g20 final exam review - uc santa barbara geographysweeney/g20/g20_final_exam_review.pdf ·...
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Geography of Surfing:Final Exam Review
Stuart H. SweeneyDepartment of GeographyUniversity of California, Santa Barbara
Winter 2007
Geography questions:
• Where is it?
• Why is it there?
• What is it?
• Are proximate things influencing it?
• How long will it be there?
• Is it impacting its environment or other things nearby?
• Fundamental Themes
A middle latitude cyclone
35o N, 175oW
dij
Relative location?, characteristics?, processes?
A point and place in timeWhat is he holding and what does it represent?
When and where is he?
What happened to objects of that type?
Pric
e (P
)
Quantity (Q)
D
S
Q*
P*
Production and consumption Economic organization of surfboard manufacturing
Petroleum?
Foam Blank(Polyurethane, Polystyrene)
Laminating “Glue”(Polyester Resin, Epoxy)
Laminating “Skin”(Fiberglass, Wood, Graphite)Silica
“Shaper”
“Glasser”
fins
artwork
Spatial organization of surfboard manufacturingPre-modern history: 1936 first commercial production of fiberglass, 1940 first commercial production of rigid polyurethane foam.
1960s
1970s
1980s
1990s
2000s
Redondo Beach
Noll
Noll/E.T.
Clark
Laguna Niguel
Walker
Wilmington
Weber
Walker
Retail &garage
2005Black Monday
Santa Cruz
FrenchCobra
Thailand
China75,000 Surftech Boards
Spatial Economics: Global, Regional, and Local
• Spatial economics / Cross-scale interactions
• Global- international trade
- offshore production / outsourcing
• Regional- interregional variation within country
- variation in what?
• Local- intra-urban variation
- retailing, noxious industries (zoning)
Geography of Surfing: Mission
• Are you excited about learning at UCSB?
• Do you know more about Geography, as a field, than you did in week 1?
• When you surf, plan a surf trip, decide where to paddle-out, choose your next surfboard….
will you do that differently because of this course?
UCSB Geography
• Nationally ranked #2 in most recent survey
• BA and BS degrees (MLPS)
• Major themes:
Earth System Science: bio-physical processes
Human-Environment Relations: perceive, modify, interact
Modeling, Measurement, and Computation: GIS, RS, in-situ measurement, spatial statistics.
• Formal emphases:� Geographic Information Science (GIScience)
� Population, Development, and the Environment (coming soon!)
Final Exam Structure
• 30% Cultural history and diffusion
• 30% Ocean waves and forecasting
• 40% Surf Industry and the environment
• Similar exam structure as midterms but longer:� True / False
� Multiple Choice
� Regional Geography / Maps
• Fundamental themes and concepts
Cultural history and diffusion
• Diffusion (review Gould reading)
• Cultural geography concepts (sociofact, mentafact…)
• Cultural history of surfing with emphasis on major players (emergence of Polynesia, London, Ford, Freeth, Kahanamoku, Blake)
• …from surfboard mfg (Blake, Simmons, Noll, Walker, Clark,…)
• Differences in cultural context of Hawaii, Australia, California.
Ocean waves and forecasting
• Scale-dependent processes
Time-Scales & Spatial-Scales
Series of conceptual models
• Solar Radiation (Heat) � Air Temp � Wind � Wave
• Air Temp / Circulation: Hadley-Ferrel model
• Wind: How to determine wind speed? (PGF, CF, SF…)
• Waves: Propogation, Dispersion, Refraction
Forecasting: Putting it all together. Reading / interpreting charts and graphs.
