grapevine ~ october 2017 issue fileirene pardini bob perry sue perry donna pilletere jenny schutz...

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LUNATA - LUCCA tel. 0583.429333 - fax 0583.429158

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For food lovers and professionals alike, daily cooking classes: fresh pasta and sauces, fish and seafood, Tuscan specialties, risotto, pizza, focaccia, Hands-on classes in a relaxed, fun atmosphere. Participants cook the dishes themselves, then enjoy these with plenty of wine and home-made liqueurs. Highly recommended by Tripadvisor!

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Special fish or meat menus prepared by Chef Paolo Monti for you. [email protected]

Typical Tuscan trattoria with local specialties: zuppa di farro, tordelli lucchesi, wild boar pasta, porcini, asparagus, artichokes. Specialties from the charcoal grill: Bistecca alla Fiorentina (T-Bone steak), lamb, mixed grill. Specialized in seafood dishes, with fresh fish every day!

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Crema di Zucca alla Mayflower

Pilgrim’s pumpkin ravioli

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Spiced traditional Pumpkin Pie with cranberries and a pumpkin Tiramisu

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(by request, vegetarian alternative: rice with vegetables)

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Alla Cantina di Carignano with Chef Paolo Monti

ContentsDirettore ResponsabileGiuseppe Brandani

EditorNorma Jean Bishop

ContributorsHelen AskhamNorma Jean BishopChiara CalabreseJudith EdwardsTom EnglandChiara IsolaRita KobrakSimone LippiIrene PardiniBob PerrySue PerryDonna PilletereJenny SchutzCarol TomlinsonVannucci & AssociatiValencia Wolf

Marketing & DistributionClaudia CasoliDiana Gatti

Adam WalkerSilvano Simi

Cover: View of my mother's origins (Porcari - Lucca)by Diletta Barbieri

Tuscany’s Grapevine Magazine di Grapevine Editions

Registered office: Via Guinigi, 22 - Lucca 55100. Visit us at Via dell’Angelo Custode 3A.Mobile +39 333 8617962 - [email protected] - www.luccagrapevine.com P. IVA 02416230460 - C.F. BSHNMJ48C65Z404D. Iscrizione CCIAA - LU 223932. Registrazione Tribunale di Lucca n° 4, 23 Feb. 2016.

Printed by Luminarprint srl - Calcinaia (PI).

Articles/photos for consideration may be submitted to the Editor. Advertising in editorial form may also be submitted for inclusion. Pages enclosed with a frame contain paid submissions.

© Tuscany’s Grapevine Magazine © What’s On In & Around

The listings published in Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith. However, to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information before setting off. Signed articles do not necessarily reflect the views of the Editor or of the Direttore Responsabile.

3Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine October 2017

Art/Music/Beauty

Traditions & History

Excursions

Food & Drink

Home & Garden

Practical

Events of the Month

Where to Stay in Lucca

Bilingual Crossword

Properties for Sale

Professionals

Lucca Comics and Games 10

In Vino Veritas 8

Chestnuts at Caprese Michelangelo 5 Discovering Salento 6

From Olives to Golden Oil 20Thyme, time after time after time 22

Fiscal Advantages 24

Amii Stewart at Lucca Jazz Donna 19

Florence vs Lucca: La Gran Botta, 1430 4

Our Lawns at Season’s End 23

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Markets, Museums & Monuments, VenuesWhat's On: Music, Art & ExhibitionsTraditions, Sagras, Sports, Children, Cinema, Conferences

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Pietre Rotolanti

In a cultural event that will long be remembered, the Stones concert on September 23 received mostly positive votes. My daughter said to me, Come out tonight, the town is filled with people who look like you! It was fun to roll back the clock 51 years, since I first saw them on stage.

In the words of the Lucca Tourist Bureau:

“Please let me introduce myself.” Thus begins Sympathy for the Devil, and in this way the Rolling Stones are presented to 56,000 spectators arriving from all over the world to attend the concert on the grassy lawn outside the walls. The band arrives on stage with only a few minutes delay, the adrenalin rises, and the legs begin to move by themselves. Then comes It's only rock ’n’ roll and the hands seem to touch the sky, more than 100,000 arms, more than 55,000 hearts. And then with the good old blues of Tumbling dice, Just your fool, and Ride 'em on down, the quintessence of rock didn't ignore their roots.

“These are the four calzoni (sic) that you voted for; sorry there is no Puccini” said Jagger, before attacking with Let's spend the night together, a song in fact chosen by the public. At 55 years since their first concert (London's Marquee Club in 1962), the playlist is for 20 pieces. Mick Jagger devours the stage as only he knows how, Keith Richards stirs up storms of approval every time he strokes his guitar, Charlie Watts and Ron Wood are immortals.

Now Miss You arrives. Jagger enjoys himself with the public, telling about a man who walked at night in Central Park and was considered crazy, and then the Satanic atmosphere of Paint it black. Keith takes possession of the stage with Happy and Slippin away. Jagger jokes, speaking to the public in Italian with his strange British accent. From Midnight rambler to Street fighting man, they arrive at an overwhelming Start me up. And the public explodes. Brown Sugar and the universal Satisfaction close the concert, before the two announced encores. Gimme Shelter (the song that according to Richards best represents the band) and the iconic Jumpin' Jack flash close the festival.

In 1964, Mick Jagger said," I give the Rolling Stones at most another two years.”

... Fortunately it didn't end up that way.

– Alice Guidi, Itinera Srl Lucca (tr. Grapevine)

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2017October

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o f f se t & d ig i t a l p r i n t i ng

Michelozzi, and Ghiberti) project to turn the istory has long been written waters of the Serchio River against Lucca, from the perspective of specifically at Porta dei Borghi, he devises a “great events” and “great HH plan to change the course of the water. men”, men such as Paolo Instead of battering down the city gate and Guinigi, who ruled Lucca in the period, flooding the town, the water flows around roughly speaking, from 1400 to 1430. the town, flooding the Florentine camp Lucca's walls protected a rich and noble between Lunata and Antraccoli, east of mercantile and banking class, already town. The Lucchese victory was a gran well-known for their success in the silk botta (big whack) against the powerful trade, especially. Outside the walls lay Florentines, one that remains in memory. the contada, the extended community

Floods are not new to this part of which embraced farms, pastures, and Tuscany, and in fact even in recent days I mountain lands, all providing valuable have heard locals express their fear of the resources to the urban core.Serchio overflowing its banks. When we begin contemplating the

This book, published by Maria Pacini life of the ordinary populace, those with-Fazzi Editore last year, opens a window on out great power and influence, who are the past, and is filled with local idioms and battered by historical forces such as details of political and domestic life. The plague, famine, droughts, and floods, narrative technique of dividing the story speculation must take the place of history into sessions by the fireside, set in 1741, books. Yet this speculation may teach us when nephew Sante Landucci listens to as much as does History written with a cap-his grandfather (of the same name) telling ital H. Certainly it gives fodder for stories the deeds of their illustrious ancestor and fantasy, as well as philosophical con-Andrea di Landuccio, is a well-known siderations.technique; still the image is evocative. The In 1430 Lucca was attacked by the author is himself a native of Sant'Andrea Florentines, purportedly in the name of

in Campo, adding another layer to the historical tapestry. liberty. Paolo Guinigi, considered a despot by the Florentines, tried to create alliances to protect Lucca's territory from the Those who prefer their history straight, not mixed with invaders. The walls might have protected the city itself, but the fictional imagination, might not want to make the effort to read people and territory outside the walls were much more vulnerable. these 300+ pages, especially as the book is written in Italian. There

are plenty of history books about Lucca and Tuscany, even in In this historical novel, Oriano Landucci, current president of English, and much to read on internet. Still, this book could be the Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca, combines historical good company during the winter evenings ahead, ten chapters to fact with fictional imagination to project us into the dramatic work through calmly, taking you 600 years into the past.situation. The narrative begins with the Ozzeri River flooding the

farmland of Sant'Angelo in Campo, to the west of Lucca. Andrea As the author wisely reminds us on the first page, L'unico di Landuccio, a young farmboy, closely observes the water as it modo per far vivere la memoria è tramandarla (the only way to swirls through a canal. In this way, he is able to predict the flood keep memory alive is to pass it on).and save the contadini from disaster. – by Norma Jean Bishop

Years later, Andrea joins Paolo Guinigi's army as they prepare to face the Florentine attackers. When Andrea learns of the Florentine The book's cover image is an illustration from the Chronicles of architect Filippo Brunelleschi's (together with Donatello, Giovanni Sercambi (1368-1424)

Lucca versus Florence 1430


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ntil mid or late October in Monte Bianco central Italy, the weather can still hold onto some of Ingredients: Uthe glory of the height of 800g chestnuts (marroni)

summer. But now the farmers are done 100g sugarwith their harvests and everywhere 500ml milkthere are festivals. From the Chestnut 35g cocoa powderand Truffle festivals (Citta di Castello a little rumand Caprese) to the Chocolate fair at fresh cream (needsPerugia, and from Palio festivals (San to be whipped) Sepolcro) to Antique fairs (Arezzo), there is something for everyone. November sees the olive harvest and the wonderful olio nuovo tastings. Don't miss a visit to Ravagni to see the new virgin oil coming freshly out of the traditional stone press.

The Festa della castagna at Caprese Michelangelo takes place 14-15 October and 21-22 October. Michelangelo's birthplace, Caprese Michelangelo, is only two and half hours away from Lucca in the province of Arezzo, nestled in the Val Tiberina, 700 meters above sea level. This famous artist was born in the castle on March 6, 1475. His father was podestà and his house (photo

1. Put a slit in the marroni and put them in a pan with water to above) is now a museum. You can also see the small stone church cover them. Cook on high heat 35 minutes. Peel when hot.where he was baptised.2. Put the chestnuts, sugar and milk in a pan and cook for an hour Caprese Michelangelo is a picturesque village of 1400 until the milk is absorbed. Add rum and cocoa powder.inhabitants, a number which doubles in October with its famous 3. Place spoonfuls of the mix in small bowls, cover with whipped Chestnut festival. Chestnuts and chestnut flour have always been cream, and decorate with whole chestnuts, or you can put the staple foods of this area, and fed the locals in the Middle Ages in chestnut mix in a meringue nest with cream on top.the place of grain. During the festival, you can discover the

stunning area and taste the delicious local marroni chestnuts. The – by Rita Kobrakfestival offers many chestnut products, such as chestnut flour and

sweet dishes, together with varieties of local foods, plus artisans Where to stay: Villa Radicata is a beautifully restored private displaying and selling their crafts. The highlight is to try one of the

villa 5 minutes drive from Caprese Michelangelo. Sleeps 10. chestnut based menus at the various food stalls. The marrone is a 500 euros for the whole villa for the weekend. large type of chestnut, typical here and known for its sweet

Tel. 349 5018679, www.holiday-villa-in-tuscany.com flavour. It dates back to Roman times and was cultivated by the Where to eat: La Buca di Michelangelo. An amazing set meal Benedictine monks in the Middle Ages. One of my favourite

on a Sunday, 6 courses with wine for 30 euro. Tel. 0575 793921dishes is the monte bianco dessert made with meringue, cream, or il boschetto 0575 793731and chestnuts.

