from puppy to - yellowpages.com · 2019-01-23 · when you take them out you are showing them the...
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From puppy to pooch
A guide for new puppy parents.
Before you buy...
Spend some time considering your family and your home. A Great Dane is probably not the ideal
dog for a town house or unit and a Sharpei is probably not a great choice for a family with young
children.
Some important things to consider in this regard are;
Size
Temperament
Activity level
Other pets
Also consider your new pets coat and the demands of having a long or thick coated dog. A Maltese
Shihtzu is not a good choice for a farm dog where grass seeds are likely to be a major concern and a
Lhasa Apso or Poodle will need a lot of grooming.
If you need some help with this decision please feel free to give us a call. Also, it is worth discussing
the breed with the various breed associations. If you would be happy with a mixed breed dog
consider adopting one from a welfare organisation and giving a dog a second chance at life.
If you are looking for a breeder of pure bred dogs try to;
1. Ask for recommendations from the breed association
2. Ask if the dogs have been vet checked, micro chipped and vaccinated
3. Ask about the health of the parents of your new pet. Have they had any testing done to
check for inheritable diseases?
Another option is to get your new dog DNA tested after you get it. This can tell you, for mixed
breeds, what the parents and grandparents were and for all dogs what the likelihood is of them
getting some common problems that are inherited through their breeding, allowing you to plan for
the future.
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Welcoming you new fur baby home;
How exciting, having a new little bundle of fluff to play with… Even so it is important to remember
that we get most puppies when they are still very young. Often the day you bring them home is the
first time they have ever left their mother, siblings and birthplace. This means they have a lot to
adjust to! They also need a lot of sleep!
Before you bring your pup home it is a good idea to get everything ready; from food and water to a
place to sleep and something that they are allowed to chew. Having a few toys to encourage pups
to play with will help build good behaviours and allow you to teach them the right things to chew;
not your shoes, the couch and the cat!
Be PATIENT. You are trying to train a baby – they do need to be told things more than once and
being consistent is important. This applies to all members of the family so it may be a good idea to
have a set of rules that everyone follows. It is not a good idea to teach a pup that it is allowed on
the couch only when Mum’s not home; imagine how confused the little thing will be when it gets
told off some of the time and encouraged the rest of the time.
There is a FANTASTIC book called ‘The Dog Listener’ that I would highly recommend anyone getting a
new puppy reads. Even if you have always had dogs it can be useful to help you get on top of some
bad behaviours, like inappropriate barking and jumping, BEFORE they become a problem.
In Australian shelters more dogs are put to sleep because of behavioural problems than any other
reason. What’s more terrible is that in almost all cases these are PREVENTABLE with a little patience
and training while they are still pups.
So where to start?
When you bring your new pup home give it some time to explore. Don’t force the matter – they will
look around when they are ready. Show them where their bed, food and water are and where they
are expected to go to the toilet. Let them have some time to themselves – they need to adjust! This
is particularly important where children are concerned. With young children I recommend setting a
timer for an hour a few times a day; encourage your kids to let the pup do its own thing until the
timer goes off – this will allowing the pup to get some sleep!
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Crate training
This is entirely optional but can be very useful, especially for teaching dogs that they can be ok on
their own and preventing mishaps when they are unattended.
The crate needs to be large enough to contain somewhere to sleep and a water source. If being left
for long periods then somewhere to toilet is also important however this usually is not necessary for
overnight.
The crate should be a happy place, with a comfy bed and perhaps a toy to occupy your pet. It is not
about punishment – more like a puppy bedroom! It means you know your pet is safe and can also
help when adjusting to multiple pet households – allowing both animals to be in the same room but
separate also.
If not crate training it is important to remember that for a little pup a house is a big place with lots of
areas to cause trouble or forget the fastest way out when they need to pee urgently. It is wise to
mostly keep new pups confined to one room most of the time with easy access to their toileting
area.
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Toilet training
Patience is the key – think of potty training a toddler. You need to be positive and encourage the
right behaviour. Telling your pup of for the wrong behaviour is less productive and can lead to dogs
being secretive so they don’t get caught. In my opinion it is far easier to clean an accident in the
middle of the room than one behind the couch!
I generally don’t recommend puppy pee mats as these can train puppies to go on other similar
objects; bath mats, door mats etc. However if dogs are to be left inside alone for long periods this is
far better that teaching them to go on the floor!
