hairdressing resources nvq level 2 resources nvq level 2 contents... section 1 :: maintain client...

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HAIRDRESSING RESOURCES

NVQ Level 2

Contents...

Section 1 :: Maintain Client Care

Section 2 :: Shampoo and Conditioner

Section 3 :: Dry Hair and Create a Finished Look

Section 4 :: Cut Hair Using Basic Techniques

Section 5 :: Change Hair Colour Using Basic Technique

Section 6 :: Fulfil Salon Reception Duty

Section 7 :: Contribute to the Effective use of Resources

Section 8 :: Support Health and Safety and Salon Security

www.hair-heads.co.uk

2 Copyright T Bura 2008 | hair-heads.co.uk

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Client CareADVERSE HAIR AND SCALP CONDITIONSHEAD AND FACE SHAPESLIFESTYLEHAIR GROWTH PATTERNSINCOMPATIBILITYRECOGNISING INFECTIONSRECOGNISING INFESTATIONSPESTS AND DISEASESSKIN TESTSTEST CURLS AND COLOURDISCRETION AND THE D.P.A.

INDEX

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Adverse Hair and Scalp ConditionsAdverse hair and scalp conditions may influence shampooing, conditioning, colouring andperming by forcing the hairdresser to inform the client of their hair, skin or scalp conditionand either proceed with caution or advise the client to seek medical advice. For example if aclient has a small cut the hairdresser would inform the client before proceeding with theshampoo and take special care not to inflame the area. If a client has lice, the hairdresserwould tactfully inform the client and advise the client to seek medical advice and returnwhen the infestation is cured.

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Head and Face ShapesHead and face shape may influence cutting and perming by forcing the hairdresser toadvise the client on which styles would suit their particular face shape and compensate forany style which may not complement the clients face shape. For example, if a client has asquare face shape, a hairdresser would advise a style that would compensate by roundingoff the squareness of the face, enhancing the good features and disguising unwantedfeatures.

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LifestyleLifestyle may influence cutting and perming by making the hairdresser aware of the clientsneeds and choosing a style in line with those needs. For example, if a client is very athleticand washes their hair on a daily basis, then a shorter style that can be easily managed andkept clean should be advised by the hairdresser.

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Hair Growth PatternsHair growth patterns may influence cutting by forcing the hairdresser to be aware of how thehair naturally sits and to cut the hair accordingly or to rethink the style chosen. For example,if a client has a cows lick, a short straight fringe would be unsuitable, but a slightly longerfringe that falls naturally in the direction of the cows lick will complement the growth pattern.

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IncompatibilityIncompatibility of previous services and products used may influence cutting, colouring,perming and relaxing. For example, if a client has had a previous colouring treatment andwishes to change the colour to an extreme, the required colour may not be achieved due tothe amount of processing required. This over processing may damage the hair.

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Recognising InfectionsSuspected infection is when a client is thought to have an infectious disease such asimpetigo or a fungi infection such as ringworm. By carrying out a full head and scalpanalysis, these infections can be spotted.

Impetigo-caused by streptococci can be recognised by blisters on the outer epidermis ofthe skin which dry to form a yellow crust.

Boils-caused by staphylococci can be recognised by inflammation and the development ofpus in the hair follicles.

Barbers itch-caused by staphylococci can be noticed by small pustules forming aroundeach hair of the beard.

Ringworm will attack dead tissue of the epidermis and the hair shafts.

Tinea capitis can be noticed by pink patches on the scalp which develop into round, grey,scaly areas with broken hairs.

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Recognising Infestations

A suspected infestation is when a client is thought to be infested with insects like head liceor itch mites. By carrying out a full head and scalp analysis, these infestations can bespotted.

Head lice as adults, are grey and about 2mm long.Their eggs are called nits, they arewhite and about 1mm long. The eggs are fixed to hairs close to the scalp and are usually inthe occipital region.

Itch mites as the name suggests, are very itchy and cause scabies. Their eggs are laid infolds in the skin and can be recognised as tiny red lines beneath the skin.



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Pests and Diseases of the hair and scalp

Impetigocaused bystreptococci.

Blisters and dry to form a yellow crust on the outer epidermisof the skin. The bacteria enters through a cut or abrasion. Itis highly contagious, especially to children.

Boils causedbystaphylococci.

Infects the follicle to produce inflammation and pus in follicle.

Barbers' itch(sycosisbarbae)caused bystaphylococci.

Infects follicles of beard. Pustules from around each hair. Itis transmitted by the use of infected shaving equipment.

Cold sores(Herpessimplex).

Infects skin around nose and lips, forms red itchy patcheswhich may develop blisters. This tends to be a life longcondition which comes and goes.

Warts(verrucae).

Small growths, which cannot be cured but can be burnt off.

Head louse(pediculosiscapitis).

Can be found on scalp at the nape or sides of the head. Thelouse is 2 mm long and causes irritation by biting the skinand sucking blood.Females lay eggs (nits) close to the scalpattached to a hair shaft. Pediculosis is treated by aninsecticide.

Itch mite(sarcoptesscabiei).

This mite causes `scabies'. Usually infects hands and wristsbut can spread over the whole body. infection is spread bydirect contact. medical advice is necessary.

Face mite(demodexfolliculorum).

This mite feeds on sebum and is associated with blackheadsand hair follicles. It inhabits the eye-lashes, nose and chin.They are harmless and do not transmit disease.

Alopecia This term covers the loss of hair. The most common type ofalopecia is found in men and is usually hereditary.

Ringworm Fungus attacks dead tissues of the epidermis and hair shaft.

Tinea capitis(scalp).

Pink patches, develop into round grey scaly areas, withbroken hairs. It is highly contagious, spreads by direct



contact, and is most common in children. Treatment byGriseofulvin.

