The machines we have observed:-

1. Button whole m/c.2. Over lock m/c (4 threads, 2 needles).3. Lock stitch single thread.4. Double chain stitch.5. Bottom covering belt loop m/c.6. Elastic inserting sewing m/c.7. Lap seaming m/c for back tape attaching.8. Arm hole sewing m/c.9. Lock stitch twin needle feed.10. Over lock one needle three thread.11. Three needles five thread flat bed m/c.12. Bias tape cutting m/c.13. Gig-zag m/c.14. Two needle four threads over lock m/c.15. Button attaching m/c.16. Bar taking machine with automatic thread trimmer.

GARMENTS MANUFACTURING LAB

Lock stitch machine Stitch class- 300 Company- Juki Model- 5500 Country – Japan

Features:- Most common used stitch class is 301. Number of needle- generally 1 needle or 2 needles. Stitches per minute 1500-5500. Stitch class-

301 Stitch length- 5mm in juki DDL-5500 model. Automatic thread cutting. Automatic bobbin winding. Edge cutting system.

Use:-

Commonly used for sewing of woven garments.

Lock stitch single threadCompany-Juki Model-DLU-5490N-7,Country-Japan

Feature:-

Number of Needle-1 Number of Thread -2 Number of needle thread-1 Number of bobbin Thread-1 Stitch type lock stitch

Lock Stitch Twin Needle FeedCompany-JukiModel-Lh3128Country-Japan

Feature:- Two Bobbin Double Lock Stitch

Use:-

Used in sewing oven and knitted garments

Two needle four threads over lock machineCompany –jukiModel-3714Country-Japan

Features:- Number of needles-2 Number of thread-4 Type of stitch-over lock

Use:- Used Both Sewing Oven and Knitted Garments

Chain stitch machineStitch class- 400Company- JukiModel- 5430 DLCountry – Japan

Features:- Most common used stitch class is 401 Number of needle- one or more needles. Number of thread – one or more thread (single or multi thread) Stitches per minute 1800-6000.

Stitch class-401 Stitch length- 1.4mm- 4.5mm. Automatic thread trimmer. Various types of feed mechanism is adjusted to the machine.

Use:-

Commonly used in knitted wear and jeans. Also used to insert lace, braid, elastic etc.

Double chain stitch machineCompany-KANSI

Model-DFB-1404 PSFMORIMOTO MFG. CO, LTDCountry- Japan

Over lock /Over edge machineStitch class- 500Company-JukiModel- 3714Country – JapanClass –BE6-40K B39/0141

Feature:- Number of needle- generally 1 needle or 2 needles. Number of thread 2-5 threads. Stitches per minute 6500-8500.

Stitch length- maximum 4mm and stitch length can be Stitch class- 502 changed by push button.

Stretching maximum 1.06 Gathering maximum 1.4.

Use:-

Used for sewing both woven and knitted goods but extensively used for knitted goods.

Jig-jag stitching machine Company- JukiModel- LZ-2281NCountry – Japan

Features:- Number of needle- 1 needle. Number of thread 2 threads.

Stitch class- 315 Stitches per minute 5500. Stitch length- 2mm-2.5mm. Stretching width 5-10mm.

Use:-

Used in edge neatening or decorative top stitching or to fit extra component e.g. elastic, tape, braid etc.

Flat lock machineCompany- JukiModel- 5500Country – Japan

Features:- Number of needle up to 4. Number of thread 4-9. Most amounts of threads used to sewing 1”, 32” thread is

required. Stitches per minute 6000. Stitch density 8-16 per minute. Very expensive machine.

Use:-

Used for sewing both woven and knitted goods but extensively used for knitted goods.

Three needle five thread flatbed machinesCompany-jukiModel-MF-7605U-U03-B56Union special corp.HUNTLEY, USA

Feature:- Number of Needle-3, Number of Thread -5 Number of needle thread-3 Number of lopper thread-2 Bed type-flat

Over lock m/c (4 thread, 2 needle)

Company -Juki, Country -JapanModel: 3714

Class-be6-40KB39/0141

Feature:- Number of needle-2 Number of thread-4 Number of needle thread-2 Number of lopper thread-2 Stitch type-over lock

Over lock one needle three threadCompany-jukiModel-3604Country-Japan

Features:- Number of needle-1 Number of thread-3 Number of needle thread-1 Number of lopper thread-2 Stitch type-over lock

Blind stitch machineCompany- JukiModel- 5500Country – Japan

Features:- Curved needle used so that it can be penetrated in to the fabric

partly and again come out from the same side. For this sewing line is not visible in face side of the fabric.

