The magazine for those who live in Tuscany – or wish they did

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GRAPEVINEGRAPEVINEMAGAZINE

TUSCANY’S

52nd Season - 2016Ticket prices: Full: € 12; Reduced: € 10Info: Associazione Musicale LuccheseVia San Micheletto, 3 - 55100 Lucca tel. and fax 0583 469960

Sunday

Dedicated to Luigi BoccheriniALAIN MEUNIER cello

QUARTETTO NOUS strings

Tiziano Baviera violin

Alberto Franchin violin

Sara Dambruoso viola

Tommaso Tesini cello

Sunday

Dedicated to Luigi BoccheriniGIOVANNI SOLLIMA cello

with Simone Soldati* piano

Sunday

Gaetano Giani Luporini and his artMusic, 2eatre, Poetry, Painting

By Fabrizio Giovannelli

MIRELLA DI VITA soprano

GIAMPAOLO BANDINI guitar,

ALBERTO BOLOGNI, CRISTINA PAPINI violins

CLAUDIO VALENTI, TOMMASO VALENTI violas

CARLO BENVENUTI cello

GABRIELE FERDEGHINI cello

FABRIZIO GIOVANNELLI piano

MASSIMO VIGANÒ actor

Literary consulting by Fabrizio Guidotti

Sunday

GIUSEPPE ALBANESE piano

Sunday

LAURA MARZADORI violin

LEONORA ARMELLINI piano

Sunday

“...il migliore dei cuori, tu, Clara.” Robert Schumann to Clara Wieck

MATTEO FOSSI piano

QUARTETTO SAVINIO strings

Alberto Maria Ruta violin

Rossella Bertucci violin

Francesco Solombrino viola

Lorenzo Ceriani cello

Sunday

Schubert, Winter journey SANDRO CAPPELLETTOdramaturgy and narrative voice

MARCELLO NARDIS tenor

SIMONE SOLDATI piano

ASSOCIAZIONE MUSICALE LUCCHESE

onlus

CONCERTSIstituto Musicale «Luigi Boccherini» Auditorium - 5.00 p.m.

Media partners

Rai RadioAmadeus

In collaboration with

ContentsDirettore ResponsabileGiuseppe Brandani

EditorNorma Jean Bishop

ContributorsHelen AskhamAnna BenedettoSimonetta BiagiNorma Jean BishopLinda BocciaJoe BottoneClaudia CasoliDavid CollinsDebra HillDebra KolkkaManish Kumar AroraJennifer MilvertonNigel NortonDaniele PagnoFrancis PettittCarlo PuccinelliDee SchafferJenny SchutzMarcella SmithMaria Tuttovino

Cover:

View of the Paniafrom Renaio (Barga)

by Simone Rabassini

Tuscany’s Grapevine Magazine Via Selve, 7 Bagni Caldi 55022 Bagni di Lucca (Lucca). Mobile +39 333 8617962 - editor@luccagrapevine.com - www.luccagrapevine.com P. IVA 02416230460 Printed by Myck Press srl Calcinaia (PI). Iscrizione CCIAA - LU 223932. Articles/photos for consideration may be submitted to the editors. © Tuscany’s Grapevine Magazine - © What’s On In & Around

The listings published in Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith. However, to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information before setting off. Signed articles do not necessarily reflect the views of the Editors or of the Direttore Responsabile.

hile the cold winter keeps W some of us quietly at home by the fire, others, well equipped, have faced its challenges. Just look at the snowshoer on our cover page! Inevitably, though, time passes and we begin to see signs of spring. In Tuscany, the winters are mild and the skies are almost always blue. Flowers begin to brighten the landscape. Daffodils, irises, and even rosy camellias are now budding!

As a writer I crave the nocturnal stillness for writing and thinking…. Turning inward, I often find inspiration, or reflections on the past and on my current situation. Despite the challenges that each day brings, I feel peaceful living in this place, with its simple beauties and pleasures: the eloquence of the Italian language, the taste of a morning cappuccino, a simple plate of pasta with garlic and fresh olive oil, the quick surprise of a neighbor's gangly young Labrador arriving joyously at my door and bounding into the kitchen.

I turn again to a poem sent to us from the American Southwest, by Joe Bottone:

There is another lifebetween night and 3 a.m., thenthe red dawn Aurora

comes showy over the green hillswithout time to worry overand pleasure to choose such wordsand say, this life

while I remain – red terra-cotta roof tiles, slope,moss covered, & if I should lookwithinlight beings, angels, and the dark beetend to the heart of my hidden garden.

Was that Labrador with its wide-mouthed grin a light being come to care for my hidden garden?

May you find happiness, useful infor-mation and inspiration in this issue of Grapevine, and in the world around you!

– Norma Jean Bishop, Editor

Art/Music/Beauty

Traditions & History

Seen from Abroad

Day Tripping

Practical

February Events

Bilingual CrosswordManish’s Zodiacal Predictions Pinocchio Puzzle SolutionClassified AdvertisingEnglish Speaking Professionals

Floriano Bodini: sculptures, drawings, etchings 5A Valentine Concert from the AML 7The Baby Backstage 21

From Bagni di Lucca to Auschwitz 6Lucca’s Role in Creating an Empire 7Carnival in Viareggio 1873-1998 9A Typical Day in Lucca 10

Fan Letter 4Italians and Umbrellas 10Oil and Wine Intertwine in California 19Tuscan Tradition in a Texan Heart 20

Pistoia, Cultural Capital of Italy for 2017 8

Business Networking in Lucca 22Getting Things Done 23Tip of the Month 23Smelly Matters 24

11-18Markets, Museums & Monuments, VenuesWhat's On: Music, Art & ExhibitionsTraditions, Sagras, Sports, Children, Cinema, Conferences

25

18

25

26

27

2016February

3

Editorial

Pisa Airport Fornoli, Cartolibreria Serra

· · Bagni di Lucca, Edicola Punto Sma

· Barga Sotto, Poli · San Marco, San Marco PressPisa Town Center · Segromigno, Lazzereschi (Villa Torrigiani)· Barga Vecchia, Nardini

· Corso Italia (corner Via del Carmine)· Ponte all'Ania, Bertoncini

· Piazza dei Cavalieri (Scuola Normale)· Train Station Edicola Ale’· Castelnuovo Garfagnana, Magnani, · Costanzi, Borgo Stretto 115 · Piazzale Ricasoli, Tourist Center

Via Farini· Fatima, Via Santa Maria · LuccaLibri Libreria-Caffè Letterario, Viale Regina Margherita 113

· Coselli, Franchi Miria· Guamo, Luchi Moira (Sottopoggio)

· Viareggio, Marine Store, Via Coppino 421 · Cartoleria Santori, Via Fillungo 225 · San Concordio, Edicolè· Pietrasanta, Giuntini (Piazza Principale) · San Lorenzo, La Perla (Via per Pisa)· Martini, Via Fillungo 138· Tonfano, Libreria Tonacchera, Via Versilia 6 · San Leonardo in Treponzio Il Pennarello · Lorenzini, Via Fillungo 16

(Via di Tiglio)· Betti, Via Veneto 43· Camaiore, Dalle Luche Daniela, Via di Mezzo· Corsi, Piazza Napoleone 5· Forte dei Marmi, Borri, Piazza Garibaldi · Arancio, Baldassari, Via Pesciatina· Edicola Souvenir, Via S. Paolino 54 · Montecarlo, Edicola Denis (Via Roma)

In the Mountains · Pescia, Alma, Piazza principale·· La Medica, Via Vittorio Veneto 11

· Monsagrati, La Coccinella (Strada per · De Lillo, Via V. Emanuele 40 WestCamaiore) · Borgo Giannotti, Giannecchini· Pantera-Brancoli, Via Beccheria 9

· La Cappella, Viani (Strada per Camaiore) · Sant'Alessio, Gamon & Co.· Vitale, Via Calderia· Ponte a Moriano, Orlandi (Piazza Principale)

AND at· Gallacci, Piazza dei Cocomeri· Diecimo (Borgo a Mozzano), Guidi Benito

(where you can also order an on-line· Cerboncini, Via Santa Croce 45Fabrizio (Via S. Quasimodo 26)· EXP+ courier service, Via Elisa 45· Borgo a Mozzano, Centro Ufficio

(shopping center, near Penny Market) · Il Giornalaio, Piazza San Francesco

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ER My wife wanted to renew my subscription for Christmas because she knows how much I love your magazine and she said it's cheaper to get my Tuscany fix with Lucca Grapevine than with a vacation. It's funny you mentioned Fosco Picchi because we met his wife Marjorie in 2013, while visiting Piazza di Brancoli, and became friends. We just visited her at her home in June, right before she returned to the US. I just contacted one of her daughters yesterday to get her updated contact information.

Thank you very much for your magazine. My wife read your caption “The magazine for those who live in Tuscany – or wish they did” and says it describes me perfectly.

Keep up the great work and I will continue to live vicariously through your magazine, until my next trip back to Italy.

– Chris Cecchettini

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine February 2016 4

Floriano Bodini Sculptures, drawings, engravings

s part of a series of exhibitions organized by the Foundation since 2008, this year begins with a sculture exhibition A dedicated to Floriano Bodini, inaugurated

on 24 January.Bodini, from Lombardy, belonged to a group of

young Milanese artists (along with Guerreschi, Vaglieri, Romagnoni, Ceretti, Ferroni and Banchieri), identified with the term Existential Realism. Their works expressed existential discomfort and anxiety, especially in their portraiture, of great expressiveness and dramatic force.

The exhibition in Lucca, curated by Flavio Arensi and Nicola Loi, together with Maria Stuarda Varetti, coordinator of events for the Foundation, brings together an important representation of Bodini's sculptures. It has been prepared in collaboration with the Floriano Bodini Civic Museum of Gemonio, the Copernico Studio of Milano and the Bodini Archive of Milano, with the sponsorship of the Town of Gemonio.

Floriano Bodini was born in Gemonio, in Varese Province, in 1933. He attended the Art Academy of Brera under the guidance of Francesco Messina. Then he taught at the Carrara Art Academy, where he was director until 1987 and president from Santa Casa di Loreto sanctuary, the marble monument to the 1991 to 1994. He also taught at the Darmstadt (Germany) Fallen at Work for the City of Carrara, the main altar of the Politecnico of Architecture from 1987 to 1998. Sanctuary at Rho, the altars for the Vatican Grottos at St. Peter's in

In 1962 Bodini was invited to Venice's 31st Biennale, where he Rome, the flight of the dove (in bronze) for the AGIP headquarters displayed seven of his works. Six years later he exhibited his of S. Donato Milanese, the monument to Stradivarius at sculpture Portrait of a Pope (in stone pine, Pinus cembra), which Cremona, the bronze complex of the Göthingen Seven for attracted enormous attention and was placed in the Vatican Parliament Square in Hannover, the Holy Gate for S. Giovanni in Museums. Laterano Basilica in Rome, the Eucarist altar at San Giovanni

Beginning in 1970, after his works in wood and bronze he Rotondo in the architectural complex of Renzo Piano, and the expanded his research to the use of marble, an essential material Monument to Paolo VI in the Nervi Room of the Vatican.for the cycle of large public works that he began in the 1980s. The Floriano Bodini Civic Museum was inaugurated in 1999 at

He first worked in studios in Carrara, then in Viggiù. Among his Gemonio, with a donation of works by Bodini and his monumental works is the Monument in Marble to Virgilio of contemporaries and a substantial collection of books.Brindisi, the bronze of Paolo VI of Sacro Monte di Varese, the Bodini died in Milano on 2 July 2005. On 2 November 2007 main altar of Varese's Cathedral, the monument to Cardinal Milan confered upon him the honour of a Famedio (Memorial Ferrari for Parma's Cathedral, the main altar complex for the Chapel) at the Monumental Cemetery.

