garment dyeing. - amannmaterial dyeing procedure amann products cotton/elastic cotton fabrics...

7
apparel garment dyeing. intelligent threads.

Upload: others

Post on 19-Mar-2020

51 views

Category:

Documents


4 download

TRANSCRIPT

apparel

garment dyeing.

intelligent threads.

3garment dyeing basics.

What is Garment Dyeing and why is it so famous?

Basic models of the collection are sewn “raw” and are dyed afterwards according to market trends and demands. This procedure makes it possible to respond quickly to market trends. Garment Dyeing is perfect to achieve special design effects and a distinctive optical appearance. Garment Dyeing offers high flexibility regarding colours, logistics, materials management and supply.

Common dyeing procedures.

Reactive dyes.

• dyestuff is linked chemically to the fibre• for good to very good wash and rub fastness

Direct or sulphide dyes.

• no real chemical reaction with the fibre• dyeing procedure is used if washed-out effects are required

Pigment dyes.

• dyestuff is applied to the fibre using binder agents

• no real chemical reaction with the fibre

• very good light fastness

What is dyed?

A distinction is made between fabrics made from cellulosic fibres (e.g. cotton) and those made from synthetic fibres (e.g. polyester or polyamide). Basically, all materials can be dyed, provided that the correct dyeing pro-cedure is used.

Most important fibre is and continues to be cotton. Other natural fibres such as silk and wool as well as blends of them are increasingly gaining significance. In addition, more and more elastic fabrics are used (”Comfort-Stretch”, ”Power-Stretch”).

Polyamide fabrics are less prominent in Garment Dyeing. Polyamide fab-rics are often used for underwear or for medical equipment. A future trend is Garment Dyeing of polyester clothes (e.g. in the sportswear segment) using high-temperature dyes.

Garment dyed items include e.g. trousers, jackets, T-shirts, polo- and sweatshirts, shirts and blouses, workwear, carpets, bath mats and towels, socks, underwear, bags and shoes.

Fashionable dyeing procedures.

Old-Dye, Antique-Dye, Cold-Dye.

• dyed with e.g. pigments or direct dyestuffs

• by means of cellulase treatment or abrasive washing treatments (e.g. stone wash), washed-out effects can be achieved

Dip-Dye.

• pre-fabricated garments are dipped into the dye bath on hangers

• even colour gradients are achieved by slow dipping and raising the garment

Top-Dye.

• sponges, rubber foam balls or rags are dipped into the dye bath and put into the dyeing machine together with the garments

• technique to achieve irregular and sketchy effects

Tie-Dye.• before the dyeing process, pre-fabricated garments are folded or knotted, put into nets or are fixed by strings• technique to achieve irregular effects like batik

AMANN‘s product range for Garment Dyeing – Choosing the correct sewing thread.

Choosing the correct sewing thread for Garment Dyeing depends on the raw material in use and the type of dyeing pro- cedure. Garment Dyeing itself requires a special performance of the sewing thread. The market is looking for sewing threads with a good dyeability, sufficient strength, efficient sewing performance and with ideal elongation. With PremiumGD, AMANN developed a sewing thread that unifies all those requirements for the first time!

It is also a current method to use dyed polyester sewing threads in combination with cotton dyeing procedures. Using this method, the seam quality is optimised, but the original idea of Garment Dyeing is lost. Using sewing threads that are already dyed offers no advantages in terms of logistics and quick response to colour trends. The use of PremiumGD combines both!

Material Dyeing procedure AMANN products

Cotton/elastic cotton fabricsReactive dyes, substantive dyes, pigment dyes, direct dyes

PremiumGD, RasantGD, Mercifil

Polyester High-temperature dye with disperse dyes sabaC, Serafil

Polyamide Acid dyes or metal complex dyes Garment Dyeing 120, PA Bauschgarn SGD

No matter which dyeing procedure or sewing thread you choose – we recommend individual tests in any case.

Viscose/cotton core spun• THE innovation for Garment Dyeing• the first sewing thread that combines perfect dyeability with elasticity• core spun thread made from 70% viscose and 30% cotton• robust in sewing• suitable as needle and looper thread

Premium

Product Ticket no. Tex no. Needle size Colour no. Make-up

PremiumGD

20 150 Nm 140 – 160 1000 1.500 m Co

30 105 Nm 120 – 140 1000 2.500 m Co

50 60 Nm 110 – 130 1000 5.000 m Co

75 40 Nm 100 – 120 1000 5.000 m Co

100 30 Nm 80 – 90 1000 5.000 m Co

Application recommendation per ticket.

