ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 1*FORMULATING,AND,CREATING,ANHYDROUS,PRODUCTS,

INTRODUCTION)TO)FORMULATING)ANHYDROUS)PRODUCTS) 4*WHAT)YOULL)NEED)TO)MAKE)ANHYDROUS)PRODUCTS) 5*WHIPPED)BUTTERS) 6*

BASIC&RECIPE&FOR&A&WHIPPED&BUTTER& 6*MODIFIED&RECIPE&FOR&A&WHIPPED&BUTTER& 6*

SOME)IDEAS)FOR)OTHER)TYPES)OF)WHIPPED)BUTTERS) 9*WHIPPED&BABASSU,&SAL&&&HEMP&SEED&OIL&BUTTER& 9*WHIPPED&BUTTER&FOR&ITCHY,&DRY,&WINTER&SKIN& 10*RECIPE&FOR&WHIPPED&BUTTER&INTENDED&TO&HELP&WITH&DRY,&ITCHY&SKIN& 11*WHIPPED&MANGO&BUTTER& 11*WHIPPED&MANGO&BUTTER&RECIPE& 11*WHIPPED&BUTTERS&FOR&VARIOUS&SKIN&TYPES& 11*LESS&GREASY&WHIPPED&MANGO&BUTTER& 14*

RANCIDITY:)A)PRIMER) 15*MECHANISMS)OF)RANCIDITY) 17*ANTI?OXIDANTS)AND)OUR)OILS) 19*LOTION)BARS) 20*

BASIC&LOTION&BAR&RECIPE& 20*MODIFIED&LOTION&BAR&RECIPE&WITH&VITAMIN&E&AND&SCENT& 20*MODIFYING&THE&WAXES&IN&THE&LOTION&BAR& 22*BABASSU,&KOKUM&&&BEESWAX&LOTION&BAR& 23*BASIC&LOTION&BAR&WITH&CANDELILLA&WAX& 23*BASIC&LOTION&BAR&WITH&SOY&WAX& 23*MODIFYING&THE&OILS&AND&BUTTERS&IN&A&LOTION&BAR& 24*MANGO&BUTTER&LOTION&BAR& 24*MASSAGE&BAR&WITH&COCOA&BUTTER& 25*SWIFTS&FAVOURITE&LOTION&BAR&RECIPE& 25*FORMULATING&A&FACIAL&LOTION&BAR& 26*RECIPE&FOR&A&FACIAL&LOTION&BAR& 29*FORMULATING&A&FOOT&CARE&LOTION&BAR& 29*SUMMER&TIME&FOOT&CARE&LOTION&BAR& 31*SOLID&PERFUME& 32*SOLID&PERFUME&RECIPE& 32*LOTION&BAR&WRAPDUP&AND&LINKDODRAMA& 33*

BALMS) 34*MANGO&BUTTER&LOTION&BAR&MODIFIED&INTO&A&BALM& 35*WHIPPED&BUTTER&WITH&ESSENTIAL&OILS&THAT&MIGHT&BE&GOOD&FOR&INCREASING&CIRCULATION&AND&SOOTHING&SORE&MUSCLES& 35*WHIPPED&SHEA&BUTTER&WITH&BORAGE&AND&CALENDULA&OIL& 36*SHEA&BUTTER&LOTION&BAR&WITH&BORAGE&AND&CALENDULA&OIL& 37*MODIFYING&YOUR&BALM&RECIPE& 37*AFTER&SUN&BALM&WITH&LAVENDER&ESSENTIAL&OIL& 38*EXOTIC&AFTER&SUN&BALM&WITH&LAVENDER&ESSENTIAL&OIL& 38*A&NEW&BALM&RECIPE& 39*

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 2*BASIC&NEW&BALM&RECIPE& 39*MODIFIED&BALM&RECIPE&WITH&CETYL&ALCOHOL& 40*

AN)ASIDE)ON)USING)ESSENTIAL)OILS) 41*OIL)BASED)SCRUBS) 42*

IN&THE&TUB&SCRUB& 42*MODIFYING&OTHER&RECIPES&TO&BECOME&SCRUB&RECIPES& 44*

SOLID)BATH)MELTS)(aka)BATH)TRUFFLES)) 46*BASIC&BATH&MELT&RECIPE& 46*BATH&MELT&WITH&EMULSIFIER& 46*

BATH)OILS) 47*BASIC&BATH&OIL&RECIPE& 47*

OIL)BASED)BODY)MOISTURIZERS) 48*APRES&BATH&OIL&MISTER& 48*OIL&BASED&SPRAY&USING&CARRIER&AND&EXOTIC&OILS&FOR&ITCHY&SKIN& 49*

ESTERS))ISOPROPYL)MYRISTATE) 51*OIL)BASED)FRAGRANCE)SPRAY) 52*

BASIC&OIL&BASED&FRAGRANCE&SPRAY& 52*OIL)BASED)FACIAL)MOISTURIZER)(aka)FACIAL)SERUM)) 53*

FACIAL&SERUM&FOR&OILY,&BREAK&OUT&PRONE&SKIN& 54*FACIAL&SERUM&FOR&DRY&SKIN& 54*

SOME)NOTES)ON)COMEDOGENICITY,)ACNE,)AND)SENSITIVE)SKIN) 57*)SOLID)SCRUB)BARS) 59*

SOLID&SCRUB&BAR&FOR&THE&BODY& 59*SOLID&SCRUB&BAR&FOR&THE&FEET& 61*

FATTY)ACIDS)AND)ALCOHOLS) 62*STEARIC&ACID& 62*CETYL&ALCOHOL& 62*

EMULSIFIERS) 63*WHAT&DOES&AN&EMULSIFIER&LOOK&LIKE?& 63*INCROQUAT&BTMS& 63*EMULSIFYING&WAX&NF& 63*

APPENDIX)1:)CARRIER)OIL)PROFILES) 65*APRICOT&KERNEL&OIL& 65*AVOCADO&OIL& 65*CASTOR&OIL& 66*COCONUT&OIL& 67*FRACTIONATED&COCONUT&OIL& 68*GRAPESEED&OIL& 69*HAZELNUT&OIL& 70*HEMP&SEED&OIL& 71*JOJOBA&OIL& 73*MACADAMIA&NUT&OIL& 75*OLIVE&OIL& 76*RICE&BRAN&OIL& 78*

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 3*SESAME&OIL& 79*SOY&BEAN&OIL& 80*SUNFLOWER&OIL& 81*SWEET&ALMOND&OIL& 81*VIRGIN&COCONUT&OIL& 83*WHEAT&GERM&OIL& 83*

APPENDIX)2))BUTTER)PROFILES) 86*COCOA&BUTTER& 86*MANGO&BUTTER& 87*SHEA&BUTTER& 88*

APPENDIX)3)?)EXOTIC)BUTTERS) 91*BABASSU&OIL& 93*

APPENDIX)4))EXOTIC)OILS) 94*BORAGE&OIL& 94*CALENDULA&OIL& 95*CAMELLIA&OIL& 96*CARROT&TISSUE&OIL& 97*CRANBERRY&OIL& 98*EVENING&PRIMROSE&OIL& 100*POMEGRANATE&OIL& 101*PUMPKIN&OIL& 102*ROSEHIP&OIL& 103*SEA&BUCKTHORN&OIL& 104*

APPENDIX)5))CHEMISTRY)OF)OILS) 107*APPENDIX)6))FATTY)ACIDS) 108*APPENDIX)7))HYDROGENATION,)FATTY)ACID)SHAPES,)AND)TRANS)FATS) 110*

HYDROGENATION& 110*FATTY&ACID&SHAPES& 110*CIS&AND&TRANS&FATS& 111*

APPENDIX)8))FATTY)ACIDS)YOU)MIGHT)FIND)IN)OILS) 112*PALMITIC&ACID& 112*STEARIC&ACID& 112*LINOLEIC&ACID& 112*OLEIC&ACID& 114*GAMMA&LINOLEIC&ACID& 115*CONJUGATED&LINOLEIC&ACID&AND&CONJUGATED&LINOLENIC&ACID& 116*

APPENDIX)9)?)OTHER)THINGS)YOU)MIGHT)FIND)IN)OILS)AND)BUTTERS) 118*VITAMIN&E&&TOCOPHEROLS&AND&TOCOTRIENOLS& 118*POLYPHENOLS& 118*PHYTOSTEROLS& 120*

