2010

Guide to the Wines of Apulia and Basilicata

Director: Giuseppe De Tomaso

Edisud Spa - Viale Scipione l'Africano, 264 - Bari

Graphics and Coordination: Tirsomedia - Via Sangiorgi, 15 - Bari

Introductions to territories by the Apulian Wine Tourism Movement

Translation: Sarah Jane Christopher

Tasting Panel:

President of tasting panels: Leonardo Palumbo - President Oenologists’ Association

for Puglia, Basilicata, Calabria

Members:

Oenologists’ Association: Luigi Cantatore, Pasquale Tamborra, Giovanni Colucci,

Luca Petrelli, Benedetto Lorusso, Francesco Mazzone, Michele Savino,

Massimiliano Apollonio, Elio Minoia, Vincenzo Baldari, Angelo Mauriello,

Gianni Masi, Luigi Tarricone

Restaurateurs and wine retailers: Giuseppe Fato, Beppe Schino, Fulvio Nobile

Texts finished: 30 September 2009

Printing: Simeto Docks srl - Via B. Grassi, 7 - Catania

Printed: November 2009

Publicity: Publikompass Spa - Via G. Washington, 70 - Milan

© Edisud Spa 2009

All rights reserved Edisud Spa - BARI

Reg. Trib. Bari n. 45/04 15 October 2004

Codice DBK

ISBN 978-88-95281-17-9

guidavini@gazzettadelmezzogiorno.it

2010 edition

GUIDE TO THE WINESOF APULIA

AND BASILICATA

5

Introduction

Preface by Oenologists’ Association

How to read the guide

Excellence

Glassware

Bottles

Glasses

Cultivation systems

Apulia

Presentation Apulia

Doc Map of Apulia

Apulian vines

Daunia

Murge

Valle d'Itria

Messapia

Alto Salento

Basso Salento

Basilicata

Presentation Basilicata

Doc Map of Basilicata

Grapes Basilicata

Vulture and Sassi

Alphabetic index for Apulia

Alphabetic index for Basilicata

Index of place names in Apulia

Index of place names in Basilicata

6

8

10

13

17

18

21

25

29

30

32

35

43

67

111

129

173

233

261

262

264

267

271

298

305

307

315

INDEX

The year 2010 will see some positive changes, with consumption rising again

and the economy beginning to move once more.

The last year has been hard and tiring, making us even more determined to

support the producers of Apulia and Basilicata in their efforts to valorise and to

produce excellent wines. We also aim to help wine lovers by providing them with

a useful updated guidebook to help them discover as much as possible about

the fascinating wine culture of our two southern Italian Regions.

There are some new developments in the sixth edition of this guide to the wines

of Apulia and Basilicata. The first and most tangible novelty is the publication of

an English edition, because it is now evident that the reference market for our

wineries is the whole world. This is seen in the encouraging export figures, and

also in the many international promotional and marketing events involving our

two Regions. The English edition aims to contribute to this process of

international communication and to provide buyers, restaurateurs, wine sellers,

and overseas consumers with some needed information about the wines of

Apulia and Basilicata.

The second novelty concerns the tasting commission, this year conducted by

the Oenologists’ Association (Assoenologi). These experienced professionals

are directly involved in wine production and have carried out a careful and

objective evaluation of over six hundred labels. This has made it possible to see

wine from another viewpoint: that of the people who have inside knowledge of

the wine-growing and wine-making behind the production of quality wines.

Restaurateurs and expert consumers have also worked alongside the

6

INTRODUCTION

7

oenologists to make complete evaluations by giving the opinions of the “end

users” of the wine.

A new layout and new contents will make this information more easily

accessible, and readers will be able to appreciate the wines in a wider and more

articulated way – in a culinary context. There is a tribute to the traditional

cuisine of every single area of wine production, and we are certain that this will

make the many wine tourists who intend to visit the wine-growing lands of

Apulia and Basilicata curious to discover more.

We hope that these innovations will contribute to the development and growth

of the whole sector.