When crate training it is particularly important to take your dog outside immediately in the morning
and encourage it to go to the toilet – try to use the same phrase all the time. You will find toilet
training much easier this way as dogs will generally ty to hold on while confined in a small space.
When you take them out you are showing them the right thing to do so ask them to ‘be quick’ (or
your own command) and then reward them. It is important to stand outside with them for a few
minutes before giving up as they may take a while to sniff around. Do not play or cuddle them in this
time as this may distract them from their mission.
It is then important to take them out at regular intervals to allow them to develop a good toileting
habit. Generally every hour, when they wake up or after they eat or drink. Over time you may
decrease this. Be aware that pacing, scratching at the door or sniffing around may be signs that your
dog needs to ‘go’.
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Food
Puppies should be fed on a good quality puppy food. For large breed dogs like Golden Retrievers,
labs, German Shepherds etc. it is important to feed a large breed puppy food and stick to the packet
guidelines for how much to feed. Choosing the wrong food may result in poor bone growth and
lifelong problems.
With so many options on the market today it can be hard to navigate through the maze of dog foods
in a pet shop. Here are some things that you need to consider;
Puppies grow fast! It is important that they do this the right way otherwise the result can be very
costly in the future. This is especially true for large breeds and breeds like Labradors that have a high
rate of hip and elbow problems. This is probably the most crucial time in dog’s life to select the right
food.
There is a big difference between the premium dog foods and the rest. Generally premium foods
are only stocked by pet shops and stock feed stores etc. While not being able to grab a packet of the
shelf at the local supermarket is a pain the effort is well worth it. Generally speaking premium foods
create a healthier puppy that grows better, has a shiny healthy coat and produces smaller, firmer
and less odorous poo. This is because:
Fillers. These are things that bulk out the food, the end result being your dog needs to eat
more for the same amount of nutrition. This means that you need to buy more food so
although the packet may be cheaper you will go through it much faster.
Key nutrients. Many foods supply basic nutrition, enough to keep them going but not for
optimal development. This is often why some dogs have a very dull dry coat. Higher levels
of nutrients such as antioxidants make a big difference.
Dental care. Many of the ‘junk’ foods your dog loves are very soft of crumbly. This does
nothing to help keep their teeth scrubbed clean. A good dry food should hold together while
your dog’s tooth bites into it, right to the base. Many cheaper alternatives crumble under
hardly any pressure, cleaning the tip of the tooth but not much else. This is why the size of
the kibble is also important. Ideally the kibble should be a little larger than the largest tooth
in your dog’s mouth; otherwise it’s not going to get a thorough clean. Consider the cost of
future anaesthetics and dental procedures when deciding to use a supermarket food!
Better cuts of meat. When a carcass is disassembled for meat many cheaper foods use the
parts that are left over and unsuitable for human consumption. This includes all the ugly bits
we would rather not think about! (Often this is termed ‘bi‐products). In contrast when
reading the packet of premium foods look for statements like ‘High quality lamb protein
with natural ingredients’ (Hills), or ‘highest quality Australian chicken’ (Advance).
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The food you choose for your puppy should ideally be a premium food that is suitable to their breed
and stage of development. This means a food that specifies the size of the dog. This is not only for
kibble size but it is important for growth. It is vital that large breed dogs are fed a large breed puppy
food. If fed one designed for small breeds they may grow too quickly, without laying down bones
properly. This results in life long problems which may be severe.
We often recommend the Advance pet food range because this is what we feed our own pets. For
us the decision was made due to a combination of quality and price. There are other really good
foods out there; like Royal Canin and Hills, however these are more expensive generally speaking. If
going with these foods please see the back of the product packaging for how much to feed. For
Advance some information is given below (current as of 23/10/14)
For toy breeds and dogs with an adult weight of <5kg consider the small breed puppy food. Although
this mood can be re‐hydrated we only recommend this when dogs first start eating, as soaking the
food reduces the amount of teeth cleaning that occurs during chewing. This food should be fed for
the first 9‐12 months of life
Toy Breeds; Feeding Guide
Standard metric cup is 115g. The above is a guide only. * AAD = ADVANCE Adult Dog diet ADVANCE Puppy
Age of Puppy in Months
2 Mths 3 Mths 4 Mths 5 Mths 6 Mths 9 Mths 12 Mths
Size of Adult Dog (kg) Amount of Food (g/day)
2kg 40 50 60 60 60 AAD AAD
3kg 55 70 80 80 80 AAD AAD
4kg 70 85 95 100 100 AAD AAD
5kg 80 105 115 115 120 AAD AAD
6kg 95 120 130 135 135 135 AAD
7kg 105 135 145 150 150 150 AAD
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For most dogs with an adult weight of less than 25kg the puppy growth all breed is suitable. For medium sized dogs you generally feed this food for the first 12 months.
