Source: http://aminacreations.blogspot.in

DRESS DESIGNING BASICS The basics of making a dress are drafting, cutting, and stitching. But designing a dress requires a passion for making something new. Using the standard measurements and the basic Construction of a dress, and applying your creativity you can make elegant dresses. I would like to give a brief step by step process of making a dress.

First note down the body measurements after measuring with an inch tape or by referring to the standard size chart.

Once done, make a paper draft using the basic Construction of the dress. Then draw out the kind of dress you want to make separately and make alterations in

the draft accordingly. Place the draft on the cloth, mark with a chalk and cut the cloth leaving the required

stitching allowances. (Stitching allowances usually taken are 1” to 1 ½” at the sides and ½”at all other parts.)

Now start stitching according to the measurements. Once done, add extra embellishments to further enhance the look of the dress.

What I have given here is a general Method and does not necessarily apply for stitching all types of dresses. Small changes have to be made when stitching some dresses. Another important factor is the measurements. The measurements have to be taken and marked accurately and the dress also has to be stitched according to the measurements because if you go wrong here, the dress stitched might look disproportionate to the actual size.

HOW TO TAKE BODY MEASUREMENTS / SEWING BASICS

Body measurements can be taken using the inch tape. For e.g., for 0 to 1 measurement, keep ‘0’ of the

inch tape at the junction between neck and shoulder and measure up to the required length of the

dress. Similarly take the waist length from ‘0’ up to the thinnest part of the body (waist). Similarly

measure the waist, hip, chest, and round neck around the body (i.e. full circle) by placing the ‘0’ of inch

tape on one end and noting down the measurement that comes after a full circle is completed. For

measuring the shoulders, place ‘0’ on one shoulder bone and measure the distance from there to the

other shoulder bone. Measure the required front and back neck depth from ‘0’ as shown. Take ‘4’ to ‘5’

measurement from the shoulder bone up to the required length of the sleeve and ‘5’ to ‘6’

measurement around the arm (i.e. full circle).

0-1= length of the dress

0-2= waist length

3-4= shoulder

4-5= sleeve length 5-6= round arm 0-7= front neck depth (similarly for back) a- Chest b- Waist Around the body c- Hip d- Round neck

While taking these measurements make sure that you take all the measurements exact to the body. Do

not take it either too loose or too tight. Just take the correct measurement of the body. If the

measurements are not taken properly, then the dress stitched will not be perfect.

SIZE CHART 1 The following is the size chart commonly used for stitching the basic Indian dresses.

SIZE CHART 2 This is the standard size chart commonly used for stitching children's dresses.

HOW TO STITCH A TOP/KURTI / SEWING BASICS

A top can be worn with pants, skirts, etc. Tops come in different shapes, sizes, patterns and designs. But

the basic Method of stitching a top is the same. Alterations to the sleeves, neck, length, etc makes it

look different. A kurti is a slightly longer top which more or less resembles a kameez and is usually worn

with jeans pants, patiyalas, gatherings,etc.

Construction

0 to 1 – Top length 0 to 2 – 1/6 chest +1" 2 to 3 – 1/4 chest + 1" or 1 ¼ " or 1 ½” 0 to 4 – half shoulder 4 to 5 – 1/2" 0 to 6 – 1/6 round neck + 1/2” 0 to 7 - Back Neck depth (standard = 3”) 6 to 8 - Front Neck depth (standard = 6”) 0 to 9 – Waist length 9 to 10- ¼ waist + 1” or 1 ¼” or 1 ½”

1 to 11- 2 to 3 measurement +2” or 3” 11 to 13- 1” Join 3 to 5 through a curve passing through‘d’ as shown. ‘a’ is the midpoint of 3 and ‘d’. Take ‘b’ ½” from ‘a’ and draw another curve from 3 to 5 through ‘b’ and‘d’. The inner curve through ‘b’ is the front arm hole, and the outer curve through ‘a’ is the back arm hole. Join 6 to 8 through a curve to get the front neck and 6 to 7 through a curve to get the back neck. Join 6 to 5 for the shoulder. Join 12 to 13 as shown.

Method

For stitching a top, first measure and note down the body measurements.

Then take the cloth, open it in the reverse such that the two selvedges of the cloth are on top of each

other. Then fold again such that the two ends are on top of each other.

Mark the measurements directly on the cloth using the Construction given above (Or first make a paper

draft). Then join all the lines and curves.

Then leaving 1” extra cloth along the sides and bottom of the dress and ½” extra cloth along the neck,

shoulder and arm hole, cut the cloth. Remember that the front and back necks and arm holes have to be

cut separately because their curves are different. Hence take care while cutting it. Most importantly the

shoulder line of all the four pieces must be equal.

Stitching has to be done on the marked lines and curves.

First finish the neck. For this refer FINISHING THE NECK. Then cut the sleeves, double fold the ends and

stitch it with the arm holes. Refer SLEEVES for its Construction. Then stitch the sides and if required

leave a small opening at the two sides. Refer STITCHING THE SIDES for details. Finally finish the ends by

double folding the extra cloth and stitching. Your top is now ready.

HOW TO STITCH AN A-LINE KAMEEZ/ KURTI

A-line kameez is different from the Straight cut kameez as it has more flair at the bottom. A- Line

kameez which are stitched like a short top do not usually have opening at the sides and are often paired

with Churidhars or gathering pants. Normal long A- line kameez have opening at the sides and can be

worn with Salwars.

Material required: 2 ½ metres of cloth

Construction

0 to 1 – Kameez length

0 to 2 – 1/6 chest +1"

2 to 3 – 1/4 chest + 1" or 1 ¼ " or 1 ½”

0 to 4 – half shoulder

4 to 5 – 1/2"

0 to 6 – 1/6 round neck + 1/2”

0 to 7 - Back Neck depth (standard = 3”)

6 to 8 - Front Neck depth (standard = 6”)

0 to 9 – Waist length

9 to 10- ¼ waist + 1” or 1 ¼” or 1 ½”

1 to 11- 2 to 3 measurement +2” or 3”

11 to 13- 1”

Mark the measurements on the cloth with a chalk. Join 6 to 7 for the back neck and 6 to 8 for the front neck. Join 6 to 5 for the shoulder.

For the arm hole curves, join 3 to 5 through a curve passing through ‘d’ as shown. ‘d’ is the midpoint of 4 and ‘c’. ‘a’ is the midpoint of 3 and ‘d’. Take ‘b’ ½” from ‘a’ and draw another curve from 3 to 5 through ‘b’ and ‘d’. The inner curve through ‘b’ is the front arm hole, and the outer curve through ‘a’ is the back arm hole.

Join 3 to 10 and extend the curve up to 13 by slightly curving the line as shown (you may have noticed that 10 to 13 line is not a straight line it is slightly curved near the hip area.)

Join 1, 12 and 13 as shown.

Method

First measure and note down the body measurements. You can make a paper draft first or directly mark

the measurements on the cloth.

Take the cloth, open it and fold in the reverse such that the two selvedges of the cloth are on top of

each other. Then fold again such that the two ends are on top of each other.

Mark the measurements directly on the cloth using the Construction given above. Then join all the lines

and curves.

Then leaving 1” extra cloth along the sides and bottom of the dress and ½” extra cloth along the neck,

shoulder and arm hole, cut the cloth. (You can refer the pink line for the cutting line.) Remember that

the front and back necks and front and back arm holes have different curves and hence have to be cut

separately. Hence take care while cutting it. Most importantly the shoulder line of all the pieces must be

equal.

Stitching has to be done on the marked lines and curves.

After the pieces are cut and ready, finish the neck. For this refer FINISHING THE NECK for more details

on its Method. Then cut the sleeves, double fold the ends and stitch on top of the fold. Once the sleeves

are ready, stitch it to the arm holes. You can stitch normal SHORT SLEEVES, LONG SLEEVES, PUFF

SLEEVES according to your choice. Refer their respective pages for their Construction and Method.

In case you do not want opening at the sides, stitch the sides along the 3 to 13 line and reverse stitch at

the ends. For stitching an opening at the sides, refer STITCHING THE SIDES for more details. In this case

the opening can start 6” or 8” below the 10 measurement. Finally finish by double folding the bottom

end and stitching. Your A-line kameez is now ready. Turn the dress to the reverse and over lock the cloth

to prevent threads from coming out.

HOW TO STITCH ANARKALI SUIT WITH PANELS

Anarkali suits have always remained in fashion. They are usually worn with gathering pants or

churidhars. There are different patterns of anarkali depending on their cut and design. I have already

done posts on HOW TO STITCH a basic anarkali suit , HOW TO STITCH anarkali suit with layers and in this

post the Method of stitching anarkali suit with panels is discussed. In this type of anarkali suit, mono

colour or multicolour panels are stitched just below the waist.