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 4*INTRODUCTION,TO,FORMULATING,ANHYDROUS,PRODUCTS,What%are%anhydrous%products?%Anhydrous%means%"without%water",%and%the%term%refers%to%products%made%with%only%oil%soluble%ingredients.%Because%they%don't%contain%water%you%don't%need%to%use%a%preservative%(although%I%suggest%0.5%%to%1%%Vitamin%E%to%keep%the%oils%from%going%rancid),%and%you%can%usually%package%them%in%something%other%than%a%bottle%(like%a%chocolate%foil,%bag,%or%tin).%You%also%don't%have%to%worry%about%emulsification%(like%making%a%lotion,%where%water%soluble%and%oil%soluble%ingredients%come%together%with%the%help%of%an%emulsifier).%%%Oil%based%ingredients%are%pretty%obvious%K%oils,%butters,%essential%oils,%fragrance%oils%K%and%include%silicones,%as%well.%When%buying%an%ingredient,%check%the%INCI%or%the%information%from%the%supplier%to%see%if%it%is%oil%soluble.%Water%based%ingredients%would%be%things%like%water,%glycerin,%aloe%vera,%hydrosols,%and%surfactants.%So%you%can't%include%those%things%in%your%anhydrous%products.%(Again,%you%can%find%oil%based%aloe%vera%oil%or%butters,%so%that's%not%to%say%you%can't%find%things%that%might%work%well%with%an%oil%based%product.)%%What%happens%if%you%mix%a%water%soluble%into%an%oil%soluble%product?%You%will%get%separation.%Oil%and%water%don't%like%each%other%(check%your%salad%dressing%to%see%this%in%action).%If%you%add%a%water%soluble%ingredient%%lets%say%glycerin%K%to%an%oil%based%thing%%like%shea%butter%K%it%will%eventually%seep%out,%leaving%you%with%an%awful%mess.%%%As%I've%noted%above,%you%can%include%essential%and%fragrance%oils%into%your%anhydrous%products%without%effort,%but%colouring%can%be%a%pain.%You%cannot%use%water%based%colours%in%oil%based%products%%if%you%do,%they%will%sit%there%in%little%watery%balls%and%look%just%awful.%You%can%use%micas%and%powdered%colours%in%your%products.%%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 5*WHAT,YOULL,NEED,TO,MAKE,ANHYDROUS,PRODUCTS, ,If%youre%new%to%bath%and%body%products,%youll%want%to%buy%a%few%supplies%to%get%started.%%%Proper%recipes%for%bath%and%body%products%should%be%done%by%weight%rather%than%volume%for%accuracy.%This%is%why%I%recommend%a%digital%scale%accurate%to%1%gram.%You%can%find%these%in%any%store%with%a%kitchen%section.%I%use%an%Escali%I%purchased%from%a%supplier,%but%any%good%digital%scale%will%do.%%%Youll%also%need%a%double%boiler.%You%can%create%your%own%double%boiler%using%a%pot%on%your%stove.%Put%a%metal%ring%on%the%bottom%to%ensure%your%jugs%arent%touching%the%bottom.%I%use%an%electric%fondue%pot%as%my%double%boiler%so%I%can%adjust%the%temperature%in%a%more%accurate%way,%but%a%pot%on%a%stove%will%work%just%as%well.%Just%make%sure%your%water%isnt%boiling%but%on%a%low%heat%to%melt%your%ingredients.%%%

Youll%also%want%to%find%some%moulds%for%your%products.%You%can%use%soap%moulds%for%larger%projects%or%silicone%ice%cube%trays%or%chocolate%moulds%for%smaller%projects.%%%This%is%a%picture%of%one%of%my%favourite%moulds%%a%chocolate%mould%intended%for%peppermint%patties%from%my%local%candy%making%shop.%It%makes%10%gram%lotion%bars,%which%are%fantastic%for%gifting%or%for%sample%sizes.%%%

And%youll%want%containers%to%store%your%whipped%butters%and%balms.%You%can%use%glass,%plastic,%or%tin%jars%for%anhydrous%products%that%require%containers,%and%you%can%use%cellophane%bags%for%those%that%dont.%This%is%one%situation%in%which%reKusing%containers%is%not%suggested,%especially%for%plastic.%Oil%can%get%into%the%tiny%nooks%and%crannies%of%the%container,%and%this%oil%can%go%rancid%over%time,%even%with%the%most%meticulous%cleaning.%You%can%reKuse%glass%containers,%but%be%careful%using%these%in%the%bath%or%shower.%Your%local%supplier%should%have%some%lovely%containers%in%all%shapes%and%sizes%for%your%products%%I%like%to%have%an%assortment%of%30%ml,%60%ml,%and%120%ml%on%hand%for%various%projects,%although%30%ml%and%60%ml%are%a%fantastic%size%for%starter%projects%and%gifts!%%%%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 6*WHIPPED,BUTTERS,Whipped%butters%are%impressive%but%so%darned%easy%to%make!%They%might%seem%all%complicated%with%their%whippiness,%but%they're%simple%to%make%if%you%have%a%mixer%with%a%whisk%attachment.%(I%bought%my%Black%&%Decker%250%watt%mixer%for%$20%from%Canadian%Tire%with%two%whisk%attachments!%I'm%sure%you%could%find%a%similar%deal%at%other%big%box%retailers.)%%

This,recipe,is,rated,E,for,everyone,,but,is,especially,fantastic,for,beginners,,those,who,don't,wish,to,use,preservatives,,or,those,who,are,seeking,an,all,natural,product.,The,shelf,life,of,this,product,is,dependent,upon,the,shelf,life,of,your,oil.%

BASIC&RECIPE&FOR&A&WHIPPED&BUTTER&

80%%hard%butter%20%%oil%

MODIFIED&RECIPE&FOR&A&WHIPPED&BUTTER&

80%%hard%butter%18%%oil%1%%Vitamin%E%(optional)%1%%fragrance%or%essential%oil%(optional)%%Weigh%the%hard%butter%and%oil%in%a%heat%proof%container%and%melt%slightly%in%a%double%boiler%or%microwave.%When%the%butter%has%melted%slightly%K%you%can%tell%because%it'll%look%melted%and%probably%has%a%bit%of%oil%around%it%K%remove%it%from%the%heat%and%add%your%fragrance%oil%and%Vitamin%E%(optional).%Start%whipping!%Whip%until%it%has%doubled%in%size.%Spoon%into%jars%and%rejoice.%It%will%harden%over%the%next%few%hours.%Enjoy!%%If%you%have%melted%it%too%much,%put%it%in%the%fridge%for%a%bit%and%let%it%harden%a%little%bit%before%whipping.%Some%butters%K%like%ultraKrefined%shea%K%can%be%whipped%without%heating.%

%If%you%want%to%make%this%extra%cute,%I%suggest%spooning%the%whipped%butter%into%a%piping%bag%with%a%1M%icing%tip%and%making%a%little%swirl%at%the%top%of%the%jar,%leaving%enough%room%that%you%don't%squish%the%whipped%butter%when%you%put%the%lid%on%the%container.%Let%it%harden%before%putting%on%the%lid!%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 7*%For%your%hard%butter,%you'll%want%to%choose%something%like%shea,%mango,%babassu,%mowrah,%or%murumuru%butter.%Cocoa%or%cocoa%butter%substitutes%like%illipe,%kokum,%or%sal%butters%will%be%far%too%hard%for%a%whipped%butter,%so%if%you%like%those%butters,%you'll%want%to%use%them%at%lower%levels%and%combine%them%with%higher%levels%of%oil.%(Find%that%recipe%here.)%%As#I'm#trying#to#take#this#recipe#back#to#basics,#I'll#be#working#with#ingredients#easily#available#at#most,#if#not#all,#suppliers...%%First,%choose,your,butter.%If%you%like%a%greasier%feeling%butter,%then%go%with%shea%butter.%If%you%like%a%drier%feeling%butter,%then%go%with%mango%butter.%%Next,%choose,your,oil.%There%are%literally%dozens%of%choices%for%oils%and%this%post%could%be%pages%and%pages%long%if%I%went%through%every%choice,%but%there%are%three%considerations%K%skin%feel,%benefits%of%the%oil,%and%shelf%life.%(See%below%for%a%few%ideas...)%%Given%you%have%80%%butters%in%this%recipe,%adding%20%%of%a%really%dry%feeling%oil%like%hazelnut%to%shea%butter%will%make%your%butter%feel%a%little%less%greasy.%Adding%20%%of%a%greasier%feeling%oil%like%sunflower%will%make%it%feel%a%little%more%greasy,%so%choose%your%butter%according%to%skin%feel.%As%well,%choose%it%according%to%the%weight.%It%isn't%going%to%make%a%huge%difference%K%the%butter%will%already%feel%weighty%on%your%skin,%so%adding%a%heavy%weight%oil%like%olive%oil%won't%make%it%feel%super%heavy%on%your%skin%compared%to%fractionated%coconut%oil,%but%it's%still%a%consideration.%%I%think%the%main%reason%for%choosing%your%oil%should%be%the%benefits%it%offers%your%to%skin.%Olive%oil%can%behave%as%a%humectant,%drawing%water%from%the%atmosphere%to%your%skin.%Some%oils%contain%more%Vitamin%E%or%phytosterols%or%other%lovely%things%you%might%want%in%a%whipped%butter.%In%this%version,%I%wanted%oils%that%would%benefit%my%husband's%itchy%skin,%so%I%chose%my%oils%accordingly.%And%in%these%versions,%I%chose%oils%for%dry%and%aging%skin,%incredibly%dry%skin,%and%winter%exposed%skin.%%And%consider%the%shelf%life%of%your%oil.%If%you%are%choosing%something%like%grapeseed%or%hempseed%oil,%you%have%a%shelf%life%of%3%to%6%months%maximum.%You'll%want%to%include,the,Vitamin,E%to%extend%that%shelf%life%further.%Most%butters%have%a%shelf%life%of%2%years%or%more,%so%choosing%an%oil%with%a%long%shelf%life%can%make%for%a%whipped%butter%that%can%last%a%long%time!%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 8*%Here%are%a%few%oil%choices%I%like.%You'll%find%more%on%the%oil%reference%page...%%

