gardening on the edge newsletter, june-july 2006 ~ monterey bay master gardeners

8/9/2019 Gardening on the Edge Newsletter, June-July 2006 ~ Monterey Bay Master Gardeners

1/12

G A R D E N I N G O N T H E E D G Enewsletter of the monterey bay master gardeners

Number 118 June-July 2006

What a different winter and springseason we have had this year here onthe Central Coast of California! Therewas rain, rain, hail, and then more rainever since January and very few daysof actual sunshine. Whenever the rainlet up for more than two days I couldhear weed eaters and riding lawnmowers being used to cut down thevery healthy crop of plants we considerweeds around my neighborhood itwas quite a winter and spring. It isnow late April and I am still patientlywaiting for spring to arrive!

My roses have been very late thisyear the Monterey Bay Rose Societycancelled their annual rose show thisyear because no one had any roses toenter. Other rose societies have done

the same. At the time of this writing Iam watching some of my roses bloombut most are just beginning to show newgrowth or form buds. I am lookingforward to seeing and smelling somespectacular flowers in the next couple ofmonths.

By this time (mid/late April) most ofus have pruned our roses and fertilizedat least twice to get our plants off to agood start. By late May or June andeven into early July, most of our one

time bloomers will have done theirthing and the shrubs and hybrid teaswill have put on their first flush and thefirst hips of the season will be forming.If we want more flowers from our rosesthat bloom more than one time(remontant) a year, then we need to taketime to deadhead, fertilize, mulch,water, and keep our plants clean.

Deadheading

Some roses are self-cleaning in thatthey shed their spent flowers as newbuds are formed. Many of the Noisettesare like this and do not require too muchpruning during the growing season.However, most roses will benefit fromdeadheading or removing the spentflowers as they fade and their petalsdrop. On recently planted roses (firstyear plants) trim back the flower heads

to the first or second 3-leafed node sothat the plant will have more foliage tosupport growth. On more establishedroses cut back to the first or second 5-leafed node that faces in the directionyou want the new shoot to grow generally this means an outward facingnode so as not to inhibit air circulationto the center of the plant. One of theConsulting Rosarians from theMonterey Bay Rose Society tells methat she will cut back some (not all)branches in late July to less than this inorder to encourage strong well formedbranches and better flowers for theSanta Cruz County Fair in September something to consider if you plan onentering your roses in the fair this yearAlways use a clean sharp clipper todeadhead your plants. Try spraying a

little alcohol on the blades after cuttingeach plant. Deadhead after each roundof bloom. If you have a great number oroses, this can become an everyday tasas you walk around enjoying yourgarden. If one time bloomers aredeadheaded and pruned after theybloom for the season, they will rewardyou with more abundant blooms and abetter looking plant the followingseason.

FertilizingRoses do not have to be fertilized to

survive. They will grow and makeflowers. However, if your goal is tohave strong, vigorous plants thatproduce great disease free leaves andlarge flowers with the best fragrance,then feeding your soil is of paramountimportance. The three main nutrientsare nitrogen, phosphorus, andpotassium. There are many chemical

Rose Care in the Summer GardenRice Flower

A Pond for All ReasonsMBMG Class of 2006 in Action

Container Watering TipsPruning Japanese Maples

Garden Faire UpdateAls Corner

Book Review

Rose Care in the Summer Garden by Paul McCollum, MG

continued on page two


2/12

inorganic fertilizers on the market todaythat do a good job. There are a couple ofthings to remember if you use theseformulations on your roses.

1. Read the label carefully! Look for

the type of nitrogen that is used. If ureais the nitrogen source, know that it is theleast readily available for the rose to use.In order to be used it must be acted uponby the fungus and bacteria in the soil.Nitrate nitrogen if the most availablefollowed by ammoniacal nitrogen.

2. When using inorganic, watersoluble fertilizers it must be rememberedthat watering your plants is absolutelynecessary. I have been told that after

applying water soluble fertilizer oneneeds to water, wait a day or two, andwater again, and repeat this regimen forat least a couple of weeks.

It also should be remembered thatmany of these fertilizers (not all of them)are only made up of NPK without any ofthe trace elements. So, Nitrogen (N) isgoing to stimulate growth and producedark healthy foliage. Phosphorus (P)stimulates and promotes a healthy rootsystem and enhances flowering.

Potassium (K) is essential forphotosynthesis and helps the plant storenutrients. It also intensifies bloom colorand promotes growth.

Trace elements for roses includesulfur for adjusting the PH of the soil,calcium for helping to build strong cellwalls, and magnesium which helpstransport the nutrients. Trace elementssuch as manganese, boron, zinc, copper,molybdenum, iron, and chlorine are also

required for optimum growth and aregenerally already in the soil and in mostcity and well water.