5-25kg dog Feeding guide
Age of Puppy in Months 2 3 4 5 6 9 12 15 18 21
Size of Adult Dog Amount of Food (g/day)
Toy <5kg 55 70 80 80 80 AAD AAD AAD AAD AAD
Small 5-10kg 105 135 145 150 150 150 AAD AAD AAD AAD
Medium 10-25kg 185 235 260 265 270 265 ADD AAD AAD AAD
1 Standard metric cup = 115g. The above is a guide only.
* AAD = ADVANCE Adult Dog Diet
For large breeds including Labs, Golden Retrievers and other dogs that generally exceed 25kg as adults we recommend the puppy plus LARGE BREED food for the first 12 months (18 months in giant breeds). It is particularly important in these breeds not to overfeed! This can lead to lifelong problems.
Large Breed Feeding Guide
1 Standard metric cup = 115g. The above is a guide only.* AAD = ADVANCE Adult Dog diet
Age of Puppy in Months
1 Mths 2 Mths 3 Mths 4 Mths 6 Mths 12 Mths 18 Mths 24 Mths
Size of Adult Dog
Amount of Food (g/day)
25 133 232 328 387 435 AAD AAD AAD
30 152 266 376 443 498 AAD AAD AAD
35 171 299 422 498 559 AAD AAD AAD
45 207 361 510 601 675 677 AAD AAD
45 207 361 510 601 675 677 AAD AAD
55 240 419 593 699 785 787 AAD AAD
65 272 475 672 792 890 892 AAD AAD
75 303 529 748 882 991 993 972 AAD
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Should I feed a wet or canned food?
A quality dry food is completely balanced. Think of wet food more as a treat. This also saves a lot of money as when you buy wet food you are paying more for a lot less nutrients as much of the can is water.
Too fat or too thin?
First use the following chart to assess your pup’s condition. We should generally aim for a body score of 3 as seen below. If you pup is to lean increase their food a little, if too fat then reduce it a little. If there is un-explained weight loss or you have issues getting it right please call us to discuss what to do next.
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Intestinal Worms – Whats all the fuss about?
Puppies get worms form their mother at birth so all new pups should be considered as having worms. No worm product is 100% effective and worms can be picked up from many places therefore it is important to worm dogs regularly. This is particularly important in pups as their body is not yet developed enough to keep worms under control. This means that worms can be FATAL in young dogs if not treated. The puppy in the picture below has bloated tummy full of worms.
There are a variety of worms that can infect dogs and
many of these can also infect humans. Puppies should
be wormed according to the following program with a
good quality intestinal wormer such as Drontal syrup
or tablets. Avoid supermarket preparations as these
may be less effective.
When to treat for worms:
Every 2 weeks from birth to 12 weeks old
Monthly from 12 weeks to 6 months
Then every 3 months for life
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Heartworm
Heartworm is spread by mosquitoes which deliver the tiny larvae under the dog’s skin. Over time these
migrate to the heart where they grow into very large worms. These can lead to heart failure, which is
usually the first sign that a dog has heart worm.
Heartworm is treatable but the damage caused to the heart by the worms is not and the treatment can
be dangerous. For this reason prevention is far better than a cure.
There are two commonly used types of prevention. Monthly treatments (tablets or ‘spot ons’) are very
effective however these are often forgotten. Missing only one of these monthly treatments can allow a
heartworm infection to become established. For this reason these are only recommended for people who
are confident they will not forget to give them!
Many people choose the annual injection because it takes away the stress each month. A second
injection is given when your dog gets its annual vaccination each year. This prevents a heartworm
infection becoming established.
