1 Birdquest: Hawaii 2006

HAWAII

28 MARCH – 9 APRIL 2006

TOUR REPORT LEADERS: JÁNOS OLÁH and DAVID KUHN Hawaii! Most people just imagine the splendid beaches, lovely azure blue ocean, volcanoes rising steeply out of the sea and the best waves for surfing in the world. For eco-travellers and especially for birdwatchers “these loveliest fleet of islands ever anchored in any ocean”, as Mark Twain once called the Hawaiian archipelago, are home to one of the best examples of adaptive radiation. This term is used by evolutionary biologists to describe the process when a successful colonizing species rapidly diverges into several new species as, with little or no competition, it fills previously empty ‘ecological niches’. Indeed 98% of the naturally occurring bird species are endemic on the Hawaiian Islands and they also have an endemic family, the Hawaiian Honeycreepers! However among conservationists today’s Hawaii is known as the battleground between an endangered native fauna and flora and a large cast of relentless invasive species. While an entire set of awesome flightless birds had already slipped into oblivion upon the arrival of the first Polynesian settlers many centuries ago, the discovery of this remote string of islands by ‘western man’ unleashed another series of perils upon the original avifauna. Today only 17 of over 40 Hawaiian Honeycreepers or Drepanids (below often referred to as ‘dreps’) are known to survive, and seeing most of these requires a visit to lush higher-elevation forests where mosquitoes carrying the lethal avian malaria haven’t caused havoc yet. On our 2006 tour we obtained great views of 13 of these ‘dreps’ and the last two remaining thrushes (solitaires), the Omao and the critically endangered Puaiohi! We also had superb looks at other endemics such as Nene or Hawaiian Goose, Koloa or Hawaiian Duck, ‘Io or Hawaiian Hawk, Hawaiian Stilt and all the various forms of Elepaio (considered as distinct species by some), and saw the inevitable set of introduced birds from all continents that now thrive in the islands, in addition to being immersed in a full Hawaiian natural history experience. Our journey through the archipelago started in the bustling capital of Honolulu. First on the programme was a visit to a forested valley in search of a declining Oahu endemic, the local form of Elepaio, now suggested to be a distinct species. The woods rang with the songs of White-rumped Shamas and Red-billed Leiothrixes, but after a tricky walk on the muddy trail, we finally reached a streambed where our quarry soon materialized, an inquisitive immature bird followed by a glimpse of an adult. Some sea-watching from the southeast coast produced the first Red-tailed Tropicbirds of the trip, thousands of Sooty Terns breeding on offshore Moku Manu Islet and a rare Masked Booby. Later we visited the James Campbell Wildlife Refuge on the other side of Oahu. While the reserve proper

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was closed due to the breeding season, a walk around the fringes produced all we hoped for. Top-of-the-bill was the threatened Bristle-thighed Curlew, a rare wader only known to breed in western Alaska, which scatters over a multitude of islands in the tropical Pacific to spend the winter. After we obtained great views of 16 of these whimbrel-like birds we headed to a viewpoint from which we scoped-up our first ‘Hawaiian Stilts’ and Hawaiian Coots, in addition to a gathering of Hawaiian Ducks or Koloa, though on Oahu, the latter’s gene pool has been contaminated by interbreeding with feral Mallards. The passerine fauna in this area was entirely ‘alien’ with Common Mynas, Japanese White-eyes and Red-vented Bulbuls dominating the scene, and Common Waxbills and Nutmeg Mannikins (or Scaly-breasted Munias) were also present. Finally a brief visit into the hills above Honolulu did not yield much as the severe March rains had caused a landslide preventing us from reaching the exact place we intended. Meanwhile introduced Java Sparrows, ironically threatened in their original range, were present in good numbers, and Red-whiskered Bulbuls showed nicely. The following morning a quick visit to Kapiolani Park produced the lovely Common Fairy-Terns, including a bird perched on a branch, which allowed a prolonged scope view. Later in the morning we climbed into the hills above Honolulu again and this time managed to reach the Honolulu Watershed Forest Reserve. It was not long before we heard the monotonous song of a male Oahu Amakihi, our first ‘drep’, which is nowadays one of the most successful Hawaiian Honeycreepers, obligingly sitting in a bare tree top. Nearby a multi-hued Red-billed Leiothrix was lured into view, and also Yellow-faced Grassquit and the melodious White-rumped Shama gave good views. Scenic viewpoints along the drive gave us mesmerising views of the state capital, the deep blue ocean and the surrounding mountains. Before our short flight we visited Pouhala Marsh near Pearl Harbour, which yielded mainly the same waterbirds as before with Hawaiian Stilts displaying, Hawaiian Coots and various ducks, before we were surprised to find a Snowy Egret. Apparently a great rarity in Hawaii, which David had only seen once before in the islands, some 12 years ago! A brief flight then gave us rather cloudy views of Molokai, Lanai, Kahoolawe and Maui, soon after which the towering cliffs of the Big Island started to loom ahead of us. After lunch in Hilo we headed up the road that climbs to the saddle between mighty Mauna Kea (the tallest mountain on the planet if measured from its base on the ocean floor) and Mauna Loa. After crossing barren lava fields we headed up the leeward slope of Mauna Kea into an area known as Pu’ula’au with native mamane-naio forests. California Quails, Erckel’s Francolins and Kalij Pheasants strutted by the roadside, but the bird we came for was the threatened Palila, one of the very few remaining finch-billed drepanids. We diligently listened for this endemic bird’s up-slurred whistle, and our patience eventually paid off with a splendid female bird. Hawaii Amakihis were plentiful, the Mauna Kea race of ‘Hawaii Elepaio’ nervously flitted through the under-storey and a nice male Yellow-fronted Canary sang from a treetop. An early start next morning took us to Hakalau Forest Wildlife Refuge, one of the strongholds for two declining dreps, the nuthatch-like Hawaii Creeper and the colourful Akepa. It is also a good place to see the very rare Akiapolaau. The woods rang with the varied calls of Iiwis and Apapanes, and we enjoyed many great views of these stunning drepanids as they visited the numerous red blossoms of the endemic o’hia trees. Omaos or Hawaiian Thrushes delivered their jumbling tunes with great vigour, and after stepping into the forest we all had brilliant views of one unusually sitting on the road. Later we saw many more and spotted one building a nest too. Not much later the first of our target birds materialized as David spotted our first male Akepa in a canopy of a flowering o’hia tree, which obliged for everyone. The striking orange colouration of this endangered species has to be seen to be believed and not a lot of people know that Akepa is unique among ‘dreps’ in being the only hole-nesting species. Fortunately this has allowed it to be successfully helped with nest boxes. Finally we heard the song of the Hawaii Creeper, which was soon followed by a short glimpse, sadly by the leaders only. Walking quietly through this stunning forest we had no less than eight sightings of both dark and pale morphs of the Hawaiian Hawk or I’o. By this time we concentrated on scanning the Koa trees, which are the sole habitat for the endangered Akiapolaau or ‘Aki’ as we came

