grow your own special part 2

Grow Your Own special

www.liveforgardening.com

8 pages to help you grow great fruit and veg

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Grow Your Own special / Garden News 29

Part 2 of your free grow your own

guide

rSummer salads

rgrow tomatoes

rroot vegetables

rMoney-saving offers

30 The easiest fruit and veg to get started with -

strawberries and salad leaves. Grow these quick and simple crops for delicious home-grown treats all summer long.

32 Nothing beats the taste of a

sun-warmed tomato picked straight from the vine. Aubergines and peppers are grown in the same way - find out how.

34 The backbone of many great

recipes, easy root veg such as potatoes, carrots and onions are a must-have on all veg plots.

36 Great offers from Thompson & Morgan,

with free strawberry plants for every reader and money-saving deals on top grow-your-own kit.

Inside

30 Garden News / Grow Your Own special

Grow Your Own special / Part 28 pages to help you grow great fruit and veg

Simple startersrLettucerSalad leavesrLeafy vegetables for saladsrStrawberries

S alad vegetables are some of the easiest crops to grow and are a great way of introducing yourself

to veg growing. Things have come a long

way since the days of the traditional butterhead lettuce.

There’s now a huge choice of lettuces and salad leaves available to the home gardener including oriental varieties, leafy veg and varieties you can grow and harvest all year round.

Salad leaves are ideal for containers, window-boxes and

growing bags too, so you don’t need an allotment or large garden to grow them.

Sowings can be made undercover now and the first leaves of the season will be harvested in weeks.

Easy to growJust keep your salad crops weed free and well watered

What to growTraditional lettucer There are two main types of lettuce, ones

that form firm hearts, and others that are loose leaved,

without a firm centre. all

are easy

to grow, so what you choose is down to personal preference.

‘Crisphead’ are crunchy lettuce with crisp compact leaves that form a tight head with a very mild flavour. They need lots of water and fertilizer and so are more labour intensive to grow than other salad leaves.

‘Cos’/‘Romaine’ have long upright leaves that form a cylindrical head. leaves are generally green with thick, crisp, juicy ribs. Outer leaves are darker, while inner ones are blanched yellowish white. like crisphead lettuce, they take longer to mature than other salad leaves.

‘Butterhead’ have soft leaves that form a loose head. leaves can be green, red and bronze depending on the variety with a soft buttery texture and a sweet flavour.

Salad leavesr Salad leaves are easy to grow, needing little fertiliser and are perfect for harvesting early as young leaves. This makes them less prone to pests and less likely to bolt, as maturity is delayed by constant picking.

Growing specially selected salad leaf seed mixes is so much cheaper than buying them bagged from the supermarket and far tastier when picked straight from the garden.

Why not try: Rocket - a strong flavoured,

spicy salad leaf, with an almost peppery taste, which will really give salads an extra kick.

Corn salad – also called lambs lettuce, this is a mild tasting, soft textured salad leaf. Sow in late summer for a winter salad crop.

Land cress – a tasty substitute for watercress, grows quickly and is useful for winter salad leaves.

Sorrel – adds colour, texture and a sharp flavour to salads when harvested as young leaves.

Leafy vegr Many leafy vegetables are also perfect for using in salads if the leaves are harvested young. Try the baby leaves of beetroot, radish or young pea shoots.

Spinach is a useful leafy veg that can be harvested as a cut and come again salad leaf. It grows rapidly in summer and can be harvested regularly. Young leaves are crunchy and flavoursome and packed with iron.

Chard will add colour and flavour to salads. It’s tough,

tolerant and disease resistant. Taste-wise it resembles mellow spinach.

Pak choi, strictly speaking a brassica, is a heavy cropping oriental veg. Young leaves are fresh and succulent with a mild flavour and make an unusual cut and come again crop.

Mizuna – another decorative oriental leaf with glossy, serrated leaves and mustard-like flavour. Mizuna responds well to constant cutting.

DiD YOu knOw?Salad leaves are a

good source of calcium and iron

?

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1 All salad crops are best sown little and often. Most of them grow and

mature so quickly that it’s easy to end up with a glut of lettuce, ready to harvest at the same time. If left too long, lettuce and salad leaves will bolt. Choose your crops carefully and sow little and often and you could be harvesting and enjoying salads all year round.

