gram magazine: may 2013 // edition 28

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This monthDid you know that carrots are part of the parsley family? They

are rich in a powerful antioxidant called beta-carotene too. Turn

the pages to read reviews of venues such as Circa, Top Paddock,

Hammer and Tong, Paco’s Tacos, Pinocchio and more, along with

our monthly wine reviews. Danielle Gullaci, Editor

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CAB AUDITED

SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON

CIRCA(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

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SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

There’s never a better excuse to splurge than with birthday celebrations…

Over the past few years there has been much change in the menu and

direction at Circa. While I cannot say I have witnessed the changes in

person, I have seen it through the eyes of other bloggers.

The current décor is well pared back, with an elegant colour scheme of

muted white, cream, black and timber. There are no white sheets in sight to

add to its carbon footprint. The menu by Paul Wilson and Jake Nicolson has

steered away from its origins, focusing more on Asian contemporary fusion

cuisine that sprawls across several menu categories that is largely designed

for sharing – yakitori; global street food; hot+cold+spicy; BBQ, feasting and

mains; and desserts.

Entrées/share plates

Much of the fun and excitement of dining at Circa lies in this part of the

menu. Not only are the flavours punchy and moreish, there is an element of

tactile stimulation requiring a few hand to mouth manoeuvres.

The juicy bites of soft and slightly sweet Fremantle octopus with native

dessert lime caramel for example is eaten straight off the wooden sticks.

The plump shrimps wrapped in delicately paper thin golden pastry has

to be dis-impaled with your fingers and dipped into the divine green tea

and sesame aioli. I cannot say how much I adored those shrimps. If not for

ordering half the menu already I would have gone for seconds and maybe

even thirds.

Despite deceptively appearing so elegant on the plates, both the wagyu

taco and lamb rib san choi bao require you to get your hands a little messy,

as both are full of juice that just uncontrollably oozes out. There is good

heat (i.e. spice) in the kim chi, and there is a nice balance of lightness in the

san choi bao.

When it came to the ocean trout tartare, I was already won over when I saw

taro chips. If you have never had taro then you are missing out. It works

CIRCA2 Acland Street, St Kilda. Ph: 9536 1122

ABOUT ALMOST ALWAYS RAVENOUSA twenty something year old Melbourne-born food lover, with the perpetual struggle

of juggling his life between a demanding day job, an insatiable appetite to eat and

satisfy a fastidious palate, and still find time to write a culinary journal and lead a

somewhat normal life. More often than not, the ravenous stomach prevails!

WWW.ALMOSTALWAYSRAVENOUS.WORDPRESS.COM

Words and photos by Almost Always Ravenous

THE PLUMP SHRIMPS WRAPPED IN DELICATELY PAPER THIN GOLDEN PASTRY HAS TO BE DIS-IMPALED WITH YOUR FINGERS AND DIPPED INTO THE DIVINE GREEN TEA AND SESAME AIOLI.

with just about anything – in spring rolls, in desserts, on their own – and of

course in this case it brings a bit of crunch and earthiness alongside the

tartare and caviar. Love it.

Finally, I had heard much acclaim for the rice cracker crusted spicy calamari

with seaweed aioli, and they did not disappoint. Give them a try and you

won’t be able to stop.

Mains

McIvor Farm Berkshire suckling pig with mango sweet ‘n’ sour, golden

beetroot and fresh lychees; Robata BBQ O’Connors grass fed sirloin, with

kimchi butter, exotic mushrooms and fried bread; and WA Patagonian

toothfish, sweet miso and black garlic.

These were quality mains with good crackling, beautiful charring with fine

use of caramelised mushrooms and onions, and even perfectly cooked fish.

But they just seem to lack that little X-factor that would bring silence to the

table. After all my foodie adventures, no matter how good the restaurant

is, there are few and far between that are able to preserve that very high

level of inspiration, creativity and sensory impact of entrées onto the mains

that follow. Circa comes close to escaping this notion, but not quite.

Puddings and Desserts

Native lemon aspen pavlova with hibiscus ripple ice cream and salted

caramel delice with boysenberry sorbet and macadamia crumble.

By this time, we (including me) were full to the brim. I can’t say I remember

much detail from the sweet section *cough, food coma*. Both desserts

were notably lighter, and more floral than I would usually like (or choose

in a sane state of mind for that matter). P.S. nothing further needs be said,

when I say the dessert selection here has been much applauded by Momo-

and-Coco.

Rating: Yummy+2. Circa is one of the few fusion-Asian cuisines in Melbourne

that I have thoroughly enjoyed. The food is creative, dotted with fun and

vibrancy and most certainly swoon worthy.

While personally I would like the mains turned up a notch, there is more

than enough to tantalise and satisfy from the less formal yakitori, global

street food and hot+cold+spicy sections of the menu. Overall there is little

to fault here, it’s definitely a keeper.

6

FINALLY, I HAD HEARD MUCH ACCLAIM FOR THE RICE CRACKER CRUSTED SPICY CALAMARI WITH SEAWEED AIOLI, AND THEY DID NOT DISAPPOINT. GIVE THEM A TRY AND YOU WON’T BE ABLE TO STOP.