Puppies grow quickly, so they do need more than one injection in their first year of life; initially an
injection is given with the second vaccination (at 12 weeks of age) and a booster is given when they are 6
months old. After this they are due with their usual annual vaccination when they are around 15 months
old.
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Fleas and Ticks
Ticks: Ticks are generally not a problem in and around Geelong and
paralysis tick (Ixodes holocyclus) is not seen here. If traveling with your
dog please consult the clinic regarding the latest options in tick
prevention.
Fleas:
Fleas are tiny black/brown insects that live in the environment and survive by
feeding on domestic animals. They can cause a range of issues from skin
inflammation through to flea allergy dermatitis and infection. They also play a role
in the transmission of tapeworms as flea larvae eat tapeworm eggs and may then
travel from host to host. The good news is that fleas are generally easily controlled.
Because it is important to treat all cats and dogs in the household we will discuss both species here.
There are a range of products available on the market to treat fleas. Generally we recommend a
veterinary or pet store produce as many of those stocked at supermarkets are infective.
Most products are applied on to the back of the next or given orally once every month and do a great job
of controlling fleas. The product chosen will depend on the type of treatment you find easier and your
pets coat, lifestyle and in some cases sensitivity to flea bites.
Some of the products we recommend are listed on the next page. We stock the products pictured.
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Bravecto
The newest on the market, Bravecto shows much
promise as it is the ONLY flea treatment that lasts
a full 3 months with one dose (4 months for
paralysis tick!) It is given as an oral chew with
food and is readily accepted by most dogs. It
won’t wash off and has a high safety margin.
Advantage and Frontline
Advantage and frontline come as liquid
pippetes applied to the back of the dog or
cats neck once a month.
It is important to get the product for the
right species/size animal
May be applied every two weeks in flea
outbreaks
Not the best option for very thick coated
dogs or where animals are bathed frequently
Comfortis
A chewable meat flavoured tablet given to
dogs or cats (same product) monthly with
food
Must be given with food or they may vomit
Great for animals that are regularly bathed,
swim or have thick coats.
Great for flea allergy dermatitis cases
Not a good option for animals that are
difficult to tablet and won’t take medication
in food
Advocate and Revolution
The same properties as advantage however it also
treats most of the intestinal worms
Treats heartworm
Does not treat tapeworm infection but helps to
prevent it as it treats fleas.
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Vaccinations
Your puppy may have had a vaccination with the breeder, in which case they should have a vaccine
card signed by the vet that will tell you when they are next due for a needle. If not please contact
the clinic as soon as possible to discuss what to do next. Generally if unsure it is better to give an
extra vaccine than risk contracting nasty diseases like parvo virus. If you have ever had a dog with
parvovirus and are intending to get or have
a new puppy please contact the clinic
immediately as the area where your
previous dog was sick may still be
contagious, even if it was years ago.
Generally at Vet 2 Pet puppies will get one
vaccination at 6‐8 weeks old. This starts to
develop immunity against 3 key diseases:
Distemper, Canine Infectious Hepatitis and
Parvovirus
The components of the C3 vaccination
Canine Distemper
Thanks to vaccination Distemper is far less common that it was previously in Geelong however it
is still out there. Even pet ferrets can be affected. Distemper is highly contagious and fatal in around 50% of cases. As the virus infects many body systems the symptoms can vary but often include; fever, discharge from the eyes and nose, vomiting, diarrhoea, not eating, skin problems, hardening of the pads on the feet as well as the nose, seizures and other neurological problems including paralysis.
Canine Infectious Hepatitis
Dogs affected by this disease have problems relating to their liver; hepatitis literally translates
inflammation (itis) of the liver (heapt) . Symptoms may include fever, depression, vomiting,
abdominal pain, conjunctivitis, problems with blood clotting and low numbers of white blood
cells which are the cells that control your immune system. This is fatal in around 30% of cases.
Canine Parvo Virus;
Parvo is by far the most common of the three diseases and we see pups die from this every year.
This is the main reason we recommend not walking you pup until after the second vaccination.
They can catch this terrible virus by simply sniffing the ground where an affected dog pooed
years ago! They do not need contact with another dog to catch it. Its main symptom is a bloody
diarrhoea which without treatment is often fatal.