Perpetual crops

2 Many salads don’t have to be left to grow and mature before

harvesting, but can be treated as “cut and come again” crops. Loose leaf lettuce, oriental mizuna and perpetual spinach can all be harvested a few leaves at a time, and it should be possible to get several flushes of growth from each sowing. Harvesting when young also means that plants can be grown more closely together, making them suitable for the smallest of plots.

Successional sowing

3 Constant cutting of salad leaves will eventually exhaust

them. To have a constant supply you need to sow little and often. Make new sowings outdoors every three weeks throughout spring and summer .

In the ground

4 All salad crops prefer well drained, humus rich, well prepared

soil. Before sowing

outdoors, cover the soil with cloches to warm it up. For summer crops, sow from mid spring onwards. For autumn and winter salads, sow late summer to mid autumn. Cover early and late sowings with cloches to protect against frost. Sow seed in drills. Keep crops well watered and weed-free and they should start producing leaves in a matter of weeks.

In containers

5 Salad crops are ideal for container growing. They don’t need a

massive container to do well and can be positioned somewhere convenient to harvest. Salad leaves don’t need the depth of soil that other crops do, which makes them perfect for window boxes and patio pots. Plants grown in containers will eventually become exhausted, but sowing a second batch of leaves in modules when you plant up the containers will allow you to replace them when necessary.

rFive steps to success with strawberries

rRecipe/ Pear, Stilton and Walnut salad

Part 2 oF youR free gRoW youR oWn

guide

How to grow

Pear, Stilton and Walnut Salad

Feeds 2

ingRedientS 1 large desert pear

1 small red onion, very thinly sliced

75g (2.5oz) Stilton cheese, crumbled into bite-sized pieces

Selection of salad leaves25g (3/4oz) walnut pieces¼ teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon red wine vinegar1 tablespoon walnut

or olive oilSmall pinch of caster sugar

Pinch of salt and pepper

What to do nextr Dry fry the walnut pieces in a small frying pan until toasted. Leave to cool. r Make the salad dressing by combining mustard, vinegar, oil, caster sugar and salt and pepper in a large bowl and whisking well. Add the thinly sliced onion to the dressing and mix well.r Quarter and thinly slice the pear and add to the bowl, coating with the dressing to stop the pear discolouring. r Add the salad leaves, cooled walnuts and crumbled Stilton and toss everything together gently.r Serve immediately.

Strawberriesr Strawberries must be the tastiest crop you can grow in beds and containers. There are lots of varieties to choose from and young plants will give you a crop in next to no time. If you want strawberries

throughout the summer, choose an ‘everbearer’ for the longest cropping season, from June to October. They’re also perfect for hanging baskets and containers if you don’t have space in the garden.

1 Plant young strawberry plants and

bare root runners now in a sunny spot in fertile, well drained soil. Don’t plant too deeply or they will rot. Water in well and keep watering regularly.

2 Alternatively, plant in containers of

multi-purpose compost, water well and stand in an unheated greenhouse or sheltered spot outside. Keep well watered as containers can dry out quickly.

3 Once fruit starts to form, spread straw

or strawberry mats around the plants to protect them from rain splash, slugs and snails. Net your plants to stop birds getting to your strawberries before you do.

4 Keep an eye out for slugs and snails and

check developing fruit regularly for mould.

5 After fruiting, prune off all old fruit

stems, leaves and runners and feed with a general purpose fertiliser.

How to grow DiD YOu knOw?

Feed strawberries with seaweed fertiliser for a

good crop

?



What to growr Tomato plants grow as either bushes or cordons. Cordons have a main stem which grows vertically (until you pinch out the top to stop it) while bush types grow with lots of sideshoots rather than a single main stem. Some bush tomatoes are described as ‘tumblers’ as these have lots of trailing stems that look good grown in pots or hanging baskets.

Cordons develop a succession of fruiting trusses as the main stem grows vertically, meaning that they generally fruit for longer. The fruiting trusses of bush tomatoes all tend to develop together, producing their crop over a shorter period of time.

Grow tomatoes O

nCe you’ve enjoyed home-grown tomatoes picked straight from the vine,

you’ll never want to eat shop-bought ones again.