rice%bran%oil%(shelf%life:%9%months%to%1%year),%medium%weight%oil,%nice%balance%of%oleic%and%linoleic%acids,%loads%of%Vitamin%E,%and%can%help%with%inflammation.%

soy%bean%oil%(shelf%life:%6%months%to%1%year),%light%to%medium%weight%oil,%high%in%linoleic%acids,%loads%of%Vitamin%E,%incredibly%moisturizing,%and%can%help%with%inflammation.%

fractionated%coconut%oil%(shelf%life:%up%to%2%years),%very%light%weight,%very%moisturizing%but%not%a%lot%of%vitamins,%phytosterols,%or%polyphenols,%nonKstaining%for%sheets%or%fabrics,%and%it's%absorbed%by%our%skin%easily.%%

sesame%oil%(shelf%life:%9%to%12%months),%light%to%medium%weight%oil,%balance%of%oleic%and%linoleic%acids,%good%moisturizing%properties,%good%antiKinflammatory%properties,%low%in%Vitamin%E,%won't%stain%fabrics%or%sheets%

macadamia%nut%oil%(shelf%life:%1%year%)%light%to%medium%weight%oil,%high%in%oleic%acids,%good%moisturizing%properties,%high%in%antiKinflammatory%and%antiKitching%properties,%high%in%squalene,%which%is%a%great%moisturizer%and%helps%with%chapped%skin.%Low%in%Vitamin%E.%%%

Having%said%all%of%this,%you%can%choose%your%oils%based%on%what%you%have%in%your%workshop%and%be%happy%with%it!%The%swirled%version%you%see%above%is%a%mixture%of%what%we%made%in%craft%group,%so%it's%about%40%%shea%butter,%40%%mango%butter,%10%%olive%oil,%and%10%%rice%bran%oil,%and%it%feels%just%awesome%(we%made%one%version%with%shea%and%rice%bran%and%another%with%mango%and%olive%oil,%and%I%just%put%together%what%was%left%over!).%I%personally%like%to%make%an%80%%ultra%refined%shea%butter,%19%%fractionated%coconut%oil,%and%1%%fragrance%oil%version,%but%I%like%my%stuff%really%greasy.%And%you%know%I%love%the%babassu%version!%(Feel%free%to%try%the%babassu%version%with%any%other%butter%or%oil%K%the%babassu%is%really%awesome!)%%Finally,%choose%whether%or%not%you%want%to%include,a,fragrance,or,essential,oil.%I%find%1%%in%a%whipped%butter%to%be%a%nice%level.%If%you%choose%an%essential%oil,%please%be%sure%to%use%it%at%a%safe%level%and%consider%whether%it%is%safe%for%pregnant%or%nursing%women,%children,%or%other%people%who%might%be%sensitive%to%it.%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 9*%

SOME,IDEAS,FOR,OTHER,TYPES,OF,WHIPPED,BUTTERS,

WHIPPED&BABASSU,&SAL&&&HEMP&SEED&OIL&BUTTER&

32.5%%hemp%seed%oil%(refined)%22%%sal%butter%43.5%%babassu%oil%

1%%Vitamin%E%1%%fragrance%or%essential%oil%%Melt%the%ingredients%until%they%are%just%liquid,%then%put%in%the%freezer%until%the%mixture%has%started%to%harden%on%the%sides.%Whip%like%silly%until%it%has%almost%doubled%in%size.%Get%your%containers%ready%because%this%is%going%to%be%really%easy%to%put%into%jars.%(I%wish%I'd%used%some%kind%of%piping%bag%instead%of%glopping%it%in,%but%I'm%not%great%with%presentation,%I%know.)%%WOW!%I'm%lost%for%words...excuse%me%for%a%moment.%Okay,%I'm%back.%I%am%in%love%with%this%recipe.%It%has%stayed%whipped%and%light%and%airy%and%WOW!%The%consistency%is%amazing%K%very%light%and%airy,%like%a%light%mousse%K%and%it%melts%when%it%hits%my%skin.%Not%too%greasy,%not%too%dry!%WOW!%%This%must%sound%like%I'm%being%arrogant,%being%so%amazed%by%something%I've%made,%but%my%repeated%wows%are%about%the%babassu%oil!%I%did%not%expect%such%a%light,%whippy,%fluffy%butter%out%of%something%that%was%so%hard%when%I%tried%to%get%it%out%of%the%container.%%An%hour%after%applying%it,%my%skin%feels%moisturized%and%not%at%all%greasy.%Four%hours%after%application,%my%skin%still%feels%lovely%and%soft,%slightly%oily%in%a%good%way.%Wow!%%To%quote%Arrested%Development,%"I'm%having%a%love%affair%with%this%babassu%oil!"%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 10*WHIPPED&BUTTER&FOR&ITCHY,&DRY,&WINTER&SKIN&

I%think%I'll%try%formulating%a%very%thick,%rich%anhydrous%butter%to%help%with%Raymond's%itchy%legs%and%dry%winter%skin!%I%know%I%said%yesterday%he%wasn't%a%fan%of%having%greasy%hands,%so%perhaps%I%could%apply%it%for%him%(he%does%like%wifely%attention!)%or%he%could%learn%to%love%the%greasiness%when%he%knows%how%wonderful%it%will%make%his%legs%feel!%%

Any%of%the%butters%will%do%for%this%application%K%all%help%moisturize,%form%an%occlusive%layer,%and%increase%moisturize%retention,%flexibility%in%skin,%and%skin%damage%repair.%I%like%mango%butter%or%shea%butter%in%a%whipped%butter%the%most,%and%I%do%have%a%lot%of%shea%butter%around,%so%I'll%choose%that%as%the%base.%%Because%I'm%no%longer%worried%about%greasiness%and%heaviness,%I'm%not%limited%by%the%oils%Ill%use.%I'll%start%with%60%%shea%butter,%and%work%from%there.%Shea%is%a%great%choice%here%as%it%is%occlusive%and%contains%a%ton%of%great%phytosterols%to%help%with%inflammation%and%itching,%as%well%as%allantoin%to%help%with%healing%those%wounds.%%Coconut%oil%would%be%a%great%option%here.%With%a%two%year%life%span,%the%lauric%acid%makes%it%a%moisturizing%and%softening%oil,%and%the%ferulic%acid%offers%antiKinflammatory%and%antiKitching%properties.%It%also%melts%nicely,%so%he%doesn't%have%to%drag%the%butter%over%his%legs.%(Virgin%coconut%oil%would%be%great,%but%I%don't%have%any%at%the%moment...)%%Sesame%seed%oil%would%be%a%great%addition,%although%it%will%reduce%the%shelf%life%to%9%to%12%months.%It%contains%a%ton%of%Vitamin%E%(700%ppm)%and%amazing%levels%of%phytosterols%to%help%with%inflammation%and%itching.%It%is%nonKstaining%K%which%is%mostly%irrelevant%as%the%other%oils%are%staining%Kand%very%moisturizing.%The%linoleic%acid%will%help%with%his%skin's%barrier%repair.%%I%still%want%to%include%some%evening%primrose%oil%for%the%GLA,%which%helps%with%skin%barrier%repair,%decreases%transepidermal%water%loss,%increases%skin%hydration%and%flexibility.%Gallic%acid%is%a%wound%healer,%and%I%need%something%for%the%scratches%on%his%legs!%%And%olive%oil!%The%phytosterols%are%antiKinflammatory%and%antiKitching,%and%it's%a%humectant!%Plus%it%contains%squalene,%which%is%nice%for%softening%and%moisturizing.%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 11*RECIPE&FOR&WHIPPED&BUTTER&INTENDED&TO&HELP&WITH&DRY,&ITCHY&SKIN&

60%%shea%butter%10%%coconut%oil%10%%sesame%seed%oil%10%%evening%primrose%10%%olive%oil%%Melt%the%shea%and%coconut%oils%slightly.%Remove%from%heat,%add%other%oils,%and%whip.%You%can%add%1%%fragrance%or%essential%oils%if%you%want.%

WHIPPED&MANGO&BUTTER&

You%can%whip%mango%butter%the%way%you'd%whip%shea%butter,%but%you%might%want%to%consider%mixing%the%mango%with%shea%or%another%soft%butter.%It%feels%very%nice,%but%some%people%find%it%astringent%and%a%bit%drying.%I%wouldn't%consider%using%avocado%butter%here%K%the%two%together%will%feel%very%powdery%and%dry.%

