hello travellers - viestra...

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20. THE PERFECT HALF TERM BREAK

32. DESTINATION UK

48. VINOS DE LA GOMERA

60. HOLIDAY & TRAVEL DIRECTORY

24. QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK

40. COSTA RICA: PURA VIDA

52. OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

6. WORLDWIDE TRAVEL

CONTENTS

44. EDITOR’S CHOICE

56 FLÅM: A NORDIC DREAM

28. CULTURAL HIGHLIGHT

16. DETOX HOLIDAY

HELLO TRAVELLERSI’m glad you’ve picked up a copy of VIESTRA and I hope you’ll enjoy the read and hopefully get inspired to visit some of the beautiful places covered in this issue.

Our website, viestramagazine.com is growing from strength to strength, with new articles published daily and more and more readers engaging with our stories. We’re really excited about the future.

Our team has been to some amazing places since our last edition and we are so thrilled to share our experiences with you.

We believe that everyone should be able to travel and we like to share those places a bit off the beaten track, where you can get a true sense of the place you’re in.

Some exciting news for VIESTRA readers is that from now on we will be publishing our magazine bi-monthly. That’s right! More travel news, more stunning photography and more wanderlusting.

Thank you to all our advertisers for showing us great support.

Enjoy your travels! Alex

Editor: Alex Holman

Features Editor: Rob Tindall

Publisher: Paul Williams

Advertising Sales Manager: Annmarie Frankland

Advertising Sales executive: Maria Gomez

Design Manager: Catherine Clarke

Contributing writers: Francesca Baker, Georgie Kean, Geoff Moore

Contact: Advertising and Editorial call 020 3623 0567.

© PWR Media, Unit 22, 295 Chiswick High Road, London W4 4HH. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without permis-sion is strictly forbidden.

Alex Holman, Editor

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CHICAGO

OK, let’s cut to the chase - Chicago is brilliant - a beautiful city, home to some of the friendliest folk on the planet, a

stunning array of American architecture and a vibrant cultural centre at its heart. A four day trip will see you falling for the

charms of one of America’s most celebrated destinations.As Frank Sinatra once sang - This is my kind of town

Chicago is - my kind of people too - people who smile at you - no truer statement made!

WORDS BY GEORGIE KEAN

MY KIND OF CITY

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City of Chicago Photo Courtesy of Choose Chicago (Skyline Aerials)

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DAY 1

Leaving Gatwick on a cold snowy morning, we arrive in Chicago via Reykjavik around 9 hours later, after flying with Icelandic carrier WOW Air.Heading into central Chicago, we hit what is known locally as the Loop (named after the elevated rail track in the area), the downtown hub where everything, and I mean everything, happens - theatre land, finance, culture - and to make things even better, for the first two nights we’re staying at the Peninsula - a five star hotel a stone’s throw from The Loop - where every visitor should be.Before exploring I must plan!. I think this is essential if you want to have the best of times on a short city break. “So little time - so much to see”. Taking in the fabulousness of our Executive Suite, my eyes keep being drawn to the massive window with a view looking right the way down the Magnificent Mile. What is the Magnificent Mile you may ask? This is a 13-block stretch of North Michigan Avenue. It’s the place to focus on your retail therapy if you’re looking for high-end designer gear and no doubt home to the posh people, very very chic shops and department stores, smart hotels and cool restaurants with some seriously famous landmarks thrown into the mix.

Drinks at The Bar at The Peninsula

Time to head to The Bar at The Peninsula! The Bar has a seductive vibe, instantly setting the mood with its low-key lighting, comfy leather sofas, open log fire and smooth music. Professional sounding cocktails for professional cocktail lovers and an extensive list of fine wines. What a lovely way to kick off an evening! And take it from me, this is the place to go if you want to indulge in a bit of people watching.

Dinner at Lou Maltani’s

Feeling a bit peckish we wrap up warm and step out for some dinner. I must say that I was expecting the weather to be really harsh but so far so good. Here we come Lou Malnati’s. This is the oldest family run pizza joint in Chicago. Amaze-(dough)-balls!This is the thing I love about travelling. One minute you’re waking in your own bed and then the next, you can be thousands of miles away, sitting down having dinner amongst local people. It’s so easy! Now getting back to Lou Malnati’s - the Chicago Classic high crust is a must and so different to your usual pizza. Servings are generous, (well this is America) so don’t be shy to ask for a doggy bag. This is a really buzzing and busy family place.

DAY 2

American Writers Museum This recently opened museum celebrates the art of writing, from presidents to novelists to songwriters to reporters. This is a brilliant place to bring the kids, bookworms or not, as it doesn’t fail to get even the most literary phobic a chance to become involved. The fun touch-screen table, where you can fill in the blanks of pieces by well-known writers, is a brilliant bit of competitive fun even if you’re just guessing the answers. So lots of interactive things to get involved in and a chance to get creative with some collaborative story writing on typewriters from yesteryear too. All in all, definitely worth a trip. Set aside at least a couple of hours to benefit from what the Writers Museum has to offer.

Lunch at Remington’s

We pop into Remington’s for a bite to eat. This is Chicago’s Classic American Grill, situated right across the street from Millennium Park with a perfect view of Anish Kapoor’s Chrome Bean. I’m a big fan of their fresh crab salad and succulent mini steak burgers. Beautifully fresh ingredients and just right to set us up for an

afternoon of discovery with our very own Chicago Greeter.Off we trot to meet Lynn Neils who is planning to show us around some local known, and some not-so-known, places of great interest. This is a great alternative to using guide books to learn about this brilliant city. Greeters offer their services on a voluntary basis. Lynn grew up in this particular area of Chicago and we feel privileged to be a part of her world for a couple of hours. We meet at the Chicago Cultural Center which used to house the main library before it outgrew the building many years ago. At one time there was a threat of it being demolished but thankfully that didn’t happen and to this day you can enter the building for free and admire the beautiful workmanship that went into the intricate mosaic work which adorns the walls and ceilings of this truly spectacular building. The centre has the largest Tiffany art glass dome in the world. Reluctantly we move onto the Chicago Athletic Association Hotel. Now I’m glad that we did. I just feel (it’s a good feeling) as if we’re walking into my old school with its wooden paneled walls and large staircase. It has such a cool vibe with people having meetings and Facetime calls or just enjoying a drink with friends. There are roaring open fires and large comfy sofas and chairs. Take a look at the website and you may even decide to book a room there. I can just imagine how it was back in the days. So many of the original features have been left in tact. It’s magical. Lynn whisks us off to the Millennium Park. The sun is shining and there is snow on the ground. I really love the massive open air concert venue here, which apparently has something happening most evenings throughout the summer months. Lynn also takes us to various office lobby’s that still have the wonderful entrance doors, lifts and floors of the 1920’s. If you have ever ventured into Selfridges on Oxford Street, London, then this is the real feel of Chicago - revolving entrances, vast fluted columns that climb up the exteriors, everything is larger than life.

Dinner and Blues at River Roast

If you want to relax at the end of a long day of sight seeing, the River Roast might be just the place for you where you can listen to some blues and have a bite to eat. Great music, great food and great service. You won’t be disappointed.

DAY 3

We check into the JW Marriott for the last two nights of our stay.

Skydeck Chicago

Reaching to the sky is the Willis Tower in all its splendour (still commonly referred to as the Sears Tower). How it stands proud dressed all in black with its sparkling bronze tinted glass. We make for the 10am entry using one of our CityPASS tickets. The butterflies get in for free. I hope you’re not afraid of heights!We’re third in line which isn’t bad. Even at this time of year there are plenty of people heading for these attractions, especially at weekends, so bear that in mind as the wait to get in can really bite into your day. After security checks we’re led up to the 103rd floor, 1,353 feet up, where you can enjoy 360-degree views spanning over four states and 50 miles. The Ledge’s glass boxes extend out 4.3 feet from the building and you can look straight down to the ground. The Willis Tower is the tallest building in Chicago. Best to go with someone who can’t handle heights. It adds a touch of comedy to the experience.

The Art Institute of Chicago

Back down to earth again and we head off to indulge in some seriously great art. Entrance tickets can be found in the CityPASS booklet and the Big Bus also stops here. The Art Institute of Chicago was founded in 1879 and is one of the oldest and largest art museums in the United States. I can see why it has been voted #1 museum in the world by TripAdvisor as the collection of impressionist paintings are to die for.

Lunch at Forum 55

If you have a day when you’re hot footing around the city and time is tight, then Forum 55 is the perfect choice to grab a bite to eat. Mainly catering for nine to fivers working in the Loop, there is plenty to choose from be it for breakfast, lunch or dinner. There is a good variety to choose from, so it’s great if you are a regular customer. Sushi, pizza, lobster rolls, homemade soup and a huge salad bar plus grab and go options are just a few of the choices on offer. Just punch your selections into a kiosk pad, pay with your mobile and your order number will be texted to you when ready for collection. Simple.

Andersonville Neighbourhood

We take a train to meet Chicago Greeter, Tom Judge, for a walking tour. We meet at Bryn Mawr Red Line station, about 14 stops from Monroe. It’s a lovely neighbourhood, completely different to downtown - no skyscrapers to be seen anywhere. There is a Swedish influence here resulting from the Great Fire of 1871. The Swedes were able to build timber houses which by now was outlawed in Central Chicago, and they continued to arrive in Andersonville throughout the beginning of the 20th century setting up homes, businesses and shops and even churches. It’s one of Chicago’s most charming and hip neighbourhoods with unique bars and shops and is definitely worth a visit. Keeping to Swedish tradition, Andersonville celebrates the summer solstice with Midsommerfest, which has grown into one of Chicago’s largest and most popular street festivals. You can also find the Swedish American Museum on N. Clark Street.

KOVAL Distillery

After a couple of hours walking and talking with Tom, our greeter, we visit the KOVAL distillery and meet Joanna Miller, the marketing director, for a tour and tasting. We’re told about the unique company and approach to distilling handcrafted organic

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Clayton Hauck Photo Courtesy of Choose Chicago (Museums) (SHEDD AQUARIUM) Clayton Hauck Photo Courtesy of Choose Chicago City of Chicago Photo Courtesy of Choose Chicago (Skyline Aerials)

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WHERE TO GO • The American Writers Museum - 180 N Michigan Ave, 60601. www.americanwritersmuseum.org • The Atheletic Association Hotel - 12 South Michigan Avenue, 60603. www.chicagoathletichotel.com• Millenium Park - 201 E Randolph St, 60601.• The Art Institute of Chicago - 111 S Michigan Ave, 60603. www.m.artic.edu• Shedd Aquarium - 1200 S Lake Shore Dr, 60605. www.sheddaquaruium.org• Skydeck Chicago - 233 S Wacker Dr, 60606. www.theskydeck.com• Chicago Union Station - The Grand Hall, 225 Canal Street, 60606. www.chicagounionstation.com• Chicago Detours - The Loop Interior Architecture Tour. www.chicagodetours.com• KOVAL Distillery - 5121 N Ravenswood Ave, Chicago, IL 60640. www.kovel-distillery.com/newsite/

WHERE TO STAY• The Peninsula Hotel - 108 East Superior Street (at North Michigan Avenue), 60611. http://chicago.peninsula.com/ • JW Marriott - 151 W Adams St, 60603. www.marriott.co.uk/Chicago

WHERE TO EAT• The Bar at Peninsula Chicago - 108 East Superior Street (at North Michigan Avenue), 60611. http://chicago.peninsula.com/en/fine-dining/the-bar• Lou Malnati’s - 1120 N State Street, 60610 (and other locations). www.loumalnatis.com• Remington’s - 20 North Michigan Avenue, 60602. www.remingtonchicago.com• River Roast - 315 LaSalle Street, 60654. www.ricerroastchicago.com• Bar Roma - 5101 N Clark Street, 60640. www.barromachicago.com• Forum 55 - 55 E Monroe St, 60603. www.forum55chicago.com• Barrio - 65 W Kinzie St, 60654. www.barriochicago.com• Benny’s Chop House - 444 N. Wabash Avenue, 60611. www.bennyschophouse.com

DISCOUNT/TRAVEL TICKETS + CITY INFORMATION• Choose Chicago - There is a plethora of helpful information that will allow you to plan with ease and use your time effectively. - www.choosechicago.com• Chicago CityPASS ticket booklet. It offers 53% off regular combined admission to major attractions plus fast track entrance. - https://www.citypass.com/chicago • Chicago Greeter - http://chicagogreeter.com/ • Big Bus Tours - www.bigbustours.com• Ventra Card for use on CTA trains and busses. - www.ventrachicago.com• Windy City Limos. O’Hare Airport transport services - www.windycitylimos.com

FLIGHTS • WOW Air - https://wowair.co.uk/

spirits and are shown around the distilling area. Joanna kindly offers us tastings of the gin, whiskey and vodka that KOVAL produces and they are exceptional. We say our goodbyes and step out into the cold night with a warm glow in our tummies.