Alopeciaareota

Patches of clear scalp of various sizes. normally caused byshock or nervous conditions. treat with antibiotics and high-frequency treatment.

Seborrhoea A greasy condition of the scalp. A good diet will help with thiscondition.

Seborroeoteosa

Extreme oiliness caused by over active sebacious glands. It isnot infectious but is often related to other scalp conditions.

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Skin TestsAn allergic reaction occurs when the immune system, which is the body's normal defenceagainst dangerous foreign substances, mistakes a normally harmless substance for aninvader, such as a virus. No one knows why this abnormal reaction occurs in some peopleand not others. People who have this type of unusual immune system are said to behypersensitive. About one in twenty-five clients have some form of reaction to tints and anumber of semi-permanents containing either phenylenediamine or para-toluenediamine.Product manufacturers recommend a skin test before every tint application.

Mix a small amount of tint with equal parts of peroxide (the strength you intend to use)

Cleanse either the inside of the elbow or behind the ear with cotton wool and spirit(alcohol)

Place a small smear of tint on the cleansed area and allow to dry naturally or cover withNu-skin. (collodion)

Advise the client to leave the patch alone until returning to the salon, unless it begins toirritate, when it should be washed off and calamine lotion used to relieve the irritation.

If a positive reaction occurs, do not allow tint to come into contact with the clients scalp.

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Test curls and colourTo see if a clients, possibly over processed hair, can withstand a colour or perm, 3 or 4small sections of hair can be coloured or permed as a test for possible breakage, incorrectcolour or over elasticity.

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Discretion and the DPANever talk about clients to other clients or staff and allow clients to talk to you in the strictestof confidence. If this is not up held, the reputation of your salon could be damaged. Forexample, you might tell client (a) that the client (b) before them had a bad case of ringwormrecently. If client (a) were to mention to client (b), "I hope your ringworm cleared up ok."Then client (b) may not be too happy and refuse to enter your salon again. This type ofpublicity for a salon is not good at all.

As a registered data user with the DPA (data protection act) you must give a client fullaccess to all personal data at all times. You must make sure that the information is correctand accurate because the client would have the right to obtain compensation if damage issuffered from inaccurate information. A client can also claim compensation for loss orunauthorised disclosure.

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Shampoo and ConditionerSHAMPOO RANGES HOW TO SHAMPOO/CONDITION HAIR THE HISTORY OF SHAMPOO THE SOAP TAX THE MANUFACTURE OF SHAMPOO ALKYLBENZENESOAPLESS SHAMPOOCONDITIONER RANGES SHAMPOO/CONDITIONING TREATMENTS HERBS AND THEIR EFFECTS ON HAIR

INDEX

The range of Hair Shampoo now available

Hair Shampoos today contain soapless detergents that do not react with hard water likeolder soap detergents. Soapless shampoos are naturally neutral or slightly Alkaline and arevery strong in degreasing the scalp.

Hair Shampoo for Greasy hair

The soapless detergents found in shampoos for greasy hair will remove the grease but willnot prevent greasy hair. A hair shampoo for greasy hair will contain fewer oily or fattysubstances.

Hair Shampoo for dry hair

Dry hair shampoos will contain more oily or fatty substances or less soapless detergents.The oils will leave a residue on the hair and will include oils like coconut, olive and almondoils.

Hair Shampoo for damaged hair

These contain broken down proteins in the form of short chains of amino acids which clingto the hair, filling in damaged areas. Hydrolyzed protein or Keratin is usually taken from



certain animal waste products like ground cattle hooves, but it's possible to use Hydrolyzed'human hair' keratin protein, the benefits of which have not yet been realised by majormanufacturing companies of hair shampoo to the general public.

Hair Shampoo for colour treated hair

Hair shampoos for colour treated hair have a low Ph value and are beneficial to reduceoxidation damage and close the cuticle to stop colour molecules escaping.

Anti-Dandruff Shampoo

These hair shampoos claim to reduce the multiplication of of the epidermal cells and thus,reduce subsequent scaling. The main ingredient used is Zinc Pyrithione. Another ingredient,Selenium Sulphide, which was used for some time, is now rare because so many peopleare allergic to the sulphur.

Hair Shampoo for Psoriasis

Coal Tar hair shampoo can be beneficial to reduce scaling, but must be left on the hair for aminimum of five minutes to have maximum effect.

Brightening Hair Shampoo

The ingredients range from Camomile, to lighten blonde hair; henna, to increase theredness of brown hair or semi-permanent colorants in hair shampoo bases.

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How to shampoo and condition hair

Hair Shampoo

First you must thoroughly wet the hair with cool or warm water. Hot water creates too muchsteam and will dry out your hair. Add a small amount of shampoo to the palm of your hand(size of a 10 pence coin) and rub your hands together. Using the balls of your finger tips,gently massage the shampoo into the scalp. The idea is to clean the scalp, not the hair.The scalp produces sebum, a natural oil that stops your hair and scalp from becoming dryand flaky. The reason dirt builds up on your hair is because it becomes trapped in thesebum. By regularly cleaning the scalp, you are removing the old dirty sebum andpromoting new clean sebum that will protect your hair and scalp leaving it clean andhealthy. If you have a very oily scalp, you should rinse off the first application of shampooand repeat the process.

TIP: if during the first application of shampoo you notice very little or no lather at all, thenthe detergent in the shampoo has been weakened by the oil in the scalp and is a goodindication that a second application of shampoo is required.

Hair Conditioner

Rinse off any shampoo and towel dry the hair. This is so any water will not dilute theconditioner too much. Add a small amount of conditioner to the palm of your hand (size ofa 10 pence coin) and rub your hands together. Add the conditioner to the hair starting fromthe middle of the hair shaft, working your way towards the ends of the hair. The idea is tocoat your hair in a protective layer of conditioner to smooth the cuticle scales. leave theconditioner on the hair for a few minutes to allow it to work on the cuticle scales. After a fewminutes it is time to rinse out the conditioner. Make sure it is rinsed thoroughly with warmor cold water.