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to know it. Koa tree after Koa tree were checked without success until finally we spotted another Hawaii Creeper, which gave more acceptable, although rather distant views. On the return we saw two more Hawaii Creepers with fantastic looks for everybody but the ‘Aki’ had eluded us completely. We returned to Saddle Road the next day and embarked upon our next quest, heading down the Pu’u O’o trail in ‘kipuka’ country (kipukas are isolated forest patches surrounded by lava flows), where apparently the rare ‘Aki’ had recently been found in small numbers. Full of anticipation we searched the woods on a little trail that penetrated the inside of one of the kipukas. We saw plenty of Hawaii Amakihis and Iiwis, several Elepaios (of yet another race) but no ‘Akis’. We had almost completed our walk through Koa tree country when Janet heard some sparrow like chipping which turned out to be the rarely-heard juvenile begging call of an ‘Aki’. Soon we spotted the female and juvenile of these superb birds with a peculiar long sickle-shaped bill. No other bird in the world has a beak of this form and shape, and we were all thrilled to see this legendary creature at such close range. We followed the family for almost half an hour ensuring dynamite views for everyone. We could even study the differences in the bill size and shape of the juvenile and female. And just as they disappeared an immature male ‘Aki’ showed up at the same place. Seeing three of these rarities almost together is very unusual and indeed it was the first time even for David. Still with plenty of time on our hands we decided to visit the Kona area of the Island. First we birded around the Big Island Country Club, where we saw our first group of dumb-looking Nenes, some Saffron Finches and African Silverbills. Around Kona we first headed to the Honokohau sewage works where we had a Lesser Canada Goose and several Wandering Tattlers. In the town Yellow-billed Cardinals were new to our list before we arrived at the Manuka Forest Reserve. Our target here was the ‘intermediate’ or ‘Kona’ race of the Hawaii Elepaio. After a short walk we saw a fine male so we completed our list with all the races of this endemic species. Finally, before we returned to our hotel, we briefly visited Lokowaka Lake, finishing this very special action-packed day with some water birds. After breakfast the following day, we headed for the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, and of course no one can think of Hawaii without imagining streams of lava pouring out of vents in the earth’s crust and vapour-filled craters steaming away. Though there was currently no accessible lava flow we enjoyed a great visit with birds taking a backseat for once. We walked through a large lava tube amidst forests resounding with Apapane and Omao songs. We photographed a pair of Kalij Pheasants, stood at the edge of the gaping Kilauea crater while sulphury vents blew wisps of yellow steam, and admired endless lava flows gaining a feel for the violent nature of the archipelago’s origin. Even though it was absolutely windless and not good at all for the White-tailed Tropicbirds to show, we had one as it flew around the crater walls. Just before our flight we visited some ponds in Hilo. This was very productive with an array of vagrants like Black Brant, Cackling Canada Goose, Eurasian Teal, Eurasian Wigeon and Laughing Gull. The flight to Maui took us through Honolulu airport again, where the Chinese lunch was the only memorable feature! Before settling into our hotel we drove to Kai’allaia and Kanaha ponds. By this time the gale force wind made birding difficult, but we still saw three White-faced Ibises, Green-winged Teals, Hawaiian Coots and over one hundred Hawaiian Stilts. Our prime targets in Maui were the island’s endemic ‘dreps’, or at least those that are still feasible. While the poor Poo-Uli is now down to two remaining individuals in a remote and inaccessible area, our visit to the edge of the Nature Conservancy’s Waikamoi Preserve gave us a chance for the other three endemics. The Maui Creeper or Maui Alauahio was plentiful and we had superb views of this remarkably warbler-like tiny drep, which gleans along branches like a nuthatch. Common Amakihis were numerous too, and Iiwis (which one can never get enough of!) were also present. Unfortunately the extremely elusive Maui Parrotbill did not materialize (the area we visited really being on the edge of its range) and although David heard the amazing Crested Honeycreeper or Akohekohe we could not lay eyes upon it. As the guided walk was coming to the end our chances for the parrotbill grew slimmer and slimmer. Finally we had to retreat in the early afternoon and went up Haleakalá, one of the world’s largest volcanoes, enjoying breathtaking vistas of the coast below and nearby islands

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along the way. In the alpine vegetation near the top we spotted several Chukars and Northern Mockingbirds, but the endemic silver-swords, rather reminiscent of Africa’s giant lobelias, proved more exciting! We arrived at the top in time to see the amazing moonscape of the crater, while the distant contours of the Big Island’s volcanoes rose above the clouds and a lovely sunset rounded off another fantastic day. After a picnic dinner we finished the day listening to an eerie chorus of Hawaiian Petrels calling from their burrows and flying around us. Last but not least on our itinerary was Kauai, also known as the ‘Garden Isle’. Kilauea Wildlife Refuge was first on the menu, and we had looked forward to the seabird spectacle here with great anticipation. Hundreds of Red-footed Boobies dotted the hillside, and a Wedge-tailed Shearwater showed at close range while others called from their burrows, but top-of-the-bill here was the ungainly Laysan Albatross. There were several nests in the area, one even right alongside a busy road on a golf course! A real highlight was an adult bird feeding a fluffy chick with regurgitated fish before taking off! Farther west we visited the Hanalei Wildlife Refuge, where we enjoyed nice close-ups of ‘pure’ Koloas or Hawaiian Ducks and Nenes or Hawaiian Geese, some of which were without colour-rings. We also had good views of a close by responsive Japanese Bush-Warbler. We spent late afternoon and dusk standing on Wailua Beach, seawatching and were rewarded with great scope views of hundreds of Wedge-tailed Shearwaters, regular fare such as Red-footed Boobies and finally, Alan picked up a Hawaiian Petrel, as it flew close to the shore before circling up and heading off inland at dusk. A good part of our two days on Kauai was spent in the Alakai Wilderness Area, well known as the last haunt of several now extinct Kauai endemics. Our first full day was spent on the Alakai Swamp trails where we saw most endemics we were looking for. The Kauai Elepaio was really common and we enjoyed many great looks of this superb bird. Unlike Hakalau the avian chorus here was not dominated by the amazing sounds of Iiwis. Apapane and Kauai Amakihi were very vocal, but also in the air was the commonly heard song of the Hwamei, which now seems to be numerous in the area and must undoubtedly have an impact on the native birds. The Anianiau was our next endemic, and we ended up with many good views of this little nectivorous drepanid. The odd Iiwi was seen here and there, but the population is obviously not doing as well as on the Big Island and this gorgeous species seems to face an uncertain future on Kauai. Near a meandering stream we saw our first (of only a few) Akekees or Kauai Akepas, but the much-hoped-for and critically endangered Puaiohi or Lesser Kauai Thrush did not want to show. On the way down from the Alakai we marvelled at the Waimea Canyon, which is sometimes referred to as the ‘Grand Canyon of the Pacific’. On our second full day here David took us into the remote Alakai Wilderness Area and we covered a good proportion of the Mohihi trail. We started with a bare foot stream crossing and headed up onto the plateau area. Our long hike was well worth the effort as we had excellent looks at no less then three of the critically endangered ‘Akikikis, sometimes called Kauai Creepers. The world population of this unique drep is believed to be less then 800 individuals and it is found only in the eastern Alakai nowadays, showing much the same pattern in its retreat to other native birds before they finally become extinct, like the Kama’o for instance. A great bonus was to come when suddenly David heard an easy-to-miss faint call which he instantly knew to be a Puaiohi or Lesser Kauai Thrush. We all moved quietly into the forest and found this critically endangered bird sitting on a small tree and curiously watching us. We enjoyed prolonged looks as it perched close-by. With less then 150 surviving individuals this was by far the rarest bird of the whole trip and a fantastic end to the day. Next morning we were supposed to go out on a ‘pelagic’ but the sea conditions were none too favourable. Our boat first took us to the Na Pali coast on the northwestern side of Kauai, and the mouth-dropping scenery here was so spectacular that it came as no surprise to learn that some of Jurassic Park’s aerial footage was taken here. We enjoyed great views of Laysan Albatrosses, Black Noddies, numerous Wedge-tailed Shearwaters and White-tailed Tropicbirds but unfortunately the

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crossing to Lehua Rock, off Niihau was cancelled due to windy conditions. In addition we saw about twenty Humpback Whales, some of them breaching, jumping out of the water entirely, two Common Bottle-nosed Dolphins and hundreds of Spinner Dolphins plus a couple of Green Sea Turtles. Later in the day we flew back to Oahu and rounded off the trip with a fine meal in a local restaurant. We all reminisced over our wonderful visit to this amazing archipelago, which still harbours a fascinating albeit threatened fauna and flora. It is a place one should definitely visit sooner rather than later!