Dinner at Bar Roma

Bar Roma is the newest addition to Andersonville’s dining scene. A full house is testament to the wonderful, hearty, classic Roman fare that’s on offer. The variety of meatballs are to die for. People should be piling to the rafters to try the squid ink pasta. Proprietor, Julia Zhu, makes each and every customer feel very welcome. All in all, a great place for a meal.We take a cab back to the JW Marriott for a good nights sleep.

DAY 4

Shedd Aquarium

Our first stop of the day is the Shedd Aquarium. As we walk down Lakeside Shore Drive I see in the distance the most spectacular and giant fountain. It is the

Versailles inspired Buckingham fountain which was commissioned in 1927 by Kate Buckingham in memory of her late brother. Lucky and much loved brother by the looks of things.Shedd Aquarium is one of the worlds largest indoor aquariums. It was opened in 1930 and contains 1,500 different species including both salt water and fresh water fish. I am blown away by the fresh water Amazonian fish. They look like they’ve been lurking there since prehistoric times and I would not want to be wading around barefoot or even in my wellies in the Amazon with these scaly creatures swimming around. For something a little less scary, look out for the seahorse symphony and the wild reef. Again, try to get here early or you’ll likely get held up in the crowds and give yourself at least a couple of hours. This is an amazing place to visit.

Brunch at Barrio

At Barrio we have a rustic-industrial spot that offers creative Mexican fare with Japanese influences and the cocktails are unique and totally delicious. This is a

great way to spend a couple of hours at the weekend. It’s popularity is obvious by the many people who are filling the place up. The Eggs Benedict is fabulous. Be hungry and you will be able to indulge with gusto. Oh, and I do believe that they have a deal where you can down, with a meal, as much prossecco as you can physically manage for about $25. Sounds good to me!

The Loop Interior Architecture Tour

Fed and watered we make our way to The Loop Interior Architecture Tour with Chicago Detours. Chase Tower is the meeting point and there is a group of about 14 people. Did you know that Chicago’s Pedway’s are a network of tunnels, ground-level concourses and bridges connecting skyscrapers, retail stores, hotels, and train stations throughout the central business district of Chicago? I’ve never seen anything like this before. It’s ingenious! We’re handed iPads loaded with archival maps, historic photos, and documentary video clips which we refer to during the course of the tour. This is one of the top-rated tours in Chicago. Highlights include: Church in a skyscraper, Chicago Picasso sculpture, The Pedway, Sparkling Tiffany mosaics and The Cultural Institute and Marshall Field’s department store, now Macy’s. A great afternoon with huge enthusiasm and theatre from our lovely guide. The tour lasts for 2 hours and to end it off perfectly, we walk out of Macy’s to a sky full of giant snow flakes that give the Magnificent Mile a feel of Home Alone. How cosy can you get?

JW Marriott Hotel

Back at the JW Marriott and I decide to go for a swim in the hotel pool. It’s more of a relaxing gentle lap pool rather than a serious work-out pool and the water is really nice and warm. The JW Marriott boasts a wellness centre including a 20,000 square foot spa with 14 treatment rooms. Our room is tastefully decorated and really spacious. The bath is enormous and luckily fills super quick. All bathed and wrapped up in a fluffy towelling robe, I have some time to put my feet up on the exceptionally comfortable bed. Bliss.I’ve got that Saturday night feeling so, with glad rags on, it’s down to the JW’s main bar for a snifter before dinner. Sinking into the softest of armchairs by the open fire we enjoy a very palatable glass of white wine and nibbles. It’s rocking tonight. What a great atmosphere. Ok, it’s time to grab a cab a bit further afield.

Benny’s Chop House

We indulge in another brilliant culinary journey at Benny’s Chop House. What a fabulous experience and definitely not to be missed when visiting Chicago! Exceptional food, super attentive service & top marks for the cocktails and recommended wines.

DAY 5

Chicago Union Station

We just have time to take a walk down to

Chicago Union Station to take a look at the Grand Hall at 225 South Canal Street before heading to the airport. Designed by Daniel Burnham and completed in 1925, The Great Hall is considered to be one of the greatest indoor spaces in the USA. It has been featured in many films and is a wonderful place to go and see to warm up in on a cold windy day! Yes, today is bitterly cold but the sun is shining across this lovely city.Our very sleek transport from Windy City Limos arrives to pick us up bang on time to take us to the airport.We mooch around and check out the duty free shops for a while and then head to a bar called HUB 51 for a couple of pre-flight drinks before we board. Please be warned that only the food on the bar menu is priced, not the drinks!!!. We got stung with an $80 dollar bill for 2 glasses of wine and 2 beers. Don’t be shy to ask prices before ordering.Now it’s time to leave, Chicago is tugging at my sleeve.............

MORE TOP HOT SPOTS TO VISIT

Museum of Science & Industry - 5700 S Lake Shore Dr, 60637. www.msichicago.orgHoused in the former Palace of Fine Arts, this is the largest science museum in the Western Hemisphere. It is home to more than 400,000 sq ft of hands on exhibits

designed to spark scientific curiosity.The Field Museum of Natural History - 1400 S Lake Shore Drive, 60605. www.fieldmuseum.orgDiscover 26 million artefacts including SUE, the world’s largest T Rex. Explore dazzling gems, the Aztec Empire, 23 Egyptian mummies and a 3D theatre.The Adler Planetarium - 1300 S Lake Shore Dr, 60605. www.adlerplanetarium.orgThis is the oldest planetarium in existence. It offers all you ever wanted to know about space and more. There is much to see and the average visit is 4 hours + so an early start is advisable.The Driehaus Museum - 40 E Erie St, 60611. www.driehausmuseum.orgClose to the Magnificent Mile, the Driehaus Museum offers you a fascinating view of one of the few remaining examples of the palatial homes erected by the wealthy of America’s Gilded Age.

We’ve had a lovely time in Chicago. Our schedule has been full on and there are still many top spots and some lesser known ones that we are sorry not to have had time to visit.There is something and so much for everyone and I hope that some day soon we can return to this friendly, grand and vibrant city. A huge thank you to all who contributed to our memorable stay.

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Choose Chicago Photo Courtesy of Choose Chicago (Museums) (ART INSTITUTE) Adam Alexander Photography Courtesy of Choose Chicago (Skyline Aerials)

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COLCA CANYON

You have most likely heard of Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail, two of Peru’s most famous sites, while lesser known Colca Canyon can often be overlooked. Colca Canyon is

the ideal destination for easy hassle-free hiking.

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PERU’S LESSER KNOWN NATURAL WONDER

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WORDS BY ALEX HOLMAN

By Hugo Pédel / France - Own work // Cliché réalisé dans le Parc National Argentin Nahuel Huapi ( San Carlos de Bariloche ) / Laguna Tonchek, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=10810529

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A FAIR AMOUNT OF HOSTELS IN THE COLCA CANYON DO NOT HAVE ELECTRICITY

Colca Canyon is the second deepest canyon in the world, after the Yarlung Zangbo Canyon in Tibet, and is twice as deep as the Grand Canyon, with a depth of 3,501 metres. Located in Pe-ru’s Southern Sierra region, about 100 miles out of Arequipa, this scenic place is a popular destination for hikers and bird-watchers.

Why Visit Colca Canyon?

Colca Canyon is the ideal destination for easy hassle-free hiking. Unlike the popular Machu Picchu and Inca Trail, to visit Colca Canyon you don’t need a permit. All you need is a tourist ticket which is cheap and easy to get (read to the end of the article to find out how to obtain a tourist ticket).

There is no need to camp out in the canyon because there are many villag-es dotted around offering accommoda-tion where you can rest for the night. Colca Canyon is also not as crowded as the other popular famous sites of Peru. In fact, some people claim to have hiked for hours without seeing another soul. The last thing you want, when hiking a spectacular trail, is to be inundated with crowds of people.

Archeological Sites and Other Things To See in Colca Valley

- The caves of Mollepunko - where you can see rock art (estimated to be around 6,000 years old) depicting the domestication of the alpaca.- The Fortaleza de Chimpa – a recon-structed citadel sitting at the top of a mountain.- Malata Museo – a small museum where you can get an insight into

village life in the Canyon.- Pueblo Perdido Matata – abandoned ruins close to the town of Madrigal.

History of Colca Canyon

The Colca valley was first inhabited by hunters and gatherers around 6,000 years ago. There is site called Mol-lepunku, near Callalli, where ancient cave art has been found that represents the domestication of the alpaca.

In the pre-Inca era the valley was inhabited by the Cabanas and the Collaguas. The Inca are said to have arrived in Colca Valley around 1320 AD and, rather than waging war, they established their dominion through marriage. These tribes worked together to construct many giant agricultural terraces in the valley and irrigation systems to water their crops. Many of these agricultural terraces can still be seen today.

The Inca believed that the Majes River flowed directly into the Milky Way and, with this reasoning, they often put gifts and sacrifices in the river for it to flow directly to the gods.

The Spanish arrived in 1540, and in the 1570’s they ordered the inhabitants of Colca Valley to leave their settle-ments and move to more centrally-lo-cated towns, instead of being dispersed in their smaller settlements, which, to this day, remain the principal towns of the valley.

Climate

The climate in Colca Valley is gen-erally dry and cool, however there

are microclimates that vary with the altitude. In the colder, dryer highlands there is a large amount of livestock production, mainly alpaca and llamas; in the middle area, agriculture predom-inates, where they produce products such as barley, beans, quinoa, potatoes and dairy products; in the canyon, where there is a warmer climate, they focus on the production of fruit, such as apples, peaches, lucuma and avocados. The rainy season is usually between December and April and the summer season is between November and March. The most popular time for visiting Colca Canyon is between May and November while the weather is mild and dry.

Where To Stay - Cabanaconde - a small town which is a great place to set as your base for Colca Canyon hikes.- Chivay - the biggest town in the Colca Canyon. It is located at the beginning of the canyon with a wide selection of hotels, hostels and restaurants. It is also the best place to stay if you want to take advantage of La Calera hot springs and Cruz del Condor viewpoint. - Callalli – known as the alpaca capital of the Arequipa region. From here you can easily see Colca Gate, a rock formation in the shape of a gate and Mollepunko, which houses ancient cave paintings. - Sibayo – a traditional village mostly untouched by tourism. A lookout point, Mirador de Lagarta, and suspension bridge, Puente Colgante Portillo, cross-ing the Colca can be found nearby.