Leonardo Palumbo

President of Oenologists’ Association

for Puglia, Basilicata, Calabria

It is clear that a guidebook cannot cover all the vast and varied complexity of a

Region’s wines, but the intention here is like that of the previous editions: to

offer readers and potential consumers an updated map of the wines and

wineries whose excellent products deserve a mention. It is evident to all of us

that Apulian wineries have made giant steps in improving quality, with more

refined, balanced wines now consolidated on the market. These express their

terroir of course, but also correspond to the expectations of consumers who

have become more knowledgeable and demanding.

It is obvious that behind these wines there have been real revolutions in the

wineries, not only in the use of new technologies, but even more so in the skills

and expertise of the actual technicians involved. They are the real creators in

this process of wine-making which I would go so far as to call mystical,

because there is a mystical element in the way nature and its chemical

reactions encounter the creative fantasy of the oenologist. This combination

produces something which is always new and different, yet always true to

itself.

It is mystical because not everything can be explained, and not everything is

predictable; there is an arcane quantity which science cannot grasp, in the

transformation of geometrically perfect grapes into that lively liquid bursting

with energy, the drink of Dionysus. It is true that there is a mystical quality in

the patient waiting this transformation demands, as if there were a real life

developing from the plant materials to become an exhilarating spirit. We, as

experts, watch this development in amazement, and monitor it constantly

right to the end, applying our specialist knowledge and also our intuition so

that we offer nature, culture, history and tradition in one bottle. Wine is not just

a product, wine is the translation of a land, in all of its many forms of

expression.

I hope that this guide will help our readers to enjoy some moments of real

pleasure and satisfaction as you explore the wines of Apulia and Basilicata,

and that you will fall in love with these proud and generous lands.

Lama San Marzano

Maruggio

Marina di Pulsano

Pulsano

Grottaglie

Villa Castelli

Nardò

Tuglie

Alezio

Gallipoli

Cutrofiano

Aradeo

CollepassoCutrofiano

Depressadi Tricase

ParabitaNovoli

San PancrazioSalentino

Salice Salentino

Copertino

Campi Salentina

Veglie (MAGLIANO)

Squinzano

FasanoTrinitapoli

Conversano

Turi

Cassano

Santeramo

Castellana Grotte

Minervino Murge

The guide invites you to discover the wines of Apulia

and Basilicata and gives a complete description of the

wineries in each territory.

The two regions are introduced by maps showing the

main vines of the area and the list of recognised Doc

and Igt wines. Alphabetic indexes of the wineries and

territories complete the guide.

THE TERRITORIES

SASSI ANDVULTURE

BASSO SALENTOALTO SALENTO

DAUNIA MESSAPIAVALLE D’ITRIAMURGE

The macro-areas are a sub-division of the

territory according to typology of the wine-

growing area.

Apulia has six large areas: Daunia, Murgia,

Valle d’Itria, Messapia, Alto Salento and

Basso Salento.

10

RIONERO IN VULTURE

BARILE

MELFI

VENOSA

POTENZAPOTENZA

MATERAMATERA

LAVELLO

Viggiano

BANZI

TURSI

RAPOLLA

ROCCANOVA

NOVASIRI

HOW TO READTHIS GUIDE

GUIDE TO THE WINESOF APULIA

AND BASILICATA

2010 edition

THE SIMBOLS

Average wine with interesting room for development

The winery trade mark

Brief descriptionof the winery

Winery details

Evaluations

Types

The evaluation of the wine is shown by a bottle. The points are expressed in sections of the bottle. These range from a minimum of two to a maximum of five for an excellent wine.