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The History of Shampoo

Soap has been around from as early as 600bc and was made from various animal fats andwood or plant ashes containing potassium carbonate.

Soap production spread slowly throughout the middle ages. Although on the increase, thebenefits of soap was slow to be realised by general societies at that time.

In 1831 Sulphonated olive oil (turkey-red oil) was one of the first soapless detergents(surfactants) to be made in a laboratory.

In the 1930's, fatty alcohols were used in the production of synthetic detergents. The firstfatty alcohols used were derived from body oil of the sperm or bottle-nosed whale. Effortssoon followed to derive these materials from the less expensive Tryglycerides found incoconut oil, palm kernal oil and tallow. This was all to change because soon after WorldWar 2, another raw material, Alkylbenzene, became available in huge quantities.

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The Soap Tax

In the 13th and 14th Centuries, soap-makers had to pay tax on the soap they produced.After the Napoleonic Wars, this soap tax rose as high as three pence per pound. Taxcollectors would lock the soap-boiling pans at night to prevent soap makers evading theduty on soap production. In 1853, the soap tax was abolished at a loss to the state of overone million pounds. By the 19th Century, soap became commonly used by mosthouseholds.

"Soap consumed by a nation is an accurate measure of it's wealth and civilisation."according to Justus Von Liebig, a German Chemist at that time.

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http://hair-heads.co.uk/hair-shampoo/Alkylbenzene.php



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The Manufacture of Shampoo

Soapless shampoo or synthetic detergents are usually made from one of three things...

1. Triethanolamine Lauryl Sulphate2. Sodium Lauryl Sulphate3. Ammonium Lauryl Sulphate

...together with light oils and perfume.

A soapless shampoo or detergent is produced by boiling oils and fats with sodium orpotassium hydroxide, this makes a hard soluble soap and glycerine as a by-product.

A solvent detergent is made from petrol or Carbon Tetrachloride.

A dry powder detergent is made from simply talc and chalk.

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Alkylbenzene

Alkylbenzene is a liquid hydrocarbon petroleum by-product and is treated withconcentrated Sulphuric acid and made into acidic Alkyl Sulphonates or HydrogenSulphates. This is followed by neutralisation with various bases. Today, Alkylbenzene isthe most important raw material for synthetic detergent production; About 50% of allsynthetic detergents produced in the United States and Western Europe are based on it.

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Soapless shampoo for hair

The majority of liquid shampoos in use today, are generaly termed as soapless shampoo,are based on the alkyl sulphates, and the most widely used of which is triethanolaminelauryl sulphate. When properly prepared, this substance is particularly suitable for washinghair for two reasons.

1

It does notleave dullydeposits on thehair when usedin hard water.

This is because, when theshampoo reacts with the calciumsalts found in hard water, itforms calcium lauryl sulphate.This is a soluble salt which rinsesfreely from the hair.

2

The finishedproduct occupiesa position on theacid to alkaliscale equal toabout P.H. 7.

P.H.7 is chemically neutral. Thismeans that it will not normalyinterfere with any chemicalhairdressing processes whichfollow shampooing. Moreimportantly, being non alkaline,it will not normaly cause damageto the hair structure.

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Types of hair conditioner

Oil conditioners

Olive oil Almond oilCoconut oil

Which can be applied to dry hair and processed with heat, they will make the hair feel soft,supple and shiny.

Acid rinses

Weak acids (P.H. 4 - 5) such as lemon juice and vinegar can be poured through the hairafter shampooing and left on. They will make the hair shiny by closing the cuticle scales.

1 tablespoon lemon juice1 pint warm water = Treatment.

Chemicals such as neutralisers, bleaches, permanent tints are alkaline (opening the cuticlescales) and work by adding oxygen to the hair and return the hair to its natural acid state.We need to use ascorbic acid. This anti - oxidant (ie - it removes oxygen) is often added toacid balance conditioners because of its anti - oxidant properties and because its good atclosing the cuticle scales.

Leave in conditioners

These contain moisturising and protective ingredients and are sprayed onto wet hair. Theyare ideal for greasy, fine or tight curly Afro hair and are very useful for disentanglingchildrens hair and prevent the hair from drying out too much.

Conditioning creams

Ordinary conditioning creams are emulsions which work in a similar way to the hairs naturalgrease. They coat the hair in a thin film filling in some of the gaps in the broken scales sothe hair becomes more shiny and manageable. The better ones are acid.

Deep Acting conditioners



These are sometimes used when reconditioning the hair, especially as part of a 4 - 6 weekseries of weekly treatments for hair in very poor condition.

Restructurites

Hair that is in a very weakened and over processed state, (over permed, bleached) such asin Trichorrhexis nodosa will benefit from the application of a restructurite and should beapplied to shampooed, well dried hair and left on.

High frequency

Is used for hairdressing and beauty purposes. A metal electrode and glass vacuumelectrode are used, they consist of :

1 The metal electrode or saturator.2 The glass comb or the rake electrode.3 The glass bulb or surface electrode.4 The cylinder is usually made from vulcanite and is called the holder.

It has been found that the H - F stimulates :

1 Nerve endings.2 Circulation via the superficial, arterial capillaries.3 Sweat glands.4 sebaceous glands.

H - F treatment

The treatment consists of applying a H - F alternating electric current to the scalp by meansof a suitable electrode. this gives a tingling sensation to the scalp and a feeling of warmth.

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Shampoo and Conditioning Treatments for hair

A scalp whithflaking skin(dandruff)

Use a shampoo whith selenium sulphide.