For the upper part

Construction

0 to 2 – 1/6 chest +1"

2 to 3 – 1/4 chest + 1" or 1 ¼ " or 1 ½”

0 to 4 – half shoulder

4 to 5 – 1/2"

0 to 6 – 1/6 round neck + 1/2”

0 to 7 - Back Neck depth (standard = 3”)

6 to 8 - Front Neck depth (standard = 6”)

0 to 9 – Waist length minus 2” (since anarkali has a high waist)

9 to 10- ¼ waist + 1” or 1 ¼” or 1 ½”

Method

For stitching the anarkali suit, take two fabrics one main cloth and one lining cloth. The main cloth can

be chiffon, georgette, silk or cotton. The lining cloth should always be of the same colour as the main

cloth.

Since the lower part has panels or kallis, the upper part and lower part of the main cloth have to be cut

separately and then stitched together in the end. The lining cloth can be cut as an A line kameez.

First begin by measuring and noting down the body measurements. Then prepare a draft for the upper

part on paper using the Construction given above and cut on the marked lines. Keep the draft ready.

Now take the cloth, fold it in the reverse such that the two selve edges of the cloth are on top of each

other. Then fold again such that the two ends are on top of each other. Now you will have 4 layers.

Make sure that you are seeing the reverse part.

Place the draft on top of the cloth and mark the outline on the cloth using a chalk. Then leaving 1” extra

cloth along the sides and ½” extra cloth along the neck, shoulder and armhole, cut the cloth. The front

and back necks and arm holes have to be cut separately because their curves are different. Hence take

care while cutting it. The shoulder line of all the four layers must be equal. For more details refer HOW

TO STITCH a kameez.

After cutting the cloth for the upper part, the cloth for the lower part have to be cut. For this, thin pieces

of cloth or kallis have to be cut and stitched to one another and finally stitched to the upper part.

For cutting the kallis or panels, first measure the total length of the dress and subtract the 0 to 9

measurement. Now you will get the length of each panel or kalli.

For example, if you want the length of the anarkali suit to be = 50” and 0 to 9 measurement = 12”, then

length of each panel = 38”. You can have four or six panels for the front and back (i.e. total 8 or 12).

Here I will be discussing anarkali suit with 4 panels in front and back (total 8 panels)

For calculating the upper breadth and lower breadth of each kalli (panel), the following procedure has to

be followed.

Upper breadth = waist/ (2 x 4)

Lower breadth = 3 x Upper breadth

For example, if waist = 24”, then each panel or kalli will have upper breadth = 3” and lower breadth = 9”.

Using this measurement cut 8 kallis (4 for the front and four for the back ) and leave ½” extra cloth on all

sides for stitching allowance.

The best Method of cutting the pieces is given below.

Once all the kallis are cut and ready, stitch them together and make sure to fold and stitch the extra

cloth properly in the reverse such that the threads don’t come out. Give a stitch on top as well so that

the kallis stand in place.

Stitch 4 kallis together and another four together. Stitch one set to the front side of the upper part and

the other set to the back side of the upper part.

Once done, you will have 2 main pieces, one for the front and another for the back. Then using the

Construction and Method of the A line kameez, cut the lining cloth. Make sure that the total length of

the lining cloth is same as that of the length of your anarkali top.

Now you will have in total 4 pieces, two for the front (main cloth and lining cloth) and two pieces for the

back (main cloth and lining cloth). Stitch the two front pieces together at the shoulder line and the two

back pieces at the shoulder line. Then stitch all the 4 pieces along the shoulder line and finish the neck .

You can stitch a normal neck or a collar as shown in the image above. For this refer finishing the neck for

normal neck or HOW TO STITCH a collar for a neck with collar. Next attach the sleeves to the arm holes.

Refer the Construction for long sleeves for more details.

Once the sleeves are attached, start stitching the sides from the sleeve end. Stop till you reach the 10

measurement. The lower part has to be stitched separately at the sides since the lining cloth has A line

pattern and the main cloth has panels or kallis. Once the sides are stitched, double fold the lining cloth

2” or 3" and stitch. The main cloth can be double folded ½” or a picot can be done. Four panel Anarkali

suit is now ready. To stitch a churidhar, refer HOW TO STITCH a gathering pant or churidhar for its

Construction.

I have tried to explain the Method of stitching this variety of anarkali suit as clearly as possible but

making anarkali suit with kallis is quite complicated, hence it is advisable to use your discretion while

you stitch. If you are a beginner it is recommended to start with stitching basic kameez or a basic

anarkali suit before trying out this one.

The images are just a pictorial representation. Hence it might not be exact.

ANARKALI SUIT WITH FULL FLARE UMBRELLA CUT PATTERN

Anarkali suits are stitched with different patterns. I have already posted HOW TO STITCH basic Anarkali

suit and Anarkali suit with layers, and in this post the Method of stitching anarkali suit with umbrella cut

is discussed. This type of anarkali suit has a full flare umbrella cut pattern and therefore has a nice

appearance. Umbrella cut Anarkali suits are usually stitched with thin fabrics like chiffon and Georgette

and usually has a lining material.

For stitching an anarkali top, you need two fabrics, a main cloth and a lining cloth. The lining cloth

should always be of the same colour as the main cloth. The dress will have two parts, an upper part and

a lower part cut in an umbrella cut fashion. For the upper part you need about 1 1/2 metres of cloth and

for the lower part, about 3 1/2 metres of cloth. For the lining, you need cloth of about 2 1/2 metres.

Construction and Method

For the upper part

0 to 2 – 1/6 chest +1"

2 to 3 – 1/4 chest + 1" or 1 ¼ " or 1 ½”

0 to 4 – half shoulder

4 to 5 – 1/2"

0 to 6 – 1/6 round neck + 1/2”

0 to 7 - Back Neck depth (standard = 3”)

6 to 8 - Front Neck depth (standard = 6”)

0 to 9 – Waist length minus 2” (since anarkali has a high waist)

9 to 10- ¼ waist + 1” or 1 ¼” or 1 ½”

To begin with, first measure and note down the body measurements. Then prepare a draft for the upper

part on paper using the Construction given above and cut on the marked lines. Keep the draft ready.

Now take the cloth, fold it in the reverse such that the two selve edges of the cloth are on top of each

other. Then fold again such that the two ends are on top of each other. Now you will have 4 layers.

Make sure that you are seeing the reverse part.

Place the draft on top of the cloth and mark the outline on the cloth using a chalk. Then leaving 1” extra

cloth along the sides and ½” extra cloth along the neck, shoulder and armhole, cut the cloth. The front

and back necks and arm holes have to be cut separately because their curves are different. Hence take

care while cutting it. The shoulder line of all the four layers must be equal. For more details refer HOW

TO STITCH a kameez.

For the lower part

After cutting the cloth for the upper part, the cloth for the lower part has to be cut. For this, take a big

width cloth of about 3 ½ metres long. Fold the cloth as shown in the figure, mark the following

measurements and cut one semi circle as shown.

0 to 1

0 to 2 = 1/6 waist

0 to 3

1 to 4

2 to 5 = Length of the lower part + 1” (stitching allowance)

3 to 6

In the same way fold again and cut another semi circle. These two semi circle pieces have to be joined at

the sides later to form a full flare anarkali skirt. Mark 4 points on the inner circle at equidistant intervals

and stitch notches by taking 1” cloth each. (This is done to make the curved part straight.)

Once the upper part and lower part of the main dress are cut and ready, take the lining cloth and cut

using A line kameez pattern (since we do not need flare for the lining). Check out the Construction of A

line kameez for details and make sure that you keep the same length for both the lining and main cloth.

After the lining is also cut and ready, start stitching the pieces together. First stitch one upper part of the

anarkali suit with the lower part at the waist. Similarly stitch the other upper part with the other lower

part. Now you will have 2 pieces, one for the front and another for the back. And there will also be two

lining pieces, one for the front and another for the back. Hence you will have 4 pieces, 2 for the front

and 2 for the back.

Stitch the front part with the front part of the lining cloth and the back part with the back part of the

lining cloth along the shoulder line to hold the pieces in place. Join the 4 pieces at the shoulders and

finish the neck and sleeves. For these refer Finishing the neck and Cutting the sleeves for its

Construction. Once the neck part is completed and the sleeves are cut, stitch them to the armholes.