CIRCA IS ONE OF THE FEW FUSION-ASIAN CUISINES IN MELBOURNE THAT I HAVE THOROUGHLY ENJOYED. THE FOOD IS CREATIVE, DOTTED WITH FUN AND VIBRANCY AND MOST CERTAINLY SWOON WORTHY.


HAMMER AND TONG(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

9


Random Fridays off work are the best. The best. Not just because it

means a three day weekend (and when is that going to be implemented

worldwide? I will join that movement) but because sometimes it means

that I get to have breakfast with my friend Em.

She lives east and I live west, so we try and meet in the middle which

generally means Fitzroy or Collingwood. Our latest breakfast was at

Hammer and Tong, courtesy of a suggestion from Brunch Queen.

Hammer and Tong opened in February in the spot where the short-lived

Brix was located. The room hasn’t changed much since Brix (minus the

mega massive pig statue) – it’s still a beautiful, bright room with large

windows and white brick walls.

It’s hard choosing what to eat when faced with options like coconut

black rice pudding with mango, or buttermilk pancakes with blueberries,

maple syrup and popping candy ice cream or truffled duck egg on toast.

Eventually I decided on the baked eggs in tomato fondue with chorizo,

manchego and flatbread ($17). It was nice. If I’m being super fussy

maybe the sauce could’ve used a touch more oomph. That’s just being

very critical though – it was a decent dish.

Em chose the scrambled eggs with brioche toast, haloumi and tomato

relish ($16). She commented that it was really good though she did get

a bit defeated by the haloumi.

We had a second round of coffees because we were busy chatting and

were given a couple of complimentary Italian doughnuts. Yum. Pretty

much a perfect doughnut – not too sweet or doughy.

Hammer and Tong was really pleasant – the food was good, staff were

lovely, and on a Friday morning it wasn’t too busy, which meant we had

lots of time and space for a lovely catch up. Huzzah for random work-

free Fridays.

HAMMER AND TONGRear 412 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy. Ph: 9041 6033

ABOUT AGNES HONI like to eat.

I like to cook.

I like to bake.

I like to blog.

I like the word spork.

WWW.OFFTHESPORK.COM

Words and photos by Off The Spork

Michael Salomone, award-winning roaster, has blended, stirred and developed some of Australia’s leading coffee brands for generations. Now he’s roasting independently just for you.

Ph:9335 4494 [email protected] 28 Assembly Dr, Tullamarine

Taste 44 years of locally roasted

coffee perfection CALL NOWfor yourFREE cafetrial pack

SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON TOP PADDOCK

(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

11


Back in 2011 I was in love with Three Bags Full; in fact, it was the first place

I reviewed on peach-water.com. One and a half years later, Three Bags Full

has been sold off; Two Birds One Stone has been open for eight months.

Now, Top Paddock is in the scene. I remembered following Top Paddock’s

twitter account from the very beginning and had been anticipating the

opening for quite some time.

In this blog post, I will provide two reviews – one on opening day and one a

couple of weeks later.

Visit #1: opening day

Oh boy was I excited! With great anticipation I drove all the way to Richmond

to visit Top Paddock. It was crazy hot and there was also a huge crowd.

As I had visited on my own, the wait time was quite minimal, and I was given

a bench seat outside.

To start off, I had a skinny latte.

When I was handed the menu, I studied it for a long while. There were so

many choices that it was extremely difficult to choose. So in the end, I chose

Top Paddock.

When my plate of food arrived it was accidentally given to a guy who sat next

to me. Later when the waitress left, the guy said to me, “You know, I wouldn’t

have minded saying the plate was mine, because that looks amazing.”

Trust me, this dish was phenomenal and I would strongly recommend it to

anyone who visits. It is a large dish, but worth going into a food coma for.

There are a lot of ingredients in this dish but I loved every bit of it:

1. House made sausage: At first I thought the sausage would be presented like

most cafés (the whole sausage), but here they presented it sliced. I adored

it. Slightly charred but tasted great. Full of flavour and slightly peppery.

2. Bacon: A lean piece of bacon that’s not too fatty. Perfect for someone like

me who dislikes fatty bacon. It’s very meaty mind you.

3. Adelaide green tomatoes: Oh these tomatoes are gems. Slightly tart-ish

and slightly sweet.

4. Pickled onions: These were pickled to perfection. I loved the tangy taste

and it went really well with the sausages.

5. Relish: I found the relish to be a bit on the sweet side, but I still enjoyed

eating it with the bacon.

6. Poached eggs: Two poached eggs and when I poked them, liquid gold

came out. Yum! Love my poached eggs.

Here comes the naughty bit. It was a hot day, I was extremely thirsty, but I

wanted something sweet.

I told the waitress that I wanted a strawberry milkshake, and she came back

with a mixed berry smoothie. When I told her, she said, “Oh sorry I forgot,

I assumed that you wanted a mixed berry smoothie because it’s healthy.”

Luckily it was a good drink and refreshing, so I didn’t care too much.

As if that mixed berry drink wasn’t enough sugar. Well… I ended up ordering

a cupcake, because it caught my attention when I walked into the café.

Unfortunately I was quite disappointed with the cupcake. The cupcake itself

was pretty moist, but it was the thick layer of overly sweet grainy icing that

ruined it. Having said that, it looked very pretty.

