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GROW YOUR OWN FOOD A PRACTICAL INTRODUCTORY COURSE December 7, 2013 Raluca Mocanu & Edward Wazer Shundahai Farm

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GROW YOUR OWN FOOD. A PRACTICAL INTRODUCTORY COURSE December 7, 2013 Raluca Mocanu & Edward Wazer Shundahai Farm. Agenda. Starting Requirements for Successful Growing 9:05-9:30 Sun Exposure (Ed) 9:30-9:55Soil Fertility (Raluca) - PowerPoint PPT Presentation

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Page 1: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

GROW YOUR OWN FOODA PRACTICAL INTRODUCTORY COURSE

December 7, 2013

Raluca Mocanu & Edward WazerShundahai Farm

Page 2: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Starting Requirements for Successful Growing9:05-9:30 Sun Exposure (Ed)9:30-9:55 Soil Fertility (Raluca)9:55-10:15 Animal Management – Fencing & Rodent Problems (Ed)Preparing the Growing Area 10:15-10:40 Soil Preparation (Ed)10:40-10:50 Break10:50-11:30 Plant/Seed Selection, Planting Times, Spacing, Methods (Raluca)Ongoing Maintenance11:30-11:45 Weeds (Raluca)11:45-12:00 Insects (Raluca)12:00-12:45 Lunch12:45-1:00 Common Diseases (Raluca)1:00-1:30 Water (Ed)The Harvest, Putting Garden to Rest, Resources, and Field Walk1:30-1:45 Harvest Frequency & Storage Information (Raluca)1:45-1:55 Putting garden to rest for the year (Raluca)1:55-2:00 Resources (Raluca)2:00-4:00 Field Walk – Tools, row covers, mulch, covercrops, seed spacing, etc.

Agenda

Page 3: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Starting Requirements

• Sun• Soil• Water• Animal Protection

Page 4: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Sun ExposureHelp you Determine• Hours of sun your site will receive• Influence of time of year

Questions to ask Yourself• What do I want to grow?• What time of year do I expect to grow?• Will I Cut Trees?

Page 5: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Sun Exposure

EW

S

Understand Your Site• Where is North?• Are there trees around

your garden site?• What will their impact

be?• Are you on a slope?Assessing Garden Placement• Determine what your

plants will experience• Face the sun at noon• Fall backwards• Stretch arms to side

– E/W Sunrise at equinox

N

Page 6: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Sun ExposureWe’ll Look at arc and sun angle for:• June 21 – longest day of the year• April 21/Aug 21 – 2 months earlier/later• Feb 21/Oct 21 – 2 months earlier/later• Dec 21 – 2 months earlier/late – shortest

day of the year

Page 7: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

0102030405060708090

90180270

Altit

ude

(deg

)

West South East

Sun ExposureJune & July• Sun swings a large arc• 15 hours of sun,

5:15am-8:30pm• Sun is almost directly

overhead (72o) at mid-day

• Trees East & West will have the greatest impact on your planting

Growing Info• Most crops love June,

but some crops won’t like the heat of July

E

N June 21st

Summer Solstice

EW

S

Page 8: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

0102030405060708090

90180270

Altit

ude

(deg

)

West South East

Sun ExposureApril→May & Aug→Sept• Sun swings a large arc• 13.5 hours of sun• Sun is relatively high

(61o) in the sky at noon• Again, trees East & West

will likely have the greatest impact on your planting

Growing Info• Excellent time of year to

grow• Be careful of frosts

through mid-May

N Apr 21st / Aug 21st

EW

S

Page 9: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

0102030405060708090

90180270

Altit

ude

(deg

)

West South East

Sun ExposureFeb→Mar & Oct-Nov• 11 hours of sun• Trees in the arc from SE

to SW will have the greatest impact on your growing

• Sun low in the sky (38o)

Growing Info• Slow growth, but can

get a jump in the spring, and crops in the fall will hold on

• Spring and fall will require plastic

N Feb 21st / Oct 21st

EW

S

Page 10: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

0102030405060708090

90180270

Altit

ude

(deg

)

West South East

Sun ExposureDecember → January• Only a small arc around

due South is critical• 9 hours of sun• The sun is very low (25o)

in the sky and trees to the South must be far away from the planting area

Growing Info• Only a few plants will

grow at this time of year; minimal growth occurs

• Plastic covers required

N

EW

S

December 21st

Winter Solstice

Page 11: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Sun ExposureHours of Sunlight at different times of the year and different distances from a tree line

21-Dec21-Feb / 21-Oct

21-Apr / 21-Aug 21-Jun

X feet50 0 0 4.5 5.5

100 0 4 8 9150 3 6.5 9.5 10.5200 5 7.5 10.5 11.5300 6.5 8.5 11.5 12.5400 7 9 12 13.5

2000 8.5 10.5 13.5 14.5max 9 11 13.5 15

Distance (in feet) from 60 feet Tall Trees

Hours of Sunlight Received when X feet from 60' Tall Trees

Page 12: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Sun ExposureSolar Radiation• Day length & angle of incidence impact• ⅓ to ½ energy available cold months relative to summer• Note that March & April are better than October

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Average Daily Radiation on Horizontal Surface(kWh/m2/day)

High Growth Months

Slow Growth Months

Page 13: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Sun ExposureTake home messages• If trees surround your garden and are 50 feet away or

less – hot weather crops will not thrive• For late spring / summer season, focus on cutting trees

East and West of garden• If you want to extend season into the fall, cut trees to

the south• March and especially April get plenty of sun – plant

early!• If shade is a fact of life:

– check out Mother Earth News – Best Shade-Tolerant Vegetables By Colleen Vanderlinden

http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/shade-tolerant-vegetables-zm0z11zsto.aspx

Page 14: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Sun Exposure

Questions?