(Anarkalis usually have long sleeves but you can also stitch Puff sleeves or normal sleeves as shown in

the picture. The tutorial on puffed sleeves, normal sleeves and long sleeves can be found by clicking on

the links.) Then start stitching both the sides starting from the sleeve ends to the upper part of the top.

Do reverse stitches at the ends.

For the lower part, stitch the lining and the main part separately at the sides. The bottom end of the

lining should be double folded 2” to 3” whereas the bottom end of the main dress can be double folded

1/2" or a lace can also be attached or a picot can be done. You can also stitch a waist band at the joint

between the upper and lower parts if you like).

I have tried to explain the Method of stitching this variety of anarkali suit as clearly as possible but it is

advisable to use your discretion while you stitch. If you are a beginner it is recommended to start with

stitching basic kameez or a basic anarkali suit before trying out this one.

The images are just a pictorial representation. Hence it might not be exact.

HOW TO STITCH A SLEEVELESS KAMEEZ

For a sleeveless kameez or kurti, the arm hole is not cut deep and usually piping is done to finish the

edges. The Construction and Method of stitching a sleeveless kameez is discussed below.

Construction

0 to 1 – Kameez length

0 to 2 – 1/6 chest

2 to 3 – 1/4 chest + 1" or 1 ¼ " or 1 ½”

0 to 4 – half shoulder minus 1” or 2”

4 to 5 – 1/2"

0 to 6 – 1/6 round neck + 1/2”

0 to 7 - Back Neck depth (standard = 3”)

6 to 8 - Front Neck depth (standard = 6”)

0 to 9 – Waist length

9 to 10- ¼ waist + 1” or 1 ¼” or 1 ½”

1 to 11- 2 to 3 measurement +2” or 3”

11 to 13- 1”

Join 3 to 5 through a curve as shown to get the arm hole and 6 to 8 through a curve to get the front neck

and 6 to 7 through a curve to get the back neck. Join 6 to 5 for the shoulder and 12 to 13 as shown.

Method

For stitching a sleeveless top, measure and note down the body measurements.

Then take the cloth, open it in the reverse such that the two selvedges of the cloth are on top of each

other. Then fold again such that the two ends are on top of each other.

Mark the measurements directly on the cloth using the Construction given above (Or first make a paper

draft). Then join all the lines and curves.

Then leaving 1” extra cloth along the sides and bottom of the dress and ½” extra cloth along the neck,

shoulder and arm hole, cut the cloth. Remember that the front and back necks have to be cut separately

because their curves are different. Hence take care while cutting it. Most importantly the shoulder line

of all the four pieces must be equal.

Stitching has to be done on the marked lines and curves.

Begin by first stitching at the shoulders and finish the neck. For this refer FINISHING THE NECK. Then do

piping with a cloth of the same or contrasting colour and stitch the sides. Leave a small opening at the

two sides if required and finish it. Refer STITCHING THE SIDES for details. Finally double fold the extra

cloth at the ends and stitch on top. Your sleeveless top is now ready.

HOW TO STITCH NECK GATHERING KURTI

A neck gathering kurti has gathers or flair at the neck area. The Construction and Method of stitching a

neck gathering kurti is discussed here. These kurtis can be worn with gathering pants (churidhars) or

jeans. This knee length kurti does not have slits at the sides.

Material required: 2 ½ metres of cloth

Construction

0 to 1 – Kurti length

0 to 2 – 1/6 chest +1"

2 to 3 – 1/4 chest + 4" or 4 ¼ " or 4 ½”

0 to 4 – half shoulder + 3"

4 to 5 – 1/2"

0 to 6 – 1/6 round neck + 1/2” + 3"

0 to 7 - Back Neck depth (standard = 3”)

0 to 8 - Front Neck depth = 4"

0 to 9 – Waist length

9 to 10- ¼ waist + 4” or 4 ¼” or 4 ½”

1 to 11- 2 to 3 measurement +2” or 3” + 3"

11 to 13- 1”

Mark the measurements on the cloth with a chalk. The Construction is the same as A line kameez with 0 to 4 measurement, 2 to 3 measurement, 9 to 10 measurement and 1 to 11 measurement extended by 3". Join 6 to 7 for the back neck and 6 to 8 for the front neck. Join 6 to 5 for the shoulder.

For the arm hole curves, join 3 to 5 through a curve passing through ‘d’ as shown. ‘d’ is the midpoint of 4 and ‘c’. ‘a’ is the midpoint of 3 and ‘d’. Take ‘b’ ½” from ‘a’ and draw another curve from 3 to 5 through ‘b’ and ‘d’. The inner curve through ‘b’ is the front arm hole, and the outer curve through ‘a’ is the back arm hole.

Join 3 to 10 and extend the curve up to 13 by slightly curving the line as shown (you may have noticed that 10 to 13 line is not a straight line it is slightly curved near the hip area.)

Join 1, 12 and 13 as shown.

Method

First measure and note down the body measurements. You can make a paper draft first or directly mark

the measurements on the cloth.

Take the cloth, open it and fold in the reverse such that the two selvedges of the cloth are on top of

each other. Then fold again such that the two ends are on top of each other.

Mark the measurements directly on the cloth using the Construction given above. Then join all the lines

and curves.

Then leaving 1” extra cloth along the sides and bottom of the dress and ½” extra cloth along the neck,

shoulder and arm hole, cut the cloth. (You can refer the pink line for the cutting line.) Remember that

the front and back necks and front and back arm holes have different curves and hence have to be cut

separately. Hence take care while cutting it. Most importantly the shoulder line of all the pieces must be

equal.

Stitching has to be done on the marked lines and curves.

After the pieces are cut and ready, finish the neck. For this pleat the neck area of both the front and

back pieces as shown in the figure below such that the cloth after pleating has the length and curve

which resembles the normal neck. You can do piping or double folding along the neck area to make it

look more attractive. Once the front and back necks are pleated and ready, join the two pieces at the

shoulders. Then cut PUFF SLEEVES following the Construction, double fold the ends and stitch on top of

the fold or do piping. Once the sleeves are ready, stitch it to the arm holes.

Once done, stitch the sides starting from the sleeve ends and ending at the bottom end of the dress.

Finally finish by double folding the bottom end and stitching on top. Your neck gathering kurti is now

ready. Turn the dress to the reverse and over lock the cloth to prevent threads from coming out. You

can stitch a thin band of about 2" as shown in the figure above to tie at the waist.

HOW TO STITCH A STRAIGHT-CUT KAMEEZ/ KURTIS

Kameez and Kurtis are usually stitched with a straight cut pattern. They can be worn with Salwars,

Patiyalas or Churidhars. Straight cut kameez is slightly different from A- line kameez which has more flair

at the bottom. The Construction and Method of stitching a straight cut Kameez is discussed here. A

Kurti is slightly shorter than the regular kameez.

Construction

0 to 1 – length of the kameez

0 to 2 – 1/6 chest +1"

2 to 3 – 1/4 chest + 1" or 1 ¼ " or 1 ½”

0 to 4 – half shoulder

4 to 5 – 1/2"

0 to 6 – 1/6 round neck + 1/2”

0 to 7 - Back Neck depth (standard = 3”)

6 to 8 - Front Neck depth (standard = 6”)

0 to 9 – Waist length

9 to 10 - ¼ waist + 1” or 1 ¼” or 1 ½”

9 to 11 - waist to hip length = (7” or 8”)

11 to 12 - ¼ hip + 1” or 1 ¼ " or 1 ½”

1 to 13 – 11 to 12 measurement + 1”

Join 3 to 5 through a curve passing through‘d’ as shown. ‘a’ is the midpoint of 3 and ‘d’. Take ‘b’ ½” from

‘a’ and draw another curve from 3 to 5 through ‘b’ and‘d’. The inner curve through ‘b’ is the front arm

hole, and the outer curve through ‘a’ is the back arm hole.

Join 6 to 8 through a curve to get the front neck and 6 to 7 through a curve to get the back neck.

Join 6 to 5 for the shoulder.

The opening of a straight cut kameez can be taken at 12 measurement or 1” or 2” above 12

measurement.

Method

For stitching a straight cut kameez, first measure and note down the body measurements.

Then take the cloth, open it in the reverse such that the two selve dges of the cloth are on top of each

other. Then fold again such that the two ends are on top of each other.

Mark the measurements directly on the cloth using the Construction given above (Or first make a paper

draft). Then join all the lines and curves.

Then leaving 1” extra cloth along the sides and bottom of the dress and ½” extra cloth along the neck,

shoulder and arm hole, cut the cloth. Remember that the front and back necks and arm holes have to be

cut separately because their curves are different. Hence take care while cutting it. Most importantly the

shoulder line of all the four pieces must be equal.

