genencare™ osms unlocking the power of...

GENENCARE™ OSMS unlocking the power of nature

Piera Pericu

DuPont Industrial Biosciences

Sepawa, 16th April 2015

1 Copyright © 2015 DuPont. All rights reserved

Protection: a global perspective

OF WOMEN USE A MOISTURIZER

TO COUNTER THE EFFECTS OF

POLLUTION ON THEIR SKIN Source: MINTEL REPORTS, FACIAL SKINCARE- UK May 2014

28%

In UK

OF CONSUMERS OF 20-49 CONCERN ABOUT POLLUTION Source: MINTEL REPORT, REGIONAL LIFESTYLES - CHINA, DECEMBER 2013

41%

In China

2 Copyright © 2015 DuPont. All rights reserved Copyright © 2015 DuPont. All rights reserved

Protection in Hair Care

3

Hair care companies have been inspired by skin care innovations and have launched products specifically for the scalp, using many popular

ingredients from skin care.

Hair end care should follow the path opened by scalp care, with manufacturers

developing entire ranges of products dedicated to that issue.

End treatment demand is set to be particularly high in regions where consumers

tend to straighten hair, either by chemical action with perms and relaxants or by

heat action with hair care appliances. Therefore, products targeting damaged

ends are set to be particularly popular in North America, MEA and Latin America.

Source: Euromonitor int, Ingredient trends in haircare Nov 2014 Copyright © 2015 DuPont. All rights reserved

Osmolytes: Control of water balance in living cells

HYPERTONIC ENVIRONMENT High solute (salt) content outside cells

Water leakage

Increase of osmolytes transport

to transport water and re-inflate

SHRUNKEN

H2O

ISOTONIC ENVIRONMENT

Water balance

No water exchange needed

NORMAL

H2O H2O

HYPOTONIC ENVIRONMENT High solute (sugar) content inside cells

Water intake

Release of osmolytes to get

the water out

LYSED

H2O


Osmolytes: Protein stabilizing effect

Protein/peptide backbone is “osmophobic”.

In the unfolded state, the protein backbone interacts directly with

surrounding water (high enthalpy state).

In osmolyte solution, the unfolded state is very unfavorable.

Osmolytes, by attracting water, increase thermodynamic stability of the

native folded state of the proteins (∆G<0).

Osmolytes cause proteins to fold and stabilize their native, functional

3-D conformation, without direct interaction with the protein.

Protein in the Native folded state MORE STABLE

Protein in the Unfolded state LESS STABLE

Water molecules Osmolytes

Exposed

peptide

backbone

Role of naturally occuring osmolytes in protein folding and stability 2009 5 Copyright © 2015 DuPont. All rights reserved

GENENCARE™ OSMS description

GENENCARE™ OSMS BA

INCI name : Betaine

Chemical Description: Trimethylglycine

Small amino acid derivative: stable zwitterion

(dipolar ion) in neutral pH

Naturally present in the cells of living organism

(plant, animals)

Very hydrophilic, readily soluble in water

Actively transported in/out (skin)cells

GENENCARE™ OSMS MI

INCI name: Inositol

Chemical Description : Myo-inositol

White odorless crystalline powder

Natural occurring osmolyte (animals, plants)

Other cosmetic uses : moisturizer, sebum control,

anti-oxidant, foam booster

Involved in many biological processes (IP3; PDGF)

6

Betaine Chemical description

Copyright © 2015 DuPont. All rights reserved

GENENCARE ™ OSMS Benefit Matrix

Maintain skin

moisture balance

HAIR COLOR

COSMETICS

Se

ns

ori

ality

P

rote

cti

on

Improve

moisturization of lips

Bring soft touch

color intensity,

strength and

homogeneity

Reduce stickiness

Provide smoother,

softer skin feel

Strengthen skin

barrier

Mitigate irritation

of surfactants

Mo

istu

riza

tio

n

Increase water

retention capacity of

hair fibers

Improve hair shine

and soft feel

More luxurious and

richer foam

Strengthen the

hair

Mitigates irritation

of surfactants

7

Substantiation work

on going


Protein protection from denaturation

SKIN HAIR

8

GENENECARE™ OSMS improves tight

junction integrity

GENENCARE™ OSMS BA increases

moisture retention in hair

Tight Junctions


Four weeks moisturization study

Hair strengthening evaluation


Significant differences (1) Genencare™ OSMS BA versus Control

(2) Genencare™ OSMS BA+ MI versus Control

based on Fixed Effect LSMeans Tukey HSD

Treatment period

(1)

Control (=O/W polymeric emulsion)

as baseline

4-week in vivo application study

GENENCARE™ BA and GENENCARE™ BA + MI versus control

Regression period

-2.5

-2

-1.5

-1

-0.5

0

0.5

Baseline Day 3 Day 29 Day 31 Day 35

(1), (2)

(1), (2)

10

∆TEWL

TEWL = TransEpidermal Water Loss


GENENCARE™ OSMS tensile stress measurements

Methodology

Elzbieta cosmetics B.V.,NL, 2007

STEP 3: HAIR DAMAGES (3 different conditions)

• 4 hours of drying @32°C under nitrogen

OR

• 2 hours of drying @45°C and RH=52%

OR

• 4 hours of drying @45°C and RH=52%

STEP 4: TENSILE STRENGTH MEASUREMENTS

Tensile strength : T1



STEP 2: PRETREATMENT with a commercial shampoo

• Original shampoo = CONTROL

• Addition of GENENCARE™ or Glycerin

Type of Hair : Blond virgin hair, untreated, Caucasian type

STEP 1: HAIR CONDITIONED

32°C, during 24h @ RH 65%

Copyright © 2015 DuPont. All rights reserved 11

-10

0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

d T1 d T2 d T3

Control

4% GENENCARE™ OSMS BA

4 % glycerine

10 % glycerine

3 groups of hair

4 different pretreatments per group

Elzbieta cosmetics B.V.,NL, 2007

GENENCARE™ OSMS strengthen the hair and

protects against heat damage

Tensile strength measurement :

The % of elongation is fixed at X %

(< 2% to stay in the elastic zone)

Measurement of the Force (N) , that

must be applied to reach the fixed elongation

The higher the Force, the more the hair is

resistant to elongation and therefore, to

breakage.

Standard Force-Elongation curve for human hair

Stress / Force (MPa)

Break

point

Tensile strength measurements

Elongation

(% of initial length) X % elongation applied to the hair 1 1

The force is

measured 2

NB: Elastic’s slope = Young modulus (Gpa)

Group 1 Group 2 Group 3

Measurement of the

Force (N) T, that must

be applied to reach 0.5%

hair elongation.

Copyright © 2015 DuPont. All rights reserved 12

GENENCARE™ OSMS unlock the power of nature

CONCLUSIONS

GENENCARE™OSMS

contribute to control the water

balance in living cells

GENENCARE™ OSMS

strengthen the tight junctions

GENENCARE™ OSMS

improve water retention in hair

and protects proteins from

denaturation

Strengthening the tight junctions

protect the skin against harmful

substances such as pollutants

Protection of proteins from

denaturation can contribute to

strengthen hair from heat stress


Thank you!

For more information,

To discover more GENENCARETM products,

the natural step is to visit

biosciences.dupont.com/genencare

or email

[email protected]

Copyright © 2015 DuPont. All rights reserved.

, DuPont™, and all products with ® or ™ are registered trademarks or trademarks of E. I. du Pont de Nemours and Company or its affiliates.

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