Chestnuts at Caprese Michelangelo



uring the first two weeks of August we went to Salento, the lower half of Puglia . It's a very beautiful place for clear sea, majestic DDlandscapes, and delicious dishes.

We visited Otranto, a typical Another city to visit is Ostuni, Pugliese village with a castle on the

known as the White Town, once sea (especially impressive at night). entirely with white lime. On The village tour by three-wheel taxi

the coast near Ostuni is Lulla Bay (4, 5, can be a special experience, but it's 6), a sand beach with a hippie bar. The not very cheap.sandwich that we ate for lunch This part of the Adriatic coast is (octopus, burrata cheese, lettuce) and characterized by cliffs that drop the Mojito for happy hour were very down to the sea. We suggest visiting good. We enjoyed spending a day in Porto Badisco and Marina Serra this unique place.(photo 1), two little bays where

For three years now, we have lovers of snorkeling will go crazy, decided to split our holiday in two: the and Acquaviva (2), a little bay where first part more adventurous, and the fresh water comes out of the rock.second part more relaxing. So in the The southernmost tip of

second week we went to the Ionic Puglia is very close. This is coast at Marina di Mancaversa, Punta Ristola, and not the near Gallipoli. Along this coast the lighthouse of Santa Maria di majority of beaches are sandy, Leuca. While Santa Maria di with an azure, clear sea. We Leuca is on most maps, Punta enjoyed happy hour at Punta alla Ristola isn’t even indicated by Suina (7), where the sunset was road-signs. very beautiful. The next day we For sea lovers, a boat spent relaxing at Solatio, a beach excursion to visit the grottos (3) resort with all the comforts, is not to be missed. The cost is 40 including showers and beach euros for four hours. You will lounge chairs. A very good and have the opportunity to visit

unique and otherwise unreach- inexpensive restaurant is A Casa tu able places. Martinu, where we ate pasta with

cime di rapa, turnip tops (in Pugliese dialect, cim de rep).

Italy’s heel, at

painted

Discovering Salento

Punta Ristola

Gallipoli

Otranto

Ostuni

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We spent the last two days of our holiday in Lecce, called The Florence of the South. The main square, Piazza Sant'Oronzo, is very beautiful. Sites to be seen are the Roman theatre, the old headquarters of Venice's doges (called the Sedile), and a deconsecrated church with a lion sculpture above the door. Lecce has many churches. While visiting Sant’Irene Church (8) Irene discovered that Sant'Irene is the patron saint of this city. She’s very proud of this.

While touring Lecce, we discovered that another Roman theatre is hidden between the houses, where a lot of cats live (9).

The other important square in Lecce is the Cathedral Square (10), also best seen at night.

We ate dinner at Vico dei Sotterranei. This refined restaurant is hidden in the town alleys. Here you can taste Lecce's true culinary tradition, blended with modern cuisine. Spectacular!

In Lecce there is an historic coffee bar in the heart of the town, named Bar Avio. The Quarta coffee (from the name of the person who created it) is served in all its

variants. You can try it cold and “on ice” or perhaps in the most classic way, hot in a cup. You can taste it as you like it, but please do try it. Don't miss this place!

At the end of our holiday, when we were at Lecce airport waiting for the plane, we looked at a map of Puglia and drew our conclusions: First, we realized only then how big this region is. Second, Italy is filled with beautiful places to discover and traditions to be protected. We often search for beauty as far as possible, and we don't notice that beauty is all around us. We have a wonderful country.

– by Irene Pardini and Chiara Isola

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storm could blow down the vines and damage the crop, the The vintner closely watches over the vines all year, picking, usually done in mid-September, was anticipated by about anxiously hoping that his grapes receive the ideal ten days.TTmixture of sun and rain at the right moments in their So, the first Saturday of September a dozen friends arrived in

growth cycle. The harvest is usually a time to celebrate with food, the Compitese hills ready to learn how to pick grapes and make friends, and of course wine. Like all farmers, though, vintners are wine. In the morning the sky was overcast and we opted for a at the mercy of Mother Nature's whimsical moods. leisurely lunch, hoping to have more sunshine in the afternoon.

This year was particularly trying, since the long dry summer But the winemaker said no, he didn't want to pick wet grapes and was un-tempered by rain. When the rains finally did come in late have an adulterated crop. Besides, the sun was not showing its August, they were the opposite of gentle, and the grapes were smiling face. The neighbor downhill, on the other hand, decided to slapped around by the wind. To avoid the possibility that a cruel pick grapes between raindrops, with the help of his grandchildren.

he vendemmia is more than a grape harvest. It is a ritual.


In Vino Veritas

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Silvano chose to wait another week. The harvest was smaller than previous years, but the juice of the grapes just as sweet!

After the grapes are crushed and the pulp removed, the juice goes into a large aluminum container, where it must “cook” for several months. The vintner helps this process along by stirring the mosto every twelve hours. When it is ready, the wine is transferred to demijohns (54 liters), and from demijohns to bottles. Then the Vino Novello is ready to be enjoyed as young wine, or to be stored for aging. Organic wine like Silvano's, made without additives, can keep for several years. The taste depends on the grapes, which in this case are original to the Compitese region, and are a mixture of Sangiovese and other varieties.

Delicious, healthy, and that's the truth!

Here are a few of the upcoming wine festivals in our region:

October Pisa Food and Wine Festival. Siena Wine Fair in Piazza del Campo,

NovemberMareDiVino, Livorno's enological event. Novello in festa a Cenaia (Pisa), the tradizional Cantina delle Colline Pisane event.Festa del vino novello at Montespertoli (Firenze).Festa del vino novello 4-5, 11-12 at Montecarlo (Lucca).

See the What's On section (page 18) for more information.

– by Norma Jean Bishop

– photos 1-2-6-7-8by Sue and Bob Perry

– photos 3-4-5by Tom England


Lucca

Comics & Games 2017

Lucca has been flooded by Comics fans annually for 51 years. This year, paraphrasing David Bowie (We can be heroes

… and not just for one day!), the theme is HEROES. Tickets have

been on sale since early summer, with pre-sale prices kept the same as last year, when 80,000 tickets were sold for each day of the festival.

Lucca, a town of tradition, history, and architecture, keeps up with trends, attracting admirers from around the world. The town will be filled with stands and people young and old, many in costume, beginning October 14. But the

main festival runs from November 1 to 5, when the streets spill over with Cosplay, Videogames, Concerts, Literature, Cinema, TV Series and more. Costume

parades, flash mobs, street bands, quizzes and trivia games are all part of the fun.

Guests this year – just to name a few – include Star Wars writer Timothy Zahn, Jason Aaron from Marvel Comics, and Mirka Andolfo, illustrator for

Topolino, DC, and Marvel Comics!

A special feature is the 5th annual Mangaka Contest at “Japan Town”, for aspiring manga comic artists; while in Piazza Santa Maria, for the first time

this year, there will be Videogaming.

An animated film of Pinocchio, sponsored by the nearby town of Collodi, will be shown at the Family Palace. All Lucca Comics & Games

ticket holders can then visit Pinocchio Park and other Collodi attractions at half price throughout 2017 and 2018, to launch the Via Europea della Fiabe (European Fairy Tale Way), dedicated

above all to children.

Dress up or dress down, but don't miss Lucca Comics & Games!

www.luccacomicsandgames.comTel. 0583 892234

photos by Carol Tomlinson

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General markets Books & prints Arts & CraftsLucca, Piazza Cittadella 6-7 SeptemberLucca, Piazzale Don Baroni (River) Wed & Sat a.m. Lucca, Corte del Biancone DailyLucca, Piazza San Giusto last Sat/SundayLucca, Piazza S. Francesco 2nd Sunday of month.Marina di Pietrasanta Wednesday afternoonsAntiquesLucca, Piazza del Carmine Monday to SaturdayCastelnuovo Garfagnana 1st weekend of the monthLucca 3rd Sat/Sunday Sant’ Anna special all day Market & Fair 8 Oct.Pieve Fosciana last SundayAltopascio 2nd SundayB. Giannotti, Foro Boario Sat a.m.Plants and flowers

Montecarlo 2nd SundayS. Maria a Colle Thurs a.m.Lucca, Corso Garibaldi Friday mornings

Forte dei Marmi 1st Sat/Sunday Ponte a Moriano Tues a.m.Pietrasanta 3rd Sunday

Pietrasanta 1st SundayS. Maria del Giudice Mon a.m. Markets in Florence (the biggest)Pietrasanta Thurs a.m. Barga 2nd Sunday Piazza San Lorenzo 7-2 daily, 7-5 Sat, Marina di Pietrasanta Sat a.m. Viareggio 4th Sat/Sunday closed SundaysTonfano Sat a.m. Bientina 4th Sat/Sunday Parco delle Cascine Tuesdays 7am to 2pmCastelnuovo Garfagnana Thurs a.m. Pescia 4th Sunday Piazza dei Ciompi

Pescia Sat a.m. Querceta Saturday mornings Flea Market 9am to 7.30pm daily

WHAT’S ONWHAT’S ON IN & AROUNDIN & AROUND

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October 2017

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine October 2017

Ristorante

In the heart of Lucca's Centro Storico, between Piazza San Francesco and Piazza Anfiteatro, you will find the restaurant Ammodonostro. A new, young, friendly eating place where it will be our pleasure to

create and offer you dishes of the highest quality. At lunchtime, there are daily specialities - simple and quick - in addition to the menu. Bookings welcomed.

This restaurant can accommodate individuals on gluten free diets

Via della Fratta 22, 55100 ~ Lucca tel 0583/953828 Open 11.30am-10pm - Closed Tuesday

www.ristoranteammodonostro.it - [email protected]

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Porcari

Capannori

Colle di Compito & Pieve di Compito

Viareggio32km

Massa Carrara

Forte dei Marmi

Pietrasanta

Sant’Anna di Stazzema

Camaiore

Corsanico (Massarosa)

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San Rossore Park

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Benabbio

Villa Basilica

Pieve a Elici

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Ponte aMoriano

Camigliano

Barga

Castelnuovo Garfagnana

Bagni di Lucca26km

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Music & Theatre Venues

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WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND Tuscany’s GRAPE

Florence 90km

Montecarlo 20km

Montecatini Terme

Altopascio

Prato

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Lucca: Outside Lucca: 34. Pisa, Teatro Verdi, Via Palestro 40. 050 94111, www.teatrodipisa.pi.it

1. Lucca Summer Festival, Pza Napoleone. 20. Sinfonia Music Association, Via N. Sauro, 527 35. Pisa, Scuola Normale Concerts. www.sns.it, 0584 46477 www.ticketone.it 21. Montecarlo, Teatro dei Rassicurati 050 941111 or 050 94118836.

