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    December 2, 2011 10:00 pm

    FT Festive 50: Mains

    Recipes for Christmas main dishes, from turkey curry to roast loin ofpork

    ngela Hartnetts turkey curry

    Im not a big coconut or coriander fan, but this recipe uses both of these ingredients in a dish

    I enjoy eating. With turkey, they make a delicious, healthy curry. And if you want to make it

    super-slimming, you can remove the potatoes.

    Serves 4

    1 onion, chopped

    4 fresh birdseye chillies, deseeded and chopped

    1 tsp coriander seeds

    2 tsp tamarind paste

    1 tbsp caster sugar

    2 garlic cloves, bruised

    1 small knob of root ginger, peeled and chopped

    1 tbsp sunflower oil, for frying

    500g turkey breast, sliced

    3 sprigs of thyme, leaves only

    400ml coconut milk

    150ml chicken or turkey stock

    2 large waxy potatoes, peeled and diced

    250g fresh spinach, chopped

    http://www.ft.com/
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    1 bunch of fresh coriander, chopped

    50g whole peeled almonds

    Put the chopped onion, chillies, coriander seeds,

    tamarind, sugar, one clove of garlic and ginger into a

    blender or food processor and blitz until blended into a

    paste.

    In a large frying pan, heat the oil and add the turkey

    (in two batches if needed), the other garlic clove and

    thyme and saut for a few minutes to brown the

    turkey. Remove from the pan and discard the garlic. In

    the same pan, add the blended paste and lightly roast

    for a few minutes. Remove from the pan. Return the

    turkey, cover with the coconut milk and stock, then addthe potatoes.

    Leave for 20 minutes until the turkey has cooked and

    the sauce thickened. Finally, stir in the spinach,

    coriander and almonds, and allow to warm through.

    Remove from the heat and serve.

    Recipe from Great British Food Revival: The Revolution Continues published by

    Weidenfeld & Nicolson (20)

    . . .

    Raymond Blancs roast loin of pork stuffed with dried plums

    A classic Maman Blanc dish that I used to enjoy as a Sunday roast. Two ingredients that love

    each other, plum and pork, are a classic combination embraced by many cultures. The drying

    of the plums intensifies the flavour by removing excess moisture. Like all great homecooking, this recipe doesnt use stock. Ask your butcher to bone the loin, score the skin in a

    5mm lattice and chop the bones into small pieces.

    Serves 6-8

    8-10 Victoria plums, halved and stoned

    1.2kg pork loin

    Salt and pepper

    http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0297867644/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=finantimes-21&linkCode=as2&camp=1634&creative=6738&creativeASIN=0297867644
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    30ml rapeseed oil

    400g pork bones

    50ml vegetable oil

    1 large beef tomato, pricked with a fork all the way

    round

    4 garlic cloves, unpeeled

    2 sprigs of thyme

    250ml water

    100ml Madeira, boiled for 30 seconds (optional)

    To dry the plums, preheat the oven to 100C. Place

    the plum halves on a tray and put in the oven for two

    hours. This can be done two days in advance during which the plums can be kept in the

    fridge.

    Preheat the oven to 220C. Open up the pork loin and flatten it onto the table, fat-side

    down. Season and place three-quarters of the dried plums along the middle of the loin, chop

    the remaining plums and reserve for the sauce. Roll the loin up and secure both ends tightlywith skewers, tie with four turns of string. Remove the skewers.

    In a small heavy-duty roasting pan, on a medium heat, colour the pork bones and meat

    trimmings in the rapeseed oil for 7-10 minutes until lightly golden, then take off the heat.

    In a large non-stick frying pan, also on a medium heat, crisp the pork loin, skin-side down

    in the vegetable oil for 7-8 minutes, rolling the joint to ensure all the skin makes contact with

    the pan.

    Put the bones in a roasting tray and sit the pork on top. Add the tomato, garlic and thyme

    and roast in the oven for 30 minutes. Add the water and Madeira, if you have opted to use it,

    to create the jus. Turn down the oven to 180C, cover the tin loosely with foil and cook for a

    further 35 minutes. Once cooked, add 100ml of water to lengthen the jus if needed. Place the

    loin on a plate and allow to rest for 30 minutes.

    Tip the roasting tray slightly and spoon out half of the fat. Strain the remaining jus through

    a fine sieve into a medium casserole, heat and add the chopped plums. Taste to season, setaside and keep warm.