Page 15: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

SOIL FERTILITY• What good soil looks like:

–granulation (crumbly, stable), aeration (porous), water infiltration

–Organic Matter, soil cover, soil biology are key

• Soil tests: why, when, how to take?–Why: mineral levels, humus, indicative of

biological activity–Soil contamination – Lead, Arsenic, other

heavy metals? Test if suspected.

Page 16: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

SOIL FERTILITY

• Soil tests: why, when, how to take?–When: fall, before ground is frozen

• Consistency is very important–How: Soil probe and follow instructions–Where we go: Crop Services International

(CSI)–How often: yearly for first 3 years, then

every other year

Page 17: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

SOIL FERTILITY

• Interpreting soil test results–Sample soil test report– Recommendations & consultation with

CSI• Follow-up:

–Order soil amendments from Fedco–Plan and follow a basic fertility program

Page 18: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

SOIL FERTILITY

Basic fertility program: what to apply, when

1. Broadcast rock powders to balance minerals

2. Compost for organic matter and to sustain biological activity

3. Liquid fertilizers: fish and seaweed to sustain biology

Page 19: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

SOIL FERTILITY• Compost: important for organic matter and

to stimulate biology–On new ground, start with ~1in.–Decrease in future years as humus level

increases–Too little or too much compost can be

problematic– Blue Slope 860 642 7084 – pick up with your own

vehicle or small deliveries possible (delivery ~ $50 for 4yard truck)

– Beltane Farm 860 208 2887 / Kato Corner 860 537 3884

Page 20: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

SAMPLE SOIL TEST REPORT

Page 21: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

SAMPLE SOIL TEST REPORT

Page 22: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

SAMPLE SOIL TEST REPORT

Page 23: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

SAMPLE SOIL TEST RECOMMENDATIONS

Page 24: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

SAMPLE SOIL TEST RECOMMENDATIONS

Page 25: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

SAMPLE SOIL TEST RECOMMENDATIONS

Page 26: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

SOIL FERTILITY

Questions?

Page 27: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Animal ManagementFencing needed for…• Deer• Woodchucks• Rabbits• Raccoons

Other furry pests…• Rodents: mice, moles, voles, shrews

Page 28: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Animal ManagementDeer – What you need

– 8 feet fence recommended– 6-7 feet may work for small garden– Posts

• Cedar• or Metal

– Fencing• Plastic• or Metal

– Gate

Page 29: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Cedar Posts• buried 2½-3ft

– (need 11ft pole)• Space 25ft apart• Posthole digger & metal bar best for digging hole• Time: ½ hour per hole• Cost: $15-25 per post• Where: Lou Chilly, Chaplin 377-0066, or craigslist

Animal Management

Page 30: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Animal ManagementMetal Posts• likely need two poles bolted together

– bolt together after pounding in the ground• Support is needed, rope or cable to the ground to a

metal bar– These supports are annoying (trip over, mow around)

Page 31: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Animal ManagementMetal Posts (continued)• Post pounder needed

– sledge hammer destroys the post for bolting together• Space 10-15ft part• Time: 5 minutes per post• Cost: $8 per section (two metal posts)• Where: Mansfield Supply, Willard's, Thompsons,

Mackeys, John’s scrap metal

Page 32: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Animal ManagementFencing• Plastic (available from Mansfield Supply,

Thompsons)– Advantages:

• very inexpensive ($30 for 100ft X 7ft) • Fairly easy to install

– Disadvantages: • deer may rip through it, can’t see it at night• Buttons of shirts always getting hung up on it

Page 33: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Animal ManagementFencing (continued)• Metal – chicken wire or other metal fence

(available from Thompsons)– Advantages:

• Deer won’t get through• Keeps out woodchucks (if buried)

– Disadvantages:• More expensive and harder to install

Page 34: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Animal ManagementGate – Options • Make out of wood

– Use chicken wire or finer mesh– Wood available from Willards, Mansfield Supply– Chicken wire or mesh from Mansfield Supply, Willards

• or Chain link– Buy used from John’s scrap metal, off of Rt. 6 (Columbia)

• No gaps at bottom, keep out woodchucks– Sill to prevent from going under

Page 35: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Animal ManagementWoodchucks, Rabbits, Raccoons

• Woodchucks – Can be devastating to a garden

• Rabbits – moderate pest, much less than woodchuck

• Raccoons – known for eating corn (and killing chickens)

Page 36: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Animal ManagementWoodchucks, Rabbits, Raccoons • Keeping them out

– Woodchucks will dig under fences• Need to bury chicken wire 1 ft deep around garden

– Woodchucks and Raccoons will climb over• Wire should extend at least a few feet above ground and

“sewn” with upper fence– Chicken wire from Mansfield Supply or Thompsons– Other Options for Woodchucks

• Flush them out of their hole, deluge of water• Have-a-Heart traps• Easy to shoot with a .22 rifle

Page 37: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Animal ManagementRodents: Mice, Moles, Voles, Shrews• Can be devastating to roots, tubers and even

spinach• Solutions

– Cats - we have little to no damage since getting cats• They must have access to the garden

– Snap traps at rodent hole entrances• Dig a small trench at entrance holes• Use wooden traps with yellow “cheese”• Bait with peanut butter, re-bait every few days

Page 38: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Animal Management

Questions?