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The second puppy vaccination; the ‘C5’
The second vaccination is given at 12 weeks old and boosts the first injection. At this time your
puppy will usually receive another vaccine dribbled down their nostrils. This vaccine develops
protection against canine cough and is more effective when given this way. It also removes the need
for your pet to have a third vaccination. This means you can start socialising them earlier.
Generally we recommend you do not start walking you dog until 10‐14 days after this
vaccination. Starting puppy school is allowed after the first vaccination as all dogs attending puppy
school should be healthy and vaccinated. This scenario is low risk and we believe the benefit of early
socialisation is worth it!
In addition to boosting the previously mentioned ‘C3’ components to strengthen immunity this also
protects your dog against some common causes of Canine cough (or kennel cough). This vaccine is
actually dribbled into you dogs nose as this creates better immunity than an injection under the skin
and means your pup will not need a third vaccination. As some dogs can have a slight reaction (most
commonly a very mild transient sneeze or cough) we do assess each patient as an individual. If you
have a breed like a pug that has a very compact nose it may be advised to use the injectable canine
cough vaccination instead. If you have any questions or concerns please advise us before we give
the vaccination.
The good news – 14 days after this is given you can start taking your new pup out for walks in public!
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Desexing
If you are not planning to breed your dog then we highly advise that you consider
desexing. Desexing has many health benefits including:
Reducing behaviours driven by the so called 'sex' hormones: oestrogen and testosterone.
This includes aggression, sent marking and even roaming.
Removing the risk of nasty cancers like uterine and ovarian
cancer as well as testicular cancer
Reducing the risk of other tumours drastically like breast
cancers.
Reducing the risk of many other diseases such as prostate
infections and uterine infections (called pyometra)
Stopping unwanted pregnancy
If you are planning to breed from your dog we highly recommended that you seek advice before
doing so and get both parent animals thoroughly health checked. Consider the risk to your pet and
the number of unwanted puppies that are euthanised every year in shelters. Breeding is a big
commitment and will need you to do a lot of research and time, especially if things don’t go well!
Before breeding please ask for a copy of the Vet2Pet handout on breeding and raising puppies.
We generally recommend desexing at 14‐16 weeks old as the body is mature enough to undergo the
surgery with similar safety to that of an adult animal, however the reproductive organs are far less
developed. This means a shorter surgery, a smaller incision and a faster recovery. It also minimises
the risk that go through ‘puppy puberty’ and have their season (called coming on heat) which
increases their risk of breast cancer drastically.
At desexing we generally pick up your pet from your house in the morning and take them back to
our base clinic. They get a premedication injection that makes them relaxed and includes a pain
relief medication. They then have an anaesthetic very similarly to how a human would. An injection
is given into a vein that makes them sleepy, then a tube is passed into their trachea (the tube they
breathe down) and anaesthetic gas is used to keep them asleep while the procedure is
performed. Afterwards they get an antibiotic injection to help prevent infections and a pain relief
injection to keep them comfy. You will be given some pain relief tablets when we take them home.
These endure they have a good recovery over the next few days.
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What happens during desexing:
Females
Spey: A spey is the name given to neutering a female dog. This procedure is a complete
ovariohisterectomy ‐ that is we remove both ovaries and all of the uterus down to the cervix.
Males
Castration: A castration involves removing both testicles
from a male dog from an incision made just in front of the
scrotum.
Afterwards we will return your dog home to you. Generally
we do this on the same day. They will usually be fitted with
an Elizabethan collar (as worn by the German Shepherd in
the picture) to stop them chewing at their stitches which
will need to be removed in 2 weeks time.
Blood testing and Intravenous Fluids
We are proud to offer in house pre anaesthetic blood testing and intravenous fluids during all
surgeries at Vet 2 Pet.
While optional for young puppies these things allow us to increase our already high standards of
safety during you pet’s procedure. Blood testing allows us to screen for hidden disease and also
establish a normal baseline for your pet. A pre anaesthetic panel checks your pet’s red and white
bloods cells, platelets, blood glucose and some common indicators of liver and kidney function. This
allows is to detect many concerns before they cause problems and offer the best treatment for your
pet. It also allows us to tailor the medications used during the procedure to you dogs personal
health.