Organic fertilizers include blood meal(12-0-0), bone meal (6-12-0), cottonseedmeal (7-3-2). Those best used in warmsoils are fish emulsion (5-1-1), seaweedextract (9-2-7), and manures such ascow, horse, pig, poultry, worm castings,rabbit, and bat guano.

My opinion is that good qualityhomemade or commercial compostmixed with worm castings, with only afew exceptions, is just about all thefertilizer any plant needs. Properly madecompost tea (brewed with catalyst andoxygen for a specific time at a specific

temperature) and used as a soil drench orfoliar spray is also a complete fertilizer.

I much prefer organic methods tochemical. However, whatever way youdecide to fertilize a good program wouldbe to apply your fertilizer just afterpruning (January/February), again inApril, then after deadheading and againin mid-summer but no later than mid tolate September. Remember that a littleeach time is better than a lot all at onetime.

Mulch

Roses will benefit with mulchingduring the summer months. Mulch withalmost any organic material. However, ifcompost is used as a mulch, it will notrob the soil of nitrogen as will woodchips, grass clippings, leaves, straw,newspaper, or other unprocessed organicmaterials. Mulch should be applied afterthe rain stops and the soil has heated alittle. May would have been a good time

to start but it is still not too late. Applymulch 3 to 4 thick (it will shrink) anddo not dig it into the soil. Mulch ismulch if it remains on top of the soil ifit is incorporated into the soil it becomesfertilizer. Compost used as mulch acts asa slow release fertilizer as it melts intothe soil from the bottom. Keep in mindthat by applying compost as a mulch thisseason you are helping to create thegarden soil for next season. Every yearthis is done will make the soil better and

better.

Water

Roses will survive without fertilizerbut not without water. They arereasonably drought tolerant and with adust mulch will last longer. However,roses do better with regular moisture especially if high quality flowers are thegoal. All water is not the same.

Rainwater is PH neutral. City waterand well water in our area is alkalinebecause our soil tends to be alkaline.Keep in mind that the PH of the waterwill affect the Ph of the soil and mostroses like a PH of about 6.5. Water youroses the day before applying fertilizer

and just after applying the fertilizer. Thgeneral rule for roses is to water at a raof about 1 to 2 of water per week.Avoid stressing your roses by beingconsistent with your watering scheduleRose roots extend 18 to 24 deep andjust past the outer most leaves or dripline. Watering can be accomplished byusing a hose, a soaker hose, or dripirrigation. It is best to water early in theday so that the plant can dry out duringthe day. Watering late in the day createa perfect environment for spreading

disease.

Cleanliness

In order to keep down disease andunwanted insects you should keep yourroses clean. Remove any fallen leavesand remove any diseased leaves. Ifproblems develop like black spot,mildew, or rust, remove the affectedparts and spray with Neem Oil or RoseGuard. Most of us have home remediesthat work for us so use what issuccessful for you. My experience is tha healthy plant tends to stay healthy.

Endnote

This is by no means an exhaustivestudy on rose care so if there are anyquestions please feel free to call me or mail me at [email protected], if you have techniques that mayhave worked for you please share themAfter all, our whole purpose as MasterGardeners is to learn and pass onknowledge. Have a great season!

References:

Pacific Horticulture: April/May/June2006The Bay Rose, Joe Truskot, Editor, Ap2006, MBRSRose Primer by Orin Martin 2005Vintage Gardens Catalog, 2000 edition

continued from page one

2 MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS June-July 2


3/12

Rice Flower by Bonnie Pond, MG 02A native of coastal

Queensland and New SouthWales, Australia, the riceflower is an upright,

perennial, multi-branched,and woody shrub. Formerlyknown asHelichrysumdiomifolius, the rice floweris in the Asteraceae family.There are many types butthey fall into two maingroups: broad leaf, usuallyassociated with higherrainfall areas, and narrowleaf types. It is the narrowleaf type that is cultivatedfor the cut flower market.The name comes from the Greek ozo meaning smell andthamnos meaning shrub.

The rice flower plant in my garden has fine narrow greenleaves, pink flowers, and is five feet tall by three feet wide.Blossoms occur at the ends of branches most of the year indense clusters of creamy to dark pink that gradually turnwhite.

The rice flower is planted in a drought tolerant area andexposed to the full force of the wind. Natural growingrequirements are fertile, well-drained soil, or moundplanting if the ground has a lot of clay, and regular watering

it dislikes wet feet. The plant is subject to Phytophthora annematodes. For best growth, plants should be pinched backwhen young to encourage a low bushy shape.

