graduated bob

Registered Office: 10 Overcliffe, Gravesend, Kent DA11 0EF,UK Registered in England & Wales No. 6366273

HeadBlock Basics a step by step guide from Stacey Broughton

Graduated Bob

HeadBlock Basics—July 2010 Step by Step—p1

© My Hairdressers Ltd

Graduated Bob

Welcome to HeadBlock Basics

This area of learning has been designed as

an entry platform, an educators training tool and for a true understanding of the principles of cutting hair. Headblocks are used globally as teaching tools because of many factors including convenience of time allowing for a natural learning pace. 90% of students use head blocks as their start point into our profession or to try something new.

The graduated bob is a vital part of any hairdressing training. This method starts with a vertical section from crown to nape which acts as a guide for the entire shape and ensures the correct balance of graduation throughout. —Stacey Broughton � In each of our HeadBlock step-by-step guides you will also find accompanying Head Sheets in the Appendix at the back of the guide.

Use this step-by-step guide as a supplement to our online HeadBlock Basics video...

About Stacey

Directional, inspirational work comes as

standard from Stacey who has further

liberated his skills at

myhairdressers.com, after many years

as Creative Director of the Vidal Sassoon Advanced Academy.

As Education Director at

myhairdressers.com he is forging fresh

paths in his own creativity while sharing

his love of education on a global stage.

Find out more about Stacey on our

website.



Graduated Bob

Before You will re-cut your previously cut one-length bob on your head block making good use of this resource.

Step 1 Begin by creating a horse shoe section following the curve of the head and incorporating the crown. Notice the parting will be inside the top section and will be placed at a later stage.

Step 2 Next work with the interior guideline from crown to nape vertically to ensure balance of the graduation.



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Step 3 The first guideline is cut to assess movement and texture - leave it longer than desired to accommodate hair type. You can then visually assess and adjust the balance of graduation to suit the hair quality and bone structure. Please notice how Stacey angles his fingers inwards slightly to avoid creating a step.

Step 4 Please notice how Stacey checks his graduation guide to ensure it remains below the occipital bone. Going above the bone will distort and flatten the shape.

Step 5 Now work with diagonal sections pivoting from the occipital bone. Continue in this manner until you reach the desired angle in the side. Then continue with parallel sections. Notice the section mirrors the cutting angle.



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Step 6 Once you have established the desired angle, repeat this process on the second side for accuracy.

Step 7 Cross check your work technically and visually to maintain balance. Please note the perimeter will be refined after the internal shape is achieved.

Step 8 Now revise Stacey’s method and try on your own block being mindful of the following points to watch: Points to watch; 1) Ensure the fingers are angled evenly into the nape to accommodate a flowing graduation between top and bottom lengths.



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Step 9 Points to watch; 2) Pivot your sections from the occipital area until you reach your desired angle, which is just below the ear.

Step 10 Points to watch; 3) At this point don’t worry about the outline, as it will be refined at a later stage.

Step 11 Points to watch; 4) To ensure even balance on both sides, work three sections on one side then move to the other side.



Graduated Bob

Step 12 Points to watch; 5) Check your balance technically and visually.

Step 13 Next, work from the back into the side areas maintaining the desired angle and working through to the horseshoe section Remember to maintain consistent finger and body angles when working from the guide in the nape over the ear into the jaw line. Stacey's angle is gradually moved forwards with minimal over direction. He employs slight elevation in the back area which decreases as he reaches his front outline.

Step 14 To promote graduation, twist the hair a fraction to allow your finger placement to lay close to the skin. This technique also accommodates the hairline perimeter around the ear area and into the front.



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Step 15 Continue with this technique to the top of the ear using parallel sections and the previous sections as a guide.

Step 16 Repeat this process on the second side staying mindful of your finger and body angles. Working with small amounts of sections alternating between sides provides the base for good balance and flow of graduation.

Step 17 Next, check your work using a strand from the top of the completed sections on both sides. Be aware of growth patterns in the hair.



Graduated Bob

Step 18 Now, work up to middle of the section checking that you work parallel to the cutting line with correct elevation and over-direction. Stacey chooses to run these sections into the front ensuring a fluid balance from back to front. Repeat this process on the second side using the underneath as a guide and maintaining accurate tension, elevation and over-direction.