Ticket no. Tex no. Application recommendation

20 150 • needle thread for expressive decorative and topstitch seams

30 105

• needle thread for distinctive decorative and topstitch seams• for highly stressed seams • for heavy weight and very elastic fabrics

50 60• under thread in combination with ticket no. 20 and 30 • for stressed seams • for heavy weight and very elastic fabrics

75 40• for lowly stressed seams • for serging seams

100 30

• for non-stressed seams• for serging seams• for fine fabrics (blouses, shirts, T-shirts) • as embroidery thread

5

Polyester/cotton core spun • core spun thread made from 40% polyester and 60% cotton• optimised dyeing properties due to the high cotton part • the ideal addition to Mercifil and PremiumGD, recommended to be used in combination• increased seam strength due to the polyester part compared to 100% cotton threads • robust in sewing

Product Ticket no. Tex no. Needle size Colour no. Make-up

RasantGD

30 105 Nm 120 – 140 LT00 + DK01+ DK02 2.500 m Co

50 60 Nm 100 – 110 LT00 + DK01+ DK02 5.000 m Co

75 40 Nm 90 – 100 LT00 + DK01+ DK02 5.000 m Co

100 30 Nm 80 – 90 LT00 + DK01+ DK02 5.000 m Co

Explanation of colour no.: LT00 = Light with raw polyester core, recommended for light dyeing, depending on the type of treatment, it is also possible to use it all-purposeDK01 = Medium with pre-dyed polyester core, recommended for medium dyeingDK02 = Dark with pre-dyed polyester core, recommended for dark dyeing Please consider: Due to the high cotton part, the dyeability is optimised. Nevertheless, only the cotton part is dyed during the dyeing process. The polyester core remains undyed.

Application recommendation per ticket.

Ticket no. Tex no. Application recommendation

30 105• under thread for highest safety on highly stressed seams (e.g. seat seams) especially while using lockstitch• for heavy weight and elastic fabrics

50 60

• under thread in combination with ticket 30 for more safety on stressed seams (e.g. seat seams) • for stressed inside seams • for heavyweight and elastic fabrics

75 40• for lowly stressed inside seams • for serging seams

100 30• for non-stressed inside seams • for serging seams • for fine fabrics (blouses, shirts, T-shirts)

Co=No matter which dyeing procedure or sewing thread you choose – we recommend individual tests in any case.

products and applications.

No matter which dyeing procedure or sewing thread you choose – we recommend individual tests in any case.

Cotton spun, mercerised• the classic sewing thread for Garment Dyeing• made from long-staple mercerised cotton• optimal dyeing properties• specific signal colour prevents confusion

Application recommendation per ticket.

Product Ticket no. (Ne) Tex no. Ticket no. (Nm) Needle size Colour no. Make-up

Mercifil

10 180 18 Nm 140 – 160 3000 + 6231 1.000 m Co

12 105 30 Nm 120 – 130 3000 + 6231 2.500 m Co

24/2 70 50 Nm 110 – 130 3000 + 6231 5.000 m Co

40 50 60 Nm 80 – 100 3000 + 6231 5.000 m Co

50 40 75 Nm 70 – 80 3000 + 6231 5.000 m Co

60 30 100 Nm 65 – 70 3000 + 6231 5.000 m Co

Explanation of colour no.: 3000 = bleached, 6231 = removable signal colour

Ticket no. Tex no. Application recommendation

10 180 • needle thread for expressive decorative and topstitch seams

12 105 • needle thread for decorative and topstitch seams

24/2 70• for high stressed seams • for decorative seams

40 50• for normally stressed seams• as under thread for decorative seams

50 40• for lightweight fabrics (shirts, blouses and underwear)• for serging seams

60 30• for fine fabrics (shirts, blouses and T- shirts)• for serging seams

7

AMANN’s products for Garment Dyeing – Application recommendation.

