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happy meals

BY ELIZABETH COSSICK

If you’ve ever driven through downtown Acworth, you’ve likely noticed the historic old mill, which

cozies right up to the railroad tracks on Main Street. If you’ve lived in the area for more than five years, you remember when the structure was an abandoned shell—nothing but a lonely, disconnected silo and four roofless brick walls. And if you’ve lived here for longer than that, you might remember when the mill was a bustling sign of commerce.

A HISTORICAL SITE IS REINVENTED AS ACWORTH’S HOTTEST NEW EATERY.

BY ELIZABETH COSSICK

Gabriel’s at the Old MillFlashback to the 1870s: Acworth native John Cowan is returning from the Black Hills of Montana, where he and a group of other Georgians unearthed one of the largest gold discoveries in U.S. history at Last Chance Gulch. Now a very wealthy man, Cowan settles back in Acworth, which had been burned by Sherman. He builds a flourmill, and his hometown’s industry is revived.

Co-owners Johnnie Gabriel and Denver Woods

15spring 2015 15

That mill would run for over a century, until burning in 1992. It was rebuilt as a short-lived restaurant two decades later, but when it closed, the building was once again left bereft … waiting.

Drive by today, however, and you’ll find this historic structure resurrected as the newly opened Gabriel’s at the Old Mill—the second location for one of Cobb’s most beloved chefs, Johnnie Gabriel, and co-owner, Denver Woods. The once-lonely silo is now the backstop for a handsome wooden bar, and those brick walls now house some of the best Southern home cooking around.

Flashlights, Cobwebs and Vision

“When we first toured the building, it was a mess,” recounts Denver. “We grabbed flashlights and pushed through the cobwebs.”

But something akin to magic happened during that tour: Denver got a vision of what the place could be. “We actually left, were locking the door, and I said, ‘Wait, I want to go back inside,’” he shares. “I sat in there for over two hours and sketched out the restaurant, bakery and bar. It just all came to me. I said to Johnnie, ‘This can be a Gabriel’s. We can do this!’” Gabriel’s at the Old Mill opened just four months after that tour, in January 2015.

old building, new idea

“You can’t ask for a better location,” says Johnnie, gesturing to the industrial-loft ceilings, exposed beams and brick walls. “We’re so grateful to Mayor Tommy Allegood for inviting us here and for spearheading the renovation efforts to prepare such a beautiful place for us. The entire Acworth community has been wonderful. We have been so warmly received.” Indeed, they have. A new public parking lot was being built at press time to accommodate the crowds.

“We are doing something that no restaurant in Atlanta has ever done: we offer a restaurant, bakery, coffee shop and bar all in one,” says Denver, whose food-service resume includes opening 481 restaurants internationally. “Come in for just some coffee and Wi-Fi or get a full-service meal or just a beer. We welcome guests all day long.” l

Gabriel’s at the Old Mill is located at 4271 Southside Drive, Historic Acworth; open Monday-Thursday, 7 a.m.–9 p.m., Friday-Saturday, 7 a.m.–10 p.m., 470-891-5969, gabrielsacworth.com. Follow Gabriel’s Restaurant & Bakery on FB.

Photos by Mia McCorkle

southern with a twist

Gabriel’s at the Old Mill offers the home-style cuisine that’s made Johnnie (and her three cookbooks) famous. She and cousin Paula Deen grew up cooking in the same kitchens, so she knows Southern. At her new place, you’ll find Gabriel’s classics like meatloaf, fried chicken, salmon patties and red velvet cake, along with tantalizing new additions like warm collard dip (trust us: order it), in-house smoked chicken, blackened tilapia, and cast-iron skillet steak—all for under $20.