    Cut away the strings and carve into 8-10 slices. Pour juices released from the meat into the

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    sauce. Arrange the pork on a warm serving dish and pour on the juice and dried plums.

    Serve with summer vegetables and wild mushrooms as an alternative to a traditional roast.

    Recipe from Great British Food Revival: The Revolution Continues published by

    Weidenfeld & Nicolson (20)

    . . .

    Greg and Lucy Maloufs pork rib-eye with caraway, honey and lime

    There is something wonderfully impressive about pork rib-eye, which makes it a terrific

    option for a dinner party or celebration. Its flavour is good, for todays low-fat porkers, and

    you can cook it with or without its crackling. In this dish, the meat is rubbed with a spice mix

    and glazed during the cooking process, so ask your butcher to remove the crackling for you

    (you can always cook it separately), but to leave an even layer of fat. While youre at it, make

    sure you ask for a piece from a smallish animal, with six ribs attached, and neatly tied.

    Serves 6

    3 cloves garlic crushed with 1 heaped tsp sea salt

    1/2 tsp cracked black pepper

    1 tsp caraway seeds

    1.5kg pork rib-eye (you want 6 ribs)

    50ml olive oil

    1 litre water

    A few knobs of butter

    Roast vegetables and mashed potatoes to serve

    Glaze

    Zest and juice of 1 small lime

    3 tbsp honey

    Mix the garlic paste with the pepper and caraway seeds and use your hands to rub it all

    over the exposed fat and meat. Cover and leave it in a cool place for an hour or so to allow

    the flavours to permeate.

    Preheat the oven to 220C. Sit a roasting rack in a large roasting pan and put the pork on

    http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0297867644/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=finantimes-21&linkCode=as2&camp=1634&creative=6738&creativeASIN=0297867644
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    top. Wrap the sticking-up bones with foil to stop them charring in the heat. Pour the oil and

    water into the pan to create some steam and provide extra moisture during the cooking

    process.

    Put the pan into the oven and cook for 20 minutes, then lower the heat to 160C and cook

    for a further 1 hour 20 minutes. Check every 30 minutes or so and splash in more water if

    necessary.

    While the joint is cooking, make the glaze by heating the lime juice, zest and honey in a

    small pan, until it all melts together.

    About 5 minutes before the end of the cooking time, take the joint out of the oven and turn

    the heat back up to 220C. Brush the joint with the glaze and return it to the oven for the

    remaining five minutes or until it starts to caramelise and turn a lovely bubbly brown.

    To serve, cut into thick chops with a very sharp knife. Reduce the pan juices with a fewknobs of butter and drizzle over the meat. Serve with roasted vegetables and mashed

    potatoes.

    Extract from Malouf: New Middle Eastern by Greg and Lucy Malouf (Hardie Grant

    Books, 30)

    . . .

    Theo Randalls spatchcock pigeon roasted on bruschetta with cavolo nero,

    pancetta and porcini mushrooms

    Serves 4

    4 squab pigeon

    6 slices pancetta

    4 soughdough bread

    glass of marsala

    300g fresh porcini mushrooms

    2 heads of cavolo nero

    2 cloves of garlic

    Sprig thyme

    Olive oil

    http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/1742701450/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=finantimes-21&linkCode=as2&camp=1634&creative=6738&creativeASIN=1742701450A
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    lemon

    For the pigeon

    Cut down backbone and force both sides away from each other. Turn over, place on

    chopping board and push down on to breasts with the palm of your hand to flatten (the

    flatter it is, the more evenly the bird will cook).

    When you have boned the pigeons, marinate them with marsala wine, one thinly sliced

    clove of garlic and the thyme. Leave for one hour.

    Porcini mushrooms

    Clean the porcini mushrooms with a damp cloth, fry a sliced clove of garlic with olive oil,

    add the porcinis and cook for 3-4 minutes.

    Cooking the pigeon

    In a heavy-based frying pan heat a little olive oil and seal the skin on both sides for 1

    minute, add the bruschetta and pancetta and place in a hot oven (180C) for 6 minutes.

    Remove from oven and place the pigeon on the bruschetta, skin side up, and cook for a

    further 3 minutes.

    Cavolo nero

    Pull the leaves away from the stem, wash and blanch in salted boiling water, drain. Slice

    one clove of garlic, soften in olive oil. Roughly chop cavolo nero, add to garlic, cook gently for

    5 minutes.