WHIPPED&MANGO&BUTTER&RECIPE&

40%%mango%butter%40%%other%soft%butter,%like%shea%or%olive%butter%18%%oil%K%consider%a%high%linoleic%oil%like%sesame%or%sunflower%or%rice%bran%or%soybean%1%%fragrance%oil%1%%Vitamin%E%(for%extending%the%shelf%life%of%short%life%oils)%%Weigh%the%mango%butter,%other%butter,%and%oil%in%a%heat%proof%container%and%melt%slightly%in%a%double%boiler%or%microwave.%Remove%from%the%heat,%add%the%fragrance%oil%and%Vitamin%E%and%whip.%Whip%until%it%reaches%a%lovely%Cool%Whip%kind%of%consistency,%then%spoon%into%containers.%

WHIPPED&BUTTERS&FOR&VARIOUS&SKIN&TYPES&

Let's%take%a%look%at%what%combinations%we%could%create%with%our%new%knowledge%of%the%various%butters,%oils,%and%exotic%oils.%Whipped%butters%are%fairly%simple%to%make%and%we%don't%have%to%wait%for%them%to%set%overnight%before%using%them!%%Shea%butter%is%a%great%butter%for%whipping.%It%feels%very%smooth%on%your%skin,%but%is%kinda%greasy%to%some%people.%It%has%a%lot%of%phytosterols,%so%it%is%good%for%reducing%inflammation,%itching,%and%redness.%The%stearic%acid%offers%improved%moisture%retention,%increased%skin%flexibility,%and%skin%damage%repair.%The%oleic%acid%is%well%absorbed%by%our%skin,%offering%moisturizing%and%regenerating%to%skin,%and%antiKinflammatory%properties.%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 12*The%allantoin%acts%as%an%occlusive%ingredient,%offering%wound%healing%properties.%%What's%your%goal?%For%which%skin%type%are%you%formulating?%You've%already%seen%me%formulate%this%for%my%husband%K%60%%shea%butter,%10%%coconut%oil,%10%%sesame%seed%oil,%and%10%%evening%primrose%oil%K%with%the%goal%of%reducing%his%itchiness,%inflammation,%and%dry%skin.%%If%I%were%to%formulate%this%for%my%mother,%I%have%to%consider%what%her%skin%needs.%She%has%older%skin,%which%means%her%sebum%production%is%reduced%and%she%has%reduced%levels%of%linoleic%acid.%I%already%have%a%ton%of%oleic%acid%in%the%shea%butter,%so%I%want%to%consider%how%to%get%more%linoleic%acid%into%the%mix.%%Rice%bran%oil%offers%a%great%balance%of%oleic%and%linoleic%acids,%some%Vitamin%E,%and%a%ton%of%phytosterols.%It%also%offers%squalene%K%which%I%know%my%mother%likes%K%and%oryzanol,%a%polyphenol%that%offers%moisturizing,%softening,%and%antiKinflammation%properties.%I%know%she%likes%squalene,%which%offers%help%to%chapped%and%weather%damaged%skin,%and%increases%cell%regeneration.%%So%I%could%make%a%nice%whipped%butter%for%my%mom%with%80%%shea%butter,%18%%rice%bran%oil,%1%%fragrance%or%essential%oil,%and%1%%Vitamin%E.%(These%are%very%long%lived%oils%K%up%to%1%year%for%the%rice%bran%oil,%2%years%for%the%shea%butter%K%but%I%figure%a%little%Vitamin%E%won't%hurt!)%%If%I%were%to%formulate%this%for%me%for%the%winter%months,%I%have%to%include%something%to%help%with%dry,%weather%damaged%skin.%(I%tend%to%forget%my%coat%or%sweater%when%I%go%out%and%I'm%always%warm,%so%my%skin%is%constantly%assaulted%by%the%rain%and%snow%outside,%and%very%hot%buildings%inside!)%%I%am%sure%I%am%destroying%the%barrier%repair%abilities%of%my%skin%every%day,%so%I%need%a%barrier%ingredient.%Shea%is%already%a%good%barrier%ingredient,%so%that's%a%bonus.%I%am%going%to%include%2%%dimethicone%as%it%is%another%great%barrier%ingredient,%and%I%like%the%way%it%feels%on%my%skin.%Both%will%be%occlusive%to%protect%me%from%the%outside%world.%%I%need%something%to%help%my%skin%increase%its%barrier%repair%abilities%K%linoleic%acid%and%GLA%to%the%rescue!%I'm%thinking%something%like%borage%or%evening%primrose%oil%might%be%a%good%choice.%But%what%about%hempseed%oil?%It's%a%high%linoleic%acid%oil%with%about%5%%GLA,%and%it%contains%nice%levels%of%Vitamin%E.%Because%I'm%making%this%for%me,%I%can%put%a%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 13*"best%before"%date%on%it%and%know%I%will%actually%abide%by%it!%So%I%think%this%might%be%a%very%good%choice.%%Or%coconut%oil.%I%like%coconut%oil%in%a%whipped%butter,%and%the%ferulic%acid%and%catechins%offer%antiKinflammatory%and%antiKitching%properties.%(I'm%not%itching,%but%it%might%happen!)%Virgin%coconut%oil%might%be%a%great%addition%K%all%the%goodness%of%coconut%oil%with%more%polyphenols.%%I%think%I'll%go%with%70%%shea,%20%%coconut%oil,%8%%hemp%seed%oil,%1%%fragrance%oil,%and%1%%Vitamin%E.%(The%Vitamin%E%is%necessary%with%the%hemp%seed%oil).%I%could%also%use%80%%shea,%18%%evening%primrose%or%borage%oil,%1%%Vitamin%E,%and%1%%fragrance%oil%to%get%a%huge%amount%of%GLA%and%a%slightly%less%greasy%whipped%butter.%%If%you%have%someone%in%your%life%with%incredibly%dry%skin,%a%very%moisturizing,%greasy%whipped%butter%is%probably%the%best%choice.%You%might%want%to%consider%using%some%cocoa%butter%K%it%contains%25%to%30%%palmitic%acid,%which%is%a%great%occlusive%ingredient%K%or%2%%dimethicone%to%make%it%more%occlusive.%Shea%is%probably%the%better%choice%because%it%is%greasier%than%mango%butter.%%Squalane%might%be%a%great%addition%as%it%moisturizes%well%and%will%penetrate%skin,%but%it%can%get%a%little%pricey.%Soybean%oil%is%a%fantastic%moisturizer%filled%with%linoleic%acid%and%tons%of%phytosterols%and%Vitamin%E%for%moisturizing%and%antiKoxidizing%features.%Sunflower%or%sesame%might%be%a%great%addition%K%both%contain%nice%levels%of%linoleic%acid%with%both%having%nice%levels%of%Vitamin%E%and%really%great%levels%of%phytosterols.%%Consider%a%dry%skin%whipped%butter%with%80%%shea%butter,%and%19%%those%other%oils,%and%1%%Vitamin%E.%%If%you%have%someone%in%your%life%who%needs%a%whipped%butter%but%isn't%a%fan%of%greasy%feeling%products,%you%can%try%mango%butter%as%the%base.%It%is%an%astringent%oil,%so%it%will%feel%drier,%and%it%offers%many%of%the%same%benefits%as%shea%butter%with%some%great%polyphenols%and%tannins.%It%will%have%a%shelf%life%of%up%to%3%years,%but%the%oils%you%add%will%bring%that%best%before%date%down.%%Try%using%avocado%oil%and%mango%butter%together%for%a%dry%butter.%Or%if%you%want%more%linoleic%acid,%you%could%include%grapeseed%oil%(with%a%bold%reminder%about%the%best%before%date)%or%borage,%evening%primrose,%or%carrot%tissue%oil.%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 14*%You%can%add%3%%DryKFlo%to%your%creation%to%make%it%feel%less%greasy.%Add%slowly%into%anhydrous%applications%and%stir%until%well%blended.%It%is%okay%to%use%this%in%temperatures%up%to%70C.%Or%you%could%add%2%%IPM%to%reduce%the%greasiness.%Add%this%to%the%heated%phase.%You%can%use%one%or%the%other%or%both,%if%you%want.%

LESS&GREASY&WHIPPED&MANGO&BUTTER&

75%%mango%butter%18%%dry%feeling%oil%of%choice%K%perhaps%10%%carrier%oil,%8%%exotic%oil?%3%%DryKflo%2%%IPM%1%%Vitamin%E%1%%fragrance%or%essential%oil%%Heat%the%mango%butter,%oils,%and%IPM%until%the%creation%has%melted.%If%wanted,%add%the%DryKFlo%now.%Remove%from%the%heat,%add%the%Vitamin%E%and%fragrance%oil%and%mix.%If%you%want%it%whippy,%get%out%the%whisk%attachments%on%your%mixer%and%beat%until%stiffened.%This%could%take%a%while,%so%feel%free%to%whip%it%a%bit,%then%put%it%in%the%fridge%or%freezer%for%5%to%10%minutes,%then%whip%it%again.%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 15*RANCIDITY:,A,PRIMER,EEEK!%Rancidity!%The%curse%of%bath%and%body%formulators%everywhere!%Why%does%it%happen?%Heres%a%little%chemistry%for%you%%