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SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were not personally recorded by the leaders are indicated by the symbol (NL). DIOMEDEIDAE Laysan Albatross Diomedea immutabilis: Great close-up studies of this enormous seabird (nowadays

usually placed in the genus Phoebastria) at a golf course on Kauai. The sight of an adult feeding a chick with regurgitated fish right alongside a busy boulevard was odd to say the least. In addition we were rewarded with three birds during the boat cruise. One of the few albatross species that seems to be doing pretty well, this one is currently expanding its breeding range, and numbers seem to have recovered from a low in the early 20th century when Japanese feather-hunters took a heavy toll.

PROCELLARIIDAE Wedge-tailed Shearwater Puffinus pacificus: Many superb views of this graceful tubenose, nowadays

the most common shearwater in the main Hawaiian Islands. Our first memorable encounter was with a nesting bird at Kilauea Wildlife Refuge, with other birds calling from their nearby burrows. Later we enjoyed the thrill off seeing at least two hundred birds on the ocean from Kauai’s shoreline, and finally we must have seen about another 50 birds during our boat trip. On a worldwide scale the Wedge-tailed Shearwater is still quite numerous, with a total population of well over a million breeding pairs, though current numbers are considerably lower than former levels.

Hawaiian Petrel Pterodroma sandwichensis: Our first experience with this Hawaiian breeding endemic was our visit to the colony at Haleakalá, where we heard their eerie calls at dusk. Later Alan picked up a single bird offshore, just before dusk off Kauai. Another species in the ‘Vulnerable’ category, this highland-nester suffers from predation by introduced predators, and numbers (recently estimated to be about 20,000 birds) seem to be steadily declining. Note that the Hawaiian Islands used to be home to a second species of Pterodroma, the Gracile Petrel P. jugabilis. Remains are known from the Big Island and Oahu, and on at least the latter some of their bones were found in an archaeological context, so the bird obviously survived into the Polynesian period.

PHAETHONTIDAE White-tailed Tropicbird Phaeton lepturus: Great views of this elegant seabird, the most lightweight

member in its genus. A single bird was first seen against the breathtaking backdrop of Kilauea crater in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. We saw this species again later in the equally scenic Waimea Canyon, while in coastal areas around Kauai we saw about half a dozen birds. Finally several birds were noted along the spectacular Na Pali coast on Kauai.

Red-tailed Tropicbird Phaeton rubricauda: Another lovely tropicbird giving superb views. Our first sightings were on the southeast Oahu coast, but our most memorable encounter was with some fifty birds at Kilauea Wildlife Refuge, where birds were engaging in their impressive aerial displays.

SULIDAE Masked Booby Sula dactylatra: A single bird was seen on our first day close to Moku Manu Islet on

the Oahu coast. This is a rare breeder on rocky offshore islets around the Hawaiian Islands but it is by far the least numerous of the boobies.

Brown Booby Sula leucogaster: A total of at least 25 birds were seen during sea watches off Oahu and Kauai, and along our boat journey around the Na Pali Coast.

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Red-footed Booby Sula sula: The most numerous booby during our sea watches, and we saw large colonies at Kilauea Wildlife Refuge on Kauai. Birds here belong to the race rubripes, and note the absence of dark morph birds (found in the Galapagos) here in Hawaii.

FREGATIDAE Great Frigatebird Fregata minor: Small numbers were seen off Oahu and Kauai (mostly immatures

and females) and a few were also present around the Na Pali coast. ARDEIDAE Snowy Egret Egretta thula: A single bird was seen at Pouhala Marsh on Oahu with Western Cattle

Egrets. This is a vagrant to Hawaii. According to David it is really rare he has seen only one, 12 years ago on Kauai.

Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis: This cosmopolitan species was encountered on all the visited islands. Introduced to eat insects detrimental to dairy and beef cattle, 105 birds from Florida were released in 1959 at one site each on Kauai, Molokai and Maui, and at two sites each on Oahu and the Big Island. Additional numbers were released on Oahu over the following two years. Nowadays it is most numerous on Oahu and Kauai.

Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax: About 15 birds were present at James Campbell Wildlife Refuge on Oahu, up to 20 were seen at Hilo and a few were seen in coastal Maui and Kauai. Currently this species is the only non-introduced heron breeding in Hawaii, but a large heron is known to have inhabited windward Oahu sometime between about 800,000 and 120,000 years ago.

THRESKIORNITHIDAE White-faced Ibis Plegadis chihi: Three birds were seen at Kai’allaia Ponds on Maui. It is an accidental

visitor to Hawaii. Four endemic species of flightless ibises in the genus Apteribis used to live in the Maui Nui islands. The latter comprise present-day Maui, Molokai, Lanai and Kahoolawe, and are named after the large ancient island of Maui Nui, formed in the past 1 to 2 million years when relative sea level dropped at least 140 m below current height. These amazing, apparently forest-inhabiting ibises became extinct in the so-called ‘pre-Contact days’, i.e. prior to the arrival of Captain Cook and the start of ornithological collecting on the islands. It is likely these defenceless birds were extirpated rapidly upon the arrival of the first Polynesian settlers, around 300-600 AD. Strangely, no flightless ibis fossils have been found on the Big Island, Oahu or Kauai.

ANATIDAE Greater White-fronted Goose Anser albifrons: A single bird was seen among six Nenes on Kauai.

This is a vagrant to Hawaii. Cackling (or Lesser Canada) Goose Branta hutchinsii: A single bird was seen at Honokohau sewage

works and a flock of 18 at the ponds in Hilo both on Big Island. It is an occasional to regular winter visitor in the Hawaiian Islands. The taxonomy of subspecies has recently been changed. We saw two different forms on the tour. The ‘common’ one with a dark breast and small bill called Cackling Goose (minima) and the other with a paler line under the dark neck and slightly longer bill is the Aleutian Canada Goose (leucopareia), of which we saw two in Hilo.

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Hawaiian Goose (Nene) Branta sandvicensis: Perhaps the symbol of conservation efforts in the islands and nowadays Hawaii’s official ‘State Bird’, this species was once on the brink of extinction. It was saved by a captive breeding programme and its numbers have now recovered considerably following re-introduction efforts. Nevertheless the long-term future is still uncertain, especially on those islands that have mongooses and where more captive-bred birds continually need to be released. Our first sightings were on the Big Island, where two strutted about on the lawn of the Big Island Country Club. The largest numbers, about twenty birds, were encountered on the taro fields of Hanelei Wildlife Refuge, and another six birds were seen at Kilauea Wildlife Refuge. Note that while nowadays the Nene is the only extant goose in the Hawaiian Islands, there used to be four endemic species of ‘flightless geese’ or ‘moa nalo’, in the genera Chelychelynechen (which had a bill reminiscent of the beak of a tortoise!), Thambetochen and Ptaiochen. Recent DNA comparisons indicate that the colonizing species that gave rise to these was a duck rather than a true goose, and that evolution of these birds began about 3.6 million years ago. In addition there were the Forest Nene Branta hylobadistes (of which individuals ranged from fully-flighted to almost completely flightless) and an as yet undescribed Giant Hawaiian Goose, which was huge and flightless. Sadly these amazing creatures all became extinct, probably soon after the arrival of the first Hawaiians.

Eurasian Teal Anas crecca: A single bird of this rare straggler was seen on the ponds in Hilo. Green-winged Teal Anas carolinensis: Two birds were seen at Kai’allaia Ponds on Maui. This species

is a much more regular visitor to the Hawaiian Islands than the previous sister species from Eurasia.

Mallard Anas platyrhynchos: Ten birds were seen at Kai’allaia Ponds on Maui. These may have been genuine migrants as this island has very few captive or feral individuals of this species. We saw this species on Oahu and Big Island as well others of rather dubious origin.

Hawaiian Duck (Koloa) Anas wyvilliana: Undoubtedly the most boring Hawaiian endemic! While we saw several good-looking birds at James Campbell Wildlife Refuge on Oahu, there has apparently been a fair amount of hybridizing between this species and feral Mallards on Oahu, and our birds were not necessarily ‘pure’. On Kauai however this problem has not prevailed and the ten birds we saw there must have been pretty ‘pure’ Koloas.

