GAIL FORD’S 2010 TOUR OF SPAIN AND PORTUGAL ITINERARY

The itinerary will be flexible to allow for weather, timing, and the interests and stamina of the group. ** indicates a world heritage city or site; B: Breakfast; L: lunch; D: Dinner; –: no main meal included. Day1. Thursday 9 September Arrive Madrid

On arrival in Madrid make your own way to the hotel in the centre of the city. No transfer is being arranged, as people will no doubt be coming in from many different locations at various times. Make sure you are at the hotel, however, in time for a welcome drink and dinner, starting at. 7.30pm. (D) Day 2. Friday 10 September Madrid The day will be spent in Madrid with a tour around the city in the morning, including the Royal Palace. We will have lunch at a local restaurant after which you have the rest of the day at the Prado Museum/Gallery. After a brief tour you can spend as much time as you wish there, as it does not close until 8.00 pm. (BL) Day 3. Saturday 11 September Madrid The morning is set aside for a visit to the Reina Sofia Gallery, where there is an excellent collection of modern Spanish art, including many Picassos, Dalís, and Miros. This is the permanent home of Picasso’s Guernica. The rest of the day you have to “do your own thing”: have a wander, go to something of special interest, or visit Madrid’s third great gallery, the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, an excellent collection of European art that is best to visit privately, as you will be familiar with most of the artists. (B -) Day 4. Sunday 12 September Toledo * We have a day tour to Toledo, about an hour’s drive away. Dating back to Roman times, this medieval walled city was also a major Muslim centre, and has steep, winding streets, plazas, and ancient churches. After visiting the Cathedral and seeing works by El Greco at the Vitorio Mach Musuem and Church of Santo Tome (home of his masterpiece, The Burial of the Count of Orgaz) you will have time to explore, or shop (this is the home of the famous Damascene work) before we return to Madrid in the evening. (BL) Day 5. Monday 13 September Segovia* – Avila* - Salamanca We leave Madrid and head west to El Escorial*. We will probably have a brief look at this huge mausoleum of a place but can not go inside as it is closed on Mondays (you have to strike this somewhere – and this was the least “loss”!) We then drive to Segovia, with its famous Roman aqueduct*, and tour its rather Disneyesque Alcazar. In the late afternoon we drive through to Salamanca, with a brief stop en route to look at the famous walls and towers* of Avila. After checking in at our hotel we will have dinner and visit the floodlit Baroque Plaza Mayor (reputedly the most beautiful in Spain) – a must! (BD) Day 6. Tuesday 14 September Salamanca* - Léon Salamanca is one of Europe’s great old University towns. The facade of the University, founded in 1254, is stunning, as is the Gothic Cathedral. As a contrast, we will visit Casa Lis, which has an excellent collection of Art Nouveu and an extraordinary historic doll collection. After a lunch break we drive to Leon to visit two outstanding monuments: the Real Basilica de San Isidoro monastery, which has some wonderful 12th century frescoes of everyday life, and the great Cathedral with its stunning stained glass windows. (BD)

Day 7. Wednesday 15 September Burgos - San Sebastian The main reason for visiting Burgos is to see its magnificent buttressed Cathedral* the second of northern Spain’s great cathedrals. After a stop in this pleasant city we will have a fairly spectacular drive as we leave the Meseta (the high, rather featureless plains of central Spain) and drop down to the coast to the elegant resort city of San Sebastian. We are staying less than a block from the famous La Concha beach, and will walk around to the Old Town for dinner in a local eatery. (BD) Day 8. Thursday 16 September Bilbao (Guggenheim) - Santillana del Mar Bilbao is a just a big industrial city, except for its star attraction - the Guggenheim Museum. We will allow about 3 hours here (though the time is very dependent on what is on exhibition at the time) before driving west through Cantabria to the lovely medieval village of Santillana del Mar, where we have an interesting walking tour. This is close to the Altamira caves *, with their renowned prehistoric cave paintings. We will visit the museum, with its excellent reproductions, as it is not permitted to enter the “genuine” caves”. (BD)