Overall experience (please note that this was their opening day that I

visited):

1. Service was rather lacking – forgetting the orders and delivering it to the

wrong table.

2. Food was amazing – great presentation and tasted great.

Visit #2: a re-visit with my girls

Not too long ago, my girls Julie, Lianne, Daisy, and Lianne’s sis-in-law

Melissa arranged a catch up at Top Paddock.

I know I had visited before, but I was keen to try again and see whether

there was an improvement in service.

TOP PADDOCK658 Church Street, Richmond. Ph: 9429 4332

ABOUT PEACH WATERProbably best described as a geek girl who is an avid and active video gamer, prone to carnivorous

cravings and mad for macarons and cupcakes. When she is not sampling the menu of Melbourne and

beyond, she takes delight in designing and progressing her design portfolio.

WWW.PEACH-WATER.COM

Words and photos by Peach Water

Has the service improved? Yes!

It was an extremely hot day, the sun was blazing and we chose to sit outside.

My main concern was getting a super tanned face, so the whole time I took

the menu to shield my face. I even joked with the waiter saying that I would

tip him more if he stood there to shield me from the sun.

As it was extremely sunny and we could barely see, we asked the waitress

to kindly move us to another table. In all honesty we probably should have

sat inside, as Julie and I were getting quite irritated by an annoying bee that

just wouldn’t leave us alone.

To start off with we all ordered our caffeine. I generally order a latte, but felt

like having a cappuccino, so I did.

Once again, I ended up being stumped choosing my dish. In the end I chose

a light dish – gin and lime cured ocean trout, with beetroot relish, potato

galette, poached eggs, leaves and goat’s curd with toast.

This dish is definitely a stunning looking dish, and is suited for someone

feeling peckish as it’s not overly heavy.

Gin and lime cured ocean trout: This cured ocean trout was delicious. You

cannot really taste the gin, but it had a very delicate yet tangy taste to it.

Beetroot Relish: The beetroot relish was placed on top of the ocean trout,

which gave the trout a weird sweetish taste. I would have preferred the relish

to be placed on the side of the dish to be honest.

Potato galettes: Cut into small cube bits, but a very floury potato. Loved it.

Julie who is a huge burger fan, ordered the soft shell Queensland crab roll

with fennel, dill and lime mayo in a brioche bun. Her roll looked amazing, and

they were very generous with the soft shell Queensland mud crab as well.

Melissa ordered the eggs benedict which is served with a tender hamhock,

and instead of hollandaise sauce they served it with bernaise.

My twinnie, Lianne, chose the white anchovies with jamon serrano with fried

eggs, pedron peppers and manchego on toast. I love the brown plate that

they used to serve this dish.

Our Sweet Queen, Daisy, chose the pulled pork on rye with prunes, leaves

and goat’s curd.

According to Daisy the pulled pork was not tender enough, but there was

so much pork included in her dish. I think Daisy was still sick on that day, so

she didn’t really enjoy it as much.

Overall experience:

1. Staff were very prompt, professional and friendly.

2. Food presentation was great.

12


Summary

The Beer and Burger Lounge occupies a large, bright and brand spanking

new fit out with contrasting white tiles on the business side and exposed

brick on the patrons’ side. As the name suggests, they offer a large range

of beers and wide variety of burgers including beef, chicken, veggie,

game, lamb, pork and salmon options. We grabbed a bar stool each and

surrounded a table within viewing distance of the open plan kitchen and

proceeded to watch the chef cook our burger with cheese, tomato jam,

mustard and gherkin.

THE BEER & BURGER LOUNGE112 Swan Street, Richmond. Ph: 9429 5934

ABOUT THE BURGER ADVENTUREThe Burger Adventure is a blog that reviews the best burgers from

Australia and around the world. Created by four guys with a passion

for beef, buns, cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion, egg, bacon and sauce.

WWW.THEBURGERADVENTURE.COM


THE BEER & BURGER LOUNGE(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

Words and photo by The Burger Adventure

14

15

64 Sutton Street, North Melbourne VIC 3051T 03 9322 4750 03 9322 4755 F 03 9322 4711

E [email protected]

K I T C H E N • P A N T R Y • S C H O O L

casabottega.com.au$195 per person $300 couple9am - 12 noonsaturday 1st June

ItalIan pastrycookIngexperIence

Comments

B – “When I heard the name ‘The Beer and Burger Lounge’ I had an

image in my head of a laid-back, cool and cosy spot with a cracking

range of beers, and couches as far as the eye could see. When I arrived

I will admit I was a little disappointed. It just really felt cold and boring

with a generic range of uninspiring beers. When the burger first turned

up to the table though I began to smile. This was a traditional looking

cheeseburger with a fluffy, soft seeded bun that held a thin and nicely

cooked beef pattie. All the other basics of tomato jam, crunchy and

tangy pickles and mustard were good quality. I also loved the golden

crispy onion ring sitting atop. All in all, a really good example of a

classic cheeseburger. I just wish I felt as comfortable as I should have in

a lounge.”

D – “Just a simple, sweet and soft burger experience. There was some

serious glare coming from the gloss of the bun that was just the ideal

size to keep everything together. Each ingredient worked well together

but was also strong enough to stand out in each bite: the spice of the

mustard, the sweetness of the tomato jam, the creaminess of the cheese

and the crisp coolness of the gherkin. Again, and much to my delight

(I can sense a bit of a trend at the moment), there was a delightful onion

ring on top.”