    Place the bread slices on the bottom of the plate, add cooked cavolo nero, pigeon sliced in

    half and porcini mushrooms on top. Add a dash of marsala to the cooking juices of the pigeon,

    pour on top and serve.

    Theo Randall is head chef at the InterContinental, London,

    http://www.intercontinental.com

    . . .

    Nathan Outlaws Porthilly beef and oyster pie with Sharps Shellfish Stout

    Serves 4

    1kg trimmed flank or shin of beef, cut into 3cm cubes

    http://www.intercontinental.com/
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    3 tbsp plain flour

    1 medium onion, finely chopped

    1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed

    1 tsp tomato puree

    200ml Sharps Shellfish Stout

    1.5 litres hot beef stock

    1 tsp chopped thyme leaves

    1 bay leaf

    12 oysters, 8 shucked, 4 left in the half-shell

    Salt and pepper

    30g butter

    For the pastry

    225g self-raising flour, plus extra for dusting

    1 tsp salt

    85g shredded beef suet

    60g butter, chilled and cut into small pieces

    140ml water

    For the herb crust

    50g softened butter

    4 tbsp chopped parsley

    2 tbsp breadcrumbs

    Season half the plain flour with salt and pepper, and lightly flour the beef. Heat a little oil ina large heavy-based pan and fry the meat until browned. Remove the beef and set aside.

    Fry the onions and garlic in a clean pan with the butter until lightly coloured. Add the

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    remaining flour and tomato pure. Stir over a low heat for a minute. Slowly add Sharps

    Shellfish Stout, followed by the hot beef stock, stirring to avoid lumps forming. Add the beef,

    thyme and bay leaf. Bring back to a simmer, cover and gently simmer for 2 hours until the

    meat is tender. Leave to cool.

    To make the pastry: Mix the flour, salt, suet, and butter together in a large bowl. Mix in

    the water to form a smooth dough and knead for a minute.

    Spoon the cooled filling into 4 individual pie dishes, up to about 1cm from the rim. Roll the

    pastry out to a 7-8mm thickness. Cut out 4 discs to make pie lids (about 2cm larger all round

    the pie dish). Cut a small hole in the centre but leave the pastry circle in position. Brush the

    edges of the pastry with a little of the beaten egg and lay over the top of the pie dishes,

    pressing the pastry down to stick to the dishes. Allow to rest for 30 minutes.

    Brush the pies with beaten egg and bake in a preheated oven at 200C for 30 minutes until

    golden. Remove the pastry circles in the centre and pop in the shucked oysters. Return tothe oven for 10 minutes.

    For the herb crust: Mix the butter, parsley and breadcrumbs and spoon a small amount

    over the oyster in the half shell. Heat this under the grill for 2 minutes until the crust starts

    to colour.

    Place the grilled oyster on top of the pie and serve. Dont forget the glass of Shellfish Stout

    to drink alongside!

    athan Outlaw is chef at The St Enodoc Hotel, Rock, Cornwall, http://www.nathan-

    outlaw.com/

    . . .

    Tristan Welchs kipper and haddock fish pie

    Serves 4

    Pie base

    2 whole bone-in kippers

    200g haddock fillet

    300g washed baby spinach

    400ml whole milk

    20g butter

    http://www.nathan-outlaw.com/
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    20g plain flour

    Bay leaf

    Mash potato topping

    500g peeled potato

    3 egg yolks

    20g milk

    20g butter

    Pinch salt

    Put the potatoes on to boil in cold water and a pinch of salt.

    In the meantime make the base of the fish pie by taking a warm dish, placing the kippers

    in along with the haddock, bringing the milk and bay leaf to the boil and pouring over the

    fish. Cover and let cool.

    Once the poached fish has cooled pour off and strain the milk, flake the fish from the bone

    and set to one side.

    Make the sauce by melting the butter in a heavy-based sauce pan and mixing in the flour

    over a medium heat. Cook this out for a minute or so.

    Gradually mix in the milk and simmer for about 10 minutes.

    Cook the spinach with a little butter in a hot pan and, once wilted, dry on a paper towel and

    divide between four portion-size serving dishes.

    Next divide the flaked kipper and haddock between the dishes and pour over the sauce.

    Once the potatoes have cooked, mash them with a potato ricer, beat in the butter and then

    the milk.