Day 9. Friday 17 September Picos de Europa – Oviedo – Santiago de Compostela This is largely a scenic day, and our longest haul of the trip (about 600 kms all up). Cross everything for good weather, as we start by driving from Panes to Cangas through the spectacular Picos de Europa with their towering peaks. We continue west driving through Asturias, possibly making a brief stop at Oviedo to see one of its Romanesque churches *, before driving on to Santiago de Compostela in Galicia. (BD) Day10. Saturday 18 September Santiago de Compostela * This famous pilgrimage city is at the end of the Pilgrims’ way along the Camino de Santiago*. Our half day morning tour includes the Cathedral and its Treasury, and the Gelmirez Palace (with, weather permitting, a climb over the roof – for those who are game!). The afternoon is free to explore some of the many other churches, galleries and museums, wander along the streets of the old town (replete with pilgrims) looking out for an interesting place for a meal, or just having an afternoon off and relaxing. (B-)

Day 11. Sunday 19 September O Grove – Valença do Minho - Guimarães * From Santiago we drive along the Rias Bayas (southern estuaries) to Cambados and the fishing town of O Grove, where we have a boat trip to look at the shellfish farming – and have a scrumptious sample. We then climb the steep pass into Portugal, stopping at the walled citadel of Valença do Minho before driving on to Guimarães. This city is the “cradle of Portugal” and the old town is full of history, with many medieval monuments. Our Pousada is in a beautiful historic convent overlooking the town. (BD) Day 12. Monday 20 September Porto - Coimbra A short drive takes us to Porto, where we will not go into the centre of the city (which has all sorts of perils for buses) but will visit a port bodega on the banks of the Douro River, with a good view across to the city – the best way to see it! Well “ported up” we then drive south to Coimbra. Started in 1537, Coimbra’s University is Portugal’s equivalent of Oxford and Salamanca. The University’s Sala de Capelos (Graduates’ Hall) and Library are magnificent, and the steep, student-filled town is very picturesque (BD)

Day 13. Tuesday 21 September Fatima – Batalha * – Alcobaça * – Óbidos - Lisbon We start the day with 3 religious centres, the first being the famous pilgrimage town of Fatima where there is a huge new Cathedral, an interesting contrast with all of the historic ones we see. We then go to two amazing Gothic Manueline Monasteries, Batalha* and Alcobaça*, with their arching interiors and beautiful cloisters. A short drive south brings us to the picturesque fortified whitewashed hilltop village of Óbidos, with its cobblestone streets and imposing castle. After a wander here we drive on to Lisbon (BD) Day 14. Wednesday 22 September Lisbon (Belém) On our first day in Lisbon we will spend the morning in the historic Belém, visiting sites related to the great explorers: the tower of Belém*, Jeronimos Monastery*, and the Maritime Museum. A special café here is the home of Portuguese tarts - which we will savour! The afternoon is set aside for the Gulbenkian Museum, an outstanding private gallery. It is best to visit not as a group (the entrance fee is small, and free if over 65), and you will be familiar with the artists. In the evening we go to a Fado show. (BD)

Day 15. Thursday 23 September Lisbon (Sintra * and Casçais) Our second day in Lisbon is a palace day. We start by climbing up to the Castle de San Jorge (mostly on foot!) for some excellent views over the city. After walking down through the Alfama we drive to the royal mountain royal retreat of Sintra*, 28 kms from Lisbon. After a tour of the Sintra Castle you will have about 4 hours to take the small bus up the ultra-steep slope to visit the Moorish Castle (where there are some spectacular walks) and/or the rather bizarre Pena Palace and gardens. This is also best done privately, to give you flexibility with how you want to spend your time. We leave Sintra in the late afternoon to drive to Cabo de Roca, the most westerly point in mainland Europe, and then along the Estorial Coast to the elegant town of Cascais, where we have a fish dinner before returning to Lisbon (BD) Day 16. Friday 24 September Cromelque de Alendes - Évora * – Marvão Leaving Lisbon we cross the spectacular bridge over the Tagus, and will detour in to the megalithic site of Cromelqe de Alendes before going on to Évora with its Roman ruins, Moorish walls and palaces from the 14th-16th C. We then drive to the Parque Naturale da Serra de São Mamede in the mountains bordering Spain, passing a number of castles. We may make a stop at the fortified hilltop village Castelo de Vide before climbing to the caste town of Marvão, perched high in the mountains, with views for miles. (BD) Day 17. Saturday 25 September Cáceras * – Mérida We re-enter Spain shortly after descending from Marvão, our first stop being at the walled medieval city of Cáceras. Its picturesque reddish towers, plazas, churches and mansions are so authentic that it is the site of many films. After a tour and lunch break we will drive on to Mérida, site of the most spectacular Roman ruins * in Spain. We visit these, and the Museum, before staying overnight at the Parador. (BD)