G – “A simple and easy burger to eat. Nothing complicated here, just

good old fashioned burgering (yeah that’s a word). The beef pattie was

perfect. It had a nice pinkish hue in the middle. The mustard and tomato

jam combined so well together, there wasn’t even any need to add any

more sauce as the balance of sweet and tang was faultless. The bun

was soft and perfectly sized for a single hand, and for that reason, I’m

calling it a great lunch time burger. It still allows you to pick up your

boss’ phone call while you’re at lunch. Or not. For $10 I’m definitely

going back again.”

Z – “When I’m given the option of cheese or no cheese, I’m always going

to pick cheese. There are so many more instances where you think,

‘This thing could do with some cheese’, rather than the contrary. So it

was an easy call for me to get the Cheeseburger. All the ingredients in

there were individually pretty darn good. Except when all together, they

didn’t play nice. Colonel Mustard and I are good mates and have shared

some memorable meals. But here, the bold condiment and its pickle

counterpart really took over any creaminess the cheese was trying to

deliver. The pattie was of a very high standard and had been cooked

with so much tender love. There was salt, juice and the right amount

of moo in each bite. I’d definitely be back, but to try this burger again

sans-mustard.”

EACH INGREDIENT WORKED WELL TOGETHER BUT WAS ALSO STRONG ENOUGH TO STAND OUT IN EACH BITE: THE SPICE OF THE MUSTARD, THE SWEETNESS OF THE TOMATO JAM, THE CREAMINESS OF THE CHEESE AND THE CRISP COOLNESS OF THE GHERKIN.

BURGER: SERVIETTES: DRESS CODE: SLEEPINESS: WOULD WE RECOMMEND: PRICE:

Cheeseburger 1 Smart casual 6 minutes Definitely $10


PACO’S TACOS(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

17


Hoorah for date nights! Since they are a bit hard to come by, Josh and

I decided to really party it up big… by going to the theatre. I know, old

age happens when you least expect it – with a young child. So to be able

to fit in dinner and a show, I was tossing up between a pre-theatre menu

somewhere nice or a tapas bar and by chance had a look on the MoVida

website which happens to also house Paco’s Tacos.

And since Mexican is, you know, in (how very 2012 of me), I drew Josh’s

attention to the MoVida Group’s new(ish) taqueria. The man I married,

unfortunately, had a childish streak that even a marriage to a mature, no

nonsense woman like me cannot cure. Okay, I may have encouraged this

one by saying ‘Paco’s Tacos’ in my silliest Mexican accent but once the

man got an idea into his head and especially when that idea was Paco’s

Tacos (say it with me in the lamest Mexican accent possible), it couldn’t

be scrubbed out.

So off to Paco’s Tacos. We went straight from work on a sweltering hot

day. It was a very pleasant day – being an undercover, outdoor venue,

it was a perfect day. It was hot but the cool change was just beginning

to come in, hot enough to still enjoy their Pimm’s Fruit Cup but cool

enough to be comfortable. What can I say? I love me cheap, fruity

cocktails.

Never mind that it was 5.45pm and the after-work drink crowd was still

going in full force, we proceeded to get into the tacos (did I mention

we’re old?) since we wanted to take a leisurely stroll to the State Theatre

to pick up our tickets and catch the 7.30pm Warhorse show. So after I

went through my drink, we started ordering tacos – two at a time.

First up were Carne Asada and Pescado – i.e. a meat taco and a fish taco.

PACO’S TACOSLevel 1, 500 Bourke Street, Melbourne. Ph: 9663 3038

ABOUT SPATULA, SPOON AND SATURDAYKat started her ‘fabulous food porn blog’ while working in Singapore as a SAP consultant because ‘everyone has a food

blog in Singapore’. Over time, it evolved into a blog about restaurant reviews, travelling and recipes from her home-

cooking experiments. Kat lives with her family in Melbourne where she finds it to be too cold but loves it anyway. She has

no ambition other than to ensure her child is capable of eating ridiculously spicy food.

WWW.SPATULASPOONANDSATURDAY.COM

Words and photos by Spatula, Spoon and Saturday

Corporate Catering?

nashi.com.au

Fresh from the Nashi kitchen

Bloomer SandwichesCollins Place | 357 Collins Street | Bourke Place | CBW, Goldsborough Lane | Freshwater Place

Dorcas Street, South Melbourne | SX2, Southern Cross Lane | Myer Head Office, Docklands | The Rialto The Jam Factory, Chapel Street | Coming soon Collins Square

THE MEAT WAS QUITE NICE AND TENDER AND THE SPICY SAUCE (DESCRIBED AS BRAISED BEEF, PICA DE GALLO, PICKLED CACTUS AND CHIPOTLE SAUCE ON THE MENU) WORKED WELL.

The meat was quite nice and tender and the spicy sauce (described as

braised beef, pica de gallo, pickled cactus and chipotle sauce on the

menu) worked well. The fish, on the other hand, was a little bit on the

disappointing side. Slightly bland and underwhelming.

But why stop at two? (As you will find out, we only stopped after six and

two side dishes.) Next up, I ordered the BBQ corn, which we also quite

enjoyed as an intermission to the taco craziness that we were about to

continue on.