Page 39: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Soil PreparationFrom Sod to Garden Soil• Goals

– Kill sod, including quackgrass– Eliminate thick fibrous roots– Loosen subsoil

• Different Methods– Double-digging– Mulch Coverage– Clear Plastic Burn– Mechanical Tillage– Raised Beds

Page 40: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Soil PreparationDouble-digging• Process

– Dig a trench the width of the garden, one foot deep, placing soil on surface or in wheelbarrow

– Loosen soil at bottom of trench using spading fork

– Expand the 1 foot deep trench, putting the new soil from the top 1 foot into the previous trench

• Flop over sod, putting at bottom of 1 foot trench • Mix in compost at the same time

– Continue for the entire garden area

Page 41: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Soil PreparationDouble-digging (cont)

• Pros – Best method for the long-term success of your garden– Can plant soon after

• Con– A lot of work

• Sources:John Jeavons: How to Grow More Vegetables

Page 42: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Soil PreparationMulch Coverage• Process

– Put 1 inch layer of manure or compost over garden area– Put 12 inches of mulch: leaves, hay or straw over garden area– Weed whenever something starts growing through mulch– Wait one year– Remove mulch and plant (do not incorporate mulch!)

• Pros: – Very healthy for the soil– Minimal effort

• Cons: – Takes one year– Sub-soil not loosened

Page 43: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Soil PreparationClear Plastic Burn• Process

– Lay clear plastic over garden area– Weigh down edges, tighter the better– Wait months– Loosen using a shovel, till lightly or mulch over winter

• Pros: – Easy– Kills quackgrass

• Cons: – Need to do at the hottest time of the year– Sub-soil not loosened

Page 44: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Soil PreparationMechanical Tillage• Process

– Put 1 inch layer of manure or compost over garden area– Till garden with roto-tiller– Wait 4 weeks, depending on soil structure, till again– Loosen soil with rake and Plant

• Pros – Its fast and easy– Good growth first year– Breaks up sod

• Cons– Causes soil compaction and damages soil structure– Sub-soil not loosened– Need to rent or buy tiller, or hire someone

Page 45: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Soil PreparationRaised Beds• Process

– Build raised bed structure to desired height (8 to 12 inches)– Width of 3’ reasonable, length as much as desired– Bring in quality soil: mix of fill, topsoil and compost/manure

• Pros – Excellent for wet soils, raised beds will stay drier– Can plant immediately– Weeds won’t encroach– Slightly less bending

• Cons– A lot of work– Need to find uncontaminated soil– Bed barriers will rot, or you’ll need to use pressure treated wood

Page 46: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Soil Preparation

Questions?

Page 47: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

PLANT AND SEED SELECTION• How many plants and of what type?

–consider growing area–yields–planting & harvest schedules–crop needs (trellising, picking, covering)–pests & disease

• Make a week-by-week planting schedule• Plan to feed your family year-round from

your garden

Page 48: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

10-Mar 17-Mar 24-Mar 31-Mar 7-Apr 14-Apr 21-Apr 28-Apr1-lettuces(E06,E06) 2-spinach(E04-05) 1.5-carrots(E10-11) 1.5-beets(C04,J06) 5-kale(C01-03,S01-02) 2-spinach(J02-03) 2-carrots(C19,E32) 2X2-tomato, field(H07,H07)2-carrots(E07-08) 3-beets(E09,W05,W09) 1.5-radishes(E11,W10) 0.67-arugula(N04,N04) 2-carrots(C21,S21) 5.5-lettuces(N20,N22,N24,N 2-lettuces(F10,S19) 4X2-tomato, cherry(H01,H031.4-lettuces(W06-07) 2-claytonia(W04,W11) 5-peas, snap(Y01-03,Z01-02 1.33-spicy mix(N04,S04) 2-cabbage(Y04-05) 26,N28,W01) 2-spicy mix(X24,J04) ,H03,H03)2-carrots(W08,X03) ) 2-carrots(S20,X22) 4-broccoli(Y06,Z04-06) 0.67-arugula(W33,W33) 1.5-spinach(J05-06) 3X2-tomato, field(H05,H05,

2-spinach(J01,Z03) 1-lettuces(Y06) 10-onions(Y07-11,Y11,Z07-1 0.33-spicy mix(W33) 2-radishes(X28,Z11) H05)0) 2-chard(J07,J07,J07-08-08) 2-tomato, heirloom(H05,N03

)2-spicy mix(X26,E29)2-lettuces(E30-31)1-beets(J09,J09)

26 Total Beds 7 Total Beds 10 Total Beds 6.5 Total Beds 23 Total Beds 8.5 Total Beds 11.5 Total Beds

5-May 12-May 19-May 26-May1-bok choy(W29,W29) 3-carrots(C16-17,C20) 1.25352112676056X2-lettuce 2-eggplant(C14-15) 1.5X2-tomato, field(E24,E2 2.5-peppers(Y17-19) 6.5-lettuces(E01,E01-02-03 0(X01-02)

2-arugula(N07,S16) s(N06,X05) 6-lettuces(N08,N10,N12,N14 6) 1-eggplant(Y20,Y20) ,W01-02-04) 2-cacahuates(Y32-33)2-carrots(S17,Z24) 1.6056338028169X2-cucumber ,N16,N18) 1.5X2-tomato, heirloom(E26 2-beans, bush(Z15-16) 0.55-Lovage 20"-30(X01-02- 8-potatoes(Z23,F01-03,Y21-

s, slicers(X05,X07,X07,X07) 2-eggplant(S14-15) ,W24) 5-peppers(Z17-20) 02) 22,Z21-22)1.39171259440702X2-cucumbe 1-quinoa(Y35-36) 2X2-tomato, cherry(W26,W28 2-arugula(C05,F10) 4X2-watermelon(X17,X19,X21 3-beans, dry(Y24-25,Y34)

rs, pickler(X09,X09,X11) 8-eggplant(C10,C10-13,S10- ,W28) 2-basil(F11-12) ,X23) 1-beets(Z25)2.01449275362319X2-squash, 13) 1X2-tomato, heirloom(W30,W 2-spicy mix(F13,S05) 6-potatoes(F04-09)

summer & z.(X13,X15,X15) 30) 0.640845070422535X2-beets( 2-Anise Hyssop 6"(V01-02)7-sweet potatoes(Y12-14,Y1 1X2-tomato, paste(W32,W32) X11,X07) 2-Hyssop 9"(V03,V05)