The exhibition at the Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca

Palazzo delle Esposizioni (piazza San Martino, 7, Lucca) will remain open until 6 March,

with the following hours: daily 3pm to 7pm,

Saturday & Sunday mornings 10am to 1pm & afternoons from 3pm to 7pm.

www.fondazionebmlucca.it

The first exhibition

for the great 19th century

artist, ten years after his death

Bodini with gessoes of the monument to quarriers at Gemonio museum

Bodini works on the head of Sughi for the Seven of Göttingen

5Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine February 2016

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine February 2016 6 Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine February 2016 6

From Bagni di Lucca to Auschwitz

agni di Lucca was not to the victims of the Shoah. exempted from the worst It's below the main station horrors of the last war. platforms and can be en-B Although it narrowly tered from a side door.

avoided being bombed to smither- Figures show that 7,680 eens, it became one of two 'collecting Jewish people were de-centres' (the other being at Socciglia ported to the death camps, where a memorial stone marks the over 17% of the total place) for undesirable members of the Italian Jewish population

human race, which 99% of the time meant those of Jewish descent. – a relatively low (!) per-Under the abomination of the racial laws promulgated by centage when one considers that 85% of the Jewish population in

Mussolini in 1938, Jews were marginalised by Italian society into Lithuania were exterminated.what became ghettos. The 'Regio Decreto 17 Novembre 1938 Nr. To return to Bagni di Lucca: some of those deported died on the 1728' minimized civil rights for Jews, excluded them from schools, train journey to Auschwitz, crammed like sardines into cattle forbade them to hold any public office, greatly limited their travel, trucks. Angela Ferrari, for example died aged just 26. The number stripped them of their property and assets. Eventually, at the height would have been much higher had it not been for Don Arturo Paoli of the Italian civil war of 1943-45 (when the partisans and allied who only died last July aged 102 and who is on that great list of 'the forces fought against the puppet 'social republic' of Salò set up by just of all nations'. It is my eternal regret that I only found out Hitler under the pretended governorship of Mussolini, 'rescued' recently about this man from Lucca who collaborated bravely with from imprisonment at the Gran Sasso rifugio), people of Jewish DELASEM, the Jewish resistance movement, to save over 800 origin were rounded up and incarcerated in local concentration Jews in this part of Italy from entering the extermination camps.camps to await their transportation to the death factories of Among the five from Bagni di Lucca who survived was Leo Auschwitz-Birkenau, Mauthausen and Belzec. Urbach who had to suffer the loss of his wife and two children –

To the honour of the vast majority of the Italian people the laws Liliana (aged 15 months) and Kurt (aged 5 years) – before were unpopular and even prominent fascists like Italo Balbo opposed Auschwitz was liberated by Russian troops on 27 January 1945. them. Italy's Jewish population had lived in the country for centuries Liliana, born in Bagni di Lucca in October 1942, was taken from and were fully integrated in community life. Merely thinking at there to Milan on 23 January 1943. On 30 January she left Binario 21 random of some great Jewish Italians one recalls the names of Rita at Milan station, reached Auschwitz-Birkenau on February 7th 1943 Levi-Montalcini, Italo Svevo, Lorenzo da Ponte, Natalia Ginzburg, with her family and died on 19 February 1944. There was one witness Anna Magnani, Vittorio Gassman and Castelnuovo-Tedesco to be to their leaving Bagni di Lucca, a little girl who later recollected: I fully aware of the incredibly high contribution this community has just remember that it was cold and they had few clothes on, all in dark made to the enrichment of Italian life and culture. By 1943, however, colours…. The soldiers had taken their clothes and they were now Italy was in the grip of teutonic brutality and effectively in the hands leading the children, dragging them by holding their little hands.of field marshal Kesselring. What memorials are there to the Shoah as experienced by Bagni

The concentration camp for Bagni di Lucca was situated in the now di Lucca? In Fornoli there's the peace park with its memorial to derelict and crumbling walls of the old Hotel delle Terme behind the little Liliana, inaugurated in 1999. It's next to the primary school church of San Martino, above the present Hotel delle Terme. Three where in all probability Liliana would have gone had she lived. In children, Luciana, Paolo and Liliana, with an added-up age of less the park there was this graffiti scrawled over a water pump box: than three years, were the first to be killed, along with another 30 Amor Vincit Omnia (Love conquers all). Behind it is the old Ponte children and teenagers upon arrival at Auschwitz. They died in front delle Catene over the Lima, built by the great Nottolini in the 19th of their parents, grandparents, uncles, aunts and cousins. In all, the century. Both it and the graffiti had a message to say about loving total number at Bagni di Lucca taken to the extermination factories each other and building bridges.was 112. Only five managed to return to Italy alive. And yet the killing, worse, the genocide, still goes on: by fanatics

The Bagni di Lucca Konzentrationslager contained not just just across the sea from us and by the sea itself. Since last year over people from Bagni di Lucca but also from many other parts of Italy. 3,000 people, including a shamefully large number of children, The prisoners stayed there for six months without proper food, no have drowned while trying to cross the Mediterranean in boats heating and few clothes and passed one of the hardest winters the handled by unscrupulous people-smugglers.area has ever suffered. Meanwhile, the sinister and decrepit façade of the old Hotel delle

Taking photographs of the derelict hotel, I had to be very careful Terme has nothing to show on it that this was the last sight many to avoid things falling on top of me. If you ever go there do wear a people would have had of their beloved families and their beautiful hard hat and watch out for the rotten trapdoors leading to the cellars country. This, in my opinion, is a scandal that must be rectified as and hidden under the foliage. You might fall a long way down. soon as possible. Here is a building that, more than any other in this

I wonder: with a history like that, would anyone want to buy it up area, witnessed man's brutality to man, and people pass by it and restore it? Perhaps it should be left as it is as a memorial to some without realizing what purpose it was used for. A memorial plaque very dark years at Bagni di Lucca. Tangible feelings of a terrible should be placed on it now because if we don't remember… evil and of a great sadness almost overpowered me there. Resurrection's castle

The prisoners from the ex-albergo were transported by train to is a heap of crumbling concreteLucca and thence to Florence. From Florence they went to Milan

(from a poem written when I motor-biked to Auschwitz-Birkenau in 2001)where they were housed in that city's notorious San Vittore prison near Piazza Aquileia. They were then taken to Milan central station where they left for the gas chambers from the infamous 'Binario 21' You can follow Francis Pettitt’s blog at (platform 21), still there to this day and now turned into a monument http://longoio2.wordpress.com

January 27 is Holocaust Remembrance Day

Lucca's Role in Creating the Roman Empire

ven today the Triumvirate held in Lucca while Caesar would obtain the renewal of his in 56 B.C.E. is considered one of the governance over the Gauls for another five years. most important events in the city's This allowed the great warrior to acquire even E history, both for the political and more prestige and force, so that when the time

military power of the protagonists and for our was right he could present himself as the ideal understanding of how important and well- figure in his political scheme to be nominated established Lucca was at the time of pre- Emperor with the full acclaim of the populace. imperial Rome. Why did he choose Lucca for this meeting? A

law of the Republic prohibited anyone with The protagonists were Caio Giulio Cesare, armed men from crossing the line that stretched

Gneo Pompeo and Marco Licinio Crasso – three from the river Serchio to the river Rubicon. This of the most significant personalities in Rome at law was violated by Caesar himself seven years that time. Caesar himself wanted the meeting, later in 49 B.C.E. when he crossed the Rubicon with officially to reach an agreement with Pompeo and his army, pronouncing his historic phrase Alea iacta Crasso about a pact of alliance that would make them est (the die is cast), in the sense that the decision had invincible against the other political factions. been taken to march on Rome.

Caesar, though, had already envisioned a form of Caesar in fact never become the first emperor, because of government, both for himself and for Rome, that would be quite the plot to which he fell victim in 44 B.C.E. He was an emperor different from the republican one. Thanks to the success of its only in a symbolic way, so that we now link the name Caesar with military campaigns, its extension over conquered territories and the word dictator. From his name we derive the words Czar in its great administrative and logistic capacities, Rome needed a Russian and Kaiser in German.more authoritative and incisive central power. It had to create an – by Carlo Puccinelliempire guided by an emperor.

The agreement reached by the members of the first Triumvirate Editor's note: Cisalpine Gaul lay between the Alps and the at Lucca had that very aim: Pompeo and Crasso would be Apennines; the Rubicon and the Serchio (then referred to as the accorded the consolate, in other words ruling power in Rome, Auser) would have marked the limits of the Roman Republic.

Concerts for Music Loversfrom the Associazione Musicale Lucchese

Leonora Armellini (piano) offer us Mendelssohn and Beethoven. Then on March 13 the Savinio String Quartet and Matteo Fossi (piano) will bring us the music of Schumann and his dearest, Clara Wieck.

An especially stellar musical event will be the Valentine's Day concert on February 14, featuring composer and cellist Giovanni Sollima (photo), with AML's Simone Soldati at the piano. Sollima is an artist of incredible scope and

is offering a series of Sunday afternoon concerts at the L. courage. He has collaborated with top-notch musicians such Boccherini Auditorium in Piazza del Suffragio. What a as Yo-Yo Ma and Phillip Glass, with dancer/choreographer T perfect way to usher in springtime! Karole Armitage, with film and theatre directors Peter

There is a richness of choice for music lovers, beginning with the Greenaway and Bob Wilson, with American poet and February 7th concert dedicated to Boccherini and Schubert performed musician Patti Smith, and many more. His musical by Alain Meunier (cello) and the Nous String Quartet, and ending on innovations and compositions range from Jurassic to Metal. March 20 with Schubert's Winter Journey, a narrative for voice, tenor He has been referred to as a post-minimalist. And on top of and piano – when we certainly hope to find Winter far behind our all this, he teaches at Santa Cecilia in Rome and the backs! On February 21, Fabrizio Giovannelli will coordinate a program Romanini Foundation in Brescia. This concert is an event of music, theatre, poetry and painting dedicated to Lucchese not to be missed, with music composed by J. S. Bach, L. artist/composer Gaetano Giani Luporini. On February 28 we can enjoy Boccherini, Beethoven, and yes, Giovanni Sollima. an afternoon of Liszt with Giuseppe Albanese at the piano, while the following Sunday the lovely musicians Laura Marzadori (violin) and See page 2 for programme details

he Associazione Musicale Lucchese, now in its 52nd season,

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine February 2016 7

aking the train from Lucca to Firenze, unless we are blues fans we are likely to overlook one of Tuscany's sweetest secrets, Pistoia. Part of the town’s fascination lies underground. A subter-T ranean archeological zone, 700 meters long and accessible via

the ancient Ospedale del Ceppo, can be visited by reservation, revealing amazing walls and arches, ancient millworks, bridges and canals that fur-nished water to medieval wash-houses and pre-industrial businesses.

Pistoia has been selected over nine other Italian towns (Aquileia, Como, Herculaneum, Parma, Pisa, Pistoia, Spoleto, Taranto, Terni) as the 2017 Italian Cultural Capital, following Ravenna in 2015 and Mantova (Virgil's birthplace) in 2016. Pistoia's mayor says that the town invests more than double the national average in culture. One project is to turn the Ospedale del Ceppo – which dates from medieval times but was renovated by the Medici during the Renaissance – into a cultural center. The city also plans to restore its fortified walls, prepare bike paths, and develop its modern art museum.

The Cathedral, St. Zeno, has a 67 meter Romanesque belfry. Its octagonal 14th-century Baptistery is striped in grey and white marble.

Poet and jurist Guittoncino dei Sighibuldi has a tomb in the Cathedral. I wish I’d been a fly on the wall when “Cino” was Dante's friend and a precursor to Petrarch, famous for the lofty romanticism of his dolce stil novo.

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine February 2016 8

Pistoia, Italy®s Cultural Capital for 2017 Day Tripping

And

rea

Stai

er

Jord

i S

aval

lPistoia's Chamber Music Society

has planned a “Magical” program of music from various cultures, eras, continents and styles, to be held in the lovely Saloncino della Musica in Palazzo De'Rossi, Via De'Rossi 26, on 6 February. Artistic Director Massimo Caselli says the selections will emphasize the therapeutic and thaumaturgical (miraculous) powers of both popu-lar and classical music.

The season’s ticket prices are decidedly “popular”, ranging from €3 to €20 for individual concerts and €10 to €120 for subscriptions.

Tel. 0573 974249 (Mondays/ Wednesdays/Fridays 9am to 1pm)

or consult www.fondazionepromusica.it

German forte-pianist Andrea Staier performs with violinist Isabelle Faust on 23 February. Jordi Savall, from Spain, plays Middle Eastern music dedicated to Istanbul on 8 May.

See our “What's On” calendar for more information.

photo by Debra Kolkka

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From the Grapevine Archives: An insight into the spirit of the past

tarting on February 8th for four consecutiveSundays a spectacular parade of massive floats will make its way slowly along theSseafront in Viareggio. These astounding structures, made basically of a papier mache

superstructure on a metal skeleton, are constructed throughout the year in hangars near the port. The craft of float construction, in fact, had its origins in boat-building.

In the early days of Viareggio carnival, the floats were pulled by robust oxen, lent for the occasion by the marble quarrymen of the nearby Apuan Alps. Nowadays, less romantically, the floats are pulled by tractors. A lot of imagination and technical ability goes into the construction of the floats but what characterises them above all is their satire and wit.

The photographs show the designs for some of the year's floats.

This float (1) is called Ma che male Vi fo! which translates roughly as But what harm am I doing you? It is a play on the word fo, which is Florentine for I am doing or I do, and Fo as in actor and writer Dario Fo. Probably more appreciated outside Italy than in it, Dario Fo was the controversial winner of the 1998 Nobel Prize for Literature. His plays and shows have frequently attacked the Catholic Church, the political Right and the Establishment in general. The float shows Fo as a kind of court jester surrounded by joyful figures from the Italian commedia dell 'arte, whilst the disapproving owls of the literary and academic world look on. (Design: Silvano and Alessandro Avanzini).

Ldiscussion in Italy. Too many cases have remained unsolved in recent years, such as the bomb attacks in Piazza Fontana in Milan and at the Stazione Centrale in Bologna, as well as the apparent shooting down by a missile of a civilian flight over Ustica (near Palermo).

This float (2), entitled Giustizia è fatta and designed by Roberto Alessandrini, shows the President of the Republic, Scalfaro, trying to balance law books with backhanders, while behind him political power is weighed between Massimo D'Alema (leader of the Partito Democratico della Sinistra) and Silvio Berlusconi (media mogul leader of Forza Italia).

This float (3) by Simone Politi is called Uno per tutti, tutti per uno or All for one and one for all. The leaders of Italy's three main political parties (from left to right – in the picture but not in politics – Gianfranco Fini of Alleanza Nazionale, Silvio Berlusconi of Forza Italia and Massimo D' Alema of the P.D.S.) are shown here as united in their battle to keep their own power by trying to eliminate all those who get in their way. Bossi (of the Lega Nord separatist party) is on the end of Fini 's sword, Borrelli (chief state prosecutor) is on Berlusconi's sword, while Bertinotti (of Rifondazione Comunista) has been speared by D' Alema. In the meantime Scalfaro, President of the Republic but shown here as the King of Italian Politics, looks on in amusement.