2a/b. San Giovanni and Dei Servi Churches. 22. Porcari: Auditorium Vincenzo Da Massa 36. Pisa, Music under the Tower (OPA). www.puccinielasualucca.com Carrara & Piazza Felice Orsi www.opapisa.it See page17.www. sagramusicalelucchese.com 23. Capannori, Artè, Via Carlo Piaggia. 37. Florence, Maggio Musicale Fiorentino.

3. Lucca Opera Festival, Oratorio Angelo 24. Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Via di Vorno 67, www.operadifirenze.itCustode, Via degli Angeli Custodi. Vorno. 0583 971125, 38. Florence, Teatro Verdi, Via Ghibellina 99. www.iconcertidegliangelicustode.com www.delloscompiglio.org www.teatroverdionline.it

4. Fond. Ragghianti, San Micheletto, AML, 25. Ponte a Moriano 39. Florence, Santo Spirito, Piazza Santo SpiritoLucca In Musica. 0583 469960, a. Teatro I. Nieri, Piazza Cesare Battisti, www.accademiadelispiritati.orgwww.associazionemusicalelucchese.it 0583 465320. 40. S. Anna di Stazzema Peace Organ Festival,

5a. Teatro del Giglio, Pza Giglio. 0583 465320, b. Accademia Montegral, Convento 0584 772025, www.santannadistazzema.orgclosed Mondays and Sundays, dell'Angelo, 0583 406300. 41. Tonfano, Marina di Pietrasanta, Teatro Sant’www.teatrodelgiglo.com 26. Celle dei Puccini, Pescaglia. Puccini Antonio, Via Verdi, 335543579, 3471305764.

5b. Teatro San Girolamo, Museum. 42. Torre del Lago Puccini, Festival Pucciniano.www.teatrodelgiglio.com 27. Altopascio. Via Francigena Festival, 0584 359322.www.puccinifestival.it

6. Real Collegio, Piazza del Collegio Gemignani Music School. 43. Pieve a Elici (Massarosa), AML 0583469960, 7. Boccherini Institute Auditorium, Pza Del 28. Colle di Compito and Pieve di Compito, www.associazionemusicalelucchese.it

Suffragio, www.boccherini.it Compitese Culture Centre. 44. Corsanico (Massarosa) Organ Festival. 8. San Francesco Church, Pza San Francesco 29. Camigliano (Capannori) www.corsanicomusica.it 9. San Michele Church, Pza San Michele 30. Bagni di Lucca, Teatro Accademico, Via 45. Gattaiola, Villa Rossi10. San Paolino Church, Via San Paolino Roma. www.prolocobagnidilucca.it/ 46. Pietrasanta, Teatro la Versiliana. Viale Morin 11. San Romano Auditorium [email protected] (320 6320032) 16, Marina di Pietrasanta. 0584 265757, 12. Palazzo Pretorio Loggia, Pza San Michele 31a. Barga, Villa Libano. Nuovo Circolo dei Complete program www.laversilianafestival.it13. Santa Maria Corteorlandini Church Differenti. 47. San Giuliano Terme. Villa Roncioni (loc. 14. Piazza Cittadella, Puccin’s birthplace, 31b. Opera Barga. 0583 711068, Pugnano). Costumes & hats. Tuesdays to

museum. [email protected], www.operabarga.it Sundays 4pm to 8pm. 050 817900, 15. Botanical Garden concerts, 31c. Barga Jazz. 0583 724418, [email protected], www.fondazionecerratell.it

www.ortobotanicodilucca.it, 0583 442160. www.bargajazz.it 48. Montecatini Terme, Estate Regina Music 16. San Martino (Duomo) 31d. Belcanto in Barga. 340 5831419, Festival, at the Terme & Teatro Verdi. Until 4 17. Amphitheatre Jazz, [email protected] Oct. 0527 78903, www.estateregina.it

www.comune.lucca.it/anfiteatrojazz. See www.belcantoinbarga.com 49. Forte dei Marmi, Villa Bertelli, Viale Mazzini article in June Grapevine. 31e. Il Ciocco, Castelvecchio Pascoli. 0583 7691. 200. 0584 787251 www.villabertelli.it

18. Santa Caterina Church, Via Vittorio Veneto 33a. Castelnuovo Garfagnana, IAM Music 50. Prato, Teatro Metastasio, Via B. Cairoli 59.19. Palazzo Ducale, Sala Tobino Festival, www.iamitalia.com 51. Badia di Camaiore Organ Festival,

33b. Teatro Alfieri, Castelnuovo G., 0583 644185. www.camaioreorganfestival.it

WHAT’S ON IN & AROUNDEVINE Magazine

Tonfano

Florence 90km

Prato

Capannori

San Gennaro

Viareggio32km

Massa Carrara

Forte dei Marmi

Pietrasanta

Seravezza

Camaiore

Abetone

Barga

Ponte a Moriano

Castelnuovo Garfagnana

Bagni di Lucca26km

AAA

N

O

B

K

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E

Q1,Q2

S

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Q3,Q4,Q5

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G U,V,VVI1

I2J1

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J3

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Via S. PaolinoVia S. Croce Via Elisa

Via F

illung

o

Montecarlo 20km

Porcari14km

Tassignano

Torre del Lago

Vecchiano

PISA 26km Vorno

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SS W,X,Y,YY,Z1,Z2,Z3,Z4

H1

M1M2

M3

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Capannori

San Giuliano Terme


Art Exhibition Venues from A to Z

Lucca: Around Lucca: S. Seravezza, Palazzo Mediceo, Viale L.

A. San Francesco Church Complex. L. Vorno: Tenuta dello Scompiglio. Via di Vorno Amadei 230. Every day 5pm to midnight, also

AA. ex Casa del Boia. 67. www.delloscompiglio.org Sat-Sun 10.30am to 12.30pm (noon). 0584

757443.B. Lu.C.C.A. Museum of Contemporary Art, Via M1. Montecarlo, Via Carmignani 20.

della Fratta 36. www.luccamuseum.com M2. Porcari, Fondazione Lazzareschi. SS. Torre del Lago. Art for the Puccini Festival

(www.puccinifestival.it). Puccini Theatre Foyer.C. MUST, Urban Museum of Lucca, Palazzo M3. Tassignano, Artemisia Cultural Center &

Guinigi, Via Guinigi 29. History, archaeology, Library, via dell’Aeroporto 10. 0583 936427.Pisa:

photography. M4. San Gennaro, Palazzo Bocella, Via Celli 52.T1. Palazzo Blu, www.palazzoblu.it

D1. Fondazione Banca del Monte, Pza San N. Ponte a Serraglio, Artisti e Artisti Association.T2. Piazza dei Miracoli. www.opapisa.it

Martino 12. www.fondazionebancadelmonte.it O. Ponte a MorianoT3. SMS Centro Espositivo Museale. Via S.

D2. Banca del Monte, Piazza San Martino. 0583 Barga: Michele degli Scalzi 176. 050 544767.

450278.P1. Town Hall Gallery, Via di Borgo 18. T4. Graphics Museum, Palazzo Lanfranchi

E. Fondazione Ragghianti, San. Micheletto. 0583 Lungarno G. Galileo. 050 2216060. P2. Mount Tabor Ecumenical Center, Via delle

467205.Mura 12. www.mounttabor.it. T5. San Giuliano Terme, Roncioni Villa.

F. Cathedral Museum, Pza Antelminelli. 0583 P3. Villa Libano, Via del Sasso, 7. Nuovo Circolo

490530, [email protected], Prato:dei Differenti. Art exhibitions with live music.

www.museocattedrale.lucca.it U. Palazzo Pretorio. www.facebook.com/circolodifferenti.

G. Villa Bottini, Via Elisa 9. www.palazzopretorio.prato.itP4. Fondazione Ricci, Via Roma 20.

H1. Palazzo Ducale, Pza. Napoleone. V. Textile Museum. Via S. Chiara.

H2. Palazzo Mansi, Via Galli Tassi 43. tel. 0583 Versilia: www.museodeltessuto.it

55570 www.luccamuseinazionali.it Teatro Metastasio. Via B. Cairoli 59.Q1. Pietrasanta. Sant’Agostino Museum, Pza V V.

I1. Santa Giulia Church, Pza del Suffragio. Duomo. 0584 795268.Florence:

I2. San Cristoforo Church, Via Fillungo. Q2. La Meridiana Gallery, Via Barsanti 29. W. Palazzo Strozzi. www.palazzostrozzi.org

J1. State Archives, Piazza Guidiccioni. Q3. Viareggio. Mercurio Arte Contemporanea 43.X. Accademia Gallery. Via Ricasoli 58/60.

J2. State Archives, Piazza Macelli. Corso Garibaldi 116.www.unannodarte.it

New exhibition space. Q4. Viareggio. L. Viani Gallery of Modern & Y. Palatina Gallery. www.unannodarte.it

J3. Domus Romana archaeological site. Via C. Contemporary Art. 0584 976510, www.gamc.itYY. Villa Bardini, Costa San Giorgio 2.

Battisti 15. 0583 050060. Tues & Thurs Q5. Viareggio. Villa Paolina, Via Machiavelli. Z1. Argenti Museum. www.unannodarte.it

10am to 5pm www.domusromana.itForte dei Marmi: Z2. Palazzo Medici Riccardi.

K. Uscher Gallery, Via della Zecca 15. R1. Villa Bertelli, Viale G. Mazzini 200, 0584 Z3. Uffizi. www.unannodarte.it

KK. Real Collegio, Pza del Collegio 13.280292, www.villabertelli.it Z4. Gucci Museum. Piazza della Signoria 10.

R2. Satire Museum, Pza Garibaldi 1. Daily 5pm www.guccimuseo.com

to midnight.

R. Pasquinelli

1 29pm, Piano di Conca,Massarosa. Liuwe Tamminga performs Puccini on the organ. Domenico Di Lorenzo Association

39pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza Dei Servi. Boccherini Open piano concert by Alessio Ciprietti. Info: 0583 464104.9.15pm, Lucca, Orto Botanico, inside Baluardo San Regolo. Swing Italian. Sponsored by Animando, Lucca Jazz, Lucchesi nel Mondo & Opera delle Mura di Lucca.

4

9

23

309pm, Firenze, Obihall. Gigi D’Alessio. Info: bitconcerti.it

249pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza Dei Servi. Boccherini Open piano concert by Benedetta Morelli. Info: 0583 464104.

319pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza Dei Servi. Boccherini Open piano concert by Stefano Teani, with Agnese Manfredini on flute. Info: 0583 464104.

25

179pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza Dei Servi. Boccherini Open piano concert by Veronica Tripodi & Gilberto Rossetti. Info: 0583 464104.