4,Z12-14,Z14) 2-beans, bush(Y15-16) 0.75-Marjoram, Wild 12" -47 Total Beds 38.5307205552154 Total Beds 33.7816901408451 Total Beds 39.8 Total Beds

2-Jun 9-Jun 16-Jun 23-Jun 30-Jun 7-Jul 14-Jul1.8-arugula(Y29,S03) 2-basil(E11,W11) 2-potatoes(Y21,Z21) 3-beans, dry(K01,K01-02) , summer & z.(N07,N07) 2-broccoli(C05-06) 6X2-squash, winter(N15,N17 7X2-squash, winter(N27,N291.17307692307692X2-brussel 2.5-sweet potatoes(Z07-11) 3-lettuces(B03-05) ∞ 3-corn, grain(K02-03-03) 2X2-cucumbers, pickler(N09 3-cabbage(C07-08-09) ,N19,N21,N23,N25) ,N29,N33,N35,C22,C24,C36)

s sprouts(S03,X25) 5-carrots(C26-30) 3-beans, dry(K04,K04-05) ,N11) 6-covercrop(J01-06) 2X2-watermelon(X17,X19) 2-broccoli(C04,S04)2-basil(B01-02) 2-arugula(E04,F10) 4-corn, grain(K05-06-07) 1X2-cucumbers, slicers(N13 2-broccoli(S05-06) 2-beets(Z27,X29) 2-corn, sweet(X31-32)5-okra(C32-36) 2-lettuces(F11,F14) ∞ 2X2-celeriac(K11,N01) ) 3-cabbage(S07-09) 3-corn, sweet(X30-32) 3-rutabaga(E28-30)3-beets(Y27-28,Z27) 2-spicy mix(X33-34) 2X2-squash, summer & z.(N0 2-lettuces(Z04-07) ∞ 2-lettuces(Y06,Z06) ∞ 2-broccoli(E31-32)1-spicy mix(Z28) 3-beans, bush(K08-10) 3,N05,N05) 2-spicy mix(Y04-05)

2-beets(X35-36) 1X2-cucumbers, pickler(N07 2-beets(Y26,Z04),N07) 1.5-carrots(Z05-06)

0.478260869565217X2-squash 1.25-beets(Z26,X01)30.25 Total Beds 4.5 Total Beds 21 Total Beds 29.9565217391304 Total Beds 18 Total Beds 23 Total Beds

21-Jul 28-Jul 4-Aug 11-Aug 18-Aug 25-Aug0.5-cilantro(X02-03) 1.17948717948718-cabbage(Y 6-lettuces(E13-18) ∞ 2-spicy mix(E21,W07) 2-spinach(E10,W10) ¤* 7-spinach(E11,E01-03,W01-0 7.5-covercrop(X27-28,X37,Y

01,Z01) 2-spicy mix(E19,E28) 2-chard(T12,J09) 3) ¤* 20,Y28-30,Z28)2-collards(Z01,E12) 2-carrots(Y02-03) 3-carrots(E06,E22,W06) 2-radishes(X04,X04) ¤ 2-lettuces(E04,W04) ¤∞

2-arugula(Y30,Z02) 2-turnips, salad(X03,Y07) #¤ 2-bok choy(X05-06) ¤ 2-turnips, salad(W05,W11) ¤2-carrots(Z03,Z27) 7-lettuces(Y08-10,Z07-10) ∞ 2-arugula(X07,E09) 1-radishes(X08,X08) ¤2X2-squash, summer & z.(C1 1-spinach(W09) ¤* 1-arugula(X09,X09) ¤

8,S18) 4.5-lettuces(X11-15) ¤∞2X2-cucumbers, pickler(S20

,S20)2-beets(E07,E20)

3.17948717948718 Total Beds 26 Total Beds 16 Total Beds 14 Total Beds 18 Total Beds 0 Total Beds

N22

N21

N20

N19

N18

N17

N16

N15

N14

N13

N12

N11

N10

N09

N08

N07

N06

N05

N04

N03

N02

C22

C21

C20

C19

C18

C17

C16

C15

C14

C13

C12

C11

C10

C09

C08

C07

C06

C05

C04

C03

C02

C01

S21

S20

S19

S18

S17

S16

S15

S14

S13

S12

S11

S10

S09

S08

S07

S06

S05

S04

S03

S02

S01 4/8(11/29) kale

7/5(9/12) broccoli

7/5(9/12) broccoli 5/22(6/30) arugula

7/17(9/23) broccoli 4/4(7/14) beets

#N/A

7/5(10/4) cabbage

7/5(10/4) cabbage

5/18(9/20) eggplant

5/18(9/20) eggplant

5/18(9/20) eggplant

5/18(9/20) eggplant

7/5(10/4) cabbage

4/8(11/29) kale

4/8(11/29) kale

4/8(11/29) kale

4/8(11/29) kale

7/17(9/23) broccoli 4/4(7/14) beets

7/5(10/4) cabbage

7/5(9/12) broccoli

7/5(9/12) broccoli 5/22(6/30) arugula

5/18(9/20) eggplant 5/18(9/20) eggplant

7/5(10/4) cabbage

7/5(10/4) cabbage 7/5(10/4) cabbage

5/18(9/20) eggplant

5/18(9/20) eggplant

5/18(9/20) eggplant

NCS

Week-by-week planting schedule (field and soil blocks)

Field Map (bed ID, crop, dates)

Page 49: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

PLANT AND SEED SELECTION• Sequential plantings for continual harvest• Hybrid vs. Heirloom: taste, productivity,

vigor, seed saving• Seed Suppliers (none of these carry GM)

–Johnny’s Selected Seeds (johnnyseeds.com)

–Fedco (fedcoseeds.com)–High Mowing Organic Seeds

(highmowingseeds.com)