Stitching has to be done on the marked lines and curves.

Begin stitching by first finishing the neck. Refer FINISHING THE NECK to get details on how it is

done.Short or long sleeves can be stitched to the kameez. For the Construction and Method of stitching

sleeves, check out the SLEEVES page. Once the sleeves are cut, double fold the ends and stitch on top

and then stitch the sleeves to the arm holes. Note that the front part of each sleeve will have a slightly

deeper arm hole curve just like the front arm hole of the kameez. Once the sleeves are cut, start

stitching the sides starting from the ends of the sleeves and stopping at the opening at the sides. Check

out STITCHING THE SIDES for a more detailed explanation. Finally finish the bottom end by double

folding the extra cloth and stitching. Your straight cut kameez is now ready. Turn the dress to the

reverse and over lock the cloth to prevent threads from coming out.

HOW TO STITCH ANARKALI SUIT WITH LAYERS / SEWING BASICS

Anarkali suits are one of the most popular Indian dresses. I have already done a post on HOW TO STITCH

a basic anarkali suit and in this post the Method of stitching anarkali suit with layers or tiers is discussed.

Usually in this type of anarkali suit, 3, 4 or 5 layers are pleated and stitched one below the other. The

layers can be of the same colour or of 2 or 3 different but related colours. Anarkali suit is usually stitched

with thin fabrics like chiffon and Georgette.

Construction

0 to 2 – 1/6 chest +1"

2 to 3 – 1/4 chest + 1" or 1 ¼ " or 1 ½”

0 to 4 – half shoulder

4 to 5 – 1/2"

0 to 6 – 1/6 round neck + 1/2”

0 to 7 - Back Neck depth (standard = 3”)

6 to 8 - Front Neck depth (standard = 6”)

0 to 9 – Waist length minus 2” (since anarkali has a high waist)

9 to 10- ¼ waist + 1” or 1 ¼” or 1 ½”

Method

For stitching an anarkali top, you need two fabrics, a main cloth and a lining cloth. The lining cloth

should always be of the same colour as the main cloth.The dress will have two parts, a single piece

upper part and a lower part having layers. The lining cloth can be cut as an A line kameez.

To begin with, first measure and note down the body measurements. Then prepare a draft for the upper

part on paper using the Construction given above and cut on the marked lines. Keep the draft ready.

Now take the cloth, fold it in the reverse such that the two selve edges of the cloth are on top of each

other. Then fold again such that the two ends are on top of each other. Now you will have 4 layers.

Make sure that you are seeing the reverse part.

Place the draft on top of the cloth and mark the outline on the cloth using a chalk. Then leaving 1” extra

cloth along the sides and ½” extra cloth along the neck, shoulder and armhole, cut the cloth. The front

and back necks and arm holes have to be cut separately because their curves are different. Hence take

care while cutting it. The shoulder line of all the four layers must be equal. For more details refer HOW

TO STITCH a kameez.

Next place the draft on top of the lining cloth and mark on the cloth till the 0 to 1 measurement. For

more details visit HOW TO STITCH a kameez. Cut the lining cloth leaving 1" allowance at the sides, and

1/2" allowance at the neck, shoulders and arm holes. Now you will have 2 pieces of lining cloth, 1 for the

front and the other for the back. (This is different from the main dress as the main dress will have

separate upper and lower parts)

After cutting the cloth for the upper part, the cloth for the lower part have to be cut. For this, thin pieces

of cloth have to be cut and stitched one below the other. The height of each piece can be the same but

usually the height is taken with increasing values like 9, 10, and 11. Measure the total height of the dress

and subtract the 0 to 9 measurement. With the remaining length divide into 3 or 4 layers and cut

accordingly.

For example, if the height of the anarkali = 50” and 0 to 9 measurement = 12”

Then remaining cloth height = 38”. This can be divided into 3 or 4 layers of increasing height. Here we

have divided it into 4 layers having height equal to 8”, 9”, 10”, and 11”. Add 1" extra in all the pieces as

stitching allowance (i.e.1/2" for stitching the upper part and 1/2" for stitching the lower part). Hence the

height of the four pieces will now be 9", 10", 11", and 12".

And for finding the length of each layer the following Method can be followed.

Waist = 4 x (9 to 10 measurement)

(here 9 to 10 measurement taken = 7”

Hence waist = 4 x 7” = 28”)

For the first layer,

Length = ½ waist + ¼ waist

(Here it is equal to 21”)

For the remaining layers

Length = previous length + previous length/ 2

Hence according to the example, for the second layer length = 31 ½”

Third layer length = 47 ¼

Fourth layer length = 71 ½

Add 1" extra to each of the pieces (such that the length will now be 22", 32 1/2", 48 1/4" and 72 1/2")

and cut the cloth.After cutting these four layers, repeat the process and cut another 4 layers. 4 layers

are cut for the front and the other 4 are for the back.

This is just an example; you can decide on the height of your anarkali suit and calculate accordingly using

the formula given above.

After cutting the layers, pleat the first layer such that the length is equal to 2 times 9 to 10

measurement. Secure it by stitching long stitches on top. (You can remove this after stitching it to the

upper part) The next layer has to be pleated and stitched to the first layer such that its length after

pleating will reduce to the actual length of the first layer. Continue the process till all the layers are

attached. Once the front part is done, do the same thing for the back portion. Make sure that all the

stitches are at 1/2" distance from the ends. After stitching measure with an inch tape and check if the

length of the anarkali suit is perfect.

After the layers are stitched and ready, stitch them to the upper part at the waist. Now you will have

two pieces of anarkali suit, 1 for the front and the other for the back. Stitch the front part with the front

part of the lining cloth and the back part with the back part of the lining cloth at the shoulders. Join the

4 pieces at the shoulders and finish the neck and sleeves. For these refer Finishing the neck and Cutting

the sleeves for its Construction. Once the neck part is completed and the sleeves are cut, stitch them to

the armholes. Anarkalis usually have long sleeves but you can also stitch puffed sleeves as shown in the

picture. The tutorial on puffed sleeves can be found here.

Then start stitching both the sides starting from the sleeve ends to the upper part of the top. Do reverse

stitches at the ends. For the lower part, stitch the lining and the main cloth separately at the sides. The

sides are closed in an anarkali dress hence the sides of the lining and main cloth have to be stitched

without any opening. The bottom end of the lining should be double folded 2” to 3” whereas the bottom

end of the main dress can be double folded 1/2" or a lace can also be attached or a picot can be done.

After stitching turn the dress to the reverse and overlock the open ends to prevent threads from coming

out.

After stitching the anarkali suit will have flair as shown.

I have tried to explain the Method of stitching this variety of anarkali suit as clearly as possible but

making this type of anarkali suit is quite complicated, hence it is advisable to use your discretion while

you stitch. If you are a beginner it is recommended to start with stitching basic kameez or a basic

anarkali suit before trying out this one. For tutorial on stitching a gathering pant visit this page.

The images are just a pictorial representation. Hence it might not be exact.

HOW TO STITCH PARALLEL PANTS/ SALWAR

Parallel pants are trendy and stylish pants that are usually worn with front opening kurtas or short tops.

The Construction and Method of stitching a parallel pant is discussed in this post.

Material required: 2 ½ metres of cloth

Measurements needed

Length of the pant: (40”)

Hip size: (36”)

Round ankle: (17”)

Construction

0 to 1 – Length of the pant + 4” = (44”)

0 to 2 – 1/3 Hip minus ½” = (11 ½”)

2 to 3 – ¼ Hip + 1” = (10”)

0 to 4 – ¼ Hip + 1” = (10”)

3 to 5 – 1/12 Hip =(3”)

Join 5 to 4 as shown

1 to 6 – Half round ankle = (8 ½”)

(Approximate measurements have been given in brackets just for understanding; use your

measurements for stitching the parallel pant)

Method

Open the cloth and fold in the reverse as shown such that the two selve edges are on top of each other.

Then fold again as shown and mark the above measurements on the cloth.

Leave the required stitching allowances as shown in the image and cut the cloth.You will have two leg

pieces and these have to be stitched together to make a parallel salwar or pant.

First begin by double folding and stitching the extra cloth along the 1 to 6 line. Once the ankle part of

both the legs has been double folded, stitch along the 5 to 6 curve. You will now have two leg pieces

ready. Once done, join the two legs by stitching along the 4 to 5 curve. Finally double fold and stitch the

extra cloth on the top along the 0 to 4 line to accommodate the drawstring (nada). Leave an opening at

the centre to insert the draw string. Cut a thin piece of cloth for the drawstring of width 3" and length =

waist length of the parallel pant + 10". Fold such that threads do not come out and stitch. Insert the

draw string through the opening and your parallel salwar is ready.