169pm, Lucca, San Francesco Church. Organ improvisations for silent film The Cameraman with Buster Keaton (1928). Presentation by Pier Dario Marzi of Ezechiele 25,17. Domenico Di Lorenzo Association

18

10

9pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza Dei Servi. Boccherini Open piano concert by Sara Vangelli De Cresci & Agata Minnocci. Info: 0583 464104.

811.30pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Puccini World Festival directed by Andrea Colombini. Giglio musical matinee with the brass & percussion sections of La Scala Orchestra performing Gershwin & Puccini. www.puccinielasualucca.it

7pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Puccini World Festival directed by Andrea Colombini. Closing gala concert with Francesca Patanè & Nicola Mugnaini. Buffet reception “Puccini & Porcini” by Il Giglio Restaurant. www.puccinielasualucca.it

154pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. This Is Hollywood, an original musical in honor of Vivien (Pretty Woman) and Marie Du Plessis starring Noemi Smorra. Written/composed by Aldo Innocenti & Giandomenico Anellino. See article in August Grapevine for the rest of the Giglio program for 2017/2018.4.30pm, Pisa, Teatro Verdi. Donizetti’s Pia de’ Tolomei. www.teatrodipisa.pi.it

229.15pm, Lucca, San Francesco Auditorium. Lucca Jazz Donna Grand finale with special guest Amii Stewart in 'Lady D', inspired by Billie Holiday's life, & Giovanni Tommaso trio in Around Gershwin. The evening is dedicated to the Croce Verde voluntary association; contributions are welcome. Browse www.luccajazzdonna.it to find out about the festival's collateral events, such as round tables & conferences. See article on page 19.Lucca, Palazzo Mansi Museum, Via Galli Tassi 43. Alla Ricerca dei Suoni Perduti (In Search of Lost Sounds), exhibit of antique musical instruments. www.luccamuseinazionali.it

298.45pm, Firenze, Teatro Verdi. Massimo Ranieri. Info: bitconcerti.it

6pm, Vorno, Tenuta allo Scompiglio. Concert concluding the Masterclass on the literature of percussion instruments in the XIX Century, held 26 to 29 Oct. & directed by Antonio Caggiano.

Wed Mon Tues Sunday

[email protected] Tuscany’s GRAPEWHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

Music & TheatreOctober 2017

2611am to 7.30pm, Vorno, Tenuta dello Scompiglio 26-29 October, Masterclass on the literature of percussion instruments in the XIX Century directed by Antonio Caggiano. 26 to 29 Oct.

279pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza Dei Servi. Boccherini Open piano concert by Enrico Casini Fidanza. Info: 0583 464104.

2811am, Lucca, with replica at 4pm. Palazzo Mansi Museum, Via Galli Tassi 43. Alla Ricerca dei Suoni Perduti (In Search of Lost Sounds), concerts with antique musical instruments. Presentation by Fernanda Giulini, president of Villa Medici Giulini. www.luccamuseinazionali.it

19

12 13

4pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. This Is Hollywood, an original musical in honor of Vivien (Pretty Woman) and Marie Du Plessis starring Noemi Smorra. Written/composed by Aldo Innocenti & Giandomenico Anellino. See article in August Grapevine for the full Giglio program for 2017/2018.9pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza Dei Servi. Boccherini Open piano concert by Simone Rugani, with Lucas Spagnolo on flute. Info: 0583 464104.9.15pm, Lucca, San Girolamo Theatre. Lucca Jazz Donna presents Francesca Fusco Quintet, Francesca Palamidessi Quintet, & Mariella Pandolfi Quartet featuring François Derissen on the violin. www.luccajazzdonna.it Article pag 19.9.15pm, Lucca, San Salvatore Church, Piazza San Salvatore. Cesare Mancini on the organ. Domenico Di Lorenzo Assoc.

209pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza Dei Servi. Boccherini Open piano concert by Leonardo Macerini. Info: 0583 464104.

148.30pm, Pisa, Teatro Verdi. Donizetti’s Pia de’ Tolomei. www.teatrodipisa.pi.it9pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. This Is Hollywood, an original musical in honor of Vivien (Pretty Woman) and Marie Du Plessis starring Noemi Smorra. Written/composed by Aldo Innocenti & Giandomenico Anellino. See article in August Grapevine for the rest of the Giglio program for 2017/2018.9.15pm, Lucca, San Girolamo Theatre. Lucca Jazz Donna presents Stefania Tallini's Intimidade Piano solo, Letizia Felluga Trio, & the Claudia Bardagi group (voice, piano, drums, guitar). www.luccajazzdonna.it . See article on page 19.

5

9pm, Lucca, San Micheletto, Sala dell’Affresco. Lucca Incanta, music by Geminiani & readings from T. Tasso’s Gerusalemme Liberata (Narrator Piero Nannini with Elisa Baciocchi Baroque Ensemble). Tickets sold at the venue from 5pm. Tel. 340 3181193, www.luccachambermusicfestival.org

Friday Saturday Thu

69pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza Dei Servi. Boccherini Open piano concert by Simone Rugani, with Francesco Gatti on flute. Info: 0583 464104.9.15pm, Tassignano (Capannori), Teatro Artè. Lucca Jazz Donna presents Simona Parrinello Quartet followed by the Radical Boo-Bish Trio (Hammond organ, sax & drums). Browse www.luccajazzdonna.it to find out about the festival's collateral events, such as round tables &conferences. See article pag. 19.

77pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Puccini World Festival directed by Andrea Colombini. La Bohème. www.puccinielasualucca.it

9.15pm, Tassignano (Capannori), Teatro Artè. Lucca Jazz Donna presents Duo Onirico Sonoro & Diana Tejera Quintet. Browse www.luccajazzdonna.it to find out about the festival's collateral events, such as round tables & conferences. See article on page 19.

21

EVINE Magazine WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND www.luccagrapevine.com

To locate the venues, see the map and the list above.

The listings published by Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith.

However, to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information

before setting off.

Puccinielasualucca for its spring/summer season (1 April to 31 October)

offers daily concerts at the Church of San Giovanni at 7pm. Tickets are sold at the door.

[email protected]

or call 340 8106042

Coming Up/OngoingLucca, Boccherini Institute, 11 Nov. Concert inaugurating the Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. La Fanciulla del West, 18-19 academic year.Nov.

Lucca Puccini Days. Featuring Puccini’s relationship Pisa, Teatro Verdi. Il Trovatore 10-12 Nov., Il Cirello 3 Dec., Iris with the Americas. Station Tango, 3 Dec. at San 13-14 Jan., La Fanciulla del West 3-4 Feb., L’Italiana in Algeri Francesco Church. Cantiere Opera Puccini, project 10-11 March. See page 28 of this month’s Grapevine.with Francesco Micheli & Elio delle Storie Tese, with

Simone Soldati at the piano.

8

Exhibitions, October 2017

[email protected] Tuscany’s GRAPEWHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

9

16 17

10Marina di Pietrasanta, LABottega.

Exhibit by French visionary artist Antoine D’Agata, Over Life. Info: 0584 22502, labottegalab.com

8

LAST DAY:

LAST DAY:

LAST DAY: Lucca,

Prato (Carmignano, loc. Bacchereto).

Seravezza,

Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca, Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Piazza

San Martino 7. Mauro Moriconi, Digital Artist. See article in September Grapevine. Complesso di Santa Maria Assunta, Via Santa Maria 6. Antiche

Maioliche di Bacchereto, 1300s to 1500s. Saturdays/ Sundays 11am to 1pm & 4pm to 7pm.Historic Center, Madonna del Carmine, Sant’Antonio, & Santissima Annunziata Churches.

Rivelazioni by Alfredo Rapetti Mogol & Gioni David Parra. Installations & marble works. Thursdays to Sundays 3.30pm to 7pm. Info: 0584 757443.

3

23

30

24

31Pietrasanta, LAST DAY:

Poggiali Gallery & Ex-Fonderia L. Tommasi. Project Room by Marco Fantini.

1LAST DAY: LAST DAY:

LAST DAY: Lucca,

Firenze,Forte dei Marmi,

LuCCA Underground, Via della Fratta 36. Genesis, La Tela Ferita by Alina Ditot.

Forte Belvedere & beyond. “Diffused Exhibition” Ytalia. See article in August Grapevine. Museum of Satire & Caricature, Forte di Leopoldo I. Trumpeide. 150 drawings by 60

satirical artists showing the geopolitical situation created by Donald Trump. museosatira.it

OPENING: Lucca, Santa Giulia Church, Piazza del Suffragio. UCAI artists celebrate 60 years of existence with an exhibition of painting & photography. Hours 4pm to 7pm.

TuesMon Sunday

ONGOING EXHIBITIONS:

Lucca, Lucca,

Viareggio,Lucca,

Lucca,

Lucca,

birth. Curators Paolo Bolpagni & Francesca Pola. 29 Sept. 2017 to 7 January 2018. Tuesdays to Sundays 10am to 1pm, 3pm to 7pm.

Casermetta San Martino. Le stanze del sogno, various locales. Photolux Festival: Mediterraneo, Biennale of

videos & costumes from Teatro del Carretto. Tuesday to Photography. 18 Nov. to 10 Dec. 2017. www.photoluxfestival.it

Sundays 10am to 6pm. Until 5 November 2017.

Centro Matteucci per l’Arte Moderna. Il Secolo Breve. Tessere di Casermetta San Frediano.

‘900. Curated by Susan Ragionieri. 50 works by Thayat, Balla, Severini, De ArTown, City of Lucca Art Collection.

Pisis, Spadini, Campigli, Rosai, Lloyd, Guidi, Paresce, Morandi, Guttuso, Curated by ArteinLucca. 4pm to 7pm

Viani, De Chirico. 3.30pm to 7.30pm Tues. to Fri., Sat/Sun 10am to 1pm, daily.

3.30pm to 7.30pm. Closed Mondays. centromatteucciartemoderna.it

Lucca Center of Contemporary Art, Via della Fratta 36. A l’imparfait de l’objectif, photography by Robert Doisneau. 8 July to 12 Nov. 2017. See article pag. 10 in August Grapevine.

Ragghianti Foundation, Via San Micheletto 3. Mario Nigro, The Spaces of Colour. Retrospective on the centenary of the artist’s

Serravezza,

Castelnuovo di Garfagnana,

Palazzo Mediceo. Plinio Nomellini – From Divisionism to Symbolism, Towards the Freedom of Color. Tuesdays to Saturdays 3pm to 8pm, Sundays & holidays 10.30am to 8pm. Tel. 0584 757443, terremedicee.it Until 5 November.

Duomo. The Black Christ 1977 - 2017. Photographic exhibit showing the 1977 fire, restoration & return to the church of the black Christ. Until 30 Nov.

Gia

nsan

ti

15 LAST DAY:

LAST DAY:

Vorno,

Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, Fortezza di Mont’Alfonso.

Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Via del Vorno 67. VIDEO INSTALLATION by Clara Boulard, Art the Environment Residency Programme. Tel. 0583 971125, www.delloscompiglio.orgfor

Le Fiamme Gialle e la Grande Guerra (1914-18), a commemorative exhibit on the centenary of the war. www.castelnuovogarfagnana.itLAST DAY: Lucca, Santa Giulia Church, Piazza del Suffragio. UCAI artists celebrate 60 years of existence with an exhibition of painting & photography. Hours 4pm to 7pm.

22LAST DAY:

LAST DAY:

Carrara

Lucca,

, Palazzo Cucchiari. Via Cucchiari. After Canova, Sculpture between Florence & Rome. Masterpieces from the Hermitage & from Italian Collections. Open 10am to noon & 5pm to 10pm (closed Mondays). Tel. 0585 72355. www.canovacarrara.it

Oratorio S. Giuseppe, Piazza Antelminelli. The Soul of the Monk, Life in the Minucciano Hermitage by Giovanni Nardini. Black & white photographs of the monks at this retreat in the Apuan mountains. Hours: 3pm to 6pm weekdays, 10am to noon & 3pm to 6pm weekends.

29LAST DAY: LAST DAY:

LAST DAY:

Viareggio,Pietrasanta,

Seravezza,

Villa Argentina. Connections by photographer Massimo Veracini.Piazza Duomo, Sant’Agostino Church & Cloister, & Marina di Pietrasanta

Pier. Monumental works by Korean artist Park Eun Sun. Info: 0584 795500, museodeibozzetti.itGallery of the Arkad Foundation. Riflessi by 52 artists who worked at the

Artco Studio. Sculpture, painting & photography by artists from Italy, China, France, Germany, Serbia & Spain. Weekdays 10am to 1pm, Sat/Sun 5pm to 8pm. Info: 0584 757034 - arkad.it

2D

itot

Park

Eun S

un

Nig

ro

Doisneau

To locate the venues, see the map & list on the back of this calendarExhibitions,

EVINE Magazine WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND www.luccagrapevine.com

18 1920

11

4 OPENING: Lucca, LuCCA Museum, Via della Fratta 36. Tulku. Mystic Reicarnations of Tibet, by G. Mattalin & V. Sevignani. Until 12 Nov.

12

5

13

21Lucca,

LAST DAY: Piazza S. Francesco, S. Franceschetto Church. Pontormo in 3D, video dedicated to Ritratto di Giovinetto in Palazzo Mansi. www.fondazionecarilucca.it

25 26 27 28

14Lucca,

Vorno,

OPENING:

OPEN DAY:

Piazza dei Servi. Agorà Cultural Center. Carta D’Epoca display/market of printing & old books. Until 15 Oct.

Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Via del Vorno 67. 13th Contemporary Day, free admission to permanent installations & temporary exhibitions, 11am to 7.30pm. Tel. 0583 971125 , www.delloscompiglio.org

6 OPENING: Lido di Camaiore, Galleria

Europa, Lungomare Europa 41. Painting Massaciuccoli, an exhibit by Lorenzo Cinquini with presentation by Lodovico Gierut & Marilena Cheli Tomei. Until 18 Oct. www.versiliainfo.com

7

Saturday Thu Friday

Vorno,Perugia,

Udine,

Pistoia, Reggio Emilia,

Padova,Pistoia,

Lodi,

Parma,Florence

Vicenza,

Rome,

,

Via del Vorno 67, Tenuta dello Scompiglio. Video Installations Monumental complex of St. Peter, Borgo XX Giugno 74. Sassoferrato, from the Louvre toby Cecilia Bertoni, round midnight / ritratti, & Cecilia Bertoni with

St. Peters. The collection reunited. Curators Cristina Galassi & Vittorio Sgarbi. Until 5 Nov. Claire Guerrier & Carl G. Beukman, Camera #4 – Il Naufragio. fondazioneagaria.it Installation can only be viewed one visitor at a time. Reservation is

Castello di Udine. L’offensiva di carta. La Grande Guerra (1914-1918) illustrata, from kindly requested. Until 17 Dec. 2017.Luxardo collection to contemporary cartoons. Until 7 Jan. 2018.

Palazzo del Tau. Mirò & Marino, The Colors of the Palazzo Magnani. Kandinsky to Cage: Music & Spirituality in Art. Curator Mediterranean. Until 7 Jan. 2018. Martina Mazzotta. 11 Nov. 2017 to 25 Feb. 2018.

Palazzo del Monte di Pietà. Galileo Revolution: artist, poet, man of letters, scientist. 18 Palazzo Fabroni. Passioni Visive by sculptor Marino Nov. 2017 to 18 March 2018. www.fondazionecariparo.it

Marini. Until 7 Jan. 2018. The exhibit continues at Peggy various locations. Festival of Ethical Photography. 7 to 29 October Guggenheim Museum (Venice), 27 Jan. to 1 May 2018 2017. www.festivaldellafotografiaetica.it

Fondazione Magnini-Rocca, Mamiano di Traversetolo. Publicity, Palazzo Strozzi. The Cinquecento in Florence. From

The Birth of Modern Communication 1890-1957. Until 10 December Michelangelo and Pontormo to Giambologna, a spectacular 2017. www.magnanirocca.itexhibition devoted to the art of the 16th century in Florence Basilica Palladiana. Van Gogh, Tra il grano e il cielo (between showcasing over 70 works of art by such artists as Michelangelo, the wheat & the sky). 7 October 2017 to 8 April 2018.Bronzino, Giorgio Vasari, Rosso Fiorentino, Pontormo, Santi di Tito, Scuderie del Quirinale. Picasso. Between Cubism & Classicism: Giambologna and Bartolomeo Ammannati. Until 21 January 2018. 1915-1925. Until 21 January 2018.

WORTH THE TRIP ...

October 2017

Wed

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HOLIDAYS, TRADITIONS, SPORTS, OUTDOORS

CHILDREN

CINEMA

CONFERENCES

COMING UP

MEET-UP GROUPS

Grapevine conversation group at Cantine Bernardini (Piazza del Suffragio) Thursdays at 8.15pm. Come for a drink or dinner,

THROUGHOUT ITALY English & Italian conversation. Upcoming topics: The Job Search, Reading a Libretto to improve pronunciation &

All Saints Day (Ognissanti) on November 1st is a sacred na- vocabulary, Basics of interfacing smart phones with computers. tional holiday when Italians remember their loved ones. (Moderators for these & other topics please come forth!) Call Chrysanthemums are purchased for the graves. 333 8617962.

November 2nd is known as the Day of the Dead. English Mondays 4pm to 6pm conversation group, at Undici Undici, Piazza Antelminelli, Lucca. Free as long as we buy a November 4th is the day of national unity.drink or food. Contacts: Diletta, [email protected], Dee,

THROUGHOUT TUSCANY [email protected], FB “English Mondays”.

Parco delle Apuane Tuscan Walking Festival, 24 Sept. to 8 Luccalele, convivial group for ukelele fans at Undici Undici, Oct. www.parcapuane.it - www.tuscanywalkingfestival.it Piazza Antelminelli. Wednesdays beginning 5.30pm. Contact

Paolo at 380 4358318 or email [email protected]

Vorno, Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Via del Vorno 67.

21-22 October, overnight at Caprese Michelangelo for the Il Baule Volante, Il sogno di Tartaruga. 8 Oct. 3.30pm & 5pm.

chestnut fair (see page 5).Recommended age: 4 –10 years old.

23 November, Thanksgiving lunch at La Cantina di Carignano (see page 2).

Lucca Film Festival & Europa Cinema. Beginning 3 Oct., every Tuesday for 12 weeks. Lessons 6 to 8pm, film 9pm. €85. Enrol at [email protected]

Lucca, Cinema Modern Black Sabbath The End of the End (Dick Carruthers with Teatro Pirata, Robinson Crusoe. L'avventura . 22 Oct 3.30pm Ozzy Osbourne, musical documentary). 4 Oct. 9pm. €12 (re-& 5pm. Recommended age: 7 -13 years old. duced €10). Tel. 0583 971125 , www.delloscompiglio.orgFerrari 312B (with Niki Lauda, documentary). 10 Oct. 8.30pm. €10 (reduced €8).

Lucca, Cinema Astra Valerian & la Città dei mille pianeti (by Luc Besson, scifi ad-venture). 1/2/3/4 Oct. 10.15pm. Tuesday is reserved for Cineforum Ezechiele. Emoji - Accendi le emozioni (animation film). 1 & 4 Oct. 6pm & 8.15pm. Ticket prices range from €6 to €8.

Lucca, Cinema CentraleL’inganno by Sofia Coppola (with Nicole Kidman & Colin Farrell). 1 & 4 Oct. 8.30pm & 10.30pm (also 4pm & 6.15pm on Lido di Camaiore, Lungomare Europa. Halloween in Sunday). €8, €6.Passeggiata. Promotional fair & pumpkins decorated for chil-Human Flow by Weiwei Ai (documentary). 2 Oct. 9pm. €8, €6.dren. 28-29 Oct. 9am to 8pm.La Bohème the opera, live in HD via satellite from the Royal Opera House by Antonio Pappano. 3 Oct. 8.15pm. €12, €10.

Firenze, Cinema Odeon at Palazzo Strozzi. Original language films with Italian subtitles. www.odeonfirenze.com

Pisa, New York Academy. Films: Oct. 27, 8pm to 10pm. Followed on Dec. 8, 8pm to 10pm.

Pisa, Palazzo Blu Auditorium, conferences (5pm). 26 Oct., Ettore Cinnella Guerra, rivoluzione, sogni di pace. 16 Nov., Arturo Marzano La Dichiarazione Balfour. Please arrive 30 min-utes before the lecture. Tel. 050 2204650, [email protected]

Pisa, New York English Academy, Via S. Paolo 11. Poetry & Aperitivo. William Blake with Prof. Shimon Shemtov. 13 Oct., 10 Nov, 15 Dec. Please reserve. Tel. 346 212 8055www.newyorkenglishacademy.com

Book Club meetings at Da Francesco Restaurant (near the train station), last Wednesday of each month at 8pm.

Chestnuts (La Castagnata):1 Oct. Metello, Castelnuovo di Garfaganana, from 3pm8 Oct. Trassilico (Gallicano), from 2.30 to 7pm8 Oct. Cascio (Molazzana)15 Oct., Careggine, 9am to 6.30pm28-29 Oct., Loggiata Porta, Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, from 2.30pm. With music by the Church Corale.29 Oct., Club Alpino Italiano, Fortezza di Mont’Alfonso, Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, 2pm to 7pm29 Oct., Lago di Pontecosi (Pieve Fosciana), noon to 7pm

Wine:15 Oct. Riana (Fosciandara) from 11amPumpkins:28 Oct. Selva del Buffardello (San Romano in Garfagnana)

LUCCA AND SURROUNDING TOWNS

Lucca Comics & Games. Displays from 14 Oct. to 5 Nov, Festival 1 to 5 Nov. Wed/Thur/Fri 9am to 7pm, Sat/Sun 9am to 8pm. See article on page 10.www.luccacomicsandgames.com

Halloween at Borgo a Mozzano near Ponte del Diavolo. Inspired by the leg-endary Lucida Mansi.