Good wine with good character

Excellent, elegant wine

Excellent wine with excellent character

The producer’schoice of wines

White Rosé Red

Other winesproduced

11

HOW TO READ THIS GUIDE

THE EXCELLENCES

DAUNIA

MURGE

VALLE D'ITRIA

MESSAPIA

Il Griccio Rosso da dessert 2008Agricole Alberto Longo

La Dama Forestiera di d'Araprì 2003d`Araprì Spumante Classico

Primitivo Gioia del Colle Riserva Rosso doc 2006Azienda Agricola Giuliani Raffaele

Il Paturno Puglia Rosso igt 2007Barsento

Tufjano Puglia Bianco igt 2008Colli della Murgia

Pungirosa Castel del Monte Rosato doc 2008Rivera

0,618 Castel del Monte Riserva Rosso doc 2000Santa Lucia

Masseria Maìme Salento Rosso igt 2007Tormaresca

Faraone Valle d'Itria Bianco igt 2008I Pastini

Madrigale Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale doc 2006Produttori Vini Manduria

Sessantanni Primitivo di Manduria doc 2006Feudi di San Marzano

Es Primitivo di Manduria Rosso doc 2007Gianfranco Fino Viticoltore

Passione Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale doc 2003Vinicola Savese

APULIA

THE EXCELLENCES

14

THE EXCELLENCES

ALTO SALENTO

BASSO SALENTO

Leucos Salento Bianco igt 2008Azienda Agricola Giovanni Petrelli

Teresa Manara Salento Rosso igt 2006Cantele

Selvarossa Salice Salentino Riserva Rosso doc 2005Cantine Due Palme

Saturnino Salento Rosato igt 2008Tenute Rubino

Nero Conti Zecca Salento Rosso igt 2006Azienda Agricola Conti Zecca

15

BASILICATA

Teodosio Aglianico del Vulture doc 2007Azienda Agricola Basilisco

Il Sigillo Aglianico del Vulture doc 2005Cantine del Notaio

Terre di Orazio Aglianico doc 2007Cantina di Venosa

GLASSWARE

Bordeaux. Derives its name from the Bordeaux region. Shaped like a cylinder with pronounced shoulders.

Classic Bordeaux. Slightly lowerthan the Bordeaux.

The development of wine bottles is connected to two main

factors: the local traditions, and the commercial needs of the

producers. The shape, colour, and the material of which they

are made are always the result of a combination of local

culture and concrete technical advantages. In this section

you will discover, observe, and recognise some examples of

bottles which differ in their area of origin and in their base,

body, shoulders and neck.

BOTTLES

18

Champagne.Made from a particular type of glass, thickerthan usual to withstand internal pressure.

Alsace or Rhine. Derives its namefrom the Rhineland area. Elongated formwithout shoulders.

Albeisa. Derives its name from the Alba area in Piemonte.

Burgundy. Shake like a conewith a long neck and no shoulders.

19

BOTTLES

High shouldered Bordeaux 0.5 litre.Generally used for sweet wines due to its size.

ChampagneCuvée.Similar toChampagne but with a wider base.

Amphoretta or Provençale. Typical of Verdicchio and Côte de Provence, hence the two names.

High shouldered Bordeaux. Also called Goliath, and one of the most common types.

20

BOTTLES

Flûte. The typical glass for champagne and dry sparkling wines.

Medium glass used for medium-structured white winesand young reds.

Wine tasting involves the eyes, the nose and the tongue. In

order to correctly evaluate wine it is important for wine

glasses to have some very precise features. They must be

transparent and odourless, and can be made of glass or

crystal, with different shapes according to the wine they

have to contain. Here we will show you some pictures of the

most commonly used wine glasses and tell you for which

wines they are most suitable. Glasses can be tulip-, apple- or

egg-shaped, for still wines, sparkling wines or spirits.

WINE GLASSES

21

Balloon glass for classic structured red wineswith few tannins.

Like the balloon this is suitable for important red wines, but with more tannins.

Its long stem and medium capacity make this glass suitable for aromatic white winesand rosé wines.

This glass is suitable for full-bodied and medium-structured reds or for important white wines.

WINE GLASSES

22

Distinctive glass for fruit spirits and grappa.

Tulip glass with a slight outward curve at the rim, and ideal for wines made using dried grapes.

A widerand taller glass for wines with an extraordinary, superlative structure.

Glass for sweet “muffati” wines, gently shake and curved inwards at the rim.