The rice flower is fast becoming a staple of florist shopseverywhere. It has a long vase life and can be used as fillerin either fresh or dried form. In the commercial flowermarket it is called rice flower everlasting. The flowers weharvested in the wild until the late 1980s. It is now widelycultivated in Australia and the United States. Cultivars havbeen created that will grow in specific conditions and havelonger stems with more flowers.

Propagation is by stem cutting. Roots take 5 to 8 weeksto develop. I have some stem cuttings started and will befollowing their progress. Plants can be grown from seedbut they are not always true to the parent.

This plant is a nice addition to my garden and addssomething special to flower arrangements. Essential oils aralso made from the rice plant.

Plant History: The popularity of the rice flower is due tthe efforts of Graham and Esther Cook. They looked atnative flowers of their area of Queensland to see what theycould grow for the cut flower market. After many trials the

propagated a fast growing plant that was drought tolerantand tolerant of salty water. In 1988 they did their firstcommercial plantings. Their most popular cultivars areCooks Snow White and Cooks Tall Pink which werereleased in 1993.

Helichrysum diomifolius, the rice flower

MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS June-July 2006


4/12

It all started one nice sunny weekendwhen my son and daughter-in-law werevisiting. Our daughter-in-law, Shyla,said, as she was looking at our drycreek bed, That would be a good placefor a pond. I thought about that andrealized she was right. Of course, wehad to research this pond thing we weregetting into. We found some goodbooks to use for the basics. We decidedthe pond would be in the smallish sizerange, about 7 by 5. And it should bedeep enough so that raccoons wouldhave to swim to get to the fish. (I hadheard that raccoons couldnt swim andeat at the same time. I have since foundthat idea questionable.) We wantedplants around the sides and a waterfall

at the end. In order to do that, thereneeded to be benches left in the dirtwhere the plants would sit.

So, were (Im using the royal wehere) ready to start digging. We movedall the dry creek rocks and saved themfor later. I was able to convince myhusband to do the digging. Oli (thehusband/digger) marked out a kind ofirregular oval with some powdered

fertilizer, and started digging. He dugout the middle and end by the waterfallarea to about three feet and leftbenches around the other end andsides down to about 12 deep.

Now, the really careful studyinghappens. Of course, we would have toseal the bottom and sides with somekind of plastic liner. We could havegotten it on-line, but its heavy and theshipping costs would be astronomical.We found some good 80 mil. pond linerat Home Depot for a reasonable price.There needed to be some kind ofcushion under it, to keep any rocksfrom puncturing the liner from thebottom. We had some old carpet pieces

that would fit and used that in thepond, soft side up.

Next, we wrestled that thick heavypiece of liner into place, and realizedthat there had to be a lot of tucks in it toget it to fit. At the time I didnt likethat, but now, years later, I cant evensee them. Its very important to get thetop of the pond level all the awayaround.

We left about two feet of liner onthe ground around the perimeter andstarted piling our first stones on theedge. After the first rows of stoneswere in place, we folded the liner bacover them and piled the second row ostones over them, cutting the extra linso it wouldnt be seen. The idea here that when (not if) the pond overflowswont overflow over the sides and seeunder the liner and cause it to sag inthat one spot. In our case, the dry creebed has a drain in the end. We made tpond so that end is slightly lower thanthe rest of the sides. When it rains a lothe surplus water will drain out that enand flow down the drain and around thouse and down the hill in back.

Now, were ready for the filter andpump. If you plan to have plants and/fish, you have to have a filter as well a pump. We started too small. We gotfilter and pump from Beckett and itworked for a while, but a couple oftimes in January, up to my kneescleaning out that filter, I was ready fosomething else. (That water is coldinJanuary!) That first filter was a plastic

A Pond for All Reasons by Jan Olafsson, MG 0



5/12


box about the size of a shoebox. Inthere was the pump, some plastic ballswith many sides and some sponge-likesheets. It was much like a big aquariumfilter, but it was placed in the bottom ofthe pond and had to be removed toclean itoften. Clearly, it was toosmall.

I wanted a filter that was outof thepond so its easier to clean andmaintain. We looked at the bio-filterunits that are for sale and decided wecould make a similar thing for muchcheaper. There are a lot of places thathave pond filter supplies, includingmost big pet stores. We got our newpump from Pet Pals in Soquel. A 24square green plastic planter wasmodified for a bio-filter that has

worked very well for years now. Weveonly had to clean it out about once ayear. Now the pump is in the pond andthe filter is outside near the waterfall.Oli drilled two holes in the planter boxnear the top to accommodate PVCpiping to the pond. (He used marinefittings to go through the sides of theplanter.) The water from the pond

comes over the top and goes to thebottom of the filter box. He put aplastic grate at the bottom of the boxand filled the space above with 2pieces of PVC pipe. This providesmany surfaces for bacteria to cling toand clean the water. Above this, aretwo layers of barley mat, (get at any

pond supply store), and about 2 oflava rock. The two holes are above allthis and collect the filtered water andsend it back to the pond. He put twohoses here to make a sheet of watercoming over the waterfall. (You coulduse only one, as well.) I put a sheet ofshade fabric over the planter to keepthe leaves out of the filter.