Day 18. Sunday 26 September Seville Driving to Seville, (a flat, fast run) we should arrive mid-morning, and will visit the Plaza d’Espagna. In the afternoon we have a tour of the spectacular Alcazar,* with its fabulous Moorish decoration and a lovely gardens, before negotiating our way to the hotel. In the evening we go to a Flamenco show. (BD) Day 19. Monday 27 September Seville This is a day to rest up – or do your own exploring – or to wander and just soak in the atmosphere. There could not be a lovelier city to do this, or a more wonderfully interesting hotel to just relax in. (B - ) Day 20. Tuesday 28 September Seville (am) - Jerez de la Frontera - Arcos de la Frontera The morning will be spent in Seville, primarily to visit the Cathedral *, with time to climb the Giralda if you wish. We will then drive south to Jerez de la Frontera to visit a sherry bodega (and do a bit of sampling!) before going up to another high vantage point in the old whitewashed town of Arcos de la Frontera with its cobbled streets, castles, and spectacular view over the plains below. (BD) Day 21. Wednesday 29 September Gibraltar – Ronda We will make our way to Gibraltar along the often spectacular coastal route, with its massive wind farms, but will only go in to Gibraltar if the chairlift is running – otherwise it is a waste of time (most people agree it is a dreadful place!). However, if we can go up the rock we will leave our coach, walk across “no-man’s land” and enter Britain. From the top of the rock you get not only a great view, but an appreciation of the strategic importance of Gibraltar. After re-entering Spain we have a very spectacular climb up to Ronda, where we will have a walking tour, including a visit to what is reputed as the oldest bull ring in Spain. (BD)

Day 22. Thursday 30 September Ronda (Grazalema and Zahara) Ronda is such a spectacular place that whenever I asked earlier groups where they would like extra time, most people said Ronda. There are some energetic walks into the ravine for those who wish, or some interesting places to browse. In the afternoon we may take a trip to two other small mountain towns, Grazelema and Zahara, if people are interested. Look out for an interesting place for dinner. (B-) Day 23. Friday 1 October Antequerra (El Torcal) – Granada Driving East, we go through the mountains to Antequerra, our main destination being El Torcal, on a steep mountain behind the city from which, on a clear day you can see to the Mediterranean. Weather permitting we will have time for a walk through the strange and dramatic rock formations in this national park, before we drive through to Granada. After checking in we will walk down through the Albayzin * to the city centre and visit the Capilla Real, where Ferdinand and Isabella are buried and see some of the city. (BD)

Day 24. Saturday 2 October Granada (Alhambra * and Generalife *) - Córdoba All morning is spent in the Alhambra and Generalife – no need for any background on this highlight! After a surfeit of wonders, in the afternoon we drive through to Córdoba, passing numerous olive groves. After checking in in Córdoba we will have time for some exploring before dinner at a local restaurant. (BD)

Day 25. Sunday 3 October Córdoba ** We will start by driving out to the active archaeological site at Medina Azahara, just outside the city, then return for tours of the Alcazar, with its beautiful gardens, and the overwhelming Mezquita *. The rest of the day is free to wander this jewel of a city with its winding white-walled streets and lovely patios. (B - )