‘Intravenous fluids’ means placing a catheter into a vein and giving a sterile electrolyte solution
directly into the blood stream. This may also be referred to as a ‘Drip’ or ‘IV’. This keeps your pet
hydrated during their procedure and helps to replace any fluids lost and maintain their blood
pressure. This also can mean a faster recovery for your pet as it allows the kidneys to eliminate more
water and with it clear many medications.
Please feel free to discuss these options, pricing and benefits with our staff before your pet’s
procedure or when we pick your dog up.
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Puppy Pre School
Socialisation is important in developing a happy well‐adjusted puppy. Your dog may associate with other
family pets however this is similar to children having siblings and is not a replacement for meeting the
outside world.
The optimal age to socialise a dog really starts before the vaccinations are complete and this is why
puppy school is a good idea. It is a great way to get a group of like‐minded people with animals of similar
age that are healthy to come together in a group. The main aim of puppy school should be teaching your
dog how to react well to challenges like other dogs, new people and strange places. It is not so much
about learning to sit and stay however these things are a definite plus! Many places run puppy classes so
one option is to ask at local pet shops. Remember to ask if their classes are run by a qualified dog trainer
and how they assure the area is cleaned prior to classes to prevent disease in pups that are not yet fully
vaccinated.
Once your pet is vaccinated we recommend you start doing everything with them that you will do later in
life. This may include professional grooming, lead walking, visits to the beach etc. Only do what is safe
however and do not ask too much of your young dogs growing body. Long, vigorous exercise is generally
something to limit while young dogs are growing but can be discussed in depth with one of our vets.
We generally recommend attending Hayley Wright’s puppy classes, run out of Newtown Veterinary
Clinic. Hayley’s training methods are aimed at producing happy problem free puppies that are pets for
life. Her classes go much deeper than ‘sit’ and ‘stay’ commands and really help strengthen your bond
with your pet.
Hayley can be contacted on her mobile: 0409 854 120 or more
information can be found on her;
Website: http://www.takingthelead.net.au/
Facebook page; https://www.facebook.com/takingtheleadtraining
She also runs private training and adult dog training for those
people that prefer a private session
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Pet insurance
Pet insurance is something we believe every pet owner should consider and when you get your new
puppy is the perfect time to start. This is because you are starting before any health problems arise
so they are unlikely to be excluded under your policy. While at Vet 2 Pet we do not sell or promote
any particular insurance company we do realise how easily the right policy could save the life of your
pet and spare you and your family from heartache.
Is pet insurance right for us?
We cannot answer this question for you however we do believe it is worth some thought. Ask
yourself how you would manage if your pet was bitten by a snake or hit by a car. While these are
worst case scenarios they do happen and it is worth spending a little time thinking about what you
would do. Hospitalisation and treatment in a specialist centre can easily amount to thousands of
dollars. Pet insurance may be something worth considering just as health insurance is something
you have probably thought about for yourself.
If you are looking for a policy some things we think are important to consider are:
Accident vs Accident and Illness policies – in our opinion it is best to have both. Many major issues in
pets are note defined as an ‘accident’. Look for a policy that also covers illness.
Policy limits –What you need is likely to depend on your financial situation. Some things to consider
are that injuries sustained by a car accident could easily wind up with your pet in intensive care at a
specialist centre. Avoid policies that only cover a few thousand dollars off care a year as in many
circumstances this is not enough. While these cheaper policies are appealing they may still leave
you in a precarious situation should your pet be involved in a motor vehicle accident or eat
something particularly toxic or be bitten by a snake.
Waiting periods – Generally there is something like a one month waiting period on illness
claims. This means you need to get your policy early, before your pet becomes sick or you may find
that some things are excluded. The perfect time to get pet insurance is generally when you get your
new puppy or kitten, before any health issues have occurred. Do your homework! A little research
now may mean everything in the long run. Yes, unfortunately this means actually reading the policy
disclosure statements from a few companies, so set aside some quiet time.
The best time to sign up is when you first get your dog or puppy; before it has a history of any prior
problems and before something bad happens!
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Where to find more information.
Below is a list of links to some of the companies our clients have chosen in the past. These links are
by no means exhaustive and are only intended to provide somewhere to start. For more companies
just try entering ‘pet insurance Australia’ into Google. We don’t recommend or have an affiliation
with any individual company and there are certainly more out there so have a look around and ask
your home and health insurance providers as they may offer bundled plans that often work out good
value for money.