Lucca, Carta d’Epoca. Annual market & displays of printing & antique books. Piazza dei Servi & Choistro Agorà. 14-15 Oct.

Lucca, Sant’Anna Market & Fair all day 8 Oct.

Lucca Marathon, 42 km starting on the city walls & continuing to Capannori, Porcari & beyond. 22 Oct. www.luccamarathon.com

Lucca, Villa Bottini. Fashion in Flair. Exhibition & sales. 13 to 15 October.

Lucca, Real Collegio. Desco Sapori & Saperi, a huge annual food exhibition. 18 Nov. to 10 Dec.( weekends).

Porcari in Oriente 7-8 Oct. 10am to 10pm. Bonsai, Zen gardens, eth-nic cooking, workshops, etc. Stores open on Sunday, throughout town. Sponsored by the Lazzareschi Foundation (Piazza Orsi).

Montecarlo Historic Center 8 Oct. 16th annual Grand Tour of Montecarlo. Kursaal Car Club.

Montecarlo Historic Center 14-15 Oct. Montecarlo Chocolate.

Montecarlo Historic Center. Montecharloween, 31 Oct., LuBeC Conference. 12-13 Oct. Real Collegio di Lucca.

Halloween evening. Sponsored by Arciconfraternità di Innovation & culture (seminars & presentations), www.lubec.it

Misericordia.

La Fraternità del deserto, documentary film on Fratel Arturo Piazza al Serchio, 7 Ott., excursion on the Via del Volto Santo.

Paoli. 19 Oct. 9pm at auditorium of Fondazione Banca del www.garfagnana.cai.itMonte di Lucca in Piazza San Martino.

Pisa Food & Wine Fair, Stazione Leopolda. 21-22 Oct. 10am to 11pm, pisafoodwinefestival.it Montecarlo, New Wine & Oil Festival. 4-5, 11-12 Nov.

Barga Chestnut Fair, 4 to 5 Nov. Food competitions for chest-nut-related dishes.Lucca, Desco Food & Wine Fair at the Real Collegio begins in mid-November.

October Fair (mushrooms, truffles, chestnuts, ...), Castiglione Lucca, Palazzo Ducale. 18 Nov. to 8 Dec., World Press Garfagnana. 8 Oct. 9am to 6pm. Photography Exhibit. www.photoluxfestival.it

Grapevine’s annual Thanksgiving lunch at La Cantina di Camporgiano, Polenta in the tradition. 8 Oct. from 12.30pm.

Carignano with Chef Paolo Monti (S. Alessio, Lucca). See page 2. Reserve at 333 8617962 or [email protected] delle Frazioni, Piazzale Chiappini, Castelnuovo di

Garfagnana, 21 Oct.Subscribe to: www.turismo.lucca.it for more events & tours.Sapori d’autunno, Pieve Fosciana, 22 Oct.

VILLAGE FESTIVALS(www.turismo.garfagnana.eu)

Grapevine is collaborating with the following events (email us or call 333 8617962 to reserve):

photo

by C

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l Tom

linson

Clues in English have Italian answers and clues in Italian have English answers

ACROSS DOWN1 Carrozzina per un bimbo (4)3 King of the Round Table (2,2,4) 1.15 He married Cinderella and Snow 9 Ulysses’ island (5) White (8,7)10 Cantante popolare che manda in 2 Le Mille e Una Notte (7,6)

visibilio le ragazze (3,4) 4 Piccolo PC (6)11 Chemical (7) 5 Imperatrice (7)12 Uscita (4) 6 Cappuccetto rosso (3,6,4)14 Qualche panda (6) 7 Erano così le sorellastre della 16 Aspirare (6) Cenerentola (4)18 Cognome dell’esploratore 8 Snow White’s little friends (4)

Bartolomeo; surname of the explorer 13 Non diventava mai adulto (5,3)Bartholomew (4) 15 See 1 down

19 Lustrino, paillette (7) 17 Exhibits (6)22 Joke (7) 20 Argus(4)23 Complesso (5) 21 Usato (4)24 Disposto, incline (8)25 Il primo giardino; the first garden (4)

Cruciword by Helen Askham Fairy Stories & Legends

September solution

A S C O T M A CC H A S I O

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Teatro di San Girolamo in Lucca, on 13 October, with the Festival, more jazz is in Lucca now with the XIII Francesca Fusco Quintet, the Francesca Palamidessi Quintet, season of the Lucca Jazz Donna Festival. The festival and finally the Mariella Pandolfi Quartet featuring François A is organized by the Circolo Lucca Jazz together with Derissen on the violin. On October 14, another triple night at San

the towns of Lucca and Capannori and the Province of Lucca, and Girolamo, with Stefania Tallini's Intimidade Piano solo, the is supported by the Tuscan Region, Fondazione Cassa di Letizia Felluga Trio, and the Claudia Bardagi group (voice, Risparmio di Lucca, and Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca. piano, drums, guitar).From September 30 to October 22, the festival will bring great On October 22 the grand finale will take place in the national and international female jazz musicians to Lucca. All the Auditorium of San Francesco in Lucca, with special guest Amii concerts begin at 9.15 pm. Admission is free. Stewart presenting 'Lady D', inspired by Billie Holiday's life, and

The festival opened at the end of September and will Giovanni Tommaso's trio presenting Around Gershwin. The continue with two double bill evenings at the Teatro Artè in evening is dedicated to Lucca's Croce Verde voluntary association; Tassignano (Capannori) on October 6, featuring the Simona contributions will be welcome. Browse www.luccajazzdonna.it to Parrinello Quartet followed by the Radical Boo-Bish Trio find out about the festival's collateral events, such as round tables (Hammond organ, sax & drums); and October 7 featuring Duo and conferences.Onirico Sonoro and the Diana Tejera Quintet. Triple night at the – by Chiara Calabrese

fter an intense summer with the Anfiteatro Jazz

Amii Stewart, special guest at Lucca Jazz Donna


cloudy weather after a very wet weekend. Olives are not picked during the rain. So off we go to our waiting ladders and my very first tree!

First, we need to lay the netting down around the tree and stake up the ends that head downhill so that the

olives don’t roll away. We prepared “my” tree (photo left) and I began gently stripping the

branches of the beautiful olives, finding some resistant while others were happy to find the ground. I reached as high as I could on the first rounding of the tree, making sure my feet were never stepping on the fallen olives. Then it was time for the top. Marino set the ladder, and I began cleaning the top of the tree, stretching in all directions, making sure no olive was left hanging.

ast year at this time, I was invited to help Marino and Our grove was peaceful, but we could hear in the distance Yvonne Guilizzoni (photo center page) with their olive the hum of the machines that other harvesters were using on their harvest up in the hills outside of Lucca. As an American trees. We talked about the challenges of maintaining a healthy LLexpat living in the area, I jumped at the chance to tree and the natural ways to treat the insect (mosca olearea) that

experience this cultural tradition of Italy firsthand. crippled Italy's olive oil production a few years ago. Marino and My good friend Flavia had told Yvonne treat their trees with love, nat-

me many stories about her parents' ural preventives, and a peaceful envi-property up in the country. She told me ronment. They are happy trees, not about the big vegetable garden, the like some of their kin in the country modest vineyard, the fruit and nut that are getting a beating!!trees, rare and spectacular flowers, When the tree is clean, the netted and the 220 olive trees that all share olives are dumped into a crate. My space on the sprawling property. Her tree's production filled half a crate. mother cooks and cans everything, Marino said I harvested less than a while her father manages the vineyard glass of oil. It took me several hours to and olive trees, all in perfect harmony. clean the tree. That gave me a whole So on this crisp fall morning, riding new perspective and appreciation for the bus from Lucca to Marlia, I'm this wonderful golden liquid!! excited to become part of this event. I am back for my second day. It is

Yvonne picks me up from the bus quite cold and damp from a light rain stop and we head up the mountain to a overnight. We are picking in an area little village called Valgiano, consist- that got hit pretty hard with the recent ing of about twenty homes and wind and rain storm. Trees that were known for its special wine and olive heavy with olives are now only half oil. The winding road is only wide full. The precious olives are all on the enough for one car, with blind corners ground, where they will remain and at every turn. Lots of horn honking is fertilize the trees. As Marino says, it is required while driving! We are always a race against Mother Nature. greeted by Marino and two large Some years they are luckier than Belgian Shepherd dogs. I am wel- others. We work faster on these trees comed into their home and shown the with less yield, and finish five of them changing room, where my gear in about four hours. awaits me. I change into borrowed sweat-pants, and layering my There are four types of olive trees on the property. We are tops to stay warm, put on my raincoat, baseball cap, boots, eye picking both green and black olives, which are very difficult to see shields, and gloves. without the bright yellow glasses we wear. The leaves are sharp

Marino insists the olive oil is only at its best if the olives are and we need to be careful as they snap back in our faces. The two-picked by hand. He believes the machines, sticks and other harsh legged ladders gently rest up against limbs and branches. means of dislodging the olives, which are commonly used today, I am very excited this morning because the olives are going to damage the delicate olives, causing bruising and rot before they be pressed. Marino likes to have between 200 and 250 kilos of olives are processed, resulting in a rancid or bitter taste in the finished for each pressing and these must be accumulated within a five or six product. So only gloved hands will gently strip the olives from the day period to retain the quality. Yvonne picks me up and we head to branches, taking great care not to break the branches or pull too Torre to meet up with Marino. Torre is about 10 km from their home many leaves. and has one of the few original cold presses left in the area. We help

Friends and family have been picking for two weeks prior, but Marino unload the olives into large crates to be weighed. This yield there are still 95 trees left to harvest. We are fortunate to have only is 426 kilos. His cost is 21 euro per 100 kilos for pressing.


From Olive to Golden Oil

The crates are dumped into a bin that has a step feeder into the washing area. Here the lighter The stack is moved into the pressing chamber. After thirty leaves, twigs and debris float to minutes, the stack is one-third its size and the extracted golden oil the top and are removed. After a is moved through tubes to a much smaller vat. Any remaining brief drying, they are moved into pulp gets directed to another receptacle and is reused. The oil goes the grinding vat, where two huge through an extremely powerful spinning process that pulls the wheels crush the olives into a water out so only the pure, unfiltered extra-virgin product flows chunky paste. This takes about through the spout into the waiting vessels. This is like watching thirty minutes. A small trap door liquid gold magically appear!opens at the bottom of the vat and Here is the shocker: out of 426 large scrapers push the paste out of kilos of olives, the yield is 61 kilos

of oil, just 14.3% on this batch. The average yield is 10 to 18% and their olives usually stay in the 14 to 15% range, which is considered very good. It gave me a whole new appreciation for all the hard work that goes into each drop of this pre-cious liquid. For these farmers, it is truly a labor of love. The remain-ing “waste pile” is dumped outside on a big mound where a truck will eventually scoop it up and take it to another processing plant. Marino told me the regulations in Italy are a bit lax on quality control, and it is very difficult for the customer to find out how much first press oil the commercial bottle contains, because color and flavor enhancers are also in use.