Depending on the article of clothing and the type of fabric in use (elastic or non-elastic, blends of materials, density, etc.), different concepts of sewing threads could be reasonable: Sewing thread concept A (PremiumGD):

Sewing thread concept B (PremiumGD in combination with RasantGD):

Sewing thread concept C (Mercifil in combination with RasantGD):

Sewing thread concept D (Mercifil):

Sewing thread concept E (RasantGD):

For seams visible from the outside For inside seams, not visible from the outside

Needle thread PremiumGD PremiumGD

Under thread PremiumGD PremiumGD

For seams visible from the outside For inside seams, not visible from the outside

Needle thread PremiumGD RasantGD

Under thread RasantGD RasantGD

For seams visible from the outside For inside seams, not visible from the outside

Needle thread Mercifil RasantGD

Under thread RasantGD RasantGD

For seams visible from the outside For inside seams, not visible from the outside

Needle thread Mercifil Mercifil

Under thread Mercifil Mercifil

For seams visible from the outside For inside seams, not visible from the outside

Needle thread RasantGD RasantGD

Under thread RasantGD RasantGD

Co=

products and applications.

No matter which dyeing procedure or sewing thread you choose – we recommend individual tests in any case.

9

Comparison of sewing thread concepts.

Sew

ing t

hre

ad c

once

pt

A Prem

ium

GD

Sew

ing t

hre

ad c

once

pt

B Pre

miu

mG

D

in c

om

bin

ation w

ith

Rasa

ntG

D

Sew

ing t

hre

ad c

once

pt

C Mer

cifil

in c

ombin

atio

n w

ith

Rasa

ntG

D

Sew

ing t

hre

ad c

once

pt

D Mer

cifil

Sew

ing t

hre

ad c

once

pt

E Rasa

ntG

D

Optica

l appea

rance

aft

er d

yei

ng

Per

fect

and

uni

form

ly

dyed

sea

ms

on b

oth

insi

de

and

outsi

de

Per

fect

and

uni

form

ly d

yed

seam

s on

the

outsi

de

Lig

ht s

pots

poss

ible

on

insi

de s

eam

s

Per

fect

and

uni

form

ly d

yed

seam

s on

the

outsi

de

Lig

ht s

pots

poss

ible

on

insi

de s

eam

s

Per

fect

and

uni

form

ly

dyed

sea

ms

on b

oth

insi

de

and

outsi

de

Lig

ht s

pots

poss

ible

on

both

in

side

and

out

side

sea

ms

Seam

elo

ngation

hig

hest

hig

her

hig

h lo

w h

ighe

r

Abra

sion r

esis

tance

hig

h h

igh

low

low

hig

h

Rep

air

rate

low

low

opt

imis

ed h

igh

low

Sew

ing p

erfo

rmance

Exc

elle

nt s

ewin

g

perfo

rman

ce, v

ery

high

m

achi

ne s

peed

pos

sibl

e

V

ery

good

sew

ing

pe

rform

ance

, ver

y hi

gh

mac

hine

spe

ed p

ossi

ble

Bet

ter s

ewin

g pe

rform

ance

, le

ss ri

sk o

f thr

ead

brea

kage

s co

mpa

red

to c

once

pt D

Low

sew

ing

perfo

rman

ce,

high

risk

of t

hrea

d br

eaka

ges

V

ery

good

sew

ing

pe

rform

ance

, ver

y hi

gh

mac

hine

spe

ed p

ossi

ble

Thre

ad c

once

pt

Sin

gle

thre

ad c

once

pt M

ultip

le th

read

con

cept

Mul

tiple

thre

ad c

once

pt S

ingl

e th

read

con

cept

Sin

gle

thre

ad c

once

pt

The

revo

lutionary

GD

se

win

g t

hre

ad c

once

pt

for

all

applic

ations,

es

pec

ially

for

very

el

ast

ic f

abri

cs

The

alter

native

GD

se

win

g t

hre

ad c

once

pt

for

all

applic

ations

The

moder

n G

D

sew

ing t

hre

ad c

once

pt

for

incr

ease

d s

eam

el

ast

icity

The

class

ical G

D

sew

ing t

hre

ad c

once

pt

with e

stablis

hed

res

ult

in d

yea

bili

ty

The

spec

ial G

D

sew

ing t

hre

ad c

once

pt

for

indiv

idual e

ffec

ts

Improved seam quality due to higher elongation of the sewing thread.

The higher thread elongation of RasantGD and especially PremiumGD has a positive influence on seam elasticity and therefore has a direct effect on seam quality. However, it is very important to consider the correct thread balance.

The correct thread balance in the seam.