Northern Pintail Anas acuta: Twenty birds were scoped at James Campbell Wildlife Refuge on Oahu and another four were seen at Kai’allaia Ponds on Maui. This and the next species are regular winter visitors in Hawaii.

Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata: About 60 birds were seen at Honokohau sewage works on Big Island and about 30 at Kai’allaia Ponds on Maui.

Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope: A pair of this rare vagrant was seen amongst a flock of the next species on the ponds in Hilo, Big Island.

American Wigeon Anas americana: Surprisingly numerous on this year’s tour. We saw the first four birds at James Campbell Wildlife Refuge, followed by another 16 at Pouhala Marsh on Oahu. We also saw a big flock of 15 birds on the ponds in Hilo, Big Island.

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ACCIPITRIDAE Hawaiian Hawk (‘Io) Buteo solitarius: On our first day at Hakalau Forest Wildlife Refuge we had

eight sightings of about five birds. Both dark and light morph birds showed beautifully at close range, some in flight and some perched. In addition a juvenile bird briefly showed in flight the next day and then another on our last morning on the Big Island. While nowadays considered to be a Big Island endemic, fossils seem to indicate a previous presence on some of the other islands. A 1982 survey estimated the population to be between 1400 and 2500 birds, and apparently it is holding its own. Some continued habitat degradation or destruction may have a negative effect on this species, though luckily the Hawaiian Hawk seems to be quite opportunistic and versatile in its feeding habits (so much so that it sadly readily took captive-bred Hawaiian Crows Corvus hawaiiensis, now extinct in the wild). Note that two other raptors used to inhabit the islands, the small Wood Harrier Circus dossenus, with shorter wings and longer legs than harriers elsewhere (it probably fed on birds just like the stilt-owls did), and a sea-eagle, which may have fed on the extinct flightless ibises and ‘moa nalo’. Both probably disappeared after arrival of the Polynesians.

PHASIANIDAE Black Francolin Francolinus francolinus: First a male was seen by the first car on the leeward slope of

Mauna Kea and then another near Kona on the Big Island. This species’ unmistakable calls were heard in the Maui lowlands, and about ten were seen while looking for Grey Francolins on Maui Landfields. This native of Asia is one of three francolins introduced into the Hawaiian Islands as game birds in the late fifties. This is one of the birds that thrives in the archipelago’s sugarcane plantations, which in Hawaii are slowly disappearing due to the high cost of labour. Note that this habitat is also readily used in the species’ native range. The only other place in the Pacific Ocean where Black Francolin is found (or any francolin for that matter) is Guam in the Marianas, an island which sadly has lost all of its native birds due to the accidental introduction of the Brown Tree Snake Boiga irregularis (though the snake was apparently introduced in the 1950s, the use of DDT may have kept it at bay until this pesticide was outlawed in the 1970s, followed by an explosion of the snake population). Fear exists that sooner or later this perilous reptile will inadvertently end up not only on other islands in the Marianas but also in Hawaii, given the frequent air traffic between Guam and Honolulu. There have already been sightings on Saipan and other islands in the Marianas, although the snake is not believed to have become established there yet.

Grey Francolin Francolinus pondicerianus: This Asian native was first heard at the Kula lodge, and we all had good views of two on our last morning on Maui at the lowland area called ‘Maui Landfields’. The reason why francolins and other introduced game birds in Hawaii are so successful is undoubtedly linked to the fact that many ground-foraging niches were left open when the majority of the islands’ terrestrial birds became extinct after the arrival of the first Polynesian settlers. This extinct terrestrial avifauna included not only the previously mentioned flightless ibises and geese, but also about a dozen species of flightless rails!

Erckel’s Francolin Francolinus erckelii: Regular sightings at higher elevations on the Big Island and on Kauai. Of all the introduced birds this species has one of the most restricted native ranges, as it is normally only found in North Ethiopia, Eritrea, and the Red Sea province of Sudan (where it is becoming increasingly rare).

Chukar (C Partridge) Alectoris chukar: Small numbers of this introduced (in 1923 and subsequently) partridge were observed high on the slopes of Mauna Kea on Big Island and on Haleakalá on Maui, where the habitat is structurally quite similar to its native environment in the Middle East.

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Kalij Pheasant Lophura leucomelanos: Many good views on the Big Island (note the recent name change from L. leucomelana). It was first introduced here in 1962, when 67 individuals from Michigan and Texas game farms were intentionally released at the Puu Waawaa Ranch. Since then this handsome Asian species (here of the nominate, Himalayan race) has increased alarmingly and has spread deep into native habitats, and to make things worse humans transported more individuals to suitable habitat that had not yet been invaded. In Hawaii Volcanoes National Park it has largely displaced the Green Pheasant Phasianus versicolor (a good example of how one introduced species can suffer from the introduction of another). The Kalij Pheasant is considered an important contributing factor in the spread of invasive plants into native forests (though, along with several other Galliformes it is also known to disperse some native plants), and it is also a threat since it feeds on rare endemic land snails. The latter by far beat the Hawaiian Honeycreepers in their sheer diversity and adaptive radiation. There is one endemic family, the Amastridae, in addition to at least 55 endemic genera among the dozen naturally occurring families, which collectively contain some 760 endemic species named so far, many of which are single-island endemics. Sadly about three quarters of these species have already been extirpated since humans first arrived in Hawaii. The reduction in native land snails is also thought to be a factor involved in the decline of the Poo-Uli Melamprosops phaeosoma, the most endangered drepanid, of which only two individuals are known to survive in remote mountain forests on Maui. Alas Hawaii has a very strong hunting lobby (sadly much bigger than the conservation movement), making eradication of introduced game birds an unlikely scenario (even in forest reserves, there is a daily limit of the number of gamebirds that can be shot!).

Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus: I found it very odd to see ‘chickens and roosters’ running around all over the place on Kauai. Those we saw on Oahu and Big Island were certainly domestic fowl. This is the only feral bird species resulting from a Polynesian introduction, now no longer found on the other large islands due to mongoose predation. Beware though, as the original ‘junglefowl’ have mixed with domestic hens to varying degrees, with the ‘purest’ birds now found in Kauai’s highlands. The biggest difference between ‘pure’ junglefowl and feral hens from more recent stock shows up in the downy young. These are streaked (like pheasants) in ‘pure’ junglefowl, unlike the yellow of farmyard chicks! Interestingly the native Hawaiian word for the junglefowl is ‘moa’, the same word as used by the Maoris in New Zealand for their now extinct huge flightless birds.

Common Pheasant (Ring-necked P) Phasianus colchicus: Small numbers of this introduced species were found on the Big Island (where a male was seen displaying), Maui and Kauai. This species is much less forest-bound than Kalij Pheasant.

Wild Turkey Meleagris gallopavo: Several sightings on the Big Island. This species has the distinction of being the first bird introduced by non-Polynesians (not counting the domestic pigeon – see below), in the early 19th century. With the idea of adding to Hawaiian food sources, Captain Vancouver presented King Kamehameha I with turkeys from North America. The King liberated them on the Big Island and forbade hunting them for several years so that they could become established. The initial introduction has been augmented several times, so that today the population is a genetic amalgam of several subspecies.

California Quail Callipepla californica: Regular observations on the Big Island, especially numerous at the ‘Palila’ site. These small game birds were introduced some time before 1855.

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RALLIDAE Common Moorhen (C Gallinule) Gallinula chloropus: Small numbers of this cosmopolitan species

were found on the freshwater ponds at James Campbell Wildlife Refuge on Oahu, in the taro fields at Hanalei Wildlife Refuge and on Poipu Peninsula on Kauai. Birds here belong to the endemic and threatened race sandvicensis. Formerly it also occurred on Maui, Molokai and the Big Island. Surveys in the 1950s and 1960s estimated no more than 57 individuals, but the spread of aquaculture in the 1970s and 1980s has helped to boost this species’ numbers again.

