Easy from all eight of its U.S. hubs. To see schedules or book your fl ight, go to united.com.

PERKS: The Lexus Enform system has an app suite that allows you to make

restaurant reservations on the go, and 24-hour navigation assistance can be

summoned with a phone call. In case you happen to miss seeing an accident in the

making at the crossroads ahead, the car’s pre-collision system begins braking two

seconds before impact.

PERFORMANCE: Improved traction and handling come from Lexus’ All-Weather Drive, which monitors road conditions and allocates engine power—ranging from 50/50 to 30/70—between the car’s front and rear axles as needed.

ENGINE: Equipped with 306 horses generating 6,400 rpm, this supercar-inspired sedan gets 19 mpg in the city, 28 on the highway.

STARTING PRICE: $52,590

HEMMISPISPHERHE ESMAGAZINE.COM • MARCH 2013

seconds before impact. axles as needed.

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STAY

MAMILLA HOTELBACKSTORY: Opened in 2009,

this fi ve-star hotel

is at the heart of an

ambitious (if overdue)

scheme to redevelop

Mamilla, a 19th-century

neighborhood near

Jerusalem’s Old City

that was heavily dam-

aged during years of

Arab-Israeli fi ghting.

DESIGN NOTES: The challenge in a

city like Jerusalem is to

embrace history without

ge� ing bogged down in

it. The Mamilla expertly

manages this by marry-

ing the traditional (walls

of Jerusalem stone) with

modern design elements

(sleek black staircases,

glass-and-steel ceilings).

WHAT YOU’LL FIND JUST

OUTSIDE: The trendy

shopping area Mamilla

Avenue is seconds away.

Walk a bit farther and

you’ll reach the Jaff a

Gate and the Old City,

home to the Dome of the

Rock, the Western Wall

and a maze of ancient

alleys and bazaars.

IDEAL GUEST: The Mamilla is

unquestionably a stylish

place—you won’t fi nd

any fanny-pack types

milling about the lobby.

Even the most well-

dressed guests, however,

can’t resist nerding out

on the amazing history

that’s practically on the

hotel’s doorstep.

BEST PLACE TO HANG OUT:

It’d be tough to get a

be� er view of Jerusalem

than the one from the

Mamilla’s roof. Part of

the space is a sundeck;

the rest is a restaurant

and bar whose vistas are

especially impressive at

night, when the walls of

the Old City are lit up.

JERUSALEM

THIS MONTH’S HOTTEST HOTELS

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HERMITAGE BAYANTIGUA

BACKSTORY: A candidate for New Hamp-shire’s state symbol ever since the Old Man of the Mountain collapsed in 2003, this Spanish Renaissance hotel in the White Mountains has itself fl irted with ruin in its 111-year history. It was famously rescued from fi nancial downfall in 1944, when it was given the high-profi le honor of hosting the confer-ence that created the World Bank and the International Monetary Fund.

DESIGN NOTES: Resembling a cross between the White House and a hunting lodge, the vaguely Federal-style lobby is generously accented with yawning fi replaces and cozy alpine motifs.

AMAZING AMENITY: The 25,000-square-foot full-service spa allows guests to select herbs from the grounds for “farm-to-facial” treatments; the Mountain Mist product line used here is derived from candytu� , ne� le and other local fl ora.

HOT PLATE: While chops of all kinds are a claim to fame for steakhouse Stickneys, the nearby Omni Bre� on Arms Inn off ers a rib-eye to climb mountains for.

SIGNATURE COCKTAIL: The Cave, set in a former Prohibition-era speakeasy, mixes a high-octane Prohibition Punch, served in a dainty teacup and limited to one per customer.

Omni Mount Washington

Resort

DISPATCHES || STAY

WHAT YOU’LL FIND JUST OUTSIDE: The resort is surrounded by hundreds of acres of verdant, undeveloped land, ensuring unmarred natural beauty everywhere you look.

IDEAL GUEST: Those seeking privacy with their luxury will appreciate the fact that there are only 25 stand-alone suites and co� ages here. Guests who enjoy the hospitality of an unpretentious, familial-seeming staff will be even more delighted.

ROOM WITH A VIEW: Tucked into a hillside and boasting a private plunge pool, the spacious and well-appointed bungalow Suite 31 looks out on both bay and lagoon, giving you an unbeatable vantage from which to watch yachts sail into the marina at sunset.

HOT PLATE: The menu changes daily according to what’s most abundant in the on-site organic garden and what helps achieve the resort’s goal of zero food miles. This means that while you were daydreaming in your hillside villa, the cockles in tonight’s soup were being fi shed out of the lagoon below.

UNEXPECTED TREAT: Mojitos and cool, almond-scented towels are proff ered upon check-in, making quick work of any jet lag.

BRETTON WOODS, N.H.

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*Bose payment plan available on orders of $299-$1500 paid by major credit card. Separate fi nancing offers may be available for select products. See website for details. Down pay-ment is 1/12 the product price plus applicable tax and shipping charges, charged when your order is shipped. Th en, your credit card will be billed for 11 equal monthly installments beginning approximately one month from the date your order is shipped, with 0% APR and no interest charges from Bose. Credit card rules and interest may apply. U.S. residents only. Limit one active fi nancing program per customer. ©2013 Bose Corporation. Th e distinctive design of the headphone oval ring is a trademark of Bose Corporation. Financing and MileagePlus award miles offer not to be combined with other offers or applied to previous purchases, and subject to change without notice. Offer valid 1/1/13-3/31/13. Purchasers must use the phone number or website above to receive this offer. Risk-free refers to 30-day trial only, requires product purchase and does not include return shipping. Delivery is subject to product availability. Quote reprinted with permission. Award as voted by TripAdvisor travelers. **MileagePlus offer valid only on product advertised. Th e 1,200 miles for above Bose product advertised are awarded in place of the standard Bose offer. If a different product is purchased, the standard offer of 2 MileagePlus miles for every U.S. dollar spent will be honored. Miles accrued, awards, and benefi ts issued are subject to change and are subject to the rules of the United MileagePlus program. Please allow 6-8 weeks for miles to post to your account. United may change the MileagePlus program including, but not limited to, rules, regulations, travel awards and special offers or terminate the MileagePlus program at any time and without notice. Bonus award miles, award miles and any other miles earned through non-fl ight activity do not count or qualify for Premier® status unless expressly stated otherwise. United and its subsidiaries, affi liates and agents are not responsible for any products and services of other participating companies and partners. Taxes and fees related to award travel are the responsibility of the member. Th e accumulation of mileage or Premier status does not entitle members to any vested rights with respect to the program. United and MileagePlus are registered service marks. For complete details about the MileagePlus program, go to www.united.com.

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FOOD & DRINK

DRIVE DOWN THE BYWAYS of the Napa and Sonoma valleys at the right time of year, and you’ll pass vines heavy with glis-tening grapes just waiting to be turned into the big, tannic, high-alcohol wines—generally cabernets and zinfandels—that have made the region famous. These days, though, you’re also liable to spot a few vines that have been stripped of fruit early. These point up a new movement afoot in Northern California—a burgeoning faction of vintners interested in making more balanced vintages (read: less jammy, sun-ripened and strong).

One such producer is Jamie Kutch, a former Wall Street trader who launched Kutch Wines. Though now he’s a

purveyor of lighter, more finicky pinot noirs, Kutch’s early off erings were big and rich in the classic California style. There was only one problem, he says: “I didn’t like them.”

So when producing his 2007 releases, Kutch experimented by picking an acre of his grapes earlier. He also watered less, to push the grapes to develop flavor quickly without becoming too sugary. Satisfied with the results from his first acre, he picked everything earlier the next year and has been proceeding in that manner ever since.

A LITTLE BIT SOFTER

NOWNorthern California winemakers

tone down their approachBY MICHAEL KAPLAN

CALIFORNIA

SOMETIMES A GRAPE NOTION Inman Family Wines’ vineyard; inset, vintages from “balance”- minded winemakers

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GETTING FIZZY WITH ITSpicing up wine spritzers for classic-cocktail fans

Wine spritzers suff er from an image problem: Though delicious, they’re associated with a bit of a boring “day wedding” demographic. In other words, you’d never expect to see a rock star downing a wine spritzer onstage. In Napa Valley, though, where wine is para-mount, mixologist Vincent Lee of Yountville’s Lucy Restaurant & Bar thought to update the staple with grapefruit juice and a dash of sage liqueur, pushing the humble spritzer into spunky New York Sour territory.

YOUNTVILLE SPRITZ

Kutch and other advocates of balance have also been pushing back against what they argue is the overly intense oak fl avor that o� en turns up in California vintages. To reduce it, Kutch ages 30 percent of his early-picked grapes in new oak and the rest in barrels that are three to fi ve years old. He also ages the wines with grape stems to further so� en their taste profi les.

Asked to describe what he likes about his new, lighter, less oaky vintages, Kutch says they’re cleaner and more precise. They’re probably also easier to sell. Well-structured wines like these have been experiencing a renaissance among restaurateurs and wine buyers, who fi nd that they pair well with a vast array of foods rather than just the tra-ditional charbroiled slab of rib-eye. “I think of short ribs when I make my pinot noir,” says Kathleen Inman, whose Inman Family Wines shares Kutch’s philosophy. “But with the chardonnay, just for kicks I paired it with truffl e-bu� er popcorn—and that worked.”

“For me, wine enhances food. I’m not one for si� ing on the porch and sipping it,” says Chris Howell, who chose to plant the vines for Cain Vineyard and Winery on a mountaintop estate above Napa Valley to encourage more balance in his wines. “Good wine is not about power or complexity—it’s linked to the wine’s fi nish and character. The wines that seduce you are the ones that stick with you.”

› 1 oz. sage liqueur› 1 oz. grapefruit juice› 2 oz. Domaine

Carneros Brut Rosé› ½ oz. simple syrup› Club soda, to taste› Grapefruit slice

Combine liqueur, juice, wine and simple syrup and pour over ice. Top with soda and garnish with grapefruit slice.

DISPATCHES || FOOD & DRINK

SQUASH PROJamie Kutch, founder

of Kutch Wines

THE TIPPLING POINT At Napa

Valley’s Lucy Restaurant & Bar

BOARDING PASS If California wine country is calling you, United can get you there via its San Francisco hub, which features daily service from dozens of cities worldwide. In booking your fl ight, consider fl ying Economy Plus® and see what other travelers are talking about. You’ll savor more room to relax and recline, and you’ll be seated near the front of the cabin so you can exit the plane more swiftly at your destina-tion. To see detailed schedule information or to purchase tickets, go to united.com.



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DISPATCHES || FOOD & DRINK

GROWTH INDUSTRY

Winemakers diversify their portfolios—by planting vegetables

Napa Valley just 40 years ago was a vastly diff erent landscape from today. Acres of orchards, fi elds of produce and thousands of oak trees once competed for space with vineyards. However, following the region’s rise to fame on the heels of 1976’s Judgment of Paris—when some Napa wines bested their French counterparts in a

tasting—much of this diversity was wiped out in order to produce as many award-winning

wines as possible.But in the past 10 years, the tide has

begun to turn. Progressive winemakers have started diversify-ing their crops.

After having soil trouble, John

Williams, owner of Frog’s Leap, a winery in the Rutherford district, stopped using chemicals and irrigation, planted

acres of fruit and vegetables adjacent to the vines, and allowed cover crops to

THE BEST OF THE WESTAt an eatery with a Napa-only wine list, California is king

BY JOHN CAPONE

You’d think that placing a “Napa Valley only” limit on a restaurant wine list would consti-tute an unwelcome constraint in the eyes of sommeliers, but Kelli White and Sco� Brenner of Press in St. Helena, Calif., have accepted the challenge with enthusiasm. A� er moving to Napa from New York in 2010 to launch Press’ wine program, the two have assembled the largest collection of Napa bottles in wine country, with vintages going back to the 1940s.

“We both had tasted older California wine on the East Coast, but the quality out here, where the wines had moved less than a few miles in their existence, was so much be� er,” says White. Inspired, they set about snapping up cellar collections as they became available and urging wineries to part with older artifacts.

The mission led to some exciting discover-ies: fi ve decades of cabernet from the same winery, for instance, and a few bo� les of Cali-fornia grignolino (a tannic red rarely found outside Italy’s Piedmont region). “The project kept getting more and more compelling—brands we’d never heard of, bizarre varieties that were here before cabernet and chardon-nay mania wiped them all out,” White says.

Last year Press unveiled its new 10,000-bottle cellar, accessible via an iPad wine list, and with it the true scope of White and Brenner’s work. The collection represents the region in a way few restaurant wine lists can; enjoying it, with the help of the two curators, is like tasting a museum exhibit. And the hunt is far from over. “We’re still being surprised by the weird things we uncover,” White says.

SOIL SPORTJohn Williams,

owner of Frog’s Leap

CELLAR DWELLERS Press’ dauntingly extensive

stash of Napa wines

NORTHERN CALIFORNIA is justifi ably famous for its wines, but its temperate climate and rich soil are notable for producing another Mediterranean staple: olive oil. Like West Coast wines, these oils have unique characteristics. The best stuff tends to capture “the fresh fruit fl avor of the olive,” says Paul Vossen, a UC Coopera-tive Extension adviser. This may stem from the fact that California producers usually make their oil with stainless steel equipment instead of wood, which is favored in Greece, Spain and Italy.

Olive a SuddenMeet the newest addition to wine country’s top off erings


MARCH 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

proliferate. The vintners at Raymond Vineyards, Boisset Family Estates, Trefethen Family Vineyards and Cakebread Cellars were already mak-ing similar changes. And before long, all-purpose farm-wineries like Long Meadow Ranch—which raises cows and chickens in addition to growing olives, grapes and vegetables—began to pop up.

Best of all, much of the resulting produce has ended up in stores and on restaurant tables, a boon for a regional dining scene that’s long leaned toward locavorism. Frog’s Leap, for instance, takes produce from its three acres of gardens and sells it at the St. Helena Farmers’ Market. Cooked into a hearty meal, it’s perfect for pairing with—you guessed it—Napa Valley wines. —J.C.

IIF YOUR WINE COULD CHOOSE A GLASS

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The gold standard might well be found at McEvoy Ranch in Petaluma, stocked with gnarled olive trees imported from Tuscany and planted more than 20 years ago. The ranch grows six olive varieties, then blends them to make a single oil in a process very similar to the making of cuvée wine. In fact, at least one description, from foodie website Bite of the Best, sounds an awful lot like a wine tasting blurb, positing that McEvoy’s product expresses “aromas of parsley, cut grass and fresh basil as well as fl avors of artichoke.” —M.K.

SLIPPERY BUSINESS A sampling of McEvoy

Ranch’s lauded olive oils

p031-035_HEM0313_F&D.indd 35p031-035_HEM0313_F&D.indd 35 06/02/2013 10:3806/02/2013 10:38

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culture

All Things Bright and BeautifulChicago’s Field Museum shows visitors the light

If the ferocious success of the movie Avatar proved anything, it’s that you can never overestimate the allure of

glowing wildlife. In the non-CGI world, glow worms and fi refl ies have a similar appeal. The Field Museum

in Chicago taps into our love of self-illuminating cri� ers with “Creatures of Light: Nature’s Bioluminescence,”

an exhibit that showcases scorpions, mushrooms, dinofl agellates and more. It also features a re-creation

of New Zealand’s glow worm–fi lled Waitomo cave system, an interactive model of Puerto Rico’s bioluminescent

Mosquito Bay and the ethereal fi refl y photographs of Tsuneaki Hiramatsu (like the one above), all of which

are sure to put visitors in mind of a lazy summer evening—on a faraway planet. march 7

All T

THE MONTH AHEAD

THE MONTH AHEAD

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Talk BoxAn extraordinary audio document of a turbulent time

Howard Smith talked to every-

one. During the ’60s and ’70s,

the Oscar-winning director,

writer and broadcaster used his

national radio show to explore

cultural upheaval, si� ing down

with the likes of John Lennon

and Yoko Ono (above), Janis

Joplin and Norman Mailer; and

catching Dennis Hopper right

a� er Easy Rider premiered at

Cannes, Pete Townshend a� er

The Who played the Met, and

Andy Warhol subsequent to

his shooting.

Decades later, a crate of

tapes from the show was

discovered in Smith’s Manhat-

tan lo� , and, following a

Kickstarter campaign, they

have been restored, edited

and issued in the form of a

mammoth, rolling 100-part

digital release on Amazon and

iTunes (there’s a 12-disc CD box

set, too). This month brings the

latest in the series,

focused on the

breathtakingly ill-

fated Rolling Stones

concert at Altamont

and featuring

interviews with Mick, Keith

and company, plus the Grateful

Dead’s Jerry Garcia. MARCH 19

China: Proposing a toast? Lift a glass of the blazingly strong sorghum spirit maotai. Sorghum’s a decidedly unglamorous grain, but thanks to its hardiness it’s widely fermented and distilled across Asia and Africa. And maotai’s meant to be downed in one gulp—no sipping!

Quebec: Proving that folks will ferment whatever’s growing nearby, local bars in this Canadian sugar maple mecca serve up all kinds of libations made from the tree’s syrup: a rich maple syrup liqueur, maple rye whiskey and (surprisingly good) wines made from the fi rst spring sap.

Poland: Don’t leave Warsaw without trying zubrowka, a vodka fl avored with a sweet wild bison grass from the nearby Bialowieza Forest. A herd of endangered European bison feed on the grass, but don’t worry—strict protections ensure that there’s enough for both animals and distillers.

Drinks Shoots and LeavesPrimo cocktails don’t just grow

on trees—they also come from

roots, grasses and a host of other

leafy and twiggy bits, as Amy Stewart reveals in The Drunken

Botanist: The Plants That Create the World’s Great Drinks. Here, the pop horti-

culturist suggests a few regional specialties

for globe-tro� ing tipplers. march 19

DON’T BE SURPRISED if sometime in the future we get a new March holiday—Ziggy Day, say. Not only is David Bowie releasing his first album in a decade this month—ending

speculation that the singer, now 66, has gone pipe-and-slippers on us—but London’s Victoria and Albert Museum is also unveil-ing a huge retrospective of his career.

The curators of “David Bowie Is” pored over some 75,000 archival bits and bobs, accumulated by Bowie during half a century of manic creativity, to arrive at the 300-plus objects meant to reveal what the “Is” is. These range from Bowie’s Stardust-era psychedelic jumpsuit to the artist’s own diary entries (Friday: Revolutionize popular culture).

For co-curator Victoria Broackes, it’s the impromptu stuff that brings the show to life. “It’s extraordinary,” she

says of Bowie’s handwri� en lyrics, “seeing the crossings-out and line changes, how a song that’s become part of our lives’ soundtrack could have been so diff erent.”

Broackes describes Bowie as the “dream subject” for the V&A. “I cannot think of anyone—not just in pop, but in any fi eld—who has the breadth of

inspiration, output and reach that he has,” she says. “He worked on so many things, o� en at once. It really is astonishing.” MARCH 23

culture || THE MONTH AHEAD

t gs, o�

The Man Who Filled the EarthThe only problem with the V&A’s 300-item David Bowie retrospective? It had to leave 74,700 items out.

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LITERARY PITCHESTo honor the return of America’s pastime at the end of this month: three brand-new baseball books—and the fans most likely to deem them a hit

BASEBALL AS A ROAD TO GOD: Putting his popular college seminar into book form, NYU president John

Sexton references everyone from Thomas Aquinas to Tug McGraw in exploring the game’s spiritual side (think: faith, miracles, conversions). Great for: Anyone who’s ever found religion at the bottom of the ninth. MARCH 7

WHO’S ON WORST? Butterfi ngers and knuckleheads, beware: Filip Bondy lists the game’s all-time stinkers—

lousiest pitcher, most despicable owner, etc.—and backs it up with his cred as a longtime New York Daily News columnist. Great for: Hard-core hecklers. MARCH 26

INSIDE THE BASEBALL HALL OF FAME: Both the esoteric (an 1887 umpire’s ball/strike counter) and the

epic (Babe Ruth’s silver crown) are represented in this visual anthology of relics from the Cooperstown shrine. Great for: Those who’d happily watch all 18½ hours of Ken Burns’ Baseball in one go. APRIL 2

“SOME HAVE MANY HANDS REACHING FROM THE BEDSIDE AND OTHERS HAVE NONE, AND YET IN THAT FINAL MOMENT, THE AIR HEAVY AND LADEN AS MOLECULES REGROUP AND RESHAPE IN PREPARATION FOR THE EXIT, IT IS ALL THE SAME. IT IS LIKE THE MOMENT WHEN A SNAKE ENTERS THE YARD AND THE BIRDS FALL SILENT.” —From Life A� er Life, a rare new novel from the infl uential Southern author Jill McCorkle. march 26


Stop Me if You’ve Seen This One Before

A slew of this month’s movies come from directors known for

their big debuts—but just how far have they moved on?

Bob ByingtonHarmony and Me (2009)

Somebody Up There Likes Me (MARCH 12)

Same quirky, deadpan dialogue but better fi lm stock. And with Nick Off erman wearing glasses.

The Place Beyond the Pines (MARCH 20)

Bleak romantic drama gives way to bleak crime drama, but when you have Ryan Gosling in your only two feature fi lms, range is beside the point.

Derek CianfranceBlue Valentine (2010)

Paul WeitzAmerican Pie (1999)

Harmony KorineGummo (1997)

Sam RaimiThe Evil Dead (1987)

Bryan SingerThe Usual Suspects(1995)

Jack the Giant Slayer (MARCH 1)

Singer’s fl air for neo-noir seems well suited to dark fairy tales, but not even Keyser Söze would have seen Jack and the Beanstalk coming.

Spring Breakers(MARCH 22)

“Narrative” was once a dirty word for the edgy Korine, whose new project features a quartet of coed robbers and something resembling a plot. Weird!

Oz the Great and Powerful (MARCH 8)

Though it does involve witches, this prequel to one of the most kid-friendly movies ever could hardly be further from Raimi’s gory, schlocky origins.

Admission (MARCH 8)

Tina Fey and Paul Rudd are not only more likable than the goofballs in Weitz’sfi rst feature, they’re also far less likely to debase acertain iconic American foodstuff .

D E GGR E

E OO F D I FF F

E R E NCC E


WE HAVE THE BACKBONE.

We continually push the boundaries of neuroscience.At the Mischer Neuroscience Institute at Memorial Hermann–Texas Medical Center, we have areputation for innovation. We were selected to participate in the nation’s first multi-center trialto study the use of hypothermia following head injury. We established one of the first dedicated strokeprograms in the world. We orchestrate more clinical trials for new multiple sclerosis therapies thananyone in Texas. And we are leaders in performing complex spine surgeries and reconstructions.All of this is enabled by our groundbreaking affiliation with The University of Texas Health ScienceCenter at Houston (UTHealth) Medical School. Together, we make more neurosciencebreakthroughs every day. Learn more at neuro.memorialhermann.org.

NEUROSCIENCE BREAKTHROUGHS EVERY DAY

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WITH ITS FLEA-BITTEN COUCHES, rising damp and dubious air qual-ity, the Van Nuys, Calif., recording studio Sound City wasn’t the kind of place you’d immediately associate with artistic inspira-tion—even for artists comfortable being identifi ed with the word “grunge.”