I. Global atmospheric circulation
• Global circulation
• Solar energy budget
• Four stage model leading to Hadley-Ferrel model1. landless stationary (convection, hemispheric flow)
2. 1+ rotating (Coriolis, 6 wind bands 0, 30, 60, 90)
3. 2+ seasons (23.5, amplifies temp diff)
4. 3+ land (specific heat capacity, further amplification)
II. Wind, Pressure, and Storm Depressions
• Wind speed= f(CF,PGF) if aloft
= f(CF,PGF,SF) if surface
• Rotation of winds near highs and lows, S vs N
• Aloft (geostrophic) versus surface
• Convergence and divergence zones (surface and aloft)
Formation of Depressions: Surface Winds
(Horizontal Pressure Variation, Friction) ���� Wind Speed
Formation of Depressions: Surface Winds
(Horizontal Pressure Variation, Friction) ���� Wind Speed
III. Waves
• Wave characteristics (T, f, L, H, H/L)
• Wave form versus particle (orbital until d<L/2)
• Single numbers versus distribution� H1/3, L, Dp
� Directional spectrum, period histogram
• Conceptual understanding of wave generation� displacing and restoring forces
� equilibrium state, fetch limited, duration limited
� equilibrium state � energy distribution
� linear growth, exponential growth, saturation
• Basic terminology
� T = period = time interval between two peaks passing a fixed point
� f = (1/T) = number of peaks passing a fixed point per second.
� L = wavelength
� H = wave height
Characterizing and describing waves
• Wind Waves� Wind Frictional Stress Energy
Characterizing and describing waves
Characterizing and describing waves
• Directional spectrum and wave field
Source: http://cdip.ucsd.edu
III. Waves
• Waves after they leave the storm area
• Wave speed, organization or energy, dissipation of energy
• Celerity of propagation, deep water c=1.56 T � Equations vary with depth (L/2, L/20)
� c=L/T, L=cT
• Organization: Radial dispersion � phase, group speed cg=c/2
� near versus far from storm
• Dissipation: Circumferential dispersion (30-45 degrees)
IV. Wave Climate and Forecasting
• Surfer questions:� When will waves arrive from a storm at a given location?
� How big will the waves be when they arrive?
� Where should I surf?
• Will the waves break at one of the local beaches/reefs?
• Alternative approaches to answering the questions:� Long time scale (long-distance trip planning): wave climate
� Near term (surf next week? tomorrow?): forecasting
- Experience / local knowledge
- On-line materials (Wavewatch III, surface analysis, CDIP)
- Forecasting hobbiest
Surf Industry and Environment
• Production / Consumption in space (recommend reading “Globalisation and development” Potter et al. in reader)
• History of surfboard construction
• changes in materials, mfg process, labor mix
• major innovations and their implications
• Economic / Spatial organization of production
• Environmental evaluation of alternative products / production regimes.
Economic organization of surfboard manufacturing
Petroleum?
Foam Blank(Polyurethane, Polystyrene)
Laminating “Glue”(Polyester Resin, Epoxy)
Laminating “Skin”(Fiberglass, Wood, Graphite)Silica
“Shaper”
“Glasser”
fins
artwork
Spatial organization of surfboard manufacturingPre-modern history: 1936 first commercial production of fiberglass, 1940 first commercial production of rigid polyurethane foam.
1960s
1970s
1980s
1990s
2000s
Redondo Beach
Noll
Noll/E.T.
Clark
Laguna Niguel
Walker
Wilmington
Weber
Walker
Retail &garage
2005Black Monday
Santa Cruz
FrenchCobra
Thailand
China75,000 Surftech Boards
Spatial organization of surfboard manufacturing
1960-1980sBlanks: Single technology, near monopoly, few production sites
Shaping: Surfer/Shaper pairing, Local market shapers (Bark), relatively easy market entry. Master-apprentice training.
Glassing: Under same roof? One glasser for several shapers? Artwork, design element.
1990-2000sBlanks: Multiple technology, multiple locations
Shaping: Difficult entry. Capital-intensive, large scale.
Glassing: Nuisance/hazardous zoning, concentration, vertical integration.
Environmental impacts: What’s in a surfboard?
• Toxic chemicals- Regulation / Mitigation
• Polyester resins-Federal hazardous air pollutant
-Respiratory, skin, and eye irritant
-Not classified human carcinogenicity
• Toluene Diisocyanate (polyurethane foam)- “Reasonably anticipated to be a human carcinogen”
- Spleen, liver, ovaries, pancreas, …
• Recycling??
Regional Geography / Maps
• Australia and the Pacific Islands (from part I)
• World storm regions (from part II)
• Central America and Caribbean (Colas: Intro, Costa Rica, El Salvador)
• East Asia (Colas: Intro, Bali, G-land, Mentawai Islands)
Thank You!