Wildlife To See in Colca Canyon- Andean condor – a bird native to Peru that has been the focus of worldwide conservation efforts with a wingspan of up to 2.7 metres.- Giant hummingbird – the largest member of the hummingbird family.- Andean goose – with a tiny pink bill, this goose resides around lakes and marshes in the high Andes, usually about 3000m.- Chilean flamingo – a large species of flamingo listed as Near Threatened by the IUCN.- Mountain caracara – a bird of prey in the Falconidae family with a red face complimented by black and white feathers.- Vizcacha – a large relative of the chinchilla.- Vicuña – a wild ancestor of alpacas and llamas.

What You Need To Know- Buy a tourist ticket - Visitors are required, by law, to purchase a Boleto Turistico (Tourist Ticket) from Auto-colca, the regional tourist authority. This ticket gives you access to the tourist circuit of the whole region of the Colca. Autocolca representatives can be found at Chivay, the Cruz del Condor, and Cabanaconde. You must keep this ticket with you at all times. - Bring cash - Most towns in Colca Canyon do not accept card payments or have cash machines to withdraw cash. - Pack a torch – A fair amount of hos-tels in the Colca Canyon do not have electricity. If you plan to stay up past sun down or you want to find your way to the bathroom in the middle of the night bring your own light.

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By world-wide-gifts.com - https://www.flickr.com/photos/worldwide-souvenirs/7347952920/in/photostream, CC BY-SA 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=20188065

By Dick Daniels (http://carolinabirds.org/) - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=11994204

Photo source: PeruTravelNow.com

Photo source: PeruTravelNow.com

By Unukorno - Own work, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=30459791

By Devonpike at English Wikipedia, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=25825893

By Elrond - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=45467804

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THE ULTIMATE DETOX EXPERIENCE

Longevity Cegonha Country Club in Portugal (Algarve) offers a great opportunity for that lifestyle change you crave and a chance to get your health back on track. With on-site nutritional specialists and fitness, spa and

beauty treatments available on a near hourly basis, this renowned well-being and fitness

retreat is definitely one to bear in mind when looking for that ultimate detox and health

purifying experience.

DETOX HOLIDAY

AT THE LONGEVITY CEGHONA COUNTRY CLUB IN PORTUGAL

DETOX HOLIDAY

WORDS BY PAUL WILLIAMS

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At least 3 times a year I’ll commit myself to a weekend detox in attempt to balance out a lifestyle typical of many people in their mid 40’s; I probably indulge a little too much in alcohol and although a vegan that enjoys a great diet my fitness is somewhat lacking. So, deciding to vary my usual choice of a weekend break in the UK, I opted for a three day relaxation, fitness and detox programme at the Longevity Cegonha Country Club in Portugal, in the southern coastal town of Vilamoura. This beautiful retreat offers substantial back-to-health and therapy based fitness and nutrition courses that will support an ongoing lifestyle change if you choose to do so after your visit or it will work just as a wellness booster on a relaxing holiday.

Warmly welcomed, I was shown to my lovely apartment on the complex, a stone’s throw from the main swimming pool and with easy access to all the

amenities I would be using during my stay. The apartment was exceptionally clean, had all the mod cons, a typically Portuguese rustic and homely-furnished villa. After a brief health check with the onsite nutritionist, a pretty intense schedule was devised for me based on weight loss, fitness and an introduction to alternative vitamin supplements based on a liquid diet. The thought of a liquid diet to see me through three days was daunting, but I was determined to see it through.

The three day detox program consisted of a full board meal/juice plan to be prepared and monitored by the on-site team, mostly made up of vitamin rich fruit smoothies and vegetable soups – these were to be taken 6 times a day as scheduled by the nutritionist.

On the first afternoon I had a one hour intensive Pilates session loosening muscle and releasing stress, essentially prepping you gently for the more intense activities planned. I must

admit, I began the second day with a little trepidation – feeling slightly lethargic whilst my body got itself in gear, faced high energy fitness activities interspersed with some of the best spa treatments I have ever experienced.

So, bring it on! Yoga, step, body sculpting – one hour sessions that burn calories quicker than you can say ‘Kebab and Chips please’! I particularly thought the Body Sculpting session (10 excercises done in 40 second bursts followed by 40 second rests then repeated to make up the hour) was brilliant.

The exercises were rounded off with a welcomed aromatherapy essential oil massage, amaaaaazing! All this combined with the fantastic vitamin rich soups and alkaline water available at all times, I could deffo feel the detox kicking in.

After one of the best nights sleeps I

have ever had, day 2 of the liquid based diet was a lot easier than I anticipated. Fitness sessions were a little more intense though - core training, toning and stretching being the most demanding. At the same time it was great to feel such energy, something I had been lacking for some time.

During the programme I had access to all the facilities at the resort including an infrared sauna room, steam room, ice Fountain, Epsom salt room which was absolutely brilliant, fantastic sensation showers and of course the outdoor heated multi jet Pool.

By the end of day two I felt I had done enough exercise to last me a lifetime, but felt energised and totally detoxed from the toils of a London lifestyle which was confirmed by a final health assessment; I had lost 4 pounds and lost 1 inch off my waist! The experience gave me inspiration to implement a lifestyle change that I have maintained. Don’t get me wrong, you have to be committed and in the right frame of mind to put yourself through this pretty intense diet and fitness regime, but the results are well worth it. That aside, you can just use this type of holiday as a once or twice a year body & mind re-balancing and relaxation break.

The resort, facilities and the overwhelming care staff give you make this one of the ultimate places of opportunity to experience and adopt a sensible and in some cases life changing outlook on your overall well being and how you approach day to day living.

Apart from the Spa & Wellness programmes, guests can also choose to just book a Standard Accommodation Rate and just relax, adding pampering Spa treatments from the à la carte menu and enjoying Vilamoura lifestyle. Standard accommodation rates include much more than just the accommodation and breakfast: Complimentary access to the Detox & Relax Wet Area Circuit (Infra-Red Sauna, Steam Room, Ice Fountain, Epsom Salt Room, Sensations Showers, Outdoor Heated Multijet Pool), access to the Longevity Vitality Plan daily group activities (examples: Yoga, Pilates, Stretching, Meditation, Tone & Fit, Jump, Fitball, Walks, Zumba, among others) and access to the Gym.

More information and bookings:

Telephone: +351 967 108 244

Email: [email protected]

www.longevityvilamoura.comwww.longevitywellnessworldwide.com

DETOX HOLIDAYDETOX HOLIDAY


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WHY MEXICO’S PACIFIC COAST IS THE HOTTEST

HALF-TERM BREAK

Half-term is the perfect excuse for a family getaway. If you fancy a break where you can relax on sun-kissed beaches, swim with dolphins or soar through the mountains with your loved ones, don’t miss Puerto Vallarta and Riviera Nayarit. The fun never ends in these neighbouring destinations along Mexico’s Pacific Coast. See some of the thrilling experiences your whole family will enjoy.

THE PERFECT HALF TERM BREAK

WORDS BY ROB TINDALL

THE PERFECT HALF TERM BREAK

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Soak Up the Sun

Puerto Vallarta, in the state of Jalisco, and Riviera Nayarit, in the state of Nayarit, offer more than 250 miles of golden coastline.

Get away from it all in Puerto Vallarta’s Boca de Tomatlan, where the beach is rarely crowded. At Conchas Chinas, you can expect gentle tides and rich sea life. If you prefer your paradise with a mountain backdrop, look no further than Garza Blanca.

In Riviera Nayarit, the Nuevo Vallarta resort area offers clear blue water and sandy beaches as soft as powder. High-end hotels and restaurants lie just a few steps away. To the north, Bucerias has a five-mile shoreline and a calm surf. And Playa los Muertos, in Sayulita, invites families to enjoy a safe swim.

Meet Whales and Dolphins

Whale watching has long been a favourite pastime in Puerto Vallarta and Riviera Nayarit. From winter until late March, more than 2,000 humpback whales arrive at Banderas Bay to enjoy its warm waters. They travel more than 15,000 miles to mate or give birth to their calves.

Throughout the region, whale watching tours give you a front row seat to see these magnificent sea creatures. You’ll get so close, in fact, that you can almost touch them.

Your family should also drop by the Wildlife Connection to swim with dolphins. Just like humans, teenage dolphins love a good time, and they often splash around and play games with visitors.

Embark on Your Next Adventure

If your family loves adventure, Puerto Vallarta and Riviera Nayarit will leave

a lasting impression.

Vallarta Adventures offer everything from jungle safaris to ziplining through the Sierra Madre Mountains.

For an adventure off the beaten track, head to Altavista, home to one of the largest known concentrations of ancient stone engravings. Or travel to the past at San Blas, considered to be the birthplace of the Aztec civilization.While you’re at it, why not take a day-trip to Las Marietas Islands? This UNESCO World Heritage Site is an ecologically diverse sanctuary with a hidden beach tucked just out of sight.

Immerse Yourself in Art and Culture

Well-known for the preservation of its Mexican traditions, Puerto Vallarta and Riviera Nayarit always give off an artistic vibe.

In Puerto Vallarta, more than 30 galleries showcase work by local, national and international artists. Public artworks lining the Malecón boardwalk turn an ordinary family stroll into a memorable experience.Likewise, Riviera Nayarit’s history will enrich your family’s half-term break. Explore museums and delve into the works of writers, sculptors and artisans that represent the spirit of these lands.

Or learn about Nayarit’s four existing indigenous tribes: the Huicholes, Coras, Tepehuanos and Mexicaneros. Tours to their communities provide excellent opportunities to learn about their ceremonies, lifestyles and artistic creations.

For more half-term holiday ideas on Mexico’s Pacific Coast, go to visitpuertovallarta.com or rivieranayarit.com.

Throughout the region, whale watching tours give you a front row seat to see these magnificent sea creatures. You’ll get so close, in

fact, that you can almost touch them.

THE PERFECT HALF TERM BREAKTHE PERFECT HALF TERM BREAK


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WALKING THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK IN

NEW ZEALAND

Stretching between the Queen Charlotte and Keneperu Sounds lies the Queen Charlotte Track which offers the best of New

Zealand walking and biking along with gorgeous coastal views, the stunning Marlborough Sounds, and native bush.

A trip to the Queen Charlotte Track will be a cultural, environmental and lifestyle experience as it passes through

historic bays and lush coastal forest full of breathtaking views and contrasting landscape.

WORDS BY FRANCESCA BAKER

QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK

Photo source: www.qctrack.co.nz / www.doc.govt.nz / www.newzealand.com/

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‘Look at his legs,’ Tessa says.. I can’t stop looking at them. I am panting heavily as I look at them. Day one of the 81 kilometre long Queen Charlotte Track, and our guide Ray, a rather sprightly 76 year old who runs up the hills billy goat style, is full of vigour.

He has been walking and running for years, ‘the chance to see places that I wouldn’t ordinarily’ being the allure. Every month he will do this route 5 or 6 times, in his ‘retirement.’ ‘I’m a runner really,’ he explains. As though this makes the track any less of a challenge to us more sedentary types.

The Queen Charlotte Track traverses the Marlborough Sounds, the drowned river valleys at the top of New Zealand’s South Island, and is surrounded by 1500 km, or over a fifth of the country’s coastline. Sounds for the geologically curious reader, are sea drowned river valleys, caused by rising sea levels and subsiding land. Swathes of green hills meet turquoise waters of the Cook Strait, outlined by a golden line of highlighting beaches. The views are startling; the walk a challenge; the experience wonderful. All of which have me wondering why it does not qualify as one of New Zealand’s ‘Great Walks.’