“We got there and walked down the hallways and saw all those platinum records,” says Dave Grohl, former drummer for Nirvana, recalling the band’s arrival at the squalid studio in 1991 to record Nevermind. “It was kind of surprising.”

Despite the studio’s acoustically imperfect rooms and decades-old Neve analog mixing console, Nevermind went on to become, well, Nevermind. And with its success, another smash record was added to Sound City’s résumé, which included albums by everyone from Fleetwood Mac to Metallica.

Eventually, bugs and cigare� e burns became the least of Sound City’s worries. Ever since the advent of digital technology, the tape-based recording employed by the studio had been inching toward oblivion. And when Sound City closed in 2011, the fate of its legendary Neve console was uncertain.

So Grohl bought it. His decision to assume ownership of this gigantic technologi-cal throwback was not entirely sentimental: The Foo Fighters frontman is convinced the board can continue to produce hits, and to this end he installed it in his own studio, just outside Los Angeles.

Grohl’s eff orts to acquire the board, meanwhile, led to his making a documentary about the history of the famous studio, the recently released Sound City. It was followed by an all-star album, Sound City: Real to Reel, recorded by some of the musicians featured in the fi lm, including Paul McCartney, Stevie Nicks and Trent Reznor.

“I didn’t think there was a director inside me,” Grohl says. “But making the fi lm was a pleasure and, honestly, I thought it was easy.”

He goes on to admit that he did receive a li� le help along the way. “The person most responsible for the arc of the story was my mother, who was a creative-writing teacher,” he says. “She said, ‘Don’t give it away that you have the board. Tell the history of the studio … then it closes, then you get the board and then you make the record.’ I was like, ‘Huh. Thanks, Mom.’” ALBUM OUT MARCH 12

Keeping It RealDave Grohl shares his thoughts on low-tech wonders

On Trent Reznor: “He’s a brilliant, brilliant musician who doesn’t need technology. To see him sit down at a piano and play a piece of classical music is jaw-dropping, because he has incredible feel and time and a wonder-ful sense of tonality and composition.”On Muse: “That band could come into a studio with a board and a room like Sound City’s and make an album so powerful it would change the world. I don’t think Muse have to rely on anything but their own hands and their own hearts to make great music.”On being Wii-less: “You know, the pingpong table at my own studio might be as old as the Neve console from Sound City. I’ve got to say, I’m pretty old-school when it comes to pingpong.”

Tale of the TapeDave Grohl’s directorial debut is an ode to analog

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p037-042_HEM0313_Culture.indd 42p037-042_HEM0313_Culture.indd 42 31/01/2013 09:4931/01/2013 09:49

Making a diff erence. That’s what every good team captain wants. To motivate and encourage their players and to ensure that the results they achieve are remembered and make a diff erence in their life and the lives of others.

Right at Home is a respected interna-

tional care company based in the US

with almost 300 offi ces on 4 conti-

nents. It was Right at Home’s mission

to improve lives and the vast business

opportunities available, that convinced

Ken Deary to not only join the Right at Home team, but also become the team

captain for Right at Home UK.

“Having been a successful franchisee

for McDonald’s™ I learned a lot about

franchise systems, training and support.

I knew that franchising was the best way

to expand a business and I wanted to

be a part of that,” says Deary. “And this

time, I wanted to lead my own national

team of franchisees.”

Having seen fi rst hand with his own

family the need for quality in-home care

and the lack of good options in his com-

munity, Ken recognized immediately

the opportunity that Right at Home could give him. Statistics show that the

segment of people over the age of 85

is expected to quadruple by the year

2050. The need for quality in-home

senior care has never been needed

more than it is now.

Right at Home franchisees provide

in-home services such as meal prepa-

ration, companionship and medication

reminders for people needing assistance

with everyday tasks, enabling them to

remain in the place they are most com-

fortable…right in their own home.

“When I came across Right at Home,

I immediately knew that I had found a

winning team. They care about their

franchisees, the staff and caregivers and

the clients they serve. They are genuine.

I loved that. I loved the people and what

they stood for. I became an instant fan!”

proclaims Ken.

Ken Deary became the Master License

holder (franchisor) for the UK in Janu-

ary 2010. He opened his own pilot unit

in April 2010 and has since sold and

opened 13 franchises and is aiming for

20 by year end. He’s put together a win-

ning strategy, surrounded himself with

star players and has focused on scoring

the ultimate goal…making a diff erence

in his life and the lives of people in the

community.

“When I made the decision to join the

Right at Home team I didn’t take it

lightly,” professes Deary. “I did a lot of

research into the home care industry

and found that not only is good in-home

care needed now, it is going to be needed

even more over the coming decades. This

is a high growth area that will provide

security for Right at Home’s franchisees

and a wonderful caring service for the

clients who need us.”

Right at Home has franchises in the US,

Brazil, Canada, China and the UK and are

looking to expand at home and abroad.

Whether you want to captain your own

team internationally or would like to join

one of our winning teams in the US,

Brazil, Canada, China or the UK, Right at Home is looking for compassionate,

focused and dedicated players who

want to make a diff erence.

In football and

in life, we all have

the same goal…

to be part of awinning team.

IN 2050 THERE WILL BE2 BILLION PEOPLE OVER THEAGE OF 60 ON THE PLANET(compared with 700 million in 2010).

People aged 85 and over are the most rapidly growing age group worldwide. 1

The world’s 65 and over population increases by an average of 800,000 people each month. 2

The number of people living with dementia is estimated to double to 66 million by 2030.3

For more information on Right at Home franchise opportunities visit www.rightathomefranchise.com.

Right at Home, Inc. 6464 Center Street, Suite 150, Omaha, NE 68106. MN# F-4053. This information is not intended as an off er to sell, or the solicitation of an off er to buy a franchise.It is for information purposes only. Please consult your fi nancial advisor before making any investments. Sources: 1 United Nations, 2 US Census Bureau, 3 World Alzheimer’s Report

Advertisement

No.00000 Right_at_Home 1pp.indd 1No.00000 Right_at_Home 1pp.indd 1 06/02/2013 14:1006/02/2013 14:10

W

®. Jeff and Shauna opened

Entrepreneur

To learn more about franchising opportunities with The Goddard School, call 800-272-4901 or visit us online at GoddardSchoolFranchise.com.

*Average based on 2011. As stated in Item 19 of our Franchise Disclosure Document. 155 of 358 (43.3%) of franchises in this group did as well or better than the average. Franchisor cannot predict individual earnings. **Earnings Before Interest, Taxes, Depreciation and Amortization

All other material—Source: Marketdata Enterprises, Inc.

Over $220,000* Per our 2012 Franchise Disclosure Document,

Goddard School franchisees realized more than $220,000 average

EBITDA** in the year ending December 31, 2011.

9.2% annual growth expected in the childcare industry

14.4 million children in the U.S. are in some form of childcare

3.94 million births per year

65% of mothers with children under age 6 are in the workplace

THE NUMBERS ARE IN

GOODCHOICE®

Jeff and Shauna Barison

When we initially discussed opening a Goddard School, we focused on the family-friendly, lifestyle-oriented nature of the business. Our family is very involved and supports our efforts in growing and maintaining our two Schools.

- Jeff Barison

*Entrepreneur Magazine - January 2002 - 2013; The Goddard Schools are operated by independent franchisees under a license agreement with Goddard Systems, Inc. Programs and ages may vary. Substantiation available upon request. NY This advertisement is not an offering. An offering can only be made by a prospectus filed first with the Department of Law of the State of New York. Such filing does not constitute approval by the Department of Law. Goddard Systems, Inc., 1016 West Ninth Avenue, King of Prussia, PA 19406 © Goddard Systems Inc. 2013

MN #F-4335

No.35475_Goddard_School 1pp.indd 1No.35475_Goddard_School 1pp.indd 1 10/01/2013 09:1710/01/2013 09:17

1. High-heel cage sandals by Gucci, $1,350 / gucci.com

2. Cat sandals by Aperlaï, $1,310 /

aperlaiparis.com

3. Indira Rue sandals by Clarks, $80 / clarksusa.com

WE CAN NEVER REMEMBER exactly how that rhyme about snakes’ coloring goes, but we defi nitely don’t recall anything about green bands next to stiletto heels. Regardless, these vivid sandals—which slithered down spring runways in place of the staid white, tan or black python patterns of yesteryear—appear to be dangerous only in that they might cause traffi c acci-dents when you wear them out for cocktails. Brightly colored snakeskin instead of black? You’re all right, Jack.

Bright FangVibrant snakeskin sandals give spring

wardrobes a li� le bite BY JACQUELINE DETWILER

3

2

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • MARCH 2013 • PHOTOGRAPHS BY BRIAN KLUTCH 45

goods

R1_p047-049_HEM0313_Goods.indd 45R1_p047-049_HEM0313_Goods.indd 45 08/02/2013 09:4008/02/2013 09:40

1. Odyssey booties by Alejandro

Ingelmo, $1,995 / alejandroingelmo.com A Step

in the White DirectionChic ladies’ shoes come color-free this season

3. Ankle-wrap sandals by René

Caovilla, $530 /thecorner.com

2. Reina wedges by Edmundo Castillo, $1,175 / saksfi � havenue.com

While legwear has acquired some astonishing hues in recent seasons, color seems to have drained out of

the accompanying shoes. Among the most exciting styles we’ve seen, for instance, are strappy white

heels featuring mesh panels, cut-out bits or sparkly holographic elements. On the spring runways, many of these were paired with

raucous fl oral skirts or brocade pants. Oh, so that’s

what you’re supposed to wear with those.

p047-049_HEM0313_Goods.indd 46p047-049_HEM0313_Goods.indd 46 31/01/2013 09:5031/01/2013 09:50

Never a Dull Moment

Men’s shoes stroll into the limelight

“ Women have too many shoes” is an understandable sentiment—if and only if your own footwear options are limited to three or four standard styles in various shades of bland. This season, however, many men’s designers have expanded their lines to include silhoue� es such as wingtips, brogues and boat shoes in unconventional colors, fi nally making an expanded shoe collection a possibility for men who don’t want to wear high-tops. Hey, guys, good luck fi � ing all these options in your “half” of the closet.

1. Ellington suede wingtips by Johnston & Murphy, $135 / johnstonmurphy.com

2. Sully boat shoes by The Frye Company, $148 / thefryecompany.com

3. Tricker’s suede brogue sneakers by Junya Watanabe, $396 / mrporter.com

3

2

1

GOODS || culture


R1_p047-049_HEM0313_Goods.indd 47R1_p047-049_HEM0313_Goods.indd 47 08/02/2013 09:4108/02/2013 09:41

It’s the same old story every time – you travel for work but never actually

see anything. So next time you’re in town, make the most out of your journey

with a Bizcation™ – add a day or two to your business trip and see what the

Bay Area really has to off er.

You could start by going north on Highway 101, which

takes you over the Golden Gate Bridge. It’s a treat of

a drive – if you’ve got a sunroof or a convertible, glance

up at its mighty spars to fully appreciate what a feat of

engineering the bridge is. Meanwhile, sailboats some

220 feet below you tack back and forth on winds fresh

off the Pacifi c Ocean to the west. Then the road quickly

takes you into the high, green country just above the

bay. But there’s no point in rushing, so pit-stop in San

Francisco’s own Riviera of Sausalito. Drive down past

charming houses nestled on the hill, and at the water’s

edge you’ll fi nd colorful houseboats and the catch of

the day in any of the restaurants.

Back on the road, you’re only about an hour from

Napa Valley. The area is just 35 miles long, so you

can reach everything from whichever of the 150 or

so accommodations you choose. From Calistoga in

the north to American Canyon in the south, there are

eight distinctive communities off ering you some of

California’s best food, natural spas and, of course,

wineries. There’s a strong culture of farm-to-table

cuisine that has attracted top chefs like Cindy Pawlcyn,

the genius behind local favorite Cindy’s Backstreet

Kitchen in St. Helena. On the way back, shop for

antiques or picnic on the grounds of a winery. If you’re

in an SUV, you’ll certainly enjoy the extra room after

all the food – not to mention the space to carry home

a few souvenirs.

To the east of San Francisco lie gems like Lake Tahoe

and Yosemite National Park. Beautiful Carmel and the

outstanding Monterey Bay Aquarium are south on

world-famous Highway 1. But if you can’t do it all this

time, don’t worry. There’s always another business trip

crying out to become your next Bizcation.

A V I S B I Z C A T I O N ™ S E R I E S | C H A P T E R 1

Beyond the bridge Tack on an extra day, get behind the wheel and take an adventure outside San Francisco.

SOME OF SAN FRANCISCO’S MOST

WORTHWHILE DESTINATIONS ARE JUST

A FEW HOURS’ DRIVE OUTSIDE THE CITY.

Phil’s Fish Market & Eatery: At Moss Landing on Highway 1, pick up a bowl of fresh cioppino. Then on to Monterey and Carmel.GPS: N36°48.1913’, W121°47.2206’

Lake Tahoe: Head east on I-80 to Sacramento, state capital and Old West charmer. Then hike in fresh alpine air around sparkling blue waters.GPS: N39°10.1502’, W120°8.5387’

Carmel: Take Highway 1 south to this village by the sea. Fine art, good food and quaint cottages await.GPS: N36°33.2657’, W121°55.4654’

™

No.00000 Avis_March_DPS.indd 2No.00000 Avis_March_DPS.indd 2 30/01/2013 16:0630/01/2013 16:06

For reservations, visit www.avis.com/unitedtriplemiles or call 1-800-331-1212. Use AWD K019378 and coupon number MUAA069 when booking.

Terms and Conditions: Triple miles off er valid on a qualifying rental of one or more consecutive days at participating Avis airport locations in the U.S., Canada, Africa, Asia, Australia, the Caribbean, Europe, Latin America, Mexico, the Middle East and New Zealand. Bonus miles off er valid on all car groups. An advance reservation is required. Off er may not be used with any other coupon, promotion or off er except your Avis Worldwide Discount (AWD). The savings of up to 25% applies to the time and mileage charges only. Taxes, concession recovery fees, vehicle license recovery fee, customer facility charges ($10/contract in CA) and fuel charges are extra. Optional items such as LDW ($35.99/day or less) and other surcharges may apply and are extra. MileagePlus number must be mentioned at the time of reservation or at the rental counter to receive base and bonus miles. Off er is subject to vehicle availability at the time of rental and may not be available on some rates at some times, including some online rates at Avis.com. Car rental return restrictions may apply. Off er subject to change without notice. Holiday and other blackout periods may apply. Blackout dates: Australia: March 29 – April 28, 2013, and June 21 – July 21, 2013; Europe, Middle East and Africa: March 23 – April 7, 2013, and July 1 – August 31, 2013; Latin America, Mexico and the Caribbean: March 22 – 31, 2013, and July 1 – August 31, 2013. Renter must meet Avis age, driver and credit requirements. Minimum rental age may vary by location. An additional daily surcharge may apply for renters younger than 25 years old. Frequent fl yer surcharge of up to $0.75 USD per day may apply. Rental must begin by August 31, 2013. Premier members earn an additional 50 bonus award miles per day. Miles accrued, awards, and benefi ts issued are subject to change and are subject to the rules of the United MileagePlus program. Please allow 6-8 weeks after completed qualifying activity for bonus miles to post to your account. United may change the MileagePlus program including, but not limited to, rules, regulations, travel awards and special off ers or terminate the MileagePlus program at any time and without notice. Bonus award miles, award miles and any other miles earned through non-fl ight activity do not count or qualify for Premier® status unless expressly stated otherwise. United and its subsidiaries, affi liates and agents are not responsible for any products and services of other participating companies and partners. Taxes and fees related to award travel are the responsibility of the member. The accumulation of mileage or Premier or other status does not entitle members to any vested rights with respect to the program. United and MileagePlus are registered service marks. For complete details about the MileagePlus program, go to www.united.com.

© 2013 Avis Rent A Car System, LLC

We think business and pleasure should coexist. That’s why we’re off ering great BizcationTM deals. For a limited time, you can save up to 25% worldwide and earn 225 miles per day. So next time you travel, tack on an extra day or two for yourself and make the most out of your trip with Avis – the preferred rental car of United.

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No.00000 Avis_March_DPS.indd 3No.00000 Avis_March_DPS.indd 3 30/01/2013 16:0730/01/2013 16:07

A D V E R T I S E M E N T

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No.35507_Hotze_Enterprises 1pp.indd 1No.35507_Hotze_Enterprises 1pp.indd 1 04/02/2013 14:3804/02/2013 14:38

THE MERE FACT THAT I’m wearing a kilt and white kneesocks isn’t what’s making today’s round at The Westin Kierland Resort feel a bit unusual. It’s that I’m dressed in a kilt and I’m about to ride out to my fi rst tee shot on a Segway like some kind of Sco� ish charioteer.

Having hit my opening drive, I mount the scooter and lean forward. The manicured grass beneath me fl ies past in a green blur as I teeter, trying to maintain both balance and dignity. Following a successful (if inelegant) dismount, I grab a 5-wood and hit just short of the fi rst pu� ing surface into a sloping, tightly mown collection area. From here I get up and down, thanks to a beautiful rolling pitch shot.

I’d bow, but given my outfi t, it might be safer if I curtsied.Golfers who’ve been to Scotland more than once know

that the most satisfying golf experiences are o� en found

away from the trophy courses. So it is here in Scottsdale, Ariz., where—beyond bucket-list venues like Champions and Stadium at TPC, We-Ko-Pa and Grayhawk—you’ll discover a wealth of lesser-known spots off ering unusual new programs, unexpected quality, smaller crowds and lower green fees. Kierland’s Sco� ish-themed package, for instance, includes a loan of formal Sco� ish a� ire and a bagpiper calling you in at the 18th green to sip Johnnie Walker at the Caledonian-infl uenced gastropub Bri� lebush.

Kierland’s three nine-hole golf loops, designed by Sco� Miller, feature golden desert grasses, elevation changes, dry washes and more than 300 bunkers of every shape and size fi lled with gleaming white sand. Ribbons of sandy waste areas and dun-colored dormant grasses frame many holes and accentuate the targets. Gently rolling mounds

Exploring the other side of a global golf mecca. While wearing a kilt. And riding a Segway.

BY JEFF WALLACH

Great Scottsdale

the fan


WELL-PLAID, SIRChanneling a bit of Scotland at

The Westin Kierland Resort

p051-053_HEM0313_TheFan.indd 51p051-053_HEM0313_TheFan.indd 51 31/01/2013 09:5231/01/2013 09:52

52 DECEMBER 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

may reward slightly errant shots or create sidehill lies that will challenge your iron game. They will also challenge your Segway skills (though you can opt for a cart with an air-cooled mister, which comes in handy when the mercury soars into triple digits).

While the name of fi ve-diamond resort The Phoenician suggests a leap back in history, the property is in fact a paean to modern luxury. One morning I roamed the cactus garden across from the lobby, admiring barrel cacti, smooth-barked palo verde trees and other local fl ora while sip-ping my coff ee. In the evening, we sat by a fi re pit and watched the sky turn purple and the stars pop out above Camelback Mountain, just behind the sprawling wings of the hotel.

The Phoenician proves that a course doesn’t have to be long and diffi cult to be, well, diffi cult. These 27 holes are all about subtlety—and they’re also about Camel-back Mountain, which the golf course meanders around and sometimes nearly over and back down. Camelback quietly influences not just putts, but also club selection, stance and maybe even your mood. At times during my round, I lost track of the mountain, focusing instead

on the task at hand (i.e., ge� ing the golf ball to land somewhere near the pin). But then I’d leave a 3-foot pu� a foot short on a seemingly fl at green, look up to see the mountain lurking and realize that the green was practically straight uphill.

The Desert/Canyon routing commences amid a tranquil setting of flower beds, palms and mesquite, winds past resort facilities and stately Spanish-style houses, then transitions into a wilder terrain of rock and brush. As we were deciding what club to hit for our tee shots on the Desert’s par-3 sixth, which drops 100 feet to a glimmering island of green, some hikers stopped to watch—and we suddenly real-ized that laughter, particularly the derisive kind, echoes here (in other words: choose carefully). The Canyon has even more elevation changes and, at the seventh and eighth holes, back-to-back par-3s decorated with streams, gardens and waterfalls.

Fountain Hills’ SunRidge Canyon Golf Club is home to the Jim McLean Golf School, which is convenient, as you’ll need an improved short game to master 18 holes that blend into the land as if they were carved by the movement of water and wind over millennia. Architect Keith Foster sited the holes in red rock canyons

and atop boulder-strewn ridges—creating distinctly diff erent canvases of gorgeously rendered golf features.

The opening salvo descends gradually before doubling back to climb on the way in. Don’t forget this, as you’ll want to make your pars and birdies early. Ravine cross-ings are o� en required, but always present themselves clearly (so you’ll have only yourself to blame if you duff it, as when I landed in a dry arroyo a� er stubbing a 3-wood on the 12th). No. 13 kicks off the so-called Wicked Six, which plays mostly uphill into the wind, and encompasses

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water, steep drops around elevated greens, and other features that are maddening and entertaining by turns.

The Native American–owned Talking Stick Resort boasts two golf layouts designed by Coore & Crenshaw. I ventured out on the North Course, which opens with a couple of wide, welcoming fairways that seem impossible to miss off the tee (note: seem) before narrowing toward the fi rst few greens. The la� er reside awfully close to rough desert scrub, where we actually saw a herd of wild horses grazing. By the third hole, bunker pods and waste areas grow increasingly prevalent and closer to the fi elds of play.

No. 12 proved to be one of my favorites: a 392-yard dogleg called Red Mountain Gambler. Golfers choosing to take a chance must carry 204 yards of sandy waste area with their drives. Less adventuresome players can bail out to the right—or, like me, opt to carry the sand but hit it to the right anyway, by accident, leaving a long approach that must carry an arroyo in front of the green. And the greens themselves (newly rebuilt, lovely to look

at, completely unforgiving) have a way of trampolining good shots to the back of, or clean over, the pu� ing surfaces.

Six thousand Georgia pines distinguishRaven Golf Club—formerly known as The Raven at South Mountain—from the area golf courses that accentuate their Sonoran cred. In addition to the new name, the Phoenix facility spotlights a new trend in golf: a set of family tees shrunk down to 4,100 yards.

Gary Panks and David Graham, designers known for their desert golf architecture, let the cacti and ra� lesnakes remain in the background on a lush, expansive layout. Subtleties abound, such

as the sloped embankments lining the fi rst hole that work to guide slightly mis-hit shots back to the fairway. Also at work is a design that requires strategy to ensure the best “leaves,” as in billiards. Angles of a� ack ma� er here, so profi cient players will want to think a shot or two ahead. No. 5 is the signature hole—a super-short par-4 where wise golfers will hit an iron to the le� off the tee and then avoid both the false front before the green and the deep retention area behind it (wiser golfers than I, who experienced both). The back nine plays a few shots easier than the front. Stadium-size pu� ing surfaces may aff ect the yardages on many holes, so check pin positions before fi ring.