This float (4) designed by Emilio Cinquini is inspired by one of the most popular films at the box office this year in Italy, Il Ciclone starring Leonardo Pieraccioni. The real cyclone, however, on this float is Cecchi Gori, the man who has revolutionised film distribution in Italy, so that no room has been left for any of his competitors. The actors in the film Il Ciclone are shown here as the geese that lay the golden eggs for Cecchi Gori. (The symbol on his shirt is from the Fiorentina football team, which he owns too.)

Finally, we have Il Bandolero Stanco (5) designed by Enrico Vanucci. The Polo government, which included Berlusconi's party Forza Italia and Fini's Alleanza Nationale as well as the CCD and CDU (two parties which emerged from the ex-Christian Democrats) has failed, leaving the way open for the Ulivo tribe made up of a coalition led by the independent Romano Prodi and including D'Alema's PDS, the PPI, Rinnovamento Italiano and the Verdi (Greens). Bertinotti's Rifondazione Comunista is not part of the Ulivo. But the chiefs are finding it hard to realize their ideals – an improved pensions system, better health service and fairer taxes – hampered as they are by the constant bickering between the PDS and their lefter cousins Rifondazione Comunista and by the rush to get Italy into the single European currency.

– from Grapevine's Archives,February 1998

The heads of Indian chief Massimo D’Alema and Cecchi Gori under construction.

th(ed. note: in 2016 on February 7 ),

(ed. note: 1998)

ately the question of justice and its administration have been at the centre of political

CARNIVAL 2016 This year’s celebrations will take place at 3pm on

Sundays 7/14/21/28 February & 6.30pm on Saturday 5 March. Fireworks follow the parades on

7 & 14 February and 5 March.

1998 FACTS

Number of floats:

141

Cost per float: from 66 to 129

million lire1

Average weight: 35 tons

1

Construction time:

4 months

1

2

3

4

5

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine February 2016 9

Carnival in Viareggio 1873-1998

Italians and Umbrellas

A Typical Day in Lucca

ver seen an Italian without an umbrella when it's raining or threatening to do so? Even when the rain is little more than a drizzle you can bet that each and every Italian will be armed with an umbrella. You don't need to check E the weather forecast in the morning; one has only to look outside and see if

the next passerby is armed with an umbrella. Ladies will park their car as close as pos-sible to the shop, mounting the pavement, bridging zebra crossings. Even then they will try to open their umbrella inside the car prior to getting out of the car. It's quite an art but many seem to have mastered the technique.

Every shop possesses an umbrella stand which is usually packed tight with umbrellas of every colour and style. It makes you wonder whether many have been discarded after being turned inside out by a heavy gust of wind or simply collapsed following a coming together with a fellow pedestrian. I have often wondered what happens to the millions of broken umbrellas. Many are discarded by the roadside; others are simply thrown into the flower beds whilst some are left on the bus or train like the many un-roadworthy bicycles left rusting at the railway stations.

If heaven forbid the umbrella is left in the parked car then the lady will insist her husband returns to the car before she will step a foot outside. Ok I know this obses-sion with the umbrella is not limited to females but it does seem to be a part of their make-up. Maybe men feel they will not look butch carrying one or maybe the ladies take particular attention with their hair, which is evident by the number of parrucchiere shops around. Dread the thought of it getting wet and falling out of shape! However, I think it is more than this. I think the Italians simply hate getting wet. Rain is alien to them and should be restricted to the northern climes. You would have thought with all the olive oil they consume that water would have little or no effect on them and would simply run off like water on a duck's back.

One day not too long ago I had a punctured tyre on my car and during the thirty minutes it took me to change over the wheel it started to rain; only a light drizzle mind you. I thought nothing of it, but from nowhere a lady appeared armed with an umbrella – of course on her way to the shops. She stood alongside me and covered my crouched body with her umbrella for the remaining ten minutes it took me to complete the work. That would certainly not have happened in the UK. Possibly that's because the Brits are not as considerate or possibly because they, like me, would have been of the opinion that the rain was the least of my problems. More likely, however, is that none of the passers-by would have possessed an umbrella.

– by Nigel Norton

t’s 6.30am. I open my eyes. It's dawn. In the dark I search for slippers that I don't find, then barefoot and tripping I go into the bathroom. Around me my usual things reassure me. 7.30am. I Breakfast is a ritual. Moka is the rule, cappuccino at a bar the

exception. A quick shower and then I go out and into town. My town is small, middle-class, precious, its inhabitants somewhat indolent, almost never too busy. They walk, they move by bicycle, and often I see them chatting among themselves, stopping in the middle of the street without paying attention to the little buses that ask for the way. Signora, move over. I have to pass, someone yells. Hey! What's the hurry….

And then … I go onto the walls. Ah! What is this stroll for us Lucchesi? Into the greenery we go as couples, alone, with children, in groups. And we talk … we talk and we walk, while the youngest run. We can't do without this stroll, almost maniacal for some but for everyone a great relaxation, anti-stress, and healthy. And we have always done this, even the tourists when they are here. Afterwards we return home and we feel better. 12.30 am, I return home and my day continues on its way.

This is my reflection about the city where I have always lived.

And yours? How do you experience life where you live?

– by Simonetta Biagi

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine February 2016

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MarketsGeneral markets Books and prints Pescia 4th SundayLucca, Via Bacchettoni Wed & Sat a.m. Lucca, Corte del Biancone Daily Querceta Saturday morningsLucca, Piazza S. Francesco 2nd Sunday of month.Lucca, Piazza del Carmine Monday to Saturday Antiques Arts & CraftB. Giannotti, Foro Boario Sat a.m. Lucca 3rd Sat/Sunday Lucca, Piazza San Giusto last Sat/SundayS. Maria a Colle Thurs a.m.

Altopascio 2nd Sunday Marina di Pietrasanta Wednesday afternoonsPonte a Moriano Tues a.m.

Montecarlo 2nd Sunday Castelnuovo Garfagnana 1st weekend of the monthS. Maria del Giudice Mon a.m.Forte dei Marmi 1st Sat/Sunday Pieve Fosciana last SundayPietrasanta Thurs a.m.Pietrasanta 1st SundayMarina di Pietrasanta Sat a.m.Barga 2nd Sunday Plants and flowersTonfano Sat a.m.

Castelnuovo Garfagnana Thurs a.m. Viareggio 4th Sat/Sunday Lucca, Corso Garibaldi Friday mornings

Pescia Sat a.m. Bientina 4th Sat/Sunday Pietrasanta 3rd Sunday

FOLD-OUT EVENTS CALENDAR

WHAT’S ONWHAT’S ON IN & AROUNDIN & AROUND

TRADITIONS, FAIRS, SPORTS, OUTDOORS CONFERENCES & COURSES

CHILDREN

COMING UP

CINEMA

San Valentino, 14 February. AGORÀ LIBRARY (Piazza dei Servi), Lucca. Open Mon 2pm-7pm, Tues-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-1pm. Videoteca

Carnival, celebrated everywhere in different ways, Tues/Thurs 3pm-6pm, Sat 10am-12.30pm. ranging from children’s processions in towns like Marlia Archivio di Stato di Lucca, Piazza Guidiccioni. La to neighborhood parties & satirical floats in Viareggio famiglia Sardi: Come si conquista e mantiene una parading along the Lungomare (Sunday afternoons in posizione sociale. Archivist Beppe Nelli. 20 Feb. February: see article on page 9). Costumed children will 10.30am. Reservations: 328 8396739.be playing in all the main squares of Italy.

Lucca, Cathedral Museum offers itinerant conferences in Italian. 5 Feb., Il marmo racconta with Claudia Nardini. 12 Feb., Personaggi illustri nel Loggiato del Palazzo Pretorio with Carlo Rossi. 19 Feb., Frammenti di storia Pietrasanta, San Biagio Festival. First weekend of lucchese attraverso le lapidi e I monumenti funebri della February. Traditional blessing of the throat at the chiesa dei SS. Giovanni e Reparata with Carlo Rossi. Duomo, with a large street market & fair throughout the Starting from the Oratorio di San Giuseppe in Piazza town. Info: 0584 795234, 0584 283284.Antelminelli, 4.30pm. €5 per session. Reservations 0583 490530, didattica@museocattedralelucca.itNature walks with E. Lunardi Amici della Montagna €15

membership), throughout the year 2-3 times per month. Lucca, Biblioteca Statale, Saloni Monumentali. 5pm 19 Leaving from the group headquarters at circoscrizione

n. 3, via Einaudi, S. Anna. 7 Feb. La Via dell’Ardesia Oct. to 22 Feb. Vaghe stelle dell’Orsa. Readings of (Lavagna), tel. 339 8942874. 21 Feb. Punto Ala, Cala Giacomo Leopardi.Violina, tel. 347 2612343. amicidellamontagna@alice.it www.amicidellamontagna.lucca.it

Bagni di Lucca Street fair & market. Handicrafts, an- Camellia Festival at Sant’Andrea & Pieve di Compito. tiques, collectibles for sale or exchange. 31 Jan., 29 Japanese tea ceremonies & other events.5-6, 12-13, May, 31 July, 30 Oct. Contact Bagni’s Pro Loco or SUAP 19-20 March. For information: Centro Culturale office (tel.0583 809908 at least 5 days in advance if you Compitese: 0583 977188, 366 2796749.would like your own space).

www.camelielucchesia.it

Festa della Donna, 8 March. At Bagni di Lucca’s Casinò, artistic & cultural events throughout the week, in-Firenze, Cinema Odeon Palazzo Strozzi. Original lan- Via di Vorno 67, Vorno. Acluding poetry by Mara Mucini, accompanied by Anna-guage films. Italian subtitles. www.odeonfirenze.comLivia Walker at the harp. 12 March 4.30pm.

Cinema Astra, Piazza del Giglio, Lucca. Operas in . Pisa’s medieval birthday celebrations (25 March each Simulcast from the Royal Opera House. 0583 971125.year),accompanied by fireworks, boat races.

Scheduled for Summer Festival: Lionel Richie double billed with Earth, Wind & Fire! 12 July (more to come as they are announced).

Carnival at Valdottavo (Borgo a Mozzano) is on 31 Jan. & 7 Feb. 2.30pm to 5pm.

Agorà Library presents Festa del Gatto (children 3 to 6 years) on 17 Feb. 5pm. Mask - making (children 5 years and up) on 4 Feb. 4.30pm. Piccolo biblioteca delle meraviglie (18 to 36 months) on 20 Feb. at 10.30. In the Mediateca, cartoons on Wednesdays at 5pm (3/10/17/24 Feb.) Free but reservations are required. Tel. 0583 445716, biblio@comune.lucca.it.

Lucca, Teatro San Girolamo. Teatro Ragazzi:12 Feb. 9.45am & 2.45pm, Ho Visto il Lupo. Children 3 years & up. 25 Feb. 9.45am & 2.45pm, Il Sogno di Tartaruga. Children 4 to 10 years. Tickets €5. Tel. 0583 465320.l biglietteria@teatrodelgiglio.it

Teatro Bambi at Coreglia Antelminelli, 6 Feb. at 4.30pm offers a show of magic & illusion. €5. Tel. 0583 78152.

Tenuta Dello Scompiglio, n original performance with music on 7 Feb. at 3.30 & 5pm. Sotto la neve, minuetto d’inverno. Under the Snow, a Winter Minuet. Children 3 to 8. Reserve at

29 Feb. 9.30pm, Lucca, Complesso di S. Micheletto, AML’s Musica Ragazzi program. Puppets & narration by Via Elisa. Circolo del Cinema & Animando present the Carla Nolledi & Cristiana Traversa. 3/4/5/6 10.30 am, film Tous les matins du monde (1991) by Alain Casermetta San Colombano on the Walls, Corneau (soundtrack by Jordi Savall, viola da gamba). www.associazionemusicalelucchese.it, 0583 469960.

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine February 2016

Porcari

Capannori

Colle di Compito & Pieve di Compito

Viareggio32km

Massa Carrara

Forte dei Marmi

Pietrasanta

Sant’Anna di Stazzema

Camaiore

Corsanico (Massarosa)

Tonfano

Torre del Lago

San Rossore Park

PISA26km

Vorno

Gattaiola

San Giuliano Terme

Abetone

Celle dei Puccini(Pescaglia)

Benabbio

Villa Basilica

Pieve a Elici

Tofori

Ponte aMoriano

Camigliano

Barga

Castelnuovo Garfagnana

Bagni di Lucca26km

Lucca: Outside Lucca: 34. Pisa, Teatro Verdi, Via Palestro 40. 050 94111, www.teatrodipisa.pi.it

1. Lucca Summer Festival, Pza Napoleone. 20. Sinfonia Music Association, Via N. Sauro, 527 35. Pisa, Scuola Normale Concerts. www.sns.it, 0584 46477 www.ticketone.it 21. Montecarlo, Teatro dei Rassicurati 050 941111 or 050 94118836.