The prawn tacos, I’m happy to report, tasted much better than they

looked – good balance of prawns, cabbage and pepitas adding a good

crunch. The salsa verde was also complimentary. Our next up was my

personal favourite, the chorizo tacos. I’m quite partial to the strong,

spicy chorizo with lots of zesty cabbage and the corn salsa balanced

out the flavours nicely.

I also interrupted going through the entire menu with the chicharrones

– which is basically the Latin American answer to pork crackling. The

picture doesn’t quite do it justice but it was basically a massive pile of

crunchy fried air. That’s right, it was so fluffy and light, it was almost like

eating air. I loved it. Let’s face it here, it’s deep fried pig’s skin – what is

not to like? The next table was so intrigued after seeing it (it was quite

impressive looking) but once they found out it was deep fried pig’s skin,

they ordered nachos instead. Disappointing.

The last few tacos went by as a bit of blue as by this point I was getting

full and starting to give up. Josh on the other hand was still going. He

ordered a serve of the chicken taco (pollo) which was also served with

the pickled cabbage. He liked this one so much, he ordered another

one. By this time I had given up completely and contemplated going

over to MoVida for a couple of rounds of dessert but unfortunately had

no room left in my stomach. So we left and took a needed walk to the

State Theatre in Southbank.

Overall, while the tacos weren’t blow-your-mind-wow, they are

cheap(ish) and decently prepared. We thoroughly enjoyed our visit.

A great place to go for a few drinks and to pick up a few tacos (or

massively puffed up pig’s skin) on a lovely day.

18

THE PRAWN TACOS, I’M HAPPY TO REPORT, TASTED MUCH BETTER THAN THEY LOOKED – GOOD BALANCE OF PRAWNS, CABBAGE AND PEPITAS ADDING A GOOD CRUNCH.

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21


I wasn’t raised a vegetarian, so the soup that was a staple in my house

growing up was my mum’s chicken noodle soup. It’s one of those dishes I

will forever associate with afternoons in bed with a cold watching The Bold

and the Beautiful. Chicken noodle soup and Tim Tams seemed to be able

to fix everything.

Once I became a vegetarian I was at a bit of a loss when it came to what

to eat when feeling sick or just when the weather was poos and I wanted

a bowl of something warm as I hid under the doona in front of the TV. Of

course there are heaps of veggie soup options, but none of them had that

homely flavour that comes with food infused with memories.

Fortunately, my mother-in-law came to the rescue. Whenever we go to

Canberra to visit there always seems to be a pot of barley and veggie soup

on the stove for emergencies. It might sound odd but anyone who has ever

had three growing boys in their house is used to the need for giant pots

of filling food to be at hand at all times. While the need for the soup is

no longer informed by growing pains, this soup always makes a welcome

appearance to line our bellies before we head off to a wedding or when

we arrive home in need of some sobering assistance. Years of eating it

have now created their own memories and the perfect replacement for my

mother’s chicken noodle soup.

I make this soup in two stages: stage one is the base soup, primarily made

up of barley, carrots and stock, which I make up in a big batch then portion

out. Most of this is then frozen for easy access when I am sick or stuck back

at work. Stage two is quick and simple, just heat and add the veggies and

seasoning. I have listed the veggies I tend to use but you can add whatever

you like – frozen peas, capsicum, broccoli… whatever you have in your fridge,

the more colourful the better. The motivation for this latest giant batch is

my impending first born. Apparently cooking is not going to feature heavily

in my future, at least not for the first six weeks I have been told.

RECIPE: BARLEY AND VEGGIE SOUP

ABOUT VORACIOUS VEG I am a vegetarian with a voracious appetite. I live in Melbourne and grew up

working in restaurants. I love to cook as much as I love to eat. A vegetarian

since 2010, I believe food can and always should be delicious, nutritious,

adventurous and ethical. I blog about my favourite recipes.

WWW.VORACIOUSVEG.COM

Recipe and photos by Voracious Veg

ONCE I BECAME A VEGETARIAN I WAS AT A BIT OF A LOSS WHEN IT CAME TO WHAT TO EAT WHEN FEELING SICK OR JUST WHEN THE WEATHER WAS POOS AND I WANTED A BOWL OF SOMETHING WARM AS I HID UNDER THE DOONA IN FRONT OF THE TV.

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22

INGREDIENTS

For the soup base (makes about 4 good sized portions)

1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 large brown onion, diced

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 carrots, sliced

3-4 bay leaves

250g pearl barley

3 cups vegetable stock

Salt

Parmesan rinds (optional)

Veggie filling (per person)

75g tinned borlotti beans, drained and rinsed

4 cherry tomatoes

2 mushrooms, sliced

¼ zucchini, sliced

English spinach, washed and roughly torn

Salt and pepper

Chilli flakes

Fresh basil leaves

Parmesan (optional)

METHOD

Heat 1 tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil in a heavy-based soup pot on a

medium heat. Add the diced onion, garlic, carrot and 3 or 4 bay leaves.

Lightly fry the vegetables for 2-3 minutes, making sure they don’t colour.

