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At the doctor: Injecting a fillerlike Restylane or Juvederrn underthe eyes can reduce sunkennessas well as darkness. Made from hyal-uronic acid, a sugar found naturallyin the body, these fillers (whichstart at $650 a syringe) typically lastoround six months, or longer withtouch-ups, for which you'll pay onlyfor the amount needed. Totreatmore pronounced under-eye bags,a lower-lid blepharoplasty, a sur-gical procedure, will remove theoffending fat pad.

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A t home: Because dark circles areoften hereditary, they can be trickyto treat. Regular application of anunder-eye cream containing vitaminK and light-reflecting pigments,like HydroPeptide EyeAuthority ($74,zyxwvutsrqponmlkjihgfedcbaZYXWVUTSRQPONMLKJIHGFEDCBAhydropeptide.com ) will help brightenthe area. For under-eye bags, a mas-saging eye treatment with caffeine,such as Olay Eyes De-Puffing EyeRoller($25, olay.com ). can deflate andperk up tired-looking eyes.Also, keepthese treatments in the refrigeratorfor an instant cooling effect.

The delicate .eyearea is the first call to actionfor many women. Under-eye circles and puffinesscan appear because the skin there is thin anddoesn't have as much padding as the rest of theface. Sometimes just a bad night's sleep is toblame, but more often than not, it's your geneticdestiny. "Most dark circles are caused by broken-down blood cells that deposit their pigment be-neath the skin," says New York City dermatologistAmy Wechsler. Puffiness, on the other hand,occurs when the fat pad under the eye migratesdown and out toward the surface of the skin.Allergies, along with alcohol and salt consump-tion, can magnify both problems.

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Wide-aw akezyxwvutsrqponmlkjihgfedcbaZYXWVUTSRQPONMLKJIHGFEDCBAeyes

Better Skin,D istilledWhether it's a wrinkle in time or a subtle smattering of discoloration that can emerge

as early as our 20s, most of us have one thing we'd like to improve about ourcomplexion. The good news is that now there are great ways to do just that-at home

or in a dermatologist's office. Learn how to treat the six most common concerns.PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHELSEA MCNAMARA TEXT BY MELISSA MILRAD GOLDSTEIN

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Beauty

44

MARTHASTEWART.COM

At the doctor: If you don't see an improvementafter using over-the-counter acne treatments fora few weeks, see a dermatologist for oral onti-biotics like doxycycline or Accutane, steroid injec-tions, chemical peels, or lasers like Regenliteand Isolaz, all of which "work wonders" on acne,says Wechsler .

At home: The same ingredients that treat teenacne-salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide-workon adults. Resistthe urge, however, to reach fora 10 percent benzoyl-peroxide treatment, as adultskin becomes more sensitive than it once was, TryLa Roche-Posay Effaclar Duo ($37,zyxwvutsrqponmlkjihgfedcbaZYXWVUTSRQPONMLKJIHGFEDCBAtorocne-posov

. us), with 5.5 percent benzoyl peroxide.

Atthedoctor: There's no one-slze-flts-oll recipe for toning andadding volume to skin, but mostdermatologists enlist laser or ultra-sound therapies, like Fraxel andUlthera, to stimulate collagenand tighten skin. For volume, hvcl-uronic-ocid filler injections providean immediate lift. There'sartistryinvolved in achieving a naturaleffect, as the viscosity and longev·ity of each filler differ. For instance,Colbert prefers Radiesseto tonethe jawline, Restylane to plump uplips, and Juvederrnor Restyloneto raise cheekbones and minimizejowls and the nasolabial "brackets"that stretch from nose to mouth.Such fillers typically last sixmonths or longer (depending onthe area) and begin at $650.

new reserves.

At home: BuildingII> collagen and

maintaining elas-tin are key.Seekout saIves with

ingredients like ceramides thathold in moisture, such as CaudaiieResveratrolLift Night InfusionCream ($76, us.caudalie.com).

"Also, usea retinol religiously," saysDavid Colbert, a dermatologistand founder of the NewYork Derma-tology Group. It will strengthenremaining elastin and help build

Your skin's supportive networkof collagen and elastin weakensover time, and the areas aroundthe cheeks, brow, eyes, lips, andneck start to droop. Couple thatwith sun damage, weight fluctua-tions, genetics, dehydration, andgravity, and the effects becomeeven more apparent.