Carbon%has%4%electrons%that%want%to%connect%with%other%atoms%(the%blue%dots).%Hydrogen%has%1%electron%that%wants%to%connect%with%other%atoms%(the%red%dots).%Atoms%really%like%to%have%8%electrons,%so%they%connect%with%other%atoms%to%make%up%8%electrons.%As%you%can%see%from%this%picture,%carbon%likes%to%be%surrounded%by%4%hydrogen%atoms%to%make%up%this%8%electron%configuration%(this%is%called%the%octet,rule).%Atoms%are%so%desperate%to%make%up%this%8%electron%configuration,%sometimes%

they%will%bond%doubly%or%triply%with%another%atom%to%get%to%that%number.%%%

In%the%case%of%a%double%bond%in%a%fatty%acid%%like%the%ones%we%find%in%oils%like%sunflower%or%grapeseed%oil%K%%the%carbon%doesn't%connect%with%a%hydrogen,%it%connects%with%another%carbon%in%a%double%bond,%leaving%the%hydrogen%out%in%the%cold.%Normally%when%we%look%at%a%fatty%acid%chain,%we%see%a%top%

row%of%hydrogen%atoms,%then%a%row%of%carbons,%then%a%row%of%hydrogens.%This%would%be%a%single%bonded%or%saturated%fatty%acid%because%there%are%double%bonds.%If%you%look%at%the%unsaturated%fatty%acid%chain,%there%are%missing%hydrogen%atoms%where%the%carbon%atoms%are%double%bonded!%This%is%the%double%bond,%and%it%is%easily%broken%so%something%else%can%get%in%that%place%of%the%missing%hydrogen.%%%The%main%destructors%of%our%oils%are%heat,%exposure%to%light,%exposure%to%air,%and%time.%In%lotions,%water%can%also%be%our%enemy.%%Heat%and%time%are%pretty%basic%concepts.%When%we%heat%anything,%the%chemical%process%speeds%up.%Let's%say%it%take%6%months%for%an%oil%to%go%rancid.%When%we%heat%it,%we%reduce%that%time%dramatically.%It%can%take%a%few%hours%instead%of%months!%%This%is%attributed%to%the%rate%of%reaction.%Every%chemical%reaction%has%a%rate%of%reaction,%which%is%determined%by%various%factors.%When%we%heat%up%a%chemical%reaction,%the%molecules%bounce%around%more,%which%increases%the%number%of%collisions%(this%is%called%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 16*collision,theory).%The%more%bouncing%molecules,%the%more%collisions,%the%faster%the%reaction.%So%when%we%heat%up%an%oil,%even%slightly,%we%increase%the%bouncing%around%of%the%molecules,%which%means%more%possibility%of%colliding%into%a%free%radical,%which%can%cause%oxidation.%Most%chemical%reactions%are%rated%at%SATP%K%standard%atmosphere%(1%atm,%or%sea%level)%and%temperature%(25C).%%And%time...well,%it's%the%enemy%of%all%things,%isn't%it?%Time%is%what%makes%our%oils%go%rancid,%even%if%we%have%stored%them%in%a%cool,%dark%place%with%a%wonderful%bottle%and%seal!%(Time%is%really%not%accurate%as%it%is%really%the%chemical%reaction%happening%over%time,%but%it%is%still%our%enemy!)%%If%heat%can%speed%up%a%chemical%reaction,%then,%logically,%cold%can%slow%down%a%chemical%reaction,%at%least%with%oils.%Hence%the%suggestion%to%keep%your%oils%in%a%cool,%dark%place%to%avoid%sunlight%and%heat!%%The%main%culprit%in%rancidity%is%the%free%radical.%A%free%radical%is%an%atom,%molecule,%or%ion%with%unpaired%electron.%As%you%might%remember,%atoms%really%like%to%have%8%electrons%and%will%do%just%about%anything%K%no%matter%how%foolhardy!%K%to%get%those%8%electrons.%So%they%are%highly%reactive,%looking%for%electrons%to%make%up%that%complete%valence%shell.%%The%free%radicals%that%we%worry%most%about%are%O2%(oxygen,%but%can%be%found%alone%in%O%form),%H2O2%(hydrogen%peroxide,%more%about%this%later),%and%OHK%(hydroxide).%When%these%free%radicals%are%involved%in%rancidity,%we%call%it%an%oxidative%process%(because%of%the%oxygen%atoms).%And%the%oxidative%process%is%pretty%much%the%main%cause%of%rancidity%(with%the%possible%exception%of%microbial%contamination).%%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 17*MECHANISMS,OF,RANCIDITY,There%are%different%ways%by%which%our%oils%can%become%rancid,%most%of%them%involving%oxygen.%I%know%we%need%it%to%live,%but%it's%such%a%nuisance!%%OXIDATIVE,RANCIDITY%The%double%bonds%of%the%fatty%acid%react%chemically%with%oxygen.%This%turns%the%fatty%acid%molecules%into%other%molecules%that%smell%awful!%This%can%be%a%result%of%photoKoxidation%or%autoKoxidation.%%PHOTOTOXIDATION%The%double%bond%interacts%with%a%singlet%oxygen%(O2),%which%is%produced%by%the%light.%It%is%highly%reactive%with%unsaturated%lipids.%The%process%is%even%quicker%when%you%introduce%sensitizers%like%chlorophyll%and%various%other%organic%substances%(like%blood,%bile,%and%riboflavin,%but%those%shouldn't%be%issues%for%lotion%makers%K%I%hope!)%%This%is%why%we%try%to%keep%our%oils%away%from%strong%light%K%bright%light%can%produce%more%oxygen%in%the%bottle,%which%can%increase%the%process%of%photoKoxidation.%This%is%a%much%faster%process%than%autoKoxidation.%Various%carotenoids%in%our%oils%can%slow%this%process%K%derivatives%of%lycopene,%like%lutein,%violaxanthin,%and%neoxanthin,%as%well%as%betaKcarotene%K%and%many%oils%contain%these%ingredients.%These%are%natural%antiKoxidants%found%in%our%oils,%and%most%of%them%contain%at%least%a%few%to%fight%rancidity!%%AUTOTOXIDATION%Even%in%the%absence%of%air,%we%find%oxygen.%Oh%oxygen,%you%are%so%necessary%but%so%annoying!%Through%the%breaking%of%the%double%bonds,%the%oxygens%helps%the%the%fatty%acids%break%down%into%hydrocarbons%(the%HKCKH%chains%you%see,%which%can%be%methane%K%1%carbon,%4%hydrogens%K%or%ethane%K%2%carbons,%6%hydrogens),%ketones,%aldehydes,%epoxides,%and%alcohols,%some%of%which%are%smelly%ingredients!%%This%process%is%a%slow%one%when%antiKoxidants%are%found%in%the%oils.%When%the%antiKoxidants%are%gone,%it's%a%really%fast%process%and%takes%very%little%time%at%all%if%the%oil%is%heated%as%well.%(Which%gives%you%a%good%reason%to%get%some%Vitamin%E%into%your%oils%when%you%get%them%from%the%supplier!)%%Metal%ions%in%the%water%at%low%levels%can%promote%autoKoxidation.%This%is%why%we%use%chelating%agents%(also%called%sequestering%agents)%like%citric%acid%and%EDTA%to%bind%the%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 18*metals%so%they%won't%be%a%nuisance%in%our%lotions.%(And%why%we%use%distilled%water%that%should%not%contain%these%metals!)%The%main%culprit%is%iron,%and%the%process%can%be%speeded%up%by%exposure%to%light.%%HYDROLYTIC,RANCIDITY%Hydrolysis%is%a%chemical%reaction%in%which%a%molecule%is%cleaved%into%two%parts%by%the%addition%of%a%water%molecule%("hydro"%is%water,%"lysis"%is%splitting").%The%fatty%acids%are%split%away%from%the%glycerol%backbone,%and%the%water%is%split%into%H%(hydrogen)%or%OH%(hydroxide)%ions.%When%this%happens,%our%lovely%fatty%acid%molecules%are%morphed%into%a%new%molecule%and%we%have%rancidity.%%Interestingly%enough,%this%process%K%the%hydrolysis,%not%the%rancidity%part%K%is%saponification%or%soap%making.%Saponification%is%the%hydrolysis%of%a%fat%and%an%aqueous%base%like%sodium%hydroxide%or%potassium%hydroxide.%Glycerol%(or%glycerine)%is%formed%as%the%fatty%acids%are%removed%from%the%triglyceride%form%and%converted%into%salts!%So%hydrolysis%can%be%a%benefit%for%soap%makers%and%a%bane%to%lotion%makers!%%MICROBIAL,RANCIDITY%Yes,%our%little%beastie%friends%can%cause%rancidity%in%our%lotions!%(Which%is%why%you%must%ALWAYS%use%a%preservative!)%Microorganisms%use%their%little%enzymes%(usually%lipases)%to%break%down%the%chemical%structure%in%the%fat.%Which,%again,%results%in%rancidity.%%AntiKoxidants%can%stave%off%rancidity%in%our%oils,%giving%them%a%longer%shelf%life%in%our%products.%Nothing%can%make%the%possibility%of%rancidity%go%away%completely,%but%antiKoxidants%are%huge%weapons%in%our%fight%on%ickiness!%%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 19*ANTITOXIDANTS,AND,OUR,OILS,Free%radicals%are%constantly%running%around%in%our%lotions,%seeking%out%electrons%to%fill%its%valence%shell.%When%we%add%an%antiKoxidant,%we%provide%that%free%radical%with%those%electrons.%The%radical%is%content%with%its%electron%shell%and%bothers%us%no%more!%How%awesome%is%that?%%VITAMIN,E%is%one%of%the%main%lipophilic%antiKoxidants%you'll%find%for%bath%and%body%products,%and%it's%the%most%commonly%used%by%homecrafters.%It%comes%in%four%varieties%of%tocopherols%and%four%varieties%of%tocotrienols.%We%will%be%focusing%mainly%on%the%alpha%tocopherol,%which%is%the%one%you're%most%likely%to%see%in%suppliers'%shops.%%Vitamin%E%is%found%in%our%stratum%corneum%and%is%secreted%by%our%sebaceous%glands%to%the%surface%of%our%skin.%Studies%have%demonstrated%K%at%least%on%lab%rodents%K%that%it%sinks%readily%into%our%skin%and%can%inhibit%lipid%peroxidation,%which%is%like%oxidiation%of%the%oils%on%our%skin!%It%has%also%been%shown%to%reduce%sunburn%irritation%in%mice%(which%just%shows%you%albino%creatures%and%sunlight%don't%mix!).%%The%interesting%thing%about%Vitamin%E%is%it%can%lose%its%antiKoxidating%power,%so%it's%unable%to%contribute%an%electron%to%the%free%radical.%But%in%an%exciting%redox%process,%it%gets%its%electron%back,%so%the%cycle%continues%again.%Ah,%you%have%to%love%chemistry!%%You%can%use%it%at%rates%as%low%as%0.01%to%0.05%%in%your%creations%or%oils.%I%like%to%use%it%at%1%%because%it%has%such%wonderful%qualities%for%skin,%but%you%can%use%lower%amounts.%%VITAMIN,C,%or%ascorbic%acid,%is%one%of%the%most%common%water%soluble%antiKoxidants.%It's%present%in%high%amounts%in%our%skin,%and%it%can%chase%away%scurvy%(arrr,%be%gone%scurvy!).%Unfortunately,%it's%not%very%stable%and%can%be%esterified%with%phosphates.%For%our%purposes,%it%works%well%with%iron%found%in%our%water,%specifically%converting%Fe(III)%to%Fe(II).%We%cant%use%Vitamin%C%in%our%anhydrous%products%as%an%antiKoxidant,%but%I%mention%it%here%for%future%reference.%%%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 20*%