Chemicalytreated hair(i.e.permedetc.)

Use a clear liquid soapless shampoo P.H.7 before treatment.Use a soapless shampoo with organic acids (lemon juice,vinegar), ascobic acid, or any anti-oxident treatment, all witha P.H.4.0 to 5.6 after processing.

Damagedhair

Use a soapless shampoo whith natural or synthetic, fatt orwax. cationic detergents, deep acting conditioners,restructurants and also high frequency treatment may bebenificial. A shampoo whith keretin or other protiens (animalor vegetable) will help to re-build the damaged cuticle.

Dry hair Use any oil or wax based shampoo's, leave in conditionersand hot oil tretments containing almond, coconut orsunflower oils, may help.

Oily orGreasy hair

Soapless shampoo's whith natural acids i.e. lemon or vinegar.Beer, egg and dry shampoo's will combat oily hair.

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Herbs and their affects on hair

1 Burdock root = Positive on roots of hair

2 Rosemary = Improves circulation, Good for grease

3 Nettle = Skin problems, Controls dandruff

4 Sunflower oil = Restricturant, Fatty acids

5 Camomile = Conditioning, Increased shine, Good for damagedhair

6 Linden blossom = Ideal for fine hair, Smoothes the hair

7 Yarrow = Volume to fine hair, Etheric oil

8 Calendula = Moisturising for long hair, Regulating, ContainsCarotenoids (balance of skin and hair)

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Dry Hair and Create a Finished lookPRODUCTSTOOLSBRUSHINGLIFESTYLEDIETDRYING WITH BRUSHESHAND DRYING/DEFUSER DRYINGBLOW DRYING SCIENCE

INDEX

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ProductsHAIRSPRAY

A Lacquer that gives hold and support. Used after hair has been dried into shape. Spraywhere desired.

WAX

A wax coating that gives stability with movement. Used when hair is dried into shape. Rubinto hands and fingers and apply where desired.

GEL

A gel that gives hold and support. Can come in various forms e.g. wet look gel, spray gel.Rub into hands and fingers and apply where needed.

MOUSSE

A gel in foam spray form. Used on wet hair before blowdrying to aid the hairdresser andgive even hold. Use a golf ball size, apply to hair and comb through before blowdrying.



COLOUR MOUSSE

As normal mousse, but with added temporary colour. This may be used to enhanceprevious colour treatments or to temporarily hide grey. The colour will wash away after thefirst wash. When applying to the hair remember to wear rubber gloves.

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ToolsHAND DRYER

An electrical appliance, in the shape of a hand gun, that blows heat through a barrel likechamber. Used to blow dry wet hair into desired shape. Use on its own for finger drying or inconjunction with a desired brush (see bellow) Can also use an attachment like a defuser forlong, wavy, permed hair.

DENMON

A very popular blow drying brush that comes in different sizes. Used to blow dry sections ofwet hair to give precision lift, natural looking straight or wavy looks.

ROUND BRUSH

A small round brush is a bristle brush used to give tight curl on short to medium hair. Amedium or large round brush is used to give loose waves or straightness to medium or longhair.

VENT BRUSH

Looking like the skeleton of a brush, a vent brush allows warm air to pass right through itshead. Can speed up drying and give a very natural wavy, textured look.

TONGS

An electrical appliance used to give root lift or curl to previously blow dried hair. When usedon previously blow dried or set hair and combed through using the fingers, gives a verybroken up look throughout.

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Brushing

Brushing your hair not only keeps it in shape and tangle free, but promotes new growth bystimulating nerve endings and blood supply.

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Lifestyle

If you live a very athletic lifestyle or regularly work in a dusty atmosphere and find yourselfwashing your hair on a daily basis, use a very mild shampoo such as a baby shampoo.

Atmospheric conditions vary and can have an effect on the condition of your hair. Forexample; on a cold damp frosty morning, hair can become frizzy, heavy and lose its shape;on a hot sunny day hair can become very dry and naturally bleached. Wearing a hat or hoodwill protect the condition and health of your hair from these extreme conditions.

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Diet

You are what you eat!Just as a plant needs fertile soil and water to grow, your hair needs vital vitamins andminerals to stay healthy. By eating a healthy, well balanced diet you can improve the healthof your hair.



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Drying with brushes

Usually drying the hair with brushes leaves a smooth or sleek Finnish with plenty of lift.Using the vent brush or denman, the hair is taken into small sections and held in the teethof the brush while dried. Holding the brush at differing angles lift and direction can beachieved. The round brush takes the same sections and is kept rotating to give extra lift.

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Hand drying / defuser drying

Usually a technique used for clients with curly hair or to achieve a more natural or brokenfeel. The hair is held lightly between the fingers and the end of the hair is dried with a handdrier. On shorter hair the drier is used in a directional method using the tips of the fingers tohelp[ break up and angle the hair. A defuser may be used and the ends of the hair are laidin the base of the defuser or held close to the head.

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Blow drying

Wet hair stretches because the temporary bonds that join the polypeptide chains in thecortex are broken. However, they quickly rejoin into a new shape when you blow dry the hair(also, setting applies).

You can blow dry:

Curly and wavy hair-Straight.

Straight hair -Wavy.

by breaking the temporary bonds, stretching the hair with a brush and then drying it.

Hair in its natural state, whether curly, wavy or straight, is described as being in an alphakeratin state. When the hair is wetted, stretched into a new shape and then dried, it is in abeta keratin state.

Once the hair is dampened again by shampooing or just by being caught out in the rain thenit will go back to its natural state (curly, wavy or straight) and be in the alpha keratin stateagain.