IF YOU WANTzyxwvutsrqponmlkjihgfedcbaZYXWVUTSRQPONMLKJIHGFEDCBAClearerskin

Got stress? Agita, genes, andhormones bear the blamefor midlife acne breakouts. Butunlike puberty-induced T-zoneeruptions, these appear moreinflamed and occur mostlyaround the mouth and jawline.

At home: Both retinol(for skin-cell turnover) andhydroquinone can be

.. effective on melanin whenused "properly and judi-ciously," says Boston der·matologist Ranella Hirsch.

The lotter is a melanin·lighteningtopical in products like DCL AHALightening Gel ($100, dclskincare

.com). "The one key mistake peoplemake, even after successfully re-ducing brown spots, is not realizingthat they will absolutely developmore pigment if they don't con-tinue with sunscreen," Hirsch says.

At the doctor: "Hyperpigmentationis among the most difficult thingsdermatologists treat," says Hirsch.

"There are multiple moving parts."Lasersare the go-to for most derrno-tologists, but care needsto be takento ensure that they don't inadver-tently create more pigment. A typi-cal course of treatments includesintense pulsed light or fraction-ated laser, a mix of doctor-cdrnln-istered peels, at-home topicalcreams, and copious sun protection.

We all have melanin; it's thepigment that colors our hair andskin. But sunexposure, genetics,hormones-even picking a pimpleor a bug.bite-can result in itsoverproduction, which shows upas brown splotches on the faceand body.

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Atthedoctor: "Peelsare an excel-lent way to boost the outcomeof at-home skin care," says VivianBucay, a dermatologist in SanAntonio, Texas,who likes the PCASensi Peelwith trichloroacetic acid(TCA)for its minimal down timeand tolerance by highly sensitiveskin. These professional-gradepeelsslough away dead skin so yourtreatments are more effectiveand healthier skin shines through.

At home: Look for thisglow-inducing trio: retinol(to increase cell renewaland improve skin textureand thickness),vitamin C(an antioxidant and skinbrightener that also helps

build collagen), and olpho- hydroxyacids (to slough away dry cellsfor brighter skin). Find all threein L'Oreal Paris RevitaLift BrightReveal Brightening Dual Over-night Moisturizer ($20, lorealparis

uso.com).

Children's skin always looks brightbecause its cellular turnover isoperating at peak efficiency. Butskin's repair and renewal mecha-nisms slow down, leaving you witha dull, lackluster complexion inneed of a pick-me-up.

IFYOU WANT

Supple skinIFYOU WANT

An even skin tone

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IF YOU WANT

A glowing complexion

46

Beauty

At the doctor: Line-srnoothlnqinjectables such as Botox, Dvsport.and Xeomin flatten crow's feetand forehead creases by blockingthe signals nerves send to themuscles, causing them to (tempo-rarily) stop contracting; these lastthree to six months and beginat $300. "For deeper lines, we alsouse a filler," says Grossman, whoprefers hyaluronic-acid injectablefillers like Belotero and RestylaneSilk,which last around six monthsand cost from $500 per syringe.

At home: Start the daywith a moisturizer thatcontains antioxidants,

~ like licorice and rose-mary, or peptides toramp up skin's collagenproduction; then follow

with a layer of SPFprotection, saysSanta Monica, California, derrno-tologist Karyn Grossman. At night,also apply a retinol, an over-the-counter vitamin A derivative, whichwill help increase cellulor turnoverand improve skin texture and tone.

"Prescription retinoids like RetinA,Differin, and Tazorac are still thebest wrinkle erasers," Grossmansays, but their strength can causeirritation. For a milder at-homeoption, she suggests the retinol-end-hvoluronic-acid duo found inNeutrogena Rapid Wrinkle RepairSerum ($22, neutrogena.com).

Every expression-from smilesto smirks-causes temporarycreases. But when skin's supplyof collagen decreases as youage, those creases don't bounceback as quickly, and wrinklesgradually emerge. Sun exposure,cigarette smoking, and inflam-mation-causing free-radicals likepollution hasten that process.

IF YOU WANT

Smoother skin