fundamentals of fashion. the fashion design segment o before manufacturing can occur, the design...
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Fundamentals of Fashion
The Fashion Design Segment
O Before Manufacturing can occur, the design process must occur.
O Fashions are designed and produced at various price levels.O It is important for designers to market their
product in the correct category.O Design process is based on needs of the
market combined with creative inspirationO Highly acclaimed designers are located in
many fashion centers throughout the world.
Determining a Target Audience
O Each Designer has to determine who they are targeting to be able to choose a correct price point and market to their customer.O Demographics- age, gender, incomeO Psychographics- attitudes, beliefsO Geographic- where tm livesO Behavioral- what benefit they look for
in clothing.
Target AudienceO Most designers design more than
one lineO Each line is targeted at different
peopleO Price separates the fashion industry
lines.
Vera WangO Vera Wang Lavender LineO Vera Wang Bridal LineO Simply Vera Line- Kohl’sO Vera Resort LineO Collaborations with
O Wedgewood- ChinaO Serta- Mattresses
$275
Vera Wang 2012 Resort Collection Works for Casual Bridesmaids Dresses
Price CategoriesO All fashion begins as designsO Design is created for specific price
range, design level, and target consumer.
O Price of garments depend O QualityO Labor costsO Complexity of style and constructionO Reputation of designer or manufacturer
Price CategoriesO These days designers may choose to
focus on one or more price category. O Designs may be similar but
construction and material used will be different.
O Typically the line are called different thingsO Armani- high endO Armani Exchange- less expensive
Designer- Haute Couture
O French for “Fine Tailoring” "high sewing" "high dressmaking" or "high fashion"O exclusive custom-fitted clothing. Haute
couture is fashion that is constructed by hand from start to finish, made from high quality, expensive, often unusual fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail and finished by the most experienced and capable seamstresses, often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques
O Design that predominated until the 1950’sO Made for the individual customer, look and
fit take priority over the cost of materials and the time it takes to make
O The most costly garments, thousands of dollars.
O High price guarantees you have a one of a kind outfit or gown that fits you perfectly and has been designed with you in mind.
O Example: Channel Couture
Bridge LineO a secondary line of merchandise created by a high-end fashion house or fashion
designer that retails at lower pricesO A bridge between better and designer.
O A cross between couture and mass marketO Not made for individual customers, but great care is taken in
the choice and cut of the fabric.O These clothes are made with high quality materials and mass
produced only in small quantities to guarantee exclusivity.O They are costly.O Bridge lines serve several purposes for designers. They can
substantially increase sales volumes as their products become affordable to a wider audience at the lower price point
O Examples:
Brand Bridge Line
Calvin Klein CK
Donna Karen DKNY
Armani Armani Exchange
BetterO Typically sells for less than $500.
O The fabrics and styling are also of better quality than lower-priced items. Sportswear, coordinates and dresses may all appear in better lines.
O High Quality, more reasonable price than Bridge.
O Designed by talented experts who are unnamed on the label.
O More accessible to consumer and retailers than high fashion designs.
O Sold in specialty stores and department stores.
O Example: Jones New York, Liz Claiborne.
Moderate- Mass MarketO This can be difficult to define; a lot of labels straddle this
category. O Clothes to cater to a wide range of customers, producing
ready-to-wear clothes in large quantities and standard sizes.
O Less costly materials and construction techniques, creatively used, produce affordable high street fashion.
O Standardized sizing is used, trims and notions are scaled down but still try to keep the look of Designer.
O Other names for mass market: ready-to-wear, off-the rackO Dillards is considered to be a moderate department store
although their men’s wear can hit contemporary and better price points.
O Examples: Old Navy, Gap, Dillards, H&M
BudgetO Intended for broad consumption, these are
often derivations of popular styles and staples. O Lowest price categoryO No original designing is done O Copying is done of other garmentsO Knock-offsO Employee design stylist to knock to create a
knock offO Forever 21, Target
O Sears sells budget priced products and Penney’s too.
OComplete crossword puzzle to review terms.
The Design Process“Getting them to Fashion
Week”Fashion week is a fashion industry event, lasting approximately one week, which allows fashion designers, brands or "houses" to display their latest collections in runway shows and buyers and the media to take a look at the latest trends.
Most importantly, these events let the industry know what's "in" and what's "out" for the season.
The most prominent fashion weeks are held in the four fashion capitals of the world: Milan, Paris, New York and London
SpecializingO A designer may choose to
specialize in a certain area of design:O Women’s wear
O Day wear, evening wear, lingerie, sports wear, knitwear
O Men’s WearO Day wear, evening wear, sports
wear, knit wearO Children’s wear
O Boy’s wear, girl’s wear, teenage clothes, knitwear
A Fashion YearO Two main seasons
O Spring/SummerO Autumn/Winter
O Both require a different fashion look and a new range of colors and fabric designs for the time of year.
The Plan...O Designers work a year in advance
O In the spring, the studio works for the spring/summer of the following year
O Once a collection is finished, on to the next!O Research
O Each collection is researched so that all the items in it complement each other, will be in style, and have the particular look for which the company is known for.
O Predicting TrendsO A designers most difficult task is forecasting what will
be in style for the coming years. To do this, they know the past trends and look at repeats. They also purchase HIGH priced trend magazines. Additionally they observe what succeeded with customers in the past.
The CollectionO Theme
O A designer selects a theme that represents their collection. It can be a period in history, a foreign place, a range of colors, a type of fabric…
O DesigningO After the groundwork is completed for the nature
of the collection, the designer must decide how many and what types of garments should be included in the collection.