When you’ve fi nished with golf, refuel at any number of great clubhouse and resort restaurants close by the courses, such as Relish Burger Bistro at The Phoenician (I recommend the Kobe beef burger in par-ticular) and Deseo at The Westin Kierland, whose spicy Nuevo Latino cuisine is the perfect counterpoint to a breeze blowing up your kilt.

JEFF WALLACH is executive editor of the web-sites The A Position and Golf Road Warriors.

THE FAN || culture

53

JUST DESERTS Right, The Phoenician, with Camelback Mountain behind it; below left, the Native American–owned Talking Stick Resort

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Believe it or not, your computer

screen may be getting in the

way of your dating life. While

we may use technology to stay “con-

nected” to friends and family, when

it comes to meeting potential part-

ners, the digital world obscures the

thing that matters most: chemistry.

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ing scene, we talked to Cindy

Herington, one of the many dat-

ing experts at It’s Just Lunch, the

world’s largest personalized match-

making service. Here she explains

why you should ditch the laptop for the tabletop.

TIPS FROM IJL DATING

EXPERT

Up Close and

P E R S O N A L

1 Ditch the Laptop

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The online buzz about It’s Just Lunch:

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Do you prefer to date someone in the same industry as you or in a different profession altogether?

Would you date one of your company’s clients or potential clients?

Does the time that a potential partner travels for business affect your willingness to pursue a relationship?

MIXING BUSINESS AND DATING?

Different industry

Same industry

Similar line of work and position

Similar line of work but different position

10%

10%

10%70%

I am busy, but expect a potential partner to be local more often than traveling.

I am busy myself, so if a partner is gone for a week at a time, I am okay with that!

No, a partner on frequent business related trips does not bother me.

Yes, I prefer potential partners to be more accessible.16%

27%

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Yes. But I would keep work and play separate.

Men

Yes. I would consider if the situation felt

appropriate, but not exchange for any business favors.

WomYes. And I would

give them add’l business if helped seal the deal.

No. It’s unprofessional.

30.9%38.9%

26.1%18.5%

1.6%

0.3%

41.4%

42.3%

Betty Sinclair Sara Darling

Source: IJL Survey of 4400 singles

It’s Just Lunch Dating Specialists:

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REBUILDING ROME IN TWO AND A HALF YEARS

There are few reminders of the Roman Empire’s gran-deur more arresting than the Colosseum, still standing a� er nearly 2,000 years. In order to remain standing for the next 2,000, however, the building needs some help. Researchers from Sapienza University of Rome have con-fi rmed that the south side of the foundation—which rests on the so� er ground that was once beneath an artifi cial lake created for the emperor Nero—is sagging. To even out the foundation, check for cracks, clean the stonework and make repairs, all while keeping the building open to tourists, Italy’s Ministry of Cultural Heritage and Activi-ties is undertaking the fi rst-ever Colosseum restoration project. Scheduled to wrap in 2015, it’s priced at roughly $33 million and is largely fi nanced by Italian shoemaker Tod’s. Here’s how they’ll do it. BY JACQUELINE DETWILER

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • MARCH 2013 • ILLUSTRATION BY JAMES PROVOST 57

1 Scaff olds positioned in front of the fi rst four arcades will allow workers to clean and repair the building’s exterior while maintaining areas for tourists. The temporary metal stays used to protect the Colosseum’s arches will be removed, and the arches will be shored up more permanently.

2 A major aim is to increase the public space by 25 percent. Workers will accomplish this in part by building a visitors center with a café, a bookshop and a display of artifacts discovered during the renovation (including an 18th-century model of the Colosseum complete with secret passageways).

3 Throughout the project, scientists from Sapienza University will monitor the building using high-sensitivity accelerometers that can record accelerations as small as 1/10,000th the force of gravity. This will help offi cials prevent further damage to the masonry from traffi c, subways, tourists, wind and earthquakes.

3

2

1

INNOVATION BUSINESS GADGETRY

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INDUSTRY

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • MARCH 2013 • ILLUSTRATION BY CHRISTOPHER NIELSEN 59

INTEL, YOU CAN DRIVE MY CAR

FULLY AUTOMATED VEHICLES PROMISE TO REDUCE ACCIDENTS AND SAVE DRIVERS TIME AND MONEY, BUT THEIR LONG-AWAITED

ARRIVAL MAY NOT BE GOOD NEWS FOR ALLBY BOYD FARROW

Three decades ago, driverless cars were everywhere. Among the most popular novels(and films) of 1983 was Stephen King’s Christine, about a malevolent Plymouth on a hit-and-run spree. One of the best-loved TV shows was “Knight Rider,” in which a big-haired David Hasselhoff teamed up with an opinionated Trans Am to fi ght crime.

Then, poof: Self-driven cars went the way of the jet pack and the robot maid—an absorbing fi ction, but li� le more.

Now, however, the fantasy seems about to be realized. “It’s really happening. All car companies are investing lots of money in this,” says John Leech, U.K. head of auto-motive for accounting giant KPMG. “The technology is here now—automatic brak-ing, cruise control and lane centering are available. The next stage is getting total mobile Internet connectivity to join up all the sensors. We are on a gradual jour-ney to fully automatic driving.”

p059-061_HEM0313_Industry.indd 59p059-061_HEM0313_Industry.indd 59 31/01/2013 09:5431/01/2013 09:54

BRIGHT IDEAS || INDUSTRY

Several tests have already been conducted on public roads with cars whose manual brakes and steering wheels were replaced with sensors and so� ware enabling vehicle-to-vehicle communica-tion. Volvo recently had four self-driving cars platooning at 53 mph along a 124-mile route near Barcelona. Engineers from German automotive supplier Continental have racked up 10,000-plus miles test-driving automated Volkswagen Passats in the U.S. and Germany. Last fall the state of California enacted legislation that paves the way for test-drives in traffi c by Google’s computerized Toyota Priuses, which have been in trials in Nevada for almost a year.

A recent study by KPMG, in col-laboration with the nonprofit Center for Automotive Research, suggests that the first cars capable of communicat-ing with traffi c infrastructure and with each other could come onto the market within fi ve to 10 years. Indeed, the study’s authors speculated that there will be so many autonomous vehicles on the road by 2025, people stopped at traffi c lights won’t do a double-take if a car pulls up and its “driver” is shaving.

Like many watershed technologi-cal developments, this one is arriving in increments. For years, automakers have been engaged in a fi erce competi-tion to off er increasingly sophisticated driver-assist features. The 2014 Mercedes S-Class, due to launch this year, boasts

26 separate sensors that can monitor traffi c up to 656 feet ahead, recognize lane markings and use the vehicle in front as a positioning beacon when no lane mark-ings are visible.

It’s not only the car companies that have a stake in this technology. The motor club federation AAA has estimated the annual cost of U.S. road accidents at about $300 billion. Traffic congestion, meanwhile, robs Americans of nearly 5 billion hours a year and costs about $100 billion in lost productivity and fuel expenses. Self-driving cars could put a significant dent in these figures, with the added benefit of increased fuel effi ciency.

It is the nature of revolutions, though, for fortunes to be raised and lowered in equal number. Certainly, when this technology takes off —nobody is saying if anymore—the automotive industry will enter a period of transformation. Tech fi rms appear set to emerge as the big winners, as their input will no longer be confi ned to providing “extras”; rather, they’ll be shaping the fundamentals of the driving experience. Intel, Google and others are already sinking billions into research and development, threatening to diminish the role that traditional carmakers play in devising the vehicles of tomorrow.

Indeed, in one scenario envisioned by KPMG, major players in the data market could design a vehicle operating system

60

If you’re looking for a detailed rundown on that meeting you missed, you’d probably do best to ask the quiet

girl who sits in the corner. According to a study by Dutch scientist Camiel Beukeboom published in The Journal of Language and Social Psychology, an introvert is far more

likely than an extrovert to use specifi c descriptive language. In the experiment, subjects described a set of photos, then

returned days later to take a personality test. It turned out that among extroverts, abstract speech patterns (The boss was being mean) were far more common than concrete ones (The boss argued with the sales team). The reverse was true for introverts, who also used more numbers, articles (such as “the”) and references to specifi c people. That’s not to say the news is all bad for boisterous types: Researchers believe extroverts may be better at interpret-ing actions to draw inferences about people and situations. Anyway, happy hour is, uh, down the street. Hope you can make it. —JACQUELINE DETWILER

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and simply outsource the production of the actual vehicle to an external partner—possibly someone other than a tra-ditional automotive manufacturer. As Larry Burns, co-author of Reinventing the Automobile, said in a presentation to the National Automobile Dealers Association in New York last year, “Incumbent players rarely do well when industries disrupt.”

There will be a knock-on effect for other players, too. Steelmakers, faced with the prospect of safer and therefore less fortifi ed vehicles, are likely viewing developments with concern. And nobody has yet been able to fathom what all this will mean for insurance companies. Who’s at fault when two fully automated cars collide?

For the likes of you and me, auto-mated vehicles promise to save time and money and to improve our personal safety. Moreover, who wouldn’t relish the opportunity for a nice snooze during those interminable trips to the in-laws’ place at Thanksgiving? But Leech, for all his conviction, doesn’t foresee the demise of the steering wheel and brake pedal just yet.

“For some, the whole point of driving is the actual driving,” he says. “People will carry on buying Ferraris.”

BOYD FARROW is dreading the day when someone comes up with the automated magazine columnist.

MARCH 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COMMARCH 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • MARCH 2013 • ILLUSTRATION BY LINCOLN AGNEW 63

TECH

On a summer night in 2007, in the southeast corner of the Netherlands, Hanny van Arkel discovered a never-before-seen space object: a gas cloud wrapped around a former galaxy 730 million light-years from Earth. Van Arkel spo� ed the glowing green blob now known as Hanny’s Voorwerp (Dutch for “object”) while classifying galaxies in one of millions of photos taken during an exhaustive space-mapping eff ort called the Sloan Digital Sky Survey. ¶ Van Arkel, it turns out, is not a professional astronomer but a 29-year-old schoolteacher and amateur musician. She started scanning the skies as a hobby a� er seeing some cool space photos on the

ROLL OVER, GALILEOA NEW GENERATION OF CITIZEN SCIENTISTS IS TAKING DISCOVERY

OUT OF THE IVORY TOWER AND ONTO THE STREET BY HILLARY ROSNER

p063_064_HEM0313_Tech.indd 63p063_064_HEM0313_Tech.indd 63 31/01/2013 09:5731/01/2013 09:57


website of her musical idol, Brian May, guitarist in the rock band Queen. Intrigued, she sought out the photos’ source, a site called Galaxy Zoo. Soon a� er-ward, having sat through a quick tutorial, she set to work.

Unable to process the volume of images they’d amassed, Galaxy Zoo’s astronomers had decided to recruit members of the public to help out. Van Arkel was just one of 150,000 people who contributed to the project in its fi rst year, generating more than 50 million classifi cations. The project has since received countless millions more, allowing scientists to be� er explore such topics as bars and bulges in disc galaxies and the sudden deaths of quasars.

Astronomers are not the only experts willing to let amateurs get involved in their work. So-called “citizen scientists” are now being recruited to assist with everything from archaeology to cancer research. Anyone can participate in these projects: Joining generally requires only an Internet connection, a decent attention span and a lot of spare time. True, the trend may threaten to knock scientists out of their ivory towers—but few are inclined to complain about hav-ing access to what is, in eff ect, a million unpaid research assistants.

There have, in fact, been previous large-scale eff orts to apply the resources of ordinary people to scientifi c research. Back in 1999, SETI@home sought to fur-ther the search for extraterrestrial life by harnessing unused processing power from thousands of individuals’ PCs to create a virtual supercomputer. The

project ultimately failed to turn up any aliens, but it was nonetheless hailed as a mighty success.

The citizen science model takes inspiration from the SETI@home project, only in this instance the excess processing power comes from a far more sophisticated machine: the human brain. And while the idea itself is nothing new—fi elds like public health and conser-vation have been soliciting input from laypersons for decades—citizen science builds on the very contemporary phenomenon of crowdsourcing, which has systematically decentralized research and development in ways that would have been unimaginable a few years ago.

So it is, across the world, that we have a� orneys mapping bird migration, bus drivers decoding whale songs and schoolteachers discovering far-off gas clouds. Some projects even require partici-pants to go out into the fi eld. Earthwatch Institute, one of the earliest proponents of citizen science, invites amateur researchers to get their boots muddy in far-fl ung places like Malawi and Ecuador, for instance.

Meanwhile, an off-shoot dubbed “extreme citizen science” aims to help disenfranchised communities create their own projects, and in doing so explore topics that are near and dear to them. In one recent example, an anthropologist at Uni-versity College London helped (by way of GPS and other modern doodads) a Pygmy community in Congo identify and protect its most valued trees, which were being threatened by the chain saws of a logging conglomerate.

While the benefi ts to researchers are obvious, many believe that the rise of citizen science will have profound eff ects on not only the fi eld of scientifi c discovery, but also the culture at large. If nothing else, the shroud of mystery that has always obscured scholarly exper-tise is being stripped away, replaced by something more collaborative, more accessible, even more fun. Jennifer Shirk, a Ph.D. candidate at Cornell University who studies citizen science, is fascinated by the potential. “What might we be able to accomplish,” she says, “if we start thinking about science in those terms?”

Hanny van Arkel now has her own website, on which she shares her musings on a wide range of topics, including what she calls “my object in the sky.” She’s available to do lectures for experts or novices, she explains, and she also has quite a lot to say on the subject of Brian May. Her voorwerp, meanwhile, is being scrutinized by scientists, who would love to fi nd other objects like it—and who would welcome any help they can get.

HILLARY ROSNER, a Colorado-based writer, doesn’t have the patience to discover a heavenly body that’s much harder to spot than the moon.

MARCH CROSSWORD ANSWERS

BRIGHT IDEAS || TECH

All across the world, there are

a� orneys mapping bird migration, bus

drivers decoding whale songs and

schoolteachers discovering far-off

gas clouds.

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68THE HEMI Q&A: MATT DAMONAs co-founder of Water.org,the high-wattage movie star sheds light on a global health

crisis—and a surprisingly innovative solution

72THE BUTTERFLY EFFECT

After decades of confl ict, an unlikely alliance takes shape

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Sierra Madre mountains

76ALL THAT GLITTERS

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ILLUSTRATION BY CHRISTINE BERRIE • MARCH 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

p067_HEM0313_Feature TOC.indd 67p067_HEM0313_Feature TOC.indd 67 31/01/2013 09:5831/01/2013 09:58

68

MARCH 2013

THE HEMI Q&A

Ma� DamonOne of Hollywood’s biggest earners has become one of the world’s leading advocates for

clean water. We sit down with him to discuss his eff orts with Water.org—plus, what it’s like to be yelled at by an irate John Krasinski and smacked repeatedly on the head by a 2-year-old.

BY DAVID CARR ILLUSTRATION BY JOE MORSE

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JUNE 2012 69

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70

LIKE A LOT OF CELEBRITIES, Matt Damon has his pet causes. In contrast to many of his peers, though, he actually digs in and does the work. And in Damon’s world, there is nothing more important than clean water. As co-founder of Water.org, which helps poor communities build their own water supply systems, he’s determined to see that fresh water is available to the mil-lions who don’t have it. That sounds far-fetched in a Hollywood-movie sort of way, but Water.org is intent on harnessing market forces to make wholesale gains, rather than just drilling a few more wells.

Of course, in his spare time Damon continues to tend to his career as one of Hollywood’s most bankable stars. I met him at the Waldorf Astoria in Manha� an late last year, when he was in town doing press for Promised Land, the Gus Van Sant indie he wrote with John Krasinski (“The Offi ce”) about one community’s struggles over le� ing a big energy company set up a fracking opera-tion. (Damon’s prowess as an author is proven; recall that his sole Oscar is for co-writing Good Will Hunting.) And he was fresh off receiving a career achievement award at the Gotham Independent Film Awards in New York City—a notable accomplishment, given that he’s only 42.

With his hair cropped short for a role as a soldier in the futuristic Elysium (due out in August), and wearing a pair of glasses that could have been right off the drugstore rack, Damon looked like a mighty regular guy when we met. Over a couple of bo� les of water, we talked about, well, water, then Promised Land, balancing career and family, and, fi nally, temporary baldness. Among folks who cover the famous, Damon is considered the gold standard: smart, funny, nice, always plays ball. This interview was no exception.

THE HEMI Q&A: MATT DAMON

GOODWILL HUNTING Damon

and Water.org’s Gary White with

youngsters in Haiti; onstage at the

Gotham Awards; with Promised Land

collaborators John Krasinski and

Gus Van Sant

sh off ndent given

uristic s that like a

water, career cover

funny,

R1_p068-071_134_HEM0313_Q&A.indd 70R1_p068-071_134_HEM0313_Q&A.indd 70 08/02/2013 09:4508/02/2013 09:45

HEMISPHERES: For a big name such as yourself, there are plenty of good causes on which to expend celebrity capital. What made you think you could put a dent in the world’s water problems?

DAMON: The enormity of it. Water

underpins everything. My personal

connection started when I went on a

water collection with a 14-year-old girl

in Zambia, and she grabbed her jerrican

and we walked a mile to the well. It was

a long walk, and we talked about all the

things she could be doing if she didn’t

have to walk so far to get water.

HEMISPHERES: Which one of you carried the can back?

DAMON: She did, like it was nothing.

I was in Ethiopia a couple of years ago,

and there was an 8-year-old girl who

li� ed one of these cans and started

walking up a hill. I said, “Give me that

thing,” took it and tried to walk up.

I was in shape—I was doing Invictus,

which was a rugby movie—and it was

hard. That kid weighed a third of what

I weighed. It was amazing what she

went through to get water.

HEMISPHERES: But water has a bit of a marketing problem. Because it’s so abundant here, people can’t imagine how big a deal it is in sub-Saharan Africa. In terms of global issues, AIDS actually has more traction in the public consciousness.

DAMON: Yeah, because everybody

knows, or has known, somebody

with AIDS. My wife’s father died of it.

It touches people in a very personal

way. The fi rst hurdle we have to clear

is trying to explain to the public that

there are 780 million people who

don’t have access to clean and safe

water, that every 21 seconds a kid

under the age of 5 dies from a water-

related disease. It just doesn’t make

sense to people. There’s clean water

in this room; there’s clean water all

over the West. We’ve known how

to access clean water for a hundred

years. We’ve fi gured that out. Now

it’s a ma� er of making sure that it

extends to everyone.

HEMISPHERES: It’s not like people aren’t trying to get it done.

DAMON: Sure, but half of all water

projects fail. There are massive

ineffi ciencies in the space. That’s one

of the things I love about Gary White,

who runs Water.org. Digging wells

won’t solve the problem. We’ll never

be able to dig enough wells. So Gary

invented this idea of “water credit,”

which is really brilliant. It helps turn

people into customers, and uses the

power of the market to access exist-

ing resources.


CONTINUED ON PAGE 134 »WAT

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WATER.ORG BY THE NUMBERS

Global population

7 BILLION

Number of people without

access to clean water

780 MILLION

Estimated number of hours they

spend collecting water each day

200 MILLION

Number of people without

adequate sanitation services

2.5 BILLION

Percentage of illnesses in

developing nations related

to unsafe drinking water and

poor sanitation

80

Average amount of water,

in gallons, used daily by a person

in a developing nation

2.6

Average amount of water,

in gallons, used daily by a

person in the U.S.

100

Amount of loans made through

Water.org’s microfi nance program,

WaterCredit

$9.2 MILLION

Number of people served by

WaterCredit projects worldwide

500,000+

Number of people that WaterCredit

aims to benefi t by 2020

100 MILLION

During a mile-long hike to a well with a Zambian girl, “we talked about all the things she could be doing if she didn’t have to walk so far to get water.”

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For generations, the residents of a small,

rural slice of Mexico’s Sierra Madre

mountains have pursued their livelihoods

at the expense of the monarch butterfl y.

Now, locals and the migrating insects have

forged an unlikely alliance. PHIL PRIMACK

travels to Michoacán to investigate.

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S THE PEOPLE around him huff and puff their way along a rocky trail 10,000 feet up in Mexico’s Sierra Madre mountains,

Javier Martínez Colín walks with the easy gait of a man in familiar territory. The 56-year-old chairman of his local ejido, or agricultural collective, says li� le as the path narrows and the forest grows denser. The group is entering the Sierra Chincua sanctuary, and Martínez knows what’s coming next.

A solitary bu� erfl y fl i� ers over the path. Then fi ve, then a dozen. Before long, the air is thick with them. Weighing just half a gram each, the insects cling to the trees in such numbers that the branches bend under their weight. Finally, the trees don’t look like trees at all, but tree-shaped clumps of wings. Beneath his white straw cowboy hat, Martínez looks on coolly as his charges fumble for their cameras. All his life he has watched las monarcas return to their winter retreats in the states of Michoacán and Mexico, turning the forest into a vivid swirl of orange and black. He played with them as a kid.

Monarch migration to this beautiful but poor slice of Mexico is now recognized as a wonder of the natural world. UNESCO granted the protected sanctuaries World Heritage Site status in 2008. However, the bu� erfl ies were not always warmly embraced here. “People used to think the monarchs were the souls of the departed,” Martínez says, explaining that the bu� erfl ies’ fi ve-month stay usually begins around Nov. 1, Mexico’s Day of the Dead. Later, as their numbers declined and conservation eff orts were taken up, the monarchs came to be viewed as actual impediments to human survival, sparking illegal logging rackets and, in places, civil unrest.

It’s been a long, diffi cult struggle, but it has fi nally ended. In Sierra Chincua, Martínez leans back against an oyamel fi r, the hum of countless bu� erfl y wings overhead. Having grown up helping his father log these forests, he knows his livelihood now relies on something that until recently seemed inconceivable: keeping them intact.

A S THE PEOPLE



IT’S AN AGE-OLD conservationist conundrum, one that is played out in various forms across the world: the con-

fl icting environmental needs of humans and wildlife. Historically, of course, humans have generally prevailed—some-times to the extent that a rival species is displaced altogether. By the mid-1980s, there was a real concern that this would be the fate of Mexico’s monarchs, whose habitat was being destroyed at an alarm-ing rate. But when the government moved to formally restrict logging in these areas, it provoked an angry response.

“At first, people resented what the government did,” says Ana Maria Muñiz Salcedo, co-founder of Alternare, a Michoacán-based nonprofi t that promotes sustainable living. “People depended on

the trees for income and to cook and to heat their houses. This was a major switch in their way of life, but nobody came to ask them—even though they were the owners of the forests.”

Things intensified in 2000 with the establishment of the Monarch Bu� erfl y Biosphere Reserve, a protection zone that encompasses about 217 square miles (an area roughly the size of Chicago). The reserve was good news for las monarcas,but not for those residents whose

livelihoods were eff ectively cut off . “We did not have a good fi rst impression about the government’s plans,” recalls Martínez, as a monarch lands on his shoulder. “People were worried.”