Page 50: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

PLANT AND SEED SELECTION• Seed Storage/Life

– Cool, dry place (freezer)– Onions, parsley, parsnip – 1 year; 3 years for

most other crops– When in doubt, use new seed

• Inoculate seeds for improved plant health & yields:– Myco Seed Treatment (mychorrhizal fungi-covers

for veggies and legumes; Fedco $50)– Garden Combination Legume Inoculant $5

(Rhizobium bacteria - Johnny’s and Fedco)

Page 51: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

PLANTING TIMES• Plant crops considering frost dates• Frost dates in CT (2001-2010 data):

– Last frost date: 3rd week of May– First frost date: 1st week of October

• Plant crops at their most favorable time of the season:–Weather–Insect & disease cycles

• ex: radishes – insects • ex: cucumbers – disease

Page 52: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

PLANTING TIMES

● Highs for that day● Lows for that day▬ Rolling Average High

▬ Rolling Average Avg▬ Rolling Average Low

Page 53: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

PLANT SPACING AND METHODSDirect seeding vs. transplanting

• Benefits of Transplanting:–better care of seedlings–jump start over weeds–can handle rougher ground–no thinning–can transplant into mulch

Page 54: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

• Drawbacks of Transplanting :– possible transplanting shock/setback– some plants do not transplant (carrots, beets)– need supplies (potting soil, pots or soil block

maker)– have to plan ahead (schedule)

• Buy seedlings from reputable, disease free source

PLANT SPACING AND METHODSDirect seeding vs. transplanting

Page 55: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Seeding soil blocks

Seedlings coming up

Page 56: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

PLANT SPACING AND METHODSDirect Seeding

• Start with well prepared seed bed• Use correct seeding rate (ref: our chart)• Weed & water regularly, especially when

plants are small• Thin if necessary (beets, carrots particularly

important)

Page 57: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

PLANT SPACING AND METHODS• Map your garden area

–Grid your garden (ex: Bed A, Section 3)–Arrange crops so all have adequate sun –Rotate plant families to minimize disease &

pest problems

N22

N21

N20

N19

N18

N17

N16

N15

N14

N13

N12

N11

N10

N09

N08

N07

N06

N05

N04

N03

N02

C22

C21

C20

C19

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C15

C14

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C12

C11

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C09

C08

C07

C06

C05

C04

C03

C02

C01

S21

S20

S19

S18

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S01

7/5(9/12) broccoli

7/5(9/12) broccoli 5/22(6/30) arugula

7/17(9/23) broccoli 4/4(7/14) beets

#N/A

7/5(10/4) cabbage

7/5(10/4) cabbage

7/5(10/4) cabbage

4/8(11/29) kale

7/17(9/23) broccoli 4/4(7/14) beets

7/5(10/4) cabbage

7/5(9/12) broccoli

7/5(9/12) broccoli 5/22(6/30) arugula

7/5(10/4) cabbage

7/5(10/4) cabbage 7/5(10/4) cabbage

NCS

Page 58: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

PLANT AND SEED SELECTIONPLANT SPACING AND METHODS

crop VarietiesSeed

Company

Direct seeded/

Transplant

Weeks to

Trans-plant

arugula Arugula Johnny's Directbasil Genovese Johnny's Directbeans, bush Provider, Royal Burgundy Johnny's Directbeets Red Ace, Early Wonder Tall TopJohnny's Directbok choy Mei Qing Choi Johnny's Directbroccoli Diplomat, Bay Meadows Johnny's Transplant 3 to 5brussels sprouts Diablo Johnny's Transplant 5cabbage Tendersweet, Storage#4, Ruby PerfectionJohnny's Transplant 3 to 5

Page 59: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

PLANT AND SEED SELECTIONPLANT SPACING AND METHODS

crop

In-row spacing

(in.)

Between rows

spacing (in.)

Frost Hardiness

(w / covers)

Thinning distance

(in.)

Typical Yield per ft2 Units

arugula 0 9 ~10F don't thin 0.09 lbs ybasil 0 11 will die don't thin 0.4 bunch ybeans, bush 2 22 will die don't thin 0.9 pt bskt ybeets 1 11 ~25F 3 0.2 bunch ybok choy 1 11 ~25F don't thin 0.3 lbs. ybroccoli 18 22 ~25F n/a 0.2 lbs nbrussels sprouts 18 22 ~25F n/a 0.10 lbs ncabbage 18 22 ~25F n/a 1.0 lbs n

Page 60: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

PLANT AND SEED SELECTIONPLANT SPACING AND METHODS

croparugula 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2basil 2 2 2beans, bush 2 2 2 2 2beets 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1bok choy 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 1 1 1broccoli 1 1 2 2 2 2brussels sprouts 2 2cabbage 1 1 2 2 2 2

Plant Date

Mar. April May June July Aug. Sept. Oct. Nov.

Page 61: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

PLANT AND SEED SELECTIONPLANT SPACING AND METHODS

cropSuccession plantings? Notes Plant Family

arugula y Brassicabasil y Labiatae (mint)beans, bush y Legumebeets y thinning is very important for good root size Chenepodiabok choy y Brassicabroccoli n Brassicabrussels sprouts n Brassicacabbage n Brassica

Page 62: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

PLANT AND SEED SELECTIONPLANT SPACING AND METHODS

Questions?

Page 63: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

WATER

• How much do plants need

• When do plants need it

• How to calculate watering times

Page 64: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

WATER• Our rule of thumb: 1 inch water/week (rain +

irrigation)• Soil observation is important• Lack of water or too much water both cause

serious problems• Rain gage strongly recommended (Johnny’s

or Fedco)– proper placement is important– What a weather station in Windham receives can be

much different

Page 65: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

• Keep track of rain fall and watering amounts• Critical watering times:

–At seeding and transplanting–During germination and until plants

develop a mature root system (2+ weeks)–Other growth stages: plant dependent (ex:

potatoes, beets, cucumbers)

WATER

Page 66: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

• Straw or hay mulch prevents soil from drying• Irrigation:

–overhead (watering can, wand or sprinklers)–drip tape–buried soaker hose

• Watering should be done with a gentle shower!