Hawaiian Coot Fulica alai: This Hawaiian endemic allowed nice scope views on Oahu, Big Island and Maui. We saw about twenty birds at most places but 60 were counted at Kai’allaia Ponds on Maui. Following large-scale destruction of wetlands throughout its range this aquatic species declined dramatically during the 20th century. Nowadays the population fluctuates between 2000 and 4000 birds, and it has been allocated ‘Vulnerable’ status by Birdlife International.

CHARADRIIDAE Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola: One bird was seen briefly at Honokohau sewage works on Big

Island. Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva: Numerous on all visited islands (with a daily maximum of 50

on Oahu). It was bizarre to see these striking shorebirds strutting about in gardens and roosting on the ridge tiles of houses!

RECURVIROSTRIDAE Hawaiian Stilt Himantopus knudseni: Thirteen birds were counted at the James Campbell Wildlife

Refuge, eighteen at Pouhala Marsh and about twenty five at Honokohau sewage works on Big Island. The largest flock of over a hundred birds were seen at Kai’allaia Ponds on Maui. This endemic form (which is usually lumped in Black-necked Stilt H. mexicanus, the latter in turn often included in Black-winged Stilt H. himantopus) differs from mainland Black-necked Stilts (among other features) by having black feathering extending noticeably further down the neck. The Hawaiian Stilt has suffered the same fate as the archipelago’s other native freshwater birds due to habitat loss. Stilts were probably one of the few species to benefit from the arrival of the first Hawaiians. Ancient taro fields provided ample habitat, but today such wetlands are few and far between. Nowadays it is the rarest stilt next to New Zealand’s Black Stilt H. novaezeelandiae, numbering (as of the nineties) about 1800 birds. Its survival depends on protection from predators in its core nesting areas.

SCOLOPACIDAE Wandering Tattler Heteroscelus incanus: Regular sightings on all the visited islands. Probably the

most numerous wintering shorebird and passage migrant, after Pacific Golden Plover. Bristle-thighed Curlew Numenius tahitiensis: Excellent studies of this most handsome wintering

wader. We saw sixteen birds at James Campbell Wildlife Refuge on Oahu. This rare curlew is only known to breed in western Alaska and the entire population winters on Pacific Ocean islands. The species has been given ‘Vulnerable’ status by Birdlife International, based on the small population (a few years ago estimated to be about 7000 birds), which is inferred to be declining, largely as a result of predation on the wintering grounds where perhaps more than 50% of adults are flightless during autumn moult. Many oceanic islands now have introduced predators (for example mongooses in the Hawaiian Islands).

Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres: Regular sightings on all the visited islands. The biggest flock of 20 birds was seen at Honokohau sewage works on Big Island.

Sanderling Calidris alba: Regular sightings of small parties on all the visited islands. The biggest flock of 27 birds were seen at Kai’allaia Ponds on Maui.

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LARIDAE LARINAE Laughing Gull Larus atricilla: A single immature bird was seen on the ponds in Hilo, Big Island. The

most frequently recorded gull in the islands. STERNINAE Sooty Tern Sterna fuscata: Distant scope views of over 1500 birds that were present on the islet off

Oahu but we obtained much better views later, of small parties along the south east coast of Oahu.

Brown Noddy Anous stolidus: At least six flying birds were observed along the southeast shore of Oahu.

Black Noddy Anous minutus: We saw two birds along the Na Pali coast of Kauai. The melanogenys subspecies, which is endemic to the main Hawaiian Islands was recorded. Interestingly the northwest Hawaiian Islands and other islands in the western Pacific are inhabited by the black-legged marcusi. There are also plumage differences between the two races, such as the tail colour, which is significantly paler in melanogenys than in marcusi, and also melanogenys tends to nest on rocky shoreline cliffs of high islands, while marcusi nests in bushes and trees on low sandy islands (such as Midway Atoll). Melanogenys may well represent a separate species.

Common Fairy Tern (White T) Gygis alba: Excellent looks at this delicate little seabird at Kapiolani Park in Honolulu. The only ‘natural’ breeding population of this handsome species is on Midway Atoll, as according to David, Oahu birds have originated from an introduction some time ago (apparently this fact only came to light a few years ago). An Oahu survey in 2002 located almost 500 adult birds and at least 100 nests with chicks.

COLUMBIDAE Rock Dove (Feral Pigeon) Columba livia: This largely urban species was found on Oahu, the Big

Island and Kauai. The population in Honolulu is odd, as most birds are white with a red bill and legs. Domestic pigeons were first brought into Hawaii in 1796. Nowadays these pigeons are mostly associated with man, though some feral populations exist along cliffs and rocky areas.

Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis: A common bird on all four visited islands, mostly below 1200m, and on Kauai even found in small numbers in the Alakai Wilderness Area. It was introduced from Asia in the mid-1800s. Among the negative effects of the Spotted Dove on Hawaii’s native flora is its likely responsibility in the spread of the invasive Lantana camara, an aggressive hybrid created in England. Sadly this species has also been introduced into Fiji, which is home to several endemic doves and pigeons.

Zebra Dove Geopelia striata: Another introduced dove, especially prominent in open areas, and seen on all four visited islands. This one was first brought into Oahu from Asia in 1922, and is now abundant in all the main islands, probably ranking as the second most common bird in Hawaii.

PSITTACIDAE Rose-ringed Parakeet (Ring-necked P) Psittacula krameri (H): Only heard along the Tantalus loop on

Oahu. Introduced psittacids pose a serious threat to native ecosystems since they are notorious dispersers of invasive weeds. Alas serious action against them is often made difficult by the local animal rights lobby, as is the case with the Mitred Parakeets Aratinga mitrata on Maui.

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STRIGIDAE Short-eared Owl Asio flammeus: Many great looks at this species which is sometimes called

‘Hawaiian Owl’. On Maui we even saw a bird soaring in the thermals in typical raptor-fashion at Haleakalá NP. As in the Galapagos (at least on those islands that don’t have any hawks) this owl has become a diurnal feeder in Hawaii. It is currently the only native owl in the islands, and has been assigned to the endemic subspecies sandvicensis, though it is morphologically scarcely distinct. This owl is lacking in Hawaiian fossil deposits and may only have been able to establish in the islands after Polynesian-induced ecological change. Note that the archipelago used to harbour the endemic genus of stilt-owls Grallistrix, which probably died out in the big wave of extinctions following the arrival of the first people in the islands. Stilt-owls were diurnal bird-catchers.

ALAUDIDAE Eurasian Skylark Alauda arvensis: This bird, familiar to Europeans, was found to be numerous at

higher elevations of the Big Island, especially on the slopes of Mauna Kea. Many birds were singing in mid-air just like back home on the grasslands of the Hortobágy National Park in Hungary! We also found small numbers on the slopes of Haleakalá on Maui. It was first brought to the islands from England in 1865, and again from New Zealand in 1870. This species seems to be faring a lot better in Hawaii than in much of its native range!

PYCNONOTIDAE Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer: Ubiquitous on Oahu. This and the next species were

introduced here in the 1950s, and since then has rapidly spread through the island where it is now one of the most conspicuous birds. While earlier in the 20th century a number of songbirds were introduced deliberately to fill the void left by the disappearance of native birds at lower elevations, the bulbul populations must have spread from escaped and/or intentionally released cage birds at a time when the introduction of songbirds had already been outlawed. Not only does the Red-vented Bulbul have an impact on the native fauna and flora (e.g. by eating seeds of alien plants and spreading them through its droppings), but it has also become an agricultural pest. In addition to being a nuisance to growers of guavas, papayas and other fruits, it also eats orchid and other flower buds, and in 1989 alone the total cost of bulbul damage to orchids on Oahu was estimated to be US$300,000. Luckily bulbuls aren’t great dispersers over salt water, and, unlike other introduced birds such as the White-rumped Shama and the Japanese White-eye, they have so far been unable to colonize any other islands in the archipelago.

Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus: A few of these introduced birds were seen on Oahu, five in Kapiolani Park and a few along the Tantalus loop. This species is not as widespread as the previous one, though it is still slowly spreading. It first appeared in the wild on Oahu in 1965.

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PACHYCEPHALIDAE MONARCHINAE Hawaii Elepaio Chasiempis sandwichensis: Most authorities still lump all elepaios into a single,

variable species. Since they represent rather distinctive forms and are currently the subject of taxonomic study with a view to splitting them, they are definitely worth considering separately. The only representatives of the monarch flycatchers on Hawaii, all elepaios evidently descended from a single common ancestor, which colonized the islands. On the Big Island three subspecies are found, of which we saw all (ridgwayi at Hakalau Forest and along the Pu’u O’o trail, the Mauna Kea race bryani in the drier mamane forests where we saw the Palila and the nominate sandwichensis at Manuka Forest Reserve near Kona). About ten years ago the population was estimated to be over 200,000 birds. The total lack of any elepaios on the Maui Nui islands is puzzling, although it may be that the enigmatic and now extinct drepanid genus of Maui Shovelbills (Vangulifer) pre-empted the same general ‘flycatcher’ niche there before the arrival of the colonizing elepaio ancestor.

Oahu Elepaio Chasiempis gayi: An immature eventually showed well to all of us in a forested valley near Honolulu and in addition an adult even put in a brief appearance. This is an endangered species (or subspecies), with a small and declining population. About ten years ago a total population of about 200 birds was estimated.

Kauai Elepaio Chasiempis sclateri: Many good views in the Alakai Wilderness Area. Though the population was still estimated to be over 20,000 ten years ago, the Kauai Elepaio may be declining and should be monitored.

MUSCICAPIDAE SYLVIINAE Japanese Bush-Warbler Cettia diphone: Our first encounter with this great-sounding songster

(sometimes nicknamed the ‘Japanese Nightingale’) was at Tantalus loop on Oahu. The species was then found to be more numerous on Kauai, where, upon playback a singing bird came in and sat beautifully in the open at Hanalei Wildlife Refuge. This species was introduced into Oahu from Japan (presumably the race cantans) in 1929, and has from there spread to Molokai, Lanai, Maui, Kauai, and, most recently (according to David) somewhere on the Big Island. It was first noted on the other islands in 1979 and 1980 and it has since rapidly spread here. E.g. Waikamoi lies quite high on the slopes of Haleakalá, and we even heard Bush-Warblers on the periphery of the Alakai Wilderness Area, where they must at least partially compete with the native insectivores. In addition introduced insectivores are likely to have a negative effect on native insects that are essential as pollinators for native plants.

TURDINAE White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus: A very smart introduced bird of Asian origin, which

showed well on both Oahu and Kauai, the two islands to which it was recently confined. On Kauai we even heard several birds in the Alakai Wilderness Area, where sadly the introduced forest birds seem to be penetrating more and more (increasing the host reservoir for diseases such as avian malaria). Shamas were intentionally released in Kauai in 1931, and on Oahu in 1940, and nowadays they are widespread on both islands. In recent years this species also seems to have started colonizing Molokai (from which native songbirds are now mostly gone) and Maui, where the possibility of yet another alien bird spreading into the higher elevation forests could mean trouble for the extant endemics there. The species is named after the Malabar coastal area, the first part of India known to Europeans.

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Omao (Hawaiian Thrush) Myadestes obscurus: A common sound in the higher-elevation forests on the Big Island, and we obtained good looks at several birds. The Omao is the only extant thrush in the Hawaiian archipelago that still seems to have a healthy population. The population seems stable (some time ago estimated to be at least 170,000 birds), and in some areas it appears to be becoming more common, a ray of sun in the gloom of Hawaii’s endemic avifaunal record (though it has disappeared some time ago from the Kona and Kohala districts).

Puiaohi (Small Kauai Thrush) Myadestes palmeri: We had prolonged superb looks at this critically endangered species on the Mohihi trail of the Alakai Wilderness Area. The Puiaohi was considered a rare bird as early as the beginning of the 20th century. The population was estimated at c20 individuals in 1976-1983, though recent estimates range between 100 and 200 individuals. A captive breeding programme and release of young birds into the Alakai Wilderness Area was initiated, but it remains to be seen what the population trend will be in the next decade. Prospects for long-term survival are bleak, considering the fate of the now extinct Kamao (or Large Kauai Thrush) M. myadestinus (last seen in the early nineties), Olomao M. lanaiensis (Maui, Lanai and Molokai) last seen on the latter in 1988), and Amaui M. woahensis (last seen on Oahu in the 19th century).

TIMALIINAE Melodious Laughing-thrush (Hwamei) Garrulax canorus: A beautiful songster, commonly heard in

the forested areas we visited at Alakai Wilderness Area (on Kauai) in the native forest of the highlands. It is amazing how dominant the song of this species was in at least parts of the Alakai area, where it obviously must have an impact on the native avifauna. Some of us obtained fairly good views of this species, but most of the time it was extremely skulking. The story goes that this, mainly Chinese species, was introduced when during the big Honolulu fire in the early 20th century many folks released their cage birds. Nowadays Hwameis are found on the five larger islands (I don’t know whether they naturally spread to the other islands or were instead released there as well but I suspect the latter scenario), though it seems to be most common on Kauai (perhaps due to the absence of the leiothrix which disappeared from the island?). ‘Hwamei’ means ‘beautiful eyebrow’.

Red-billed Leiothrix (R-b Mesia) Leiothrix lutea: This gorgeous skulker was commonly heard in forested areas on Oahu, the Big Island and Maui, and small numbers showed well. Introduced from Asia in the early 20th century this species is now pretty common on most large islands. However, in spite of a rapid spread through Kauai and having become fairly common by the 1930s, the population on this island subsequently declined equally rapidly, and no leiothrixes have been seen on Kauai since 1974. The reason for this fortunate disappearance is unknown. Also on Oahu this species has shown some notable population fluctuations. It was a common sight here in the 1950s, but beginning in 1958 its numbers fell dramatically until almost none were spotted for the next two decades. However the population unfortunately rebounded in the mid-1980s and now this species is fairly common once more.

MIMIDAE Northern Mockingbird Mimus polyglottos: Only three birds were seen in Haleakalá NP on Maui.

This species was first introduced into Hawaii in 1928, and can now be found on all major islands in drier habitats. Compared to mainland North America the song repertoire in the archipelago is limited, perhaps since they have fewer species to mimic. A scary fact is that vagrants have turned up on several of the north-western Hawaiian islands, eg on Nihoa, home to the endemic Millerbird Acrocephalus familiaris and Nihoa Finch Telespiza ultima. The eventual establishment of introduced birds on the latter could bring about deleterious effects on the native birds.

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STURNIDAE Common Myna Acridotheres tristis: Introduced in 1865 to prey upon armyworms (caterpillars of the

lepidopteran family Noctuidae) that were seriously damaging pasturelands, and now ubiquitous on all the large islands. Common Mynas recently colonized Midway Atoll, but plans for their eradication there are fortunately on the table.

ZOSTEROPIDAE Japanese White-eye Zosterops japonicus: Abundant on all major islands, and nowadays considered

to be the most numerous bird in the archipelago. First introduced into Oahu in 1929 and into the Big Island in 1937, it has quickly spread from there to the other major islands. As its principal food is nectar (in addition to arthropods and fleshy fruits), the Japanese White-eye is thought to compete more with native birds than other introduced birds do. In a study a couple of decades ago negative correlations were found between the presence of endemic Iiwi, Apapane and Elepaio and the presence of the white-eye. On the other hand a Harvard biologist found in 1983 that the native Hawaiian vine (Freycinetia arborea), once pollinated by several now-extinct bird species (all five endemic Hawaiian honey-eater species are now gone!), is now pollinated primarily by the numerous Japanese white-eyes. In turn, the exotic Passiflora mollissima vine (originally from the Andes), which forms a serious threat to native vegetation as it can choke out species such as koa (Acacia koa) saplings, and which in addition increases the risk of hurricane damage to the trees because of the vine’s weight, is now being pollinated by native honeycreepers (and it seems to benefit the Kauai Amakihi). The natural history of Hawaii, though changing, remains enthralling, and many ecosystems are currently in a state of chaos as opposed to stability. Note also that, while remote Hawaii was perhaps never colonized naturally by any white-eyes, the success of the Japanese White-eye in the archipelago is not surprising in the light of the fact that many Pacific islands are inhabited by at least one species of white-eye.