WINE GLASSES

23

CULTIVATIONMETHODS

Apulia contains much of the variability of the Italian wine scene, in

terms of the different types of vines grown here, the different cultivation

systems, the levels of production, and the types of wine made: it is a

kind of “laboratory” which has turned out some splendid flavours for

decades, and also come to the aid of wine production in many other

regions.

Vines are grown in our region which have a “flowering-maturation”

cycle of 90 days and then about 145 days of growth, with production

levels ranging from 4-5 tonnes per hectare to eight or nine times this

figure, with different cultivation methods.

The traditional “alberello” head training system is still a feature of the

Salento countryside, but is constantly losing ground. The alberello is

almost condemned to disappear because of the cultivation costs it

involves, but it encapsulates the ancient history, the elegance of form,

the perfection of plant physiology, the ancestral bond between man

and vine and the handing on of an “inheritance” from one generation to

another.

The trellis system of cultivation using Cordon Training with vertical

shoot positioning and Guyot or cordon pruning, is now the favourite

choice among growers, in a kind of extraordinary, silent revolution. In

this way high plant density can be combined with highly mechanised

crop management and increased potential for wine production.

The more extensive type of tendone trellis cultivation system survives

in the Capitanata area near Foggia; this is a technique which

maximises production levels, and at the same time produces decent

wines.

CULTIVATIONS

26

alberello

controspalliera

CULTIVATIONS

27

tendone

APULIA

Dario Stefàno

Apulia Region

Agro-Food Resources Councillor

To recount a Region through its wines is a bit like going on a journey of

discovery. A journey which, as far as I am concerned, never fails to astonish

and enchant. I have also had the opportunity to make this journey in my work

as Regional Councillor for Agro-Food Resources. It has been a real journey,

involving meetings, fact-finding trips, handshakes and frank and honest

exchanges. One of the most meaningful experiences for me has been the

inauguration of the 2009 Grape Harvest. I chose to be right there “in the field”

with the rows of vines and to travel around Apulia, in the midst of the men and

women who have a tireless commitment to this key sector of our economy.

Wine production is the sector which best tells the story of Apulian production

to the whole world. And Apulia produces quality. This is the only mean we have

of overcoming the difficulties posed by the present economic situation and the

effects of an unprecedented world crisis. As I write, the first data are starting to

arrive from the Grape Harvest which has just closed. These data confirm the

PRESENTATION

initial predictions of a drop in output, of around 15%, caused by rather bizarre

weather conditions; high temperatures were followed by unusual rains

penalising all our southern regions. Despite the drop in production, Apulia

with its 5,900,000 hectolitres (source: Oenologists’ Association) is still a

leading wine producer, second only to the Veneto and Emilia Romagna. And

quality – according to the same source – is at good levels, with some peaks of

excellence. Let’s remember that Apulia continues to be among the most

“ennobled” regions, with its 26 DOC wines and its six proposed DOCG wines.

When this is considered together with the proposed changes to the

regulations for the production of many DOC wines, the establishment of two

denominations linking the name of the vine to its territory (Negroamaro di

Terra d’Otranto and Terre di Nero di Troia), and the proposed modifications for

Apulian IGT wines, then we have tangible signs of an Apulia directed towards

quality, fortified by its unending heritage of local vine varieties. The ambition

is to become leading players on the world wine scene, due to this inimitable,

unique quality, in which we should all invest.

PRESENTATION

Trinitapoli

Cassano

Santeramo

MANFREDONIA

Minervino Murge

TERRITORIES OF APULIAN WINES:

MURGE

GIOIA DEL COLLEPrimitivoAleaticoTrebbiano toscano

GRAVINAMalvasia del ChiantiGreco di TufoBianco d'Alessano

CASTEL DEL MONTENero di TroiaAglianicoBombino neroPampanutoChardonnaySauvignonPinot biancoPinot nero

ROSSO BARLETTA Nero di Troia

MOSCATO DI TRANIMoscato bianco(loc. Moscato di Trani o Reale)