    Season and fold in the egg yolks.

    Pipe the potato on top of the pie and bake in the oven for 20 minutes.

    Tristan Welch is chef-patron at Launceston Place, London, http://www.launcestonplace-

    restaurant.co.uk/

    . . .

    http://www.launcestonplace-restaurant.co.uk/
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    ntonio Carluccio and Gennaro Contaldos chicken with artichokes, onions,

    potatoes and rosemary

    This simple recipe is perfect for a Sunday family lunch. Once prepared and put together, it

    can be left to the perfect cook, which is the oven! The dish is very versatile the chicken can

    be substituted by rabbit (very good indeed), or by any other light meat (slivers of veal, for

    instance, or even lamb cutlets). Ensure, however, that you use the tender hearts of baby

    artichokes, which are available in spring and early summer, as the larger ones will be too

    tough.

    Serves 6

    About 8 small artichokes (you could use those

    preserved in water, not brine, which you find in jars),

    prepared and quartered

    1.8kg good-quality chicken, cut into chunks

    1 large white onion, chopped

    1kg new potatoes, scrubbed and halved or cut into

    chunks (depending on size)

    2 tsp rosemary needles, plus a few sprigs for garnish

    6 tbsp olive oil

    Salt and freshly ground black pepper

    Preheat the oven to 200C. Put the chicken pieces, artichokes, onion and potatoes into a

    large roasting dish. Sprinkle with the rosemary needles, drizzle with olive oil and season with

    salt and pepper. Mix well with your hands so that every piece of meat is coated well.

    Put into the preheated oven for 30 minutes. Take out, mix all the ingredients together well

    (using a spoon this time!) and return to the oven for another 30 minutes, after which the

    chicken should be cooked through and the potatoes should be tender.

    Serve immediately, finished with a few sprigs of rosemary and accompanied by a simple

    green salad.

    Two Greedy Italians by Antonio Carluccio and Gennaro Contaldo (Quadrille, 20)

    . . .

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    Heinz Becks venison in an almond crust with a pure of dates

    Serves 2

    400g loin of venison

    60g of almonds

    300g Jerusalem artichoke

    200ml veal stock

    100ml cream

    30g brown butter (unsalted butter, melted gently until it turns golden brown and then

    refrigerated)

    30ml white wine

    Olive oil

    200g dates

    8 Brussels sprouts

    Salt & pepper

    Butter

    Venison

    Cut the loin of venison in single portions of 120g each. Sear the meat in a pan and cook in

    the oven at 180C for 6 minutes. Let rest for 3 minutes.

    lmond crust

    Put the almonds in a mixer and reduce them to grains.

    Jerusalem artichoke pure

    Peel the Jerusalem artichoke, cut it into strips, place them into a pan with extra virgin

    olive oil and let them dry gently. Moisten with the veal stock and add the cream at the end.

    Cook and reduce almost completely. Blend with a mixer and add the brown butter.

    Dates pure

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    Peel the dates and remove the stones. Cook the dates in boiling water for 25 minutes, drain

    them and blend to make a cream.

    Brussels sprouts

    Prepare the Brussels sprouts by cutting the tops off and criss-crossing, then steam.

    Place two spoons of Jerusalem artichoke pure on the plate.

    Make dots with the pure of dates.

    Take the loin of venison and pass the portions through the ground almonds.

    Cut the meat, obtaining 3 medallions from each piece.

    Place the medallions next to the Jerusalem artichoke pure and dates.

    Serve with the Brussels sprouts.

    Heinz Beck is chef at Apsleys, A Heinz Beck restaurant, at the Lanesborough Hotel, London

    . . .

    Sriram Aylurs seafood moily

    Serves 2

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    4 scallops

    4 mussels

    100g fish

    100g peeled shrimps

    50g onions, sliced

    10g ginger, julienned

    4 slit green chillies

    15ml oil

    Salt, to taste

    3g turmeric powder

    400ml coconut cream

    5 chopped coriander leaves

    3 curry leaves

    1 tsp vinegar

    2 diced tomatoes

    Heat oil in the pan and add the onion, ginger and green chillies. Saut until the onions are

    translucent.

    Add the turmeric powder, seafood, salt and curry leaves. Saut for 5 minutes and add thediced tomatoes.

    Add the coconut cream and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the vinegar, garnish with chopped

    coriander leaves and serve hot with steamed rice or soup.