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Bathing
Many people ask how often to bath their dog. There is no right or wrong answer provided you use
the right shampoo. Generally choose a product that is not a flea treatment and not overly
scented. Oatmeal based products or the paws puppy range are often good choices as these should
not strip oil from the coat. It may help to use a good conditioner. We stock and commonly
recommend Nutriderm shampoo and conditioners:
For breeds that commonly have a problem called atopic dermatitis (similar to eczema) current
recommendations are to bath as infrequently as possible as regular bathing in the first year of life
may increase the chance of this issue.
These breeds include Golden Retrievers, Labrador Retrievers, Lhasa Apsos, Wire Fox Terriers, West
Highland White Terriers, Dalmatians, Poodles, English Setters, Irish Setters, Boxers, and Bulldogs
When bathing remember little bodies get cold quickly do make sure not to leave them wet when it’s
cold. A hair dryer is useful but always keep your hand between the drier and the dog to be sure you
are not burning them. It is a good idea to get long haired dogs used to the sound of a drier early in
life.
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Ears
Getting water into your dog’s ear canals is a good way to start an ear infection so try to avoid this or
consider using a recommended ear cleaner (i.e.: paws or epiotic) after bathing. To do this simply fill
your dog’s ears with the cleaner, massage for a minute or two then wipe as much away as possible.
Don’t put cotton tips down your dogs ears as if you push too far you can damage the ear drum.
Ear infections are a common problem in
dogs, particularly those with floppy ears,
long ears or hairy ear canals. They can
often be prevented by regular cleaning
and sometimes plucking the hair from the
canal. Always ask your vet for their
advice before starting this.
Ear mites can also cause a lot of gunk to
build up in the ears however they are not
very common. If you are concerned
please ask our advice before putting ear
treatments in your pet’s ears.
If you dogs ear smells, has a lot of dark
coloured or yellow discharge or is red
then it is best to get them checked by your vet. Some medications can do damage to the inner ear if
the ear drum is ruptured so it is important that we examine your pets ears before you medicate
them. Cleaners may cause pain when the ear is infected so if you are concerned you are better to do
nothing and wait for your vets advice.
Left to right: normal ear, early ear infection accelerated by reduced air flow from excess hair, severe
ear infection
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Eyes
Your pets eyes are very sensitive so please contact us before putting ANY medicine in them.
Most puppies have happy healthy eyes however there are a few common problems:
Tear staining.
This is cause by bacteria living in the tears that overflow onto the fur. These
tears may overflow because the tear ducts are blocked or not properly
formed. We may be able to flush these out when we de‐sex your puppy. If
concerned discuss this with your vet. It is fine to use a wet face washer to
clean this area but be careful of chemicals that may irritate the eyes.
Red eyes:
Red eyes in pups are often caused by droopy eyelids. This is
particularly common in breeds like Rottweilers Basset Hounds and
Burnese Mountain dogs. If your pup does not ‘grow into’ there
eyelids these may need to be corrected surgically. It is ok to use
human lubricating eye drops called Viscotears to help with the
redness in the meantime. The eyes may need occasional bathing
with warm salty water. Please discuss any eye problems with your
vet.
Cherry eye
Cherry eye is a term used to describe a problem where the tear
gland in the third eyelid pop out and stays visible. This generally
needs surgical correction. If you see this don’t panic. You can clean
the area with warm salty water and see your vet in the next couple
of days.
There are too many eye problems to cover in depth in this handout and eyes can get worse quickly
so if you are worried call your vet immediately to discuss the problem.
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Hernias
Hernias are an opening in the muscle wall of the body that can allow the organs to sit under the skin.
In puppies these are generally formed either by improper meshing of the muscle at A the dogs belly
button (sometimes because the mother chews the umbilical cord to close) or in the groin B.
These can happen in any breed or sex of dog and the umbilicus (belly button) is the most common
site. In males this is an inch or so in front of the penis. They are more common in small breeds like
Shihtzus.
If small they may close on their own but if not we recommend closing them at the
time of de‐sexing. If large they will probably require surgery. In most cases this
can wait until de‐sexing however they need to be checkED regularly. It is possible
for abdominal organs to pass through the hole and twist or get stuck. This can be
an emergency. If a hernia suddenly becomes hard, hot or painful you should seek
veterinary help immediately. Generally they are soft and often contain only fat
which can be easily pushed back into the abdomen.