The waterfall consists mostly ofbigger rocks piled so there is a space

for the hoses running from the filterunder the top rock. You have to playaround with the sound a bit. We boughta flat piece of slate to get the fall justright.

For fish, we got a dozen goldfish(very cheap) and some mosquito fish(free) and we still have many left. Icant say how many because most ofthe time I cant see them all. In thebeginning, we were losing fish toraccoons and/or kingfishers. I built a

little shelter that spans the gap betweenthe shelves out of PVC pipe andshade cloth. Its a place the fish can get

away from the predators and be safe.Lately, Ive found that mousetraps setaround the pond discourage theraccoons. They get snapped, dontlike it, and go elsewhere.

Its nice to have tall plants in yourpond, but where we are, the wind will

sometimes blow them over (or theraccoons will have what I call poolparties and knock them over). Tosolve this, I put big rocks in the bottoof an oversized pot when I re-pot themIn the case of my papyrus, I used bricin the bottom. I bought about threewater lilies and discovered you have tdivide them to keep them blooming.So, in the spring, I try to pull them ouand divide them. This was pretty scarthe first time, considering the cost of

the first ones, but it worked out verywell and I was able to contribute someto the Master Gardeners plant sale.

The hummingbirds and other birdsuse the waterfall to drink and bathe.We love the sound of the gently fallinwater. All in all, its been a fun andchallenging project my daughter-in-lacame up with. And now she has a ponin her front yard too!

References:

Orthos All About Garden Pools andFountains, Meredith Books;The Pond Doctor, by Helen Nash,Sterling Books.

Pond Plant Possibilities

Submerged/Oxygenating PlantsAnacharis (Egeria densa)Bacopa (Bacopa caroliniana)Cabomba, Purple (Cabomba

pulcherrima)Foxtail (Myriophyllum heterophyllum )Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum)Jungle Val (Vallisneria americana)Moneywort (Bacopa monnieri)Dwarf Sagittaria (Sagittaria subulata

Floating PlantsAzolla - water fern (Azolla caroliniana)Duckweed (Lemna minor)Mosaic Plant (Ludwigia sedioides)Parrot's Feather (Myriophyllum aquaticum )Salvinia - Floating Moss (Salvinia minima)Sensitive Plant (Neptunia oleracea)Water Hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes)Water Lettuce (Pistia stratiotes)

Lotus PlantsChawan Basu -Nelumbo (white with pink

tips)Double Rose -Nelumbo (double - rose/pink)Momo Botan - dwarf -Nelumbo (pink)Mrs. Perry D. Slocum -N. nucifera

(changeable)Perry's Giant Sunburst -N. nucifera (yellow)Red Scarf -N. nucifera (red)


6/12


The MBMG Class of 2006 In Action by Christina Kriedt, MG The Class of 2006 is

comprised ofenthusiastic, engaged,interesting people. We

have thoroughlyenjoyed the processand look forward to

our continued growthas Master Gardeners.

About half of the classis represented here.

Congratulations to Silver and

Gold Badge Recipients!

Silver:

Joan McLeod Mertz 99

Martye Lumpkin 01

Gigi Tacheny 01

Leora Worthington 03

Gold:

Paul McCollum 04


7/12


Container Watering Tips by Christina Kriedt, MG 0Gardening in containers is a great option for those who have

restricted space, limited physical mobility, no soil, or lets faceit control issues. Unlike planting in the ground, the use ofcontainers allows one to cater to the specific needs of fussy plantssuch as those that are acid loving or others that require perfectdrainage. I love that containers can be moved around on a whim,

even indoors for the winter. My orchids and Ficusbenjaminadont know where they belong they are moved so often.

The size, color, and composition of the container, placement,drainage holes, and plant choices are all important considerations.But as an avid hand-watering container gardener, one of thebiggest challenges I face is keeping the potting mediumsomewhere between boggy and impermeably rock-hard. Here are afew tips, some that I learned by trial and error and others gleanedfrom the Internet:

Choose a commercial or homemade planting medium that ismixed specifically for containers with lots of water-retaining

organic material. Some media will be difficult to wet when theybecome very dry and will need to be dunked for a while to re-absorb water.