2a/b. San Giovanni and Dei Servi Churches. 22. Porcari: Auditorium Vincenzo Da Massa 36. Pisa, Music under the Tower (OPA). www.puccinielasualucca.com Carrara & Piazza Felice Orsi www.opapisa.it See page17.www. sagramusicalelucchese.com 23. Capannori, Artè, Via Carlo Piaggia. 37. Florence, Maggio Musicale Fiorentino.

3. Lucca Opera Festival, Oratorio Angelo 24. Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Via di Vorno 67, www.operadifirenze.itCustode, Via degli Angeli Custodi. Vorno. 0583 971125, 38. Florence, Teatro Verdi, Via Ghibellina 99. www.iconcertidegliangelicustode.com www.delloscompiglio.org www.teatroverdionline.it

4. Fond. Ragghianti, San Micheletto, AML, 25. Ponte a Moriano 39. Florence, Santo Spirito, Piazza Santo SpiritoLucca In Musica. 0583 469960, a. Teatro I. Nieri, Piazza Cesare Battisti, www.accademiadelispiritati.orgwww.associazionemusicalelucchese.it 0583 465320. 40. S. Anna di Stazzema Peace Organ Festival,

5a. Teatro del Giglio, Pza Giglio. 0583 465320, b. Accademia Montegral, Convento 0584 772025, www.santannadistazzema.orgclosed Mondays and Sundays, dell'Angelo, 0583 406300. 41. Tonfano, Marina di Pietrasanta, Teatro Sant’www.teatrodelgiglo.com 26. Celle dei Puccini, Pescaglia. Puccini Antonio, Via Verdi, 335543579, 3471305764.

5b. Teatro San Girolamo, Museum. 42. Torre del Lago Puccini, Festival Pucciniano.www.teatrodelgiglio.com 27. Altopascio. Via Francigena Festival, 0584 359322.www.puccinifestival.it

6. Real Collegio, Piazza del Collegio Gemignani Music School. 43. Pieve a Elici (Massarosa), AML 0583469960, 7. Boccherini Institute Auditorium, Pza Del 28. Colle di Compito and Pieve di Compito, www.associazionemusicalelucchese.it

Suffragio, www.boccherini.it Compitese Culture Centre. 44. Corsanico (Massarosa) Organ Festival. 8. San Francesco Church, Pza San Francesco 29. Camigliano (Capannori) www.corsanicomusica.it 9. San Michele Church, Pza San Michele 30. Bagni di Lucca, Teatro Accademico, Via 45. Gattaiola, Villa Rossi10. San Paolino Church, Via San Paolino Roma. www.prolocobagnidilucca.it/ 46. Pietrasanta, Teatro la Versiliana. Viale Morin 11. San Romano Auditorium fitalucca@gmail.com (320 6320032) 16, Marina di Pietrasanta. 0584 265757, 12. Palazzo Pretorio Loggia, Pza San Michele 31a. Barga, Villa Libano. Nuovo Circolo dei Complete program www.laversilianafestival.it13. Santa Maria Corteorlandini Church Differenti. 47. San Giuliano Terme. Villa Roncioni (loc. 14. Piazza Cittadella, Puccin’s birthplace, 31b. Opera Barga. 0583 711068, Pugnano). Costumes & hats. Tuesdays to

museum. operabarga@gmail.com, www.operabarga.it Sundays 4pm to 8pm. 050 817900, 15. Botanical Garden concerts, 31c. Barga Jazz. 0583 724418, info@bargajazz.it, www.fondazionecerratell.it

www.ortobotanicodilucca.it, 0583 442160. www.bargajazz.it 48. Montecatini Terme, Estate Regina Music 16. San Martino (Duomo) 31d. Belcanto in Barga. 340 5831419, Festival, at the Terme & Teatro Verdi. Until 4 17. Amphitheatre Jazz, belcantoinbarga@gmail.com Oct. 0527 78903, www.estateregina.it

www.comune.lucca.it/anfiteatrojazz. See www.belcantoinbarga.com 49. Forte dei Marmi, Villa Bertelli, Viale Mazzini article in June Grapevine. 31e. Il Ciocco, Castelvecchio Pascoli. 0583 7691. 200. 0584 787251 www.villabertelli.it

18. Santa Caterina Church, Via Vittorio Veneto 33a. Castelnuovo Garfagnana, IAM Music 50. Prato, Teatro Metastasio, Via B. Cairoli 59.19. Palazzo Ducale, Sala Tobino Festival, www.iamitalia.com 51. Badia di Camaiore Organ Festival,

33b. Teatro Alfieri, Castelnuovo G., 0583 644185. www.camaioreorganfestival.it

1 2a2b

3

6

4

155a11

1810

12

13

14

16

17

19

28

2223

41

43

51

44

46

49

40

24

42

2045

47

29

31

33

25

3026

34,35,36

5b

7

8

9

Music & Theatre Venues

Via S. PaolinoVia S. Croce Via Elisa

Via Fillu

ngo

WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND Tuscany’s GRAPE

Florence 90km

Montecarlo 20km

Montecatini Terme

Altopascio

Prato

50

21

48

27

37,38,39

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine February 2016

WHAT’S ON IN & AROUNDEVINE Magazine

Lucca: Around Lucca: S. Seravezza, Palazzo Mediceo, Viale L. Amadei 230. Every day 5pm to midnight, also A. San Francesco Church Complex. L. Vorno: Tenuta dello Scompiglio. Via di Vorno Sat-Sun 10.30am to 12.30pm (noon). 0584 AA. ex Casa del Boia. 67. www.delloscompiglio.org 757443.B. Lu.C.C.A. Museum of Contemporary Art, Via M1. Montecarlo: Pasquinelli Gallery, Via Roma.

SS. Torre del Lago. Art for the Puccini Festival della Fratta 36. www.luccamuseum.com M2. Porcari, Fondazione Lazzareschi. (www.puccinifestival.it). Puccini Theatre Foyer.C. MUST, Urban Museum of Lucca, Palazzo M3. Tassignano, Artemisia Cultural Center &

Guinigi, Via Guinigi 29. History, archaeology, Library, via dell’Aeroporto 10. 0583 936427.Pisa:photography. M4. San Gennaro, Palazzo Bocella, Via Celli 52.T1. Palazzo Blu, www.palazzoblu.it D1. Fondazione Banca del Monte, Pza San N. Ponte a Serraglio: Grapevine Cultural Assoc. T2. Piazza dei Miracoli. www.opapisa.it Martino 12. www.fondazionebancadelmonte.it La Rondine Gallery, Via V. Emanuele. T3. SMS Centro Espositivo Museale. Via S. D2. Banca del Monte, Piazza San Martino. 0583 O. Ponte a Moriano

Michele degli Scalzi 176. 050 544767. 450278. Barga: T4. Graphics Museum, Palazzo Lanfranchi E. Fondazione Ragghianti, San. Micheletto. 0583 P1. Town Hall Gallery, Via di Borgo 18.

Lugarno G. Galileo. 050 2216060. 467205. P2. Mount Tabor Ecumenical Center, Via delle T5. San Giuliano Terme, Roncioni Villa. F. Cathedral Museum, Pza Antelminelli. 0583 Mura 12. www.mounttabor.it.

490530, didattica@museocattedralelucca.it, P3. Villa Libano, Via del Sasso, 7. Nuovo Circolo Prato:

www.museocattedrale.lucca.it dei Differenti. Art exhibitions with live music. U. Palazzo Pretorio.

G. Villa Bottini, Via Elisa 9. www.facebook.com/circolodifferenti.www.palazzopretorio.prato.it

H1. Palazzo Ducale, Pza. Napoleone. P4. Fondazione Ricci, Galleria Pza. San Rocco. V. Textile Museum. Via S. Chiara.

H2. Palazzo Mansi, Via Galli Tassi 43. tel. 0583 Versilia: www.museodeltessuto.it55570 www.luccamuseinazionali.it Q1. Pietrasanta. Sant’Agostino Museum, Pza V V. Teatro Metastasio. Via B. Cairoli 59.

I1. Santa Giulia Church, Pza del Suffragio. Duomo. 0584 795268.I2. San Cristoforo Church, Via Fillungo. Q2. La Meridiana Gallery, Via Barsanti 29. Florence:J1. State Archives, Piazza Guidiccioni. Q3. Viareggio. Mercurio Arte Contemporanea 43. W. Palazzo Strozzi. www.palazzostrozzi.orgJ2. State Archives, Piazza Macelli. Corso Garibaldi 116. X. Accademia Gallery. Via Ricasoli 58/60.

New exhibition space. Q4. Viareggio. L. Viani Gallery of Modern & www.unannodarte.itJ3. Domus Romana archaeological site. Via C. Contemporary Art. 0584 976510, www.gamc.it Y. Palatina Gallery. www.unannodarte.it

Battisti 15. 0583 050060. Tues & Thurs Q5. Viareggio. Villa Paolina, Via Machiavelli. YY. Villa Bardini, Costa San Giorgio 2. 10am to 5pm www.domusromana.it Forte dei Marmi: Z1. Argenti Museum. www.unannodarte.it

K. Uscher Gallery, Via della Zecca 15. R1. Villa Bertelli, Viale G. Mazzini 200, 0584 Z2. Palazzo Medici Riccardi. KK. Real Collegio, Pza del Collegio 13. 280292, www.villabertelli.it Z3. Uffizi. www.unannodarte.it R2. Satire Museum, Pza Garibaldi 1. Daily 5pm Z4. Gucci Museum. Piazza della Signoria 10.

www.guccimuseo.comto midnight.

Tonfano

Florence 90km

Prato

Capannori

San Gennaro

Viareggio32km

Massa Carrara

Forte dei Marmi

Pietrasanta

Seravezza

Camaiore

Abetone

Barga

Ponte a Moriano

Castelnuovo Garfagnana

Bagni di Lucca26km

AAA

N

O

B

K

C

E

Q1,Q2

S

R

Q3,Q4,Q5

P

G U,V,VVI1

I2J1

J2

J3

KK

Via S. PaolinoVia S. Croce Via Elisa

Via Fi

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o

Art Exhibition Venues from A to Z

Montecarlo 20km

Porcari14km

Tassignano

Torre del Lago

Vecchiano

PISA 26km Vorno

DF

LT

SS W,X,Y,YY,Z1,Z2,Z3,Z4

H1

M1M2

M3

M4

H2

Capannori

San Giuliano Terme

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine February 2016

3 2 8.45pm, Firenze, Teatro della Pergola. Orestea by Aeschylus. Continuing until 7 Feb. Tel. 055 0763333, www.teatrodellapergola.com

1 31 JanuaryPRINCIPATO DI MONACO (in France). Il Circolo Catalani has organized a trip to see the opera La Wally, Jan. 30-31 tel. 3479951581.

5pm, Istituto Musicale Boccherini Auditorium, AML concert with Ivano Battiston (accordion) & Gabriele Ragghianti (bass). Music by Emil Tabakov & Federico Favali. See page 2.

74pm, Teatro del Giglio, Lucca. La Vedova Allegra by Lehar. LTL Opera Studio.

5pm, Istituto Musicale Boccherini Auditorium, Lucca. AML concert dedicated to L. Boccherini with Alain Meunier (cello) & Nous Quartet (strings). See page 2.

145pm, Istituto Musicale Boccherini Auditorium, Lucca. AML Concert dedicated to L. Boccherini with Giovanni Sollima (cello) & Simone Soldati (strings). Including music by Bach, Sollima, Boccherini, Beethoven. See page 2 & article on page 7.

16 9pm, Teatro del Giglio, Lucca. Dance event Passo a due by the company Catapult with Magic Shadows.

15

22

299.30pm, Lucca, Complesso di S. Micheletto, Via Elisa. In collaboration with Circolo del Cinema, Animando presents the film Tous les matins du monde (1991) by Alain Corneau. The soundtrack to this film was written by Jordi Savall (viola da gamba). See Grapevine page 8.

24239pm, Saloncino della Musica, Palazzo De’Rossi, Pistoia. Chamber Music by Isabelle Faust & Andrea Staier. See article on page 8.

8.45pm, Firenze, Teatro della Pergola. The Cherry Orchard, from Chekhov. Continuing until 24 Feb. www.teatrodellapergola.com

1088pm, Prato, Teatro Metastasio, Via Cairoli 59. Jazz concert of music by Thelonious Monk, Monk’s Casino, Tel. 0574 608501, www.metastasio.it

9

179pm, Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca Auditorium. Pinocchio, story of a puppet, with Carmelo Bene (author/director/performer) & music by Gaetano Giani Luporini.

215pm, Istituto Musicale Boccherini Auditorium, Lucca. AML Concert dedicated to G. Luporini with music, theatre, poetry, painting organized by Fabrizio Giovannelli. See page 2.

4.30pm, Teatro del Giglio, Lucca. Toni Servillo legge Napoli (a reading of Neapolitan prose).

4pm, Pisa, Teatro Verdi, La Vedova Allegra by Lehar.

285pm, Istituto Musicale Boccherini Auditorium, Lucca. AML Concert dedicated to Liszt with Giuseppe Albanese (piano). See page 2.

Wed Mon Tues

Music & TheatreFebruary 2016

Sunday

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Isabelle Faust

Il Sogno di Tartaruga

editor@luccagrapevine.com Tuscany’s GRAPEWHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

4 7pm, Oratorio of San Giuseppe, Lucca. Puccini concert. Puccinielasualucca.