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Cut Hair using Basic Techniques3 BASIC CUTSFACE SHAPESHAIR GROWTH PATTERNSLIFESTYLEHAIR TEXTUREDIFFERENT TECHNIQUESCOMBINATIONSCOLOURINGPERMING

INDEX

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3 Basic CutsOne length (bob)

In its purist form it is cut completely on the outside shape / edge. weight and fullness on theoutside shape. the whole shape of the cut tends to look triangular, i.e.. more width at thebottom edge than anywhere else.

Layered cut

the hair is cut all over the head at varying angles following a guide length , this creates a lotof inside shape or movement. weight and fullness is evenly distributed. in its purest form thewhole cut tends to look round and even.

Graduated cut

the hair is cut and held away from the outside edge,reducing weight and fullness on thatedge and moving it to a higher line. in its purest form the whole haircut tends to have adiamond shape, i.e.. wider in the middle than anywhere else.

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Face shapesWhen choosing a suitable hairstyle it is important that your face shape is taken intoconsideration because remember; what suits one person may not suit another.

In knowing the shape of your face you can easily determine which features to enhance andwhich features to disguise. An appropriate style can then be found to best suit your face.

If you have a square face, for example, you should have a style which gives the impressionthat your face is more rounded than it is by softening those features that make it square.

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Hair growth patternsEverybody's hair grows inn different ways, and direction can be a critical factor for thehairdresser when cutting. Hair can grow in an adverse direction to the clients desired hairstyle, and ignoring these growth patterns when cutting can cause significant problems. E.g.cutting a cows lick too short may cause the hair to stick out. cutting a strong crown ordouble crown too short may cause the hair to lie flat. Partings are also taken intoconsideration when cutting i.e.. when cutting a one length bob the natural parting should beaccommodated for otherwise the cut may seem too long, or short on one side.

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Lifestyleevery ones lifestyle varies in many different ways and is taken into consideration whenoffering a particular style to a client. e.g.. If a client lives a very athletic lifestyle or regularlyworks in a dusty atmosphere and finds themselves washing their hair on a daily basis, astyle which is both short and convenient to wash should be considered.

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Hair TextureFace shape, lifestyle and growth patterns are an important part of the elimination processwhen choosing an appropriate style. The texture of hair is important for choosing the rightstyle, but also the right technique. for example a client with fine, straight hair would notrequire thinning as this may prove pointless and cause the hair to become flyaway.

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Different Techniques

Club cutting

Sometimes referred to as blunt cutting and often used when cutting the sides and top of thehair. The section of hair is held out from the head and cut off at the points/tips.

Scissor and clipper over comb

Scissor and clipper over comb is a method using the comb as a guide for cutting in areaswhere the hair is too short for a finger guide, as in the nape area and around the ears.

Graduating

Using the length of the outside line as a guide, the hair is held away from the head cuttingaway the bulk from the outside line.

Thinning

with scissors or razor the hair can be thinned to either, increase volume at the root byreducing the weight or to soften the features of a style.

Freehand

freehand is not a technique but is used at the hairdressers discretion. For example usingthe features of the head as a guide the hairdresser could cut a straighter first guideline bycutting freehand.

Texturising



the hair is cut to different lengths to produce a variety of different looks, short hair can betexturized to give a spiky look, long hair can be made to look ragged or less uniform andusing a combination of long and short hair more fashionable looks can be achieved.

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CombinationsAll of the techniques used by hairdressers can, and are used in conjunction with oneanother to gain the individual benefits of each of them. There are three main steps to betaken when cutting, defining, shaping and finishing. e.g. by using free hand and club cuttingto create the outside line. Graduating or scissors over comb to define the shape and weightof the style. Thinning and texturising can be used to gain texture and movement.

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Colouringstyle and colour do go hand in hand when trying to achieve an overall look. Although thereare no hard and fast rules as to what colour with what style, other influencing factors mustbe taken into consideration. I.e. occupation of client, clients natural colour, regrowth and soforth. Colour does enhance a style, or detract the eye from the shape. a one length bob,may look well defined with strong lines, if black or dark shades are used. A light, blondcolour for a layered or graduated style may soften the edges or help the style to blend. Withthe use of colour, combining different shades and tones, it is possible to achieve a morefashionable look on a style that may not be so fashionable.

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PermingIf a style is achieved when cutting, it may be possible to exaggerate the overall shape ofthat style with the use of perming. Perming creates more movement on the inside line andachieves a greater lift. If a client has naturally curly or wavy hair then this type of permwould be unnecessary, and permanent straightening may be required. when consideringpermanently waving the hair all influencing factors must be regarded. I.e. regrowth, lifestyle,colouring, face shape and manageability.

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Change Hair Colour using BasicTechniquesTEMPORARY COLOURSEMI-PERMANENT COLOURPERMANENT COLOURLIGHTENING/BLEACHINGEFFECTS OF BLEACHHI/LO LIGHT TECHNIQUESCOLOUR WHEEL/CORRECTIVE COLOURICC SYSTEM

INDEX



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Temporary Colour

makes Wella, Schwarzkopf, Goldwell, Clynol, Matrix, Clairol, Redken.

equipmentgown, towel, apron, rubber gloves, tinting bowl(optional), tintingbrush(optional), comb, brush

notesMost temporary colours are applied in mousse form, scrunched intothe hair using rubber gloves. There are also colour gels, sprays andrinses. All temporary colours should disappear after the first wash.