• Water in early morning – watering during hot-sunny part of day wastes water and crusts soil

WATER

Page 67: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

• Watering in the evening can cause problems with leaves being wet overnight

• Keep water in the root region. Wet leaves for long periods can lead to disease

• Optimize frequency and amount of watering– Not too much, not too little, not too often…

• Know the flow rate of your watering device: fill a 5gal bucket and time how long it takes.

• Record how much water you’re putting down each time you water.

WATER

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WATERExample of Watering Records• Keep track of rain • crop• bed

S S M T W H F S S M T W H F S S M T W H F S S M T W H F S

Crop Bed(s)

DFO 29 30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 #

Rain .35 .5carrots E12 O Pbeets X01 O Ptomatoes GH F

July

• Plant date• When it needs to be watered• Target 1” per week

Page 69: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Watering• ¼ inch of “rain” at one time is reasonable

– More than this can be too much– less than this is watering too often

• Using a Watering Can (calculations)– For a ¼ inch equivalent of rain:

• Water Required (gallons) = Area (ft2) X (0.16)– Example

• Area: 10 ft2

• Water Required = 10 X (0.16) ≈ 1½ gallons

WATER

Page 70: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Watering - Using a Wand• For a ¼ inch equivalent of rain:

– Time Required (minutes) = Area (ft2) X 0.16 / wand flowrate (gpm)– Need to calculate wand flowrate

• Fill a 5 gallon bucket with wand, calculate gallons per minute (gpm)

• Example– Area: 100 ft2

– Wand Flowrate: 6 gpm– Time required = 100 X 0.16 / 6 ≈ 2½ minutes– Note: using a wand on less than 100 ft2 is likely to much water in

to short a time. We normally do a minimum of 300 ft2 when using a wand at 6 gpm flowrate

WATER

Page 71: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Questions?

WATER

Page 72: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

WEEDS

• Weed regularly• Don’t let the weeds go to seed• Do not use herbicides• Pull weeds out by the root or cut

below the soil line

Page 73: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

WEEDSMULCH• Helps control weeds• Straw is better than hay because it won’t drop

seeds• Hay is better than bare soil• For heat loving crops (tomatoes, peppers,

eggplant, cucumbers, squash), wait until soil has warmed up (70F, early summer) before mulching

Page 74: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

WEEDSHOEING• We use wheel hoe, hand hoes, standup

hoes, grub hoes, cobra weeder• Works well when weeds are small, and

with proper technique (practice!)• Helps soil aeration especially if you have

crusty soil or soil compaction• Too much leads to oxidation of organic

matter

Page 75: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

WEEDSHAND WEEDING• Takes longer than hoeing but can be

more effective and longer-lasting• When we direct seed a bed, we hoe it

once or twice when the plants first come up and weeds are small, and any weeding after that is by hand

Page 76: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

WEEDS• Keeping the garden weed free pays back

in future – weeds will gradually become less of a problem

• Certain periods are more challenging / critical than others

• Plan to be on top of weeds during growth spurt in early summer, and when plants are small

Page 77: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

WEEDS

Questions?

Page 78: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Beneficials• Pollinators - needed by many plants• Control pests by eating or parasitizing them• Need water and source of nectar

Pests• Pests are outnumbered by beneficials and

other insects

INSECTS

Page 79: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

BENEFICIALS• Plant herbs and flowers to attract them (dill,

carrot, queen anne’s lace, cosmos, mustard family, cilantro, basil, clovers, etc.)

• Let them go to flower!• Some beneficials we see: different kinds of

wasps, tachinid flies, praying mantids, lady beetles, assassin bugs, spiders, lace wings, ground beetles, etc.

INSECTS

Page 80: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

INSECTS

Common PestsColorado Potato Beetle Flea Beetles

Tomato Horn Worm Cross Striped Cabbage Worm

Imported Cabbage Butterfly

Page 81: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Tomato Horn Worms with and without parasitic wasps

Beneficial Insects on dill: Honeybee and wasps

Page 82: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

PESTS:• Flea beetles on brassicas

– cause problems in spring;– can be significant problem on eggplant– use row covers– hand pick when wet/cool (tedious)

• Colorado Potato Beetle:– regular inspection and hand picking– recognize and kill adults and larvae

INSECTS

Page 83: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

PESTS:• Tomato horn worm

– regular inspection– hand pick except for parasitized ones

• Cucumber beetles, squash bugs, bean beetles– regular inspection, hand pick, destroy eggs

• Root Maggots– Radishes, turnips– Worse in spring – shift planting to fall

INSECTS

Page 84: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

PESTS:• Squash borer

–find location and hand remove• Imported cabbage worm, cross striped

cabbage moth–use row covers;–hand remove;–soak broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower

heads in salt water after harvest

INSECTS

Page 85: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Pests• Leaf miners:

–chard, beet leaves, less on spinach;–squish larva borrowed in leaves

• Cutworms:–active in spring until June;–dig around plant with damage and kill

the worm

INSECTS

Page 86: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Pests• Aphids:

–may signal too much N–hand remove and/or wash off at harvest–Lady Beetles will eat them

• Slugs– like moisture - maximize ventilation–hand remove

INSECTS

Page 87: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

General Recommendations• Healthy plants are less susceptible to pests

– make soil health a priority• Do not use pesticides (harmful to non-

target insects)• Identify pests and their different stages

(eggs, larvae, adult)• Make sure you’re not killing beneficials or

other insects

INSECTS

Page 88: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

General Recommendations (cont.)• Schedule planting to avoid pest cycles• Mulch may harbor pests like slugs but

overall we believe benefits outweigh drawbacks

• Inspect plants regularly and keep garden tidy

INSECTS

Page 89: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Questions?