The island is decidedly spoilt though for walking routes, with numerous tracks and routes of varying surface, terrain and difficulty cross crossing the islands. ‘New Zealand is my favourite place to walk, by far,’ Ray tells me. Despite having trekked everywhere from the Andes to the Antarctic, via Camino, Niagra and the Great Wall of China, he feels there is something ‘right’ about the nature and variety of New Zealand that puts him at ease.

They call it tramping here. To my English ears this sounds decidedly seedy. The kind of thing that occurs in dark Soho basements inhaling the grim smell of stale smoke and desperation, rather than out here, the great outdoors, with its heady scent of freedom. Whether you call it tramping,

hiking, yomping, traversing, rambling, strolling or just plain old walking, the fact is that New Zealand is famous for it, and Ray’s legs testament to its value. With such vast space and so few people, sky high mountains and rocky crags, rolling hills and green, green grass, deep blue lakes, and a diversity of nature and landscape that is the dream of geographers, geologists and botanists, it truly is the world’s adventure playground.

Well defined, it is possible to do the Queen Charlotte track alone, or with a guide. I opt for a mix of the two, and so it is that on day one I follow Ray, from Marlborough Adventures, along with eight women from Australia away on a ‘girls’ weekend. ‘The boys get their golf, and we walk’ they tell me. ‘It’s a chance to walk and talk. And the physical challenge is great.’

Having got the boat over from Picton, the sleepy little town at the north of the South island, that was followed by dolphins not just nodding noses at the surface but bounding behind, we are ready to begin. Our first stop is not quite the Queen Charlotte, but Motuara Island, a small bird sanctuary, uninhabited by humans, very inhabited by birds. Cameras are almost shutter to beak with them, so tame are they.

Occasionally a little box can be found on the lower parts of the track edge. ‘What are these?’ I ask. Ray lifts the lid, and they are full of feathers. We all squeal with delight then. ‘These? They are where the small blue penguins come to shed their feathers and grow new ones, in their annual moulting process. They nestle in here for 6 or 7 weeks, go bald, and then grow new feathers.’

Despite desperately keeping our eyes peeled we don’t spot any of these small little creatures, the motherly cooing of my co walkers not quite managing to attract them out of season.

Winged creatures are abundant. From the famous New Zealand Weka, bustling along making its distinctive

ee-wee screech, the elusive kiwi, which I never actually see, black little robins hopping around, bellbirds charmingly singing, and a small creature with an almost Art Deco style black and white fan tail, which may be a Fairy Prion according to subsequent research, the winged creature is well catered for here. ‘There are no predators here’ Ray says, ‘and plenty of places to make home.’ It is a bit of a tour guide cliche, but true, and he says it anyway. ‘The most dangerous species, is you.’

Captain James Cook was on to something for it was he who, in 1770, first ‘discovered’ Ship’s Cove where the walk begins, made the first known contact between Maori people and Europeans, and used the spot as his New Zealand base. A clever chap, he was the only officer to eradicate scurvy amongst his men, feeding them a plant so rich in vitamin C that it is now called ‘Cook’s Scurvy Grass’, which he made more alluring by pretending that it was premium sustenance for officers only. Ray even adds some to his sandwiches. ‘Good for you,’ he shrugs.

South from here you see the snow trusted peaks of the craggy Kaikoura ranges, whereas further north is Wellington, the shadowy outline of the capital a reminder of civilisation. ‘I never get this.’ breathes Claire, heavily exhaling in joy. I ask her what she means. ‘Feeling free, not when I am in the city. It can be so...oppressive.’ Between us all we cover Sydney, Melbourne and London, and this kind of experience is rare.

‘This is so much fun,’ says Sarah, with almost childish enthusiasm. Everyone seems to be enjoying this physical challenge, maybe more than me. Faced with hills I am not the kind of girl who squeals with delight, but being half the age at least of everyone else on this trip, I must not lose face, and press on. I do love walking. Sarah only did her first walking holiday last year, and has fallen in love with it. ‘I want to walk the world.’ She grins at me.

Walking like this makes us all appreciate the simple act of one foot in front of the other more than we ever realise when on the pavement inn every day life. ‘Isn’t it funny’ I ask, ‘how a simple thing that we all learn when children becomes so much more than just getting from a to b when somewhere like here. It’s almost transcendental, spiritual...’ I trail off as yet another view hits us. Just more hills, more trees, more sea, but beauty.

It is March, and the summer weather still lingers, green banks and tree lined mountains just starting to be flecked with golden hues. In the morning the cloud is dense, breaking to warm sunny afternoons, but it is the transitional period that is so beguiling, when the milky film and chromatic light starts to dissipate, the cloud breaking, and the shadows on the aqua water like big shimmering circles, iridescent to the eye.

The landscape is surprisingly varied. Tall aloof pines line up neatly, to evolve into muggy rainforests and green rolling hills. Glossy Karaka trees, once a staple nourishment of the Maori mark the high water zone. The red flowering Rata Vine catches the eye, and delicate yellow daisies quiver in the breeze. The

land was farmed for a long time, logs felled for Cook’s ships and forestry only ceasing recently. Further down the track between Mistletoe Bay and the end at Anakiwa there is almost an English countryside feel, with low fences, tweeting birds, farm paddocks and horses on the slopes.

I love walking. I love breathing fresh air. I love using my body. I also love hot showers, comfortable beds, and a glass of wine at the end of the day, and thus see no shame in admitting that whilst the Department of Conservation do provide camping grounds in designated spots en route, I opt to stay in nice hotels and have my bags shipped from day to day along the coast, courtesy of Marlborough Adventure. In fact, towards the end of the first day the words ‘could murder a cold one’ are being uttered by us all. The Punga Cove Resort, Peppers Portage, and Furneaux Lodge are all nice, comfortable and clean resorts, serving good food with good views, lawns reaching to the water’s edge, and a relaxing vibe to the end of the day.

Day three, when I walk alone, although with accommodation and bags still being transported for me, is by far the toughest. The track itself is literally tougher, over 24 km of the most undulating terrain, not only varying in gradient but texture. Rocky steep hills result in me looking at my feet too often, and I find myself trying to keep balance by adopting a sort of goose stepping pointed ballet hybrid approach, which is neither aesthetically pleasing nor particularly successful as a walking strategy. But as well as this the camaraderie and enthusiasm of a group is noticeably absent - especially a group of chatting ladies.

That’s not to say I am alone. All sorts of people are out tramping, with young backpackers and their sleeping bags, older people on guided tours, fit middle-aged men running, and mountain bikers panting up before the downhill thrill. Challenging in places and meditative in

others, the walk is certainly more than a stroll.

The final spot on the track, where the boat comes to return me to Picton, is Anakiwa. Twenty kilometres remain until then. The low points, when views are less stimulating but the effort levels needed are equally less, are welcome. These dips are called saddles, and were used as less arduous options for transporting goods. In fact much of the track was originally used as bridle track by local farmers and miners, and at Endeavour Head the remains of operation in the form of ‘spoil heaps’ can be seen of the mine which employed over a hundred people at the turn of the century, mining antimony ore.

Those earlier settlers had a felicitous approach to naming spots on their travels. It is hard not to feel inspired sitting eating lunch at Resolution Bay and looking out on the ocean, where cool Pacific waters roll in and out, cleaning silt and leaving it beautifully clear, all be it a cool fourteen degrees. Or that indeed an endeavour was being undertaken at Endeavour Inlet, albeit not one on the self some scale as Cook and his men. We also clamber over Woolshed Peak, see and reach Cnocna Lear, a revealing hint at the nationality of some off those first European visitors.

On this final day I reach the highest point on the track, 487m above sea level, although in this case nameless for its achievement, somewhere between Torea Bay and Lochmara. It is easy to become saturated with stunning scenery on this walk, easy anywhere in New Zealand, where exclamations of wonder at the spiring mountains and sparkling waters becomes too commonplace.

Facing Anakiwa on the track, to my left is the Queen Charlotte Sound and to the right Pelorus sound. It strikes me how simple this all is. Hills, water, walking. But how stimulating, beautiful, beguiling, and wonderful. The simple things in life are indeed sometimes the very best.

Photo by Nick Thompson | Creative CommonsPhoto source: www.qctrack.co.nz / www.doc.govt.nz / www.newzealand.com/Photo source: www.qctrack.co.nz / www.doc.govt.nz / www.newzealand.com/Photo source: www.qctrack.co.nz / www.doc.govt.nz / www.newzealand.com/

QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK


Photo source: www.qctrack.co.nz / www.doc.govt.nz / www.newzealand.com/

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15 THINGS YOU DIDN’T KNOW ABOUT QUÉBEC

With its fusion of indigenous, Canadian and European cultures, Québec is a truly distinctive destination, home to a variety of

activities, wildlife and gastronomy that can only be found in the province. From its very own Big Five to North America’s only ice

hotel, the largest log cabin in the world to the first international Dark Sky Reserve, not to mention the highest suspended bicycle ride in the world, whether it’s big, small, quirky or one-of-a-kind, here are

15 top facts you may not know about Québec…

Image by Jean-François Bergeron

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1. QUÉBEC IS HOME TO THE WORLD’S FIRST INTERNATIONAL DARK SKY RESERVELocated near the United States border, Mont-Mégantic is home to the world’s first International Dark Sky Reserve. It encompasses the regional county municipalities of Granit and Haut-Saint-François, the city of Sherbrooke and Mont-Mégantic National Park, its observatory and visitor centre. www.darksky.org/idsp/reserves/montmegantic

2. QUÉBEC IS THREE TIMES THE SIZE OF FRANCEAt 1.667 million km², Québec is the largest province in Canada, three times the size of France and even larger than Alaska! With 7,500,000 inhabitants, it is the second largest province in

Canada by population after Ontario.

3. THERE ARE OVER ONE MILLION LAKES IN QUÉBECAs a result of the remnants of the glacier that covered the area in the last ice age, Québec is home to over one million lakes ranging from just 15km² to some that are over 2,000km².

4. MONTRÉAL HAS THE HIGHEST NUMBER OF RESTAURANTS PER CAPITA IN CANADAMontréal has over 26 restaurants per 10,000 people, making it the city with the highest number of restaurants per capita in Canada and the second highest in North America after New York. Some of the city’s most famous restaurants include Toqué, Joe Beef and Europea.

5. VÉLO VOLANT IN THE EASTERN TOWNSHIPS IS THE WORLD’S HIGHEST SUSPENDED BICYCLE RIDEQuébec’s VéloVolant ‘Au Diable Vert’ or ‘The Green Devil’ allows visitors to soar through the treetops between the summits of Mont Sutton, Jay Peak, and Owl’s Head in Eastern Townships, Québec, on a horizontal bicycle suspended in the air. At 1,000 feet, the circuit is the highest suspended bicycle ride in the world. www.audiablevert.com/en

6. QUÉBEC HAS ITS OWN ‘BIG FIVE’Lion, elephant, rhino, buffalo and leopard are often what spring to mind when people think of the ‘Big Five’. But Africa isn’t the only place in the world with a Big Five, in fact, Québec has its very own special five species.

These are the grey wolf, blue whale, snowy owl, black bear and moose.