There’s a huge choice of varieties available, from small, intensely sweet cherry types to huge beefsteak toms, so make your choice and give growing tomatoes a go this summer.

rChoosing varieties rHow to grow rCommon problems rAubergines and peppers

Varieties to try

r‘Gardener’s Delight’ rA cordon variety producing long trusses of small, sweet cherry tomatoes.

r‘Maskotka’tomato

rA bush variety perfect for growing in containers and hanging baskets.

r‘Tigarella’tomato

rAnother cordon variety producing lots of red, striped, well-flavoured tomatoes.

r‘Ailsa Craig’tomato rA traditional cordon variety producing lots of highly flavoured bright red fruit.

r‘Tumbling Tom’ rIdeal for baskets and containers from which heavy crops will gently crumble.

Terry’s Tip“Plant marigolds

in your greenhouse

alongside your tomatoes to

deter aphids and whitefly”

DiD YOu knOw?

There are more than 10,000 varieties of

tomatoes

?

Tasty TomsPacked with nutrients,

tomatoes are easy to grow and taste best

when freshly pickedTerry Walton

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Six steps to successful tomatoes

Part 2 of your free Grow your own

GuiDe

Where to growr You can grow tomatoes in the greenhouse or outdoors (either in containers or in the ground) but it’s important to select the right variety.

Greenhouse varieties will generally fruit earlier and longer than outdoor types. If you have the space, try growing some in the greenhouse and some outside.

How to growr Whatever variety of tomatoes you choose, they all need starting off under cover. Sow seed from mid February to early March for greenhouse varieties or mid to late March for outdoor types. But don’t sow too early otherwise you’ll end up with young plants ready to grow outside when it’s too early to plant.

Common problemsr Tomato plants are sensitive to heat, humidity and moisture levels. In the greenhouse high temperatures can cause fruit to split and develop hard, scorched patches so make sure you introduce some shade and damp down regularly.

Whitefly, aphids and red spider mite are also common greenhouse problems so try using biological controls such as parasitic wasps or yellow sticky traps.

Blight can attack outdoor crops causing leaves, stems and fruit to turn black and die. If you catch it early you can save plants by removing and destroying infected leaves. Some tomato varieties have been bred to resist blight.

rStep by step

1Sow seed thinly in pots or trays of multi-purpose

compost and cover with vermiculite or sieved compost. Stand in a heated greenhouse or propagator, or indoors. Seed should germinate in a couple of weeks.

2Prick out seedlings into 8cm (3in) pots when two true leaves

have formed, taking care not to handle the stems as the seedlings will wither. You’ll probably have more plants than you need so don’t feel guilty about discarding any weak ones.

3Pot on into the final position, inside or out, once flower buds

appear, plants are sturdy and about 15cm (6in) tall – usually around the end of April-May for greenhouse tomatoes, which can go into the border soil, growing bags or pots.

4Tomatoes grown outside need a sunny sheltered spot to

thrive, whether growing directly into the soil or in growing bags or containers of potting compost. Take care not to plant outside until after the last frost (usually mid-end May).

5Bush tomatoes don’t usually need any support but cordons

need staking and tying in regularly. Remove the side shoots on cordon tomatoes as they appear and pinch out the growing tip when about five fruiting trusses have developed.

6 Feed weekly with a high-potash liquid or soluble tomato

food and water daily. It’s particularly important to water consistently as irregular watering can lead to blossom end rot or cause the fruit to split and spoil.

How to growr Sow seed in March in a heated greenhouse or propagator or in April in a cold greenhouse. Scatter seed on the surface of already watered compost and cover with vermiculite or finely sifted compost. Pot on seedlings into individual pots when they are large enough to handle. When plants have developed three or four sets of leaves, pot them into their final pots – 22.5cm (9in) diameter is ideal. Pinch out the top of plants when they reach about 45cm (18in) tall to encourage them to bush out. Stake and tie in plants as they develp, feed with tomato food and keep well watered.

r Aphids, whitefly and red spider mite can all present problems and irregular watering may initiate blossom end rot but aubergines are essentially trouble free plants.

Varieties to tryr‘Black enorma’

r A popular variety producing large purple fruit from mid-summer through to autumn.

r‘Moneymaker’

r A reliable variety producing lots of slender aubergines per plant.

DiD YOu knOw?

Aubergines are known as eggplants because older

varieties had white egg-shaped fruits

?

Auberginesr Aubergines are related to tomatoes and are equally rewarding to grow, although you do need reliable and prolonged warmth to produce a decent crop. They’re best grown in a greenhouse as our UK summers are rarely warm or sunny enough for the fruit to develop and ripen outside. Aubergines develop into large leaved, sturdy plants with very pretty violet flowers and a surprising number of thorns, so take care when potting on and harvesting.