Remove the plants from their pots every one to two years, fullyreplacing the degraded medium, thus minimizing the effects ofcompaction, otherwise known as the concrete mass aroundwhich your precious water flows unimpeded. Fresh planting mixwill be light and fluffy, serving your plants well until it toobecomes degraded and compacted over time. If a medium hasbecome waterproof in spite of my efforts and repotting is not onthe days agenda, my temporary fix is to poke many deep holeswith a long metal skewer, allowing water to flow into themedium again.

Do not place a layer of gravel or other drainage material in thebottom of the pot before adding the soil: the gravel decreasesthe total volume of medium with favorable aeration. The pores atthe interface of the container medium and gravel must besaturated before water will move down into the gravel. Thismeans that a layer of medium with near maximum water contentis positioned above the gravel rather than on the containerbottom. Therefore, the effective height of this container isreduced by the depth of the gravel in the bottom. (Dewayne L.Ingram, Richard W. Henley and Thomas H. Yeager, Universityof Florida, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/CN004, August 1991.) You can, however, cover

the drainage hole with a piece of wire or plastic mesh. I dontbother.

Avoid really small pots, as they will dry out much faster thantheir larger cousins. Rather than planting one plant per littlecontainer, try grouping several with similar cultural requirementsin a larger container. Obviously, clay dries out faster thanplastic, small dries out faster than large and those in the sun dryout faster than those in shade. Artfully clustering pots keepsthem cooler in a hot spot.

Black is hotter than white. Dr. Carl Whitcomb in his book PlantProduction in Containers states that this study shows that heatstress on plant roots in containers is a serious problem. The rapidloss of roots following exposure correlates with the abrupt plant

stress frequently observed when container-grown plants arespaced during the summer. Roots killed by heat are prime sitefor the entrance of root-rot disease organisms. Root death frohigh temperatures may be a major factor in providing an easyentrance to root diseases. There have been some studies onreplacing black plastic with white plastic but while white

containers do reduce the soil temperature, the white polyethybecomes brittle on UV exposure and falls apart. But in generathe lighter the color of the containers the less the effect fromsunlight. Something to consider. (Andy Walsh, Root Heat iContainers, http://www.evergtreengardenworks.com/rootheahtm, December, 2005.)

Double potting can mitigate moisture loss and keep the root zcooler: place the growing pot inside a larger container and filthe space between them with sphagnum moss or pea gravel. Ycan get the lovely look of clay pots with the moisture retentioof the plastic pot inside if thats what you fancy. Both potsshould have drainage holes.

Dont water a plant that doesnt need it. You can tell how dry

plant is by lifting the pot or by spotting the first slightly wiltinleaf. Feel the soil to 1 down; if its dry, water; if not, dont. Iread about a gardener who plants an indicator plant that showearly signs of water stress, such as coleus, among otherornamentals. When the coleus wilts, he waters.

Hydrogels (hydrophilic polymers) are hard, crystal-likepolymers that absorb water. In theory, this absorbed water isthen slowly made available to plant roots to prevent or delaywater stress. Individual particles will absorb between 60 and times their dry weight in water, depending on the specific typCaution is advised if you are incorporating hydrogels into thepotting mix. Hydrogels are known to break down in the prese

of fertilizer salts, so you will probably increase their usefulneby using only slow-release fertilizers and irrigation water lowsoluble salts. Also, do not use more than the manufacturersrecommended rate per container or area; plants have actuallypopped out of the soil and containers in wet seasons or underheavy irrigation because there was too much hydrogel in themix. (Garden in Containers, HYB-1254-00, Jane C. Martin,Extension Agent, Horticulture, OHIO State UniversityExtension, http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1254.hrml.)

Water until it runs out the drainage holes, then fill it to its topagain. I place my houseplants in 6 of tepid water until bubblstop rising to the surface, a few minutes in most cases. I cantmy larger outside pots, so I water them slowly and gently

making sure to wet all the soil to the pot interface, not just inmiddle. Be suspicious if the water runs out the drainage holestwo seconds after you start pouring; check to see if its justrunning in rivulets between the shrunken, dry medium and thcontainer; might be time to refresh the container with new looplanting mix. Your plant will be eternally grateful --- at least a couple more years.

Mulch will aid in moisture retention. I like to use smallrocks that Ive collected all over the West Coast. Gives me anexcuse to continue to collect them. A rock mulch has the addebenefit of taking thousands of years to decompose.How great is that?