Parallel pant with elastic

For stitching an elastic, take the length of the elastic equal to your waist length +2”, pull the elastic upto

the waist length of the parallel pant and stitch the elastic on top of the cloth along the waist. Use Zigzag

stitches for this purpose and finish by folding the extra cloth properly making sure that the threads do

not come out.The parallel pant with elastic will look as shown above.

HOW TO STITCH A SEMI PATIYALA SALWAR / SEWING BASICS

Dress materials usually have salwar cloth of about 2 ½ metres length and hence only a basic salwar can

be stitched with the cloth. Since Patiyalas require more than 3 metres of cloth a patiyala cannot be

stitched. In this case a semi patiyala which has Construction similar to a salwar but resembles a patiyala

can be stitched.

The Construction for stitching a semi patiyala is similar to that of a salwar, the only modifications being

the position of pleats (or gathers) and the 2 to 3 measurement.

To stitch a semi patiyala, first note down the body measurements and cut out the leg pieces, ankle

bands, draw string and waist band. Make sure that the 2 to 3 measurement is taken as full cloth width.

Check out HOW TO STITCH a salwar for the Construction and Method of cutting the pieces.

After the pieces are cut and ready, stitch the ankle bands to the foot part of the leg pieces and then

stitch the two legs together, Finish the waist band and draw string by following the instructions given in

the previous post and keep ready.

While joining the leg pieces to the waist band, the extra cloth along the leg pieces have to be pleated at

the sides and not in front. Mark c and c1 as shown in the image. Take 8 to 10 pleats between c and c1

and similar number of pleats on the other side. The distance between c and c1 can be taken as 10”.

Pleats are not required for the front and back.

After stitching the waist band to the leg pieces, over lock the edges in the reverse to prevent threads

from coming out.

Insert the draw string through the opening and your semi patiyala is now ready.

HOW TO STITCH GATHERING PANTS / CHURIDHAR / SEWING BASICS

A Churidhar or gathering pant is often worn with Anarkali suits or short kurtis. This type of pant can be

stitched at home by following the measurements and instructions given below.

Measurements needed

Length: (41”)

Hip: (35”)

Waist to knee length: (22”)

Round knee: (14”)

Round ankle: (9”)

Approximate measurements are given in brackets just for reference. Use your body measurements for

stitching the Churidhar.

Material required

2 times length + 20 cms

Generally 2 ½ metres of cloth is required for stitching normal size Churidhar. If 46” or 48” width cloth is

available then 2 1/4 metres is sufficient.

Method

First open the cloth fully and fold in the reverse as shown. Then fold it as a triangle as shown below and

mark the measurements.

0 to 1 = length + 8” or 10” or 12” – waist band width (8”) = (41” + 10”- 8”= 43”)

0 to 2 = 1/3 hip + 1 ½” – waist band width (8”) = (11 ¾” + 1 ½” – 8” = 5 ¼”)

2 to 3 = 1/3 hip +3”= (14 ¾”)

3 to 4 = 1”

4 to 5 = straight line

0 to 6 = waist to knee length – waist band width (8”) = (22”- 8”= 14”)

6 to 7 = half round knee + ½” = (7” + ½” = 7 ½”)

1 to 8 = half round ankle = (4 ½”)

(Please note that the calculations given in brackets are just for reference. Use your measurements to

calculate the above.)

After marking the measurements on the cloth, draw the 3 to 8 curve making sure that it passes slightly

outside the 7 measurement. Now cut the cloth leaving 1” allowance along the sides and ends as shown.

Then cut pieces with required allowances according to the shape of the missing piece and stitch such

that 0253 shape is complete.

After cutting the two legs, we have to cut the waist band. Cut a single piece of cloth using the following

measurements.

0 to 1 = waist band width (8”) + 2” = 10”

0 to 2 = Full hip + 6” loose = (41”)

1 to 3 = Full hip + 6” loose = (41”)

Now for the draw string cut a thin piece of cloth using the following measurements

Length = Full hip + 6” loose + 9” or 10” = (50”)

Breadth = 1 ½”

After the cloth is cut and ready, take the two legs and double fold and stitch at the ends. If an opening is

needed at the ankle, mark 4” from the ends. From this point ‘a’ start stitching along the 8 to 3 curve. The

cloth below the marking ‘a’ has to be double folded and stitched (just as you stitch the side opening for

a kurta or kameez). After the two legs are stitched, join the two at the reverse along the 5 to 3 curves.

Next finish the waist band. Refer stitching the waist band for more details. Once the waist band is ready,

it has to be stitched to the legs. Take the waist band and make small 1/8” cuts (or mark with a chalk) at a

distance of 6” from the centre at b and b’. The pleats on the churidhar have to be stitched between b

and b’. Similarly make a small cut at the centre of the back part of the waist band at a.

First start by stitching the legs to the waist band from the back from a. i.e. Start stitching the joint along

the 5 to 3 curve and a and stitch for 1” distance. Then fold the cloth to form a single outward pleat of 1”

and stitch. (There are only 2 pleats at the back, one on either side.) Continue stitching till you reach b (or

b’). Now stop here and start stitching again from a till you reach b’(or b). Now with the remaining cloth

on the legs, take even inward pleats and stitch it to the waist band. Make sure that the joint in the

centre of the waistband coincides with the joint along the 5 to 3 curve in front. Once the pleats are

done, finish the Churidhar by over locking the extra cloth on the reverse to prevent thread from coming

out. Insert the draw string through the opening and stitch button or hooks at the ankle opening. Your

gathering pant or Churidhar is now ready.

For tutorials on stitching Anarkali suits, anarkali suits with layers and salwar visit their respective pages.

Types of salwars, types of kameez and types of anarkali suits can be found here, here and here.

LONG SLEEVES

Anarkali dresses and short kurtis usually have long sleeves. The Construction, cutting and Method of

stitching long sleeves is given below.

Construction

0 to 1 – sleeve length

0 to 2 – 1/12 chest +1/2”

2 to 3 – 1/6 chest + 1” or 2”

1 to 4 – half round arm

0 to a – elbow length

a to b – half round elbow

Method

Take an inch tape and place 0 at the shoulder joint. Measure till you reach the wrist. This is the sleeve

length. At this point measure round arm and note down the measurements. Similarly find the elbow

length and round elbow. Using your measurements calculate the above and mark on the cloth. The cloth

has to be folded in the reverse as shown. Mark the measurements on the cloth and draw the curve from

3 to 4 passing through b. Cut the cloth leaving 1” allowance at the sides and wrist and ½” allowance at

the arm holes. After the sleeves are cut, draw an inner curve as shown in the front part of each sleeve

and cut accordingly.

Once the sleeves are cut, double fold the extra cloth along the wrist end and stitch. The sleeves are now

ready to be stitched to the Kameez or Top. Use the Construction for the kameez and cut the cloth. Stitch

at the shoulders and finish the neck. Attach the sleeves to the arm holes and start stitching the sides

starting from the wrist end and ending at the side opening of the kameez. Refer HOW TO STITCH a

kameez and HOW TO STITCH anarkali suits for a detailed Construction and stitching Method.

HOW TO STITCH KAMEEZ WITH FRONT OPENING PATTERN / SEWING BASIC

A front opening kameez is usually worn with parallel pants or churidhars. The neck can either be a

normal neck or a collar can be stitched. Generally for this type of kameez stiff materials like cotton are

used. Soft and thin materials like satin and chiffon if used need a lining. A normal sized kameez requires

about 2 ½ metres of cloth.

Given below is the Method of stitching a kameez with full front opening pattern.

First take the measurements for the kameez and prepare the draft. Refer HOW TO STITCH a top for the

Construction of kameez with normal neck. If you wish to stitch a collar then refer HOW TO STITCH a

collar for the Construction of the kameez. (The draft is usually prepared up to waist length, other

measurements are marked directly on the cloth.)

After preparing the draft, take the cloth and fold as shown

Now place the draft over two pieces of cloth as shown below. Extend a and b to 2 ½” and mark on the

cloth using a chalk. The extra cloth is for the front opening. Mark the other measurements of the

Construction as well till 11 to 13 measurement (not shown in the picture). Now cut the draft leaving 1”

allowance at the sides and bottom and ½” allowance at the neck and arms. Follow the ½” allowance at

the extra cloth for the opening as well. Once the cloth for the front part is cut, use the draft for the back

to cut the cloth for the back portion of the kameez. Here the draft is placed on the fold of the cloth.