257pm, Oratorio of San Giuseppe, Lucca. Puccini concert. www.puccinielasualucca.com

9.45am & 2.45pm, Lucca, Teatro San Girolamo. Teatro Ragazzi: Il Sogno di Tartaruga. €5. Children 4-10 years. Tel. 0583 465320/biglietteria@teatrodelgiglio.it

8.30pm, Pisa, Teatro Verdi, Titta Ruffo Hall. Coli, The Tell-Tale Heart & Angel of the Odd. www.teatrodipisa.pi.it

267pm, Oratorio of San Giuseppe, Lucca. Puccini con-cert/recital. www.puccinielasualucca.com

8.45pm, Firenze, Teatro della Pergola. A Doll’s House by Ibsen. Continuing until 6 March. Tel. 055 0763333, www.teatrodellapergola.com

11 7pm, Oratorio of San Giuseppe, Lucca. Puccini concert/recital. www.puccinielasualucca.com

8.45pm, Firenze, Teatro della Pergola. I Duellanti adaptation of J. Conrad. Continuing until 21 Feb. Tel. 055 0763333, www.teatrodellapergola.com

127pm, Oratorio of San Giuseppe, Lucca. Puccini concert/recital. www.puccinielasualucca.com.

9.45am & 2.45pm, Lucca, Teatro San Girolamo. Teatro Ragazzi: Ho Visto il Lupo. €5. For children 3 years & up. Tel. 0583 465320 or email biglietteria@teatrodelgiglio.it

57pm, Oratorio of San Giuseppe, Lucca. Puccini con-cert/recital. www.puccinielasualucca.com.

13 7pm, Oratorio of San Giuseppe, Lucca. Puccini concert/recital. www.puccinielasualucca.com.

9.15pm, Lucca, Auditorium del Suffragio, Piazza del Suffragio. Alan Freiles with Nuove Assonanze Ensemble perform Vivaldi, Boccherini & Viotti. Animando music programme. Tel 348 8605175, email presidente@animandolucca.it

9pm, Pistoia, Saloncino della Musica, Palazzo De’Rossi. Chamber Music Concert. See article on page 8.

67pm, Oratorio of San Giuseppe, Lucca. Puccini concert/recital. www.puccinielasualucca.com.

8.30pm, Teatro del Giglio, Lucca. La Vedova Allegra by Lehar LTL Opera Studio.

6pm, Saloncino della Musica, Palazzo De’Rossi, Pistoia. Musica Maga, music & its thaumatological power, 1500s-1600s. See article on page 8.

277pm, Oratorio di San Giuseppe, Lucca. Puccini concert/recital. www.puccinelasualucca.com.

9pm, Lucca Centro Storico. As part of Live Home, the duo La Dama & l'Unicorno present an anteprima of their show Robin della Foresta, dedicated to Robin Hood with medieval ballads & English folk music. ladamaelunicorno@gmail.com, https://www.facebook.com/ladamaelunicorno

6pm, Pistoia, Saloncino della Musica, Palazzo De’Rossi. Chamber Music Concert. See article on page 8.

187pm, Oratorio of San Giuseppe, Lucca. Puccini concert/recital.

Friday Saturday Thu

To locate the venues, see the map and the list above.

The listings published by Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith.

However, to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information before setting off.

19 .7pm, Oratorio of San Giuseppe. Puccini concert/ recital. www.puccinielasualucca.com

9pm, Teatro del Giglio, Lucca. Toni Servillo legge Napoli (a reading of Neapolitan prose).

20 7pm, Oratorio of San Giuseppe. Puccini concert/recital.www.puccinielasualucca.com

9pm, Teatro del Giglio, Lucca. Toni Servillo legge Napoli (a reading of Neapolitan prose).

8.30pm, Pisa, Teatro Verdi, La Vedova Allegra by Lehar.

Puccinielasualucca, for its winter season, offers concerts on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays

at the Oratorio of San GIuseppe at 7pm. Tickets are sold at the adjacent Cathedral Museum.

www.puccinielasualucca.cominfo@puccinielasualucca.com

or call 340 8106042

Coming UpLucca, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza del Suffragio. AML Concerts continuing on Sundays 6/13/20 March. See page 2.

Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza del Suffragio. Animando concerts continue on 5 & 25 March, 22 & 30 April, 16 May. Round-table discussion “Fra Lucca e Pistoia: il recupero del Settecento musicale toscano” with musicologists Gian Piero Ballotti & Riccardo Pini, orchestra director Alan Freiles & Animando artistic director Silvano Pieruccini, 3 March 5.30pm at Sala Maria Luisa, Palazzo Ducale, Lucca.

Lucca, Graham Nash on his Italian tour, Teatro del Giglio, 2 June.

Pisa, Teatro Verdi. Boito’s Mefistofele, March 18 - 20.

Pistoia, Saloncino della Musica, Palazzo De’Rossi. Chamber Music concerts continue. See article on page 8.

EVINE Magazine WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND www.luccagrapevine.com

ONGOING EXHIBITIONS:Lucca, Viareggio,

Lido di Camaiore,

Pisa,

Viareggio,Firenze,

Viareggio, Firenze,

Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca, Piazza San Martino 7. Floriano Bodini, Sculptures, drawings, etchings. Tuesdays to Sundays 10.30am to 12.30pm, 3pm to 7pm. Until 6 March 2016. See article on page 5.

Chiesa di San Franceschetto, Piazza San Francesco. Civitali’s Madonnas. Until 13 March.

Lucca,

Villa Argentina. Luoghi Altrove by Ivan Theimer. Watercolours from his travels in Europe, Asia & Africa. Until 3 April.

Dune Hotel. Personal exhibition by Matteo & Giorgio Piccaia. Until 31 August.

Galileo Airport. Henraux Foundation’s VolareArte, 3rd ed. Park Eun Sun presents 9 monumental sculptures. www.toscana-aeroporti.com Until 2017.

Piazza Mazzini, GAMC. Segno Gesto Materia, European Experience in post-WWII Art. Until 12 July. Palazzo Pitti. Rigor & Grace, little-known works painted by great artists

of the 1600s & later restored. Until 17 May. www.palazzopitti.itGAMC (Gallery of Modern Art). Rural Landscape & Country

Accademia Gallery. Carlo Portelli, an eccentric painter between Rosso Scenes by Ottone Rosai. A comparison of the works of Viani & Rosai. Until 3 Fiorentino & Vasari. Until 30 April. Info: 055 294883. www.unannoadarte.itApril.

editor@luccagrapevine.com Tuscany’s GRAPEWHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

7LAST DAY

LAST DAY:

: Scultura è poesia, Personal exhibition by sculptor Alfredo Lucifero.

Pietrasanta.

Seravezza, La Seravezziana Gallery, Piazza Carducci 83. Negli occhi di Caronte. In the Eyes di Caronte Infernal, surrealistic landscapes by Claudio Amadei. Tel. 334 1739861, annuziatafelice92@gmail.com

9 8

15LAST DAY: Firenze, Palazzo Vecchio, Via della Signoria.The Prince of dreams, Joseph in the Medicei Tapestries by Pontormo & Bronzino. 20 tapestries commis-sioned by Cosimo I de’Medici for this room. Tel. 055 2768325.

29

21LAST DAY

LAST DAY

: Lucca,

Viareggio,

Castle of Porta San Pietro (entering the Centro Storico). Nostalgia for Japan, in anticipation of the 27th Camellia Festival in Sant’Andrea di Compito.

GAMC Museum. 30 paintings by Alfredo Catarsini.:

22

23 24

16 17

28LAST DAY: Vorno, Tenuta Dello Scompiglio, Via di Vorno 67. I can reach you (from one to many). Tel. 0583 97145. Permanent Installations: “Camera #3”, “In sosta”, “There is not a priori answer to this dilemma (The Dolphin Hotel)” ,“W18S”, “Vuoto a rendere”, “Un Esilio”, “L'Attesa”, collective exhibit “Il Cimitero della Memoria”; “Arie per lo Scompiglio”, “Colours Passing Through Perceptions of Shadow & Light”. Visits subject to weather conditions.

2131 JanuaryLAST DAY:

LAST DAY:

Pisa,

Firenze,

Piazza Duomo. Arnaldo Pomodoro. Continuity & innovation. Sculptures, projects, drawings, documents. Daily 8am to 8pm.

Basilica di Santa Croce. In the language of the other. Giuseppe Castiglione Jesuit & Painter in China (1715-1766). Lang Shining New Media Art Exhibition. Mon-Sat. 9.30am-5pm, Sun. 2-5pm. 055 2466105.

3

10

14

LAST DAY:

LAST DAY: LAST DAY:LAST DAY:

LAST DAY

Lucca,

Pisa,Nuoro (Sardinia)Lucca,

Pietrasanta,

Lu.C.C.A. Museum De Chirico, Savinio e Les Italiens de Paris (1928-1933). See article in November Grapevine.

Palazzo Blu. Toulouse Lautrec. Montmartre Light & Shadow., MAN Museum. Paul Klee, Mondi Animati.

Center of Contemporary Art, Via della Fratta 36. Marcantonio Lunardi. Life 3.0, a celebration of video art, & Marcello Bartalini, Colore Assoluto.

Sala delle Grasce at Sant’Agostino Cloister, Via Sant’Agostino 1. Sculptures in marble by English artist Neil Ferber.

:

Wed TuesMon Sunday

February 2016

De Chirico

Marc

ello

Bart

alin

i

Exhibitions

To locate the venues, see the map & list on the back of this calendar

Venice,Firenze,

Firenze,

Treviso,Firenze,

Accademia Gallery, Campo della Carità, Dorsoduro. Seven new exhibit Gallery of Modern Art. Firenze Capitale 1865-2015. The donations & rooms have been opened (in addition to 5 rooms opened last May) in the Canonici collections of the King. Until 3 April.Lateranensi designed by Andrea Palladio, with funding from Venice International Foundation, Friends of Venice & Venice in Peril Fund. The rooms will house Palazzo Pitti, Museo degli Argenti. Lapislazzuli, Magia del blu. With 1700s-1800s Venetian art. Especially worth mentioning are Canaletto’s artifacts ranging from the Indus Valley (7000 BC) to Medieval/Renaisance times Prospettiva con Portico and Gianbattista Pittoni’s Annunciation.& the 19th century. Tel. 055 2388709, www.unannoadarte.it

Santa Caterina Museum, History of Impressionism, The Great National Archaeological Museum, Piazza della Santissima Annunziata. Protagonists from Monet to Renoir, from Van Gogh to Gauguin. Il Mondo che non c’era. Pre-Colombian art in the Ligabue Collezione. 230 works The first 1000 tickets sold are “open” (come when you want) & include 2 other of the life, customs & cosmogonies of Middle & South-America. Until 6 March. Tel. exhibits at the same gallery: Tiziano Rubens Rembrandt. The feminine image in 055 23575, www.archeotoscana.beniculturali.itthe 1500s & 1600s, 3 masterpieces from the Scottish National Gallery of Edinboro & From Guttuso to Vedova to Schifano. Italian painting in the second half of the 1900s. Until 17 April 2017. https://biglietto.lineadombra.it, www.lineadombra.it

EVINE Magazine WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND www.luccagrapevine.com

25 26

18

4 5

11 12

6 Lucca,

Forte dei Marmi,

Pistoia,

LAST DAY:

LAST DAY:

SINGLE CONFERENCE:

Palazzo Ducale. Disegna Ciò che Vedi (Draw What You See) by Helga Weissova. The holocaust seen through cartoons & drawings, an exhibit for reflection through the art of drawing. Also, art by Jan Karski - Reporter dall’Inferno.

Villa Bertelli. A semi-serious cartoon history of Forte dei Marmi, drawings ironically telling the town’s history.

Palazzo De’Rossi, Via De’Rossi 26. A tu per tu con l’opera d’arte. A discussion of painting N. 3 by Sergio Beragnoli. The gallery is exceptionally open from 3.30 to 7.30pm on this day. Free but reservations are advised: 0573 974226 or eventi@fondazionecrpt.it Other artworks in the collection will be discussed on 5 March, 9 April, 7 May & 4 June.

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27

Saturday Thu

19 20

Friday W

OR

TH

TH

E T

RIP

...

Flo

riano B

odin

i

Cla

udio

Am

adei

Impre

ssio

nis

ts

Marc

anto

nio

Lunard

i

Exhibitions

Clues in English have Italian answers andclues in Italian have English answers

December/January solution

Compiled by Helen Askham

Cruciword

LOVE’S IN THE AIR!