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Semi-Permanent Colour

makes Wella, Schwarzkopf, Goldwell, Clynol, Matrix.

equipmentgown/cape, Towel, apron, rubber gloves, tinting bowl, tinting brush,comb, brush, plastic cap, highlighting cap/hook, tinfoil, easy mesh,climazone, cotton wool, sectioning clips, water spray

porousIf the hair is porous the processing time may be shortened due tohair damage. i.e. if ends are porous delay colour application until thelast 15-30 minutes.

notes

semi-permanent colours last for six to eight washes and can beapplied in various ways using techniques such as, all over colour,hi/low lights, spot colour and scrunch in colour. semi permanentcolours are good for clients who do not wish to have permanentcolour or who haven't decided on permanent colour yet.

heat

Heat will effect the processing time. Cold temperatures will slowdown the processing time and hot temperatures will speed upprocessing time. If atmospheric conditions appear to be cold thenadditional heat may be required. If conditions are hot then colour willtake quicker.The method of application maybe effected by hottemperatures. i.e. If temperature appears to be hot then applicationmay need to start from mid-lengths and ends (as in virgin hair) dueto the additional heat given off by the clients scalp.

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Permanent Colour

makesWella koleston, Schwarzkopf igora royal, Goldwell colorance /topchic, Clynol, Matrix socolor.

equipmentgown/cape, towel, apron, rubber gloves, tinting bowl, tinting brush,comb, brush, plastic cap, highlighting cap/hook, tinfoil, easy mesh,climazone, cotton wool, sectioning clips, water spray

porousIf the hair is porous the processing time may be shortened due tohair damage. i.e. if ends are porous delay colour application untilthe last 15-30 minutes.

notes

Permanent colour is, as it says, PERMANENT. It can be good forcorrecting unwanted colour (covering white hair) altering the toneand depth of natural colour, for fashion or alternative colour. As it ispermanent, the colour will not fade, but regrowth will need to berecoloured.

heat

Heat will effect the processing time. Cold temperatures will slowdown the processing time and hot temperatures will speed upprocessing time. If atmospheric conditions appear to be cold thenadditional heat may be required. If conditions are hot then colourwill take quicker.The method of application maybe effected by hottemperatures. i.e. If temperature appears to be hot then applicationmay need to start from mid-lengths and ends (as in virgin hair) dueto the additional heat given off by the clients scalp.

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Lightening Bleach

makes Wella, Schwarzkopf, Goldwell, Clynol, Matrix.

equipmentgown/cape, towel, apron, rubber gloves, tinting bowl, tinting brush,comb, brush, plastic cap, highlighting cap/hook, tinfoil, easy mesh,climazone, cotton wool, sectioning clips, water spray

porousIf the hair is porous the processing time may be shortened due to hairdamage. i.e. if ends are porous delay bleach application until the last15-30 minutes.

notes

Powder bleach may dry out during application. Although, oil (emulsion)is easier to apply, you must still make sure all the hair receivessufficient product. When using bleach, watch out for sensitive skin.Inflammation may occur. This can be avoided by applying barrier creamaround the hair line before you begin application.

heat

Heat will effect the processing time. Cold temperatures will slow downthe processing time and hot temperatures will speed up processingtime. If atmospheric conditions appear to be cold then additional heatmay be required. If conditions are hot then bleach will take quicker.Themethod of application maybe effected by hot temperatures. i.e. Iftemperature appears to be hot then application may need to start frommid-lengths and ends (as in virgin hair) due to the additional heatgiven off by the clients scalp.

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Effects of Bleach

OXIDISING AGENTS IN THE BLEACH BREAK DOWN TO RELEASE OXYGEN. THEOXYGEN PENETRATES THE HAIR SHAFT DE-COLOURING THE PIGMENTS.

WHEN BLEACHING BLACK HAIR A SERIES OF COLOUR CHANGES TAKE PLACE.THE SEVEN, MORE NOTICEABLE COLOURS, ARE LISTED BELOW.

AS THE COLOUR OF THE HAIR CHANGES FROM THE NATURAL COLOUR, TOWHITE, THE CONDITION OF THE HAIR IS AFFECTED.

AFTER THE HAIR HAS TURNED WHITE SEVERE BREAKAGE OCCURS, AS THEOXIDISING AGENT CONTINUES TO CHANGE THE COMPOSITION OF THE MELANIN,WHICH HAS AN ADVERSE AFFECT ON THE CUTICLE.

THE EFFECTS OF BLEACH ON HAIR

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Hi/Lo Light Techniques

TECHNIQUE ADVANTAGE DISADVANTAGE

CAPPEDComb hair into position. Fitcap firmly. Pull correctamount of hair through thecap at a ninety degree angleand apply colour.

1.Quicker2.Ideal for short hair3.Gets closer to thescalp

1.Painful2.Can't be precise3.Only one colour

WEAVEDSection hair accordingly andweave desired thickness withmetal tailcomb. Apply colourwhere desired.

1.More than onecolour2.Ideal for long hair3.Not painful4.More precise

1.Difficult on short hair2.Takes longer3.Doesn't get close tothe roots

FLYING COLOURApply to blow dried hair. Dipcomb intocolour and paint fordesired effect.

1.Ideal for short hair2.More fashionable

1.Difficult on long orcurly hair

SCRUNCH COLOURApply to blow dried hair.Scrunch colour onto thedesired area and rinse.

1.Very quick2.Subtle colour

1.Only good onnaturally curly hair

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Colour Wheel

Corrective colour

The 'colour wheel' and 'star' is made up of three primary colours (red, blue, yellow) andthree secondary colours (green, orange, violet). Each primary and secondary colour has anopposite. It is important to know these opposite colours as it is needed when correctingunwanted colour.

e.g. If a client has bright green hair, you would have to neutralise the green with red.

COLOUR NEUTRALISINGCOLOUR

red green

yellow violet

blue orange

green red

violet yellow

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ICC System

The I.C.C. (international colour code) system is a tool that the hairdresser and client need torefer to during colouring consultation. Shade guides, showing samples of coloured nylonhair, are designed around the I.C.C. system and are needed by the hairdresser to get aclear idea of what shade the client requires. The hairdresser can then determine the correctnumber of shade to mix.