    Sriram Aylur is chef at The Quilon, London, http://www.quilon.co.uk

    . . .

    The Silver Spoons farfalle with smoked pancetta

    Preparation: 15 minutes

    http://www.quilon.co.uk/
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    Cooking: 35 minutes

    Serves 4

    1 tbsp olive oil

    100g smoked pancetta, diced

    1 fresh chilli, deseeded and chopped

    250g tomatoes, peeled and chopped

    200ml double cream

    350g farfalle

    25g parmesan cheese, freshly grated

    Salt

    Heat the olive oil in a pan, add the pancetta and chilli and cook over a medium heat for 5

    minutes until lightly browned. Add the tomatoes, season with salt and cook over a low heat

    for 25 minutes.

    Stir in the cream and cook over a very low heat for 5 minutes until thickened. Meanwhile,

    cook the farfalle in a large pan of salted, boiling water until al dente, then drain, tip into the

    sauce and cook, stirring constantly, for 30 seconds. Sprinkle with the Parmesan and serve.

    Extract from The Silver Spoon (Phaidon, 29.95)

    . . .

    nissa Helous lamb with prunes

    Sweet-savoury tagines are an essential part of the menu for Moroccan diffas (festive meals)

    and the lamb with prunes is the classic. There are two ways of making it, by incorporating a

    chopped onion into the sauce or by boiling the onion whole and discarding it before adding

    the prunes and honey. I prefer the latter better and instead of making it with pieces of lamb,

    I use a whole leg for a more festive presentation.

    Serves 6

    3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

    1 medium leg of lamb

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    1 medium onion peeled

    1 bunch fresh coriander (about 100g), tied

    1 cinnamon stick

    Good pinch saffron filaments

    tsp ground ginger

    tsp finely ground black pepper

    Sea salt

    400g dried prunes pitted

    4 tbsp good honey

    1 tbsp orange blossom water

    100g blanched almonds, toasted

    Put the olive oil, leg of lamb, peeled onion, coriander and cinnamon stick in a wide

    flameproof casserole. Add the saffron, ginger, pepper and a little sea salt. Add 1 litre of water

    and bring to a boil over a medium-high heat. Then cover and cook for 1 hour, or until themeat is very tender and the cooking broth has become very concentrated.

    Remove and discard the onion, cinnamon stick and coriander. Turn the meat into the sauce

    and add the prunes to the casserole. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, for a

    further 15 minutes. Stir occasionally and add a little water if you think the tagine is becoming

    too dry.

    Stir in the honey and simmer, still covered, for 10 more minutes. Add the orange blossom

    water and let the tagine bubble for a minute or two. The sauce should be thick and unctuous

    and the meat very tender.

    Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary . Remove the meat onto a serving dish, scatter

    the prunes all around and pour the sauce all over. Garnish with the toasted almonds and

    serve immediately, with good bread.

    . . .

    Lindsey Barehams tomato tarte tatin

    This tomato version of Tarte Tatin, the famous upside-down apple tart, is simple to make

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    and stunning to look at. It goes well with a salad of wild rocket, but to make more of a meal of

    it, serve draped with prosciutto and a scattering of black olives.

    Serves 4

    4 tbsp olive oil

    1 heaped tbsp caster sugar

    Salt and freshly ground black pepper

    1 tbsp balsamic vinegar

    750g medium tomatoes, cored, peeled and halved through the core

    150g puff pastry

    A little flour to serve

    25g freshly grated Parmesan

    About 10 basil leaves

    Pre-heat the oven to 200C.

    Lightly oil an 18cm flan tin or ovenproof frying-pan with a smear of the oil. Dissolve the

    sugar and a little salt and pepper in the vinegar and whisk in 3 tbsp of the oil. Place the

    tomato halves, rounded sides down, in the tin, nudging them up close together so they are

    slightly on their sides. Pour the dressing over the top.

    On a floured surface, roll the pastry quite thinly and lay over the top of the tin. Cut round

    the edge and lightly tuck it down the inside of the tin as if you were tucking in a bed (badly).

    Use the remaining olive oil to smear the top of the pastry. Place in the oven and cook for

    about 15 minutes until the pastry is puffed and scorched. Remove from the oven, run a knife

    round the inside edge of the pastry. Carefully drain most of the liquid into a small jug. Place a

    large plate over the top of the tart, invert it quickly and set it aside to cool slightly

    lukewarm is best for this. Give the dressing a quick whisk and pour it over the top of the

    tomatoes. Grate over the Parmesan, then snip over the basil and serve, sliced into 4 wedges.