You should read labels care-fully before buying your next bottle of extra virgin olive oil. Look for “cold pressed, unfil-tered, first press, untreated, organic/biological” to be fairly confident it is actually “extra virgin”. You will discover a remarkable difference in taste. I'm spoiled now! This experience has been life-changing for me.

Thank you, Marino and Yvonne, for this incredible opportunity.

– by Valencia Wolf

the vat into a pump feeder. A machine operator sets each ring onto the rotating platform so that a layer of paste can be applied. These rings are made out of a heavy, woven fibrous material. Five of these rings are filled and stacked on a post, then a steel ring is added between each five rings to increase the pressure. A full batch of paste should create a stack about four feet high.

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1 The unloading

2 The empty truck

3 Washed and ready for grinding

4 In the grinding machine

5 Layering the rings with the paste

6 Waste from the first pressing. This comes off the rings, which are reused.

7 The rich oil being pressed out of each layer

8 What’s left after the full pressing, about one-third of the stack

9 The pulp waste from the pressing that gets reused

10 The waste pile that goes to the other mills

11 Fill ‘er up!!

12 Like liquid gold!!! So delicious!!


When the soil has been cleared and leveled, distribute ear friends, this year autumn hasn't kept us waiting. It chemical fertilizer. This should have a high percentage of has respected the deadline of 21 September, the day phosphorous, which helps the grass in its early growing phase and officially ending the summer. Our regional weather DDcenter calls for October temperatures and rainy days has an important effect on the root development. At this point you need to choose seed or turf.slightly above average, so we must be well organized in order to

Obviously the use of lawn that is ready to roll out allows an take care of everything we need to do to care for our green spaces, almost instant lawn, which is not only aesthetically pleasing, but or to create new ones. There is a lot of work, but these chores will also technically satisfying. For example:help us to have a beautiful garden next spring.�Rolled surfaces can be used after only two to three weeks, unlike For those who have not planned ahead, adapting their watering

seeded surfaces, which require a wait of a month and a half.times to the current season, it's time to do so. The sun has changed �There is no problem of seeds washing away with the rains, its trajectory, passing lower and not heating the earth as it did a

especially on sloping surfaces, and no risk of birds or ants eating month ago. So it's important to reduce or even stop (if there are the seeds.occasional rain showers) watering, to avoid wasting water, and to

�Rolled out grass instantly covers the ground, greatly limiting avoid harming our plants by rotting the root systems with excessive weed development.humidity. We lower the blades of our lawnmowers in order to cut

Seeding the lawn has other characteristics. For example, there is an the grass at a lower level (while always collecting the cut grass), so immediate saving in cost. But the result may be inferior quality and that the sun can “kiss” the earth, and dry it in the right places. We higher maintenance, at least during the growing phase, when any rake up the leaves that are gradually beginning to fall, so that they surviving weeds have to be removed, and re-seeding may be don't accumulate and suffocate the lawn, by remaining under or needed in areas where seeds are washed away by the rain, or eaten near deciduous plants. Towards the end of the month, to help our by birds or ants. Often the choice depends both on the lawn size and lawn survive through winter, we fertilize it with a sulfate of on the desired result.magnesium potassium mixture. This will reinforce the grass roots

Throughout the autumn, there is plenty of work. The many and maintain the beautiful green mantle, though if your lawn needs tasks left to do include pruning the hedges and ornamental major overhauling, you might want to re-turf or re-seed.bushes, and carry out the final treatments on plants such as roses. This is a good time for starting new lawns. Doing this Roses need copper in order to resist scabies, and to prevent this depends on the type of exposure and the soil, as well as the quality malady even in the upcoming year. Citrus plants, before being of the work that we want to achieve. In general, however, the brought inside our greenhouses for the winter, will probably need sequence is as follows:to be cured of the annoying attack of the leaf-miner Firstly, removal of weeds. Apply a treatment to kill the weeds. (Phyllocnistis citrella), by using specific chemical or biological Wait about a week so that the weeds can absorb the product, then treatments.remove and clear away the remains. Before beginning to prepare

In the orchard, too, there's plenty of work. One of the principal the soil, I suggest you make some excavations for new systems of chores is gathering up the falling leaves and burning them, in order watering, lighting, drainage, or whatever else might be necessary,

to reduce the spread of fungal so that you will not have to spores that are present in the disturb the lawn after it has been leaves, and may survive even laid. Then, apply an organic into the next season.fertilizer. This will be buried

My friends, according to when the soil is turned, which can the proverb, chi ha tempo non be done with a motorized vehicle aspetti tempo (or as we say in (or tractor, depending on the size English, time and tide wait for of the surface). After the tilling, if no man) – so let's get to work! needed, clear out any weed root

systems, rocks, or other materials Happy gardening to all!that may have come to the

surface. With a rake, level the – by Simone Lippiground so that it slopes in the

Il Cerchio Verderight direction, in other words Tel. 0583 316713,towards the points of rainwater

335 8354437collection, such as well, canals, or www.ilcerchioverde.itdrainage tubes.

Our Lawns at Season's End


he only kind of cooking I have ever cared for is relaxed and unpretentious, producing food that becomes a part of our lives and of TTour warmest memories, food that we want to

go back to again and again and again, simple food that has only one objective: to taste good. These are the words of the noted Italian cook Marcella Hazan, who died in 2013 aged 89. Her Marcella's Kitchen is one of those well-thumbed books my mother sent, with love

to all the cooks in the house, in the 1980s when we first came to Italy.

Thyme, or timo as it is As Marcella said, the objective is to make simple food that tastes called in Italy, certainly fits good. Here's a recipe from Marcella's kitchen to get you thinking, Marcella's bill, and is one of the and as always your own creativity will guide you onwards. central herbs appearing in countless Italian dishes, from chicken and lamb stews, to risotti, to all kinds of pasta.... Don't we all love it? And we're not the only ones.... Ancient Egyptians used thyme for embalming their dead; the ancient Greeks used it in their baths and burnt it as incense in their temples, believing it a source of courage and bravery. The spread of thyme throughout Europe was thought to be due to those wonderful Romans, as they used it to purify their

rooms and to give aroma to cheeses and liqueurs. In the European Middle Ages, thyme was put under pillows to aid sleep and ward off nightmares. (Worth a try?) Women often gave their knights and warriors gifts that included thyme leaves, as they were still believed to bring courage to the bearer, as in ancient Greece. Thyme was also used as incense and placed on coffins, to ensure passage into the next life.

Oil of thyme, the essential oil of common thyme (Thymus Vulgaris), contains 20 to 54% of thymol. Thyme essential oil also contains a range of additional compounds, but let's not get too blinded by science here.... Thymol, an antiseptic, is an active ingredient in various commercially produced mouthwashes. Before the advent of modern antibiotics, thyme oil was used to medicate bandages, and is effective against infected toenails. Thymol is the active ingredient in some all-natural, alcohol-free hand sanitisers. Shall we go on here? Let's leave the final words here to Shakespeare, who is known

A tisane made by infusing thyme in water can be used to help and loved around the world. We can relax on his thyme-covered coughs.... But let's get back to food, since we are in Tuscany and flowery bank and dream up dishes for future great meals, which we all love food. then revive what Marcella called warm memories....

Thyme is very powerful, so you don't need much of it to flavour your dishes. It's great to season meats, stuffings, I know a bank where the wild thyme blows,

Where oxlips and the nodding violet grows,marinades and some seafoods. The easiest way to use fresh thyme Quite over-canopied with luscious woodbine,is simply to pull the small leaves off the stiff stalks, using just the With sweet musk-roses and with eglantine.leaves in your cooking. Takes a bit of TIME, but so worth it...

So here we have the fourth in the herb series we've published – A Midsummer Night's Dreamthis year: parsley (June), sage (August), rosemary (September)

and now thyme.... If you put these together with garlic (May), you – by Judith Edwardshave the Famous Five. Remember the Enid Blyton books about

www.cansurviving.comthe Famous Five who carried on rocking adventure after www.judithedwards.co.ukadventure? So do these wonderful additions to your kitchen.

INSALATA DI FAGIOLINI MARINATI (marinated bean salad)

As Marcella says, 'French' beans are one of the best vegetables for absorbing flavours, and of course we adopted Tuscan bean-eaters love them too....

All you do for the marinade is put chopped parsley, basil, thyme and a bit of cider vinegar in a large bowl and let them all steep for ten minutes. Then add finely chopped onion and garlic and steep again for thirty minutes. Boil (my preference is to steam) the beans until they are still quite firm, then add the hot beans to the bowl of marinade. Marcella suggests a minimum of a hour's marinade here, or you could of course leave overnight... It is good too with lemon zested peel. But that's my addition. Serve at room temperature, adding olive oil, salt and black pepper just before serving. Buon Appetito!

Time after time after time: The perennial charm of THYME



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c) promise to remain in Italy for at least 2 years advantage is upon transfer of fiscal residency to Italy. The notion d) carry out their working activity primarily in the Italian of fiscal residency is disciplined by art. 2 of the TUIR (Single text

territory (for at least 183 days of the year) on taxation and earnings), to which article 16 D.Lgs 147/2015 e) in the case of dependent work, workers must hold clearly refers: Those persons who for most of the year are

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work or business outside Italy within the last 24 months; first case, applying the reduced taxation is normally the task of b) or have studied outside Italy within the last 24 months or the Italian employer, in managing the employee's monthly pay

more, earning a degree equivalent to the Laurea or post- package. In the second case, the benefit is applied directly when Laurea specialization (B.A. or superior); the earnings declaration (tax statement) is presented.