Many simply ignored the restrictions, while others organized illegal logging gangs—or “mafias,” as the locals called them—that developed a fearsome reputation. Even after the forests came under federal protection, more than 1,000 acres a year were still being cleared. The

BOARDING PASS To take in the spectacle of las monarcas when they return to their sanctuaries later this year, let United get you there with nonstop service to nearby Mexico City from its U.S. hubs in Chicago, Houston, Denver, L.A., San Francisco, New York/Newarkand Washington, D.C. While at the airport, take the fast track from the curb to the plane with Premier Access. For more information or to book your fl ight, go to united.com.

t, people resented what the nt did,” says Ana Maria Muñiz co-founder of Alternare, a-based none living. “P

sanctuaries later this year, let United get you thCity from its U.S. hubs in Chicago, Houston, Deand W shington, D.C. While at the airport, tak

ion or ter of Alternare, a

nprofi t that promotes People depended on

and WaaWaaaaaaaWaaaaaashington, D.C. While at the airpowith PPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPremier Access. For more informati

p072-075_136HEM0313_butterfly.indd 74p072-075_136HEM0313_butterfly.indd 74 31/01/2013 10:0431/01/2013 10:04


police made arrests. Some locals dug ditches and set fires to deter the chain saw–toting thugs in their communities. There were even calls for a permanent military presence in the area. But the eff orts were nei-ther consistent nor coordinated, and the monarchs’ habitat continued to dwindle.

Then, in 2004, the World Wildlife Fund, which had been struggling to protect the monarchs for more than two decades, proposed a radical solu-tion. Rather than trying to compel people to stop destroying the forests, it said, why not create an environ-ment in which they would want to stop? “We help people understand that, if managed well, these forests could generate a lot of money for all

of them,” explains Eduardo Rendón Salinas, who directs the WWF’s mon-arch program in Mexico. “People have become conscious of the benefi ts of the forest not only to the monarchs, but also to their own lives.”

A GOOD EXAMPLE OF

the change taking hold can be found in the story of

two brothers, Miguel and Salvador Cayetano Contreras. In the indig-enous community of Crescencio Morales, located in a valley below the monarchs’ mountain reserves, the brothers tend to thousands of firs and other pine trees. The sap-lings grow in long, orderly rows in the small field that is home to the subsidized vivero, or nursery, that they set up after returning from a decade working construction in New

York. The idea is that Miguel and Sal-vador will grow trees to replenish the forests that were culled by loggers, while proceeds from the sale of the trees will help protect these same forests in the future. “The project is part of an agreement we made not to cut trees, in exchange for support for the vivero,” says Miguel. “Even though the monarch does not fly here, we benefi t from it.”

Modesta Flores Sánchez is part of a similar program. Behind a simple cinder-block house lined with fl ow-ers, she keeps a small greenhouse full of the mushrooms that she and other members of her ejido have been trained to grow and sell. “This has made things be� er for us,” she says, gesturing at the modest crop

as two of her grandchildren look on. Using public and private donations, the WWF covered the $5,000 startup cost for the mushroom enterprise, and has supported others like it across the reserve area—again, with the aim of drawing people out of the forests and into the fields. Or sometimes the gi� shops.

A great many of the work-creation schemes here have focused on the ecotourism market. The four bu� er-fly sanctuaries open to the public a� ract as many as 150,000 visitors a year, sparking a need for everything from tour guides to food vendors to vigilancia comunitaria, or com-munity surveillance teams, which patrol the reserves and report illegal logging. Still, it was a tough sell. “When the reserve was created, I had to convince

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CONTINUED ON PAGE 136 »

ATTRACTIVE PROSPECTS Opposite, monarchs sheathe a tree in the Sierra Chincua reserve; this page, from top, Javier Martínez Colín, Modesta Flores Sánchez and Marciano Solis Sacarias have all benefi ted from butterfl y-related work-creation eff orts

A BUTTERFLY FLITTERS OVER THE PATH. THEN FIVE, THEN A DOZEN. SOON THE AIR IS THICK WITH THEM, A VIVID SWIRL OF ORANGE AND BLACK.

has made things be�er for us ” sheed well, these forestsa lot of money for all

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THEN FIVE,N. SOON THWITH THEMOF ORANG

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THE , THEN A

HE AIR IS M, A VIVID GE AND BLACK.



HEADING TO LAS VEGAS IN SEARCH OF THIS SEASON’S

MOST WINNING LOOKSPHOTOGRAPHS BY TOMO BREJC • FASHION DIRECTION BY NINO BAUTI

p076-085_HEM0312_FashionVegas.indd 76p076-085_HEM0312_FashionVegas.indd 76 04/02/2013 15:0204/02/2013 15:02

SKIN CITYViktor & Rolf draped bodysuit;

Manolo Blahnik stilettos; Pebble London mirrored bangle;

Anticoa earrings



PUTTING ON THE GLITZ ABOVE LEFT, ON HER: Missoni shirt; Marni embroidered wool shorts; Chanel bag; Manolo Blahnik stilettos; Cutler and Gross sunglasses; Pebble London resin bangle and African-style necklace ON HIM: G-Star Raw shirt; Tommy Hilfi ger jeans; Boot Barn hat and boots; Michael Kors sunglasses; Louis Vuitton luggage

ABOVE RIGHT: Just Cavalli sequin dress and snake cuff watch; Anticoa earrings

OPPOSITE: Just Cavalli dress and watch; Manolo Blahnik stilettos; Pebble London earrings, ring and bangle; Nina Ricci necklace; Roberto Cavalli bracelet; Alexandra DeClaris clutch

(Backdrop for all photos on this spread: Three-Bedroom Duplex at Encore Las Vegas)



PERFECTLY SUITEDRoberto Cavalli embroidered cotton shirt and embroidered silk pants; Casadei shoes; Pebble London bangles; Rolex gold, diamond and opal wristwatch; Anticoa earrings (Three-Bedroom Duplex at Encore Las Vegas)

OPPOSITE: Stella McCartney jacquard jacket and pants, available at Matches; Viktor & Rolf embroidered shirt; Zagliani clutch; Cartier diamond ring; Christopher Kane for Swarovski necklace, available at go-british.co.uk; Roberto Cavalli sunglasses


LEGGING IT OUTMoschino broderie

anglais jumpsuit; Marni jewelry and shoes

(Three-Bedroom Duplex at Encore Las Vegas)

OPPOSITE, ON HER: Peter Pilotto silk tunic, available at Selfridges; Roberto Cavalli pants;

Manolo Blahnik sandals; Marni earrings and

clutch; Cartier diamond watch, bracelets and ring

ON HIM: G-Star Raw shirt; Banana Republic

tee; Levi’s jeans; Boot Barn hat; Paul Smith boots;

Michael Kors sunglasses; Rolex steel wristwatch

(Mizumi at Wynn Las Vegas)



TEAM CREDITS: Fashion assistants Samia Giobellina

and Skye-Maree Dixon; photo assistant Jeremy Rigby;

hair and makeup artist Tyler Colton/Celestine Agency

(using Josie Maran products, available at Sephora); models

Evgenia Sizanyuk/Elite New York City and Derek

Jaeschke/Ford Models Los Angeles; photo retoucher

Rob@happyfi nish.com

SPECIAL THANKS: Wynn Las Vegas & Encore

Resort, The Little White Wedding Chapel and Boot Barn, Las Vegas

BOARDING PASS Get in on the

excitement of a Vegas getaway with United,

which off ers conve-nient daily service from

its U.S. hubs in Los Angeles, San Francisco,

Denver, Houston, Chicago, Cleveland,

New York/Newark and Washington, D.C. Go

to united.com to book your fl ight and get

schedule information.


HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2012 85

THE LOOK OF LOVEON HER: Chanel embellished jacket; American

Apparel metallic leggings; Manolo Blahnik shoes; Cartier diamond ring; Anticoa earrings

ON HIM: Paul Smith jeans; Boot Barn shirt, boots, hat and bolo tie; Dita sunglasses

OPPOSITE, TOP: Antonio Berardi embroidered jacket; Cartier diamond ring; Mawi earrings

OPPOSITE, BELOW, ON HER: Diane von Furstenberg silk dress; Stephen Jones fascinator,

available at go-british.co.uk; Cartier diamond ring; Anticoa earrings; Pebble London bangle

ON HIM: United Colors of Benetton shirt; Paul Smith jeans; Boot Barn hat and bolo tie;

Dita sunglasses, Rolex steel watch

Kf



89DAY ONE

Skiing with snow ghosts, sampling Indian-Canadian fusion cuisine and enjoying a very, very hot coff ee

THREE PERFECT DAYS

KELOWNAThis postcard-perfect lake town is nestled in Canada’s Okanagan Valley, home to more wineries than Walla Walla and be� er snow than Whistler. And you found it fi rst.

BY JACQUELINE DETWILER PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHAEL HANSON

93DAY TWO

Cavorting with enthusiastic sled dogs, climbing a 60-foot tower of ice and indulging in midday s’mores

96DAY THREE

Tasting the fruits of the winemakers’ labor and digging into a superlative local cheeseburger

R1_p086_096_HEM0313_3PD.indd 86R1_p086_096_HEM0313_3PD.indd 86 08/02/2013 09:5208/02/2013 09:52

CREATURE FEATUREStuart Park’s grizzly sculpture evokes Kelowna’s namesake (“kelowna” means “grizzly” in the language of the Okanagan Indians); left, skiing through snow ghosts at Big White



THREE PERFECT DAYS || KELOWNA

WHEN FACED WITH the prospect of describing

Kelowna, a wine making and ski resort town

surrounded by three mountain ranges and a

lake in Canada’s Okana-gan Valley, one is tempted

to rely on juxtaposition: Napa meets Tahoe, Side-

ways meets Dirty Dancing, Ski Party meets Meatballs.

Otherwise, conveying the scope of the place

can be diffi cult. In valleys abu� ing a 68-mile-long

lake fed by crystalline mountain streams sit nearly 30 wineries, 20

golf courses, countless running and biking

trails, and a ski resort with some of the most pillowy powder in the

world. ¶ What the com-parisons fail to capture, however, is that unlike

Napa or Tahoe, Kelowna is a 1,120-square-mile

playground that remains largely untouched by the other kids. You can taste

wines poured by the vint-ners themselves, swoop

down black diamond runs all by yourself and procure a lakeside table

without making reserva-tions a week in advance.

As one local ski instructor puts it, “I think I waited in a li� line for fi ve minutes

... once?” Napa meets Tahoe meets Narnia.

There. That should do it.

WHOA THERE A Candle Creek Kennels pup; right, African beef salad rolls at Carvers

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KELOWNA || THREE PERFECT DAYS

DAY ONE | It’s a powder day when you wake up in your luxury Stonebridge Lodge apartment at Big White Ski Resort, so you don’t bother turning on the fi replace or the hot tub while you toss back a cup of coff ee. You’ve stored your skis and boots in the lockers downstairs, and in less than 15 minutes you’re out the door and hoofi ng it to Beano’s Coff ee Parlor in Big White Village. On the way to breakfast, you accidentally take a step off the path and sink into a snowdri� up to your hip. It’s gonna be a good morning.

With a fortifying ham-egg-and-veggie bagel in hand, you secure the services of a spunky British ski instructor named Fi, and the two of you head for the slopes via the Snow Ghost Express. As you peer out at a panorama of droopy, haphazardly snow-dusted Dr. Seuss trees, the powder comes down so so� ly it gli� ers in the air like a holiday store display. With each hundred-foot rise up

the mountain, the trees gain another layer of snow, until they could be mistaken for contorted yeti reaching up for your feet. These are the fabled “snow ghosts” of Big White, Fi says, and the li� you’re riding is named in their honor.

You soon fi nd out why. Tree skiing is Big White’s showpiece—the fl uff between the trunks is thick and airy, staying so� for weeks. You have so much fun slashing through the snow ghosts that your

quads don’t call for a break until well a� er noon.When they do, you stow your skis and wander over to the west

side of the village, where the après parties are already beginning at the ice bar behind Carvers. Inside, you order a hearty plate of vindaloo poutine, an Indian twist on a French-Canadian classic that combines sweet potato fries, braised lamb and cheese curds. It’s so delicious you wonder why there isn’t an Indian restaurant

WANT MORE? Download our iPad app.

KELOWNA BY THE NUMBERS

POPULATION

179,839

ANNUAL SNOWFALL, IN FEET, AT BIG WHITE SKI RESORT

24½

LONGEST SKI RUN, IN MILES, AT BIG WHITE

4½(“AROUND THE WORLD” ROUTE)

YEAR THAT KELOWNA’S FIRST VINEYARD WAS PLANTED

1859

NUMBER OF WINE TRAILS

5

NUMBER OF NHL PLAYERS WHO HAVE VACATION HOMES IN KELOWNA

75

AGE RANGE OF PLAYERS ON THE ROCKETS (KELOWNA’S WHL TEAM)

15–20

AMOUNT OF DRY FOOD, IN TONS, CONSUMED BY SLED DOGS AT

CANDLE CREEK KENNELS ANNUALLY

3 (PLUS 3 TONS OF CHICKEN)



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HOW ’BOUT THEM APPLES?Canada’s fruit basket sees the fi rst non-browning varieties

The Okanagan Valley’s moder-ate climate and rich silt are a boon for more than just winemakers. Since the S&O Railway arrived in 1892, the area around Kelowna has been one of the most important agricultural regions in British Columbia, par-ticularly in terms of fruit. Today, the Okanagan provides Canada with 75 percent of its apricots, 40 percent of its cherries and 20 percent of its peaches, plums, pears and apples.

Now a local agriculture biotech fi rm called Okanagan Specialty Fruits has upped the ante. By modifying the gene that produces polyphenol oxidase (the enzyme that makes sliced apples turn brown), the company has created the world’s fi rst non-browning apple, dubbed the Arctic. Reactions have been mixed: Some worry that con-sumers may be nervous about genetically modifi ed apples; others say the breakthrough will encourage people to eat more pre-sliced fruit instead of fries or chips. With government approval pending, the fate of the Arctic apple is uncertain, but the folks at Specialty Fruits remain bullish. “If it’s successful,” company president Neal Carter said last year, “all the big guys will be piling in to be second.”

on every ski mountain; in fact, you ponder the fi nancial viability of such a venture while skiing circles around snow ghosts the rest of the a� ernoon. When the light fi nally starts to fade, you call it a day and return to Stonebridge for a shower.

Warmly clad in an abundance of fl an-nel, you walk back into the village to fi nd a lively crowd at The BullWheel, a sporty burger bar with hockey on several TVs. You’ve heard the bit about Canadians being friendly, but here the patrons are so personable that within minutes nearly everyone at the bar has leaned in to smell the maple-finished Crown Royal you’re drinking. “I think they age it in maple syrup barrels?” ventures one patron as a friendly debate erupts about how it’s made. (A quick check with

Google shows that it is fi nished in maple-toasted oak barrels.)

Before long, The BullWheel’s famously gregarious and well-traveled manager, Al, is regaling the assembled company with the story of the time he drove a three-wheeled mototaxi across the Peruvian Andes (the jersey Al wore on said trip, along with a few of his other sartorial artifacts, can be found on the bar’s walls). Although you would love to stay and hear more, your stomach has started grumbling. So you take a gondola over to Kettle Valley Steakhouse, where your waiter suggests a local wine to pair with a 1½-inch cowboy-cut rib steak in Mada-gascar peppercorn sauce. The result is a meal befi � ing someone who skied 20,000 vertical feet today (namely, you).

LOCAL FLAVOR Two kinds of lamb with potato “doughnuts” at Waterfront; opposite,

clockwise from top left, putting on a show at the Gunbarrel Grill; dining at RauDZ; an après cocktail at Kettle Valley Steakhouse;

the cellars at Mission Hill Family Estate

FAIREST OF THEM ALL? The non-browning Arctic apple


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Because skiers are notoriously early to rise—and therefore early to drink—it’s still barely evening when you’ve fi nished eating. There’s no way you’re ge� ing to bed without a nightcap. You opt for the legendary Gunbarrel Coffee—decaf, of course—at the Gunbarrel Grill. Working from a cart in what looks like the lodge of an exceptionally talented hunting family, your waiter heats a sugar-rimmed glass and fi lls it with brandy, coff ee and cream, then pours flaming Grand Mar-nier down the barrel of a shotgun into your drink. The other patrons clap in awe as this process is completed; within minutes, similar carts bearing shotguns appear at many of their tables. Launch-ing the evening’s drinking festivities, you decide, is enough of an accomplishment to merit hanging up your ski beanie for the day.

DAY TWO | Your legs are screaming from yesterday’s powderfest, so you skip the hill and sleep in awhile before strolling over to Santé for a leisurely breakfast of eggs Benedict with smoked salmon and capers. A� er that, you’re off to see a man about 31 dogs.

The man’s name is Tim, and the dogs are Alaskan huskies. As the proprietors of Candle Creek Kennels, Tim and wife Kerry have adopted a passel of mu� s that didn’t quite make Iditarod teams, in addition to other unwanted sled dogs from all over British Columbia. While Tim selects the dogs for today’s ride, it becomes clear that the energetic pups still really enjoy pulling sleds, Iditarod or no. They hop on top of their doghouses, bark, roll around on the ground and chomp mouthfuls of snow. Once roped in, the eight lucky winners pull you on a zippy three-mile loop through a

SLOPE AND GLORY Carving through the trees at Big White; below right, nachos with

all the fi xings at The BullWheel




Kim DillabaughASSISTANT COACH, KELOWNA ROCKETS

HOCKEY TEAM

“There’s a pub-ish restaurant downtown called Sturgeon Hall. It’s about two

blocks from Prospera Place [where the Rockets play], so people go there to have

dinner before the game.”

solemn pine wood—and even pose for pictures before you grudgingly take your leave.

On your way back to the gondola, you can’t help but notice what looks like a 60-foot, powder-blue frozen waterfall. You stop into a nearby warming shed to ask what it’s for, and find yourself quickly outfitted with crampons, a harness and a pair of pickaxes. Jim, a certifi ed climbing guide with almost four decades’ experience, hooks you into a top rope as he informs you that this is Big White’s Ice Climbing Tower. “Just, uh, climb it?” you say, and Jim nods as if scaling a six-story column of ice is the easiest thing in the world. Ten agonizing minutes later, you actually reach the top and, with your pickax, ring a small bell that hangs there. You think your back may punish you for this later, but you’ve earned some mighty impressive pictures.

To celebrate, you take the gondola to Globe, a petite tapas joint known for having the best coff ee on the mountain. There you scarf down a sandwich of Italian charcuterie followed by a set of s’mores, which arrive alongside a fl ame for roasting the house-made marshmallows.

In a sugary fog, you bid farewell to Big White and drive down into the town of Kelowna itself, where you check into the lake-front Hotel Eldorado. Your room reminds you of a boathouse, with antiqued wood fl oors, cozy cream linens and the occasional paddle mounted on the wall. Still a bit chilled, you’re immediately drawn to the programmable whirlpool tub in an alcove with waterfront windows (covered with white wooden slats, adjustable for privacy). Dinner, you decide, can wait an hour.

OK, maybe a li� le more than an hour. You eventually amble downtown to Waterfront, a restaurant and wine bar whose chef, Mark Filatow, is one of the few in Canada who are also members of the prestigious Sommelier Guild. With his help, you order a round of creamy Pacifi c oysters, braised pork–stuff ed ravioli in white wine and pance� a cream, and a bu� ery duck breast with mushroom and spaetzle sauté paired with glasses of spectacular local riesling and pinot noir. A waiter arrives with a dessert menu, but—a� er two days of skiing, ice climbing and dogsledding—you’re spent. You head back to the hotel and reluc-tantly close the slats.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE THE INSIDE SCOOP FROM THOSE IN THE KNOW ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER JAMES FIELD

Valaura VedanCONTENT MANAGER/EDITOR,

WELCOMETOKELOWNA.COM

“I love the Grateful Fed. It’s a pub, but an almost insanely small one. They just started an acoustic jam session on Saturdays. How they

fi t a band in there, I’ll never know.”

Alyn NashSNOW PRO, BIG WHITE

SKI & BOARD SCHOOL

“The Crawford Trails at Myra-Bellevue Provincial Park are fantastic for

mountain biking. They’re 10 minutes outside of town, but you might not see anyone there apart from your friends.”

CLASSICS ROCK Browsing rare books at Pulp Fiction Coff ee House


HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • MARCH 2013 • MAP BY STEVE STANKIEWICZ 95


DAY ONEStonebridge Lodge 5257 Big White Rd.; Tel. 250-765-8888Beano’s Coff ee Parlor Village Centre Mall; Tel. 250-491-3558Carvers Inn at Big White; Tel. 250-491-2009The BullWheel Whitefoot Lodge; Tel. 250-765-6551Kettle Valley Steakhouse Happy Valley Day Lodge; Tel. 250-491-0130Gunbarrel Grill Snowshoe Sam’s; Tel. 250-765-1416

DAY TWOSanté White Crystal Inn; Tel. 250-491-8122Candle Creek Kennels Big White Ski Resort; Tel. 250-491-6111Ice Climbing Tower Big White Ski Resort; Tel. 250-491-6111Globe Trappers Crossing; Tel. 250-765-1501 Hotel Eldorado 500 Cook Rd.; Tel. 250-763-7500Waterfront 1180 Sunset Dr.; Tel. 250-979-1222

DAY THREEPulp Fiction Coff ee House 1598 Pandosy St.; Tel. 778-484-7444Olive & Elle 1585 Pandosy St.; Tel. 250-862-2778Quails’ Gate 3303 Boucherie Rd.; Tel. 250-769-4451Mission Hill Family Estate 1730 Mission Hill Rd.; Tel. 250-768-7611RauDZ 1560 Water St.; Tel. 250-868-8805

0 1 mile

DAY ONEDAY TWODAY THREE

O k a n a g a n L a k e

E. Boundary Rd.

Stevens Rd.

Hwy. 97

Westlake Rd.

Park

inso

n Rd

.

William R. Bennett Bridge

Clement Ave.G

ordon Dr.

Richter St.

Pandosy St.Hwy. 97

Rose Ave.

K.L.O. Rd.

Casorso Rd.

Bouc

herie

Rd.

Hwy. 97

Hotel Eldorado

Waterfront

Pulp Fiction Coffee House Olive & Elle

Quails’ Gate

Mission Hill Family Estate

RauDZ

Kelowna - 39 miles

Big White Rd.

Big White Rd.

Stonebridge Lodge

CarversBeano’s Coffee Parlor

The BullWheel

Kettle Valley Steakhouse

GunbarrelGrill Santé

Candle Creek Kennels

Ice Climbing Tower

Globe

BIG WHITE SKI RESORT




DAY THREE | It’s a struggle to leave the view from your room at the Eldorado,but seeing all the boats in their slips reminds you that Kelowna has free Sunday parking, so you drive down-town to check out the shops. On Pandosy Street, you stumble uponPulp Fiction Coff ee House, which provides you with a crumbly blueberry “scrumpet”

and a creamy cappuccino to enjoy as you flip through covers of racy 1950s dime-store novels. Across the street is the winsome boutique Olive & Elle, where you pick up some French-style soaps and red plaid fl annel blankets as gi� s.

Outside, you meet up with a local who’s agreed to drive you around for the a� ernoon. You’re planning to visit a few of

Kelowna’s famous wineries, and you want to be able to taste as much as you like. The fi rst stop is Quails’ Gate, a homey oak-and-brick aff air with a roaring fi replace and a tasting room overlooking the vines in their ranks. A friendly attendant pours you some delicate riesling and a rich, spicy pinot noir. Another specialty, you learn, is the Quails’ Gate chenin blanc, which was served to President Obama on his first visit to Canada, in 2009. You order a glass with your lunch of crab cakes and parsnip soup in the winery’s restaurant.