7. CANYON SAINTE ANNE IS THE WORLD’S FIRST WINTER VIA FERRATA30 minutes outside Québec City, Projet Vertical is the world’s first summer and winter via ferrata. The mountain sports trail combines hiking and rock climbing with circuits adapted for all levels. The trail is set up on a rock face equipped with cables, beams and a variety of bridges and footpaths to facilitate the hike whilst ensuring safety. www.projetvertical.com/en

8. THE HÔTEL DE GLACE IS THE FIRST AND ONLY ICE HOTEL IN NORTH AMERICAJust 10 minutes’ drive from downtown Québec City lies the Ice Hotel (‘Hotel de Glace’) which is the only ice hotel in America entirely made of ice and snow. The structure is rebuilt each year and takes 50 workers, including fifteen sculptors, six weeks to build and requires over 30,000 tons of snow. This year, it is open until 25th March. www.hoteldeglace-canada.com

9. QUÉBEC GAVE THE WORLD CIRQUE DU SOLEILCirque du Soleil or ‘Circus of the Sun’ originated from Baie-Saint-Paul, near Québec City. In 1984, Québec was celebrating the 450th anniversary of Canada’s discovery

by Jacques Cartier and they needed a show to take the festivities across the province. Guy Laliberté presented a proposal for a show called Cirque du Soleil and succeeded in convincing the organisers. Cirque du Soleil has evolved into one of the world’s most famous live spectacles, starting off as a company of 73 people in 1984, Cirque du Soleil now employs 5,000 worldwide and entertains millions of viewers yearly. Today, its headquarters are located in Montréal. www.cirquedusoleil.com

10. QUÉBEC IS THE ONLY PLACE IN THE WORLD PEOPLE CAN DO ICE CANOEINGIce canoeing was originally a means of transport between Québec City and Lévis, located on opposite sides of the St Lawrence River, when there was too much ice on the river for the ferries to cross. Today, it is a competitive sport and the only place in the world you can try in. Ice canoeing involves crews of five alternately pushing their canoe across the ice on the frozen parts of the river and the biggest competition of the year takes place in February during Québec City’s Winter Carnival. www.quebecicecanoeing.com

11. QUÉBEC CITY IS THE ONLY WALLED CITY IN NORTH AMERICA NORTH OF MEXICOThe fortified ramparts surrounding Québec City date back around 400 years and were designated a National Historic Site of Canada in 1948. Québec City is the only walled city in North America north of Mexico and Old Québec, which is almost completely surrounded by the wall, was declared a World Heritage site by UNESCO in 1985. www.quebecregion.com/en

12. THE WORLD’S OLDEST FOSSILS HAVE BEEN DISCOVERED IN QUÉBECA recent study published by scientists claims they have discovered the world’s oldest fossils, thought to have formed between 3.8bn and 4.3bn years

ago, in the rocks of the Nuvvuagittuq Supracrustal Belt in Inukjuak, in the Nord-du-Québec region. The findings could help scientists find life on other planets such as Mars.

13. THE MODERN DAY SNOWMOBILE WAS INVENTED BY QUÉBÉCOIS JOSEPH-ARMAND BOMBARDIERIn the early 20th century, the original snowmobile model was found to be unsuitable for dealing with humid snow areas in places such as Québec and New England. In 1960, inventor Joseph-Armand Bombardier, from the small town of Valcourt in Québec, designed the snowmobile as we know it today using a different caterpillar track system which made it equipped for all kinds of snow conditions. Today, there is a museum dedicated to the legacy of Mr Bombardier. www.museebombardier.com/en

14. FAIRMONT LE CHÂTEAU MONTEBELLO IS THE LARGEST LOG CABIN IN THE WORLDFounded as an exclusive private club in 1930, four star Fairmont Le Château Montebello is a red cedar log cabin located in Outaouais, Québec. Set amongst 65,000 acres of forested wildlife sanctuary and with 211 rooms, the luxury hotel is the largest log cabin in the world.

15. QUÉBEC WAS THE ONLY REGION IN NORTH AMERICA ALLOWING ALCOHOL SALES DURING THE PROHIBITIONOn 10th April 1919, Québec held a referendum on the legalisation of alcohol with the ‘yes’ side winning 78.62% of votes. This made the province the only place in the US or Canada not to impose prohibition and, as a result, sales for alcohol sky rocketed in Québec from all over North America.

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON QUÉBEC VISIT:

WWW.QUEBECORIGINAL.COM/EN-GB

Photo by Guillaume Poulin

Image by OTQ

Photo by Bénédicte Brocard

Image 11: Jeff Frenette Photography

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DISCOVER SCOTLAND’S BOOMING

MICRODISTILLERY INDUSTRY

A microdistillery is a small, boutique-like distillery which produces hand-crafted alcoholic beverages in small

quantities, normally done in single batches. Microdistillers generally experiment with different and innovative

techniques to produce new flavours.

Scotland has seen a boom in the microdistillery industry with new distilleries popping up all over the country in the last few years, producing many different types of liquor.


DESTINATION UK DESTINATION UK

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A microdistillery is a small, boutique-like distillery which produces hand-crafted alcoholic beverages in small quantities, normally done in single batches. Microdis-tillers generally experiment with different and innovative techniques to produce new flavours.

Scotland has seen a boom in the microdis-tillery industry with new distilleries popping up all over the country in the last few years, producing many different types of liquor.

Scotland has a rich history in distilling and, now with this new wave of miscrodistill-eries, it can continue to produce quality spirit enjoyed around the world.

Here is a list of our 8 favourite micro-dis-tilleries which you can visit in Scotland:

Kingsbarns DistilleryKingsbarns, FifeProduces: Whisky | GinWhile working as a golf caddie at neigh-bouring Kingsbarns Golf Links, it was Douglas Clement’s vision that first inspired the idea for a distillery at Kingsbarns. His determined belief in the project and an unfettered passion for single malt whisky has been instrumental in bringing the dream to life.

Douglas needed a partner to make his whisky dream a reality which is why the Wemyss family, (pronounced ‘weems’), who are well-known whisky bottlers, joined the project. Their experience in the whisky industry has been instrumental in turning Doug’s dream into a reality.

With plans to release their first light, fruity style single malt in early 2018, now is the best time to visit this distillery.

Isle Of Harris Distillers Ltd.Tarbert. Isle of HarrisProduces: Whisky | GinThe Isle of Harris Distillery is a work-ing distillery located in the islands’ main village of Tarbert, creating spirits for the award-winning Isle of Harris Gin and their forthcoming ‘The Hearach’ Single Malt Whisky.

But in keeping with their ‘Social Distillery’ ethos, they are also open to visitors six days a week with a traditional peat fire lit in the heart of the distillery each morning to give everyone a warm welcome.

There is a deep belief that the island’s nat-ural assets can best be harnessed to address their economic problems through ambitious projects like their own, bringing this special place and its qualities to the attention of a wider audience.

“We have the future of Harris at our heart, working not only to enrich our homeland, creating an enterprise that will thrive for decades and even centuries to come, but to send the magical, elusive spirit of the island

out into the world.”

Pickering’s DistilleryEdinburgh Produces: GinThe first gin distillery to open in Edinburgh for 150 years was officially launched in what used to be the dog kennels at the city’s former Royal Dick vet school at Summer-hall.

The brainchild of Marcus Pickering, a former butler at Skibo Castle, and engi-neer Matthew Gammell, Pickering’s has produced a fantastic range of gins and alongside Edinburgh and Daffy’s Gin has firmly re-established Scotland’s trendiest new spirit in the capital.

Their range of core gins are based on an original Bombay recipe dating from 1947 and they have recently launched a new collection of oak-aged gins.

Strathearn DistilleryMethven, Perthshire Produces: Whisky | Gin | Rum | SherryScotland’s tiniest distillery started operation in 2013, producing both gin, and its ‘uisga beatha’ spirits, which is malted barley spirit too young to be legally called Scotch Whisky.

Strathearn guarantees that every batch of whisky produced will be unique. Some will be double-distilled, some triple, using a mixture of peated and unpeated malt, as well as a variety of 50-litre casks, includ-ing Sherry, rum and Bourbon. The intense contact with the wood in these 50-litre casks provides very interesting flavours without needing much maturation time.

Strathearn have been at the forefront of the craft distilling movement in Scotland since almost its beginnings with Tony Reeman-Clark helping to create the Scottish Craft Distillers Association and the distill-ery producing several great gins.

Eden Mill Distillery Guardbridge, St AndrewsProduces: Gin | Whisky | BeerAs Scotland’s first single-site distillery and brewery, making gin, whisky and beer, Eden Mill spirit is created in copper pot-stills and exhibits a wide range of flavours from botanicals sourced from the local area, as well as from around the world.

St Andrews is the renowned home of golf, and the arts of brewing and distilling were once integral to the town. Based on the site of a historic distillery on the banks of the River Eden, Eden Mill were the first to make spirits in the region for 150 years.

Eden Mill source botanicals from the local fields, forests and coasts to represent the best of Scotland. Gin fans come from far

and wide to take part in the regular gin distillery tours.

Kilchoman DistilleryIsle of Islay, ArgyllProduces: WhiskyThe Kilchoman Distillery was built in 2005, the first distillery to be established on Islay in over 124 years, with the first run of new spirit coming off the stills later that year.

Kilchoman is one of the smallest distilleries in Scotland with an annual production of approximately 120,000 litres of alcohol.

Kilchoman is one of only six distilleries to carry out traditional floor maltings, but the key difference at Kilchoman is that the barley is grown on the farm, whereas other distilleries purchase barley from around the country.

Islay was chosen as the location for the dis-tillery because of it’s reputation worldwide for producing top quality malts. Rockside Farm was chosen because of the ideal build-ings available and because the farm grows the best malting barley on the island.

Wolfburn Distillery Thurso, Caithness Produces: Whisky

Originally founded in 1821 Wolfburn dis-tillery quickly became the largest distillery in Caithness and a significant producer of malt whisky. No one quite knows when the distillery ceased production but it believed to be sometime in the 1860’s. The original distillery was constructed from hardy local Caithness flagstone and the remains of its foundations can still be seen today.

The new Wolfburn distillery building is just a short walk along the burn from the old site towards the sea. Thurso is the most northerly town on the British mainland with records dating back to Viking times. Thurso Bay and the distillery overlook the waters of the Pentland Firth.

Th new Wolfburn distillery began produc-tion in 2013 and continues to distill, mature and bottle on site in Thurso. They mature their spirit in a combination of second fill american oak quarter casks, first fill american oak ex bourbon casks and first and second fill spanish oak ex sherry casks producing a variety of interesting flavours.

The Glasgow Distillery CompanyHillington, GlasgowProduces: Gin | Whisky | VodkaFounded in 2014 The Glasgow Distill-ery Company takes its name from one of Glasgow’s original distilleries. Founded at Dundashill in 1770, the distillery was known, for a time, as The Glasgow Distill-ery Company and remained active until the beginning of the 20th Century.

As the first Single Malt Whisky Distillery in Glasgow in 110 years, The Glasgow Distillery Company is re-establishing the metropolitan Scotch Malt Whisky tradition alongside the great whisky regions and bringing Glasgow Malt Whisky back to life.

Using traditional methods alongside innova-tive new techniques, they have developed a strong portfolio of award winning premium brands and their first single malt whisky is due for release later this year.

A founding member of The Scottish Craft Distillers Association, founders Liam Hughes, Mike Hayward and Ian McDou-gall, hope that the establishment of the first Glasgow Distillery in over 100 years heralds the start of a whole new age of distilling in Glasgow.