Now take one front piece and double fold 2”of cloth along the front opening and stitch. Do a straight

stitch at the end as well. Thus the width of the stitched region will now be 1”. Repeat the process with

the other piece as well. (Thus there is an extra ½” of cloth on each piece so that one piece will overlap

the other. If you want it broader, instead of 2 ½ “, take 3” extra along a to c).

After stitching the opening parts, join the back piece with the two front pieces at the shoulders, and

then finish the neck. Refer how to finish a neck or HOW TO STITCH a collar for more details. After

stitching the neck, attach the sleeves and stitch the sides. If you have stitched an A line kameez then the

opening at the sides is not necessary, but for a straight cut kameez, stitch an opening at the sides. Refer

stitching the sides and sleeves for the Method. Then double fold ½”each at the bottom end of the

kameez and stitch. Turn the kameez to the reverse ad over lock all the edges to prevent threads from

coming out.

Finally stitch buttons or hooks at equal intervals till the very end of the kameez or stop a few inches

before the end as shown in the picture.

Notes:

You can also stitch a fake opening pattern by leaving out about 5” on top and stitching the two pieces

together in such a way that from outside it would look like a normal front opening kameez pattern. But

this is slightly tricky and you have to be careful to give a neat finish to the kameez.

HOW TO STITCH A KAMEEZ WITH COLLAR / SEWING BASICS

Collars, especially the Chinese collars can be stitched on kameez and Kurtis. They are small standing

collars with front opening and are usually stitched with thick materials or a stiffener is stitched so that

the collar stands stiff. Chinese collars are of two types full Chinese and half Chinese. Full Chinese collar is

a basic collar covering the entire neck whereas half Chinese has half collar and half normal neck. Kameez

with collars are usually worn with Churidhars or gathering pants.The Construction and Method of

stitching a kameez/ top with collar is given below.

Chinese collar -------

Construction (Common for both full and half Chinese collar)

0 to 1 = Half Round neck (e.g. 7 ½”)

0 to 2 = 1”

2 to 3 = collar width = e.g. 1 ½”

1 to 4 = collar width – ½” = 1”

1 to 5 = ½”

Join 2 to 5, 4 to 5 and 3 to 4 as shown

Cut two pieces of cloth using the above measurements leaving 1/2” allowance on all sides except the

fold. The same Construction can be used for stitching both half and full Chinese collars. Place the two

pieces on top of each other and stitch on the reverse along 4 to 5 and 4’ to 5’ and 5 to 5’ line and then

turn to the correct side. The cloth along 4’ to 4 is attached to the neck part of the top.

Full Chinese collar

Full Chinese collars usually have a front opening.

Construction for kameez/ top

0 to 6 = 1/6 round neck = (2 ¼”)

0 to 7 = ½” (Back neck)

0 to 8 = 1/6 round neck + 1”= (3”)

Approximate measurements are given in brackets so that you may have an idea.

The other measurements are the same as for a normal kameez.

Mostly full Chinese collars are stitched with tops with front opening. Hence if you are stitching a top

with full front opening then leave 2 1/2" allowance along the 0 to 9 line for the front part of the top and

using the measurements cut the top leaving the required allowances. Refer HOW TO STITCH a top for

more details. After cutting the top first begin by joining the front and back pieces of the top at the

shoulders and then stitch the collar part at the neck making sure that you fold the extra cloth of the

collar and stitch such that the extra cloth along the neck of the top is sandwiched inside the collar. Make

sure that the finishing is perfect. Once the neck part is stitched, you can double fold the extra cloth

along the front opening of the top. For a fake front opening stitch the two front pieces together leaving

4" or 5" on top. The opening can be finished by double folding the cloth or stitching facing pieces of

cloth. Once the neck is ready, attach the sleeves and complete stitching the kameez in the same way as

that of normal kameez. Finally stitch buttons or hooks and your kameez with collar is ready.

Half Chinese collar

Construction for kameez/top

0 to 6 = 1/6 Round neck

0 to 7 = ½”

6 to 8 = 6” or 7” (Front neck)

The other measurements are the same as for a normal kameez.

Using the measurements cut the top leaving the required allowances. Refer HOW TO STITCH a top for

more details. After cutting the top first begin by joining the front and back pieces at the shoulders and

then stitch the collar part at the neck making sure that you fold the extra cloth along 4 to 4’ and stitch

such that the extra cloth along the neck of the top is sandwiched between the two layers of the collar.

Then finish the neck by stitching facing pieces. Refer finishing the neck for details. Once the neck is

ready, stitch the sleeves and complete stitching the dress in the same way as you stitch a normal

kameez.

HOW TO MAKE A KAFTAN / SEWING BASICS

Kaftan or Caftan is a single piece dress which can be worn as a shirt or kurti or a nightdress. The only

difference is its length. Kaftan requires the entire width of cloth and larger the width, longer will be the

length of the sleeves. Stitching is done only at the neck, sides and near the ankles. Caftans are usually

stitched with cotton, satin, nylon or silk fabrics and usually have embroidery or a print design near the

neck.

The basic Construction and Method of stitching a kaftan till the ankle is given below.

Material required:

Twice the kaftan length + 20 cm.

Measurements needed:

Take an inch tape and measure the following body measurements. For more details refer how to take

body measurements.

Kaftan length (i.e. length of the dress from the shoulders to the ankle)

Chest

Waist

Waist length

Round neck

Front neck

Back neck

Method

After taking and noting down the measurements, take the cloth and open fully. Fold in the reverse as

shown below such that you get 4 layers.

Then mark the following measurements on the cloth. Make sure that the neck region is near the fold on

top.

0 to 1 - Kaftan length + 2” (extra for folding)

0 to 2 – Full cloth width

1 to 3 – Full cloth width

0 to 4 – ¼ chest

4 to 5 – ¼ chest + 1 ½ “

0 to 6 – waist length

6 to 7 – ¼ waist + 1 ½”

0 to 8 – 1/6 round neck + ½”

0 to 9 – 3” (back neck)

8 to 10 – 5 ½” (front neck)

After marking the measurements on the cloth, cut off the

extra piece of cloth. This will be used for making the facing piece. Leave an extra allowance of 1/2" along

the neck and cut the cloth according to the neck design you want. Make sure that you hold the topmost

2 layers for cutting the front neck and the other 2 layers for cutting the back neck. You will notice that

after cutting there will be a neck shaped hole in the cloth. Open the cloth fully and place it over the

extra cloth for cutting the facing piece. (Alternately you can use another cloth of contrasting colour to

make the facing piece.)

Trace the pattern on the cloth as shown and cut on the line. Draw the same pattern at a distance of

21/2" or 3" and cut this as well. This piece will be the facing piece. Depending on whether you want it

inside or outside, stitch it to the neck. Refer finishing the neck for more details. Instead of stitching

facing pieces to the neck you can also do piping to finish the neck. After the neck is ready, fold the cloth

in the reverse and stitch at the sides in the reverse following the 573 line and do reverse (back) stitches

at the ends. Double fold and stitch the area near the ankle. Kaftan is now stitched and ready.

Variation:

To make the kaftan look more appealing, a draw string can be inserted and tied at the waist. For this a

thin waist piece is stitched in the reverse side of the kaftan.

Mark the measurements as given above and finish the neck. For the waist piece, cut a cloth of about 2

½” width and length equal to half the length of the waist + 1".

For the draw string cut two pieces of cloth with the following measurements

Length = ¼ waist + 10” (you can adjust depending whether you want the string long or short)

Width = 1”

Fold 1/4" on all the sides and fold again such that you form a thin string. Stitch on top and make sure

that the thread does not come out.

Make a small button hole at the centre of the front part of the Kaftan and finish it with a buttonhole

stitch. Take one draw string and stitch one end to one side of the kaftan. Similarly stitch another draw

string on the other side. Pull out the other ends of both the strings through the button hole. Now take

the waist piece and stitch along the waist in the reverse side of the kaftan with a ¼” fold inwards so that

the threads do not come out. Make sure that the strings are at the centre. Once the piece is stitched,

fold the cloth in the reverse and stitch along the 573 line and secure it with reverse stitches at the ends.

Double fold the extra cloth near the ankles and stitch.

HOW TO STITCH ANARKALI SUITS / SEWING BASICS

Anarkali suits are one of the most popular dresses for women. They are usually worn on special

occasions like weddings, family get-togethers and festivals. Usually stitched with thin materials like

georgettes, silks, chiffons, tissues etc they look elegant and stunning. Anarkali suits are usually worn

with churidhars or gathering pants

The basic Anarkali suit can be stitched at home by following the instructions given below. I would

suggest that you refer HOW TO STITCH normal kameez before proceeding.