The I.C.C. system is made up of two sets of numbers, depth and tone. Depth (numbered1-10) is a description of how light or dark a colour is. Tone (1-8) is a description of thecharacter of colour.

For example, if a client was to choose a dark golden blonde colour from the shade guide,the hairdresser should find that the tint number is 6.3

Please note that all manufacturers of tint products may vary slightly in their use of the I.C.C.system.

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Salon Reception DutiesSALON RECEPTION DUTIESCASHCHEQUESCREDIT CARDSCHARGE CARDSVOUCHERS/TOKENSINVALID PAYMENTSFRAUDULENT PAYMENTS

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Salon Reception Duties

As a receptionist, it is a duty to receive payment from all clients.

The many forms of payment are as follows:

CASHCHEQUEDEBIT CARDCHARGE CARDVOUCHERS/TOKENS

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Cash PaymentsPaying by cash is one of the most common methods of payment for a hairdressing service.When a client pays for his or her recent hairdressing service by cash, the total cost isseldom rounded off to accommodate his or her pocket. It is then necessary to give changeto the client. This is why a certain amount of money is kept in the till to provide plenty ofchange to give to the client when dealing with transactions. This certain sum of money isknown as a float.

An itemised bill showing the total, date and service given as receipt for cash paymentsshould be given to the client and is the correct procedure to follow when dealing with cash.Having an official receipt is a way of verifying the total salon takings for that day and keeprecord of tax and VAT. VAT may be shown on the bill separately or included in the cost ofthe service.

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ChequesPaying by cheque is probably the second most common method of payment in a salon.When receiving a cheque, it must be supported by a valid cheque guarantee card. This cardis a way that the client can guarantee that his or her bank will honour the payment up to theamount shown on the card.

A hand written cheque should contain the following information:

1. Name of recipient2. Date of issue3. Signature of client4. Amount in words and figures

The receptionist should verify that a cheque is valid and correct before accepting it aspayment. These are the areas to look out for:

1. Check name of recipient is correct2. Check date is correct3. Check amount in figures is correct4. Check signature with specimen on card5. check account no. tallies with card6. Check wording is the same as figures

The guarantee card is handed over with a cheque payment so that the specimen signature



on the card can be matched to that on the cheque. The number on the cheque card mustbe written on the back of the cheque by the receptionist and the date on the card must bechecked to see that it has not expired. If a client did not have a cheque guarantee card andthe sufficient funds in his or her bank or building society, the cheque would bounce makingthe payment invalid.

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Credit CardsCredit cards are an acceptable method of payment in a salon if the salon owner has appliedto a merchant service to be able to accept payment in that way. For example, the salonowner could apply to 'Barkleys Mastercard' to enable the acceptance of that paymentscheme for future transactions. This would allow a client with that credit card scheme to payfor hairdressing services.

The two main credit card schemes at the moment are 'Mastercard' and 'Visa'. If a salon isable to accept different forms of credit card payment, it should be made clear to customersby displaying the various credit card symbols in the window or at reception.

Customers will find that paying by credit card is easy. The customer would hand the creditcard to the receptionist who places the card into a machine and runs a lever across to makean impression of the card which holds the information on a voucher. The client is thenasked to sign the voucher. One copy is retained and the other is given to the client as areceipt.

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Charge CardsIf a large department store offers salon services, a charge card can be used by the client ifthey have an account there. Charge cards work and are processed in the same way ascredit cards. 'American Express' and 'Diners Club' are the two largest charge cardsoperating in this way.

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Vouchers and TokensVouchers or tokens are a form of payment that a client can use. These vouchers or tokensare bought from the salon in question and are used when the client requires a service orproduct. A client may not purchase a voucher or token for his or her self, but may purchaseone for a friend or relative as a gift. In other words it is a prepaid service or product that theholder can collect at anytime.

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Invalid PaymentsAn invalid payment cannot be accepted by a receptionist. An invalid payment consists ofone or any number of faults made by the client on payment, which a receptionist must lookout for. For example;

Invalid dates.

Check that the date on a credit card or cheque guarantee card has not expired. If it hasexpired, the payment would be invalid.

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Fraudulent PaymentsA fraudulent payment differs from an invalid payment in that it is illegal. An illegal paymentmight be; forged banknotes (information on this can usually be sought at local policestations, who offer advice and detecting equipment) or stolen credit cards. Some stolencredit cards can be detected by the cards number. Some banks give lists of stolen cardnumbers to look out for.

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Salon ResourcesRESPONSIBILITIESORDERING AND RECEIVING STOCK HANDLING STOCK ROTATING STOCK RETAIL DISPLAY

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Responsibilities

It is the managers responsibility to take regular stock checks to ensure quality and adequatesupply to meet the demand. The manager should take account of all stock coming in andout of the stock room. Sometimes the manager will leave certain responsibilities to staffmembers to carry out. For example, a junior, who's main job is washing hair, may berequired to check certain stock, like shampoo and conditioner levels. When a certainproduct is running low a junior should inform the manager who can then order areplacement.

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Ordering and receiving stock

The manager will order replacement stock from a reputable wholesaler. The wholesaler willthen deliver the stock with a delivery note or invoice witch should contain information onitems, volumes, dates, sender and delivery address. The goods should then be checkedagainst the delivery note and moved to a secure location, away from the working area.