EMBERIZIDAE Northern Cardinal Cardinalis cardinalis: Regularly seen or heard on all visited islands. Red-crested Cardinal Paroaria coronata: We saw fair numbers of this South American species on

Oahu, Maui and Kauai. Introduced into Hawaii in 1929 and now found on all the main islands except for the Big Island.

Yellow-billed Cardinal Paroaria capitata: Excellent looks at several birds on the Big Island, mainly around Kona but some around Hilo too. Another introduced species of South American origin, this one seems to keep on spreading on this island, where the previous species is absent.

Yellow-faced Grassquit Tiaris olivacea: We saw two of this rather scarce introduced bird in the Honolulu Watershed Forest Reserve on Oahu. It was introduced to Oahu in 1974 but is established only in low numbers.

Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola: First a party of at least six birds were observed on the lawn of the Big Island Country Club with more around Kona on the Big Island. Yet another species introduced (1960s) from South America, no longer doing well on Oahu, but spreading on the Big Island.

Western Meadowlark Sturnella neglecta: Repeated good views of this open country bird in the Kauai lowlands (with the first birds sitting alongside the runway close to our fish-sandwich place), the only island this bird, introduced in 1931, is found on.

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FRINGILLIDAE CARDUELINAE House Finch Carpodacus mexicanus: This introduced species was seen on all the islands, and was

found to be particularly numerous on the Big Island and Kauai. Introduced from California at some time before 1870, this species is now well established on all the main islands. Though food competition with the endemic birds may be limited, House Finches do serve as a disease reservoir. Note that for some reason the Hawaiian population has a much higher percentage of orange- and yellow-tinged males (as opposed to red-tinged ones) than mainland populations have.

Yellow-fronted Canary Serinus mozambicus: A single male was seen singing on the leeward slope of Mauna Kea on Big Island. A species introduced in the late 1960s.

DREPANIDINAE Palila Loxioides bailleui: The first in a series of fourteen Hawaiian Honeycreepers or

drepanines/drepanids (often simply referred to as ‘dreps’) encountered on the tour (note that some authorities consider the Hawaiian Honeycreepers to be a family on their own, but that others consider them a subfamily of the Fringillidae). We had good view of a female of this finch-like honeycreeper in the mamane (Sophora chrysophylla) forests in the Pu’u La’au area on the lower slopes of Mauna Kea. Largely feeding on the mamane seed pods and confined to one major stronghold, the Palila has been placed in the ‘Endangered’ category by BirdLife International. Over the last century the Palila’s range has gradually contracted to the upper slopes of Mauna Kea, probably due to a combination of factors, such as diseases (avian malaria and avian pox), predation by introduced mammals, and habitat destruction by introduced herbivores, which eat mamane seedlings and trample the vegetation. Caterpillars in the mamane pods are another food source for the Palila, and introduced parasitic wasps, which now attack these caterpillars present another threat to this species. Current estimates indicate the existence of between about 1600 and 5700 birds, and the population may currently be stable, though it faces continuous threats. A big scale programme was started to save the Palila, consisting of studying the species, removing introduced mammals (after a successful lawsuit against the authorities by the Sierra Club), habitat restoration, controlling predator populations, implementing a captive breeding programme and translocation trials. Hopefully these considerable efforts will result in a population increase, which would be a great turnaround in the sad fortunes of the drepanids, as currently only 17 out of 47 known species survive (the latter number includes those that probably became extinct after the arrival of the first Polynesians).

Hawaii Amakihi Hemignathus virens: Many great views, both on the Big Island (nominate race) and on Maui (wilsoni). It is one of the most numerous Hawaiian honeycreepers, with a seemingly stable population of over 800,000 birds. Both this and the Apapane seem to be holding on in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, whereas the Iiwi has disappeared from the area, indicating the possibility of these species having developed at least some resistance to the avian malaria. The race wilsoni is now extirpated from low-lying Lanai and it is now rare on Molokai.

Oahu Amakihi Hemignathus chloris: Two were seen in the hills above Honolulu in the so called Watershed Forest Reserve, including a male granting great scope views as it was singing in a bare tree top. More than any other species this one shows clear signs of resistance development against the avian malaria, as it appears to be re-colonizing lower elevation areas from which it had disappeared originally. The population has been estimated to range between 20,000 and 60,000 birds, and seems to be stable.

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Kauai Amakihi Hemignathus kauaiensis: Many good views in the Alakai Wilderness Area. The population of this one seems to be stable as well (or even increasing), with over 15,000 birds estimated to inhabit the island, and there even seems to be a trend for this species to re-colonize some areas a little lower down, like around David Kuhn’s house, probably indicating the development of resistance against avian malaria. The reason why such resistance may be developing more in amakihis than in other honeycreepers is the presence of large populations (and thus a bigger genetic variation) combined with short generation cycles. Yet, due to their ‘single-island populations’, both this and the next two species have been placed in the ‘Vulnerable’ category by BirdLife International.

Anianiau (Lesser Amakihi) Hemignathus parvus: A bright little Kauai endemic seen frequently in the Alakai Wilderness Area. This species seems to be holding its own, and the population has been estimated to be between 15,000 and 25,000 individuals. There has been no indication yet of the development of any resistance against avian malaria in this species, placing it at serious risk as Culex mosquitoes seem to be becoming more and more common in the Alakai Wilderness Area.

Akiapolaau Hemignathus munroi: Great looks at three (female, immature male and juvenile) of this Big Island endemic along the Pu’u O’o trail. A truly unique bird as no other bird on the planet has a bill like this! It prefers koa forests and is the only bird in the archipelago to exploit the woodpecker niche. However, it seems to be rare in spite of the lack of woodpecker-like competitors. This species is tragically vulnerable on all fronts. It occupies comparatively large home ranges and has a low reproductive rate and a long dependency rate. It has been placed in the ‘Endangered’ category by BirdLife International, as it also has a fragmented range, and is experiencing continuous declines in range, habitat quality and population. This is largely due to the effects of introduced species such as feral pigs (habitat destruction) and introduced birds, which serve as reservoirs of disease. The overall population is thought to be no more than around a thousand birds.

Akikiki (Kauai Creeper) Oreomystis bairdi: We had excellent looks at a minimum of three of this critically endangered species along the Mohihi trail of the Alakai Wilderness Area. A remarkable species which is sadly placed in the ‘Critically Endangered’ category by BirdLife International, giving little hope for the future of this nuthatch-like bird, with its small and contracting range. Population estimates range from 600 to 800 birds and it seems to be suffering a continuous decline. Even more worrying, is that nowadays it is found only in the eastern Alakai showing much the same pattern in its contracting range to other native birds before they became extinct (like Kama’o and Kauai O’o).

Hawaii Creeper Oreomystis mana: We had three encounters with this uncommon Big Island endemic. It was not easy but finally we all had very good looks at this hyperactive little endemic. In BirdLife’s ‘Endangered’ category, it is another nuthatch-like bird with a small, contracting and severely fragmented range, and seems to be suffering a continuous decline. Population estimates range from 2,500 to 10,000 birds. The Hakalau National Forest Wildlife Refuge was established to protect this and several other threatened honeycreepers.