Step 19 Having completed the mid-sections, check and refine your work. Checking your work in key stages allows for quick and continued adjustment.

Step 20 Continue this process through to the top of the sections. Please note the section slightly narrows towards the front. Be mindful to maintain the correct angle.



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Step 21 Repeat this process on the second side and cross check your work in the opposite direction diagonally.

Step 22 Now revise Stacey’s method and try on your own block, being mindful of the following points to watch: Points to watch; 1) Ensure your sections run parallel to your cutting angle.

Step 23 Points to watch; 2) Ensure your fingers are pointing in the direction of the jaw, mirroring the section to attain correct elevation.



Graduated Bob

Step 24 Points to watch; 3) Avoid too much over-direction backwards, instead follow the head shape around towards the jaw line.

Step 25 Points to watch; 4) If doubtful about the amount of elevation, leave it heavier and refine once dry.

Step 26 Once dry, refine the outline perimeter using a combination of free-hand techniques. Ensure that the hair is laying in its natural position and work with the side outline first. This will enable you to attain the correct balance over the ear, which then runs down into the nape.



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Step 27 Work with a pointing technique to refine the outline. Start in the centre-back and work to the back of the ear connecting to the guide.

Step 28 Bring down the top section to connect, place the parting and, using diagonal sections from the front, connect the top into the underneath leaving out the crown, which will later be blended visually.

Step 29 Proceed using a diagonal section from the low side of the parting and work back to just before the crown using the underneath section as a guide. This allows you to achieve correct weight and elevation. Leave this section slightly longer to accommodate hair type.



Graduated Bob

Step 30 Cross check diagonally in the opposite direction moving forwards to allow you to refine the balance.

Step 31 Repeat this process on the heavier side of the parting. Please note, Stacey employs his twisting technique again to ensure the correct mirrored angle.

Step 32 Cross check diagonally to refine. Please note, the sections run towards the front hairline in the opposite direction.



Graduated Bob

Step 33 Now revise Stacey’s method and try on your own block being mindful of these points to watch: Points to watch; 1) Ensure correct parting placement.

Step 34 Points to watch; 2) When connecting, be mindful of the correct elevation and finger angle.

Step 35 Points to watch; 3) Cross check in the opposite direction to ensure correct balance.



Graduated Bob

Step 36 Use free-hand techniques to remove excess length in the crown area. Then, blow-dry the hair and refine the crown. Please note, when blow-drying it is essential to work in a similar pattern to your cutting methods and to start with the underneath hair.

Step 37 Refine the internal graduation with the disconnected area in the crown using a pointing technique. Pointing is a technique used to reduce subtle amounts of weight, where the blades are closed in a downward direction.

Step 38 Finally, elevate the hair and refine the internal blend to achieve a looser result on the technical shape.



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Finish This completes Stacey's process.

Head Sheet Diagrams �

HeadBlock Basics—July 2010 APPENDIX A


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Head Sheet Diagram A

Top Section A simple horseshoe section is all that is needed as a starting point

for this graduated bob [�step 1]



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Head Sheet Diagram B

First Guideline This is the interior guideline that will take you from crown to nape

ensuring an even balance of graduation [�step 2]



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Head Sheet Diagram C

Nape Sectioning In this section establish nape area balance on both sides

using the guide from the centre [�step 7]



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Head Sheet Diagram D

Side Section Next, work from the back into the side areas maintaining the desired angle and

working through to the horseshoe section [�step 13]



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Head Sheet Diagram E

Side Section Once dry, refine your outside perimeter by removing

unwanted graduation [�step 26]



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Head Sheet Diagram F

Top Connection Bring down the top section to connect, place the parting and use diagonal sections from

the front to connect the top to the underneath, leaving out the crown which will later be blended in visually

[�step 28]



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Head Sheet Diagram G

Side Section The final shape

Registered Office: 10 Overcliffe, Gravesend, Kent DA11 0EF,UK Registered in England & Wales No. 6366273

My Hairdressers Limited 1231-1233 London Road Leigh on Sea Essex SS9 3JA United Kingdom T +44 (0) 1702 719 132 E [email protected] W www.myhairdressers.com

graduated bob

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