INSECTS

Page 90: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

COMMON DISEASESGeneral Recommendations: • Crop rotation, soil fertility / health, and

basic field hygiene minimize disease• Avoid disease prone times when

designing planting schedule• Do not use fungicides or anything that

harms soil life• Purchase plants from trusted sources

Page 91: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

COMMON DISEASES

• Do not touch plants leaves when wet• Do not touch healthy plants after

diseased ones.• Remove diseased plant parts from the

garden.• Avoid fungal diseases with good air

circulation.• Look into disease resistant varieties

when purchasing seed.

Page 92: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

COMMON DISEASESDiseases We Experienced:• Cercospora:

–beets, chard, carrot leaves–prolonged high humidity and heat are

problematic (August)• Early blight & septoria on tomatoes:

–avoid wet leaves–mulch–trellis to encourage good air circulation

Page 93: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

COMMON DISEASESLate Blight on tomatoes and potatoes:• Very serious - rapidly kills plants• Know where your plants come from• Avoid wet leaves, esp. overnight and

during cooler periods (70F and lower)• Trellis tomatoes for good air circulation• Do not touch plants when wet/dewy• Remove diseased plants from field

Page 94: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

COMMON DISEASES

• Mildews on cucumbers and squashes for plantings July and later. Plant early (June)

• Mildews on Basil: plant no later than 1st week of June

• Fungal diseases on lettuces: plant early and use disease resistant varieties

Page 95: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Septoria / Early Blight on tomato leaves

Cercospora on beet leaves

Trellised tomato plants: support, air circulation, ease of harvest

Page 96: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

COMMON DISEASES

Questions?

Page 97: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

THE HARVEST• Some vegetables need to be harvested

promptly and regularly (ex: broccoli, tomatoes, cucumbers, okra).

• Others are more flexible (ex: chard, kale, carrots, beets).

• Lettuces, spinach, greens such as arugula, mustard, mizuna, bok choi and other brassicas will bolt in the spring if not harvested on time

Page 98: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

THE HARVEST

• Some vegetables produce all season (kale, chard), others produce heaviest in a smaller window of time (cucumbers, broccoli, etc.)

• Some veggies store for months under the right conditions (ex: root veggies), others only days.

• Be prepared to do something with your vegetables (plan your harvest)

Page 99: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

THE HARVEST

• Prepare meals around what’s in the garden (in-season cooking)

• Use long-term storage techniques–freezing (blanching or not)–canning (hot water bath vs. pressure

canning)–dehydrating (dehydrator or oven)–fermentation

Page 100: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Short and Long Term

StorageInformation

Location Storage Method Vegetable/FruitIdeal Temp.

(F)^ Humidity*^Ethylene Producer

Sensitive to Ethylene

Storage Duration

fridge in plastic bag, loosely closed arugulacounter roots in water (NOT IN FRIDGE) basil 52-59 M: 90-95% No Yesfridge in plastic bag, loosely closed beans 40-45 M: 95% 7-10 daysfridge in plastic bag, loosely closed beets 32-40,32 VM: 98-100% No Yes 4-5 monthsfridge in plastic bag, loosely closed bok choy 32-35 M: 90-95% No Yesfridge in plastic bag, partly open broccoli 32-40,32 D: 80%,VM: 95-100% No Yes 10-14 daysfridge in plastic bag, loosely closed brussels sprouts 32 M: 95% 3-5 weeksfridge in plastic bag, loosely closed cabbage 32-40, 32 MM: 80-90%, 98-100% 5-6 monthsfridge in plastic bag, loosely closed carrots 32 VM: 95-100% 2 weeks w/ tops, 7-9 months w/ofridge in plastic bag, loosely closed celeriac 32 VM: 95-100% 6-8 monthsfridge in plastic bag, loosely closed chard 32 VM: 95-100% 10-14 daysfridge in plastic bag, loosely closed cilantrofridge in plastic bag, loosely closed corn, sweet 40-45, 32 MM: 80-95%, 95-98% 5-8 daysfridge in plastic bag, loosely closed cucumbers 45-55 M: 90-95% Very Low Yes 10-14 dayscounter store in jar, stems in water, loosely covered dillfridge in plastic bag, loosely closed eggplant 32-40, 46-54 MM: 80-90%, 90-95% No Yes 1 weekpantry out of sun garlic 32 VD: 65-70% No No 6-7 monthsfridge in plastic bag, loosely closed kale 32-40 MM: 80-90%, ,VM: 95-100% 2-3 weeksfridge drain water from bag periodically lettuces 32-40 MM: 80-90%fridge in plastic bag, loosely closed okra 45-50 M: 90-95% Very Low Yes 7-10 dayspantry out of sun onions 36-40, 32-35 VD: 65-70% No No 8 monthsfridge store in jar, stems in water, loosely covered parsley 32 VM: 95-100% 2-3 monthsfridge in plastic bag, closed peas, snap 32 VM: 95-100% 1-2 weeksfridge in plastic bag, loosely closed peppers 45-50 MM: 80-90% 2-3 weekspantry in paper bag (need darkness) potatoes 55-60, 45-50 M: 90-95% No Yes 4-6 monthsfridge in plastic bag, loosely closed radishes 32 M: 95% 2-4 monthsfridge loosely covered (eat within 1 day) raspberries 31-32 M: 90-95% Very Low No 2-3 daysfridge in plastic bag, loosely closed rutabaga 32 M: 90-95%,98-100% 4-6 monthsfridge drain water from bag periodically spinach 32 VM: 95-100% 10-14 daysfridge in plastic bag, loosely closed squash, summer & z. 40-50 VM: 95% 1-2 weekspantry out of sun squash, winter 55, 50 VD: 50-70% 1-6 monthsfridge lightly covered strawberries 32-36 M: 90-95% Very Low No 3-7 dayspantry out of sun sweet potatoes 55-60 MM: 80-90% No Yes 4-7 monthscounter tomatoes 45-50, 55-70 M: 90-95% 4-7 daysfridge in plastic bag, loosely closed turnips, salad 32 M: 90-95% 2-4 monthsfridge in plastic bag, loosely closed w. turnips 32 M: 90-95% 2-4 monthsfridge watermelon 55-70 M:85-95% No Yes, Very