    This is very good eaten with peas mixed with pesto that has been slackened with a little olive

    oil.

    Extract from The Big Red Book of Tomatoes by Lindsey Bareham (Grub Street, 12.99)

    . . .

    Lindsey Barehams golden tomato lasagne with basil and vine tomatoes

    http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/1908117125/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=finantimes-21&linkCode=as2&camp=1634&creative=6738&creativeASIN=1908117125
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    This is a lovely light summer lasagne made with several different-shaped and -sized

    tomatoes including two golden varieties, but regular red tomatoes would be good too. As is

    usual with baked lasagne, the dish is finished with a topping of sauce but here its scattered

    with tiny golden tomatoes, which will scorch, blister and taste divine. Just before serving, the

    surface is scattered with basil leaves, which immediately release their heady aroma. This is a

    dish to make and eat: if left around, the tomatoes will weep and make the sauce watery .

    Serves 4

    1 red pepper

    30g butter, plus a little extra

    1 heaped tbsp flour

    1 tbsp Dijon mustard

    600 ml milk

    Salt and freshly ground black pepper

    2 egg yolks

    1 tsp olive oil

    250g yellow cherry tomatoes, stalks removed

    8 orange-yellow vine tomatoes, cored, peeled and sliced thickly

    3 large beef tomatoes, cored, peeled and sliced thickly

    8 sheets fresh lasagne

    1 basil plant, leaves only, 6 reserved for garnish

    Pre-heat the oven to 200C.

    Turn the grill to high, place the pepper on a baking tray and grill, turning until the skin

    blackens all over. Transfer to a plate, cover with clingfilm and leave for 20 minutes before

    removing the skin. Quarter the pepper from base to stalk, opening it like a flower. Remove

    each segment, trimming away seeds and membrane. Cut into strips.

    Make the bchamel by melting the butter, stirring in the flour, then mustard,

    incorporating the milk, whisking as it comes to the boil to avoid lumps. Establish a simmer,

    season generously with salt and pepper and cook for 5 minutes. Mix a little of the sauce into

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    the egg yolks, stir it back into the pan and cook without boiling for a couple of minutes.

    Place the oil in a bowl, tip in the cherry tomatoes, and roll in the oil.

    Butter a 20 cm x 25 cm earthenware or ceramic gratin dish and smear with a couple of

    tablespoons of bchamel. Cover with sliced tomatoes and red pepper, tear over some basil,

    season, spoon over more bchamel then lay on 2 sheets of lasagne. Cover with bchamel,

    tomatoes, red pepper, basil, bchamel, lasagne and tomatoes, ending with enough bchamel

    to cloak the surface. Plant the cherry tomatoes over the top and bake for 20-30 minutes

    until they burst and the edges of the lasagne are turning brown. Scatter on the reserved basil

    and eat.

    Extract from The Big Red Book of Tomatoes by Lindsey Bareham (Grub Street, 12.99)

    . . .

    Fuchsia Dunlops red-braised beef with white radish

    One of my all-time favourite Sichuanese stews, this heartwarming recipe demonstrates the

    perfect sympathy between beef and the delicate cry stalline juiciness of Asian white radish.

    This particular version comes from the mountains of Wolong in Western Sichuan, one of the

    homes of the panda, and one of the areas devastated by the 2008 Sichuan earthquake. It is

    particularly delicious if the beef is cooked the day before you wish to eat it, and the radish

    added shortly before serving.

    Ingredients

    600g beef shin

    3 tbsp Sichuan chilli bean paste

    5 thickish slices ginger, skin on

    Two spring onion whites, crushed slightly

    One star anise

    One third of a cinnamon stick or a piece of cassia bark

    4 cardamom pods (optional)

    2 tbsp Shaoxing wine

    1 tsp dark soy sauce

    300g Asian white radish (a.k.a. daikon or mooli)

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    A handful of coriander to serve

    4 tbsp cooking oil

    Cut the beef evenly into bite-sized chunks. Bring the kettle to the boil with at least a litre of

    water. If using cardamom, smack the the pods with the side of a cleaver or a rolling pin to

    open them up slightly.

