Planting Guide for

Trees, Shrubs, Vines, and Hardy Shrub Roses

Digging the hole

Planting trees and shrubs at the correct depth is critical to their success. Planting them too deep is the No. 1 reason that trees and shrubs die in landscapes.

Follow these simple steps to ensure the correct planting depth.

1. See diagram below). On balled and burlapped plants (B&B), you will need to

potted and B&B plants, gently push the soil away from the base of the trunk.

2. Determine the proper depth of the planting hole. On B&B plants measure from the bottom of the rootball to the point at which the trunk

measurement. When planting is complete,above the existing soil grade.

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Original soil level

Back�ll

2–3" mulch

Burlap / twine cut away

from root ball

Trunk �are

Top of ball slightly above existing soil grade

Rootball on top of undisturbed soil

Hole 2–3 times as wide as diameter of rootball

Our Plant Guarantee

We guarantee our plant stock to be true to name, and in healthy, vigorous condition, so that with proper planting and after care, plants

we ask that you call us for instruction.

Trees and shrubs are warrantied for two years from the date of purchase, perennials are warrantied for one year. Customers may extend these warranties by one year by becoming a Gardener’s Club member.

Gardeners’ Supply (GSC) will exchange warrantied plant material with the same variety and size indicated on your original receipt. In cases where GSC horticulturists determine your plant has failed due to poor site location and inappropriate conditions or the same size and variety is not available, we may, at our discretion extend store credit for the amount paid for the plant. In all cases we will be liable only for the price paid for the plant material. At no time will Gardener’s Supply be held responsible for a sum greater than the purchase price.

If GSC installed the plants as part of your original purchase, they will be replaced with the same variety and size indicated on your original receipt and installation and delivery charges will be waived.

Replacement plants do not carry GSC’s plant warranty. If your plant has failed and we replace it with another, we consider our

second plant failing in the same location is an indication of a larger problem beyond our control. We will gladly, at your request and for a reasonable fee, send a representative to your site to help diagnose the issue.

Customers must present a printed copy of their original receipt to

receipts, only for Gardener’s Club members who share their name and address information with GSC. At no time will GSC accept responsibility for the lack of both electronic and printed records.

The sales receipt and photo of the plant, cutting of a portion of the plant, or the plant itself (if small enough) should be present at time of credit. At our discretion GSC may require a site visit to determine the health of the plant, whether GSC’s planting requirements were followed and/or to evaluate the site.

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Our Plant Guarantee (continued)We do not warranty the following:

• Bargain bin or clearance plant material is never warrantied.

• Plant material purchased and installed after November 1 (most plants will thrive, however our winters are unpredictable and

risk. Ask us for details).

• Plant material not installed according to our planting instructions.

• Plant material that has been planted into another container and not in the ground.

•

• Any plants installed under an overhang.

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• Damage or mortality due to circumstances beyond our control, including watering, weather, machinery, animals, insects or neglect.

• Damage due to naturally occurring disease present in the environment (apple cedar rust, needlecast, etc.).

• Damage caused by improper transport of material (ie not covering a plant in the open bed of a vehicle, transport breakage, etc).

• Plants sited in low lying or pooling areas are not warrantied against water damage.

• Plants planted outside their recommended hardiness zone or not winter protected according to our instructions.

• Broad leaf evergreens including rhododendron, boxwood, mountain laurel, Japanese andromeda and all hollies including inkberry, unless planted on the northeast side of the house.

• All Chamaecyparis, upright junipers and arborvitae that are not winter protected with burlap. (See section in our guarantee on winter plant protection.)

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3. Dig the hole two to three times the diameter of the root ball or container, sloping the sides gently outward to the existing soil grade. (See diagram on previous page)

Backfill Trees and shrubs must grow and thrive in the native soil that surrounds their planting site. In most sites, we recommend backfilling the planting hole with a mix that’s 2 parts native soil and 1 part amended soil. Excessive amendments can discourage roots from growing out of the backfill mix into the native soil.

Here’s how to compose the amended soil• For loamy native soils, use two parts peat moss and one part

compost. Mix this with two parts of the native soil. • For very sandy or gravelly soil, make the same mix of two parts peat

moss and one part compost, but increase the ratio to a 50/50 mix of amended soil to native soil.

• For clay soils, the amended soil portion should be 100% compost, so your backfill mix will be 2 parts native soil and 1 part compost. Also, add Greensand, using the amount recommended on the package. This natural mineral helps loosen the clay soil.

• For all soil types, we recommend adding mycorrhizal fungi and bone meal to the backfill. Mycorrhizal fungi form associations with plant roots and help them extract and absorb minerals and water from the soil. Trees and shrubs with mycorrhizal enhanced root systems adapt better and are more tolerant of stressful environments. Bone meal provides essential minerals that promote sturdy root systems and stimulate plant growth.