Wash the pearl barley, drain well and stir into the pot. Add enough stock to

cover everything by 3-4 centimetres, about 2 cups. Raise the temperature

and bring to the boil. Then as soon as it boils, turn down to a simmer and

add a couple of pinches of salt.

If you have any left over rinds from your Parmesan cheese throw them into

the pot as well. Yes it sounds weird but I do hold onto mine specifically for

this purpose. They add a delicious rich flavour and slight creaminess to the

soup as it cooks.

Leave the soup simmering for about 25 minutes until the barley softens.

Add additional stock as required. Basically you want the barley covered at

all times with the stock.

Once the barley is cooked, turn off the heat and portion out the soup. I

put a portion in a pot for my dinner and individually portion the remainder

of the soup into take away containers for freezing. If I have a big bunch

of English spinach I will add some of that, raw, to the containers prior to

freezing.

To finish the soup, add the remaining stock to your portion in the pot and

make it as soupy as you like. Then throw your cherry tomatoes, mushrooms,

borlotti beans, zucchini and spinach in with your soup base and heat on a

medium flame for about 7-10 minutes until the tomatoes have softened and

the veggies are cooked through.

Serve in a bowl, seasoned with salt, pepper, chilli flakes, fresh

basil leaves and Parmesan cheese. Super delicious, healthy, full of

protein and nice and warming to get you through that cold or just

that cold night.

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PINOCCHIO(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

25


Turning off Chapel Street we break into a light jog along Toorak Road – it

is pouring with rain and we are tempted to dive into the tried and tested

spice temple that is Dainty Sichuan. But we persevere, passing South

Yarra station (a first for us – we normally catch a glimpse of France Soir

as we scooter by, but have never really explored this stretch) and reach

our destination feeling more than a little bit bedraggled.

Happily, within seconds we are seated – him with a tumbler of Negroni,

her with a 250ml carafe of Sangiovese – phew. Now a quick word about

serving sizes and wine. Sometimes, 150ml just doesn’t do the job, but

ordering more than a couple of glasses of wine feels excessive. And

sometimes you want the same wine as your co-eater, but aren’t sure you

can stretch to a bottle. Hoorah then for the tiny handful of restaurants

that offer carafes. With 250ml and 500ml serves available, the gap

between one glass and one bottle is bridged perfectly. The Negroni

slips down a treat and is swiftly followed by a stronger Negroni (thanks

bar people) and a Bugiardo (gin, Campari, chinotto, orange), which

apparently means ‘liar’ in Italian. Although I have always found three

cocktails in quick succession tend to have an opposite affect, but each

to their own.

In between trips to the bathroom to dry our hair, clothes and shoes, and

downing drinks while agonising over a menu on which everything looks

amazing, we do manage to take in our surrounds. The décor is clean

and crisp – sketches and lines of text chart the classic tale of Pinocchio

(the story by Carlo Collodi published in 1883, not the Disney derivation)

and the idea of an artist’s studio is conveyed by the wall-mounted desk

lamps (you know, the ones with the bending arms, like in the Pixar

opening logo). The space manages to look modern and homely all at

the same time – Melbourne’s funky take on the traditional trattoria.

Our waitress, Francesca, deserves a shout out. Just six weeks into her

international adventures – she hails from Le Marche – Francesca was

a great source of information on regional specialities and ingredients.

She also guided us through the menu in our moments of indecision

– suggesting we start with an antipasti plate of pecorino, chunks of

salty parmigiano, salami, San Daniele prosciutto, plump olives and

caperberries. Accompanied by triangles of herby, fluffy focaccia, all our

happy aperitivo memories of travelling in Italy came flooding back.

Why haven’t we heard about this place before? How has a restaurant

so welcoming, serving food so tasty, completely escaped our notice?

We were beginning to doubt our food blogger credentials, when

owner Renato came to our rescue explaining that Pinocchio’s previous

incarnation was not as attractive as it is today. A bit dark, a bit behind

the times, in need of a makeover. An honest critique, but this cheerful

Italian clearly has nothing to worry about now.

Next, a selection of small dishes to share – ‘cicchetti’. Panino di agnello

(sticky pulled lamb shoulder in a soft little panino with garlic aioli) and

fiori di zucca (zucchini flowers stuffed with burrata and Morton Bay

bugs, with a saffron aioli).

Flavourful crushed tomatoes really helped in the lamb dish, as the

meat was super rich and dense (in a good way), while the zucchini

flowers were a lighter contrast with the sweet seafood flavour working

brilliantly with the creamy aioli and melted cheese. Delicately battered

and perfectly cooked, we could have happily worked our way through

the whole section of this menu, but decided instead to press on.

PINOCCHIO152 Toorak Road, South Yarra. Ph: 9867 2772

ABOUT SHARKING FOR CHIPS AND DRINKSSharking for Chips and Drinks is a writer-photographer team that relocated from

London to Melbourne last year, and soon found themselves falling for the city’s coffee,

brunch and bar scenes – and every meal in between. While Melbourne is the main

focus, the pair regularly venture far and wide across Australia, Asia and, of course, their

old stomping ground in the UK.