* Very Dry, Dry, Moderately Moist, Moist, Very Moist

Primary sources for the above information are:

The Gardener's A-Z Guide to Growing Organic Food, Tanya DencklaPutting Food By, Janet Greene, Ruth Hertzberg, Beatrice Vaughanwww.engineeringtoolbox.com/fruits-vegetables-storage-conditions-d_710.html

Short Term Storage

* For long-term storage there are other options, such as canning and freezing. Feel free to ask us.

Long Term Storage

When there are multiple entries, different sources had different recommendations.

Page 101: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

THE HARVEST

Questions?

Page 102: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

PUTTING THE GARDEN TO REST

• Remove plant debris• Protect the soil with mulch or cover cropMULCH• Cover the ground with thick layer of

straw or hay mulch• Keeps soil from eroding and oxidizing• Helps earthworm / biological activity

Page 103: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

PUTTING THE GARDEN TO REST

• COVER CROP:–Plant after harvest, by September–Rye, vetch, clover, pea combination does

well (Johnny’s fall green manure)–Many types available for different purposes

Page 104: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

PUTTING THE GARDEN TO REST

• COVER CROP BENEFITS:–Prevents erosion–Sustains soil biology over winter and early

spring–Suppresses weeds–Increases soil organic matter

Page 105: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

PUTTING THE GARDEN TO REST

• COVER CROP DRAWBACKS:–Needs to be managed

• Plant early• Incorporate on time, giving enough time

to break down• Or remove by hand before planting

other crops–May encourage certain pests

Page 106: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

PUTTING THE GARDEN TO REST

Questions?

Page 107: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Tools• Soil Testing Probe • Shovel / Spade: for initial work area preparation • Tools for seed bed preparation: wheel cultivator (Lehman’s ~$100); three tooth

cultivator (Johnny’s $44), regular rake, leaf rakes• Cobrahead weeder for soil preparation and weeding (Johnny’s $25)• Hoes for weeds and soil aeration: wheel hoe (Lehman’s ~$100); stand up hoe

(Colinear Hoe Johnny’s $35)and hand hoes (Johnny’s $16).• Hose & Watering wands / waterning cans / sprinklers (Wonder Waterer, Johnny’s

$40)• Rain Gage (Johnny’s $5)• Earthway Seeder - Johnny’s ~$109• Potting Soil – McEnroe / Johnny’s/Willimantic Food Co-op• Soil Block Maker 2” & 4” – Johnny’s ($30 & $99); Willimantic Food Co-op• Tray for mixing potting soil• 5 gallon bucket• Wheel barrow

Page 108: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

USEFUL RESOURCES• Wheeler, Philip and Ward, Ronald: The Non-Toxic Farming Handbook

– Good, in-depth resource for soil fertility (including soil testing), from the people who established Crop Services International.

• Coleman, Eliot: The New Organic Grower– Covers the most important aspects of growing; geared to small farmers.

• Denckla, Tanya: The Gardener’s A-Z Guide to Growing– Provides crop-specific as well as general information for gardeners.

• Rodale: Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening– Great overall reference.

• Rodale’s Successful Gardening: Controlling Pests and Disease– Basic information and good pictures on pests & diseases.

• Whitney and Cranshaw: Garden Insects of North America– Excellent, comprehensive resource for insect identification. This is the book we

go to when we have insect problems.

Page 109: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

USEFUL RESOURCES• Penn State College of Agricultural Sciences: Identifying Diseases of

Vegetables– Has good pictures for easy identification of common diseases.

• Greene, Janet; Hetrzberg, Ruth; & Vaughan Beatrice: Putting Food By– Excellent resource covering most practical methods of food storage and

preservation; includes recipes.• Katz, Sandor: Wild Fermentation

– Great resource on why and how of fermentation, with many practical recipes.• The Natural Farmer, published by NOFA 4 times per year

– Geared for organic farmers of our size or larger; good publication to get you acquainted with various aspects of farming, from growing practices to food politics.

• The Natural Farmer - Special Supplement on Food Preservation, Fall 2013– This issue gives an excellent overview of different methods of food preservation

Page 110: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

USEFUL RESOURCES• The Maine Organic Farmer & Gardener

– Another periodical, form Maine, similar to The Natural Farmer in what it covers.

Page 111: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

BACKUP

Page 112: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Sun Exposure

Sun position throughout the day

0102030405060708090

090180270360

Altit

ude

(deg

)

21-Jun

21-Apr / 21-Aug

21-Feb / 21-Oct

21-Dec

Azimuth (deg)

10am

8am

noon

6am

Page 113: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

ROW COVERS

• Offer frost protection• Insect protection• Extra heat/faster growth in spring, fall &

winter• Reduce light transmitted to plants• Plants in the ground from October to May

should be protected against frost• Available at Johnny’s, Fedco, Nolt’s, and

other suppliers

Page 114: GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

ROW COVERS

• Depending on type, can be used directly on plants or with hoop tunnels

• Need to be vented to prevent overheating• Difficult in windy conditions• For some crops, row covers must be removed

at flowering to allow insect pollination (ex: cucumbers, squashes, melons)