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FOR RENT in LUCCA historic centre, taste-RESTAURANT/BAR ACTIVITY at Bagni di fully furnished & restructured apartment Lucca, successful business with seating for 50 within a medieval tower. Large living room, inside and 50 outside. Optimum opportunity dining room, kitchen, bedroom, 2 bath-for someone wishing to move to Tuscany. rooms, laundry, loft (sleeps 3) & additional Well-known restaurant, perfectly equipped bathroom. Available in January. € 980/mo.and up to code. International clientele. Cl F www.remax.it/30811001-854 € 90,000. www.remax.it/30811014-34

SANTA MARIA DEL GIUDICE, part of a LUCCA BORGO GIANNOTTI, apartment country villa, approx 260 sqm, in an inviting with terrace, newly restored with fine style. position & in good condition, with panoramic

Living room, large kitchen with balcony, 2 terrace on the roof. Scenic & quiet, facing its

bedrooms & 2 bathrooms. Just a step away own property (fruit trees, olives, forest).

from the town centre! € 240,000. Cl A Haybarn of 100 sqm to restore. € 320,000.

www.remax.it/30811016-10Cl G IPE 220,6 www.remax.it/30811001-831

AQUILEA, a 140sqm portion of a larger BEST PRICE!!! 6 km from the center of Lucca, property with small garden, 8 km da Lucca. an interesting property with large country home This is a cute home with typical Tuscan & adjacent shed. 3000sqm garden, perfect for characteristics, partially in need of a pool. Adapted for creating a Bed & Breakfast modernization, with a fantastic view. Perfect or for division among several families. Needs to live in or to spend peaceful holidays in the

some updating. € 170,000. Cl G IPE 512,10 quiet, not far from all services. € 118,000.

www.remax.it/30811001-764Cl G IPE 342 www.remax.it/30811014-29

CASTELVECCHIO DI COMPITO, typical BARGA, Villa Pieroni, a splendidly restored country house, already restored, with 4 Liberty villa with original furnishings, bedrooms, spacious enough for a large overlooking the valley, with a large family. Well cared for & spacious garden, swimming pool. The property includes about with garage & another building furnished 4 ha, & there are 4 other partially restored with kitchen & bread oven. € 360,000. Cl F buildings. € 1,100,000. Cl G IPE 358,02IPE 187,56 www.remax.it/30811001-830 www.remax.it/30811001-850


Ref. 943:

Ref. 1320:

Ref. 620:

Ref. 162:

Media Valle Serchio, charming house (8 rooms, 2 baths, 200 sqm) located near the centre of Barga, fully renovated to high quality standard. APE class G. 450,000 euros

Molazzana (Garfagnana), a group of 4 stone built houses (3 already renovated) with terraced

land & swimming pool in a panoramic setting. APE Class F. 795,000 euros

Fully renovated rural home (200 sqm) on 6 hectares of land. Barn, room for a pool. Very panoramic position near Barga. APE Class G. 650,000 euros

Near Barga, a former lemonry overlooking the historic center, converted into a loft environment.

AP Class C.180,000 euros

Agenzia Immobiliare Dimore Toscane srl Via Marconi 14, Barga - Lucca - Italy


SAN GINESE. Delightful country property that can be

used as a farmhouse or renovated into an elegant

estate. South-facing. Currently 3 bedrooms with study

+ large attic for more space, 1 bath with country

kitchen, living room. Adjacent laundry/workroom with

upstairs storage room & additional cantinas. Total 380

sqm. On a hill overlooking the Compitese villages &

Lago di Bientina. Approx. 4000 sqm (grapes/olives/

fruit-trees/forest). € 460,000. (Ref. 1165)

A short stroll from Lucca’s town center, this spa-cious, well-kept home in Sant'Anna has 12 rooms (4-6 bedrooms & 3 baths), with a garden and patio on 4 sides. Built in the early 1900s. €850 ,000 . Contac t Grapevine for referral. (Ref. 1144)

(also visible at www.luccagrapevine.com)

Classified Advertisements

Main house (3 bedrooms, 3 baths) & spacious at-tached apartment (3 bedrooms, 2 baths). Both are on 2 levels with living room, fireplace, din-ing area & kitchen downstairs. Outside there is ample parking, including garage hidden under a large terrace, Pizza oven. Space for pool. Fruit trees, olives & flowers abound, with several hectares of gated property & a charming stream flowing around the property. € 780,000. Contact Grapevine to arrange a visit. (Ref. 1167)

IMPRESSIVE VILLA SOUTH OF LUCCA

IDEAL FOR TWO FAMILIES

Sought-after CAMAIORE: Large fully renovated farmhouse with 10m x 18m pool, guesthouse, olives, gardens & new well. 6 bedrooms, 6 baths. 6-8 hectares. Beautiful mountain views, yet easy bike to town. Short drive to Lucca & Beaches. Website: casaskala.net.

Euro 1.4 million. Contact Grapevine for further information. (Ref. 1175)

Ideal for fishermen & bathers, a home facing the Serchio River, at the foot of the Brancoli hills. This country estate from the early 1900s has been restored with traditional tile & parquet

floors, fitted kitchen, marble stairs, wooden railings, etc.

The large garden (over 1500 sqm) is bordered by a mule track & ancient stone wall, with palms, grapes, olives & fruit trees. A sheltered terrace outside the kitchen door is ideal for dining al fresco. The house is separated from the road by a secure gate, and there is parking for 4-5 cars inside the property and along the river.

Energy certificate available. € 420,000.Contact Grapevine (Ref. 1179)

Can be used as a single home (5-6 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, on 3 floors) or as two totally separate apartments (total 408 sqm).

RIVERFRONTPROPERTY

painting - varnishing - plastering - resin finishesContact Ranieri Organelli

cell 338 8701365 fax 0583 [email protected]

Near Devil's Bridge (Borgo a Mozzano). Country estate. Large kitchen/dining room, pantry, 2 sitting rooms, fireplace, study/office, 2 bedrooms, 2 baths downstairs. 3 bedrooms, 3 baths upstairs. Large swimming pool. English garden. 1.5 hectares for strolling through meadows & forest. Wheelchair access & large parking area. Photovoltaic & solar systems. € 695,000. By owner. Contact Grapevine for confidential transactions. (Ref. 1147)

Design and installation gardens terraces and watering systems

Garden maintenanceTypical Tuscan gardens

tel 0583 316713Simone 335 [email protected]

www.ilcerchioverde.it

Il Cerchio Verde

335 6777833

via De Gasperi n° 279 • 55100 Lucca

[email protected] • www.ri-struttura.it

Professional offices facing Lucca’s Walls

Sold by owner

Thanks

to Grapevine

Please use the form on our webpageor send us an email at [email protected]


RENTALS

LESSONS, TRANSLATIONS & COURSES

ENGLISH-SPEAKING PROFESSIONAL SERVICES

APARTMENT TO RENT. Airy, classy 160 sqm apartment in 15th century Palazzo: 2 big bed-rooms, 2 bathrooms, hydromassage, huge kitchen, living room, full comforts. Air/co, cen-tral heating, safe, wifi, beams, Tuscan cotto tiles. Short & medium term rentals. From mid November. Located in the heart of Lucca. Tel. 0039 3396511236, [email protected] (Ref. 1180)

Online Property Marketers - Based in the UK we market Holiday Rentals and Villas For Sale in Tuscany. We require extra properties to market for the 2018 season in the province of Lucca, email: [email protected] (Ref. 1181)

Spend the Holidays in Florence – Fabulous, spacious one-bedroom apartment in the heart of Santa Croce. First floor, 700 square feet, quiet, 3 day Yoga Residential Retreat with Joann Connington, 28-31 October sleeps 4, full kitchen/dining, large sofa bed, WI-FI, huge flat screen TV. 2017, Villa Boccella, Lucca. www.tuscanyartsandhealing.com for info Available Dec. & Jan. Min 5 night stay, $85/n. Pictures available. No pets. and bookings or email Jane on [email protected] / +39 Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 1164) 345 3140844. (Ref. 1182)

Private Italian classes Italian woman, speaks fluent English, offers individual/group lessons. Beginners, intermediate, advanced. Help with

Accountant Paola Girolami (Universities of Pisa and Bristol). Via Delle interpreting and assistance with relocating. Can travel from Lucca. Anna Ville 354/A, Lucca. Tel 0583 471734, fax 0583 952349. Cell. 347 9194155 [email protected] (Ref. 267)

Translations Italian to English and English to Italian by experienced mother-tongue translators. Contact Grapevine (Ref. 817)Spoken English private lessons. Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 1183)

Dental Surgeon Dr. Rogier Staal (University of Amsterdam). Via Farnesi 25a, Lucca. Tel and fax 0583 953633. Dutch/English/Italian/French/ German. [email protected]

Lawyer Ilaria Cipriani (Anglo/Italian). Via Nottolini 733, 55100 Lucca. Tel. 0583 1892444, fax 0583 1770173. [email protected]

Landscape design & Garden maintenance [email protected] UK TV in Italy, all UK channels from £11.99 a month. 14 day catch-up. – www.luccalandscape.it Tommaso cell. (+39) 349 284 5399. (Ref. 572) Let us show you how! Contact Grapevine for referral. (Ref 1142)

Miss Penny Apple Vintage Tea Party. Catering or, on the 2nd & 4th Saturday each month (3.30 pm), at Villa Claudia, Forte dei Marmi. On Facebook. or at [email protected] (Ref. 1160)

Accountants Vannucci & Associates. Viale San Concordio 710, 55100 Lucca. Tel. +39 0583 316636, fax: +39 0583 419451, email [email protected] - www.vannuccieassociati.it (Ref. 1103)Dental Surgeon Dr. Barbato & Dr. Cumbo. Via Fillungo 91, 55100 Lucca. Tel 0583 492853.Dental Surgeon Dr. Carlo G.F. Martini. Via Romana 231, 55100 Lucca. Tel 0583 467975, [email protected]

Lawyer Alberto Del Carlo. Admitted to the Italian High Courts, Piazzale Ricasoli, 241 – 55100 Lucca. Tel. 0583 494952, fax 0583 492352. email [email protected] In the real estate field, Mr. Del Carlo is in strict connection with surveyors (geometri) who speak English fluently.

Lawyer Enrico Del Buono - Lucca, Via San Marco, 584 - Viareggio, Via IV Novembre, 107 - Montecatini Terme, Via Maona 7. Tel. 0583 587532, cell. 347 2232535, [email protected]

In Lucca, experience Holistic Bodywork, Foot Reflexology, Somatic Education, Postoperative Support, Scar Tissue Rebalancing and Traumatic Stress Neurophysiological Regulation sessions (English/Italian). Mery Di Milia, tel. 342 0311888, [email protected], http://linkedin.com/in/merydimilia (Ref. 1176)Removals Local, National, European and International relocation service. Servicing the UK with regular trips every 2-3 weeks. Full professional packing & export wrapping service. Friendly, experienced, professional Kiwi service. Contact Richard at [email protected] or 340 8748222. (Ref. 771)

VARIOUS

U.S. TAX RETURNS FOR AMERICANS IN ITALY

Alexander v.Pinoci PAAL SERVICES USA, LLC (UStaxItaly)

email: [email protected] pec: [email protected]

Website: http://www.ustaxitaly.com/

Michigan USA tel: +1-808-316-0719

Rome ITALY tel: +39-06.9294.7508

cell: +39-328.162.0531 fax: +39-06.233.241.949

Via di Tiglio, 1697/l - 55100 San Filippo Lucca (LU)Tel. 0583 954 652 fax 0583 050 025

[email protected] - [email protected]

[email protected]

www.imislabels.it

trilingual (French, English, Italian),

for private & public engagements, lessons.

[email protected]. 333 8617962

HARPIST

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