How to growr Chillies and peppers need warmth to germinate so sow seed and stand in a heated greenhouse or propagator. Sow seed now to give them as long a growing season as possible, germination should take about 10 days.When seedlings have developed at least two sets of true leaves, transplant into individual pots and grow on in the same way as tomatoes. When large enough, plant in growing bags or individual pots in the greenhouse. Move them outside into a sunny sheltered spot when frost has passed. Feed with tomato food and pinch out the growing tip so they bush out and produce more fruit.

Chilli peppers & sweet peppersr Chilli peppers and sweet peppers belong to the same family of plants and are just as easy to grow as tomatoes and aubergines. They’ll add lots of colour to your greenhouse or sunny windowsill and you’ll get far more variety growing your own than you can find in the supermarket.



Recommended varieties

rFirst earlies: r‘Rocket’, ‘Foremost’

rSecond earlies:

r‘Charlotte’, ‘Anya’

rEarly maincrop:

r‘Desirée’, ‘Maris Piper’

rLate maincrops: r‘Pink Fir Apple’, ‘Sarpo Mira’

Potatoes in containersrYou don’t need a big patch to grow your own. Potatoes can be grown in compost bags, special barrels or large pots, for a crop that’s arguably even better than one grown in the ground, thanks to how easy to harvest they are. When they’re ready, just tip them out and dust the compost off!

To chit or not to chit?rTraditionally, gardeners have been advised to ‘chit’ potatoes before planting. This means sitting your potatoes, eyes upwards, in a light, cool place so they develop fat green sprouts. You’re basically starting your potatoes into growth so when you plant them out they’re raring to go.rRecently, however, potato experts have argued that

chitting may ‘prematurely age’ potatoes, speeding things up at the start, but also decreasing the potential size of your crop. Planting into a warm soil is a better way to make sure your tubers grow, they argue, so chitting isn’t essential. Lots of gardeners are undecided so it’s worth trying both ways and seeing what results you get.

DiD YOu knOw?

Spuds do best in slightly acidic soil so don’t

add lime before planting

?

If You’re going to grow vegetables, potatoes are a must. They may not be expensive to buy from the supermarket, but producing your own is much more rewarding, perhaps due to the ‘surprise’

element that comes with them. It doesn’t matter how many times you’ve grown them, there’s nothing like unearthing beautiful tubers from below the soil and they taste delicious, especially when freshly dug.

Potatoes are divided into different groups depending on when they’re harvested: first earlies (harvested June-July, depending on where you live, the weather and when you planted them), Second earlies (July-August), early Maincrop (August-September) and Late Maincrop (from September onwards until the frosts). Choose potatoes from across the groups and you’ll be eating home-grown spuds all summer and beyond.

Plant potatoes in the same order as their groups starting with first earlies when the soil is warming up, not when it’s cold and wet. Bulk up the soil by digging in as much organic matter as possible before planting.

Plant potatoes 12cm (5in) deep at 30cm (12in) intervals (maincrops need more space) in rows spaced 60cm (2ft) apart.

Stand by with some fleece or polythene if a late frost is forecast to protect young shoots from damage. once your potatoes start to sprout, you need to ‘earth’ them up. The lengths of stem that you bury will produce more tubers

so by covering them you’re increasing your crop. Keep earthing the potatoes up as they grow.

Potatoes can be ready

when the plants start to flower or

when their leaves and stems start to turn yellow. Your best bet is to scrape away a bit of soil at either of these stages and see what’s going on under ground. Store your potatoes somewhere frost free. exclude light as this will turn them green and inedible.

Root vegetablesrHow to grow potatoes rEasy carrots, beetroot and parsnips rBest way to grow the onion family

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Carrots, parsnips & beetroot

Onions and shallots Leeks

Part 2 oF your free grow your own

guidE

rStep by step

DiD YOu knOw?

Giant onions bred for showing also make good edible crops

?

DiD YOu knOw?Young and tender

beetroot leaves make a tasty addition to

salads

?r root vegetables such as carrots and beetroot are easy to grow.

All need light, fertile soil which should be deeply dug to encourage long straight roots. It’s best not to add manure prior to planting as its richness can cause roots to fork or split. Manure in the autumn instead to give it time to rot down and mellow.

Sow seed direct into drills in the ground on an open site in full sun. Try to sow thinly following the spacings given on the packet as these will give you optimum sized roots. Water regularly and protect with fleece or cloches. fleece will help keep pests such as carrot root fly away. Carrots and beetroot can also be grown in containers.

r The onion family gives us valuable veg throughout

the year and should grow well without the need for a lot of attention.