Next up: Mission Hill Family Estate, a grand Mediterranean-inspired hilltop palazzo. With vines located in fi ve pockets all over the Okanagan Valley, Mission Hill can make anything from supremely light viogniers to heady bordeaux blends. You ask for a representative sample and then beeline it to the capacious courtyard to enjoy the view.

After returning to the Eldorado and indulging in a lengthy nap, you’re off to dinner at RauDZ, a restaurant that focuses on the bounty of the Okanagan, histori-cally the breadbasket of British Columbia. You settle on venison carpaccio with apples and walnuts, and a veggie-stacked cheeseburger the size of your head. A� er all that wine, you’re thinking you might try something diff erent to drink. Luckily, bartender Gerry Jobe has just the thing: the whiskey old-fashioned that won him the gold in a recent cocktail competition.

As he stands at your table fi lling a lan-tern with chocolate and tobacco smoke in preparation for mixing your cocktail, you marvel at the amount of time he’s spending on you. Come to think of it, you didn’t even make a reservation.

You wonder if the other kids really need to know that this particular playground exists. You take a sip of your cocktail. Let them have Whistler.

Brooklyn-based Hemispheres senior editor JACQUELINE DETWILER thinks New York City is like a giant playground that all the other kids have discovered.

BOARDING PASS From its many wineries, inviting shops and delicious eateries to its adventure-ready mountains and pristine lake, the town of Kelowna, British Columbia, epitomizes year-round appeal. United can take you nonstop from Los Angeles to Kelowna, or fl y you to Vancouver (a not-too-lengthy drive away) from Los Angeles, San Francisco, Houston, Denver and Chicago, plus seasonal service from New York/Newark and Washington, D.C. Before boarding, consider purchasing a day pass to relax in a spacious United Club; memberships are also available. For detailed schedule information or to book your fl ight, go to united.com.

SHIPSHAPE At the lakeside getaway Hotel Eldorado


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34672_John_Hopkins_University 1pp.indd 134672_John_Hopkins_University 1pp.indd 1 28/01/2013 15:0128/01/2013 15:01

Executive EducationHEMISPHERES SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION l l MARCH 2013

IF THERE’S ONE THING to be sure of in today’s business world, it’s that nothing can be taken for granted. Thanks to the accelerating developments in technology over the last 20 years, the global business community has become a much smaller and much faster place. Flourishing in such an environment requires smart professionals to do whatever it takes to get on and to stay on the right track. It’s no longer good enough to just keep up—you need to stay ahead. The job marketplace is currently weighted heavily in the favor of employers and they know it, which puts you at a distinct disadvantage. And we’re not just referring to those looking for jobs. Even those with jobs are at a disadvantage. If you want to get ahead and stay ahead, rising stars must be prepared to keep learning. Bachelor’s degrees

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volumes to your employer. This type of commitment will usually help in the areas of job security, pay raises and even promotions. It’s never been easier. Many schools even offer online learning options that make the whole thing quite simple. Other bricks and mortar programs may have multiple campuses or offer evening and weekend classes to accommodate the professionals. The following pages showcase a variety

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100 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • MARCH 2013 EXECUTIVE EDUCATION MARKETPLACE

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?

Entertainment & InformationENTERTAINMENT106 DIRECTV®108 Film & Television112 Audio Programming114 Crossword116 Sudoku

INFORMATION119 Route Maps124 Customs & Immigration125 Our Fleet126 Terminal Diagrams130 Safety & Travel Assistance132 MileagePlus133 Alliances & Partnerships144 Food & Beverages

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DIRECTV®ENTERTAINMENT

What you want to watch

OVER 100 CHANNELS You can get more than 100 of your favorite TV channels. From big movies to sports to family programming, we have the best in entertainment.

MOVIES Choose from a lineup of top Hollywood fi lms, including director Ang Lee’s critically acclaimed adaptation of Yann Martel’s bestselling novel, Life of Pi (left); the behind-the-scenes biopic Hitchcock (right); the Steven Spielberg–directed opus Lincoln; plus Cloud Atlas, Peter Pan, Wreck-It Ralph, Argo and Chasing Mavericks. Or, browse for movies on live TV.

SATELLITE COVERAGE AREASince the programming is live from DIRECTV®, a fl ight may take you out of the satellite coverage area. If this happens, prerecorded TV shows and movies will still be available.

HOW TO USE1. Swipe your card* to begin.2. Select your channel or movie and start watching.3. Listen using your own headset or feel free to use the complimentary headset provided onboard. Your purchase is good for the entire fl ight, even when the aircraft door is open before takeoff , and you can turn the TV on and off throughout your fl ight.* MasterCard, Visa, American Express or Discover accepted.TV and movies are complimentary in fi rst class.

Exact channel numbers and programming schedules are subject to change. DIRECTV® service is not available on fl ights outside the continental United States. The signal may be lost in turbulence and/or if banking of the aircraft is required. DIRECTV® and United Airlines are not responsible for interruptions of service that are beyond our control including, without limitation, acts of nature, power failure or any other cause. ©2013 DIRECTV® Inc. DIRECTV® and the Cyclone Design logo are registered trademarks of DIRECTV® Inc. All other trademarks and service marks are the property of their respective owners.

DIRECTV® IN FLIGHT allows you to select from more than 100 channels of live television along with a full slate of blockbuster Hollywood movies, sitcoms and dramas. Purchase DIRECTV® and stay entertained for your entire fl ight.

Available on select 737 and 757 aircraft

Your favorite TV channelsA&E 265ABC FAMILY 311ANIMAL 282BBCA 264BeIN 620BET 329BIG 10 610BIO 266BLOOMBERG 353BOOM 298BRAVO 237CARTOON 296CBS 390CENTRIC 330CHILLER 257CLOO 308CMT 327CNBC 355CNN 202COMEDY 249COOK 232C-SPAN 350C-SPAN2 351CW 394DEST 286DISCOVERY 278

DISNEY 290DISNEY JR. 289DISNEY XD 292DIY 230E! 236ESPN 206ESPN CLASSIC 614ESPN2 209ESPNEWS 207ESPNU 208FOOD 231FOX 398FOX BUSINESS 359FOX MOVIE 258FOX NEWS 360FOX SOCCER 619FUEL 618FX 248GALA 404GOLF 218GOSPEL 338GSN 233H2 271HALLMARK 312HGTV 229HISTORY 269

HLN 204HUB 294INVESTIGATION 285LEARNING 280LIFETIME 252LIFETIME MOVIE 253LINK 375MILITARY 287MLB NETWORK 213MSNBC 356MTV 331MTV2 333NAT GEO 276NBC 392NBC SPORTS 220NFL NETWORK 212NICK 299NICK JR. 301NICK TOON 302NRB 378OUTDOOR 606OVATION 274OXYGEN 251RED ZONE 703REELZ 238RURAL TV 345

SCIENCE 284SOAP 262SPEED 607SPIKE 241SPORTSMAN 605STYLE 235SYFY 244TBS 247TEEN NICK 303TENNIS 217TNT 245TRAVEL 277TRUTV 246TURNER MOVIE 256TV GUIDE 273TV LAND 304TVG 602TWC 362UNI SPORTS 625UNIVISION 402USA 242VH1 335VH1 CLASSIC 337WGN 307WORD 373

GROUP DISCOUNT

Traveling with family or friends?

Swipe the same card on three or more

screens and receive $2 off each purchase.

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We make our members feel like VIPswherever they are in the world.

With my Gold Status I feel like one too,from being the first to check in,to being the first to take my seat on the plane. I’ve earned it.

Fiona Foxon – Global Brand Ambassador to the Quintessentially Group,and Star All iance Gold Status.

staralliance.com

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Films DOMESTIC AND INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS WILL SHOW THE FOLLOWING MOVIES

EASTBOUND WESTBOUND

NORTH AMERICA

MAR.1-15 Hitchcock [T] Skyfall [T]

MAR.16-31 Silver Linings Playbook [T] Life of Pi

HAWAII

MAR.1-15 Silver Linings Playbook [T] Life of Pi

MAR.16-31 Hitchcock [T] Skyfall [T]

SOUTHBOUND NORTHBOUND

LATIN AMERICA & CARIBBEAN

MAR.1-15 Skyfall [T] Hitchcock [T]

MAR.16-31 Life of Pi Silver Linings Playbook [T]

Film & TelevisionENJOY THESE MOVIES AND SHOWS ON THE MAIN SCREEN

FILMS ARE SHOWN on fl ights of three hours or longer. Movies are available on most 737, 747, 757, 767, 777, A319 and A320 aircraft fl ights. Schedules and selections are subject to change. En el canal 10 encontrará películas y programas de televisión disponibles en Español.

ENTERTAINMENT

Television SELECT FLIGHTS MAY FEATURE THE FOLLOWING TELEVISION PROGRAMMING

Go OnNew Girl [T]Shark Tank

Ultimate Aquariums

How I Met Your Mother [T]Man Caves

Parks and Recreation [T]The Mentalist [T]

The Big Bang Theory [T]Up All Night

ChoppedAuction Kings

Two and a Half Men [T]The Offi ce [T]

In Vogue: The Editor’s Eye [T]Pawn Stars

[T] = Adult themes

• Flights between Chicago or Denver and Hawaii will show both fi lms.• Select fi lms are shown on fl ights within Micronesia and on intra-Asia fl ights on 737 and 777 aircraft.

Wi-Fi updateWi-Fi installations have begun on select aircraft, and we are working with our partners to complete certifi cations for additional aircraft types. We plan to have more than 300 aircraft fl ying with Wi-Fi by the end of this year, and more than 500 by the end of 2014. Follow our installation progress at united.com/wifi.

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MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED for airline use. However, customer discretion is still advised. Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to help our customers decide whether to view a fi lm.

CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME to view their own video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as they are able to show that the programming has an MPAA rating of “R” or less.

WHAT DO YOU THINK of our programming? We’re open to suggestions. Please send them to [email protected] or visit united.com/play.

Hitchcock [T]Set during the making of Alfred Hitchcock’s seminal thriller, Psycho, this biopic focuses on the true love story of the hugely infl uential British suspense director and his wife and longtime creative partner, Alma Reville.FEATURING Anthony Hopkins, Helen MirrenDIRECTED BY Sacha Gervasi

Silver Linings Playbook [T]After a stint in a mental institution, Pat wants nothing more than to get his old life back, including reuniting with his estranged wife. Then Pat meets Tiff any, a mysterious girl with problems of her own, and things get complicated.FEATURING Jennifer Lawrence, Bradley CooperDIRECTED BY David O. Russell

Life of PiMarooned on a lifeboat in the middle of the ocean after escaping a sinking cargo ship, a young Indian man named Pi forms an unexpected connection with one of the ship’s other survivors, a fearsome Bengal tiger. FEATURING Suraj Sharma, Irrfan Khan, Adil HussainDIRECTED BY Ang Lee

Skyfall [T]Superspy James Bond fi nds his loyalties tested when the past comes back to haunt his boss, M. But as MI6 itself comes under attack, 007 must track down and destroy the threat, no matter how personal the cost.FEATURING Daniel Craig, Judi Dench, Javier BardemDIRECTED BY Sam Mendes

1 hr. 38 min.

2 hr.1 min.

2 hr. 2 hr.

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Film & TelevisionTHE FOLLOWING FILMS ARE AVAILABLE ON INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS

(G) German(J) Japanese (C) Chinese(K) Korean

B747 Mainscreen Programming

FROM U.S. TO U.S.

U.K.

Hitchcock [T] 1 hr., 38 min.Silver Linings Playbook [T] 2 hr.

2 hr.Alex Cross [T] 1 hr., 39 min.

2 hr.

Skyfall [T] 2 hr.Life of Pi 2 hr., 1 min.

2 hr.Here Comes the Boom 1 hr., 45 min.

2 hr.

GERMANY

Hitchcock (G) [T] 1 hr., 38 min.Silver Linings Playbook (G) [T] 2 hr.

2 hr.Alex Cross (G) [T] 1 hr., 39 min.Chasing Mavericks (G) 1 hr., 56 min.

2 hr.

Skyfall (G) [T] 2 hr.Life of Pi (G) 2 hr., 1 min.

2 hr.Here Comes the Boom (G) 1 hr., 45 min.Wreck-It Ralph (G) 1 hr., 41 min.

2 hr.

AUSTRALIA

Skyfall [T] 2 hr.2 hr.

Life of Pi 2 hr., 1 min.2 hr.

Here Comes the Boom 1 hr., 45 min.Wreck-It Ralph 1 hr., 41 min.

2 hr.

Hitchcock [T] 1 hr., 38 min.2 hr.

Silver Linings Playbook [T] 2 hr.2 hr.

Alex Cross [T] 1 hr., 39 min.Chasing Mavericks 1 hr., 56 min.

2 hr.

JAPAN &SOUTH KOREA

Skyfall (J, K) [T] 2 hr.2 hr.

Life of Pi (J, K) 2 hr., 1 min.2 hr.

Here Comes the Boom (J, K) 1 hr., 45 min.Wreck-It Ralph (K) 1 hr., 41 min.

2 hr.

Hitchcock (J, K) [T] 1 hr., 38 min.2 hr.

Silver Linings Playbook (J, K) [T] 2 hr.2 hr.

Alex Cross (J, K) [T] 1 hr., 39 min.Chasing Mavericks (J, K) 1 hr., 56 min.

2 hr.

CHINA & HONG KONG

Skyfall (C) [T] 2 hr.2 hr.

Life of Pi (C) 2 hr., 1 min.2 hr.

Here Comes the Boom (C) 1 hr., 45 min.Wreck-It Ralph (C) 1 hr., 41 min.

2 hr.

Hitchcock (C) [T] 1 hr., 38 min.2 hr.

Silver Linings Playbook (C) [T] 2 hr.2 hr.

Alex Cross (C) [T] 1 hr., 39 min.Chasing Mavericks (C) 1 hr., 56 min.

2 hr.

FROM JAPAN TO JAPAN

THAILAND, TAIWAN &SINGAPORE*THAILAND AND SINGAPORE FLIGHTS ONLY

Trouble With the Curve (J, C) [T] 1 hr., 51 min.The Words* (C) [T] 1 hr., 37 min.

2 hr.

Pitch Perfect (J, C) [T] 1 hr., 52 min.Arbitrage* (J, C) [T] 1 hr., 47 min.

2 hr.

ENTERTAINMENT INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE TRACKS (G) Synchronisierte Versionen finden Sie auf Kanal 2 und 3 (wenn verfügbar). (J) 日本語の吹き替えはチャンネル2番および３番でお聴きいただけます。（一部英語音声のみとなります。） (C) 如果可用，在第2频道和第3频道将提供语言录音 (K) 채널 2,3에서 더빙버전이 제공됩니다

2 hr. = Two-hour block of television[T] = Adult themes



Trouble With the Curve [T]To avoid being forced out of the job he loves, an aging baseball scout must rely on his estranged daughter for help.FEATURING Clint Eastwood, Amy Adams, John Goodman DIRECTED BY Robert Lorenz

Wreck-It RalphA reluctant video-game villain attempts to become a hero, only to fi nd he’s unleashed chaos in the arcade.VOICES BY John C. Reilly, Jack McBrayer, Jane LynchDIRECTED BY Rich Moore

1 hr.51 min.

1 hr. 41 min.

Here Comes the BoomAs school cutbacks loom, biology instructor Scott Voss raises money by becoming a mixed martial arts fi ghter.FEATURING Kevin James, Salma Hayek, Henry WinklerDIRECTED BY Frank Coraci

Pitch Perfect [T]Campus newcomer Beca leads her school’s singing group in a bid to rule the cutthroat world of college a cappella.FEATURING Anna Kendrick, Brittany Snow, Rebel WilsonDIRECTED BY Jason Moore

1 hr.45 min.

1 hr.52 min.

Alex Cross [T]A D.C. homicide detective is pushed to his psychological and moral limits when a diabolical foe hits close to home.FEATURING Tyler Perry, Matthew Fox, Rachel NicholsDIRECTED BY Rob Cohen

Chasing MavericksAided by a veteran surfer, a teen embarks on a quest to ride some of the biggest and most dangerous waves in the world.FEATURING Gerard Butler, Jonny Weston, Elisabeth ShueDIRECTED BY Michael Apted and Curtis Hanson

1 hr. 39 min.

1 hr.56 min.

DIGITAL MEDIA LOADING occurs between the 25th of one month and the 5th of the following month. As a result, please understand if your fl ight features a diff erent lineup before or after the start of each month.



Audio Programming

ENTERTAINMENT

Audio Mixes

Featuring songs by Roy Orbison, Cream, Fleetwood Mac and more

Featuring songs by Meat Loaf, Toto, Cheap Trick and more

Featuring songs by Duran Duran, Tiff any, Starship and more

Featuring songs by Brian Eno, Enya, Runestone and more

Featuring compositions performed by orchestras from New York to Stuttgart

Featuring songs by Martina McBride, Trace Adkins, Toby Keith and more

Featuring Chinese popular music including cantopop and mandopop

Featuring a chronology of songs by John Lennon

Featuring songs by DJ Fresh, David Guetta, Duck Sauce and more

Featuring songs by Joss Stone, Snow Patrol, Josh Groban and more

Featuring songs by Ella Fitzgerald, Julie London, George Benson and more

Featuring songs by Exile, AKB48, Sukima Switch and more

Featuring songs by Elvis Presley, Bobby Darin, the Shirelles and more

Featuring songs by Adele, Beyoncé, Lady Gaga and more

Featuring songs by Miley Cyrus, Justin Bieber, Selena Gomez and more

Download the complete playlist at www.united.com/play.

Featuring songs by Super Junior, Girls’ Generation and Wonder Girls

Featuring songs by Johnny Pacheco, Sergio Mendes and more

Featuring songs by Paramore, Foo Fighters, Sublime With Rome and more

Featuring songs by Akon, Jordin Sparks, John Legend and more

Podcasts Stimulate your curiosity and learn something new during your fl ight. Some of the most engaging content from American Public Media™ and Quick and Dirty Tips™ is now available on aircraft with personal on-demand entertainment. Tune in and enjoy! Note: May be listed under “All music” on some aircraft.

p112-113_HEM0313_Audio.indd 112p112-113_HEM0313_Audio.indd 112 31/01/2013 10:1931/01/2013 10:19


Audio Channels by Aircra�

CHANNEL 777 SELECT A320

A319 & A320 747 737

& 757-300 757 & 767

1 Movie(English)

Movie(English)

Movie(English)

Movie(English)

Movie(English)

Movie(English)

2 Today’s hits Today’s hits Today’s hits Movie(Dubbed) Today’s hits Today’s hits

3 R&B R&B R&B Movie(Dubbed) R&B R&B

4 Classical ’60s Classical Classical Classical Classical

5 Country Country Country Country Country Country

6 ’60s Classical — ’60s ’60s ’60s

7 ’70s ’70s — ’70s ’70s ’70s

8 ’80s ’80s — ’80s ’80s ’80s

9 From the fl ight deck

From the fl ight deck

From the fl ight deck

From the fl ight deck or R&B —

From the fl ight deck or Modern rock

10 Movie(Dubbed)

Movie(Dubbed)

Movie(Dubbed) Today’s hits Movie

(Dubbed)Movie

(Dubbed)

11 Modern rock Modern rock ’60s Teen pop Modern rock —

12 Latin Latin ’70s K-popLatin or J-pop on Micronesia

fl ights—

13 Dance Dance ’80s J-pop — —

14 Ambient Ambient Modern rock C-pop — —

15 Artist spotlight Artist spotlight Artist spotlight — — —

16 Jazz — — — — —

17 J-pop — — — — —

18 Easy listening — — — — —

19 Teen pop — — — — —

CHANNEL 9 Listen for your fl ight number to hear live communication between the fl ight deck and FAA air traffi c control. This feature, unique to United, may not be available on all fl ights, including oceanic crossings with limited audio communication. Available at your captain’s discretion.

p112-113_HEM0313_Audio.indd 113p112-113_HEM0313_Audio.indd 113 31/01/2013 10:2031/01/2013 10:20

ACROSS 1 Skedaddled 5 Elbow’s site 8 ___ de Triomphe 11 Prelude to a duel 15 Bouquet tosser 16 Agonizing 18 Back biter 20 Events, happenings, etc. 21 Italian dish cooked with

broth 22 Online newsgroup

system 24 Foot part 25 Day to remember 26 Prod 28 Expert 29 Flood preventer (U.K. var.) 30 Electrifying swimmer 32 Live 35 Summary 37 Enrich 39 Propose 41 Characteristic carrier 42 Pal 45 Place to hibernate 47 Exhausted 49 Tell tales 51 Casino wheel game 53 Fable’s message 55 Wrangler alternative 56 Outfi t 57 Lowlife 59 Off ering to the church 64 Hardened 65 Governor’s domain 66 Yacht 67 Reason for overtime 68 Tucked in 70 Campfi re off ering,

perhaps 72 Lash mark 73 “Aero” or “para” fi nish 74 Feudal slave 75 Once more 76 Road crew supply 77 South Carolina’s

state tree 79 Cut corners 80 Gilbert and Sullivan title

character 83 Bonanza fi nd 84 Psycho setting

86 Dashboard display 88 Parsnip, e.g. 92 Peel 93 Glazier’s item 94 Outward fl ow 95 Be a monarch 96 In the country 98 Snafu 100 Take down a peg 102 Swan Lake, e.g. 105 Operative 106 Slacken 110 Film director’s cry 111 Complain 113 Plaster base 115 Candy treat 117 Stereo setting 119 Dwell on 122 Laughable 123 Water nymph 124 Steel source 125 One in a gaggle 126 “Render ___ Caesar ...” 127 Bill 128 Traffi c stopper 129 Dry as dust

DOWN 1 Search for arms 2 Doorframe support 3 Barely beat 4 “___ Housewives” 5 Tax-fi ling month 6 Police action 7 Scrooge 8 Back 9 Same old, same old 10 Sun blockers 11 Very pleased with

oneself 12 Winner’s victim 13 Hearty brew 14 Nostrum 15 Scrawny 17 Mr. Potato Head

accessory 19 Take back 20 “___ not!” 23 Portable dwelling 27 Harness strap 31 Polish language 33 Future fungus 34 Wee bit

36 Everglades wader 38 Watchful 40 Soapmaker’s need 42 Lingerie buy 43 Nonsense 44 Surpass in the market 46 Road stop convenience 47 Suffi x with “black”

or “silver” 48 Many a sitcom mom

of yore 50 Harvest 52 Told a whopper 54 Tot’s treat 58 Bringing up the rear 60 Blessing 61 Go over again 62 Fix a squeak

63 Safety device 65 Seasoned sailor 66 Lambaste 68 Nile reptile 69 Fluff y accessory 70 Celestial streaker 71 Like a gymnast 72 Boat trailer? 74 Dustin Hoff man fi lm 76 Life’s partner 78 Customs 79 Hold off 80 Fat cat 81 Cotillion girl 82 Globe 85 It’s worn by some Libras 87 Like many a cellar 88 Plot of land

89 Tigers’ school 90 Mesa relative 91 Oompah maker 97 Lewis Carroll critter 99 High-tech detector 101 Showy display 103 Flair 104 Small drum with a fi fe 105 Rip up 107 Bad treatment 108 Hot under the collar 109 Conclusion 112 Fix up 114 Dashed 116 Double-reed instrument 118 Coal container 120 Ballpark fi g. 121 High return

ENTERTAINMENT


CRO

SSW

ORD

© P

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ALL THEME CLUES ARE IN BOLDIf you fi ll in the crossword, please take the magazine with you so it’s replaced.Answers on page 64Crossword

SHADES OF WHITEBY GREG BRUCE

R1_p114-116_HEM0313_Puzzles.indd 114R1_p114-116_HEM0313_Puzzles.indd 114 08/02/2013 09:4308/02/2013 09:43

SmileTexas™ was created a decade ago to

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ENTERTAINMENT


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SudokuTHE NUMBERS GAMEBY REIKO MCLAUGHLIN

p114-116_HEM0313_Puzzles.indd 116p114-116_HEM0313_Puzzles.indd 116 06/02/2013 10:4406/02/2013 10:44


Taking high tech to new altitudes.