8/12


Pruning Japanese MaplesImpressions from a Novice Pruner by Kari Olsen, MG 06

Pruning Japanese Maples reflects the Japanese Art ofenhancing the trees natural grace and beauty.Yamagamis Japanese Maple Handout

Yamagamis Nursery in Cupertino recently hosted ademonstration of Japanese Maple pruning conducted by AlanTagami, Landscape Consultant. Each participant in the well-attended class received an information packet filled withJapanese Maple fact sheets covering tips for successfulgrowing and pruning basics. Alan began the class byacknowledging the mystique associated with JapaneseMaple pruning methods that can lead novice pruners to take ahands off approach for fear of inflicting their inexperienceon an unsuspecting tree. While the aesthetic pruning of

Japanese Maples is unmistakably an art form, too often thisimpression prevents gardeners from learning by doing withtheir own trees. Alan stressed that Japanese Maples,universally admired for their delicate grace and beauty, arealso very hardy, forgiving trees much more durable than theirappearance suggests. For the novice pruner, this was areassuring statement.

The basic tools Alan recommended and used during hisdemonstration are most likely already in the gardeners toolcaddy: garden shears for cutting branches or smaller;loppers for medium branches over ; and a pruning saw forlarge branches.

While experts may disagree over the true aestheticpruning techniques particular to Japanese Maples, Alansuggested many pruning methods exist, each one particular tothe pruners individual preferences and the mental picture s/hecreates of the end result. Alans pruning demonstration usingseveral nursery maples in containers illustrated his particularstyle and how he visualized the future structure and shape ofthose trees. His years of experience and artistry shone as hemade quick, decisive cuts often accompanied by gasps fromthe audience and exclamations such as, Id be way too timid

to make that cut! A frequent question was, how did youknow you wanted to prune that branch? Alans two answerwere always visualize how you want it to look and create th

picture and experience.Alan did cover some basics to keep in mind when prunin

Japanese Maples. These essentials included:

Always use clean, sterilized, SHARP pruning tools.

Begin pruning after the young tree is established, abouttwo to three years after planting.

Prune and shape Japanese Maples each year limited buconstant light pruning can be done during any season. Adead, diseased, damaged, twiggy or crossing branches cbe removed at any time.

Prune larger branches in Jan. Feb. just as buds begin to

swell, but well before the sap starts to rise. Pruning cuts should be made above a promising bud or

side branch, or to a main branch or trunk. Medium or larbranch cuts should be made just above the branch collarpromote quick healing.

Thin the tree interior to display the graceful trunk andbranch structure.

To reduce tree size or to direct plant growth, prune backa branch that is heading in the desired direction.

The use of tree-wound paint on the cut surfaces is notrecommended.

Heavy pruning produces vigorous growth shoots that

emerge beneath the cut. These sprouts should be rubbedoff by hand, leaving only one or two buds pointing in thdesired direction.

A major reduction in size or radical pruning should bedone over the course of several years with continuedfollow-up pruning to maintain the tree shape.

Pruning techniques are essentially the same for bothcontainer-grown maples and maples in the ground. In bocases, visualization of the desired result is the keyregardless of the cultivar or growing situation.

Alan concluded his demonstration by reminding the

participants that pruning Japanese Maples is a learning procewhere learn as you go is the best method. Each year as thetree leafs out and grows, pruning mistakes will becomeevident, but the gardener will continue to learn more includihow to correct problems resulting from earlier inexperience.He assured us that the durable Japanese Maple would beforgiving.

Recommended Reading:American Horticultural Society Pruning & Training: A FullyIllustrated Plant-by Plant Manual. David Joyce andChristopher Brickell. DK, 1996.


9/12


A reference manual on pruning and training ornamental trees,fruit trees, shrubs, soft fruits, climbing plants, and roses.

Japanese Maples: Third Edition. J.D. Vertrees. Timber Press,2001.The undisputed reference book on Japanese Maples.

Maples for Gardens: A Color Encyclopedia. C.J. van Gelderenand D.M. van Gelderen. Timber Press, 1999.A magnificent photo gallery of the best maples for garden use.Orthos All About Pruning. Marilyn Rogers. Ortho, 1999.A pruning primer with instructions for 180 trees, shrubs, andvines.

Wonderful Websites:Mountain MaplesMountain Maples is a mail-order nursery, dedicated togrowing, selling and shipping beautiful Japanese Maples. TheMountain Maples Website features pruning how-to articles,tools, supplies, books, as well as a wealth of information aboutJapanese Maple cultivars for every growing situation. Anespecially helpful photo essay shows the pruning process step-by-step (see Pruning Japanese Maples Article and PhotoEssay).http://www.mountainmaples.com

Yamagamis NurseryConsult often for information on upcoming classes and events.http://www.yamagamisnursery.com/


10/12

Mark your calendar to relish the Smart Gardening Faire onJune 24, 2006.

When you receive this issue ofGardening on the Edge, theFaire Players (our planning committee) will be busily focusing

on the final details of preparation for Faire day, which growscloser by the minute.