Number of needle 1needle. Number of thread 1or 2 thread. Stitches per minute 2500. Security is high for 2 thread blind stitch machine. Optimal skip stitch device is attached by which the needle can be passed through

outside layer of fabric after 1 or 2 stitches.

Use:-

Widely used for hemming and facing attaching.

Button holing machineCompany- JukiModel- 5500Country – Japan

Features:- Stitch group- lock or chain stitch. Arrangement of button hole size being small or larger. Arrangement of stitch density being increased or reduced. Button hole can be made to cut the hole before or after sewing a button hole.

Use:-

To make a button hole.

Button attaching machineCompany- JukiModel- MB-372Country – Japan

Features:- Produces lock stitch, chain stitch or hand stitch. Various types’ button clamps need for attaching various sizes and types of button. The button may be 2 or4 holes. 4 hole button may be sewed by cross or parallel stitches. If chain stitch is used, the sewing loops nice but the security of stitch is comparatively

less. If lock stitch is used no possibility of sewing opening but not looks nice. In fully automatic machine button feeding and positioning inside the button clamp is

performed by a hopper and pipe. It can attach pre determined number of buttons at a pre determined distance in a cyclic

order.

Use:-

To attach button.

Arm hole sewing m/cCompany-jukiModel-MS1261Country-Japan

Features:-

Number of Needle-1 or More Number of Thread-Normally 1 but May Be More

Use:- To sew arm hole

Bottom covering belt loop machineCompany-KANSAIModel-B-2000 CKS-123829 ACountry-Japan

Use:- Used to sew belt loop Used to increase strength of sew

Elastic inserting sewing machineCompany-KANSIModel-DFB 1404 PMDKS-203055 ACountry –Japan

Use:- To insert elastic to the fabric

Lap seaming machine for back tap attaching

Company-KANSIModel-DCR-1502 LKS-205774 A

Use:- Specially use in lap seaming Has eye guard for safety

Bar tack machine Company- JukiCountry – Japan

Features:- Cyclic machine of strong sewing in very short length. After making tack stitch in short length (1-2cm) Cover stitch is made on tack stitch

and the number of cover stitch.

Use:-

Used for sewing of belt loops, closing the ends of button holes, for increasing strength at the ends of the pocket.

MARKER MAKING

CAD SYSTEM:

Marker making with the help of computer:-

First production patterns are entered into the computer memory. For this normally scanning or digitizing method is used.

Full length production patterns are used this full size patterns are stored in the computer memory but shows small sizes of patterns in the computer screen.

Computer use grade rule to get all necessary sizes of patterns. Here marker maker generally use computer screen, key board and light pencil etc. With this marker maker give some instructions to the computer such as about pattern

size, number, check matching etc. According to this computer itself can make marker (This is called automatic marker

making. Here computer used permutation method. It is more efficient.) or the marker maker can make marker with the help of computer(This is known as interactive marker making. It is comparatively less efficient.)

SOFTWARE USED FOR GARMENTS MANUFACTURING:

Modaris: to make patternDiamino: to make markerPlotter: to print the pattern and it work as a scanner

Pattern making with Modaris:

Generally a software named “Modaris” is used to make pattern in computer. By this software we can produce garments pattern quickly and easily. Just we have to draw the pattern in the computer. Modaris is used for all phases of pattern development, including pattern manipulation, drafting, and grinding.

Features of Modaris: Reduce product development time

Achieve up to 50% in your overall productivity and gain time at all development stages! Create within a job-dedicated application and generate more than working by hand. When checking and altering, use traditional and advanced checking methods for faster control and capitalize on a unique style structure for precise adjustments. During the grading, get extensive possibilities for easy grading of any type of garment in any size.

Ensure perfect fitting and grading Work with maximum precision! Take advantage of the new dynamic measurement chart and easily make pattern measurements match specifications. With the product Modaris ExpertPro and its association functions, ensure of permanent pattern and grading consistencies. Finally, exploiting Modaris product dedicated features, get maximum accuracy i.e. lingerie.