All the distilleries mentioned are run by passionate people working hard to produce quality products. They all offer tours and tastings at their distilleries to walk you through their distilling process and history. You can use the following contact details to find more infor-mation or to book your tour:

Kingsbarns Distillery: East Newhall Farm, Kingsbarns, Fife, KY16 8QE | t: 01333 451300 | e: [email protected] | w: www.kingsbarnsdistillery.com

Isle Of Harris Distillery: Tarbert, Isle of Harris, HS3 3DJ | t: 01859 502212 | e: [email protected] | w: www.harrisdistillery.com

Pickering’s Distillery: Summerhall Distillery, Summerhall, Edinburgh, EH9 1PL | t: 0131 290 2124 | e: [email protected] | w: www.pickeringsgin.com

Strathearn Distillery: Bachilton Farm Steading, Methven, Perth, PH1 3QX | t: 01738 840100 | e: [email protected] | w: www.strathearndistillery.com

Eden Miss Distillery: Main St, Guardbridge, St Andrews KY16 0UU | t: 01334 834038 | w: www.edenmill.com

Kilchoman Distillery: Rockside Farm, Bruichladdich, Isle of Islay, Argyll PA49 7UT | e: [email protected] | w: www.kilchomandistillery.com

Wolfburn Distillery: Wolfburn Distillery, Henderson Park, Thurso, Caithness, KW14 7XW | t: 01847 891 051 | e: [email protected] | w: www.wolfburn.com

The Glasgow Distillery Compa-ny: Hillington, Deanside Road, Glasgow, G52 4XB | t: 0141 404 7191 | w: www.glasgowdistillery.com

Glasgow Distillery - Casks

Isle of Harris Distillery - GMP Dukes

Glasgow Distillery - Spirit Still - Mhari

Isle of Harris Distillery

Kingsbarns Distilley

Strathearn Distillery - Scottish Craft Distillers Association



36 37Jeremy Davies Last Day 106 - visit

PRAISE BE TO SALISBURY

With a majestic cathedral nestled at its centre and some of the finest examples of mediaeval and Georgian architecture in the

UK, Salisbury certainly ticks all the boxes for a weekend away.



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Salisbury Museum: The Kings House, 65 The Close, Salisbury, SP1 2EN. t: 01722 332 151 w: salisburymuseum.org.ukSalisbury Cathedral: Don’t miss the Cathedral Tower Tour and make sure you check out the 1215 Magna Carta, one of only four left in the world and a building block of UK Law and our civil rights today. With time on your hands, the Medieval Turret Clock dating from about AD 1386, and believed to be the oldest working mechanical clock in the world, will keep you ticking along nicely. w: salisburycathedral.org.uk

Waitrose Cookery School: Waitrose Cookery School, Churchill Way West, Salisbury, SP2 7TS. T: 01722 329429

Live Escape Salisbury: An immersive adventure to determine the fate of the missing scientists! 49c Castle Street, Salisbury, SP1 3SP t:07917 701797 e: [email protected] w: live-escape.co.uk

Salisbury City Tours: Run by a group of fully qualified Blue Badge guides, who are passionate about Salisbury and love to share sharing their history, myths and legends with you. (0) t:+44 (0) 7873 212941 e: [email protected] w: salisburycityguides.co.uk

Stonehenge: Best to visit the English Heritage website for a comprehensive overview of events, opening times and prices - w: english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/stonehenge/

Where to stay: St Ann’s House, 32-34 St. Ann Street, Salisbury,Wiltshire SP1 2DP t: +44 (0)7715 213146 e: [email protected] w: stannshouse.co.ukGrasmere Hotel, Grasmere House Hotel, 70 Harnham Road, Salisbury, Wiltshire t: +44(0) 1722 338 388 e: [email protected] w: grasmerehotel.com

Where to eat:Baroushka, Fisherton Street, Salisbury, Wilts, SP2 7QY - Authentic Middle Eastern dining experience.t: 01722 327628 Fisherton Mill, Gallery, Café and Artists Studio,108 Fisherton Street, Salisbury, SP2 7QY t: 01722 415121 / 01722 500200.

A special thanks to Wiltshire for hosting this trip for VIESTRA Magazine. For further information about visiting Wiltshire please check out www.visitwiltshire.co.uk

Salisbury hadn’t really been on the radar until a chance one hour stop off in the dead of winter ensured a return visit. Paul Williams explores the traditional haunts and seeks out a few quirky attractions in one of England’s most beautiful mediaeval cities.

Arriving on a quiet Monday afternoon after a two hour drive from Viestra HQ in London, I checked in to Saint Anns guesthouse, a beautiful upmarket B&B with a wonderful boutique Annex flat that I was lucky to have use of. After meeting the wonderful owner, Lebe, I dropped off my luggage and had a quick wander to get my bearings. Saint Anns guesthouse couldn’t be more per-fectly situated. Slap bang in the middle of the city, with cathedral views to boot, it really is first place of choice given its high standard and location.

Like every major provincial town in England, there is a great deal of history harking back to The Dark ages and be-yond but, one of the major attractions of Salisbury is its prehistoric heritage.

After an amble through quaint medi-aeval streets and taking in the serenity of Cathedral Square I spent a couple of hours in the Salisbury museum. As expected, here you’ll find all you need to know about the city and its origins and the rich prehistoric significance of the surrounding countryside. Ok, just how many flint heads can you look at, but visitors really should take time to take in exactly how important Wiltshire’s geology was, and ancient peoples were, stamping this area and giving Salisbury its early founda-tions-from the ancient settlement of Sarum to the modern day cultural hub it is today, all you need to know about the city is here.

After a quick cuppa in the Boston Tea

Party tea rooms, where a kindly lady offered to knit me a hat after noticing a hole in my current head garb, I made my way to possibly Salisbury’s coolest attraction - the escape rooms on Castle Street. Quite simply this place is ace!

Run, devised and hosted by Charlie and Claire Pitcher, you are trapped in a series of rooms laden with clues and puzzles that will give you a secret code to break free from the confides of the strange, unsettling atmosphere of a secret chemical laboratory. An absolute must for anyone with a penchant for code breaking but seriously great fun for the uninitiated. The Salisbury escape rooms has various accolades and is consistently highly rated by aficionados of what is becoming a bit of a sub culture.

The guys here are really pushing this into a major pull for visitors to the city, so if you’re a couple, group or maybe on a biz trip with a bunch of col-leagues, give this a go-you will love it!Staying in for a restful night at St Anns, the next day saw me head off to the beautiful Cathedral for a whis-tle-stop tour. Now, I’m not going to go in depth on this as I simply can’t do it justice, but Salisbury’s great-est monument to the Christian faith is unbelievable - magical, graceful, beautiful, astounding.....feel free to add your own adjectives. One thing you must do though is the Tower tour to the base of the Spire - without fail. I was so lucky on that wet Tuesday morning to be shown the internal intricacies and imposing strength of the building, by the wonderful Tricia Glass, her knowledge encapsulating me as she told me the history of the cathedral. And hark! The bonus –‘...and we have a pair of nesting Peregrine Falcons nesting here, and if you stick around you might see...hang on, THERE’S

ONE!’. Brilliant.

Unfortunately, weather was not on our side so the view over Salisbury was a little dull, but on a clear day you won’t be disappointed. A cathedral visit is a no-brainer and remember - take a guided tour-better than the obligatory headphones, if you catch my drift!That afternoon was spent at the Waitrose cookery school, great fun and made me realise just how bad a cook or in this case, Baker I am! Hosted by chef Andrew Roberts, the course is around 2 hours and we were set up for baking macarons (not macaroons, they have coconut in them). Partnered up with Becky, who had come down from Basingstoke for another visit (she was that impressed), we had a good laugh prepping and getting these things to fruition. Andrew was a great host, but must have the patience of a saint-give it a whirl-literally!

After checking into the Grasmere Ho-tel for the second night, a great room, with wonderful views over the Avon, I headed back into town to meet Salis-bury tour guide Lorna Matthews-Keel.

Starting off outside the tourist office in Fish Row, I was cheerfully marched through the streets, enthralled by the stories of ye olde Salisbury, told with such gusto and enthusiasm, I was gripped. As obvious as it may seem, I’ve always said a local guide is the best way to get to know a place and this just goes to prove that point. Then of course, Stonehenge. The visitors centre here reveals the sheer size, importance and other-worldliness of this UNESCO World Heritage site - a visit is compulsory. Walk in the footsteps of our Neolithic ancestors and get to know one of the most iconic prehistoric monuments in the World.

You can explore the ancient landscape on foot and step inside the Neolith-ic Houses to discover the tools and objects of everyday Neolithic life and come face to face with 5,500 year-old man.

There is a brilliant exhibition on presently, called FEAST!, exploring the diet of the Neolithic people who built and used the monument 4500 years ago.

The Wiltshire city of Salisbury has to be on anyone’s top 10 list of places to visit in England and with two of the best guides I have ever had the privi-lege of meeting, I cannot recommend enough. Do check out the Escape Rooms and make the most of your stay here – 36 hours just isn’t enough.

Salisbury Cathedral cloisters - credit Ash Mills

St Anns Guest House

Stonehenge

Salisbury Cathedral cloisters - credit Ash MillsVisitors at the West Window - photography Ash Mills Visitor in dappled light in the cloisters - Ash Mills 2015

DESTINATION UKDESTINATION UK


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COSTA RICA: THE NEXT BIG THING IN WELLNESS

Nestled between Nicaragua and Panama, Costa Rica offers visitors an abundance of unique wildlife, landscapes and climates meaning a trip to this Central American country is anything but run of the

mill. The country proudly shelters approximately five percent of the known biodiversity in the world and has become a global

leader in sustainable practices. Visitors to Costa Rica enjoy a highly organized tourism infrastructure offering a broad terrain of

activities and accommodations.

WORDS BY ROB TINDALL

Photo by Leonora (Ellie) Enking via Wikimedia Commons

COSTA RICA: PURA VIDA COSTA RICA: PURA VIDA

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Costa Rica offers a huge number of authentic natural wellness experiences for all visitors looking for a healing holiday. These activities include yoga, meditation, earthing, forest bathing, treatments with hot springs, thalassotherapy amongst others, and can be carried out in pleasant and tranquil natural spaces throughout the country. Smoking volcanoes, dense virgin forests, unique wildlife and endless tropical beaches make this Central American paradise one of the most diverse places on earth for a healing holiday. See our roundup of the top five iconic Costa Rican wellness experiences below:

1. Reconnect with nature at a wellness retreatCosta Rica is the place to disconnect from the world. Visitors can swap technology and tweeting for an energising morning yoga session in a rainforest, a midday jungle trek and an afternoon surf lesson in a laidback Caribbean coastal town. They can reboot and recharge at one of the country’s wellness hotels, many of which have practitioners which focus on the mind as much as the body.

2. Live the Pura Vida lifestyleCosta Rica is not only renowned for being one of the happiest places on Earth, but also one where people live the longest. The Nicoya Peninsula has one of the highest percentages of centenarians in the world, and the region has been declared as an official ‘blue zone’ (one of five geographic areas in the world where people live statistically longest) by explorer and researcher Dan Buettner.

Visitors should live this ‘Pura Vida’ lifestyle whilst in Costa Rica, taking home new healthy habits, starting with its healthy food based mainly on grains including rice and beans (called “gallo pinto” when mixed). No trip is complete without drinking the calcium-rich water, indulging in the fresh fruits and sampling the local coffee. Other Pura Vida wellness experiences can include ‘forest baths’ (breathing in the fresh air of the forest) and ‘earthing’ (barefoot walks on the earth/sand). Reaching 100 is not guaranteed, but relaxation is!