ROSSO DI CANOSANero di Troia

ALEATICO DI PUGLIA

DAUNIA

SAN SEVEROBombino biancoTrebbiano toscanoMontepulciano d'AbruzzoCACC'E MMITTE DI LUCERANero di TroiaMontepulcianoORTANOVASangioveseNero di TroiaROSSO DI CERIGNOLANero di TroiaNegroamaro

Novoli

Adelfia

Conversano

Turi

Cassano

Santeramo

Lama San Marzano

Maruggio

San PancrazioSalentino

Salice Salentino

Copertino

Nardò

Tuglie

Alezio

Gallipoli

Taviano

Cutrofiano

Castellana Grotte

Fasano

Marina di Pulsano

Pulsano

Campi Salentina

Torre S. Susanna

Veglie (MAGLIANO)

Aradeo

CollepassoCutrofiano

Depressadi Tricase

Parabita

Squinzano

Crispiano

Grottaglie

Villa Castelli

VALLE D'ITRIA

MESSAPIA

DOC, IGT AND MAIN WINES

ALTO SALENTO

ALEZIONegroamaro

LEVERANOMalvasia bianca Negroamaro

MATINONegroamaro

NARDÒNegroamaro

GALATINANegroamaroChardonnay

BASSO SALENTO

COPERTINONegroamaro

BRINDISINegroamaro

SQUINZANONegroamaro

SALICE SALENTINONegroamaroAleaticoChardonnayPinot bianco

LOCOROTONDOVerdecaBianco d'Alessano

OSTUNIImpignoOttavianello

MARTINA FRANCAVerdecaBianco d'Alessano

LIZZANONegroamaroMalvasia neraTrebbiano toscano

PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIAPrimitivo

COLLINE JONICHE TARANTINEPrimitivo ChardonnayVerdecaCabernet SauvignonPrimitivo

APULIANGRAPES

BIANCO D’ALESSANO

This is one of the white grapes of the Murge and Valle d'Itria areas. We find it in Gravina, Martina, Locorotondo, Ostuni and Lizzano doc wines. In recent years there has been great interest in some wines which use this variety unblended.

BOMBINO BIANCO

This is a grape grown in the whole region. It is the main variety used in some important white doc wines such as Castel del Monte (with pampanuto), San Severo (blended with trebbiano toscano) and Leverano (with malvasia bianca).

CHARDONNAY

An international vine in its regional expression. Chardonnay is obviously not a native of Apulia, but is very widespread here due to the excellent local conditions. Castel del Monte, Lizzano, Salice Salentino are doc wines which use this variety.

FIANO

Originally from neighbouring Campania, fiano has found its ideal habitat in Apulia, especially in the Valle d'Itria, and is used in the Locorotondo and Martina doc wines.

FRANCAVIDDA

The Upper Salento, especially the province of Brindisi, gives us another wonderful wine grape, used in Ostuni Doc blended with impigno, bianco d'Alessano and verdeca in percentages from 15 to 50%.

WHITE GRAPES

37

GRECO BIANCO

Greco is used in Gravina doc together with malvasia bianca and bianco d'Alessano, and is another example of a grape which expresses the character of this remarkable white wine-producing area.

MALVASIA BIANCA

This local variety is mostly blended in many Apulian doc wines, such as Cacc'e Mmitte di Lucera, San Severo, Locorotondo, Martina, Gravina, Lizzano and Leverano.

MOSCATO REALE

Moscato bianco or moscato reale are the names of one of the best known and most typical local grapevines in Apulia. Moscato grapes produce Moscato di Trani doc, a naturally sweet wine coming from the areas of Bari and Foggia, and is also produced as a sweet fortified wine.

PAMPANUTO

Castel del Monte doc is the wine which makes most use of pampanuto (also known as pampanino), used together with chardonnay or bombino bianco.

IMPIGNO

Here is a local variety, another “pearl” of Apulian wines. It is used in Ostuni doc in varying amounts from 50 to 85%, together with francavidda and also bianco d'Alessano and verdeca.