The seeds that were planted have been bearing fruit andwere already seeing an excellent crop of speakers andexhibitors, musicians and foodies, generous sponsors andhard-working (and creative) volunteers.

We have a cornucopia of recent developments to share, buttheres too much to cram into this brief report. For the verylatest information on the Faires speakers, exhibitors andsponsors, visit smartgardening.org.

Still, we must mention that Monterey Bay MasterGardeners, in addition to their all-important role as sponsors

of this event and their multi-faceted contributions as plannersand organizers, are emerging as a key ingredient in the Faires

recipe for success. Our fellow MGs will host three veryinteresting exhibit booths: Garden Faire Arts and Crafts(Melita Israel & Cynthia Jordan), Garden Faire Bookshopp(Cynthia Jordan), and Garden Faire Plant Propagation (Rob

Sanders). Theres a busy team of cooks making each of thetreats a special reality, to be sure, and we just cant keep upwith the growing roster, so well honor all the participantslater.

The Faire Players have new members, too. Were verypleased to welcome Simon Stapleton (in the 2006 class ofMGs), who will supervise the set-up and strike of the FaireWe also are very pleased to report the Faires photographerDiane Norrby (also in the 2006 class). Were hoping thatschedules with allow Leora Worthington (Class of 03) toshare her photographic talents on that day (two sets of eyeshelp to find truth and beauty!). Were working on adding

video coverage in order to gather a few telling snippets fornext years publicity.

Were always open to new ideas and welcome Faire dayvolunteers. We have one very important position stillavailable for a creative and resourceful individual:Coordinator of Faire Signage. This person will take the leaidentifying all the signs that will be needed on the day of thFaire, producing the signs and putting them in place. This ikey function and work should begin soon, and we can helpyou, gentle reader, would like to join the Faire Players andtake on this task, please contact Sheryl or Tom at your earlconvenience.

Come to the Faire!


Als Corner: Garden Masonry Without Mortarby Al Derrick, MG

Masonry projects in the garden using the usual cinderblocks, mixing the mortar, and keeping the blocks plumb, is areal struggle with the job often ending up looking amateurish.Now, with the availability of interlocking concrete blockswhich need no mortar, we gardeners can build our own

projects and look professional. If we decide in a year or two tomake a change the blocks are as good as new and ready for thenext use.

Sure these blocks cost a little more, $1.19 each for the sizeused in this flower box. The cost for this enclosure three feetby three feet by two feet high amounted to about $75. Tenyears ago I made one of redwood salvaged from an oldbuilding; however, with ground contact, it has now rottedaway. In comparison, the concrete blocks will not need to bereplaced in ten years.

Using these blocks only requires that the first course onthe ground be level and the ground needs to be firmlycompacted, so as not to settle. When a partial block is needea skillsaw with a diamond or abrasive blade is all that isneeded. I bought a diamond blade twenty years ago when

laying concrete paving stones and it has outlasted manyabrasive blades. The shape of the blocks allows either straigruns or curves. A lip of about one inch on the bottom rear ofthe blocks causes the stack of blocks to move back into thesoil and lock together. Because my native soil is clayreinforced with rocks I was able to remove the rotted woodwithout disturbing the fuchsia other than pruning it back. Thbench is installed using plastic drain pipe set in concretewhich allows it to be lifted off for refinishing, or, as in thiscase, the rebuilding of the flower box. Screwed to the bottomof the bench is a plastic flange usually used for mounting atoilet to the floor.

Garden Faire Update: Countdown to the Faireby Tom Karwin, MG 99 and Sheryl McEwan, MG


11/12


Five gardening books published in 2005 have been awardethe American Horticultural Societys 2006 Book Award. Oneof these is California Native Plants for the Garden by CarolBornstein, David Fross and Bart OBrien.

The authors are three of the states most experienced nativeplant horticulturists. David Fross gave a presentation onCalifornia Native Plants at the UCSC Arboretum on March 20His slides were selected from those used in the book and histalk was entertaining and informative. He just publishedanother book, Ceanothus that was released this year in additioto this one, an inclusive book on California native plants.

DavidFross is the Development Director of the LeaningPine Arboretums California Garden, and has put into practicethe knowledge he shares with readers in this new book.Throughout the book there are photographs of the plants in the

Arboretumfeaturing plant groupings dictated by Californiasvarying regions.Dave believes his book introduces gardenerswho are unfamiliar with natives to these beautiful andfunctional plants. He focuses on habitat plantings.

One of the things I like most about this book, besides thephotographs of each plant, is the inclusion of information abouhow the plant grows in sun or shade (often with photos in bothconditions to show the difference), what it partners with, pestproblems and complete information about the plant family.