    Add 2 tbsp oil to a seasoned wok over a high flame, swirl it around, and then fry the beef in

    a couple of batches until lightly browned. Remove the beef from the wok with a slotted spoon

    and set aside.

    Return the wok to a medium heat with the other 2 tbsp oil. Add the chilli bean paste and

    stir-fry until it smells delicious and the oil is a little red. Then add the ginger, spring onion.

    Star anise, cinnamon or cassia and cardamom (if using) and stir-fry until you can smell theirfragrances. Then add about a litre of hot water from the kettle, and the beef. Turn into a

    saucepan or a clay pot, bring to the boil, skim away any scum that rises to the surface, and

    then add the Shaoxing wine, and dark soy sauce. Return to the boil, and then simmer over a

    very low heat for at least two hours. This step can be done in advance, or a day or two before

    you wish to serve the stew.

    When the beef is approaching readiness, cut the radish into chunks of a similar size to the

    pieces of meat and then boil them until tender. Add them to the beef stew and simmer for a

    few minutes to allow them to absorb the flavours of the sauce. Serve with a garnish of

    chopped coriander.

    Fuchsia Dunlop is author of Sharks Fin and Sichuan Pepper: A Sweet-Sour Memoir of

    Eating in China (Ebury)

    . . .

    nna Hansens slow-roast pork belly

    Serves 6

    2.5kg piece of pork belly

    1 tbsp smoked paprika (or ordinary paprika)

    4 star anise, crushed

    2 tbsp fennel seeds, crushed

    3 bay leaves

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    4 medium potatoes, cut in half lengthways

    Using a very sharp knife, score the skin of the pork belly as finely as you can, being careful

    not to cut into the flesh too much. You just want to open the surface of the skin, and the

    closer the scoring, the better the crackling will be - you could ask your butcher to do this.

    If you dont have time to brine the belly, simply grind the spices and bay leaves in a coffee

    grinder of spice mill and add 3 tablespoons of slat. Mix together and then run the mixture

    over the belly. Marinate for 12 hours and roast.

    To roast, places the potatoes in a roasting tin, rest the belly on top, skin-side up, pour in

    200ml of water and then place in a oven preheated to 140C. Roast for about 1 -2 hours.

    The timing will depend on the thickness of the belly but it will take at least this long. You will

    know if is ready when a fork pushed into the flesh comes away easily. When the pork is done,

    crank up your oven to 200C and cook for an additional 8-10 minutes. This should make the

    crackling bubble up and go crisp. Leave to rest for 15 minutes, then carve and serve withpotatoes.

    nna Hansen is chef at www.themodernpantry.co.uk in Clerkenwell. The Modern Pantry

    Cookbook is published by Ebury

    . . .

    Simon Schamas spicy turkey hash

    600g cooked, shredded turkey (dark and light meat)

    200g boiled potatoes

    200g onion, finely chopped

    2 red sweet peppers, diced

    1 green pepper, diced

    2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped

    1 long fresh red hot chilli, if available (minced dried chillies especially little red ones minus

    savage seeds would do fine, or even good quality chilli powder 2 tbsp)

    1-1/2 tbsp paprika (ideally Spanish smoked)

    2 tbsp good curry powder (or made from dry-pan-roasted 1 tbsp cumin, 1 tbsp turmeric, 1/2

    tbsp coriander seeds, ground after the roasting)

    150ml single cream

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    3 medium eggs, lightly beaten

    2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce

    50g grated cheese and a sprinkling for the topping before setting under the grill

    Toast the chilli pepper for about two minutes in a dry frying pan on a medium-high heat.

    Do not allow to burn and be careful of any chilli smoke getting in your eyes. Then soak in a

    bowl of warm water for 15 minutes; scrape away any seeds; shred and dice and set aside.

    In a large skillet (preferably cast-iron), gently fry the onion, garlic, red and green peppers

    on a medium-low heat until softened, for about 10 minutes.

    In a large mixing bowl, blend together the cooked turkey, boiled potatoes (mashed roughly

    in your hands), paprika, curry blend, beaten eggs, Worcestershire sauce and cream. Fold inthe chilli and sauted vegetables, and blend well. Add salt to taste you wont need any

    pepper.

    Allow the turkey mix to marry up in or out of the fridge for at least two hours; the longer

    the better.