APULIAN GRAPES

38

SAUVIGNON

Here is another example of a non-native variety which has found an ideal habitat here in Apulia. Like chardonnay, it is used especially in the Castel del Monte, Lizzano and Salice Salentino doc wines.

VERDECA

Verdeca is very important in Locorotondo and Martina doc wines, used at 50 to 65%. It is also used in Gravina doc, with other important white grapes like bombino bianco or trebbiano toscano.

AGLIANICO

This variety is usually associated with neighbouring Basilicata, but also has a long tradition in Apulia, where it is very important in Castel del Monte doc, which specifically requires aglianico red and rosé.

ALEATICO

This native vine is present in the whole region and produces a naturally sweet wine. Aleatico is also the name of the doc wine which also uses negroamaro, malvasia nera and primitivo in lower percentages.

BOMBINO NERO

This variety is also known as “bambino” or “buonvino” and has a long history, with high productivity and abundant juice yields. It is mostly grown in Apulia, in the areas of Lizzano and Castel del Monte.

RED GRAPES

APULIAN GRAPES

39

MONTEPULCIANO

This variety is originally from outside Apulia, but has found a perfect environment here. Montepulciano is very widespread in the province of Foggia, used in the following doc wines: San Severo, Cacc'e Mmitte di Lucera, Ortanova, Rosso di Cerignola and Rosso Canosa, and also in the Castel del Monte and Lizzano doc wines, as well as in the Leverano, Copertino and Alezio doc wines from the Salento.

NEGROAMARO

This grape is the symbol of wine production in the Salento area, which is increasingly well known and closely connected with this variety which is also becoming more popular in other areas of Apulia. Negroamaro is used in Rosso di Cerignola doc, and also in Lizzano, Brindisi, Squinzano, Salice Salentino, Leverano, Copertino, Nardò, Galatina, Matino and Alezio doc wines.

NERO DI TROIA

The area known as “Frederick's lands”, which runs from the north of Bari province to the province of Foggia is best represented by nero di Troia. This variety alone or blended with other varieties is used in the Castel del Monte, Cacc'e Mmitte di Lucera, Ortanova, Rosso di Cerignola, and Rosso Canosa doc wines.

NOTARDOMENICO

This rare variety is grown in the Upper Salento, mostly in the province of Brindisi, and is used to produce Ostuni doc at a percentage of up to 15%.

MALVASIA NERA LECCE E BRINDISI

This grape is very widespread in the Salento peninsula, from the Taranto area right across to the provinces of Brindisi and Lecce. It is used in the Lizzano, Brindisi, Squinzano, Salice Salentino, Leverano, Copertino, Nardò, Matino and Alezio doc wines.

APULIAN GRAPES

40

OTTAVIANELLO

This is another example of a variety which has survived due to the persistence and passion of local growers. Ottavianello is grown in the province of Brindisi and is one of the varieties used in Ostuni doc.

PRIMITIVO

According to tradition, primitivo was planted first near Gioia del Colle in the Province of Bari by the Benedictine monks. Towards the end of the 1700s, the priest Don Filippo Francesco Indellicati selected a clone and called it “primativo” because it ripened early. This variety then found ideal growing conditions around Manduria in the Province of Taranto, and became a world ambassador for Apulian wines.

SANGIOVESE

Sangiovese did not originate in Apulia, but is widely cultivated in the region. It is used for San Severo, Cacc'e Mmitte di Lucera, Ortanova, Rosso di Cerignola and Rosso Canosa doc wines, but also for those from Gioia del Colle and Lizzano, as well as for the Salento doc wines - Brindisi, Squinzano, Leverano, Copertino, Alezio and Matino.

SUSSUMANIELLO

This variety is used in small percentages in Ostuni and Brindisi Doc wines, and in recent years has been rediscovered and used unblended to make wine. This is another confirmation of the deep attachment of Apulian growers to their homeland, and their untiring commitment to preserving and enhancing their heritage.

APULIAN GRAPES

41