WWW.SHARKINGFORCHIPSANDDRINKS.WORDPRESS.COM

Words and photos by Sharking For Chips and Drinks

FLAVOURFUL CRUSHED TOMATOES REALLY HELPED IN THE LAMB DISH, AS THE MEAT WAS SUPER RICH AND DENSE (IN A GOOD WAY), WHILE THE ZUCCHINI FLOWERS WERE A LIGHTER CONTRAST WITH THE SWEET SEAFOOD FLAVOUR WORKING BRILLIANTLY WITH THE CREAMY AIOLI AND MELTED CHEESE.

ONCE IN A WHILE, YOU STUMBLE UPON A PLACE THAT GENUINELY IMPRESSES – A PLACE YOU KNOW YOU WILL REVISIT TIME AND TIME AGAIN REGARDLESS OF GLITZY NEW OPENINGS.

On to the pastas and a plate of agnolotti to share – a further dose of

Morton Bay bugs and burrata wrapped in squid ink pasta and served in

a rich lobster sauce with fresh peas that were bursting with just cooked,

pop-in-your-mouth perfection. Worth pointing out that larger serves for

parties of two, three or four people can also be whipped up. Useful to

know. Oh, and the pizzas can be prepared as half yard or yard length on

a wooden plank.

It was a tough choice, but we decided to go for a pizza over one of the

secondi dishes, although passing up the special – pork shoulder braised

in Peroni Reserva beer with parmesan polenta – was a bit heartbreaking.

With more than 20 pizzas to choose from (not to mention bianca and

calzone options) we were won over by the diavola – a yellow San Marzano

tomato base (sweeter than the traditional red Roma variety) with hot

N’duja salami (traditionally from Calabria, but Matt the chef sources his

from a guy in Byron Bay), buffalo mozzarella and wild rocket. It really

is very spicy, but too good to stop eating for a sip of water. After being

caught out in the rain this is the perfect way to ward off any unwanted

bouts of flu – it’s pizza to put hairs on your chest. We shared a regular

(all are under $20 – bargain) but all pizzas are also available as ‘large’.

We often fret about pizza bases being soggy, but we had no cause for

concern here – some of the best pizzas in the city and cheaper than

many of the more well-known places. Win!

Just when we thought we couldn’t go on and were contemplating a

wobbly passeggiata home, the chef’s dessert tasting plate happened.

Chocolate cannolo, crostata di limoni (wood-fired lemon tart with

vanilla mascarpone) and panna cotta were gone before you could say

‘Geppetto’.

Once in a while, you stumble upon a place that genuinely impresses

– a place you know you will revisit time and time again regardless of

glitzy new openings. With 40 years already under their belt, the team at

Pinocchio finally have the space they deserve to really shine. And that’s

no lie. (Stop groaning – nearly 1000 words and only one Pinocchio-

related cliché? Consider yourself lucky. I had a whole load of stuff about

being a ‘real boy’ and ‘got wood’ lined up…)

By the way – for die-hard Baysiders, there is another Pinocchio located

in Hampton.

26


8 DAYS CAFÉ(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

29


As is quite often with retired sporting figures, they venture into the

hospitality world in the bar and pub scene. Not so with Ruaraidh Gunn,

former professional ‘real tennis’ (grass tennis) player.

He has gone out on a limb from his sporting brothers and sisters and

opened up 8 Days, a café and roastery based at High Street, Armadale.

When I first saw the name of the café, I immediately assumed that it was

because Gunn was a Beatles Fan but upon more research, discovered

that Gunn named his first venture after what he believes is the optimum

time to grind coffee beans after roasting. So, there you go.

At 8 Days Café, coffee beans are roasted by Five Senses then ground by

the team at 8 Days, eight days later (duh!).

The Boy and I decided to head there one morning as we were being our

usual indecisive selves. The Boy asked me what I would like to have for

breakfast, which roughly translates to: “I am too lazy to think, you better

come up with a good option that’s not too far away”. I translate husband

speak quite well.

Luckily for me, 8 Days had been on my radar as we had been tweeting

each other (don’t you just love technology) and they were the first place

that I could think of to suggest. So off we went. The problem with High

Street in Armadale is the lack of available parking in that area. We circled

for a good 20 minutes before finding an off-street park, which was just as

well as we were just about ready to give up and turn around elsewhere.

As we walked into the café, we noticed that the interior was quite dark.

So, as a major sacrifice to you (my dear readers), I convinced The Boy

that we needed to sit outside in the cold so that our pictures would turn

out better. The things I do for you.

Fantastically for me, as part of the great service, the team at 8 Days

provided me with a fleece blanket (a whole basket to choose from

actually). So I was mostly warm while we lounged outside eating our

brunch.

The coffees were well brewed and we enjoyed our lattes as we relaxed

and chatted away outside. I was feeling quite comfortable and contented

with my warm blanket.

The Boy had the wagyu beef burger ($21.00) – brioche bun, gruyere

cheese, smoked bacon, tomato relish and sliced pickles with fat chips,

crisp baby cos, tomato and aioli, which he quite enjoyed. He loved the

idea of using gruyere cheese in the burger.

All I wanted for breakfast that morning was bacon. So I ordered the

smashed avocado and Persian fetta on six grain toast with smoked

bacon and poached eggs ($18.00) which was mighty delicious and just

what I needed on that cold and wet morning.

Come here if you need to relax after a hard morning of shopping on

High Street, if you’re with your mates catching up or if you need some

good family time (the place is big enough and friendly enough for kids

of all ages).