Maui Creeper (M Alauahio) Paroreomyza montana: Plentiful in Waikamoi Preserve. The most numerous Maui endemic, with a population estimated to be around 35,000 birds. Efforts to fence off forest areas from the destructive feral pigs are hoped to increase the amount of o’hia forest (the creeper loves those red flowers for their copious nectar) and to have positive effects on both this warbler-like species as well as the Akohekohe. Sadly the Oahu Creeper or Oahu Alauahio P. maculata has not been seen since 1985 and is now presumed to be extinct.

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Akepa Loxops coccineus: Great looks at three males and several females at Hakalau National Forest Wildlife Refuge. The nominate race is endemic to the Big Island and occurs in three populations totalling about 14,000 birds. It has recently disappeared from two areas, and while core populations seem stable, the peripheral ones seem to be declining, hence the placement in the ‘Endangered’ category by BirdLife International. As it is the only drep using holes for breeding it can be helped and recently artificial nest cavities as well as nest boxes were introduced. In 1999 and 2000 about 10% of these were used successfully which is encouraging. Sadly the Maui subspecies ochracea is now thought to be extinct, and the Oahu race rufa was rare even in the 1800s, with the last possible sighting in 1976. Note that this and the next species have a finch-like bill of which upper and lower mandibles are slightly crossed at the tip to aid in prying open places where insects can hide.

Akekee (Kauai Akepa) Loxops caeruleirostris: Four or five birds showed well in the Alakai Wilderness Area along the Swamp trail. A relative of the previous species (with which it used to be lumped), this one has an even smaller population, estimated between 3000 and 5000 birds. It has equally been given ‘Endangered’ status, and some of the threats it faces include the ever encroaching avian malaria (on Kauai made worse by the lack of much suitable habitat at elevations higher than the Alakai), introduced predators (particularly rats) and alien wasps and ants, which greatly seem to reduce populations of native arthropods. Unlike the Akepa it does not use cavities and holes for breeding but builds a nest.

Iiwi Vestiaria coccinea: Probably the prettiest extant honeycreeper, this one still seemed abundant at Hakalau National Forest Wildlife Refuge on the Big Island. Good numbers were also found along the Pu’u O’o trail on the same island and at Waikamoi Preserve on Maui. In the Alakai Wilderness Area though we only detected a few birds on each visit. Now extinct on Lanai and with only relict populations on Oahu and Molokai this species is now largely confined to the Big Island, Maui and Kauai. Recent population estimates were c385,000 birds in the 1976-1983 period and over 350,000 individuals in the early 1990s, following recent declines in several populations (eg it seems to have disappeared from the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park). This species is highly susceptible to avian malaria and lower elevation populations may be sustained primarily by dispersal from higher elevation populations. Their future survival on Kuaui seems far from certain.

Akohekohe (Crested Honeycreeper) Palmeria dolei (H): One was heard briefly, by David in the Waikamoi Preserve but unfortunately we were not able to catch a glimpse of it.

Apapane Himatione sanguinea: The most numerous Hawaiian honeycreeper. We encountered this smart aficionado of o’hia flowers in large numbers on all islands except for Oahu (where we didn’t visit the highlands). The current population is estimated to be over 1,300,000 birds (making this one the most numerous Hawaiian honeycreeper), and some degree of resistance against avian malaria is suspected. Interestingly the Apapane never diverged into different races on the various main islands, and the only different-looking race was the now-extinct one on far-away Laysan (freethi).

PASSERIDAE House Sparrow Passer domesticus: Numerous on all visited islands, especially near human

habitation. This human commensal was introduced from New Zealand (where in turn it had been brought in from England) in 1871.

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ESTRILDIDAE Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild: Sizeable flocks (one of at least 80 and one of at least 32) were

found on Oahu. One of the more recent introductions (date of introduction unknown), this African species was first identified in the field in the late seventies, and has since then spread rapidly throughout the island, now being abundant. Recently there have been reports from Kauai, Maui, Molokai and the Big Island, indicating that Common Waxbills are starting to spread to other islands, though it is not known whether they have become established there yet.

African Silverbill Lonchura malabarica: A few on the Big Island. At least ten birds were spotted on a fence close to the Big Island Country Club. First recorded on the Big Island in the early seventies (introduction date unknown), African Silverbills have apparently spread from there to the other larger islands.

Nutmeg Mannikin (Scaly-breasted Munia) Lonchura punctulata: This rather dull-looking species was regularly found on all four visited islands. This Asian native was the first estrildid to be introduced into Hawaii (1865) and is now common on all of the main islands, where it is found from sea level to alpine scrub. It is also the only member of the family to penetrate native forest, as we noticed on the periphery of the Alakai Wilderness Area.

Chestnut Mannikin (C Munia, Black-headed M) Lonchura malacca: Quite a few on Kauai. This introduced species (from Southeast Asia) was first seen on Oahu in 1941, on Kauai in 1975, on the Big Island in 1976 (where still quite local), and has recently (natural spread or releases?) been reported from Maui and Lanai for the first time.

Java Sparrow Padda oryzivora: In addition to a few odd individuals, large flocks were seen on Oahu, Big Island and Kauai. The largest flock of about 150-200 birds were seen coming to roost in front of our restaurant (Pesto) on Big Island. A first, intentional introduction in the 19th century failed, but this species seems to have boomed subsequent to having been released again (illegally) in the late sixties. An endemic of the islands of Java and Bali (and possibly Madura) in Indonesia, this species has been given ‘Vulnerable’ status by BirdLife International, following a disastrous crash in numbers on its native grounds (an estimate of 2,500-10,000 remaining birds is given). Though widely introduced elsewhere, also several feral populations (in Indonesia at least) have declined as well, and the gregarious roosting behaviour makes it easy to trap them for the cage bird trade. So nowadays Hawaiian birds (which seem to benefit from numerous bird feeders) may make up a considerable portion of the total world population, and they may well already exceed Indonesian birds in numbers! The Honolulu area Christmas Bird Count alone turned up between about 1,121 and 2,515 Java Sparrows in the 1999-2002 period! Java Sparrows appear to be among those birds that are especially susceptible to the West Nile Virus, which some fear may soon reach the Hawaiian Islands.

MAMMALS Lesser Indian Mongoose Herpestes auropunctatus: This voracious introduced predator was seen on

Oahu and on the Big Island. Luckily a recent report from Kauai, until now the only mongoose-free larger island, has not been confirmed, and serious trapping efforts haven’t come up with anything. Introduced from Jamaica, to where it had been previously introduced, in 1883 to control rats in sugarcane plantations, this small carnivore has spread throughout many habitats and has caused havoc among ground-nesting birds.

Hawaiian Monk Seal Monachus schauinslandi: Only one was seen from our boat on the Na Pali coast of Kauai. An endangered species, which is apparently not doing too well. A familiar story!

Pacific Bottle-nosed Dolphin Tursiops truncatus: Two or three briefly came in bow-riding during our ‘pelagic’ trip, but didn’t stay around for too long.

Long-snouted Spinner Dolphin Stenella longirostris: Several large pods were encountered off Kauai and the total number seen must have been over a hundred.

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Humpback Whale Megaptera novaeangliae: A few, mainly distant blows on Oahu followed by at least twenty sightings on our ‘pelagic’ off Kauai. Some were breaching, jumping high out of the water and giving excellent views to everyone’s delight.

REPTILES Pacific Green Sea Turtle (P G T) Chelonia mydas: Several sightings of this serene creature. Gold Dust Day Gecko Phelsuma laticauda: This smart lizard was found in the grounds of Uncle

Billy’s on the Big Island. A native of Madagascar and other islands off the African coast. INSECTS Kamekameha Butterfly Vanessa tameamea: One of only two endemic butterflies in the archipelago.

One was seen at the Alakai Swamp trail on Kauai. Monarch Butterfly Danaus plexippus: This species colonized Hawaii after the introduction of its host

plant, milkweed. Blackburn’s Little Blue Butterfly Udara blackburni: The only other endemic butterfly. Several showed

well along the Pu’u O’o trail on the Big Island.