We know from long-term experience that inappropriate thread balance is the reason for broken seams in most cases. Especially for Garment Dyeing, a perfect thread balance is crucial for the seam stability. The higher elongation of the sewing thread (e.g. PremiumGD) has a positive impact, but it cannot compensate inappropriate thread balance in the seam completely.

The drawing shows the lockstitch, please consider this also for the chainstitch.

20

15

10

5

0

Mercifil

Elongation in %

RasantGD PremiumGD

Thread balance Consequence

Perfect thread balance = optimal seam elasticity and seam strength

Inappropriate thread balance = Thread breakages

products and applications.

No matter which dyeing procedure or sewing thread you choose – we recommend individual tests in any case.

11

The following typical clothes for Garment Dyeing illustrate the application of the recommended sewing thread concepts. The sewing advisory ser-vice of AMANN is happy to recommend individual sewing thread concepts with regard to your fabrics and processing parameters in use. Furthermore, sewing thread calculations are available on request.

Shirts & Blouses.

Garment Dyeing is also used for blouses and shirts. Production of collars and cuffs, hems, button panels and yokes asks for accurate seams, perfect dyeing results and sufficient strength. AMANN‘s sewing thread range for Garment Dyeing has been developed to meet these challenges.

A = PremiumGD | B = PremiumGD in combination with RasantGD | C = Mercifil in combination with RasantGD

applications – examples.

Trousers

Garment Dyeing has a large share in trousers’ pro-duction. Customers appreciate the distinct look. Garment dyed trousers become frequently worn favourites, which must be specifically robust and durable. This is a particular challenge for sewing threads, which must provide perfect dyeability and at the same time sufficient strength and sewability.

Seam type Seam appearance Stitch type con-cept Needle thread Bobbin or looper thread

Product Ticket no.

Tex no. Product Ticket

no.Tex no.

Closing seams (not visible from the outside)

301

lockstitch

A PremiumGD 50 60 PremiumGD 50 60

B RasantGD 50 60 RasantGD 50 60

C RasantGD 50 60 RasantGD 50 60

Closing seams (not visible from the outside)

401 chainstitch

A PremiumGD 50 60 PremiumGD 50 60

B RasantGD 50 60 RasantGD 50 60

C RasantGD 50 60 RasantGD 50 60

Topstitch seams (visible from the outside)

301

lockstitch

A PremiumGD 30 105 PremiumGD 50 60

B PremiumGD 30 105 RasantGD 50 60

Mercifil 12 105 RasantGD 50 60

Serging seams 504

3-thread overlock stitch

A PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40

B RasantGD 75 40 RasantGD 75 40

C RasantGD 75 40 RasantGD 75 40

Button hole 404 button hole

A PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40

B PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40

Mercifil 50 40 Mercifil 50 40

Bar tack 304bar tack

A PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40

B PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40

C Mercifil 50 40 Mercifil 50 40

Seam type Seam appearance Stitch type con-cept Needle thread Bobbin or looper thread

Product Ticket no.

Tex no. Product Ticket

no.Tex no.

Closing seams (not visible from the outside)

301

lockstitch

A PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40

B RasantGD 75 40 RasantGD 75 40

C RasantGD 75 40 RasantGD 75 40

Closing seams (not visible from the outside)

401 chainstitch

A PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40

B RasantGD 75 40 RasantGD 75 40

C RasantGD 75 40 RasantGD 75 40

Topstitch seams (visible from the outside)

301

lockstitch

A PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40

B PremiumGD 75 40 RasantGD 75 40

Mercifil 50 40 RasantGD 75 40

Serging seams504

3-thread overlock stitch

A PremiumGD 100 30 PremiumGD 100 30

B RasantGD 100 30 RasantGD 100 30

C RasantGD 100 30 RasantGD 100 30

Button hole 304 button hole

A PremiumGD 100 30 PremiumGD 100 30

B PremiumGD 100 30 PremiumGD 100 30

C Mercifil 50 40 Mercifil 50 40

Attach button 107attach button

A PremiumGD 75 40

B PremiumGD 75 40

C Mercifil 50 40

A = PremiumGD | B = PremiumGD in combination with RasantGD | C = Mercifil in combination with RasantGD

intelligent threads.

apparel shoes & leather

automotive techtexhome interior

embroidery

Amann & Söhne GmbH & Co. KG Hauptstraße 1 | D-74357 Bönnigheim | Phone +49 7143 277-0 E-Mail: [email protected] | www.amann.com

Our management systems are certified according to

103855EN

02000124