    In the cast-iron skillet, bring the remaining oil to a medium-high heat and spoon in the

    turkey mix; fold half the cheese into the mix in the pan. Cook for as long as it takes for the

    mix to form a crust on the bottom. Do not go for a smoke or leave to watch EastEnders.Stand there with your wooden spoon, giving the mix a stir now and then. As the crust forms

    you want to turn it into the body of the hash so theres a nice mix of crispy and soft. This

    should take 15, possibly 20, minutes.

    Heat up grill and when youre happy with the crispy-soft blend, dot the surface with the

    remaining cheese and stick the iron pan under the grill. Leave the oven door open so that

    you dont accidentally let the hash blacken or scorch but just go sensationally golden brown.

    Shout ay ay caramba!, pour yourself another drink and serve the hot hash to the

    drooling troops.

    Simon Schama is a contributing editor to the FT and writes about food for GQ magazine

    . . .

    Rowley Leighs cabbage cake with mozzarella and chestnuts

    The cake needs no binding to hold together, just as long as the cabbage is squeezed dry and

    rested for at least five minutes after it is taken out of the oven.

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    1 large Savoy cabbage

    250g mozzarella cheese

    100g peeled chestnuts

    50g unsalted butter

    2 shallots

    1 clove garlic

    250g peeled and chopped

    Tinned plum tomatoes

    1 bay leaf

    3 sprigs of thyme

    Remove the outer leaves from the cabbage and wash them well in cold water. Drop these

    leaves into a large pot of boiling water and simmer gently for two minutes. Lift out the leaves

    carefully and refresh them in a bucket of cold water to fix the colour. Trim any protruding

    central stalks flat with the leaves and dry the leaves on kitchen paper. Cut the cabbage

    hearts in four and wash them carefully before cooking in the same water for three to fourminutes. The cabbage should be tender but the stalks still hard. Drain the hearts and refresh

    them in cold water. Cut away the stalks, discarding them, and gently squeeze the cabbage

    dry.

    Take a round, flat-bottomed and ovenproof dish about 20cm in diameter and grease it well

    with butter. Put the most handsome leaf on the bottom. It should cover it. Overlapping

    bountifully, line the sides with the rest of the leaves so that they overhang the sides of the

    dish. Place a layer of the separated cabbage hearts on top, season well and dot with butter.

    Cut the mozzarella into 1cm slices and season with salt and pepper. Lay these on top of the

    cabbage and distribute half the chestnuts on top. Fill the dish with successive layers of

    cabbage, cheese, chestnuts, cabbage, cheese, chestnuts and finally cabbage and push well

    down into the mould to compact the cake and remove air pockets. Bring over the

    overhanging leaves to cover, dot with butter and place a spare leaf on top to protect the rest

    (you can discard it later). Bake the cake in a moderately hot oven (180C) for 30 minutes.

    Peel and chop the shallots and garlic very finely. Stew them gently in a tablespoon of olive

    oil for five minutes before adding the tomatoes. Add the bay leaf and thyme, a teaspoon ofsugar, a good pinch of salt and some milled black pepper and simmer very gently for 10

    minutes. Remove the cabbage cake from the oven and let the cake stand for three to four

    minutes before inverting a plate over the top of the dish and then turning the cake out on to

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    the plate. Serve with the tomato sauce alongside and with a little good-quality olive oil.

    Rowley Leigh is the chef at Le Caf Anglais. More recipes at www.ft.com/leigh

    . . .

    Giorgio Locatellis meatballs cooked with lemon leaves

    Serves 4

    300g pork mince

    1 onion, finely chopped

    100g pecorino cheese, grated

    50g breadcrumbs

    Grated zest of 1 lemon

    1 tbsp parsley and garlic

    A pinch of dried oregano

    Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

    2 eggs, beaten

    1 tbsp olive oil

    24 lemon leaves or fresh bay leaves, washed and dried

    Preheat the oven to 180C.

    Mix the prok mince with the onion, cheese, breadcrumbs, lemon zest, the parsley and

    garlic and the oregano. Season, and mix in the beaten eggs. With your hands, divide the

    mixture and form into balls (about the size of a golfball), then flatten them slightly.

    Grease a baking tray with a little olive oil. Lay the meatballs in lines on the tray, with a

    lemon leaf or bay leaf in between each one. Drizzle with a little more olive oil and bake for

    about 10 to 15 minutes until cooked through.

    Extract from Made in Sicily by Giorgio Locatelli (Fourth Estate, 30)

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