3. Drop off the radarVisitors hoping for a slice of Zen should head to the lesser known corner of Costa Rica – the Osa Peninsula. Located on the

South Pacific coast, this region is a haven for those looking to experience complete unspoilt beauty and escape Wi-Fi. The opportunities for exploration are endless; iconic activities include watching the magnificent humpback whale migration, exploring the mangroves by kayak and the beaches and mountains on a recreational cycling tour, bird-watching, yoga, forest bathing and having a healthy organic meal on the beach. The area is also home to Corcovado National Park, the largest of Costa Rica’s parks and home to some of the most unique wildlife in the world.

4. Learn something newAs well as being a wellness oasis, Costa Rica is an adventure playground. Being active and outdoors is a vital aspect of the ‘Pura Vida’ ethos and something which is an integral part to any wellness holiday to the country. Visitors can expect sunrise yoga, beach Pilates and al

...swap technology and tweeting for an energising morning yoga session in a rainforest, a midday jungle trek

and an afternoon surf lesson...

fresco group meditation. However they can also learn something new and challenging, such as surfing, horse riding, bird watching and paddle boarding.

5. Enjoy the volcanic hot springsNo wellness holiday to Costa Rica is complete without a visit to the hot springs, which are said to have healing and restorative properties due to the high mineral content. Visitors can harness the water for personal renewal by letting positive energy flow throughout the body. Arenal, Rincon de la Vieja, Miravalles Volcano, Orosi area, Perez Zeledon and the Caribbean are the country’s best destinations for thermal soaks, some of them boasting highly-rated hot springs, mud baths and spa facilities.

For more information about booking a trip go to: www.visitcostarica.com & www.costarica.com

PERFECT WELLNESS HOLIDAY DESTINATION PERFECT WELLNESS HOLIDAY DESTINATION


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COCO OCEAN RESORT AND SPA THE GAMBIA

I have always thought of The Gambia in West Africa as a perfect introduction to the African continent.

The smallest of its numerous countries, the slimmest too! Closely hugging the snaking river for around 200 miles that gives the country it’s name.

Known as the ‘smiling coast’ The Gambia being an English speaking country makes it perfect for the first time tourist from the UK to feel even more at

home in ‘Easy Africa’, as I call it. Easy to reach and a popular winter sun destination one of its luxury secrets surely has to be the Coco Ocean Resort and Spa regarded by many in West

Africa as one of the top hotels in that region.

WORDS AND PICTURES BY GEOFF MOORE WWW.THETRAVELTRUNK.NET

EDITOR’S CHOICE EDITOR’S CHOICE

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Lovingly designed and built by Farid Bensouda and Walter Nettlau their vision of ten years ago is now reaching its full potential. Many large hotels have the luxury of legions of designer’s and planners. Not the case for Farid and Walter who shared construction and design tasks over several years and which are now providing the delightful ambience for their guests with a balanced mix of Moroccan and African styling. The gardens that they hoped would provide a lush backdrop and palm tree avenues in the grounds are now as they wished or even better than even they anticipated, I think? Growing along with the forest of palms is the key as to why Coco Ocean is such a hit with holidaymakers, presidents, ambassadors etc. It is its staff! Returning to a hotel and seeing so many familiar faces even after several years of my absence was special. Staffs that were once waiters or receptionists are now captains, supervisors or managers of their own departments. A hotel is often only as good as its staff and here they seem to know the right way of retaining, training and having staff that know who you are, even after 10 years! Nestling next to a broad yellow sandy beach and

the relatively warm Atlantic Ocean washing in as the tropical sun ensures that a comfortable warm temperature is maintained in The Gambia during our northern winter back in UK. Its great draw is certainly its extensive spa. Located at the hotel’s centre with numerous and varied treatments available in its 13 rooms for massages, facials and pedicures. Their most popular treatment is their Hamam style experience with then a massage carried out on a heated marble table in their separate men’s and women’s facilities. A large seating area to unwind in with a generous warm pool to help relax those muscles and mind even more. Their indoor fitness centre for those that need to pump iron, cycle or run on a treadmill looks out to sea through the tropical palms. Room styles vary around the hotel. The Beach Club Villas with large outdoor terraces are very popular and also the Royal Suites, which gives you the luxury of your own enclosed swimming pool. Smaller Junior suites are dotted around the complex and there are a selection of similar Dome Suite rooms situated around the upper levels of the main reception building. All rooms have the ‘Farid style’ and influence. He wanted to ensure that the things he appreciated himself as a guest would be there for his own guests too! A terrace of three stepped swimming pools for those that prefer that choice of exercise. The ‘Bantaba’ style (a type of covered sitting place often where the men of The Gambia sit and talk in the heat of the day) shaded sun beds line the beachfront and are a good sun-safe choice. However the helpful pool and beach attendants will see you have a perfect location either under a coconut palm or in full sun for that tan on the sand itself.

There are many excursions possible from the hotel if you want to see more of the country. A country where some of its wild life actually comes to you! A troop of Green Vervet monkeys at around 4pm each day appear to then graze off flowers and shrubs in the gardens or cheekily sometimes try to head to the hotel’s kitchen garden. Where beans and carrots are on their menu if the gardeners don’t chase them away first! Their antics in and around the hotel are highly amusing as tiny babies and larger parents shepherd the troop around swinging off shrubs and trees or tumbling and chasing each other. Having a very flat landscape its hard to sometimes make sense of the country so a trip to Makasuta Nature Reserve is a way to see and understand more about the country and its animals, music and culture all on one tour, great value I thought? There, low down, I had close-up views of some of the exotic bird from a dugout canoe in the tidal mangroves but then also from above from there 30metre high tree top tower lookout too. Just a short distance away I was with a large troop of Baboons again more antics from them. One plucky male was quick to zoom in on one visitor’s banana that they left un-attended and it was taken peeled and consumed in seconds as he ran deftly along a wall to make his escape! Another trip I would recommend is to the fishing port of Tanji or rather a fishing beach! Dozens of colourful wooden painted pirogues drop off their harvests of the sea. Women and men wade out with baskets or bowls in the surf to bring the catch safely to shore to be sold either there on the beach and further inland or in the surrounding West African countries. Large smoke houses or fish drying racks surround the thronging beach, as swarms of people go about their various piscatorial tasks. A smell of fish mixed with wood smoke pervades the air. Chatter and yelling as the rollers pound in on the beach to add the sea’s contribution to the cacophony. Quite a spectacle and well worth putting it on your to do list. As is a stay at Coco Ocean! A stylish relaxing winter sun get-a-way located in the same UK time zone and just over 5 hours away to get that rest in the West. Africa that is! http://cocoocean.com/

Women and men wade out with baskets or bowls in the surf to

bring the catch safely to shore to be sold

EDITOR’S CHOICE EDITOR’S CHOICE


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VINOS DE LA GOMERA: DISCOVER THE CANARY

ISLANDS’ UNTAPPED WINE DESTINATION

The best things in life are meant to be savoured, like a fine, full-bodied wine. And when it comes to fine wine, Spain

remains one of the most fascinating countries in the world, with many wine producing regions and styles to explore.

Often, connoisseurs and sommeliers are quick to highlight Spain’s famous winemaking regions, such as La Rioja and the Basque Country. But to discover the delights of Spain’s most exclusive wines, you’ll have to travel far beyond the

mainland to La Gomera.


VINOS DE LA GOMERA VINOS DE LA GOMERA

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Winemaking in La Gomera

Due to La Gomera’s rugged landscape, the cultivation of wine is an arduous task. Growers must overcome steep gullies and dizzying heights before they can harvest the island’s highly prized grapes. As a result, many terraced vineyards surround the island’s medianías (areas between 600 and 1,500 metres above sea level), such as Hermigua to the north and Vallehermoso to the west. The steeper the slopes, the smaller the terraces, and many of these crop-growing areas are propped up by solid stone walls.

In these small vineyards, most of the work is still done by hand. Traditionally, the vines were left to grow along the ground but are now trained along trellises. Imbued with this industrious spirit, La Gomera’s unique grapes then come to our tables in the form of wine.

The Wines of La Gomera

Since 2003, La Gomera’s wines are protected by the Guarantee of Origin, “Denominación de Origen La Gomera.” These wines are smooth, aromatic and balanced in the mouth, and their exclusive characteristics owe to a

combination of the island’s distinctive features, including its mountain topography, volcanic soil, micro-climates and human factor.

La Gomera’s mountain elevations and mineral-rich soil provide exceptional conditions for the production of dry, acidic whites. These flagship whites are made from Forastera Gomera grapes, which account for 90% of the island’s vines but aren’t grown anywhere else in the world. Forastera grapes have grown here for more than four hundred years, and from a winemaking point of view, it is the most valued variety on the island due to its notably acidic nature, which gives it a fresh, balanced taste.

La Gomera’s red wines, on the other hand, are made from Listan Negro grapes typical of the Canary Islands or blended with Tintilla, Tempranillo, Negro Molle and other varieties. These wines burst with fruity aromas and berry flavours before finishing dry and balanced.

Today, the La Gomera wine region consists of 13 vineyards (bodegas), which produce 30,000 litres of wine every year. For a magical experience, enjoy a glass of La Gomera wine on a restaurant terrace while taking in the views of the island’s vineyards.

About La Gomera

La Gomera is renowned for being one of the most rural, authentic and visual of the Canary Islands. Flights run regularly from the UK to Tenerife, where visitors can then enjoy a short ferry ride to the island within 50 minutes. Alternatively, flights to Tenerife North are available from the UK, where guests can then board a 30-minute connecting flight to La Gomera.

For more information, please visit lagomera.travel/en.

Boasting a spectacular volcanic terrain, the second smallest Canary is home to some of Europe’s oldest vines. In fact, thanks to the island’s secluded location, vines can be hundreds of years old, resulting in vintages that ooze with complexity, history and tradition. And when you taste them, you’ll also be drinking the island’s rich culture.

Mirador-del-Bailadero. Los-Roques

Puesta-de-sol

Mirador-Hermigua

VINOS DE LA GOMERA VINOS DE LA GOMERA


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STARGAZING IN BORREGO SPRINGS,

CALIFORNIA

The Borrego Night Sky Tours claim that from Borrego Springs you can see ‘colourful stars, stellar clusters, planets, star-

forming nebulae, Earth-orbiting satellites, distant galaxies and more’. Imagine coming home after a day of exploring to lie under the stars and see some of those things... A sky full of

stars is something everyone should see at some point in their life. It’s incredible!


Photo by Anthony Citrano

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

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One of my very favourite things to do when I get out of the city is look up at the sky at night.

My most memorable stargazing experience was when I was staying on a yacht, we were anchored in the sea at night and I was lying on the front of the boat looking at the stars far away from any light pollution. I’ve never seen so many stars in my life. I could see thousands.

If you are interested in stargazing too, there is a great little place I can suggest to you. 2 hours East of L.A. and 3 hours North East of San Diego there is an International Dark Sky Community called Borrego Springs which is smack-bang in the middle of the desert.

Borrego Springs is located in San Diego County, California and is the only Californian town completely surrounded by a State Park. And the State Park surrounding it happens to be Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, California’s largest State Park, an expansive 600,000 acres of desert.

In Borrego Springs there are no traffic lights (or ‘stop lights’ as the Americans call them) and the night time lighting is kept to a minimum to keep the night sky unspoiled by manmade light. The town prides itself on being a slow paced small town that likes to make visitors feel at home.

The Borrego Night Sky Tours claim that from Borrego Springs you can see ‘colourful stars, stellar clusters, planets, star-forming nebulae, Earth-orbiting satellites, distant galaxies and more’. Imagine coming home after a day of exploring to lie under the stars and see some of those things... A sky full of stars is something everyone should see at some point in their life. It’s incredible.