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Teeth
Puppies, like humans, have baby teeth. These fall out in the first 6 months and are replaced by adult
teeth. As most dogs don’t brush their teeth it is important to develop good habits while they are
young. This means teaching them to chew a quality food with pieces large enough to cover the
whole of each tooth. (As in diagram for Hills T/D below) It is also a good idea to get your pup used to
being touched around the mouth and having their mouth opened. This means you will be able to
pick up problems early.
Some pups may be born with abnormal jaws – in most cases this is a bottom jaw that is too short or
long. In some breeds like boxers this is so common that people often call it normal!
Other breeds such as Chihuahuas commonly have issues with their baby teeth falling out (as in
picture with red arrow below). If this occurs they will need to be removed or they are likely to cause
problems. The earlier this sort of issue is corrected, the better the chance for the other teeth to
develop normally. Breeds like Maltese terriers and Shihtzus commonly have very crowded mouths
and in some cases strategically removing a few teeth early on may lead to much more normal
development of the other teeth and less dental disease in future.
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Why worry about teeth?
Plenty of reasons: dental disease is the number one problem in cats and dogs. It is well recognised
that over 80% of dogs will have significant dental disease by the age of 3!
This means that in these dogs there is Pain, Pus, Bone loss, Infection and or decay. This is not ok and
one thing is for sure – if we do nothing it will get worse.
Your dog can’t tell you when it is in pain and it is a common misconception that a dog would not eat
if its teeth hurt. This is not true – their only other choice is starvation. In the wild a dog that shows
its weakness, including illness or pain, may be pushed out of the pack. For this reasons dogs are
masters at hiding pain. We need to be on the constant look out of broken, discoloured or abnormal
looking teeth. Often the gums around problem teeth may show signs of redness, thickening, pulling
back or even pus. Bad breath is often the first thing owners report when their dogs teeth need help.
This occurs because the gum disease is creating pus and can also lead to a smelly coat as dogs lick
their body to clean themselves, spreading this around.
The best plan? Stop it before it starts!
For some dogs this may simply mean a good diet but in most cases
some sort of intervention will be required at some stage in their lives.
Brushing is the gold standard and even brushing only three times a
week can make a huge difference. To do this you need a soft
toothbrush and a tooth paste designed for dogs. These come in a
variety of flavours and brands and are available from most pet shops.
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Other options
There are also water additives like Aquadent that work in a similar way to mouth wash. These are
placed in your pets water daily and are safe for them to drink unlike regular mouth wash.
Chewing can make a big difference if your
dog is a good chewer. Greenies are a good
option for dogs that spend a lot of time
chewing them. Generally any chew that is
gone in less than 60 seconds is not doing
much. If giving bones pick large whole
bones that cannot be swallowed. Don’t
expose the marrow as this is mainly fat
and can lead to upset tummies.
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Sometimes teeth just need extra help
Even with all of this some pets, like some people, will need to have regular teeth cleaning by their
dentist (vet).
To do this we pick your pet up and take them to our clinic where they have a short anaesthetic. We
then use an ultrasonic scaler to clean the teeth above and below the gum line, and a special paste to
polish them. This is just like what happens when you get a scale and clean at the dentist.
It is best to do this before disease is severe as this gives the best chance of keeping your pets teeth
for their whole life! It also reduces the risk of a number of diseases such as kidney failure and heart
disease as bacteria from the teeth can get into the blood stream and end up in many places around
the body.
It has been found that dogs that are maintained with a low dental score (at or below two) for their
whole lives actually live longer.
The dental grading system is a way to assess how much
dental disease your dog’s teeth have and whether the
damage is permanent.
After grade 1 some of the damage may be irreversible.
This means that the best time to get you dogs teeth
cleaned is when they are a grade 1 as we can make them
normal and healthy again.
Don’t panic; we may then be able to make some small
changes to their lifestyle to keep them that way longer.
Getting the best start
Prevention is always better than a cure. The best way to
do this is to include as many of the options listed earlier as
possible. You should aim to do something every day.
Maybe you brush your dog’s teeth three times a week,
give a greenie on the other days and use a quality food?
Maybe you can’t brush but can use Aquadent? The habits
you form now with your pup will last a lifetime so
consider giving brushing a try.