Take it up a notch with the United app. Purchase tickets, check in, and see your flightstatus all with the touch of a finger. Plus, you can monitor and choose to have automaticflight status updates sent directly to your mobile device, and much more.

Make the United app youron-the-go travel center.

Scan to download our app

No.00000 Taking High Tech 1pp.indd 1No.00000 Taking High Tech 1pp.indd 1 06/02/2013 09:5606/02/2013 09:56

1:00 pm

2:00 pm 3:00 pm 4:00 pm 5:00 pm

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11:00 pm10:00 pm8:00 pm

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5:30

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3:305:00

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1:00

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World time zones shown in Standard Time.

10:00 am

1:00 pm

12:00 MIDNIGHT

MIDNIGHT

12:00 SUN.

2:00 pm

Inte

rnat

iona

l Dat

e L

ine

1:00 am

PACIFIC OCEAN

ARCTIC OCEANARCTIC OCEAN

INDIAN OCEAN

INDIAN OCEAN

ATLANTIC OCEAN

Arabian Sea

Caspian Sea

Black Sea

Hudson Bay

South ChinaSea

CoralSea

TasmanSea

Mediterranean SeaOkayama

KENYA

ETHIOPIA

ERITREA

SUDAN

SOUTH SUDAN

EGYPT

NIGERMAURITANIA

MALI

NIGERIA

SOMALIA

NAMIBIA

LIBYA

CHAD

SOUTH AFRICA

TANZANIA

CONGO

ANGOLA

ALGERIA

MADAGASCAR

MOZAMBIQUE

BOTSWANA

ZAMBIA

GABON

CENTRAL AFRICANREPUBLIC

TUNISIA

MOROCCO

UGANDA

SWAZILAND

LESOTHO

MALAWI

BURUNDIRWANDA

TOGOBENIN

LIBERIA

SIERRA LEONE

GUINEA

BURKINA FASO

GAMBIA

CAMEROON

SAO TOME& PRINCIPE

ZIMBABWE

DEM. REP. CONGO

EQUATORIAL GUINEA

WESTERN SAHARA

DJIBOUTI

SENEGAL

GUINEA BISSAU

CANARY ISLANDS

COMOROS

GHANA

TURKEY

CYPRUS

JORDAN

ISRAEL

LEBANON

ARMENIA

GEORGIA

QATAR

U. A. E.

YEMEN

SYRIA

IRAQIRAN

OMANSAUDI ARABIA

AZER.

KYRGYZSTAN

TAJIKISTAN

AFGHAN.

PAKISTAN

INDIA

KAZAKHSTAN

TURKMENISTAN

UZBEKISTAN

NEPALBHUTAN

BANGLADESH

SRI LANKA

CHINA

BURMA

THAILAND

CAMBODIAVIETNAM

LAOS

MALAYSIA

PAPUANEW GUINEA

BRUNEI

PHILIPPINES

TAIWAN

I N D O N E S I A

JAPAN

S. KOREA

N. KOREA

NEW ZEALAND

NEW CALEDONIA

FIJI

AUSTRALIA

RUSSIA

MONGOLIA

RUSSIA

FINLANDSWEDEN

NORWAY

GREENLAND

ICELAND

U.S.A.

CANADA

MEXICO

ALASKA(U.S.)

PANAMA

NIC.

COSTA RICA

ARGENTINA

BOLIVIA

COLOMBIA

VENEZUELA

PERU BRAZIL

FRENCH GUIANA

SURINAMEGUYANA

CHILE

ECUADOR

PARAGUAY

URUGUAY

FRANCE

GERMANY

FRENCH POLYNESIAWESTERN SAMOA

POLAND

AUSTRIA

UKRAINE

ROMANIA

MOLDOVA

GREECEALB.

SERB.

SWITZ.

SPAIN

PORTUGAL

UNITEDKINGDOM

LITH.

LAT.

BOS.-HER.

BELARUS

MONT.

MALDIVES

SEYCHELLES

KOS.

CAPE VERDE ISLANDS

MARSHALL ISLANDS

FEDERATED STATES OF MICRONESIA

COMMONWEALTH OF NORTHERN MARIANA ISLANDS

Bangalore

Trivandrum

Colombo

Chennai (Madras)

CochinKozhikode Coimbatore

Mangalore

East London

Abidjan MalaboDouala

Yaounde

LibrevilleSao Tome

Luanda

Johannesburg

Port Elizabeth

Mahé

Windhoek

Cities served by select airline partners that are not visible on the map:

Manzini, Swaziland

Durban, South Africa

Maputo, Mozambique

Harare, Zimbabwe

Lilongwe, Malawi

HarareLusaka

Lubumbashi

Maseru

Manzini

Maputo

Durban

Kigali

Bujumbura

Nairobi

Entebbe

Dar Es Salaam

Gaborone

Kinshasa

Lilongwe

Cotonou

Ouagadougou

ConakryAbuja

Monrovia

Freetown

Bissau

Khartoum

Cape Town

Dakar

Sal

BanjulAsmara

Addis Ababa

Sanaa

Kolkata

Kathmandu

Lucknow

Pune

NagpurRaipur

Ahmedabad

Indore

Peshawar

Karachi

Muscat

Islamabad

Lahore

Jaipur

Chandigarh

Goa

TbilisiBaku

Ashgabat

Krasnodar

Yerevan

Erbil

Alma-Ata

Astana

Bishkek

Tashkent

Dushanbe

Amman

Cairo

Luxor

Jeddah

Riyadh Doha Abu Dhabi

TehranBaghdad

Larnaca

Adana Gaziantep

Beirut

Damascus

IstanbulAnkara

KayseriIzmirTirana

Tromso

KristiansundTrondheim

Oulu

Vaasa

Turku Helsinki

Tallinn

GdanskMalmo

Warsaw

Krakow

St. Petersburg

VilniusMinsk

Kiev

Kosice

Chisinau

Bucharest

Sofia

Skopje

Malta

Tripoli

Algiers

Casablanca

Funchal

Tunis

Ekaterinburg

Reykjavik

Cartagena

Guayaquil

Medellin Bucaramanga

Cali

Maracaibo Valencia

Santa Cruz

Campo Grande

Cordoba

Iguassu Falls

CuzcoBrasilia

Fortaleza

Salvador

Recife

Belo Horizonte

Curitiba

Santiago

Porto Alegre

Montevideo

Manaus

Florianopolis

Kota Kinabalu

Harbin

Changchun

Shenyang

Dalian

QingdaoZhengzhou

Nanning

Okinawa

Kuala Lumpur

Ulaanbataar

Tianjin

ChongqingChangsha

Guangzhou

Hangzhou

FuzhouXiamen

Nanjing

Chengdu Wuhan

WenzhouGuiyang

Kunming

ShenzhenMacauHanoi

VientianeChiang Mai

Yangon

Phuket

Phnom Penh

Penang

Jakarta

Denpasar Bali

Luzon Island

Miyazaki

Pusan

KumamotoKagoshima

Nagasaki

MatsuyamaOita

Ishigaki

Pyongyang

Kochi

Cheju

Baotou

Rarotonga

Rotorua

Brisbane

Queenstown

Wellington

Auckland

Christchurch

Dunedin

Darwin

Adelaide

Palmerston North

Napier-Hastings

BlenheimNelson

Norfolk Island

Noumea

Port Vila

Nuku’ Alofa

Apia

Niue

Pago Pago

Komatsu

TenerifeLas Palmas

Riga

Belgrade

Alta

Lome

Lulea

Molde

Ostersund

Rhodes

Umea

Alexandria

Jammu

AntalyaBodrum

Benghazi

Bloemfontein

Batumi

Bandar Seri Begawan

Cebu

Chiang Rai

Donetzk

Ercan

Goiania

Haikou

Hat Yai

Hefei

Hamilton

Horta

Dhaka

Guwahati

Agartala

Amritsar

Juba

Kano

Krabi

Khabarovsk

Khon Kaen

Guilin

MashadNador

Ningbo

Odessa

Gold Coast

Oran

Patna

Port Harcourt

Bamako

Pointe Noire

Papeete

Perth

Copenhagen

Maceió

Natal

Hohhot

FukuokaFukuoka

Nassau

Chihuahua

Torreon

Durango

SaltilloMonterrey

TampicoAguascalientes

Manzanillo

Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo

Oaxaca

Acapulco

Puebla

HuatulcoVillahermosa

Veracruz

Queretaro

Belize

Guatemala CitySan Salvador

San Pedro Sula

ManaguaLiberia

Roatan

Ciudad del Carmen

Tegucigalpa

Montego Bay

Grand Cayman

Bermuda

Punta Cana

Aguadilla

San Juan

Caracas

BonairePort-of-Spain

Puerto Plata

Aruba

Panama City

Morelia

Puerto VallartaMexico City

Los Cabos

Cozumel

Puerto Vallarta

Los Cabos

Mexico City

TuxtlaGutiérrez

Providenciales

Guadalajara Port-au-Prince

Nagoya

Sendai

Sapporo

Osaka

SaipanRota

Majuro

Yap

Palau Chuuk (Truk)Pohnpei

Kosrae

Kwajalein

Manila

Nadi

Anchorage

Fairbanks

Lima

Madrid

Stockholm

Manchester

Barcelona

Edinburgh

Hamburg

Oslo

Milan

Berlin

Athens

New York (La Guardia)

Hong Kong

Cairns

Munich

Hong Kong

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

Singapore

Taipei

Honolulu

Seattle

Rio de Janeiro

Buenos Aires

Kuwait

Rome

Amsterdam

Dubai

Brussels

Geneva

Moscow

GUAM

NEW YORK (NEWARK)

HOUSTON(INTERCONTINENTAL)

CLEVELAND

TOKYO

SAN FRANCISCO

LOS ANGELES

CHICAGO(O’HARE)

DENVER WASHINGTON, DC(DULLES)

Niigata

Shannon

Lisbon

DublinBelfast

Birmingham

Glasgow

Mumbai

Delhi

Shanghai

Beijing

FrankfurtParis

Seoul

Bangkok

Paris

London

Bahrain

Sydney

Melbourne

Dammam

HiroshimaTel Aviv

Quito

Accra

Lagos

Kuwait

Stuttgart

AustinSan Antonio

Cork

Barranquilla

Santo Domingo

St. ThomasSt. MaartenAntigua

SPAIN

PORTUGAL

FRANCE

ITALY

SWITZ.

IRELAND

NORTHERN IRELAND

UNITEDKINGDOM

BELGIUM

NETH.

GERMANY

DENMARK

NORWAYSWEDEN FINLAND

ESTONIA

LATVIA

LITHUANIA

POLAND BELARUS

RUSSIA

UKRAINE

ROMANIA

GREECE

BULGARIA

MAC.ALBANIA

CZECHREPUBLIC

SLOVAKIA

AUSTRIA

SERBIA

BOS. -HERZ.

SCOTLAND

ENGLANDWALES

MALTA

KOS.

Atlantic Ocean

Mediterranean Sea

Toulouse

Sevilla

La Coruna

Malmo

PalmaIbiza

London (Gatwick)

Newcastle

Aalborg

AarhusBillund

Luxembourg

ZagrebLjubljana

Valencia

Bilbao

Lisbon

Porto

Turin

Lyon

Paris

London

Oslo

Copenhagen

Hamburg

Brussels

Hannover

Frankfurt Nuremberg

MilanVenice

Pisa

Rome

Trieste

Istanbul

Bucharest

ViennaMunich

Prague

Warsaw

Helsinki

Luga

BerlinBremen

Klagenfurt

LinzSalzburg

SofiaSarajevo

Cologne

Dresden

Verona

Vilnius

Katowice

Nice

Stuttgart

Riga

Stavanger

Ancona

Dublin

BolognaFlorenceGenoa

Stockholm

Amsterdam

Basel

Aberdeen

Edinburgh

Belfast

Birmingham

Bergen

Glasgow

Manchester

Skopje

Belgrade

ShannonCork

Izmir

Leipzig

Budapest

Gdansk

Friedrichshafen

Muenster

Heraklion

Palanga

Rhodes

Thessaloniki

Dubrovnik

Alicante

Alexandroupolis

Cluj-Napoca

Esbjerg

Mikonos

Kaliningrad

La Romana Palermo

Madrid

Faro

Marseille

Naples

Bristol

Gothenburg

Barcelona

Geneva

MEXICO

PANAMA

NIC.

COSTA RICA

COLOMBIA VENEZUELA

MEXICO

PANAMA

NIC.

COSTA RICA

COLOMBIA VENEZUELA

TobagoGrenada

BarbadosSt. Lucia

Pointe a Pitre

Providenciales

Port-au-PrinceKingston

San Andres Island

Havana

Guaymas

Hermosillo

St. Kitts

Providenciales

Santiago

Havana

Jalapa

Lazaro Cardenas

MexicoCity

Tepic

Ciudad Victoria

Poza Rica

Matamoros

Piedras Negras

Mayagüez

Punta Cana

Tortola

St. CroixPonce

Nevis

Anguilla

Vieques

Aruba

Belize


PACIFIC OCEAN

TegucigalpaSan Pedro Sula

ManaguaLiberia

Panama City

Roatan

Montego Bay

Grand CaymanSt. Thomas

AntiguaSt. Maarten

Caracas

Bonaire

Port-of-Spain

Puerto Plata

Nassau

to New York(Newark)

to Cleveland

to New York

(La Guardia)

to Washington

(Dulles)

to New York(Newark)

to Denver

to San Francisco

to Los Angeles

Belize



PACIFIC OCEAN

TegucigalpaSan Pedro Sula

ManaguaLiberia

Roatan

Montego Bay

Grand Cayman

Aguadilla

Puerto Plata

Nassau

to Los Angeles

Veracruz

Queretaro

Manzanillo

Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo

Puerto Vallarta

Los Cabos

Guadalajara

Chihuahua

Cozumel

Torreon

Oaxaca

Acapulco

Durango

Saltillo

PueblaMorelia

Ciudad del Carmen

Monterrey

Los Cabos

Cozumel

Villahermosa

TampicoAguascalientes

Ciudad del Carmen

Huatulco

Santo Domingo

Bermuda

San Juan

Samana

MartiniquePuerto Escondido

AustinSan Antonio

Route lines reflect flights operated by United Airlines and/or its regional partners. For accurate flight schedules, please see www.united.com.© 2013 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

0313

United/United Express

United Seasonal Service United Future ServiceUnited Hub (Red All Caps)Cities servedCities served by select airline partnersTime zone boundary

CITYRoute MapsINTERNATIONAL CITIESRoute lines do not refl ect actual fl ight path

p119-124_HEM0313_Routemaps.indd 123p119-124_HEM0313_Routemaps.indd 123 31/01/2013 10:2131/01/2013 10:21

U.S. I-94 Arrival/Departure RecordAll travelers who hold a U.S. visa are required to complete an I-94 Arrival/Departure Record (one per person, including infants). Write in English, in capital letters. Be sure to include the street name and number, city and state of your address in the U.S. If you are transiting through the U.S., you may write TRANSIT and your fi nal destination country. The Customs and Border Protection offi cer will place the I-94 Departure Record in your passport after inspection. Make sure you return the Departure Record to the airline representative before boarding your return fl ight.

U.S. Customs DeclarationAll passengers (or one passenger per family) are required to complete a Customs Declaration before arrival in the U.S. Write in English, in capital letters. Be sure to include the street name and number, city and state of your address in the U.S. If you are transiting through the U.S., you may write TRANSIT and your fi nal destination country. Please read both sides of the declaration and place your signature at the bottom of the form.

Expedited Passport Control and CustomsClearance in the U.S.—Global Entry™U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) off ers the Global Entry™ program in order to expedite the processing of pre-approved, low-risk international travelers entering the U.S. Upon returning from international travel, Global Entry™–enrolled travelers may bypass the regular passport control line and proceed to the Global Entry™ kiosk. Global Entry™ program participants scan their machine-readable passport, U.S. permanent resident card or U.S. visa on the kiosk, place their fi ngertips on the scanner for fi ngerprint verifi cation and make a customs declaration. The kiosk will issue the traveler a transaction receipt and direct the traveler to baggage claim and exit. Kiosks are located at major U.S. airports, as well as at several CBP Pre-Clearance locations.

The following travelers are eligible for enrollment in Global Entry™:• Citizens and residents of the U.S.• Citizens of Mexico who hold a U.S. visa• Citizens of the Netherlands who are enrolled in Privium• Citizens of South Korea who are enrolled in SES (Smart

Entry Service)• NEXUS members• SENTRI members

Application for enrollment in the Global Entry™ program is available at the Global On-Line Enrollment System (GOES): goes-app.cbp.dhs.gov. It costs only US$100, which covers enroll-ment in the program for a fi ve-year period. The government will review the applicant’s information while a background investigation is conducted. Applicants undergo an interview with CBP offi cers at an Enrollment Center in the U.S. before fi nal approval is granted.

MileagePlus compensates 2013 Global Services, Premier 1K and Premier Platinum members for the $100 Global Entry™ application fee (for new applications). Customers can verify their eligibility and receive their personalized code by visitingunited.com/web/en-US/apps/mileageplus/globalentry/default.aspx or united.com/premier.

Global Entry members who are U.S. citizens are also eligible to participate in the TSA Pre✓™ program. TSA Pre✓™ allows select passengers traveling within the U.S. to qualify for expedited screening through TSA checkpoints at several airports.

For detailed information, go to the U.S. Customs and Border Protection site, globalentry.gov.

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITYU.S. Customs and Border Protection OMB No. 1651-0111

OMB No. 1651-0111

OMB No. 1651-0111

CBP Form I-94 (05/08)

CBP Form I-94 (05/08)

CBP Form I-94 (05/08)

STAPLE HERESee Other Side

Admission Number

Arrival Record

000000000 00

Admission Number

Departure Record

000000000 00

1. Family Name

2. First (Given) Name 3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)

4. Country of Citizenship 5. Sex (Male or Female)

8. Passport Number 9. Airline and Flight Number

10. Country Where You Live 11. Country Where You Boarded

12. City Where Visa Was Issued 13. Date Issued (DD/MM/YY)

14. Address While in the United States (Number and Street)

16. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached

17. Email Address

18. Family Name

19. First (Given) Name 20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)

21. Country of Citizenship

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITYU.S. Customs and Border Protection

15. City and State

6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY) 7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY)

Welcome to the United StatesI-94 Arrival/Departure Record

InstructionsThis form must be completed by all persons except U.S. Citizens, returning resident aliens, aliens with immigrant visas, and Canadian Citizens visiting or in transit.

Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. Use English. Do not write on the back of this form.

This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 17) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21).

When all items are completed, present this form to the CBP Officer.

Item 9 - If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space.5 U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and 8 CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal.

Left, U.S. Customs Declaration; right, U.S. I-94 Arrival/Departure Record, which all U.S. visa holders must complete.

Customs & Immigration

Eastern Time Zone

7:00

M E X I C O

C A NA DA

BAHAMAS

CUBA

Gulf OfSt. Lawrence

PACIFICOCEAN

ATLANTIC OCEAN

GulfOf Mexico

T E X A S

Pacific Time Zone

4:00

Mountain Time Zone

5:00 Central Time Zone

6:00

Atlantic Time Zone

8:00

U N I T E D S TAT E S

T E X A SLOUISIANA M I S S I S S I P P I

A L A BA M AG E O RG I A

F L O R I DA

S OU T H CA RO L I NA

N O RT H CA RO L I NA

V I RG I N I AK E N T UC K Y

O H I OPA

N EW YO R K

I N D I A NAI L L I N O I S

M I C H I GA N

T E N N E S S E E

O K L A H O M A

M I S S OU R I

I OWA

K A N SA S

N E B R A S K A

S OU T H DA KO TA

N O RT H DA KO TA

MINNESOTA

W I S C O N S I N

W YO M I N G

M O N TA NA

I DA H OO R E G O N

WA S H I N GT O N

CA L I F O R N I A

N EVA DA

U TA H

A R I Z O NA

N EW M E X I C O

A R K A N SA S

WV

V T.

N.H.

M A I N EO N TA R I O

N EW B RU N SW I C K

N OVA S C O T I A

M A N I T O B A

SA S K AT C H EWA N

A L B E RTA

B R I T I S H C O LU M B I A

M A S S.

C.T.R.I.

N.J.