C O M E T A A N G E L SH I A M O R E X AR A G R U A R K M NI R A A S I N O B I TS O D A E C O C R AT M M A D N E S S R CM A I R U M A EA B A M B I N O CS T A T L IE R O D E B A G E LV A N A N E V IE N T R A A N S I A

S A N T A C L A U S

1 2 3 4 5 6

7

8 9

10 11

12 13

14 15 16 17

18 19

20 21 22

23

24 25

26 27

ACROSS DOWN

I love; fish hook (3)

Il gruppo inglese di musica pop Where shepherds and che si anagramma in 6 vert. (5)shepherdesses live; mitica

patria della poesia bucolica (7)

1 Lui cantò / He sang Strangers 1 Picche (6)in the Night (7)4 Dalla o Battisti (5)

2 Cinderella’s prince (7)8 Wedding (5)3 Blue sky (8)9 Invidioso (7)4 Fa binomio con marriage (4)10 TA (7)5 It rhymes with amore (5)11 Twenty-first letter of the Italian 6 In other words (5)alphabet (4)7 Un frutto acido (5)12 Rende opposto il verbo (3)13 To alter the appearance in order 14 Circa (5)

to trick (8)15 Tondo (5)16 Eterna (7)1817 Tesoro (7)20 Dear (4)1922

20 Ruined, broken, German style (5)24 Peas (7)

21 Fiori bellissimi (5)25 Vivo (5)26 Un’eroina di Puccini (5) 23 Lei cantò le canzoni di Cole 27 Peso (6) Porter (4)

PISA LUCCA

Piazza dei Miracoli: Museum of the Risorgimento, Palazzo Ducale. 0583 417483.Leaning Tower, March to October 9am to 7pm, November to February San Francesco Complex, Piazza S. Francesco. 1 April to 31 Oct., Sat-Sun 9.30am to 5pm. April to September 8.30am to 8.30pm. Night visits from 14 10am to 7pm. 1 Nov. to 31 March, Sat-Sun 10am to 5pm.June to 15 September, 8.30pm to 11pm. €15. Take the shuttle bus A from Santa Caterina Church, Mon-Fri 4pm-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-1pm, 3pm-6pm Central Station. 050 910789. Paolo Cresci Museum for the History of Italian Emigration. Via Vittorio Cathedral, Fall, spring, summer 8am to 8pm. €2. Winter 10am to 12.45 pm, Emanuele 3. Oct. to Apr. 9.30am to12.30pm, 2.30am to 5.30pm. May to Sept. 3pm to 4.45 pm weekdays, 3pm to 4.45pm Sundays/holidays. 050 560547. 10am to 12.30pm, 3pm to 6.30pm. www.fondazionepaolocresci.itBaptistry, The biggest in Italy, built in 1153 by Diotisalvi with works by Lu.C.C.A. Museum of Contemporary Art, Via della Fratta 36. 0583 Nicola Pisano. March to October 9am to 6.30pm. €5 (reduced €2). Winter 571712, www.luccamuseum.com 10am to 4.30pm. 050 560547. Domus Romana Lucca, Via C. Battisti 15. Longobard archaeological site Monumental cemetery, Etruscan, Latin, Medieval. March to October (1000 B.C.) 0583 050060, www.domusromanalucca.it 9am to 6.30pm. Winter 10am to 4.30pm. €5 (reduced €2).

Villa Guinigi, Via Quarquonia. €4 (free under 18 and over 65). Tuesday to Royal Palace Museum, Lungarno A. Pacinotti. 050 926511.

Saturday 8.30am to 7.30p Sunday 8.30am to 1pm. 0583 496033.Botanical Garden, Via Luca Ghini 5. Dating from Cosimo de’ Medici

Torre Guinigi, Via Sant'Andrea 45. €3.50. June-Sept. 9am- midnight. (1544), attached to the University of Pisa. 050 2211316.

Palazzo Mansi, Via Galli Tassi 43. €4 (reduced €2). Tuesdays to Saturdays Jewish Cemetery, Via Palestro, near Piazza dei Miracoli, dating to 1648,

8.30am to 7.30pm. 0583 583461, 0583 55570. one of the oldest Hebrew cemeteries in Europe. Puccini's Birthplace, Corte San Lorenzo 9. €7 (reduced €5, free under 10). Piazza dei Cavalieri, Re-designed by Giorgio Vasari in the 16th century April to October 10am to 6pm. Closed Tuesdays. 0583 584028. according to the wishes of Cosimo de’ Medici, seat of the Knights of St. Cathedral Museum, Pza Antelminelli. €4 (reduced €2.50). Mar. 8 to Nov. 2, Stephen and the Scuola Normale. One of the towers contains the jail of 10am to 6pm. Winter, 10am to 2pm, weekends 10am to 5pm. 0583 490530. Count Ugolino, as recalled by Dante in the Inferno. Palazzo Pfanner, Via degli Asili 33. Gardens. 0583 954029. Palazzo Blu, Lungarno Gambacorti 9. Free admission. Tuesdays to Palazzo Ducale, Cortile Carrara. Provincial offices, historic rooms and Fridays 10am to 7pm, Saturday and Sunday 10am to 8pm. 050 500197. Cresci Foundation for Italian Emigration. 0583 417363. Museo San Matteo in Soarta, Lungarno Mediceo. €8 (students 18 to 25 Museum of the Liberation (1940-1943), Palazzo Guinigi, Via €4). 050 541865.Sant'Andrea 43. www.museodellaliberazionelucca.itWall by American artist Keith Haring (1958-1990) entitled Tuttomondo, at Fondazione Ragghianti, Via San Micheletto 3. Art library, galleries, the Sant'Antonio Convent near Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II. A metaphor for

peace and harmony in the world. conference rooms, ancient cloister with gardens. 0583 467205Piaggio Viale R. Piaggio 7, Pontedera (Pisa). Tues to Fri 10am to Botanical Garden, Via del Giardino Botanico 14. Open week days 9.30am

6pm, Sat 10am-1pm, 2pm- 6pm. 0587 27171, museo@museopiaggio.it to 12.30am, from July to 16 Sept. 10am to 7pm. 0583 442160. Museo

Museums & Monuments

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine February 2016

The Baby Backstage

ome people say that there are no way to one of the backstage doors. The man And I, for one, am a guarding the door looked at my daughter

believer in this thought. I grew up and then to me, as I politely asked, “Would s in Southern California in the 70's. you please let us backstage? My daughter My mother was a fan of musicals and rock really believes that Ted is Jesus and she operas. But one rock opera stole her heart in would love to see him.” The doorman 1972 – Jesus Christ Superstar (JCS) stopped, smiled and opened the door just

sweetly, “I know you.” He told us that night starring Ted Neeley and Carl Anderson. Ted enough for me to squeeze through. I reached had changed his life. It was the only time a also lived in Southern California. He back, grabbed my mother's arm, and pulled baby had been backstage, ever. He and Carl performed in our theaters, walked our her through that magical door with me.had spoken about the importance of portray-streets, and shopped in our stores. Ted Like Alice in the rabbit hole, we were ing such recognizable characters. They real-Neeley and JCS were iconic. immediately transported to a lively, active, ized that night, with this baby in their arms, JCS, for my mother, was more than just a after party. Cast members laughing and that their responsibility was great and would rock opera. It was a movement. I can't count dancing, singing and playing instruments, always be. This story of the “the baby back-how many times we watched the video at every corner showing life and excitement. stage” would become one that Ted repeated home, learning and singing along to every And then Ted Neeley and Carl Anderson often, to his cast, crew, fans and family. note and word. It was a tradition. I eventu- were standing before us. We shared stories,

Coincidence? I would say serendipity. ally grew up, got married, and had four chil- as they held little wide-eyed Sasha in their For that night, as Ted held my mother's hand dren of my own. Little did I know that my arms, kissing her cheeks and basking in her and spoke, I listened intently, watching how mother would pass on the love of JCS to my bright smile of wonder and amazement. It their eyes lit up with smiles, and trying to children as well. was a night that my mother and I talked forever capture the memory; as Ted and about for years to come. My oldest daughter, Sasha, born in 1993, Carl had done 21 years ago. For this night Fast-forward 21 years. Sasha is about to was quiet and sweet, smart and curious. She was our moment, our realization, that life is graduate with a Master's Degree. My mother was also a fast fan of the beloved JCS and short, dreams are important, fate often leads recently retired and moved to Lucca, where I Ted Neeley. By the time Sasha was one year the way, and PEOPLE MATTER. have joined her. old, she had mastered Mary's role, in song

I will always remember this experience and act. A blue scarf would serve as her cos-with my mom, always be thankful for the tume day after day, and she too joined the amazing adventures that we have been on ranks as a raving JCS fan, firmly believing And so, my mother and I found ourselves together and hope and wish for more. And, that Ted Neeley was in fact, Jesus himself. at the show, once again, singing along with like Ted said, “I know you.” I hope as we When the production came to Universal the cast, smiling ear to ear as we reminisced spend our time in Italy, to be able to make Amphitheater in Universal City, California, about Sasha and “our story”. As the show remarkable new friendships and experi-we purchased tickets for our entire family. ended and people casually left the theater, ences that spark me to retell a story, to With Baby Sasha in my arms, dressed in her my mother and I lingered behind, hoping to smile more and to live more fully. “hippie” clothes, and my mom next to me, speak to the cast. An hour later, we found our-

Thank you Ted Neeley, for your perfor-we watched the performance with awe and selves in a familiar situation: exchanging mances, but most of all for your genuine delight, Sasha singing and dancing along laughter and insight with Ted Neeley. We kindness and warm wishes – forever a part with the cast. told him the story of sneaking Sasha back-of “our story”. stage in 1994 in L.A., and suddenly Ted After the performance the theatre emptied,

and with little Sasha in my arms I made my stopped us, took my mother's hand and said – by Marcella Smith

coincidences.

We buy tickets for the performance of JCS in Firenze!

Last year, on our third night in Lucca, my mother and I found ourselves lost and on an unfamiliar bus. It seemed to be a night of frustration. But on the bus, hanging from the ceiling was a small poster advertisement for Jesus Christ Superstar in Firenze, with none other than Ted Neeley!

RISTORANTE - PIZZERIA - INSALATERIA Newly renovated, friendly, spacious & airy....

Little Maggie will be waiting for you!Choice

of indoor

or outdoor dining

Menù Puccini

Antipasto

Lardo - Cannellini

Polenta e funghi/

Primo

Tortelli Lucchesi

Secondo

Coniglio con olive

Dessert

Buccellato con vin santo

Vino, Acqua e Caffè & Biadina del

Maestro

Via degli Angeli 13 - Lucca Centro Storicojust off Via Fillungo between Torre delle Ore & the Amphitheatre

For reservations, please call 0583 91042. www.anticosigillo.it

TRADITIONAL LUCCA CUISINE

A la carte & fixed price menus Consider the “ Menu Puccini “

Continuous hours 11.30am to 10.30pm

Open every day in summer

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine February 2016 19

The Olive Press and Jacuzzi Family Winery Oil and Wine Intertwine in California

ince antiquity olive production and vineyards have been Twice a year there is a community olive pressing. Friends, intertwined. Ancient Greeks and Romans produced and neighbors and others who want to process their olives bring them consumed both wine and olive oil. The ancient Romans for cooperative pressings. The old Pieralisi olive press has been S stored their wines in clay amphorae, placing them in replaced by the present day newer model Pieralisi, which crushes

trees and using a clay plug to keep insects and other undesirables four times the volume of the former press. A variety of olives out. The Greeks also used amphorae, but designed them to be goes into the community pressing and the olives are carefully stuck in sand or loose ground. They sealed their wines with olive checked for tiny puncture wounds that might indicate larvae have oil to protect them. been laid by insects. Damaged olives can never be used for extra

The friendship of wines and oils continues today, even in virgin olive oil. California. The Olive Press at Jacuzzi Family Vineyards was What kind of olives does the Olive Press use for its own founded by Chicagoan Ed Stolman, who built a large chocolate commercial olive oils and olive related products? There are over ice cream bar industry there and sold it for a vast fortune. He left 150 varieties of olives available for pressing in California. Chicago and came to Sonoma, California, where he built a However, the Olive Press uses only about fifteen local varieties: Tuscan-style villa. Noticing that his neighbors were growing Ascolano, Arbequina, Mission (a California native), Koroneiki olive trees, he imported 1400 olive trees from Tuscany. As the (Greek), a blend of four Tuscan varieties (Frantoio, Leccino, trees matured he realized that there was not a single olive press Pendolino, Moriolo), and Sevillano (Spanish), Picual and (frantoio) for pressing oil in Sonoma County. He formed a Arbosana. cooperative and along with ten others went to Tuscany and The Olive Press sells an array of France to observe olive oil production. The group was so flavored balsamic vinegars from Italy, inspired by what they saw that they sent Ed back to Italy to buy a as well as olive wood products. The Pieralisi olive press (from Ancona, in the Jesi region). By 1995 gift room is a shopping heaven, and a he started pressing olive oil about twelve kilometers away from large picture window allows visitors his own grove. to view the olive oil production

The Jacuzzi family, including Fred Cline’s mother, emigrated firsthand. There are tours by from Friuli during the 1920's. When the Jacuzzi Family Winery was appointment and free tastings opened about nine years ago, owners Fred and Nancy Cline of olive oil and flavored offered Ed a space to permanently locate the oil production. balsamic vinegars.In 2012, after Ed Stolman passed away, the Clines bought the majority stake in The Olive Press. They have continued the tradition of making award-winning olive oils and vinegars alongside their excellent wines.

– by Linda Bocciawith

Vicki Zancanella

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine February 2016 20

THE OLIVE PRESS &JACUZZI FAMILY VINEYARDS are located at 24724 Arnold Drive,

Sonoma, California. Complimentary tastings for wines,

olive oils and vinegars. Come see and taste one of the most

awarded olive oils in California.

Tuscan Tradition Resides in my Texan Hearthat an amazing late

October day for a Texan in Tuscany! The international WComics exhibit was in

Lucca. It is second in attendance only to one in Tokyo. The medieval walled city of Lucca became a mass of weekend revelers.

Although I vowed not to get into the crowd, I could not resist being in the thick of highly-costumed people of all ages thronging through the ancient city walls. If you think that a Mardi Gras parade is exciting, you should see this! Some of the attendees work on their costumes for an entire year and the results are outstanding. A Tyrannosaurus rex walked by me that would have made Hollywood proud.