Construction

0 to 2 – 1/6 chest +1"

2 to 3 – 1/4 chest + 1" or 1 ¼ " or 1 ½”

0 to 4 – half shoulder

4 to 5 – 1/2"

0 to 6 – 1/6 round neck + 1/2”

0 to 7 - Back Neck depth (standard = 3”)

6 to 8 - Front Neck depth (standard = 6”)

0 to 9 – Waist length minus 2” (since anarkali has a high waist)

9 to 10- ¼ waist + 1” or 1 ¼” or 1 ½”

Method

For stitching an anarkali top, you need two materials, one main and one for the lining. The lining cloth

should always be of the same colour as the main cloth.

To begin with, first measure and note down the body measurements. Then prepare a draft on a paper

using the Construction given above and cut on the marked lines. Keep the draft ready.

Now take the cloth, fold it in the reverse such that the two selvedges of the cloth are on top of each

other. Then fold again such that the two ends are on top of each other. Now you will have 4 layers.

Make sure that you are seeing the reverse part.

Place the draft on top of the cloth and mark the outline on the cloth using a chalk. Then leaving 1” extra

cloth along the sides and ½” extra cloth along the neck, shoulder and armhole, cut the cloth. The front

and back necks and arm holes have to be cut separately because their curves are different. Hence take

care while cutting it. The shoulder line of all the four layers must be equal. Repeat the same procedure

to cut the lining cloth.

Once the main cloth and lining cloth is cut for the front and back portions of the anarkali, stitch them

together along all the sides and curves with long stitches. This is done to hold main and lining pieces in

place. Now you will have 2 pieces, 1 for the front and another for the back. Then complete the neck and

sleeves. For these refer FINISHING THE NECK and CUTTING NORMAL SLEEVES, CUTTING PUFF

SLEEVES and CUTTING LONG SLEEVES for the Construction. Once the neck part is completed and the

sleeves are cut, stitch it to the armholes.

Now for the lower part, take a cloth, fold such that the two selvedges are on top of each other. Use the

following measurements to cut two pieces for the front and back.

Breadth = 3 times 9 to 10 measurement

Length = actual length of the kameez minus current 0 to 9 measurement

In the same way cut the lining cloth. After cutting the two cloths, take the main and lining cloth and

pleat it together and stitch with the front side of the upper part. Similarly pleat and stitch the other two

cloths with the back part of the upper part.

Use the following measurements and cut 2 pieces of the remaining main cloth and lining cloth to get a

band. Take 1 main band and 1 lining band and stitch it in the reverse on both sides leaving ends open

and turn to the correct side. Do the same thing with the other 2 pieces. Stitch at the joints of the front

and back portions.

a to b = twice 9 to 10 measurement + 2” extra

a to c = 1 ½ “ or 2” +1” extra for stitching

Now stitch both the sides starting from the sleeve ends to the upper part of the top. For the lower part,

stitch the lining and the main part separately at the sides. The bottom end of the lining should be double

folded 2” to 3” whereas the bottom end of the main dress can be double folded 1/2" or a pico can be

stitched.

Anarkali tops can be worn with churidhar or full length leggings.

HAREM PANTS PATTERNS

Harem pants/ trousers are a very popular in India and abroad. They are roomy loose pants which are

often worn with t-shirts or short kurtis/tops. These fashionable pants are usually stitched with thin and

non transparent fabrics and come in a wide variety of patterns, shapes and sizes. A few patterns are

given below. The tutorial for stitching a harem pant at home can be found here.

1. Basic Harem pant which resembles a Patiala salwar and has fabric pleated and stitched at the ankle

with a band. This type is often worn with a short kurti.

2. Here there is no waist band and the pleats start from a few inches below the waist. A wide elastic at

the waist and a thin one at the ankle is used. This looks more elegant and is often worn with shirts and t

shirts.

3. Harem pants which end at knee length or just below the knee are also very popular. The pattern

below has a wide elastic both at the waist and at the place where it ends.

4. Harem pants which look like skirt up till the knees or lower and then have fitted or slightly loose fitting

legs are also popular these days.

These are just a few types. There are plenty more patterns of Harem pants with different cuts and

styles... Will update this page with more patterns soon... :)

OTHER KAMEEZ PATTERNS 1. Shoulder kalli ------- This type of kameez resembles the princess cut in volume and design. The only

difference is that the joints start from the shoulders and not the arms.

2. Neck gathering------- This type of kameez has gatheings at the neck and the dress is quite loose.

Hence a belt or band is tied around the waist.

3. Overlapping------- Here one part of the top overlaps the other upto the waist or fully. It can be either

real overlapping or false overlapping with a small opening at the neck.

4. Kameez with kallis------- In this type, 2 or more kallis ( extra pieces ) are added to increase the volume

of the dress at the lower part.

5. Kameez with yoke------- Yoke is an extra piece that is stitched at the neck area. It is usually

embroidered and has different shapes and patterns.

6. Kameez with gatherings ------- In this type of kameez the upper part is same as A line kameez

whereas the lower part has slight gatherings a few inches below the hips.

This type of kameez is usually short and has gathers a few inches below the the hips.

This type has gatherings at the top and is slightly loose because of the gathers. Hence it is usually

stitched with a thin material to reduce the volume and create a flowing effect.

These three types of kameez are usually worn with churidhars.

BASIC TYPES OF KAMEEZ / KURTA Depending on the design and cut, there are different types of kameez. I am giving below some of the

basic types.

1. Normal straight cut------- This is the basic type of kameez which is worn both long and short with

normal salwars, churidhars and patiyalas. It goes well with almost every type of salwar. It has slits on

both the sides.

2. A line cut------- As the name suggests it has cut which resembles the letter A. This type of kameez is

usually worn long with salwar or churidhar.

3. Anarkali ------- This is the most stylish type of kameez, which is worn with churidhars. It has gatherings

(frills) at the waist or slightly above the waist.

4. Princess cut------- This type of kameez is cut in such a way such that it is fitting at the top and has

volume much higher than an A line kameez at the bottom. It is also usually worn with churidhars.

5. Kameez with front opening------- In this type of kameez, either there is a full front opening with hooks

or buttons or a fake opening in which there is an opening only for about 5" or 6" and the rest is stitched.

It usually has a slit at the front. This type of kameez is often worn with parallel pants. But it also goes

well with churidhars, salwars and patiyalas. Kameez with collars too are stitched with a front opening.

NORMAL SLEEVES Construction

0 to 1 - sleeve length

0 to 2 - 1/12 chest + ½”

2 to 3 - 1/6 chest + 1”

1 to 4 - Half round arm +1/2”

Method

First fold twice the cloth such that you get 4 layers one on top of the other. Then mark the

measurements on the cloth as shown.

Join 0 to 3 through a curve as shown passing through ‘a’. ‘b’ is the midpoint of ‘a’ and 3. Take ‘c’ 1/2”

from ‘b’ and draw another curve as shown. The inner curve through ‘c’ is for the front arm hole and the

outer curve through ‘b’ is for the back arm hole. Then leaving ½” allowance along 0 to 3 curve and 1”

allowance along 3 to 4 and 1 to 4 lines, cut the cloth. Double fold the extra cloth along the 1 to 4 line

and stitch. The sleeves are now ready.

Check out the following tutorials for cutting and stitching other types of sleeves.

LONG SLEEVES

Anarkali dresses and short kurtis usually have long sleeves. The Construction, cutting and Method of

stitching long sleeves is given below.

Construction

0 to 1 – sleeve length

0 to 2 – 1/12 chest +1/2”

2 to 3 – 1/6 chest + 1” or 2”

1 to 4 – half round arm

0 to a – elbow length

a to b – half round elbow

Method

Take an inch tape and place 0 at the shoulder joint. Measure till you reach the wrist. This is the sleeve

length. At this point measure round arm and note down the measurements. Similarly find the elbow

length and round elbow. Using your measurements calculate the above and mark on the cloth. The cloth

has to be folded in the reverse as shown. Mark the measurements on the cloth and draw the curve from

3 to 4 passing through b. Cut the cloth leaving 1” allowance at the sides and wrist and ½” allowance at

the arm holes. After the sleeves are cut, draw an inner curve as shown in the front part of each sleeve

and cut accordingly.

Once the sleeves are cut, double fold the extra cloth along the wrist end and stitch. The sleeves are now

ready to be stitched to the Kameez or Top. Use the Construction for the kameez and cut the cloth. Stitch

at the shoulders and finish the neck. Attach the sleeves to the arm holes and start stitching the sides

starting from the wrist end and ending at the side opening of the kameez. Refer HOW TO STITCH a

kameez and HOW TO STITCH anarkali suits for a detailed Construction and stitching Method.