LOTION,BARS,Consider%the%lotion,bar.%Easy%to%make,%easy%to%tweak,%and%easy%to%carry%around%in%your%purse%or%pocket.%We%can%make%them%as%simple%or%as%complicated%as%we%wish.%We%can%wrap%them%in%foil%or%cellophane,%package%them%in%adorable%tins,%or%put%them%in%lip%balm%or%deodorant%containers.%I%love%lotion%bars%for%the%summer%months%K%take%them%to%the%

beach%or%camping%in%a%twist%up%container,%and%you've%got%a%great%lotion%that%won't%accidentally%get%squished%or%get%all%over%the%place!%%This,recipe,is,rated,E,for,everyone,,but,is,especially,great,for,beginners,,those,who,don't,wish,to,use,preservatives,,or,those,who,are,seeking,an,all,natural,product.,The,shelf,life,of,this,product,is,dependent,upon,the,shelf,life,of,your,oil.%%For%this%recipe%you%will%require%a%mould%of%some%sort%or%some%lip%balm%tubes,%lip%balm%pots,%slider%tins,%or%deodorant%containers.%(These%must%be%new%and%clean.%Please%do%not%reKuse%containers%for%these%types%of%projects.)%

BASIC&LOTION&BAR&RECIPE& &

33%%beeswax%33%%hard%butter%34%%liquid%oils%

MODIFIED&LOTION&BAR&RECIPE&WITH&VITAMIN&E&AND&SCENT&

32%%beeswax%33%%hard%butter%33%%liquid%oils%1%%fragrance%or%essential%oil%1%%Vitamin%E%%Weigh%the%beeswax,%hard%butter,%and%liquid%oils%into%a%heatproof%container%and%place%into%your%double%boiler.%Heat%until%the%solids%have%melted.%Remove%from%the%heat%and%add%the%Vitamin%E%and%fragrance%or%essential%oils%(optional).%Mix%well,%then%pour%into%your%mould%or%container%and%let%sit%until%hardened.%You%can%move%the%mould%carefully%to%the%fridge%or%freezer%and%let%set.%%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 21*If%you%are%using%a%lip%balm%or%deodorant%type%container,%make%sure%it%is%twisted%all%the%way%down%so%you%are%getting%maximum%depth%in%the%container.%You%may%get%the%dent%you%see%in%the%picture%K%you%can%add%more%to%the%container%as%the%lotion%bar%hardens%to%avoid%the%dent%(my%dent%is%really%enhanced%by%the%fact%that%when%I%made%this%lip%balm%I%moved%it%and%slopped%the%mixture%everywhere%K%try%not%to%move%your%mould%or%container%too%much%once%you've%poured%it!).%%

As%a%note,%if%you%are%making%lotion%bars%in%lip%balm%containers,%a%100%gram%batch%will%make%about%10%or%more,%depending%upon%the%size%of%your%container.%Feel%free%to%modify%this%recipe%to%be%1/3%of%the%original%recipe%K%say%10%grams%of%beeswax,%10%grams%of%your%butter,%10%grams%of%your%liquid%oil,%with%0.3%grams%fragrance%oil%or%about%0.3%to%0.4%ml%or%so.%This%is%a%good%batch%size%to%try,%especially%if%you're%using%some%exotic%oils%like%babassu%or%evening%primrose%oil%and%don't%have%a%large%amount%with%which%to%

experiment!%%The#lip#balm#containers#I#buy#tend#to#be#7.5#ml.#If#I#make#a#100#gram#lotion#bar#recipe,#I#generally#end#up#with#something#like#90#ml#to#100#ml#of#oils,#which#will#make#10#to#13#lip#bam#tubes!#If#you#don't#want#that#much,#then#you'll#want#to#reduce#the#recipe#amount!#%%Lotion%bar%recipes%refrigerate%and%freeze%very%well,%so%they%store%well%if%you%make%too%much%or%get%interrupted%when%you're%in%creation%mode!%You%can%store%them%in%a%container,%or%pour%them%into%a%mould%and%unmould%them%into%a%freezer%appropriate%bag.%Make%sure%you%label%them%well!%%I#hate#looking#into#the#fridge#or#freezer#and#asking#myself,#"Lotion#bar,#scrub#bar#base,#lip#balm?"#and#then#having#to#throw#the#container#away#when#I#have#no#idea!#Hey,#there's#an#idea#for#a#game#show!%%As%with%the%whipped%butters,%you%can%make%huge%modifications%to%your%bar%based%upon%the%type%of%butter%and%oil%you%choose.%If%you%choose%something%like%cocoa%butter,%you'll%have%a%harder%bar.%Choose%something%like%shea%butter,%and%you'll%have%a%softer%bar.%%Lotion%bars%are%difficult%to%mess%up%K%if%you%don't%like%the%way%they%feel,%just%melt%them%down%again,%add%a%little%more%of%something,%then%reKmould.%If%you%find%they%are%too%hard,%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 22*add%a%little%more%oil%or%butter.%If%they%are%too%soft,%add%a%little%more%beeswax.%If%they%are%not%fragrant%enough,%add%a%little%more%scent.%If%you%have%fragranced%the%bar,%you%might%want%to%melt%them%lightly%as%the%fragrance%can%be%heat%sensitive!%