Preceding the Section of Plant Profiles are three chapterswith information about California natives in general and a

chapter on Designing a California Native Garden. This is aspecial skill of Davids as he has won numerous awards for hilandscapes designs, including his recent project for LosAngeles, designing the native plant landscape that is part of threvival of the Los AngelesRiver.

Following the A-Z plantprofile section, the bookdeals with annuals, bulbs,and recommended plantselections by habitat and

type. Here you will findlists of plants that makegood windbreaks, growunder oaks, etc. I couldntthink of anything that wasntcovered.

This is a comprehensivevolume that belongs on thebookshelf of all Californiagardeners. It is a complete reference as well as an inspiringguide to growing California native plants in your garden.

Book Reviewby Kathleen Sonntag, MG

Garden Masonry Without Mortar

Top: Half of the blocks installed

Center: Bench removed to show complete block

construction

Bottom: Blocks placed on bench to show in cross section

how they stack upon each other


12/12

C i h 2006 MBMG All i h d

G A R D E N I N G O N T H E E D G E Newsletter of the Monterey Bay Master Gardeners

For 12 issues, send $15 to:Master Gardeners Newsletter1432 Freedom Blvd.Watsonville, CA 95076http://montereybaymg/ucdavis.edu

Hotline: 831-763-8007Ad rates: $25 per month from gardening

oriented businesses.Address change: contact Robin Sanders at726-1942 or [email protected].

Editor: Joan McLeod MertzAssistant Editor:Design/Layout: Christina Kriedt and

Robin SandersCirculation: Crystal BertheauStaff:Bonnie Pond Paul McCollumAl Derrick Natalie ChamblissTom Karwin Mary KochChristina Kriedt Jan OlafssonKari Olsen Nancy RuizKathleen Sonntag Sharon TylerStuart Walzer Ellen Wright

Advanced Training, Volunteer Opportunities and Other Eventsby Sharon Ettinger, MG 00 & Sharon Tyler, MG 0

Sun., June 11, 9-4,Bamboo Workshop with Karl Bareis, UCSCArboretum, call 427-2998 for details.Sat., June 17, 1:00,Free Wormshop. Call 427-3452 for details.Mon. June 19, 7 pm, The Genus Trichocereus in Argentina,Guillermo Rivera, noted South American plantsman, will give a talkon these argentine cacti. Pot Luck Supper at 6 pm., UCSC

Arboretum, 427-2998, Free.Thurs., June 22, and July 27, 1:30 pm,Native Plant IDWorkshop, Learn to key out native plants using the Jepson Manual.Bring book if you have it, and 7x or 10x hand lens. No experiencenecessary, UCSC Arboretum, 427-2998, Free.Sat., June 24, 9-5, MBMG Smart Gardening Faire, ScottsValleys Skypark. Speakers include Renee Shepherd, AlrieMiddlebrook, Ellen Wright, Michele Swanson and Monique SmithLee, aka The Bat Lady. Smartgardening.org or 457-7272.Volunteers appreciated!Sat., July 15, 10-1, Growing and Using Medicinal Herbs from theGarden, Louise Cain Gatehouse, UCSC Farm. Learn about theabundance of herbs growing in local gardens. Darren Huckle, a

Western/Chinese herbalist and licensed acupuncturist, will teachyou about sources of medicinal plants, how to use garden herbs forhealth and wellness, and how to prepare planting beds and harvestherbs. $15/members; $20/non-members. Call 459-3240.July 15-30, Summer Permaculture Design Course, Mt. Madonna

School. Permaculture is an inspiring design methodology thatapplies common sense and ecological principles toward the creatiof human settlements and the restoration of habitat. It combines ththoughtful observation of natural patterns with the tools of modersociety to create abundant and regenerative systems. Permacultureis a way of thinking about and creating a positive future that is

rooted in the following ethics: Care for Earth, Care for People,Distribute the Surplus. For further info call 840-6045.Sat., July 22, 10-1, Gopher Control Workshop, Louise CainGatehouse, UCSC Farm.Thomas Wittman shares his expertise in controlling gophers andother vertebrate pests in your garden. Learn the latest techniques fprotecting your plants and lawn from damage, $15/members; $20non-members. Call 459-3240 for more information.Sun., July 23, 1:00,Free Wormshop. Call 427-3452 for details.

Other Garden Events

Sat. & Sun., June 24 & 25, 8th Annual Parade of Ponds,462-2852 or 800-353-4957 for ticket information,

www.pondsaway.com.Sat., June 24, 8th Annual Hidden Gardens Tour,Big Sur, 667-1530, www.bigsurarts.org. Reservations essential.Summer events at Bonfante Gardens:www.bonfantegardens.com.

gardening on the edge newsletter, june-july 2006 ~ monterey bay master gardeners

Documents