They also do dinners and late nights from Wednesdays to Fridays.

Take note that they do not do split bills or make variations to items on

the menu on weekends.

Disclaimer: All food ratings and review are purely based on my own

experiences and how I feel about the service, food and quality at the

time of visit.

Food/Cuisine: Breakfast, modern Australian

Dining Style: Café and roastery

8 DAYS CAFÉ1184 High Street, Armadale. Ph: 9500 9711

ABOUT MS I-HUA A collaborative blog between the Boy and Ms I-Hua on their eating and traveling

adventures in Melbourne.

WWW.MSIHUA.COM

Words and photo by Ms I-Hua and The Boy

31


Bodegas del Palacio de Fefiñanes Albariño 2011

The white grape variety Albariño has been around for a long time. It

originated in both north-eastern Portugal (where is it called Alvarinho)

and the far corner of north-western Spain in the autonomous community

of Galicia. Historical records from Galicia mention the Albariño grape back

in 1843 and vineyards have even been discovered with vine age ranging

from 200 to 300 years. Fascinating stuff.

Fefiñanes is a benchmark producer for the Albariño grape, having

pioneered it for nearly 100 years in the Rias Baixas wine zone. The wines

are made in a beautiful palace built in the 16th century in the centre of

Cambados.

This Albariño opens aromatically with green apple, pear and some sweet

floral notes reminiscent of the native white frangipani. The palate has a

rich round flavour of rockmelon, yellow flowers with hints of rocket and

mint. The mineral tones and zippy acidity complemented my dinner of

a simple seafood spaghetti marinara using fresh ingredients and loaded

with plenty of garlic and parsley. Your romantic dinner date may not

approve of all that garlic and seafood, but the wine most certainly will.

De Bortoli Vinoque Nebbiolo 2011

I met Andrew Bretherton and his bushy beard back in 2011 when we partook

in a scholarship for Italian wine aficionados. For two days we sipped the

finest the country had to offer and shared our mutual adoration for all

things Italiano. Fast-forward a couple of years and Andrew had this bottle

of Nebbiolo to share after tinkering away on this project at his workplace,

De Bortoli winery. Fruit for this wine was sourced from the Wood vineyard,

a warmer site in the Yarra Valley.

The Vinoque Nebbiolo has the characteristic pale red, almost rosé like

hue. Its perfume is intoxicating with a mix of aromas that had me picturing

a butcher shop scattered with roses. There are also some spice and smoky

elements that blend nicely with the overriding floral aromas. The palate

continues with a dominating savoury character: fresh meat flavours, an

earthy backbone, moderate acidity, gliding tannins and a flourish of rose

petal to finish. The second day saw this wine hold up wonderfully well.

To be fair, it lacks the power and ripe tannins of a typical Piedmontese

Langhe Nebbiolo, however it is a very smart effort on Australian soil from

the De Bortoli team. Bravo.

Syrahmi Finesse Shiraz 2011

Mother Nature dictates success or failure for many working in agricultural

industries. It’s no different for those in wine. Each morning in the lead

up to harvest, grape growers and winemakers look worryingly to the

sky, sometimes praying for rain and sometimes for sunshine. In the case

of the year 2011, Mother Nature was a temperamental lady and created

undesirably wet conditions for many across the nation. Fortunately for

modern technology, wineries found themselves able to salvage what

good fruit they had left and make a wine that speaks of the vintage. This

is important because wine is a product of nature and should not always

taste the same.

Finesse is the current Shiraz release by winemaker of Syrahmi and maker

of salami, Adam Foster. The fruit was sourced from Heathcote in central

Victoria. On the back of the wine label Adam defines Finesse with two

possible meanings:

1. Refinement and delicacy of performance, execution, or artisanship.

2. Skillful, subtle handling of a situation: tactful, diplomatic maneuvering.

I decided to look at the wine to gain a better understanding. The perfume

was intriguingly reminiscent of deliciously grilled vegetables seasoned

with black pepper and dusted with crushed minerals. The palate showed

surprising depth of fruit, fresh acidity, substantial texture, rounded tannins

and lingering spice and cedar notes to finish. The conclusion? Adam has

carefully made a delicate expression of a Heathcote Shiraz and Finesse

perfectly demonstrates how you can make the best out of a meagre situation.

WINE REVIEWS

FORTUNATELY FOR MODERN TECHNOLOGY, WINERIES FOUND THEMSELVES ABLE TO SALVAGE WHAT GOOD FRUIT THEY HAD LEFT AND MAKE A WINE THAT SPEAKS OF THE VINTAGE. THIS IS IMPORTANT BECAUSE WINE IS A PRODUCT OF NATURE AND SHOULD NOT ALWAYS TASTE THE SAME.

Words and photo by Krystina Menegazzo

ABOUT KRYSTINA MENEGAZZOLa Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this young lady from Melbourne who worked in wineries

throughout Australia and Italy. After years of gallivanting she returned to Melbourne to market

wine and share her love of all things vinous. In her spare time she enjoys cooking, gardening,

drinking good vino and is a self-confessed Neb Head (someone really into Nebbiolo).

WWW.LADONNADELVINO.COM

Monday - Friday: 7am - 4.30pmPh: 9686 3444181 Ferrars St, South Melbourne, VIC 3205

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