MODIFYING&THE&WAXES&IN&THE&LOTION&BAR&

You%can%change%the%skin%feel,%melting%point,%and%hardness%of%a%bar%by%playing%with%the%wax%type%and%amount%without%changing%the%type%of%butters%or%oils.%%Although%the%basic%recipe%is%1/3%beeswax,%1/3%butter,%and%1/3%oil,%playing%with%those%amounts%can%result%in%softer%or%harder%bars.%If%you%reduce%the%wax,%you'll%get%a%softer%bar%K%increase%the%wax,%you'll%get%a%harder%bar.%%How%much%wax%you'll%use%depends%upon%the%type%of%butter%you're%using%as%your%primary%butter.%If%you're%using%a%hard%butter%like%sal,%kokum,%or%cocoa%butter,%using%20%%to%25%%beeswax%should%give%you%a%decently%hard%bar.%If%you're%using%a%softer%butter%like%mango%or%shea%butter,%25%%to%30%%is%a%good%amount.%If%you're%using%something%like%babassu%or%aloe%butter,%33%%or%higher%will%be%necessary%as%these%are%really%soft%butters.%%As#a#note,#I#would#use#babassu#as#if#it#were#an#oil#because#of#its#low#melting#point#on#skin,#which#means#it#will#melt#into#nothing#in#the#summer#heat#(check#out#the#containers#filled#with#liquid#in#my#workshop!).#And#with#something#like#aloe#butter,#how#you#use#it#depends#upon#what#it#is#combined#with#to#make#it#a#butter.#If#you#have#sheaMaloe,#think#of#it#as#shea#butter.#If#you#have#an#aloe#butter#in#coconut#oil,#think#of#it#as#coconut#oil#and#use#it#more#as#an#oil#than#a#butter.##%%It's%also%important%to%consider%the%season.%Increasing%the%beeswax%amount%will%increase%the%melting%point%of%your%bar.%Using%33%%beeswax%during%the%summer%will%result%in%a%bar%that%will%withstand%a%trip%to%the%beach%or%storage%in%your%purse.%%And%consider%the%skin%feel.%A%33%%beeswax%bar%will%feel%a%lot%more%draggy%on%your%skin%than%a%bar%with%25%%or%30%.%If%you've%created%a%33%%beeswax%bar%and%you%feel%like%you%have%to%put%a%ton%of%work%into%the%application,%you%might%want%to%consider%reducing%it%and%increasing%your%oils.%%Here's%an%example%of%a%babassu,%kokum%and%beeswax%bar%I%made%recently.%Babassu%is%an%amazing%oil%K%it%melts%on%contact%with%your%skin%and%feels%incredibly%decadent!%K%and%I%made%up%a%1/3%each%beeswax,%kokum,%and%babassu%bar.%But%it%was%really%draggy%and%the%babassu%didn't%melt%nicely,%it%felt%like%I%had%wasted%an%amazing%ingredient.%So%I%reKmelted%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 23*it%and%tried%again.%%

BABASSU,&KOKUM&&&BEESWAX&LOTION&BAR&

47%%babassu%oil%25%%kokum%butter%25%%beeswax%2%%fragrance%oil%1%%Vitamin%E%%

As%a%note,%I%really%don't%need%the%Vitamin%E%for%longevity%of%these%oils%as%they%have%really%long%shelf%lives,%but%I%like%what%Vitamin%E%can%offer%to%my%skin.%This%feels%much%nicer%and%is%still%quite%hard%in%the%container.%%If%you%want%to%make%a%vegan%product,%there%are%other%waxes%you%can%try%in%a%lotion%bar%K%click%here%for%a%post%on%waxes%K%but%you%might%not%be%using%the%standard%33%.%The%rule%of%thumb%when%using%something%like%candelilla,wax%is%to%use%about%half%the%amount%of%beeswax.%So%the%basic%lotion%bar%might%look%something%like%this%depending%upon%the%type%of%butter%you%choose.%

BASIC&LOTION&BAR&WITH&CANDELILLA&WAX&

16%%candelilla%41%%butter%41%%oil%1%%Vitamin%E%(optional)%1%%fragrance%or%essential%oil%%Or%consider%using%soy,wax.%It%is%a%little%softer%than%beeswax,%so%it%will%not%stiffen%your%bar%as%much.%Consider%starting%at%33%%soy%wax%with%

all%the%butters%and%oils,%but%you'll%want%to%play%around%to%find%the%perfect%consistency.%

BASIC&LOTION&BAR&WITH&SOY&WAX&

32%%soy%wax%33%%butter%33%%oil%1%%Vitamin%E%(optional)%1%%fragrance%or%essential%oil%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 24*MODIFYING&THE&OILS&AND&BUTTERS&IN&A&LOTION&BAR&

I%could%probably%start%a%blog%called%"modifying%your%oils%and%butters%for%lotion%bars"%and%write%posts%every%single%day%for%a%year%going%over%every%single%possible%combination%K%but%since%I%already%have%a%blog%that%I%enjoy%writing%and%since%the%whole%point%of%this%series%of%back%to%basics%is%to%encourage%experimentation,%I'll%offer%a%few%suggestions%based%on%what%I've%tried.%%

One%of%my%favourite%combinations%is%mango%butter%with%rice%bran%oil.%It%has%a%nice%combination%of%the%dryness%of%the%mango%butter%with%the%slipperiness%of%the%rice%bran%oil.%%Although%you%can%go%with%the%1/3%of%each%

ingredient%in%this%recipe,%I%prefer%this%recipe...%

MANGO&BUTTER&LOTION&BAR&

28%%beeswax%30%%mango%butter%40%%oils%(I%do%like%20%%sunflower%oil%with%20%%rice%bran%oil,%but%you%can%use%all%of%1%oil)%1%%Vitamin%E%1%%fragrance%or%essential%oil%%Even%though%my%rice%bran%oil%is%a%slightly%brownish%colour,%my%mango%butterKrice%bran%oil%lotion%bar%turns%out%off%white.%I'm%using%white%beeswax%in%this%recipe%because%that's%what%I%have%in%the%workshop.%If%you%were%to%use%a%yellow%beeswax%or%another%type%of%wax,%it%might%take%on%that%colour%(more%about%this%below).%%Remember#that#your#lotion#bar#will#take#on#the#colours#of#the#ingredients.#I#am#currently#using#white#beeswax#because#that's#what#I#have#in#the#workshop.#If#I#were#to#use#yellow#beeswax,#this#bar#would#take#on#a#more#yellowish#cast#thanks#to#the#slightly#brown#colour#of#the#rice#bran#oil#and#the#yellow#beeswax.%%As%you%choose%your%butters%and%oils,%remember%to%consider%what%oils%and%butters%you%have%in%the%workshop%and%what%each%brings%to%the%party.%Consider%the%skin%feel,%the%weight%of%the%oils%and%butters,%the%shelf%life,%and%the%properties%of%each%oil%before%creating%your%recipe.%And%remember%you%can%adjust%the%wax%to%reflect%the%hardness%of%your%butters.%%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 25*Never%underestimate%the%effect%of%your%oils%and%butters%on%a%lotion%bar.%You%can%create%vastly%different%products%when%you%tweak%the%oils.%For%instance,%using%cocoa%butter%with%avocado%oil%(25%%beeswax)%will%create%a%hard,%slightly%dry%bar%perfect%for%your%feet,%whereas%using%shea%butter%with%fractionated%coconut%oil%(30%%beeswax)%will%product%a%softer,%greasier%but%lighter%feeling%bar%perfect%for%your%body%skin.%If%you%choose%mango%butter%with%hazelnut%you'll%produce%a%drier%bar%than%you%would%if%you%paired%mango%butter%with%soy%bean%oil.%%If%you%wanted%to%create%a%massage%bar,%you'll%want%to%choose%a%butter%that%creates%a%hard%bar%that%melts%around%our%body%temperature,%so%cocoa%butter%should%be%your%first%choice.%You%won't%want%33%%beeswax%because%this%doesn't%melt%at%body%temperature,%so%you'll%want%to%reduce%that%to%25%%for%two%reasons%K%because%the%cocoa%butter%is%hard%and%so%the%bar%will%melt%at%body%temperature.%You'll%want%to%choose%some%slippery%oils%that%won't%stain%sheets%or%fabric%K%sesame%oil%or%fractionated%coconut%oil%tend%to%be%the%oils%of%choice%here.%Some%people%choose%a%lip%balm%flavour%oil%at%up%to%3%%instead%of%a%fragrance%oil%for%this%application%K%for%obvious%reasons%I%won't%go%into%here%K%but%you%might%need%to%sweeten%it%yourself.%And%make%it%a%decent%size%K%a%10%gram%bar%will%get%annoying%for%this%application.%%

MASSAGE&BAR&WITH&COCOA&BUTTER&&

25%%beeswax%35%%cocoa%butter%39%%sesame%or%fractionated%coconut%oil%1%%fragrance%oil%or%3%%flavour%oil%%When%you're%tweaking%the%bars,%remember%you%can%use%any%combination%of%oil%soluble%ingredients%K%not%just%butters%and%oils,%but%silicones,%esters,%fatty%alcohols,%fatty%acids,%oil%soluble%extracts,%and%essential%oils.%Heres%an%example%of%a%bar%modified%to%include%some%oil%soluble%ingredients%designed%to%increase%the%glide%and%reduce%the%feeling%of%greasiness%through%the%use%of%isopropyl%myristate%(IPM).%%