PUFF SLEEVES

Anarkali dresses and kurtis usually have long or puff sleeves. The Construction, cutting and Method of

stitching puff sleeves is given below.

For tutorial on stitching long sleeves and normal sleeves, check out their respective pages.

Construction:

0 to 1 = sleeve length

0 to 2 = 1/12 chest + ½”

2 to 3 = 1/6 chest + 2 ½”

1 to 4 = 2 to 3 measurement – 1”

0 to 5 = 1 ½”

4 to 6 = ½”

1 to 7 is midpoint of 1 to 4

Join 1, 7 & 6 as shown

Join 5 & 3 as shown

Method:

Place 0 of the inch tape at the shoulder joint and measure the sleeve length till the point where you

want the sleeves to end. (Usually puff sleeves are shorter). Measure round arm at this point and note

down the two measurements. Open the cloth and fold in the reverse as shown in the picture. Using the

body measurements calculate and mark on the cloth. Draw the curves joining 1 7 and 6 and 3 and 5 as

shown. Cut the cloth leaving 1” allowance at the sides and ½” allowance at the arm holes and near the

round arms.

After the sleeves are cut, cut a deeper arm hold on the front part of each sleeve to coincide with that of

the arm hole in the front part of the kameez.

At the point where the sleeve ends, an elastic of length = round arm can be stitched and a picot can be

done. Alternately, the ends can be pleated such that the length will reduce to that of the round arm and

a thin strip of cloth can be stitched.

As you attach the sleeves to the arm holes of the kameez, make sure to stitch the pleats near the

shoulder joint of the kameez. The remaining Method of stitching a kameez has already been discussed

in earlier posts. Check out these pages for tutorials on stitching kameez and anarkali suits.

FINISHING THE NECK

For finishing the neck first place the neck of the back piece on an extra cloth and draw an outline. Then

remove the back piece and mark lines as shown and cut the piece. This piece is called a facing piece.

Similarly place the front piece of the top on another extra cloth and draw the outline. Remove the piece

and mark lines as shown and cut the piece. Now we have two facing pieces, one for the front and

another for the back. Fold ½” along the sides of both the facing pieces and give a stitch. This is done to

prevent thread from coming out. These two pieces will be used to finish the neck and will not be seen as

they will be stitched in the reverse side of the dress.

Stitching the pieces

First place the reverse side of the facing piece on the correct side of the back piece and stitch on the

line, ½” from the end of the neck. Then make small cuts on the extra cloth. This is done to facilitate

turning of the attached facing piece. Do the same thing with the front piece.

Then place the front and back pieces of the top such that their correct sides are facing each other and

stitch on the reverse side over the marked line on one side of the shoulder, and continue to stitch over

the two facing pieces also. Similarly stitch at the other end. Then fold the facing pieces to the reverse

side and stitch along the neck to set it in place. The neck area is now finished.

STITCHING THE SIDES

First attach the sleeves to the arm holes. For this, first fold the sleeve into half and mark the centre as

shown. Then place the sleeve such that the centre of the sleeve and the shoulder joint coincides and the

correct sides of the sleeve and top are facing each other. Stitch on the reverse side on the line marked.

Similarly attach the other sleeve.

Then start stitching at the sides as shown and stop on reaching the starting pt of the opening and give a

few back stitches. Similarly stitch the other side. Then double fold the extra cloth at the opening in the

reverse side and stitch on the correct side as shown. Do the same thing on the other side also.

HOW TO STITCH A PRINCESS CUT KAMEEZ For making a princess cut kameez, use the same measurements as that of the normal kameez to make a

paper draft till 9 to 10 measurement. After making the draft, make the following modifications on the

draft.

6 to e=1/4 chest+1” or 1 ¼” or 1 ½”

2e to e= 1/8 chest

Join ‘d’ and ‘e’ through a curve and extend up to ‘f’. Then cut the paper draft into 2 by following the

curve.

Place neck part of the draft over the fold of the cloth and mark till the waist. Then take 1 to g = 6” or 8”.

Leave ½” allowance and cut along the neck and sides and 1” along the bottom. Similarly cut the back

piece.

Then place the second half over the cloth and mark till the waist. Mark g to h=12” or 16” and ‘h’ to

‘I’=1”. Draw a curve, and leaving 1” along the sides and bottom and ½” along all the other sides, cut the

cloth. In the same way cut other 3 pieces.

Now there are 2 central pieces and 4 side pieces. Join all the pieces and continue to stitch the top by

finishing the neck first then stitching the sleeves and finally joining the sides. It does not have an

opening at the sides.

.

Princess cut Kameez looks best when worn with gathering pants or churidhars.

ANARKALI SUITS/ BASIC ANARKALI PATTERNS Anarkali suits have been in fashion from several decades. They became a rage when they were worn by

actresses in old Hindi movies and continue to be one of the most sought after Indian dresses due to

their royal charm and elegance.

The basic anarkali top has a high waist body and the lower part has a large volume of cloth pleated and

stitched to the upper part. Usually a band is stitched at the joint. It is worn long with Churidhar pants. Of

late several new designs of anarkali suits are available in the market. Some of the common ones are

given below.

1. Anarkali with multiple kallis------- Instead of cloth being pleated and stitched for the lower part as in

normal anarkali, this Method involves cutting the cloth into small kallis and stitching them together. The

USP here is that there are no pleats and hence there is no volume at the waist. Another benefit of this

pattern is that you can have kallis of 2 or 3 colours.

2. One piece anarkali------- Here a single piece of cloth is used for both upper and lower parts. The upper

part is pleated at regular intervals and stitched on the top in long vertical lines. As a result directly

creating pleats at the lower part. This usually does not have a band at the waist.

3. Anarkali with layers or tiers------- In this type of anarkali suit 3, 4 or 5 layers are pleated and stitched

one below the other. The layers can be of the same colour or 2 or 3 different but related colours.

4. Anarkali with umbrella cut skirt------- Here the cloth is cut in umbrella style (half or full depending on

the cloth used) and stitched to the upper part with or without a band. Due to the style of the cut there

are no pleats, not many joints and hence has a nice appearance.

The tutorial on HOW TO STITCH Anarkali suits can be found here.

TYPES OF SKIRTS Skirts are one of the most essential garments in a girl’s wardrobe. From traditional ghagras to the

regular floral skirts, the appeal of skirts is indisputable. Teamed with a matching top and a stylish scarf

or dupatta they look fabulous. They are also very comfortable to wear and trendy. Depending on the

volume of the skirt and its design, skirts are of different types.

1. Flare skirts or umbrella skirts------- Flare skirts have a large volume and are cut in a way that they

resemble an umbrella. (i.e. if the wearer spins, the skirt takes the form of a full circle ala umbrella).

There are 3 types of flare skirts

a. Full flare skirt – It has a perfect umbrella shape and is often stitched with thin and soft materials.

b. Half flare skirt –As the name suggests it has half the volume of a full flare skirt. This is commonly used

for day to day wear.

c. Wrap around skirt – It is similar to the half flare skirt but is not stitched on one side. It is wrapped

around the waist and tied with a band.

2. Normal skirts – These skirts are usually made with thick and translucent materials. They sometimes

have slits at the sides or back to facilitate easy walking. There are 3 types of normal skirts.

a. A line skirt - This type of skirt looks like the alphabet A and hence the name. This is very comfortable

and is often used for casual wear.

b. Straight skirt – This type of skirt has a straight cut. It can be worn long with one side slit or till just

below the knee with back slit.

c. Narrow skirt – Narrow skirt narrows down as it reaches the end. This usually has a back slit and is

worn till just below the knee.

3. Pleated skirts – This is a very basic type of skirt in which cloth is pleated at the waist and stitched.

Apart from the basic ones, there are also other types of skirts.

4. Fish cut skirt –This type of skirt is similar to normal skirts but the lower portion of the skirt looks like a

fish or mermaid tail. Nowadays fish cut ghagras and lachas are also in fashion. Evening gowns are also

stitched in this pattern.

5. Divided skirt –This type of skirt is usually worn short with broad square pleats at the waist and is

divided like a pant. This type of skirt is often used in sports wear

uniforms.

6. Layered skirt – This skirt has several layers stitched one below the other with increasing flare. It may

be single coloured or multi coloured.

7. Skirt with panels – This skirt has several panels or kallis stitched together. It can also be multi

coloured.

These are some of the basic types of skirts. I will be updated this page with more varieties soon.