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Handling stock

The Health & safety at work act, controls the handling of stock - in the act the following setsof regulations apply:

COSHHWorkplace (Health, safety & welfare) regulations 1992Manual handling operations regulations 1992Personal protective equipment at work regulations 1992Back Up | Index

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Rotating stock

When new stock arrives it should be stored with the rest of the stock in hand. The new stockshould be stored behind the old stock, so that the older stock will be used first (this is calledrotating the stock). If the old stock was kept behind the new stock it may deteriorate andbecome unusable over a period of time. A good rule to go by is F.I.F.O. (first in first out) andL.I.L.O. (last in last out) witch will help to stop stock deterioration.Back Up | Index

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Retail display

When displaying products for retail purposes (sold to clients for home use) productcompanies will often supply display cabinets. These should be placed in full view of theclients (usually in the reception area) and used to store a small amounts of the full range ofproducts to be sold. All the employees should have a full understanding of the products onsale, so that any queries by a client may be answered quickly by any member of staff. Thedisplay should be kept clean and dust free.

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Supporting health, safety and security inthe salonINFECTIONSPOSTURE AND DEPORTMENTC.O.S.H.H.WASTE DISPOSALCROSS INFECTIONGOVERNMENT ACTSHANDLING AND STORING

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Infections

Colds and flu (spread by droplet infection), tinea capitis (a scalp condition) and Impetigo(caused by streptococci) are all fungal, viral or bacterial conditions that can be passed bydirect contact or indirect contact from one individual to another, which can cause aninfectious condition.

Any suspected infectious condition should be reported to the salon owner immediately sothat all the necessary precautions can be made to ensure that other clients and staff will notbe at risk from the infection (i.e. sterilisation of tools and equipment). Any client suspectedof having an infectious condition, like ringworm or head lice, should be tactfully referred to adoctor.

Infections can be spread from client to client or from client to hairdresser and in some casesfrom hairdresser to client. The client may have a very high standard of personal hygieneand pose no risk of infection to anyone, or on the other hand the client may pose the threatof infection. The clients health is very important so to maintain their health it is important notto pose the threat of infection to them in any way. Therefore it is important that the



hairdresser controls the situation by being healthy and hygienic themselves. Legally theemployee's are responsible for their own personal health and safety, and the health andsafety of their clients.

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Posture and Deportment

Over a period of time poor posture and deportment can damage the hairdresser by causingback injuries, muscle spasms, aches and pains which in turn cause tiredness and irritability,and in turn this can cause the hairdresser to be less aware of the hazards that appear in thesalon.

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COSHH

COSHH stands for 'Control Of Subtances Hazardous to Health'.

When preparing and carrying out procedures, involving chemicals, like perming andcolouring using personal protective equipment, like gloves and an apron is very importantbecause accidents do occur. You must prepare yourself for any possible hazard at all times.Information regarding protective equipment can be found in the C.O.S.H.H regulations andon product labels.

You have a responsibility under C.O.S.H.H. to store and use hazardous chemicals safely.

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Waste Disposal

Here are some reasons why waste should be disposed of correctly and how this should bedone.

PRODUCTS HOW? WHY?

Aerosols Fully empty. Don't bend orpierce container. Place in binthat will not contain hot ashes.

Highly flammable. Gassesmay ignite.

Chemical waste Dilute with water. Wash downbasin.

Contact with chemicalscan be harmful, but areless effective whendiluted.

Sharps/Glass Wrap up any sharps in paper ortissue before disposal incardbourd box.

Sharps and glass can bedangerous if not securelycontained.

Recyclablecontainers

Fully clean and dry containersbefore clearly marking them.

Ash (ashtrays) Be shure that ash fromashtrays is fully extinguishedand cool before disposal

Could start fire.

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Cross Infection

When open cuts and abrasions come into contact with pathogenic micro-organisms aninfection will occur. Cross infection is when these are passed from person to person, Tostop cross-infection from client to client it is important to check the client for anycontra-indications like cuts and abrasions on the scalp and sterilise tools before each client.

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Government Acts

All tools and equipment should be used in accordance with legislation and local by laws. Anemployer or employee could be liable if found to be ignorant of the salon rules based on thegovernment act.

To make the running and working of a salon safe for us the environment and for publicsafety these government acts were past.

1 - Provision and use of work equipment 19922 - Personal protective equipment at work 19923 - Manual handling operations regulations 19924 - Electricity at work regulations 19905 - Environmental protection 19906 - C.O.S.H.H. act 19897 - Health and safety at work act 19748 - Fire precautions act 19719 - The employers liability act 196910 - Ospra 1963

These laws and any information regarding them can be found at Contacting your localhealth and safety office or library.

Manufacturers of products and equipment are bound by their rules on health and safety andso are we. They must label their products and equipment with instructions, hazards and



precautions. When using products or equipment it is important to follow the manufacturersinstructions and precautions because all products and equipment are different and you mustbe made aware of any extra precautions that must be taken.

When handling products you have a responsibility to abide by the guidelines set by themanufacturer of the product, health and safety and the salon rules based on thegovernment acts.

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Handling and Storing

HANDLING STORING

Cutting tools Keep cutting tools fullysterilised. Be aware that youare using a sharp implement atall times.

Do not store in clothes orpockets. Make shure tools aresterile before storing in a pouchor similar container out of thereach of small children.

Perming /Relaxingproducts

Follow the manufacturersinstructions. Wear protectiveequipment when using. Cleanup any spillage immediately.

Store in fully labeled containersand keep containers in a cool,dry, locked cabinet in the stockroom.

Colouringproducts

Follow the manufacturersinstructions. Wear protectiveequipment when using. Cleanup any spillage immediately.

Store in fully labeled containersand keep containers in a cool,dry, locked cabinet in the stockroom.

Styling andfinishingproducts

Handle via the manufacturersinstructions.

Keep containers in a cool, dry,locked cabinet in the stockroom.

Electicalequipment

Know the manufacturersinstructions. Check equipmentregularly. Do not use nearwater unless specified by themanufacturers instructions.Make shure all points are cleanand switched off when not inuse.

Do not store electricalequipment with trailing flexes.Keep out of the way andswitched off.

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