I met some friends around midday and departed Lucca, heading to the Compitese hills, where a wine tasting and lunch, more important wines of Italy, many of We had some hands-on experience by followed a visit to an olive grove, had which I had never heard of. And boy, does holding a sheet up under the tree while the been arranged. There was not a cloud in Italy ever have incredible wines, different branches were shaken, and the children the sky so we were able to dine outside in each area. amused themselves by picking up olives while enjoying some amazing wines, Lunch was a jovial mixture of folks from off the ground. Once collected, small brought by a handsome Italian sommelier, Italy and other countries all laughing and growers take their olives to local olive who was joined by his delightful Spanish savoring each dish while discussing the pressers, and then retrieve their oil a day or wife and two darling, multilingual young wines, and more seriously, global issues. so later. And, it's amazing! So fresh. I'm daughters. We lingered in the glow of stimulating sure I will never again be able to buy

The vine-covered al fresco dining area conversation as the sun sauntered west. regular olive oil … but now, where do I find was the precise picture one thinks of when When it was almost sunset, we were this delicious oil in Texas??? Perhaps I will dreaming of a leisurely lunch under the invited to see the various techniques for use my luggage allowance in olive oil. Or, Tuscan sun. The surrounding hills were olive picking in this part of Italy. We all maybe I'll just have to stay in Italy….dressed in fall's array of colors. It could not rushed about, gathering tree-shaking As the day became night, we gathered have been a more perfect day. Friends and equipment, electrical cords, ladders, and our buckets of olives and wished the day acquaintances gathered around the table, buckets. Then off we went in tandem, up would not end. We kissed goodbye all first greeting each other with a glass of the hillside to see how olives are harvested! around with promises of another visit soon. champagne and the traditional kisses on Our merry band comically progressed up My Texan heart was totally captured by both cheeks (I never know which side is the mountain to the olive grove as I this Tuscan tradition of family and friends, first). As I have a particular interest in followed a couple in a two-seater Fiat, who sharing the fruits of the harvest. wine, Enrico explained his various had a ladder protruding at least a meter selections to me and discussed some of the from the rear! – by Debi Hill

VIA ACQUACALDA 192 (opposite the Cantoni factory), tel 0583/496920. Vast selection of second-hand furniture, clothes, toys, videos, etc. Visit our store on eBay and our page on Facebook.

Open 10.00-12.30 / 15.30-19.30 CLOSED MONDAY www.mercatinousatolucca.it On-line sales

House clearance - Removals.

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine February 2016 21

Business Networking in Lucca

hen people talk about “innovation” immediately they refer to business “incubators”, technological development centres, startups, etc. All these are Wsurely valid and useful to business growth.

However, focusing on these new paradigms for innovation we often forget about what has always been the motivating force in the business world, from antiquity until the present day.

This motivator is “word of mouth”, a casual activity that almost always happens by chance. Its effects, however, are often more effective than more complicated marketing strategies. When this casual word-of-mouth phenomenon becomes structured and continual, then you realize you are facing a truly innovative revolution that is available to anyone. I encountered this revolution some time ago, in the form of BNI.

All began when I accompanied my wife Paola to an informative meeting about BNI in Florence. I didn't immediately understand very well what they were saying and doing there. I knew only that it was an international networking organization present in the marketplace for over thirty years, with a clear and simple objective: to help its members to increase their own businesses thanks to a structured system of face to face encounters, which are Jonathan Carlesi, David Pieroni) are developing BNI in Pistoia, both positive and professional. Few words and a clear vision left Montecatini and Prato.me with the sensation of something diverse and innovative: the The year 2016 will experience BNI's expansion in Tuscany, a step transformation of exchanged references and contacts into forward towards my own personal dream of making BNI a partner business opportunities. for Tuscan businesses, a reference point for marketing and promo-

I immediately thought that this innovative idea of thirty years ago tion. For two years now when I hear talk about innovation I can't help should not be missing from the professional and business fabric of but think that BNI is already available to everyone. It can change the my city. After a few days, ever more convinced of BNI's potential, I way that professionals and businesspeople think and do business.decided to contact Paolo Mariola, National BNI Director for Italy. On that day in March 2014, by 7.30 the hall in Villa Bottini was He showed me how I could develop professional networking in overflowing with guests. They had all arrived. I could hardly Lucca as well. In this way I became Regional Director of Tuscany believe it.West (an area that includes the provinces of Lucca, Pistoia and Prato), beginning by building the first chapter at Lucca.

Two years ago in March, at 7 a.m. I was at Villa Bottini waiting for about a hundred guests. That day was the launching of the first BNI chapter in Lucca. I really wondered if one hundred professionals and businesspeople would come to have breakfast and to network at that impossible hour for Italians, to hear about BNI.

Now after two years, the virus continues to contaminate ever more professionals and businesspeople. Over fifty people have signed up for the two chapters in Lucca. Other directors (Miriam Carmassi,

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine February 2016 22

Born in Australia to Italian parents, Daniele Pagno first moved to South Africa for reasons of employment. He then worked in the textile industry as a textile chemist in various Italian towns, and also in the yachting and naval industries. When he came to Lucca ten years ago, Daniele decided that this was his perma-nent home. Daniele is now a projects management consultant, working as an independent professional. For more information about BNI call 340 183 7319 or email pagno@bni-italia.it

(Rustic Furnishings)

Via Nazionale 11 (Display room: S.S. delle Radici) Pieve Fosciana

347 4314972 Roberto347 4321105 Guido349 7170208 Giulia (English spoken)

info@garfagnanaarredamentirustici.itwww.garfagnanaarredamentirustici.it

Tip of the month

last year in the June and December installments and feel-P ing fine? If you do your own cal-

culations, sometimes you have surprises: maybe the regulations have changed at the last minute, or maybe there's something you never thought about. For example, if you are co-owners (with spouse, children, friends, etc.), did you file more than one form? It's not enough to pay the full amount. It's important that each owner makes a separate declaration for their share of the IMU. When in doubt, ask for profes-sional help. That's what the Italians do.

Do you have a tip that you would like to share with other

Grapevine readers? Email us at

editor@luccagrapevine.com

aid your IMU (property tax) for

Getting Things Done

(InAcademy) InternationalAcademy of Foreign Studies

srls55100 Lucca – Via Stefano Tofanelli, 275

0583 312911

Language Training Centre

inacademy.lucca@inacademies.com

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine February 2016 23

ave you ever tried to get I pulled out my Blackberry and called something done in an my partner. In the time it took him to Italian office and found come to the ACI office, Giorgio said, H yourself confused, dis- “Maybe I can revise these papers.” And

mayed or amused by the bureaucracy? the cost would be 59 euros – not 100 Have you been left with a feeling of inad- euros as I had previously been told.equacy, anger, embarrassment, hope- In the meantime, one of my friends, a lessness or helplessness? Lucchese of Scottish extraction, came

You are not alone! And linguistic com- through the ACI doors. We began chuck-petency is not always enough to resolve ling about the strange ways of Italian matters. Only last week I had several offices. Giorgio asked me for my date and such experiences. Please note: I've been place of birth and without much thought I a resident here for 22 years! replied, “San Diego, California, USA”.

In order to free myself of a very old gas- Based on past experience, I added: “But guzzling Renault Espace (dear car, you probably the computer will accept EE” have been a great help to me but your for estero, meaning foreign. days were numbered long ago), I went to The three of us watched Giorgio's frus-the Italian Automobile Association out- trations at the computer with barely con-side Lucca's Piazzale Verdi. I presented cealed amusement. Fifteen minutes the five pages of papers signed by my later, he commented: “San Diego didn't daughter, the car's owner, along with a exist as a town when you were born.” delega (authorization to represent her). What? How old does he think I am????We simply needed to declare perdita di We then spent some time trying to rein-possesso (loss of possession) because the vent the spelling of Sandiego (sic), but car had been demolished. finally the computer accepted California,

The man behind the USA. And for some reason the price of counter – let's call the documentation rose to 75 euros.him Giorgio – Which meant that despite the delays, quickly said, confusions and chuckles by the three of “These are the us on the other side of the counter, I was wrong papers. 25 euros richer than I had expected.You'll have to fill A little while later, reflecting over my out new ones, coffee, I wondered whether Giorgio take them to your shouldn't have requested my daughter's

daughter for signature and date and place of birth instead of my own. then return.” “Perché?” I asked. It was Maybe one day we'll discover that the my Italian partner who had initiated this whole process was done incorrectly and procedure. “E' così” was his reply. In is in fact null and void!other words, That's just the way it is. Or

And that's just one of my adventures inas I learned in Firenze back in my youth,

this fairytale world called Lucca.“mah!” said with an appropriate shrug of the shoulders. – by Norma Jean Bishop

Via G. Pascoli, 2P - BARGA - LUCCACell. 348 6920242

miltonenico@libero.it

SOLAR POWER - WOOD - PELLETS

Heatin

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Plum

bing

Insu

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Smelly Matters

ou are enjoying a wonderful evening of al fresco If the septic system is designed and installed correctly, it will be dining with some dear friends admiring the sweeping odour free. However, problems will occur when you start flushing views and perfumes of the surrounding valleys below non-biodegradable material like nappies down the toilet. Y ... a terrestrial paradise, a dream come true. A guest Excessive use of detergents or pesticides will harm or kill the

excuses himself. Five minutes later and those magnificent evening precious bacteria. Periodic pumping out of accumulating sludge scents are replaced by a foul smell. Did that jar of egg mayonnaise (fanghi) is needed to make the tank work more effectively and to go off or is there an abandoned melon in the fridge? There it is avoid overflowing into the drain field, which will cause clogging. again, only this time it's punctuated by embarrassing silences. That Drain fields can create huge problems if the water table raises and damn septic tank is acting up again. Why are septic tanks they get flooded. This will kill off the aerobic bacteria and cause sometimes so smelly? the effluent to back up into the septic tank. If a drain field is

Let's try to understand how waste water systems work. Waste constructed too deep, it will lack the plentiful supply of oxygen water is broken down by two types of bacteria (micro-organisms found in the first meter of soil below the surface, triggering

or bugs) that turn the nasty anaerobic digestion, producing smelly slime and eventually waste into a relatively harmless clogging. To keep your septic tank working correctly, periodic liquid or effluent. The first bac- pumping by a professional (autospurgo) should be carried out teria digests the waste and does between one and three years. Telltale signs of problems range not need oxygen. This bacteria from drains that are slow to clear, rotten egg smell, to dark green is anaerobic, which is where the grass around the drain field.concept “septic” comes from. If you get caught with a non-compliant waste water system (or if The waste slowly works its way you get reported by a disgruntled neighbour) then you run the risk through a number of intercon- of being fined €6000 by the health board. Unfortunately the whole necting watertight chambers, business of septic tanks is frequently forgotten during the due allowing a crust or scum to diligence of house sales. Should you wish to increase the number form over the surface and the of occupants following an extension or a conversion, then you solids or sludge to settle on the may be required to upgrade or replace the waste water system in floor of the first chamber. Once accordance with regulations. This exercise could cost you this cycle is complete, the efflu- anywhere between €2000 and €8000, so it is important to know ent leaves the septic tank and where you stand before you commit to buying. the oxygen-dependent bacteria To discharge effluent from an autonomous waste water take over. These aerobic bacte- treatment system, you need authorization from the local

ria work in the drain field, trincea drenante (also referred to as an municipality. This procedure runs independently of planning absorbtion field or leaching drain). A drain field is a perforated applications. It is referred to as autorizzazione allo scarico and pipe surrounded by graded aggregate or gravel to help air pene- takes about 60 days to obtain. Normally the local authorities trate and facilitate percolation into the soil. This process removes must first ensure that you are not obliged to connect up to the harmful bacteria, viruses and nutrients and lets the harmless efflu- mains sewer. This may become mandatory if you are located ent work its way into the ground water table. Sandy soils drain within 50m of the mains or no more than 5m below the level of very well, whereas clay soils require much larger drain fields. A the road where the mains are located. The application will geologist will determine the dimensioning of the drain field based require a geologist's assessment if a drain field is foreseen. The on the number of occupants and percolation characteristics of the septic tank must be located at least 1m from the dwelling's soil. foundations, 2m from the property's boundary and 10m from any

To determine the size of the septic tank, we need to know how source of potable water (such as a well, mains or water tank). many occupants will be using the dwelling. This calculation is Given that septic tanks can create smelly problems, it is wise to normally done by establishing the amount and size of bedrooms take note of the prevailing winds so that potential bad odours do and applying two occupants for each bedroom greater than 14sqm not go towards the dwelling or pool area. Septic tank vents and one occupant for smaller bedrooms. Commercially available should be taken above roof level or to a remote corner of the septic tanks usually start from five occupants. In Tuscany, the property. You also have to make sure that the septic tank location Regional Environmental Protection Agency, also called has access for pumping.A.R.P.A.T., has adopted a number of standard waste water systems Waste water systems work on very basic principles. If they are that can be adopted for dwellings. A residential waste water correctly designed, built and maintained, you will never have system is normally composed of a degreaser (degrassatore) embarrassing problems of egg mayonnaise or abandoned located near to the kitchen runoff. This catches grease and fats that melons!will otherwise clog the pipe downstream and cannot be broken down by the bacteria. Then we have a three-chamber septic tank David Collins, an engineer by profession, has lived and worked in and/or Imhoff tank (fossa biologica/fossa Imhoff) to separate the Tuscany for over 20 years. He manages Our Toscana, providing sediment and break down or digest the waste. This runs into a house surveys, plans & permits, and undertakes all kinds of drain field to complete the treatment and percolate into the soil. restoration projects throughout Tuscany. David lives near Lucca As an alternative, treated effluent can be discharged into mapped with his Italian wife and two children. For more information: waterways following an additional filtering process. david@ourtoscana.com / www.ourtoscana.com

Septic tanks

are frequently

forgotten

during house

sales.