Day 26. Monday 4 October Calatrava (Castillo) – Almagro - Consuegra – Madrid Today we drive back to our Madrid hotel. The first part of the trip will be though mountains, then we come out onto the Meseta. We will make a stop at the mountain-top castle ruins of Calatrava Castillo, at the interesting town of Almagro, and at Consuegra, to see the Don Quitoxe style windmills. (B D) Day 27. Tuesday 5 October Depart Madrid (if finishing the tour at this stage) …..OR ….. Those going on to Catalonia will be taken to the station; others can either stay on in Madrid or fly out. Optional Extension to Catalonia (6 additional days) In the past I have included Barcelona and a one day drive through Catalonia in the full 31 day tour. I have changed this for 2010 to allow for an optional 6 day extension to Catalonia, rather than including it as part of the main 27 day tour, making a total length of 33 days (including 3 full rest days). I have done this: 1. To allow a little more flexibility regarding the length of the tour. 2. Catalonia has far more to offer than you can see on a one day drive through. We still cover the “musts”

in Barcelona, which is a very special city, and you have the option to stay on at the end if you wish.

3. I have found an outstanding local guide who is a Dalí specialist, and I wanted to allow more time with him not only in the Dalí Theatre Museum in Fiegueras, but in some other places in Catalonia.

4. It is a pity not to have a bit of a “holiday” on the beautiful Costa Brava, a spectacular stretch of coast

between Barcelona and the French Border. There are many large tourist towns along this coast so the trick is to find a non-touristy one. I have discovered a lovely small town East of Girona called Calella de Palafrugell that is not accessible by public transport and does not have any tourist-style hotels, so is largely tourist-free. I also discovered a wonderful hotel there (see hotel details) which I am trying to convince to take us. It is just the right place for a bit of a rest, and a good base from which to visit interesting sights in the area.

Day 1 (Day 27 of Main tour). Tues 5 October Madrid - Barcelona – Costa Brava We go Preferente (First class) by the fast Ave train from Madrid to Barcelona. (At nearly 200E pp this is more expensive than a bus, for a group of any size, but it is a very long and not overly interesting drive, and the train only takes 3 hours). On arrival in Barcelona we will be picked up and driven north to our special R&R destination, hopefully at Calella de Palafrugell. (BD) Day 2. Wednesday 6 October Rest Day A day of rest – relax at the hotel, wander down to the village for a swim, or have a walk: there is a spectacular walkway along the coast taking you around the various headlands or to the next village (BD) Day 3. Thursday 7 October Empuries – Figueras - Cadaques We will have a day bus tour taking us first to the extensive Roman and Greek archaeological site at Empuries, We then go to the city of Figueras especially to see the Dalí Theatre Museum with a special guide who opens up a whole new understanding of this compex artist. After this we cross the spectacular mountain range to the coast to visit the beautiful seaside town of Cadaques, where Dalí did much of his painting, and may go on to see his home at Port Lligat before returning to our hotel (BD) Day 4. Friday day 8 October Girona - Montserrat – Barcelona We leave the coast and drive inland to the medieval village of Peratallada and a 12thcentury castle nearby, then on to Girona, which has some outstanding medieval buildings and streets, where we have a walking tour. We then drive to Montserrat, perched high on a steep mountain. It has a famous monastery and a spectacular landscape which you access by steep funicular. We then drive through to Barcelona. (BD) Day 5. Saturday 9 October Barcelona

We start the day with a walking tour of the Bari Gòtic (old town) and visit to the Cathedral. We then have a tour of the incredible modernista concert hall, the Palau de la Musica *, and visit the Picasso museum. After lunch near the harbour we will go up Montjuic and visit the Fundacio Joan Miro (B L) Day 6: Sunday 10 October Barcelona This is a full-on Gaudi day, visiting the Sagrada Familia*, Casa Mila*, Casa Batllo, Casa Museum Gaudi * and Park Guell*. There will be time to stroll Las Ramblas if we have not already done so. (B) Day 7 Monday 11 October The end! Depart or stay on for a day or so in Barcelona. No transfer will be arranged, as no doubt people will be going off in all directions. The airport bus leaves from close to the hotel. Gail Ford (August 2009)