Borrego Springs is well-known for things other than just galaxy gazing. There is a big art scene which starts with the Galleta Meadows Sculptures: over 130 life size metal sculptures, following a theme similar to ‘Jurassic Park’, dot the landscape around Borrego Springs.

Some of the sculptures were inspired by fossils of extinct animals found in the area and some are figments of artist, Ricardo Breceda’s, imagination. You can get a map from the tourist office to find where they are and the

Borrego Night Sky Tours: Treat yourself or your family to a truly inspiring and personalized tour of the cosmos above Borrego Springs—California’s first and only International Dark Sky Community—with the power of a large telescope and one of America’s favorite celestial tour guides: www.borregonightskytours.com

California Travel Information: www.visitcalifornia.com/attraction/borrego-springs

Ricardo Breceda: Borrego Springs’ very own resident artist: www.ricardobreceda.com

Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival: www.coachella.com

story behind each sculpture. Some people travel to Borrego Springs just to see the sculptures and they’re hard to miss.

If you are also interested in ancient art there have been more than 50 discoveries of petroglyphs and pictographs left on cliffs and boulders by the Native American tribes who once called the Anza-Borrego Desert home.

Many of the pieces of art mark sacred locations where ceremonies would have been held. Many of the markings are not publicised to protect them, however you can visit the Pictograph Trail in Little Blair Valley which leads to a boulder covered in red and yellow images painted by the Kumeyaay Native Americans as much as 2,000 years ago.

Grapefruit seasons in Borrego Springs starts in late December and ends when the grapefruit have all been eaten. There are many stalls around town where you can get yourself some freshly grown citrus fruit. No importing and shipping, just fresh fruit straight from the tree, like it should be.Anza-Borrego is known for it’s large variety of springtime wildflowers which can cover the ground in spectacular colours and smells between February and March. There are spots of wildflowers around the town of Borrego Springs and also further afield

in Anza-Borrego Desert.

Different flowers bloom at different times and they only bloom for a couple of weeks at a time so you have to be quick if there’s a specific flower you want to see. The best time to go and see the wildflowers is after a wet winter, like the one San Diego had this year. 2017 was a great year for the springtime wild flowers which were in full bloom. The roads do get busy around this time of year so it’s suggested to see the flowers during the week.

Apart from these seasonal events there are also year round activites you can enjoy due to the year round sun in the desert. There are four golf courses in Borrego Spring for those who like to relax by playing a game or two of golf. There are plenty of hiking trails and you can camp out at night (however you must check the rules before camping so as not to disturb nature), and there are many scenic drives you can take. Cycling is also a very popular sport in this area, especially during the winter months when other parts of the country are covered in snow and ice.

And if you feel like timing your visit with the popular Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival in April it’s only a 1.5 hour drive away. A few upbeat days of music followed by a few relaxing nights of stargazing sounds like a great combination to me.

Whatever time of year you choose to visit Borrego Springs and the Anza-Borrego Desert, the clear night sky will always be there for you to see, clear and far away from the pollution of the city lights. The lights from the Milky Way will be the only light you’ll need to brighten your evenings with.

For more information visit: www.visitcalifornia.com/attraction/borrego-springs

No importing and shipping, just fresh

fruit straight from the tree, like it should be

Photo by Hero Miguel Vieira

Photo by Lars Dugaiczyk

Photo by Daniel

Photo by Dan Keeney

Photo by Randy Heinitz

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK OFF THE BEATEN TRACK


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FLÅM: A NORDIC DREAM

As summer ends and autumn creeps, in the Norwegian fjords become almost ethereal, their magical appeal becoming just that more prevalent. Nestled at the end of a privately owned

railway and sitting on the banks of the UNESCO listed Nærøyfjord (Nearoyfjord), a branch of the vast Sognefjord, The Flamsbrygga Hotel in the village of Flåm is one of the

most idyllic places you’ll ever visit.


Photo by Anthony Citrano

Aurland towards Flam – Photo: sverrehjornevik.com/Flåm AS

FLÅM: A NORDIC DREAM FLÅM: A NORDIC DREAM

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After a couple of nights in Bergen I caught the train from the city‘s main station for a 2.5 hour journey to Myrdal, the quickest and most scenic way to get to Flåm.

Journey by road can take up to 3 hours (this is the main road between Oslo and Bergen and is open all year, this section is never closed due to weather), so taking the train is a no-brainer. The Norwegian rail service is fantastic, efficient timetable, plenty of space on the carriages with wifi etc., and an abundance of interesting passengers to chat to.

The countryside, as expected, is simply beautiful and the falling snow gave a wonderful ambience to the journey.

Arriving at Myrdal station, I changed trains to join the privately owned Flåm Railway (Flåmsbana) that would take me to the Flamsbrygga Hotel. This quaint and amazingly maintained railway is one you have to experience, and any train boffins would simply adore it. Waterfalls, deep valleys and dramatic landscapes, make for one of the world’s must do train journeys. It’s worth noting that the railway was named the world’ s most incredible train journey by Lonely Planet in 2014.

Flåm is a major tourist destination and during the summer months, large cruise ships visit the area. I have visited here briefly during that time and it does get extremely busy. To give you an idea, each year, several hundred thousand visitors arrive in the tiny village, but don’t let that dissuade you from visiting – just bear in mind that the restaurant and hotels are pretty much fully booked, so be a good idea to plan your trip well in advance.

In times past, Flåm was popular with fly- fishing, so worth noting the Flåmselvi river has been closed to fishing for a few years; but the river 10km away in Aurland is open for fly-fishing, and if you’re a keen cyclist, the Rallarvegen (“The Navvies’ Road”), one of the most scenic and popular bicycle rides in Norway, is easily accessible from the village.

The Flamsbrygga Hotel is ornately Norwegian, its main structure made from wood with a striking facade and wonderful interior - best described (if you’re not familiar with Nordic design) as a cross between a Scottish manorhouse and an Alpine ski Lodge. Hope you catch my drift, no pun intended.

Warmly welcomed and given a brief overview of the amenities, I made my way up to the third floor to my room, an ensuite looking over the Fjord. The room was cosy with a lovely rustic edge, a perfect base for a few days of Norwegian solitude.

What is striking about the Flamsbrygga is its location: stunning mountains, the deep clear waters of the Fjord and the nearby river are breathtaking.

Adjacent to the hotel is what is fittingly described as aVikings dining hall, the Ægir Brew Pub, the flagship establishment of the nearby Ægir Brewery, one of the most successful handcraft breweries in Norway that has started exports to the UK.

And this is where I dined on the first evening.

The place is owned by the local brewery that exports across Europe and North America. The actual pub has an on-site microbrewery with the amazing aforementioned Viking banqueting hall, above which is a normal dining area.

The food is typical Nordic fair, meat and fish dishes reign supreme, all cooked to a high standard, beautifully presented and incredibly tasty. Just be prepared for a hearty meal – you’ll probably have to try and make this the only thing you eat on the day you visit!

There are plenty of things to do around the village of Flåm including walks and cycle rides, but the real kick for those seeking adventure is the unbelievable Fjord Safari.

I turned up wearing what I thought would be enough clothing to endure the cold winds we would experience - I could not have been more wrong! Given two layers of thermal stuff to put on top of what I was already wearing, I was then given a massive survival suit and climbed aboard the rib that would take us at pace to explore the waters and surrounds. On-board were eight others and our Skipper Per was informative and a good laugh to boot. As we left the sanctuary of Flåm, I looked over my shoulder to see the sun setting behind the mountains, illuminating the surface of the Fjord - you’d think you were on a different planet. The beauty of nature and our place within it really rings true here, sheer wonder.

Per, a local himself, told us about the amazing history going back to Viking days of the area. I love this – rich folklore mixed with the historicity of the Viking tribes – a little more special for us Brits bearing in mind the old Viking Kingdom reached as far as Anglesey- the UK connection with Norway goes back a long, long way maintaining a special relationship to this day following the allied assistance during World War II.

Turning a corner we made our way further up the field passing an amazing bed-and-breakfast perched on a mountaintop that is only accessible by boat and then an arduous track by foot up to the main house. Looking up at this place I really got an impression of complete solitude, something that at some point in my life I’d love to experience there. We pulled in to a small village of Undredal where we were encouraged to enjoy its famous brown goat’s cheese and a welcoming hot beverage. The village is home to an ancient church established in the 11th century – smallest stave church in Northern Europe. It’s still in use to this day, serving the community and several others in the vicinity.

If you come at the right time of year you will see some fantastic marine wildlife including porpoises, Dwarf Sperm whales, seals, and keep your eyes open for the magnificent birds of prey that can be seen on patrol about the mountains.

The fjord Safari is an adventure suitable for everyone, with customers from 4 – 80 years old enjoying the wonderful trips.

After a windswept jaunt across the waters, sustenance will be required, trust me! I popped into the local Flåm Marina and Appartement Cafe,where you can enjoy a pizza and beer for around £30. With friendly, attentive staff and views across the fjord, this quaint cafe is a great place to wind down. If pizza’s not your thing, several restaurants serve local and traditional foods such as cured ham, game, lamb, salmon, goat cheese, fruit, and berries and of course you have the magnificent Ægir Brew Pub to contend with.

After what seemed like a sleep that would rival that achieved by Rip Van Winkle, the next day saw us head for the the dramatic Stegastein viewing platform, a ‘sky deck’ that juts out high above the Aurlandsfjord. It simply knocks you for six, and words cannot describe what you see from here. When in Flåm, visit this. The mirrored sky in the waters below is an enduring sight, a memory etched for life. With panoramic views of the Aurlandsfjord, the platform hovers 30 metres out from the side of the mountain and has garnered attention far beyond the Norwegian borders being recognised by various institutes and receiving numerous distinctions for ‘exiting’ architecture.

The Flamsbryyga Hotel and Flåm itself are now in my top 10 destinations worldwide. Norway is a beautiful country with wonderful people, amazing landscapes and fascinating histories that will enthral you from here to the other side of eternity. Go immerse yourself.

A special thanks to Monna and Ann-Kristin at the Flamsbrygga – thank you for your hospitality, patience and time, fantastic people!

Further info:

• Ægir Viking Plank in Ægir BrewPub – 5 course menu with beer tastingNOK 1145 per personBook: www.flamsbrygga.no • Stay at Flåmsbrygga Hotel – the Brewery HotelBook: www.flamsbrygga.no • Activities in Flåm – FjordSafari, Snowshoe hiking, customiced tripsBook: www.fjordsafari.com • The Flåm Railway from NOK 360 per personBook: www.visitflam.com

• Sightseeing bus to Stegastein viewpoint, round trip price from NOK 315 per personBook: www.visitflam.com • Sighsteeing boat Flåm – Gudvangen – Flåm, NOK 530 per personBook: www.visitflam.com • Round trip Norway in a Nutshell – train Bergen – Flåm, boat Flåm – Gudvangen, bus Gudvangen – Voss and train Voss – Bergen NOK 1440 per personBook: www.fjordtours.com • Train Bergen – Flåm, NOK 669 per personBook: www.nsb.no Bus Bergen – Flåmwww.nor-way.no

Stegastein Viewpoint - Photo: sverrehjornevik.com/Flåm AS

All aboard for the Fjord Safari – Phto: Thea Hermansen;

Myrdal Station on the Flåm valley - Photo: Paul Edmundson/Flåm AS

Myrdal Station – Photo: VisitFlåm/Jonny Akselsen

FLÅM: A NORDIC DREAM FLÅM: A NORDIC DREAM


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THE VIESTRA HOLIDAY AND TRAVEL DIRECTORY THE VIESTRA HOLIDAY AND TRAVEL DIRECTORY

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