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine February 2016 24

Sesto Cajo Baccelli

Manish's Zodiacal Predictions for February

Baccelli. This month we offer the answer: 64. Did you get it right? Bravo, you are a logical thinker!L

Here is the puzzle: Pinocchio wakes up each morning with his nose 1 cm long. Each time he tells a lie his nose doubles in length. Each time he doesn't tell a lie, if his nose is longer than 1 cm, it grows 1 cm shorter, if not it remains as is. Today he said 10 sentences, and 6 of them were lies. In the evening what is the maximum length that his nose can be?

Here's the secret: Pinocchio spoke 4 true sentences first, so his nose remained the same. Then he told 6 lies, so his nose doubled (2, 4, 8, 16, 32, 64). Simple, right?

ast month we offered a “Pinocchio puzzle” from the Italian lunario Sesto Cajo

Aries (21 March – 21 April). This month circumstances of the past. You will be Progress will be made in this period and sta-will see expansion of your life through phi- prone to overreact. bility is just around the corner! Take this losophy, travel or education. It promotes Virgo (23 August – 22 September). A new inspirational energy and put it to good use.the flow in your life so that things are easier vision for your life will take its place as the Aquarius (20 January – 18 February). than they have been in the past. You will month moves forward, but be patient. It Concentrate on your strengths and abilities find ways to express your unique identity will be your responsibility to maintain the and let go of what you cannot complete or in the outer world, preferably while pro- opportunities you've been given. Perhaps what you don't possess. Start creating very moting social justice. you will find someone new or will be add- specific financial plans and goals to get Taurus (20 April – 20 May). You will be ing new spirit to an ongoing relationship. yourself there. It will help get your life preoccupied with issues ranging from the Many possibilities for reaching people will back on track and put more trust in your mundane study of the budget and finances develop. own thoughts and ideas.all the way to important discussions with Libra (23 September – 22 October). This Pisces (19 February – 20 March). You are partners over the need for greater intimacy. should be an exciting month; something in the midst of warmth, brightness, and You may be organizing business issues long in the making will show signs of fru- beauty. Keep reaching for the skies, to stay related to an inheritance or your own leg- ition. There are still some loose ends that connected with nature, and grasp the full acy. You will feel the need to back out of need to be tied up, though. You are setting power of your capacity and set yourselves unviable professional commitments. and achieving goals and you must also free from all restrictions. Work on self-Gemini (21 May – 20 June). This is a pro- learn compassion to manifest your best care, self-assessment, and the choices you pitious time for you to begin new things, results. need to make in life. especially if they involve travel or commu- Scorpio (23 October – 21 November). nications. Give special attention to invest- Positivity, affirmations, being kind to your-ments and other shared resources. Ease up self, celebrating your talents and successes on the energy output and take rest breaks. – all of this will create fertile soil for your Your physical body may feel sluggish and dreams to take root and grow. You will your primary focus should be on internal need to let go of any desire to have power healing. over others and focus on developing your Cancer (21 June – 22 July). You have felt inner strength. the need to mature, and to solidify your Sagittarius (22 November – 21 identity, in a new or additional field of December). A pervading sense of ambiva-work. Changes have come into your life lence is creeping into your life just when you through relationships with those who have think it’s safe. You’ve been putting too minds of their own, and they will teach you much emphasis on some form of security: a Manish Kumar Arora is a renowned KP to set boundaries and claim your independ- relationship, job or lifestyle. You don’t real- Astrologer, Numerologist, Tarot Reader & ence in a relationship. ize how much this is holding you back as Vastu Consultant. He has been conferred Leo (23 July – 22 August). You might you’re overlooking an opportunity right in with the title of 'Jyotish Varahamihir' and encounter a physical or emotional block- front of your eyes. 'Jyotish Aryabhatt.' He writes monthly age that demands healing before you move Capricorn (22 December – 19 January). astrological columns for many interna-forward. Note where your frame of mind is You should be inspired to achieve greater tional magazines.and take responsibility for it. If you do not spiritual understanding by clearing your For information: recognize your feelings, a situation may mind of past thoughts. Being true to yourself manish@manishastrologer.comdrop from the sky that will remind you of will bring about the happiness you seek. www.facebook.com/manishastroconsultant

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine February 2016 25

(also visible at www.luccagrapevine.com)Classified AdvertisementsPROPERTY FOR SALE

Grapevine will advertise for individuals and act as mediator/ Lucca – REDUCED PRICE! interpreter with potential clients world-wide, using qualified In the heart of the old town, ele-geometers and professionals for all aspects of sales and rentals. gant apartment 170sqm.

Ready to move in. €449,000 Lovely traditional Compitese home. Kitchen with fireplace, terracotta floors, exposed beams. Approx. 130sqm with possibility to (Ref. 1092)restore additional 250sqm of cantinas & attached rustico for a total of 380sqm. Panoramic gardens with pizza oven & tettoia, 8 olive trees, 700sqm vineyard, woods & space for a pool. Total approx. 3000sqm. Tel. 0583 909012, please leave a message. (Ref. 1095) PIEVE di BRANCOLI, a stone S. Ginese di Compito Big old stone 19th century house with beams and palazzo, ready for 2 or 3 families, cotto to renovate. 180 sqm, courtyard. €65,000. Contact Grapevine. view and olive groves. €430,000. (Ref. 903) Compitese hills: Panoramic terraced olive grove, 3300 sqm. Approx. (Ref. 1094)200 olive trees (secolari), some grapevines and fruit trees, 35 sqm stone metato, link to community water supply. €40,000 OBO. (Ref. 996)

TORRE, 20 minutes from Lucca, wonderful location; two country houses with garden, just renovated

€180,000.

€220,000 (Ref. 1096)

LERICI (SP) Breathtaking sea view, two bedroom apartment with terrace in residence with swimming

pool. Private parking space. €250,000.

(Ref. 1105)

Rustically elegant Garfagnana home atop a hill overlooking majestic landscape. Fully renovated traditional farm-building with loggia & balconies. 160sqm with 2 fireplaces, 3 bathrooms, 4 bedrooms. Outside: terraced area with covered Jacuzzi, swimming pool, garage, parking, & 3Ha of land. Also included, solar panels producing elec-tricity sold to the national grid. Ideal holiday rental property. Request 580,000 euros. (Ref. 1104)

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Advertising with Grapevine costs as little as €10.

Paola MondelloBroker

Property Finder

Piazzetta dell’Arancio, 25 +39 0583 1531120Centro Storico - Lucca +39 328 6750831www.remax.it/viva pmondello@remax.it

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine February 2016 26

Text of advertisement ..............................................................................................................................

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CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FORM

Name and daytime telephone number....................................................................................

Fill out the form at the bottom of this page or use the form on our webpage

trilingual (French, English, Italian), for private & public engagements, lessons.

annalivia84@hotmail.comTel. 333 8617962

HARPIST

Farmhouses in Forci estate. For long rental beautifully restored 1500's residence of 533 mq on 2 floors: 5 large bedrooms, 4 ½ baths, living rooms, kitchen. Beautiful panoramic view. The house has a dependance of 190 mq. Ground floor: 2 bedrooms, 2 baths, living room with open kitchen; first floor: large openspace with big furnished kitchen. Other accommodation available.

Tel. +39 0583 349 007. (Ref. 1089)

Grand house clearance sale including garden equipment and furniture as well as everything you expect to find in the house together with several things which you perhaps don't expect. Location: Borgo a Mozzano. Come and view and we'll haggle over the price. 329 0178001 (Ref. 1101)

Removals Local, National, European and International relocation service. Servicing the UK with regular trips every 2-3 weeks. Full professional packing and export wrapping service. Friendly, experienced, professional Kiwi service. Contact Richard at

or 340 8748222. (Ref. 771)

PROPERTY FOR RENT

VARIOUS

LESSONS, TRANSLATIONS & COURSES

ENGLISH-SPEAKING PROFESSIONAL SERVICES

Lawyer Ilaria Cipriani (Anglo/Italian). Via Nottolini 733, 55100 Lucca. Farmhouses in Forci estate. For Tel. 0583 1892444, fax 0583 1770173. long rental beautifully restored Removals Local, National, European and International relocation 1500's residence of 533 mq on 2 service. Servicing the UK with regular trips every 2-3 weeks. Full floors: 5 large bedrooms, 4 ½ professional packing and export wrapping service. Friendly, baths, living rooms, kitchen. experienced, professional Kiwi service. Contact Richard at Beautiful panoramic view. The or 340 8748222. (Ref. 771)house has a dependance of 190 Landscape design & Garden maintenance mq. Ground floor: 2 bedrooms, 2 – Tommaso cell. (+39) 349 284 5399. (Ref. 572)baths, living room with open kitchen; first floor: large openspace with big furnished kitchen. Other accommodation available. I am 25 years old, University of Oregon student. I am fluent both in

Tel. +39 0583 349 007. (Ref. 1089) English and Italian and have studied German for 5 years. Lots of experi-ence babysitting. Cell 346 3233087, (Ref. 1099)

Old stone home, Compitese. 20 min. south of Lucca Centro. 3 bed- ESTATE SALE: Must sell near-new furnishings from Lucca home by rooms, A/C, bath, kitchen w/ fireplace, traditional style, beautiful March 30. Email for photos/prices of beds, views, peaceful garden. 130 sqm. Partly furnished. €900/month (1 dining table/chairs, bookcases, desk, lamps, bicycle, etc. (Ref. 1102)year min.). (Ref. 993) Moving sale Lucca Whole house contents of quality for sale For rent at beautiful Bagni Caldi (Bagni di Lucca), 80sqm apart- including antiques, wardrobes, piano, furniture, mirrors, paintings etc. ment. 3 bedrooms, 2 baths. Small private courtyard looking onto na- Please email for list. (Ref. 1100)ture. Partly furnished. 400 per month plus utilities. (Ref. 1090)Wanted: Immediate long term apartment rental in Lucca either inside or outside the walls. Single person. Superb references. Wired broad- ESSE range-hood 140 cm with Extractor Fan band ESSENTIAL. Tel: 346 279 5048. (Ref 1098) complete. Unwanted & never used. Best offer.

(Ref. 1097)

Translations Italian to English and English to Italian by experienced mother-tongue translators. Contact Grapevine (Ref. 817)Private Italian classes Italian woman, speaks fluent English, offers in- Grand house clearance sale including dividual/group lessons. Beginners, intermediate, advanced. Help with garden equipment and furniture as well interpreting and assistance with relocating. Can travel from Lucca. as everything you expect to find in the Anna Cell. 347 9194155 (Ref. 267) house together with several things which

you perhaps don't expect. Location: Borgo a Mozzano. Come and view and

Accountant Paola Girolami (Universities of Pisa and Bristol). Via Delle we'll haggle over the price. 329 0178001 Ville 354/A, Lucca. Tel 0583 471734, fax 0583 952349. (Ref. 1101)Accountants Vannucci & Associates. Viale San Concordio 710, 55100 Lucca. Tel. +39 0583 316636, fax: +39 0583 419451, email studio@vannuccieassociati.it - www.vannuccieassociati.it (Ref. 1103)Chiropractor Cynthia Christensen, DC. Esculapio Centro Medico. Viale S. Concordio 665, 55100 Lucca. Cell 340 4142329.Dental Surgeon Dr. Barbato & Dr. Cumbo. Via Fillungo 91, 55100 Lucca. Tel 0583 492853.Dental Surgeon Dr. Rogier Staal (University of Amsterdam). Via Farnesi 25a, Lucca. Tel and fax 0583 953633. Dutch/English/Italian/French/ German. Dental Surgeon Dr. Carlo G.F. Martini. Via Romana 231, 55100 Lucca. Tel 0583 467975, Lawyer Alberto Del Carlo. Admitted to the Italian High Courts Piazzale Ricasoli, 241 – 55100 Lucca. Tel. 0583 494952, fax 0583 492352. email

In the real estate field, Mr. Del Carlo is in strict con- Grapevine cannot evaluate all the advertisements on these pages nection with surveyors (geometri) who speak English fluently. and assumes no responsibility for their content.

avv.ilariacipriani@yahoo.it

transhipitalia@gmail.comlandscape.lucca@gmail.com

www.luccalandscape.it

info@tenutadiforci.itginna@uoregon.edu

luccaestate@gmail.com

leverwoman82@gmail.com

greg.vanni@hotmail.com

easylucca@gmail.com

rogierstaal.zandvoort@gmail.com

studiomartini@tin.it

avv.delcarloa@tin.it

DLM posset pot

The patio table exposed

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine February 2016 27

Design and installation gardens terraces and watering systems

Garden maintenanceTypical Tuscan gardens

tel 0583 316713Simone 335 8354437info@ilcerchioverde.itwww.ilcerchioverde.it

Il Cerchio Verde