D E L .MARYLAND

Pacific Ocean

N EW F OU N D L A N D& L A B R A D O R

PRI NC E E DWARD I S L A N D

Newfoundland Time Zone 8:30

Maui

0 50 100 150 Miles

0 50 100 150 200 Kilometers

C O L O R A D O

0 100 200 300 400 Miles

0 100 200 300 400 500 600 Kilometers

BERMUDA

Route lines reflect flights operated by United Airlines and/or its regional partners. For accurate flight schedules, please see www.united.com.© 2013 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

0313

MonctonPresque Isle

Sand Spit

Prince RupertTerrace

Smithers

Fort St. John

Fort McMurrayPrince George

Kamloops

KelownaNanaimo

Penticton

CastlegarCranbrook

LethbridgeMedicine Hat

Thunder Bay

Sault Ste. Marie

North Bay

Sarnia

Grande Prairie

Sudbury

TimminsRouyn-Noranda

Kingston

Baie-Comeau

Wabush

Mont-Joli

Gaspe

Charlottetown

Bathurst

Fredericton

Saint John

Sydney

Goose Bay

Deer LakeGander

Îles de la Madeleine

Windsor

Vancouver

Toronto

Edmonton

Calgary

Winnipeg

Halifax

Ottawa

Victoria

London

City

Regina

Saskatoon

Cullaton LakeEnnadai Lake

Saguenay

Bangor

Miami

Orlando

West Palm Beach

Portland

Seattle

Boise

San Jose

Las Vegas

LOS ANGELES

San Diego

SAN FRANCISCO

DENVER

Sacramento

Salt Lake City

Tucson

Phoenix/ScottsdaleAlbuquerque

Charleston

Colorado Springs

Greenville/Spartanburg

Savannah

Baltimore

Birmingham


Louisville

Memphis

Milwaukee

Philadelphia

San Antonio

St. Louis

Tampa/St. Petersburg

Charlotte

CLEVELAND

Dallas/Fort Worth

Detroit

Jacksonville

Kansas City

New Orleans

New York (La Guardia) (J.F. Kennedy)

Norfolk/Virginia Beach

Omaha

Albany

Atlanta

Austin

Boston

Columbia

Columbus

NashvilleOklahoma City

Raleigh/Durham

Richmond

WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES)

Hartford/Springfield

Cincinnati

Bozeman

Orange County

Portland

Providence

NEW YORK (NEWARK)

Greensboro/High Point/Winston-Salem

Lexington

Grand Rapids

Ft. Lauderdale/Hollywood

Syracuse

Buffalo/Niagara Falls

KnoxvilleTulsa

El Paso

Honolulu

Manchester

Ft. Myers

Kahului

Indianapolis

Minneapolis

Dayton

Allentown

Madison

Pittsburgh

Appleton/Fox Cities

Burlington

Cedar Rapids/Iowa City

Wausau

Des Moines

Ft. Wayne

Green Bay

White Plains

Lansing

Moline

Rochester

South Bend/Elkhart/Mishawaka

Springfield

Spokane

Wichita

Lincoln

Missoula

Rapid City

Reno/Tahoe

Charleston

Traverse City

Akron/Canton State College

Jackson Hole

Kona

Burbank

Gunnison/Crested Butte

Hayden/Steamboat Springs

Montrose

Vail/Eagle

Fargo

Gillette

Rock Springs

Crescent City

Eureka

Aspen

Wilkes Barre/Scranton

Bakersfield

Charlottesville

Chico

Carlsbad

Cody/Yellowstone

Casper

Eugene

Fresno

Sioux Falls

Grand Junction

Medford

Pasco

Palm Springs

Santa Barbara

Roanoke

Inyokern

Monterey

San Luis Obispo

Santa Maria

Yuma

Modesto

Springfield

Redmond

Redding

(Reagan National)

Bismarck

Peoria

Asheville

Augusta

Pensacola

Myrtle Beach

Fayetteville/Ft. Bragg

Gainesville

Hilton Head Island

Huntsville/Decatur

Jacksonville

Long Island/Islip

New Bern

Tri-Cities Regional

Wilmington

Newport News/Williamsburg

GreenvilleNorthwest Arkansas

Great Falls

Little Rock

Billings

AltoonaJohnstown

Beckley

Shenandoah Valley

ClarksburgMorgantown

Helena

Klamath Falls

North Bend

Midland/Odessa

Chattanooga

Gulfport/Biloxi

Huntington

New Haven

Williamsport

Jackson Montgomery

Mobile

Salisbury

Newburgh

Ft. Walton Beach

Florence

Durango

Paducah

Brownsville

Baton Rouge

Corpus Christi

Harlingen

Laredo

McAllen

Daytona

Lubbock

Amarillo

Dallas (Love)

College Station

Lafayette

Alexandria

Lake Charles

Shreveport

Beaumont/Pt. Arthur

Tyler

Monroe

Erie

LiberalDodge City

Great BendGarden City

Hays

Prescott

Hilo

Flint

Long BeachFlagstaff

Midland/Saginaw

Parkersburg

Lynchburg

Elmira

Hyannis

Bar Harbor

Presque Isle

Nassau

Tallahassee

Treasure Cay

Cat IslandAndros Town

Nantucket

LOS ANGELES

SAN FRANCISCO

DENVER

Toronto

Honolulu

Ontario

Kahului

HarrisburgLincoln

Kona

Fargo

Grand Forks

Casper Sioux Falls

Bismarck

IthacaBinghamton

Idaho Falls

Kalispell

Billings Duluth

Jackson

Salisbury

Muskegon

Brownsville

Corpus Christi

Harlingen

Laredo

McAllen

Eau Claire

Houghton

Minot

Pierre

Alliance

Chadron

Scottsbluff

Liberal

Kearney

Laramie

Huron

McCook

Dodge CityGreat Bend

Hays

AlamosaPuebloCortez

Farmington

TelluridePage/Lake Powell

Show LowPrescott

Moab

Worland

Sheridan

Dickinson

WillistonGlasgow

Lewistown

Visalia

Hilo

Kapalua

Key West

Vernal

North PlatteCheyenne

Riverton

LOS ANGELES

SAN FRANCISCO

DENVER

to Anchorage

to Fairbanks

Bimini

Freeport

George Town

North EleutheraGovernors Harbour

Marsh Harbour

Jamestown

Dubois

BradfordFranklin

Lewisburg

Sarasota/Bradenton

Plattsburgh

Melbourne

Killeen

Del Rio

Mammoth Lakes

Hobbs

St. George

Santa Fe

ATLANTIC OCEAN

New York (Penn Station)

Boston

Newark(Liberty)

New Haven

Philadelphia

Washington, DC

Stamford

Wilmington

Train RoutesCodeshare/MileagePlus Partner ServiceMileagePlus Eligible Service

United/United Express Route

United Seasonal Service United Future ServiceUnited Hub (Red All Caps)Cities servedCities served by select airline partnersTime zone boundary

CITYRoute MapsNORTH AMERICAN CITIESRoute lines do not refl ect actual fl ight path

INFORMATION


Heard the news? With TSA Pre ,

TM

you can keep your shoes on!

Some United MileagePlus® members might have received an email with an invitation to participate in the Transportation Security Administration’s expedited screening program, TSA PreTM. Travelers can also participate by joining Global Entry. U.S. citizens who are Global Entry members and Canadian citizens who are NEXUS members receive an expedited customs process and may qualify for screening benefi ts as well with TSA PreTM.

Scan the code to learn more or visit www.globalentry.gov.

p119-124_HEM0313_Routemaps.indd 124p119-124_HEM0313_Routemaps.indd 124 31/01/2013 10:2231/01/2013 10:22


Our Fleet

AIRCRAFT CRUISE SPEED CAPACITY PROPULSION WINGSPAN

747-400 567 mph 374 passengers Four Pratt & Whitney PW4062 turbofan engines, rated up to 63,300 pounds thrust each

211 ft., 5 in.

777-200/-200ER 550 mph Between 253 and 348 passengers

Two General Electric GE90 or two Pratt & Whitney PW4077/4090 turbofan engines, rated up to 94,000 pounds thrust each

199 ft., 11 in.

787-8 560 mph 219 passengers Two General Electric GEnx turbofan engines, rated up to 69,800 pounds thrust each

197 ft., 4 in.

767-200ER/-300ER/-400ER

540 mph Between 174 and 244 passengers

Two General Electric CF6-80C2B or Pratt & Whitney PW4060 turbofan engines, rated up to 63,300 pounds thrust each

Up to 170 ft.,4 in.

757-200/-300 540 mph Between 110 and 216 passengers

Two Rolls-Royce RB211-535 or two Pratt & Whitney PW2040 turbofan engines, rated up to 43,700 pounds thrust each

134 ft., 9 in.

737-500/-700/-800/-900/-900ER

530 mph Between 108 and 173 passengers

Two General Electric CFM56 turbofan engines, rated up to 26,400 pounds thrust each

Up to 117 ft.,5 in.

A319/A320 530 mph Between 120 and 144 passengers

Two IAE V2500-A5 turbofan engines, rated up to 27,000 pounds thrust each

111 ft., 11 in.

Fleet Facts

p.s.® PREMIUM SERVICE: We’ve started the process of a nose-to-tail refurbishment of our p.s. fl eet to off er the international experience on routes serving JFK–LAX and JFK–SFO. Our fi rst reconfi gured aircraft began fl ying in January, and the reconfi guration of our p.s. fl eet is scheduled to be complete by late 2013. Upgrades include fl at-bed seats in United BusinessFirst® and personal on-demand entertainment throughout.

BOEING 767 FLEET UPGRADE: The 767 fl eet upgrade is nearing completion, with new features like fl at-bed seats in United BusinessFirst and personal on-demand entertainment throughout. United off ers more 180-degree fl at-bed seats than any other carrier in the world. By the second quarter of 2013, all fl ights operated on internationally confi gured 747s, 757s, 767s, 777s and 787s will off er fl at-bed seats.

In November 2012, United began scheduled domestic service on the brand-new 787 Dreamliner, and in January we started international service on the 787 between Los Angeles and Tokyo. We are excited to expand our 787 service to destinations in Europe, Asia and Africa in 2013.

The Dreamliner off ers a number of travel-enhancing features that will make your fl ight more enjoyable, including improved lighting, larger windows with electronic dimmers and more spacious overhead bins. Also, lower cabin altitude, enhanced

ventilation systems and higher humidity levels reduce the eff ects of jet lag on long-haul fl ights.

The 787’s innovative carbon composite structure makes the Dreamliner more fuel-effi cient and environmentally friendly to fl y. In addition to reducing carbon emissions, the 787’s design reduces noise during takeoff and landing. The 787’s improved operating economics enable us to launch service between cities previously not served by United, such as the Denver-to-Tokyo service that starts this spring.

787 DREAMLINER UPDATE

leet

2012, United began scheduled domestic service new 787 Dreamliner, and in January we started service on the 787 between Los Angeles and

excited to expand our 787 service to destinations a and Africa in 2013.

ventilation systems and higher humidity levels reduce the eff ects of jet lag on long-haul fl ights.

The 787’s innovative carbon composite structure makes the Dreamliner more fuel-effi cient and environmentally friendly to fl y. In addition to reducing carbon emissions, the 787’s design

NER UPDATE

R1_p125_HEM0313_Fleet_orig.indd 125R1_p125_HEM0313_Fleet_orig.indd 125 08/02/2013 09:4308/02/2013 09:43


Terminal Diagrams

C18C17

C16

C15

C14

C19

C20

C21

C22

C23

NorthConcourse

D1 D2 D3D4A

D4 D5 D6 D6AD7 D8 D9 D10 D11 D12

C26C25

C24

C27

C30C31

C32C33

C43C44

C45E1

C29

C34

C35

C36

C37

C42

C41

C40

C39

T E R M I N A L CUnited

United Express

T E R M I N A L D United

LufthansaSingapore Airlines

SouthConcourse

E2

E3

E4

E5

E6

E7

E8

E9

E10 E11 E12 E14

E15

E16

E17

E18

E19

E20

E21

E23

E22

E24

T E R M I N A L E United

United Express

T E R M I N A L B United Express

B81B83A

B83

B81AB80

B79AB79B77A

B76

B77B76A

TerminaLinkConnects Terminals A, B, C, D, & E via train

B88B87

B86B85B85A

B86A

T E R M I N A L A(North Concourse)

United ExpressAir Canada

B63

B64B62A B63A

B65B66

Station

Station

USO

B67

Station

T E R M I N A L A (South Concourse)

US Airways

Bus Station (A2)

A14A12A10

A15A11

A8

A9

A7A2 A1

(Lower Level)

(Lower Level)

B84A-S

International Arrivals

A17

A18

A19

A20

A24A27 A25

Under Construction

A26A29A30

IAH�|�HOUSTON GEORGE BUSH INTERCONTINENTAL AIRPORT

EWR�|�NEW YORK/NEWARK LIBERTY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

INFORMATION

TSA PreTM

T E R M I N A L CUnited

United International ArrivalsUnited ExpressA3

A1AirTrain

P4

A2

P1, P2, P3

88

104102

111109

105

101

(Upper Level)

7072

71

82 84 86

87858381

80

9597

9896949291

90

7374

75

126

123

125

99

124

127128

139138

137136

135134

133132

Newark Liberty International Airport Station — Connection with Amtrak and New Jersey Transit

131130

122121

120

103

107

B3 B2 B1

(Lower Level)

27/2

7A

25/25A

24/24A

26/26A/26X

20/20A23/23A

108110112

113114

115

28/2

8A

T E R M I N A L AUnited

United ExpressAir Canada US Airways

T E R M I N A L C

T E R M I N A L BUnited International Arrivals

LOT Polish AirlinesLufthansa

Scandinavian AirlinesSingapore Airlines

SWISSTAP Portugal

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C1

Concourse C

Concourse B

Concourse EConcourse F

Concourse G

Concourse H

Concourse K

Concourse L

Concourse M

Elevated AirportTransport System

TE R M I N A L 1United

United ExpressANA

Lufthansa

C3C5

C7C9

C11C15C17

C19C21

C23C25

C27C29

C2C4C6

C8C10

C12C16C18

C18AC20C22C24

C26C28C30C32

C31

B1B2 B3

B4B5

B6B7B8

B9B10

B11B12

B13B14

B15B16B17

B18B19

B20B21B22

TE R M I N A L 2 United Express

Air CanadaUS Airways

E10

E1E1AE2

E2AE3

F14F12

F10F11F9

F7F5

F4F3

F2F1

United (international arrivals, except Canadian arrivals), ANA, Asiana Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines,

Lufthansa, Scandinavian Airlines, SWISS, Turkish Airlines

(Lower Level)

TE R M I N A L 3

TE R M I N A L 5International

Concourse AAir CanadaLufthansa

Concourse BUnited

United ExpressUS Airways

Concourse C

T E R M I N A LW E S T

T E R M I N A LE A S T

C28-C39C40-C50

A24-A

39A

40-A53

A58-A

68

PedestrianBridge

Train

B15B17B19B21B23B25B27B29

B33

B37

B31

B35

B39B41B43B45B47B49B51B53

B57

B61B63B65B67B69B71

B55

B59

B73B75

B79 B77B93B95

B94

B92

B90

B88

B86

B84

B82

B80

B81B83B85B87B89B91

B16B18B20B22B24B26B28B30

B34

B32

B36

B38B42B44B46B48B50B52B54

B58

B56

B60

Concourse CUnited

United Express

Concourse DUnited

United Express

Concourse AUnited ExpressCopa Airlines

A1 A3 A5

A2 A4 A6A14

A15 A21

A22 A25 A32

B35-B51

B38-B48

B63-B79

Concourse BANA

AustrianLufthansa

Scandinavian AirlinesSouth African Airways

Turkish Airlines

Z GatesUS Airways

1-4

M A I N T E R M I N A L

Train

Shuttle Bus

C1-3 C5-7 C9-11 C17-27

C2-4 C6-8 C10-14 C18-26 C28-30

D1-7

D2-8

D9-11

D10-16

D15-21 D23-29

D18-26 D28-32

SFO�|�SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT IAD�|�WASHINGTON DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

ORD�|�CHICAGO O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT DEN�|�DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Gates A1-A12

Gates 40-48Gates 60-67

I N T E R N AT I O N A L TE R M I N A L

ShuttleTE R M I N A L 3

United, Air Canada, Air China, Air New Zealand, ANA,

Asiana Airlines, Lufthansa, Singapore Airlines, SWISS

TE R M I N A L 2

TE R M I N A L 1United Express

US AirwaysUnited

United Express

68

717677

7879

8082

8486

88

9089

8785

83

G91

G93G95

G97

G92G94

G96G98

G100G102

G101

G99

81

72

32

33/37

34/383536

2473

7473A

75

(37 and 38 on lower level)

Shuttle stopon lower level

(Lower Level)

Under Construction



TE R M I N A L 3

TO M B R A D L E YI N T E R N AT I O N A L TE R M I N A L

67A65

6361

TE R M I N A L 2 TE R M I N A L 1

TE R M I N A L 4 TE R M I N A L 5 TE R M I N A L 7 TE R M I N A L 8

67B

69A69B

68B

68A66

6062

64

US AirwaysAir CanadaAir China

Air New Zealand

UnitedUnited Express

UnitedUnited Express

ANA, Asiana Airlines, Lufthansa, Singapore Airlines, SWISS,

THAI, Turkish Airlines

71A

71B

73

75A

75B77 76

74

72

70B

808182838485868788

12

84B

TE R M I N A L 6United

Copa Airlines

C10 C8 C6 C4

C3C2

C5C7C9C11

C24C23

C21

C20

C19C18 C17

C16

C14

D14D12 D11 D10

D9 D8 D7D6 D5 D4 D3 D2

D17

Underground Tunnel

D21

D25

D28

C25C26

C27

US Airways and some United international flights arrive at Concourse A.

Concourse CUnited

United ExpressAir Canada

Concourse DUnited Express

C29C22

(Lower Level)

(Lower Level)

Terminals M, B and A

NRT�|�TOKYO NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT GUM�|�GUAM INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

FRA�|�FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT LHR�|�LONDON HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

CLE�|�CLEVELAND HOPKINS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTLAX�|�LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Gates Z11-25A1-42

Pier B

Gates C1-C9

PedestrianTunnel

Pier DPier E

Gates E1-E26

Gates D1-D54

Pier C

TE R M I N A L 1Austrian

Croatia AirlinesEGYPTAIR



United Aegean AirlinesAdria Airways

Air CanadaAir China

ANAAsiana Airlines

South African AirwaysSpanairSWISSTAM

TAP PortugalTHAI

Turkish AirlinesUS Airways

TE R M I N A L 2

B24B22

B25

B26B27

B28B23

B10-B20B1-B41B43

B44B45

B46 B47B48

B42

Sky Line Train

A/ZGates 50-69

Pier A/Z

Pier A/Z

Pier A

Satellite 1

North Wing

Satellite 2

South WingT E R M I N A L 1United

Air CanadaAir China

ANAAsiana Airlines

AustrianEGYPTAIRLufthansa


SWISSTHAI

Turkish Airlines

18 1716

15

141211

2122

2324

252627313335

323436

37

38

4746

45

4443 42 41

58

57

56

55

54

53 5251

Air New Zealand flights arrive/depart at Terminal 2.

Third FloorFourth Floor

4

5 6 7 8 9 10 12 14

1113 15 17 19

21

2016 18

(Lower Level)

Security Checkpoint

CaféFoodCourt

M A I N T E R M I N A L United

Terminal Diagrams CONT’D

T E R M I N A L 5 (post-security)

T E R M I N A L 4United

(Newark, Houston)Gates 1-25

Air CanadaAir China

ANABlue1

EGYPTAIRScandinavian Airlines

Singapore AirlinesTHAI

Turkish Airlines

T E R M I N A L 3

Transfer Shuttle

(pre-security)

T E R M I N A L 1United

(Chicago, Washington, D.C., San Francisco, Los Angeles)

Aegean AirlinesAir New ZealandAsiana Airlines

AustrianBrussels AirlinesCroatia Airlines


South African AirwaysSWISSTAM

TAP PortugalUS Airways

T E R M I N A L 5

Secureside and non-secureside buses serve all terminals

TSA PreTM


AMERICA NEEDS ANATIONAL AIRLINE POLICY

It’s time for taxes on airfare to begin their descent. U.S. airlines and their customers last year paid $19 billion in federal taxes. For example, you may have paid $300 for your domestic round-trip fl ight with $61 of the ticket price going to Washington, marking a federal tax rate higher than alcohol and tobacco, “sin” products that are taxed to discourage their use. Our economy depends on air travel. Commercial aviation drives $1 trillion in economic activity and 10 million jobs. We need a National Airline Policy that reduces taxes on airfare, to help keep travel and shipping affordable and enable airlines to expand travel and service options. A National Airline Policy is good for passengers, good for businesses and shippers, good for communities and good for our economy. To learn more and sign the petition, please scan the QR code or visit NationalAirlinePolicy.com

No.00000 National Airline Policy 1pp.indd 1No.00000 National Airline Policy 1pp.indd 1 07/02/2013 16:2207/02/2013 16:22


Safety & Travel Assistance

INFORMATION

Travel assistance for delayed or canceled fl ights

Staying Fit IN-FLIGHT FLEXIBILITY

At United, our priority is safety and keeping an on-time schedule. On occa-sion, canceling or delaying a fl ight is the only option to ensure we maintain the highest safety standards.

Flight interruption? We will confi rm you on the next United fl ight with available seats. Kiosks located in the concourse will assist you with information and a boarding pass, and will also help you stand by for an earlier United fl ight if one is scheduled. If you want to travel standby and aren’t boarded, we will transfer your name to the next United fl ight to your destination until you are onboard.

What about my bag? Baggage is boarded on the next fl ight if space is available, which means your bags may arrive before you. If so, United will secure the bag until you claim it. See a baggage claim representative.

What if I have to stay overnight? If a fl ight is canceled to address a mechanical issue or a similar issue within our control, we will provide

you with a hotel and meal voucher. For uncontrollable events—such as weather—we may be able to help you locate a local hotel at a discounted rate; however, United does not cover hotel or meal expenses in this event. If we cannot retrieve your checked bag, overnight kits containing toiletries are available. Please see an agent.

What if the reason for my travel no longer exists? If as a result of the delay or cancellation you opt not to travel, call United reservations (1-800-UNITED-1) to learn about your options.

Help us help you stay informed. Sign up for Trip Alert, our messaging service that informs you if your fl ight is canceled or delayed, at united.com. At home? Go to united.com for information or to check in and print your boarding pass.

Your safety and satisfaction are important to us. We appreciate your business and apologize for any inconvenience you may have experienced.

Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward chest, decreasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee. Repeat with other leg.

Dorsifl exion: With heel on fl oor, point toes upward, decreasing the angle between the foot and the front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

Eversion: With foot on fl oor, gently roll the sole of the foot inward. Repeat with other foot.

Knee Extension: Straighten knee, increasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee to its full range. Repeat with other leg.

Plantar Flexion: Lift heel and keep toes pointed toward the fl oor, increasing the angle between the top of the foot and the front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

Inversion: With foot on fl oor, gently roll the sole of the foot outward. Repeat with other foot.

MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT Whether your next fl ight is on United or one of its Star Alliance partners around the world, you can use the terminal diagrams on pages 126-128 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters and interterminal transportation.

SAFETY INFORMATION

NEED TO KNOW Customer safety is our primary concern. Our fl ight attendants are trained thoroughly in all safety procedures. But as expert as they are, in the event of an emergency they need help from you, the customer. You should be aware of the following:

EXITLocation of the nearest

emergency exitThe correct procedure for exiting

the cabin in an emergency Smoking is not permitted. Federal law imposes fi nes of $1,000 for smoking and up to $2,200 for any at tempt to

disable an aircraft’s smoke detectors. We prohibit the use of electronic simulated

smoking devices (cigarettes, pipes, cigars, etc.) on our fl ights.

Where your oxygen mask will appear, how to start the oxygen fl ow and how to use the mask

Please look carefully at the safety information card located in the

seat pocket in front of you

NEVER PERMITTED The Federal Aviation Ad min istra tion and

the Transportation Security Administration prohibit hazardous materials in either checked or carry-on baggage. Sub stantial fi nes can be imposed for violations.

Liquid and solid explosivesFlammable gases

and compressed gas It is a violation of federal regulations to drink alcoholic beverages during a fl ight unless they are served by our personnel.

Also, airlines are forbidden to serve alcoholic beverages to anyone who

appears to be intoxicated.Poisons

Radioactive and magnetic materials, corrosive and

oxidizing agents

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ONBOARD PHOTO AND VIDEO The use of still and video cameras, fi lm or digital, including any cellular or other devices that have this capability, is permitted only for recording of personal events. Photography or audio or video recording of other customers without their express prior consent is strictly prohibited. Also, unauthorized photography or audio or video recording of airline personnel, aircraft equipment or procedures is always prohibited. Any photography (video or still) or voice or audio recording or transmission while on any United Airlines aircraft is strictly prohibited, except to the extent specifi cally permitted by United Airlines.