Planting While moving your plant into the planting hole, disturb the rootball as little as possible. Lift B&B trees and shrubs by using the rope, burlap, or wire cage on the rootball. Lift potted plants by grasping the container. Do not lift plants by their trunks, stems or branches.

B&B trees and shrubs1. Place the tree in the center of the hole. If necessary , straighten or stabilize the tree by adjusting or filling beneath the root ball with the backfill mix.2. Cut away any twine or burlap from the base of the trunk and remove any burlap that is on the top of the rootball. Remove excess soil from the top of the rootball to expose the trunk flare, if needed.3. Once the tree is in place, use bolt cutters to remove as much of the wire basket as possible. Do not try to remove all of the wire basket. The plant will thrive even if there is some of the basket left in the hole.

Potted trees and shrubs1. Tip the container on its side and slide the plant from the container. Place the plant in the hole by lifting the root mass, not the plant itself. If the plant has become pot bound, it may be necessary to cut the container before the

plant can be removed.2. Do not allow the root system to dry out while planting.3. To encourage root growth, tease the outer roots from the soil. If the roots are tightly matted, use a knife to score the root mass in several places and gently loosen the root ball. This will not harm the plant, but will encourage new root growth.

Backfilling and watering the planting hole1. Take your backfill soil (native soil plus amendments) as described previously, and add it to your planting hole until it comes about halfway up the root ball of the new plant. Use your foot or hands to pack down the soil and eliminate air pockets. Continue adding backfill and packing it down until you’ve reached the top of the root ball.2. Once the backfilling is complete, construct a ridge of soil about 3–4” high around the outer edge of the planting hole. This saucer will help concentrate irrigation water over the roots. Bring a hose to the watering zone with the flow at a trickle. The goal is to ensure even watering so the soil is drenched and any large air pockets are eliminated. Let the water run for awhile, checking the soil with your finger to see when the soil is soaked. It may take 15–30 minutes to ensure that the plant is well-watered. 3. Make sure the trunk flare is completely exposed and the top of the root ball has not been covered with additional soil.

MulchingApply bark mulch to a depth of 2–3” and a width approximately two to three times the diameter of the root ball. Mulching helps conserve water and prevent weeds. Taper the mulch to the base of the tree, but do not allow it to touch the tree trunk.

Staking Staking at the time of planting is not always necessary. Consider the stability of the rootball, trunk size and strength, direction of prevailing winds, canopy size and density when determining whether or not to stake. If in doubt, ask a nursery professional. If staking is required, ask a nursery professional to recommend the right support and technique for your tree and situation.

Fertilizing We do not recommend fertilizing your newly planted trees and shrubs during their first year of growth. The backfill mixture contains sufficient nutrients for the first year.

Watering Plant survival is directly related to the care plants receive after they leave the nursery. One of their most basic requirements is correct moisture. The roots should never become completely dry and should not be waterlogged either. Container–grown plants have a tendency to dry out quickly and must be monitored daily. Only water when needed, however, and remember that a thorough soaking is preferable over several light

watering applications. In most cases this careful attention to watering is only necessary during the first growing season.

The best way to check soil moisture? Use your finger. Dig down 2–4” just outside the root mass of the plant and water only if the soil feels dry. Newly planted shrubs and trees should be checked and watered every other day for the first two weeks, taking into account any rain. This will ensure that the soil is soaked. After the first two weeks, limit watering to once a week if less than one inch of rain falls during the week.The following chart is a guideline for the amounts of water needed by newly planted trees and shrubs based upon plant size. Plant species have varying water requirements. Before watering according to the chart, check actual soil moisture and moisture requirements of your plants.Water measurements can be made using an old 1-gallon plastic milk container. When using a hose, turn on the water at a slow trickle and take note of the setting. Count the amount of time it takes to fill the 1-gallon container. Multiply that amount of time by the number of gallons you need for your plant. That total provides the amount of time you need to run the hose based on the following chart.

Plant Size Amount of water per application

Small shrubs (<3’) 4–5 gallonsLarge shrubs (>3’) 7–10 gallonsSmall trees (<2” caliper) 7–10 gallons Large trees (>2” caliper) 10–20 gallons

Winter Protection We strongly recommend planting broadleaf evergreens on the northeast side of your house to protect them from drying winter winds and winter sun. We also recommend protecting them during the winter months with Wilt Pruf and/or a burlap barrier. The plants that benefit from this special protection include rhododendron, boxwood, mountain laurel, Japanese andromeda, blue hollies. Arborvitae, hinoki false cypress and upright Junipers should also be winter protected for the first few years.

Ensure Your Success and our GuaranteeDon’t forget these “must haves”

o Peat Moss

o Compost

o Bone Meal

o Mycorrhizal Fungi

o Greensand (for clay soils)