O Usually, they have a three month period to design, produce and publicize the collection in time for their fashion show.
O Press and buyers get their first look at the collection at the show
The DesignO Steps
O Designers work differently to put the design ideas together: some sketch, drape fabric on a dress stand, or use patterns from previous seasons
O Create a paper patternO Make a muslin sampleO Try it on (a dress stand or live model)
adjustments are madeO When fit is right, a professional pattern cutter
makes an accurate patternO A sample item is made in the fashion fabric,
then produced in various colorsO Fashion show: reveals the finished designs in
their most attractive state
Name RecognitionO Designers work hard to create a
brand for themselvesO Must create a perceived difference
O In the mind of customer, item stands out from others, normally because of image or quality.
O Each designer strives to have his or her signature, initials, logo, or type of garment instantly recognized.
Lets see how you doO Can you recognize these brands.
BrandingO Easy to pronounce and free from
negative connotationsO Short and Easy to rememberO Describes the product features or
benefitsO Consistent with imageO Distinctive
Design CapitalsO Strong fashion economy
O 5 major cities are considered by most to be the centers of the fashion world.
O Which five cities do you think host fashion for the world?
Milan
Milan, ItalyO These fashions have a reputation
for casual elegance and luxurious fabrics.
O Many Italian couturiers, such as Valentino, are based in Rome.
O Fashion capital of Italy O many well-known designers are based
there and O exhibition center called the Diera di
Milano or the Milan Fair
Italian DesignersO Giorgio ArmaniO Alma CoutureO Filippo Alpi
FemmeO Maria Grazia
AmorettiO Roberta BadioO BailaO Maurizio
BaldassariO Renato BalestraO Federico BanoO BasileO BensussanO Laura BiagiottiO BlumarineO Chiara BoniO Mariella BuranoO Byblos
O CailandO CallaghanO Armando CaloO CapucineO Gianna CassoliO Emilio CavalliniO Ernestina CeriniO CompliceO Anna e Cristina
CostiO Raffaella CurielO Dadoscorza by
Edward De CarlisO Roberta De
CastelloO Dolce &
Gabbana
Elicolaj Ematite Erreuno Fendi Salvatore
Ferragamo Gianfranco Ferre Alberta Ferretti Fiore Floranna Gianluca Gabrielli M. Galante per
Circolare Raniero Gattinoni Genny Daniela Gerini
Gherardini Istante
Juditte Bill Kaiserman Krizia Andre Laug Paola Marzotto Max Mara Anna Mucci Gioia Nordi Tita Rossi Tivioli Mario Valentin Gianni Versace
Paris
Paris, FranceO Chic and stylishO Home of famous couture houses such as
Dior and ChanelO The houses stage exclusive fashion shows in their
own salons. Many other famous French designers show their work twice a year.
O One of the best known French designers and a pioneer of ready to wear is Yves Saint Laurent. He consistently turned out stylish, quality garments over many years.
O One of the innovators of French fashion is Jean Paul Gauliter. He designs unusual witty clothes which stand apart from the main thrust of French style. He designed for Madonna.
French DesignersO Jin AbeO BalenciagaO Dorothee BisO Cerruti FemmeO ChanelO ChloeO Enrico CoveriO Christian DiorO Louis FeraudO Jean-Paul
GaultierO Romeo GigliO GivenchyO Kenzo
Hiroko Koshino Christian Lacroix Karl Lagerfeld Guy Laroche Matsuda Issey Miyake Claude Montana Thierry Mugler Bernard Perris Nina Ricci Sonia Rykiel Yves Saint Laurent Jean-Louis Scherrer
Emanuel Ungaro Valentino Kansi Yamamoto Yohji Yamamoto
London
London, EnglandO Known for unorthodox clothes, with a
young market and popular appeal.O Vivienne Westwood is one of the
pioneers of street style, the name of daring youthful looks which London is known for.
O John Galliano, Richmond Cornejo and a design group called English Eccentrics also turn out fresh ideas consistently.
O Other well known names include Zandra Rhodes, Katharine Hamnett (known for slogan t-shirts) and Bruce Oldfield who designs glamorous evening wear.
London Designers
O BodymapO Joe Casely-HayfordO Caroline CharlesO Nick ColemanO Paul CostelloeO GhostO Pam HoggO Betty JacksonO Bruce OldfieldO Ednia RonayO Vivienne WestwoodO Workers for Freedom
New York
New York, New York, U.S.A.
Oa clean-cut casual style reflecting the sporty, health-conscious life styles.
O The fashion industry in New York is based around Seventh Avenue.
New York DesignersO Geoffrey BeeneO Bill BlassO Oscar De La RentaO Tom Ford (Gucci)O HalstonO Carolina HerreraO Norma KamaliO Donna KaranO Calvin KleinO Ralph LaurenO Mary McFaddenO Mary Ann RestivoO ScassiO Pauline Trigere
Tokyo
Tokyo, JapanO The look is lose and apparently unstructured. O complicated cutting techniquesO Colors are often subtle, and somber. O Fabrics are rich and textured.O Famous names in Japanese fashion include
Kenzo, known for layered looks and highly original knitwear.
O Miyake, considered a master of draping and cutting
O Rei Kawakubo who developed a completely new way of cutting. His work has been compared with the bias innovation of Vionnet in the 1930’s.
Tokyo DesignersO Jin AbeO Barbara BuiO Hiroko KoshinoO Junko KoshinoO Issey MiyakeO Hanae MoriO Yuki Torii InternationalO Kansai Yamamoto