Watering during dry spells, and vigilant hoeing are their only essential

requirements. They all like similar

conditions so it’s best to grow them

together as a group if you can.

rotating them to a different part of your garden each year is also a good idea to avoid the build up of disease. Well-drained, fertile soil in a sunny position is what they like best.

Beetrootr There’s so much more to beetroot than pickle. Boiled baby beets are wonderfully sweet and roasting really brings out their flavour. Beetroot is available in a surprising range of shapes and colours. Sow bolt-resistant varieties such as ‘Boltardy’ in March and others such as ‘Red Ace’ from the end of April onwards. By making regular sowings and harvesting when young you can have beetroot from early summer right through until autumn.

Carrotsr Once you’ve tasted home-grown carrots you’ll never want to eat shop-bought ones again. You can harvest carrots from late spring right through to mid winter. Early varieties such as ‘Nantes’ are small and quick to mature. Maincrop varieties such as ‘Autumn King’ are larger, take longer to mature and can be stored.

Sow seed as thinly as possible to avoid having to thin as this can attract carrot root fly

Parsnipsr Don’t be put off by the time parsnips take to mature, as the sweet flavour produced is well worth the wait. Parsnips need very little attention. Harvest baby parsnips in late summer or leave them to mature into winter. ‘Avonresister’ is a good variety to try.

Onion seed or sets?r There are two ways to grow your main crop of onions; by sowing seed or planting sets (small bulbs). Both ways have their merits and should reliably produce a good crop so it’s a case of choosing which method is right for you.

SetsPlant onion sets outside in March or April. Make a shallow drill with a hoe and plant fat end down so the tip of each set is just above the soil surface. Space each one 10cm (4in) apart and leave 25cm (10in) between each row. Cover them with netting or fleece to stop birds from pulling them up.

+ Very easy to grow; just plant them and let them grow where they are+ It’s easy to control the amount you want to grow+ You will get a crop quicker than from seed– Bolting is more likely (unless you get heat treated sets which are less prone)

SeedSow onion seed indoors in January or February, and make outdoor sowings in early spring. Sow indoors in cell trays of multi purpose compost. Keep at a temperature of about 15C (59F) and plant out when seedlings have two pairs of true leaves. Space rows 30cm (12in) apart. Thin out to 10cm (4in) apart or further for bigger onions.

– More expensive than seed+ You get more varieties to choose from+ A cheaper option than sets+ Less prone to bolting– A more time consuming way of growing– Germination can be erratic+ Seed-grown onions oftenstore better

rFor and against

r Leeks like deep, fertile soil that has had plenty of organic matter dug in. Add a general fertiliser at the same time.

r Sow seed in March–April in modules or an outdoor seedbed. When seedlings are about 20cm (8in) tall, transplant into rows in your vegetable patch. use a dibber to make deep, wide holes about 20cm (8in) apart, drop each leek into its hole, and water in.

Keep plants weed free, water in dry spells and feed with a general fertiliser half way through the growing season.

Harvest as required. Mature leeks can be left in the ground, provded they are disease free.

If the ground freezes leeks can be difficult to lift, so if frost is forecast, dig some up in advance and heel them into a trench filled with compost.

‘Musselburgh Improved’ is a reliable variety to try.

How to do it

1Choose an open sunny site with deep fertile soil and

dig in lots of well-rotted manure in autumn. Depending on how many potatoes you’re planting, you can either dig a trench or plant them in individual holes.

2Plant chitted potatoes 13cm (5in) deep and far

enough apart to give them sufficient growing space. Early potatoes should be planted 30cm (12in) apart in rows that are 60cm (2ft) apart. Second earlies and maincrop varieties need a bit more room so plant these 38cm (15in) apart in rows 75cm (2ft 6in) apart.

3 Keep your potatoes weed-free and start to earth up plants

once shoots reach about 15cm (6in) tall. Use a draw hoe to do this, creating a ridge of soil over the potatoes, with furrows between the rows.

4For the best results, water your potatoes regularly

in dry weather. Start to harvest once flowers appear, using a fork to carefully lift your crop.

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Grow Your Own special

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grow your own special part 2

Documents

salad leavesr salad

soft leaves

salad crops

upright leaves

outer leaves

young leaves

corn salad

spicy salad leaf