CUSTOMER CARE We are committed to providing quality service, and we want to hear about your travel experience with us. In addition, if you think a certain employee or an action taken on your behalf deserves special recognition, please let us know. Please give us your comments at united.com/feedback.

Rechargeable batteries have a risk of overload or fi re

when not stored properly. Rechargeable batteries should be stored in their electronic devices or properly protected to avoid contact with metal or other batteries during fl ight.Advanced mobile phones, PDAs and other personal electronic devices with wireless capabilities may be used in fl ight when switched to “airplane” mode. A visible airplane-disabled mode should be identifi able and shown to a crew member upon request. Flight attendants will notify mobile phone and two-way pager users when it is safe to beginplacing or receiving phone calls or pages after landing. One-way pagers may be used to receive messages at any time.PLEASE NOTE Customers may always use any medically prescribed physiological instrument, such as a hearing aid or a pacemaker. On aircraft equipped with in-ear headphones, customers with hearing-assistance devices may request a diff erent headset from a fl ight attendant.Passengers are allowed to use non-battery-operated headphones during taxi, takeoff and landing. The in-seat power system may be used only above 10,000 feet, when other approved personal electronic devices are permitted. Use of the system is at your own risk. Do not remove batteries. We are not respons ible for loss of data or damage to computer hardware or software.

ELECTRONIC DEVICES

STAGE OF FLIGHT DEVICES PERMITTED

DEPARTURE: at gate, only when cabin door is open

ARRIVAL: taxiing to gate area Mobile phones and

two-way pagersPDAs and other

electronic devices

MUST BE TURNED OFF: during taxi, takeoff and landing

IN FLIGHT: above 10,000 feet

in altitude

ON GROUND: when main cabin

door is open

Noise-canceling headphones

Cameras

Shavers

GPS devices

Personal computers*

Aircraft power ports for laptops

Entertainment players and recorders (audio and/or video,

such as iPods;e-readers; tape/

CD/MiniDisc/MP3/DVD players; and

camcorders)*

Calculators

Electronic games*

* must be used with sound off or with headsets at

all times

MUST BE TURNED OFF: during taxi, takeoff and landing

NEVER PERMITTED

TVs Radio receivers and/or transmitters (including AM/FM/SW, CB and scanners)

Remote-control toys and personal air

purifi ers

PLEASE NOTE United strictly prohibits the modifi cation or use of any object or device to alter or limit the functionality, permanently or temporarily, of any aircraft structure, seat assembly, tray table, etc. If you see a customer using any such device or object, please inform United personnel immediately.

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INFORMATION

MileagePlusTHE WORLD’S MOST REWARDING LOYALTY PROGRAM�

MileagePlus Premier® program benefi ts overview MileagePlus features four status levels—each with its own thresholds for qualifying miles and segments. Go to mileageplus.com/premier for details. Below is a sample of MileagePlus Premier benefi ts.

MileagePlus Premier member benefi ts

Premier Silver

Premier Gold

Premier Platinum

Premier 1K

Premier bonus award miles 25% 50% 75% 100%

Complimentary Premier Upgrades confi rmation (as early as)

Day ofdeparture 48 hours 72 hours 96 hours

Instant upgrades on select full-fare economy tickets

Premier AccessSM priority airport services

Unrestricted access to Standard Awards

Complimentary access to preferred seating in economy class (Economy Plus®)

At check-in

At booking

At booking

At booking

Lounge access when traveling internationally

Compensation for Global Entry application fee

Regional Premier Upgrades eligibility

Global Premier Upgrades eligibility

Earn award miles every day

Miles accrued, awards and benefi ts issued are subject to change and to the rules of the United MileagePlus program. For complete details go to mileageplus.com.

For the ninth year in a row, MileagePlus® is proud to be named the world’s Best Frequent Flyer Program by Global Traveler magazine. Our award-winning program off ers many ways to earn award miles from fl ights, hotel stays, car rentals, shopping, dining and more.

On the roadEarn miles while you sleep. Stay at over 15,000 hotels worldwide from brands including Hilton HHonors™, Marriott®, IHG, Hyatt and more. Drive away with miles when you rent with our preferred car rental partners, Hertz® and Avis®. Earn at least 75 award miles per car rental day.

When you shop, wine or dineEarn miles with MileagePlus Shopping when you shop at over 700 popular online retailers including Macy’s, Nordstrom, Home Depot and more. Send a special gift from FTD® or join a Vinesse wine club and reward yourself with miles. Or, join MileagePlus Dining and earn up to fi ve miles per dollar spent at restaurants across the U.S.

Endless possibilities to keep earning milesEarn miles when paying your electric bill with Energy Plus® or stay in shape and earn miles with MileagePlus Fitness. Best of all, make all of your purchases with a MileagePlus credit card and earn miles for each dollar spent.

To explore all the ways you can earn miles with MileagePlus, go to mileageplus.com/earnmiles.

Global Traveler, GT Tested Awards, 2012 Best Frequent Flyer Program, ninth consecutive year as voted by the readers of Global Traveler magazine. www.globaltravelerusa.com.

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Alliances& Partnerships

GLOBAL REACH. WORLDWIDE RECOGNITION. EXCELLENT TRAVEL SERVICES. United and Star Alliance member airlines provide seamless air travel around the world. Star Alliance is the world’s largest global airline alliance, with more than 21,900 daily fl ights departing to 1,329 destinations. Customers have access to a comprehensive global network, frequent-fl yer travel benefi ts and worldwide lounge access on all Star Alliance member airlines.

Star Alliance Member Airlines The Star Alliance network

Established in 1997 as the fi rst truly global airline alliance to off er customers a worldwide travel network, Star Alliance aims to provide customers with a seamless travel experience across multiple airlines. Today, the Star Alliance network off ers more than 21,900 daily fl ights to 1,329 destinations in 194 countries.

Earn miles and status fasterWith the largest airline alliance, you can earn MileagePlus award miles almost anywhere in the world you fl y. Miles can be earned on most fares on almost any Star Alliance fl ight and can be credited to your account. Plus, the fl ight miles will count toward Premier® status.

Earn recognition around the worldThe more that you fl y with United and the Star Alliance airlines, the higher your status can be. MileagePlus Premier status is recognized across the alliance as either Star Alliance Silver or Star Alliance Gold, with travel benefi ts worldwide. Go to united.com/staralliance for the Star Alliance Silver and Gold status benefi ts you can receive.

Award travel is now easierWith Star Alliance Awards, you can use your MileagePlus award miles for award travel on any Star Alliance carrier worldwide. Or, use them for Star Alliance Upgrade Awards and upgrade to a premium cabin for maximum comfort (available on most Star Alliance airlines).

You can earn and redeem award miles on many of our other airline partners. See united.com/airlinepartners for specifi c information about each of our other airline partners.

Other Airline Partners

• Aer Lingus• Aeromar• Amtrak• Cape Air

• EVA Air• Great Lakes• Hawaiian

Airlines

• Island Air• Jet Airways• Silver Airways

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» CONTINUED FROM PAGE 71

O� entimes in West Africa or sub-

Saharan Africa, which is the epicenter

of the bad-water epidemic, the munici-

palities are piping water right under

the street but li� le of it gets to people’s

homes because they don’t have taps.

Gary’s idea is that you give the people a

water credit in the form of a $100 loan,

and they connect to the pipes and have

a tap put in their home. And then hope-

fully they’ll come back for another loan

and put a latrine in their house.

HEMISPHERES: Do you think of water as a human right?

DAMON: Yes. It’s a necessity to survive,

yet we seem to take it for granted in

the West because it costs so li� le. But

when you go to a community where

they don’t have it—yeah, it’s obviously

a human right.

HEMISPHERES: Promised Land is not a long walk from the subject of water, given that there’s a fair amount of controversy over the environmental impacts of frack-ing. Where did the movie come from?

DAMON: It was John Krasinski’s idea.

He went to the writer Dave Eggers, who

he knew from Away We Go, and Dave,

who I’m a huge admirer of, came up with

the story. And then Dave got busy with

his book, A Hologram for the King, and

John and I decided to write the movie

ourselves. I was also going to direct, but …

HEMISPHERES: But?

DAMON: It was December and I was

fi nishing doing press on We Bought a Zoo. I had run late on another movie, and I had been away from my kids for a long,

long time. I looked at the schedule a� er

I got home and realized that I would have

to go into preproduction in a few weeks

for Promised Land and leave my kids yet

again. I couldn’t do it. So I called John and

I told him. He was pre� y angry, and he

had a right to be. He said, “You couldn’t

have told me this a month ago? We can’t

even get our agent on the phone, and

everyone is gone for the holidays.”

I just kept apologizing to him, even

though I knew it was the right thing

to do. I knew that directing the movie

half-distracted would be a disaster. It

wouldn’t serve the picture, so I walked

away from it. But I said, “I still want to

do the movie, I love our movie, and you

have to trust me. The script is good;

we’re going to get a director.” Luckily, the

next morning I emailed Gus Van Sant,

one of my all-time favorites, and he read

it right away and said yes right away. It

was a 12-hour hiccup, but a tough one.

HEMISPHERES: Gus directed Good Will Hunting, which turned out pretty well. And meanwhile your co-star in that movie, Ben Affl eck, has made a little fi lm ...

DAMON: Yeah, Argo is just amazing.

I’m so happy for him. And I’m not

surprised—I know be� er than anybody

how talented he is. I’ve known him for

30 years, and wrote a movie with him,

and spent a lot of time talking to him.

THE HEMI Q&A: MATT DAMON

It’s great to see how well received this

movie was. And deservedly so. It’s a

phenomenal movie.

HEMISPHERES: You received a career tribute the other night at the Gotham Awards. Is it really tribute time? How old are you?

DAMON: I’m 42. I completely agree.

I didn’t even know what to say to that.

I’m trying to get a li� le $18 million movie

out there, so I’m like, “Yeah, sure, I’ll go

to the Gotham Awards.” It’s still a li� le

weird. I thought, “Does this mean you’re

telling me I can’t work anymore? Are

you pu� ing me out to pasture?”

HEMISPHERES: You’re not ready for the pasture. We need you to save the world by making another Bourne movie.

DAMON: I’m tied to the director, Paul

Greengrass, and if Paul wants to do it,

then I will too.

HEMISPHERES: The poster for Elysium has you holding a gun so big it looks like a cannon. Did you have to work out to be able to hold that thing up?

DAMON: It’s not that bad. They’re

special-eff ects guns, so they’re not

super-heavy. But my character had a

shaved head and he was really built,

with ta� oos all over him, so going to the

gym three or four hours a day was a big

thing in ge� ing ready for that movie.

HEMISPHERES: What do your kids think of the haircut?

DAMON: My 2-year-old loves smacking

my head when it’s bald. It had grown

back a bit, but then I had two days of

reshoots and they said, “You can wear

a bald cap, but you’re going to be in the

makeup chair for an extra three hours in

the morning.” So I said no way, and cut

it all off again. I’m just happy it seems to

be growing back.

DAVID CARR, who covers media and culture for The New York Times, is intrigued by the idea of an irate John Krasinski.



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question facing the people back in Mexico is: What then?

“The monarch is very important to the economy here,” says the WWF’s Rendón, “but we need to establish programs and a strategy for year-round tourism and other kinds of regional development.”

You get the sense, though, that the area may have turned a corner, that people here

are determined to see this through, on their own terms and in their own ways.

The Cayetano brothers, for their part, would like to move beyond growing trees: They’re seeking funding to start a sawmill to produce packag-ing for the avocados, pineapples,

fl owers and other plants that fl our-ish all around them. “The population

is growing up here,” says Miguel. “If we don’t give our children more opportunities, they will return to abusing the forest.”

This is a real concern. People still speak anxiously about the gangs that ran the illegal logging operations, and fear that they’ll come back if gains aren’t made fast enough. But, again, there seems to be a sense of determination among locals to keep pressing forward. “If we stopped our patrols, the illegal loggers would imme-diately start again,” says Marciano Solis Sacarias, who works at the largest of the WWF-supported tree nurseries in San Juan Xoconusco, an indigenous community in the state of Mexico. “But now they know we are well organized.”

Sitting on stumps and planks, Solis and his co-workers are eating a lunch of beef grilled on a metal plate over a wood fi re, accompanied by fresh avocados, pep-pers and a pile of tortillas. On about four acres of sloping fi eld below stand nearly 800,000 young trees. Up to 50 locals, includ-ing women and children, work at this vivero during prime planting season. For them, the demise of the monarch would be unthink-able. “If it were not for the bu� erfl ies, we would not get support for this project,” says Solis’ brother, Fernando, hands in the pockets of his work-worn jeans. “We would have to migrate out of here.”

PHIL PRIMACK is a writer and editor living outside Boston, a city famed for its annual (and somewhat less awe-inspiring) migration of college students.

FEATURES || THE BUTTERFLY EFFECT


people to work with the government,” says Roberto Contreras Rodríguez, secretary of the ejido of El Rosario, home to the area’s largest and most visited bu� erfl y sanctu-ary. “They were skeptical. But now they see that the tourists are coming.”

The primary source of funding for many of these initiatives is the Monarch Bu� erfl y Conservation Fund, established in 2000 with a $5 million endowment from the David and Lucile Packard Foundation, plus $1.5 million from government sources. From 2000 through 2012, about $2.6 million in interest has been distributed to commu-nities and private landowners around the monarch sanctuaries. Today, more than 18,000 people receive money directly or indirectly from the fund, the WWF says.

Given that there are 200,000 or so people living in the area around the butter fly reserves, that may not seem like a game-changing figure, but there’s more to the effort than improving people’s immedi-ate situations. In large part, the idea is to establish new attitudes and patterns of behavior among locals, and in this regard the project is showing great promise. For example, Javier Martínez Colín, who once helped his father cut down trees on the site of the Sierra Chincua reserve, now works beside his own sons to preserve the forest.

Not that the monarch is in the clear yet—a combination of climate change, pesticides and the destruction of its milkweed food source by North American farmers is making the species’ annual journey south extremely diffi cult. In the winter of 2005, enough monarchs arrived in Mexico to fi ll about 14 acres of forest; just

six years later, the population needed only about half as much space.

The fact remains, though, that if the butter flies make it back to Mexico, they face much better prospects for survival. The WWF reports that illegal logging in and around the Monarch Bu� erfl y Biosphere Reserve is at its lowest point since the reserve was established in 2000—so low, in fact, as to be barely detectable. “A� er 12 years,” says Omar Vidal, director of WWF-Mexico, “we now have a story of success.”

EVERY MARCH, a� er fi ve months hibernating and then mating in Mexico’s sanctuaries, the mon-

archs head north. They will fl y as far as 80 miles a day during their journey, catching thermals and being blown by the wind, ending up—a few generations later—3,000 or so miles away. The increasingly pressing


“ IF WE STOPPED OUR PATROLS, THE ILLEGAL LOGGERS WOULD START AGAIN,” SAYS ONE LOCAL. “BUT THEY KNOW WE ARE WELL ORGANIZED.”

questis: Wha

“The economy“but we nstrategy forkinds of reg

You get themay have turn

are determintheir own ter

The Cayetanwould like ttrees: They’start a sawming for the av

fl owers and otheish all around the

is growingdon’tF WE STOPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPED PPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP

UR PATROLSE ILLEGAGG

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Chef’s CornerGrilled Salmon with Endive and Berry SaladYields 4 servings

Grilled Salmon Salmon, four 5-7 ounce fillets2 tablespoons olive oil6 basil leaves, thinly sliced1 teaspoon each sea salt and pepper

Directions

1 Pre-heat grill pan over medium-high heat2 Season salmon with olive oil, salt and pepper3 Grill on both sides until done, approximately

4-5 minutes per side4 Garnish with fresh basil5 Top with endive and berry salad

Endive and Berry Salad ½ cup raspberries½ cup blueberries¼ cup of red onion, thinly sliced3 heads of Belgium endive½ cup extra virgin olive oil¼ cup white balsamic vinegar Salt and cracked black pepper Roasted sliced almonds or pine nuts, optional

Directions

1 Mix together the olive oil and balsamic vinegar, and season with salt and pepper to taste

2 Cut bottoms off of the endive and separate the leaves

3 Julienne the endive leaves during the last moments of preparation to avoid wilting

4 Combine the berries, onion and endive in a bowl

5 Drizzle the dressing over the salad while gently tossing

6 Portion salad on plates and garnish with almonds or pine nuts, if desired for extra crunch

7 Serve salad with grilled salmon

Executive Chef Robin Carr oversees every aspect of our busy domestic and international catering facilities in Newark, New Jersey. As a Culinary Institute of America (CIA) graduate, she professionally handles each menu development process. Whether it is a Japanese menu to Tokyo or using popular trends for menu enhance-ments, Chef Robin is always ready to take on the next challenge in creating cuisine for the vast markets served by United.

CHEERS! Courtesy of Doug Frost, Master Sommelier and Master of Wine

J. & H. Selbach Riesling Kabinett 2011 Germany | Great German Riesling is not sweet but very fruity. Seemingly sweet when first tasted, within a few minutes, Selbach seems dry and lemony. This dry wine would be an excellent pairing against the sweetness of the salmon and fresh berries.

g grkets served by United.

Chef’s TipAny combination of berries may be used in

this salad. If berries are not in season, use

thinly sliced black plums or nectarines. Fresh

fruit in green salads provide sweetness that

balances the acidity of the dressing.


AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE ON MOST NORTH AMERICA AND LATIN AMERICA FLIGHTS. FRESH PRODUCTS OUT OF LATIN AMERICA MAY VARY DUE TO

PRODUCT AVAILABILITY. ALL FLIGHTS ACCEPT CREDIT/DEBIT CARDS ONLY.

à la carteALL DAY ON MOST FLIGHTS OVER 2 HOURS

PRINGLES® ORIGINAL POTATO CRISPS $2.99

M&M’S® ALMOND CHOCOLATE CANDIES $2.69

STARBURST® ORIGINAL FRUIT CHEWS $2.99

7 DAYS™ SOFT MINI CROISSANT $2.99

CHEX MIX® $2.99

breakfastON MOST MORNING FLIGHTS OVER 3.5 HOURS

YOGURT PARFAIT $5.49Low-fat vanilla yogurt with berries and granola.

CHEESE & FRUIT PLATE $7.49Brie, Gouda, Muenster, cheddar cheese, and dried fruit.

Available on select flights only:

HAM & CHEDDAR BREAKFAST SANDWICH $5.79Ham and cheddar cheese on a ciabatta square served with Dijon mustard-mayo sauce (served cold).

or

HOT BREAKFAST SANDWICH $5.99Jimmy Dean® sausage, egg and cheese sandwich served with fresh fruit and condiments.

lunch & dinnerON MOST AFTERNOON AND EVENING FLIGHTS OVER 3.5 HOURS

ASIAN NOODLE SALAD $5.49A chilled noodle salad topped with stir-fried vegetables, sweet chile chicken breast and green onions.

GRILLED CHICKEN CAESAR SALAD $9.49Grilled chicken breast, romaine lettuce, Parmesan cheese, croutons and Caesar dressing.

CHEESE & FRUIT PLATE $7.49Brie, Gouda, Muenster, cheddar cheese, and dried fruit.

THAI CHICKEN WRAP $8.59Chicken breast, romaine lettuce, carrots, and red and yellow bell peppers wrapped in a tortilla with Thai aïoli sauce.

Available on select flights only:

HAM AND SWISS CHEESE SANDWICH $7.99Ham, Swiss cheese and lettuce on a pretzel roll served with mayonnaise and mustard (served cold).

or

ANGUS CHEESEBURGER $7.99Premium Angus beef with melted cheese, lettuce, tomato, pickles and onion, served with traditional condiments.

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BRAND

CHOCOLATE CANDIES

Made with Freshly Roasted Almonds

I N N O VAT I V E S O LU T I O N S

beveragesNON -A L C OHOL ICComplimentary and available on most flights.

Coca-Cola,® Coke Zero,® Diet Coke®

Sprite,® Sprite Zero®

Minute Maid®: Apple Juice, Cranberry Apple Juice Cocktail, Orange JuiceMott’s® Tomato JuiceDasani™ Bottled Water

Mr. & Mrs. T’s® Bloody Mary MixSeagram’s®: Ginger Ale, Seltzer Water, Tonic WaterFreshbrew® Kova CoffeeDecaffeinated Coffee Hot Tea

AVAILABLE ON SELECT ROUTESCappuccino, Espresso and Specialty Regional Teas

A L C OHOL ICAlcoholic beverages are available on most flights. Complimentary in premium cabins. Priced as shown in economy cabin. Beer and wine are complimentary in economy on trans-Pacific international flights and on flights within Asia and Micronesia. Sake is also complimentary on trans-Pacific international flights to/from Japan.

SP E C I A LT Y C O C K TA I L

MOST NORTH AMERICA FLIGHTS EXCEPT HAWAIISalvador’s® Margarita $7

MOST U.S. MAINLAND FLIGHTS TO/FROM HAWAIITrader Vic’s® Mai Tai $9

BEER $6Budweiser®, Miller® Lite, Heineken®

WINES $7House Red and White

INTERNATIONAL & MOST FLIGHTS TO/FROM HAWAIISparkling WineSpecial wine selections are available for premium cabin customers. Please ask your flight attendant about today’s selections.

SPIRITS $7ABSOLUT® VodkaBacardi® Superior Light RumBombay Sapphire® Dry Gin Canadian Club® Whisky

Dewar’s® “White Label®” Blended Scotch WhiskyJack Daniel’s® Tennessee WhiskeyJim Beam Black® Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey

LIQUEURS & COGNAC $7Bailey’s® Irish Cream Courvoisier® VSOP Fine

Champagne Cognac

MOST INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTSCrown Royal® Canadian WhiskyDISARONNO® Amaretto*

The Glenlivet® Single Malt Scotch WhiskyGrand Marnier®

Kahlua®** Also domestic premium cabins

Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only. Customers are limited to one alcoholic beverage at a time during service. We are proud to recycle aluminum cans, newspapers, and plastic bottles on eligible flights.

snackboxesALL DAY ON MOST FLIGHTS OVER 2 HOURS

TAPAS $8.59

Oloves™ Marinated OlivesRoasted Red Pepper Bruschetta SpreadWild Garden™ HummusRondelé® Peppercorn Parmesan Cheese SpreadStacy’s® Pita ChipsCream CrackersPartners® Olive Oil and Sea Salt CrackersEmerald® Natural AlmondsChocolate Covered Fruit

CLASSIC $7.49

Mott’s® ApplesaucePepperidge Farm® GoldfishPepperoniCheddar Gourmet Cheese SpreadCrackersCandyOreo® Cookies

SAVORY $7.49

Tortilla ChipsSalsaVanilla Raspberry Fig BarAlmondsNutella®Graham CrackersDried Fruit

A portion of the proceeds from the Eat for Good program will go to support organizations that provide opportunities and education for at-risk and underserved youth. For information visit united.com/eatforgood.Menu and beverage options may vary by flight. We apologize if your preferred choice is not available.

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hemispheres - march 2013

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