Improve internal and external communication Optimize your communication and share your information! The wide interoperability capabilities of Modaris guarantee easy exchange of patterns with any CAD system of the market. Also use the new Modaris Asset Manager and standardize pattern information inside your pattern shop

Enjoy a customizable and user friendly application Access an intuitive and customizable interface! With Modaris, benefit from embedded job-oriented guided functions that ease your first use. Capitalize as well on many other

advantages and choose your language, work with short cuts, access information saved with patterns i.e. measurements, etc.

Fig: screen shot of Modaris software

General procedure to make pattern with Modaris

First production patterns are entered into the computer memory. For this normally scanning or digitizing method is used. Full length production patterns are used this full size patterns are stored in the computer memory but shows small sizes of patterns in the computer screen. Computer use grade rule to get all necessary sizes of patterns. Here marker maker generally use computer screen, key board and light pencil etc. With this marker maker give some instructions to the computer such as about pattern size, number, check matching etc. According to this computer itself can make marker (This is called automatic marker making. Here computer used permutation method. It is more efficient.) or the marker maker can make marker with the help of computer(This is known as interactive marker making. It is comparatively less efficient.)

Marker making with Diamino:After the patterns are created, they are transferred to Diamino, the marker-making program. Markers are then printed using vigiPrint

Fig: Screen shot of Diamino software

Features of Diamino: Confirmed experience in markermaking

Used by more than 10,000 professionals throughout the world, Diamino benefits Lectra’s 30 years long experience in technologies of material optimization.

Productivity gains Diamino significantly reduces marker-making time, so that more piece combinations can be tested to find out the best solution. New markers are quickly generated by addition, deletion or substitution of a model or a variant.

Material Gains At the end of interactive marker making, a marker compression function eliminates the empty spaces and reduces the marker length by tight-packing the pieces. This function, particularly suitable for small pieces, can generate further fabric savings of up to 1%.

Powerful and user-friendly Diamino achieves optimized marker making on every kind of fabric: open, folded, double-ply and matched fabrics. The operator has a global view of the entire marker making process and all the pieces-related information during manipulation.

Perfect integration with Lectra product range Formaris, Lectra pattern-making software, and Diamino are fully integrated. Any modification to a piece in Formaris is immediately taken into account in Diamino. Diamino generates markers that can be used directly on plotters, automatic spreaders and cutting systems. For the best cutting quality, Diamino optimizes the blade cutting path (starting point, cutting direction, etc.) and perfectly communicates with Mosaïc, Lectra matched fabrics solution, to achieve unrivalled quality markers on matched fabrics. A flexible range to fulfill the professionals' needs Four packages to respond to all customers' specific needs.

Print out:-

Made marker can be print out with the help of plotter which is connected with computer.

Plotter makes the copies of marker with the help of a beam and a pen. Full size marker can be obtained in case of big plotter otherwise there will be a mini

marker. The papers are kept as roll form inside the plotter table so that it can collect necessary

amount of paper for the marker making. It is the best method of marker copy.

Initial investment is very high

CUTTING SECTION

Cutting section :

The total process has four stages-

a)planning b)spreading c)cutting d)preparation for sewing

Spreads

planning Markers

Production

Manual

spreading

Computer

Machine

planning Depress

Computer

Bundles

Shade marking

Tickets Preparation for sewing

Cutting machine are divided into two types, the are –

1. Manually operated machine2. Computer operated machinE

Manually operated machine are-

Hand operated scissor Round knife Straight knife Band knife Die cutting Notcher

Drill

Computer operated machine

Knife cutting Cutting by water jet Laser cutting Plasma torch cutting

Description of three machines is given below. They are –

Round knife Straight knife Band knife

Round knife:-

Circular like knife Very first machine RPM=1000-3500 Bade size ranges from 6cm to 30 cm in diameter Main parts are base plate, electric motor, handle, blade guard etc. Edge of blade may be of three types-waved, toothed, circular. Capacity-10 times of straight knife. Cutting height- about 40% of the blade diameter.

Use:-

For excellent cutting of straight lines or gradual curves

Straight knife:-

Most used knife Common parts are- base plate, stand, motor, handle, knife guard, grinding wheel etc. Height of the blade-generally 10cm to 33cm Height of stroke-2.5cm to 4.5cm Types of edge-straight, wave, shewedge, serrated edge.

Band knife:-

The narrow blade of this machine allows the finest of shape to be cut very accurately. Some band knife machine have air flotation tables which support the block of work on

a fine air cushion, enabled the cutter to monocurve the work during cutting with the minimum disturbance to the plaices.