SWIFTS&FAVOURITE&LOTION&BAR&RECIPE&

28%%beeswax%10%%sesame%oil%%25%%rice%bran%oil%3%%sunflower%oil%30%%mango%butter%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 26*2%%IPM%2%%cyclomethicone%2%%vitamin%E%1%%FO%%Melt%all%but%the%cyclomethicone%and%fragrance%oil%in%a%heat%proof%container%in%your%double%boiler.%When%all%the%ingredients%have%melted,%add%the%cyclomethicone%and%fragrance%oil,%then%pour%into%a%mold%or%twist%up%deodorant%container.%Let%set.%Use!%%This%is%a%bar%intended%to%start%melting%at%your%body%temperature,%that's%why%I%used%all%mango%butter.%It%is%very%melty.%If%you%want%something%less%melty,%then%try%cocoa%or%kokum%or%another%very%hard%butter.%

FORMULATING&A&FACIAL&LOTION&BAR&

Okay,%so%you're%going%skiing%(or%you're%running%for%the%bus%in%Calgary!)%You%want%something%heavy%duty%to%protect%your%skin%from%the%elements.%What%might%you%choose%for%a%heavy%duty%winter%facial%lotion%bar?%%What%are%we%looking%for%in%this%product?%In%a%lot%of%ways,%a%lotion%

bar%for%the%face%is%just%a%serum%in%stick%format%(click%to%see%the%dry%skin%serum%or%oily%skin%serum).%We%want%something%that%is%easy%to%use%and%won't%make%us%break%out.%We%want%ingredients%that%will%protect%our%skin%from%the%elements,%reduce%redness%and%inflammation,%increase%moisturization,%and%help%with%weather%induced%skin%damage,%specifically%wind%and%cold%chapping.%And%we%want%something%light%K%we%don't%want%serious%greasiness%on%our%faces.%%What%are%our%goals%for%this%product?%

o Low%comedogenicity%o Protection%from%the%elements%(occlusion)%o Repair%of%weather%induced%damage%o Reduction%of%redness%and%inflammation%o Not%too%greasy%feeling%

%It%is%hard%to%find%a%butter%for%a%lotion%bar%for%the%face.%Cocoa%butter%is%occlusive,%but%it%has%a%potential%comedogenicity%rating%of%4%(very%high).%Some%people%can%be%highly%sensitive%to%shea%butter%and%others%love%it.%Mango%butter%is%astringent,%which%is%a%good%thing,%and%its%comedogenicity%rating%is%low.%The%tannins%in%the%mango%butter%will%make%it%feel%drier%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 27*on%our%skin,%mangiferin%is%a%great%antiKoxidant%and%antiKinflammatory%ingredient,%and%caffeic%acid%is%one%of%the%strongest%antiKoxidants%available%to%us%as%well%as%being%antiKinflammatory.%%So%this%looks%like%the%right%butter%for%this%project.%(You%could%also%try%aloe%butter,%which%is%generally%a%blend%of%shea%butter%and%aloe%or%coconut%oil%and%aloe.%Coconut%oil%is%very%comedogenic,%so%that%might%not%be%a%good%choice.)%%During%the%winter%we%want%higher%levels%of%linoleic%and%GLA%acids%and%lower%levels%of%oleic%acid.%So%we'll%want%to%choose%an%oil%with%very%high%levels%of%linoleic%acid%K%grapeseed,%hempseed,%soybean,%sunflower,%or%wheat%germ%oil.%%Hempseed%has%lots%of%linoleic%acid%and%contains%about%5%%GLA,%but%it%has%a%very%short%shelf%life.%Grapeseed%also%has%a%lot,%but%the%shelf%life%is%very%short%as%well.%So%let's%take%a%look%at%the%other%oils.%%Wheat%germ%oil%has%a%longer%shelf%life%K%6%months,%and%does%contain%2540%ppm%Vitamin%E,%the%highest%of%all%the%carrier%oils.%It%contains%squalene,%which%offers%support%to%weather%damaged%skin%and%regenerates%cells.%It%has%a%high%level%of%phytosterols%K%about%5%%of%the%oil%K%so%you'll%get%that%great%antiKinflammatory,%antiKreddening,%and%antiKitching%properties.%Seems%like%a%good%choice%K%but%it's%a%FIVE%on%the%comedogenicity%scale%and%can%be%irritating%to%some%people.%%Sunflower%oil%has%a%longer%shelf%life%K%6%months%K%and%has%lots%of%linoleic%acid%to%help%with%skin%barrier%repair%and%increase%in%water%retention.%It%has%lots%of%Vitamin%E%K%500%to%1500%ppm%K%and%a%lot%of%phytosterols%that%will%help%with%antiKinflammatory%and%antiKitching%properties.%The%caffeic%acid%is%also%a%very%powerful%antiKoxidant.%It%is%considered%nonKcomedogenic.%%Soybean%oil%has%the%longest%shelf%life%K%1%year%K%and,%again,%has%a%lot%of%linoleic%acid%for%our%skin.%It%contains%about%700%ppm%Vitamin%E,%and%some%great%phytosterols%at%about%the%same%level%as%sunflower%oil.%It%does%contain%some%nice%polyphenols%for%antiKoxiding%and%free%radical%scavenging%properties.%It%is%about%a%3%on%the%comedgenicity%scale.%%Fractionated%coconut%oil%has%a%very%long%shelf%life%K%2%years%K%and%it%is%very%moisturizing%and%softening.%It%is%considered%a%2%on%the%comedogenicity%scale,%but%that%is%likely%inaccurate%as%it%is%considered%"oil%free".%It%doesn't%have%all%the%lovely%polyphenols%and%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 28*phytosterols%and%tocopherols,%but%it%is%moisturizing%and%light.%We%can%always%make%up%those%things%in%our%butter%or%exotic%oil.%%You%know,%I%always%forget%about%squalane%for%the%face.%It%penetrates%the%skin%quickly,%offering%moisturizing%and%softening%to%all%skin%types,%but%is%especially%good%for%really%chapped%or%cracked%skin.%This%would%be%a%great%choice%for%a%facial%product!%%If%you're%like%me%and%you%have%very%sensitive%skin,%sunflower%oil,%fractionated%coconut%oil,%and%squalane%is%probably%the%best%way%to%go.%If%you%don't%or%you%don't%mind%the%shorter%shelf%lives,%then%these%are%all%good%choices.%%Borage%oil%is%always%a%good%choice%for%winter%facial%products%thanks%to%the%abundance%of%GLA,%and%the%ferulic%acid%that%soothes%and%moisturizes%skin,%repairs%light%and%weather%induced%skin%damage,%and%reduces%itching%and%inflammation.%It's%not%really%high%in%Vitamin%E,%but%we%have%some%from%the%sunflower%oil,%so%400%ppm%is%not%bad.%It's%a%dry%feeling%oil,%so%it%will%help%temper%the%oiliness%of%the%sunflower%oil.%%Evening%primrose%would%be%nice%for%all%that%GLA%as%well%as%the%gallic%acid%that%is%a%wound%and%burn%healer.%It's%a%dry%oil,%but%can%product%breakouts%in%some%people,%so%it's%not%necessarily%the%best%choice.%%Pomegranate%oil%is%a%dry,%light%oil%containing%punicic%acid%that%can%help%repair%sun%or%weather%damaged%skin.%The%phytosterols%are%high,%so%they%will%help%with%the%inflammation%and%itching%that%occurs%in%winter.%The%gallic%acid%is%a%wound%and%burn%healer.%%Rosehip%oil%would%be%a%good%choice%as%a%dry,%light%oil%with%a%ton%of%carotenoids%to%offer%antiKoxidizing%properties.%It%can%help%with%UV%damaged%skin%and%increased%skin%barrier%repair.%But%it's%considered%irritating%to%sensitive%skin,%and%can%aggravate%acne.%%Sea%buckthorn%might%be%an%awesome%choice,%although%it's%kinda%low%in%linoleic%acid%at%only%12%.%It%does%contain%a%ton%of%Vitamin%E,%though,%and%lots%of%phytosterols%to%act%as%an%antiKinflammatory%to%help%with%itching%and%redness.%Palmitoleic%acid%does%help%heal%wounds%and%scratches,%which%is%a%good%thing.%%Since%I%think%I'll%go%with%the%fractionated%coconut%oil,%I%have%to%make%up%all%the%goodies%in%the%exotic%oil%and%butter.%Mango%butter%offers%a%lot%of%antiKoxidants,%but%no%linoleic%acid.%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 29*The%fractionated%coconut%oil%also%offers%no%linoleic%acid.%If%I%choose%sea%buckthorn%at%10%,%then%borage%oil%at%10%,%I%will%get%a%nice%combination%of%GLA,%linoleic,%and%palmitoleic%acids%with%high%phytosterols%and%Vitamin%E.%As%for%occlusion,%I%am%getting%it%from%the%mango%butter%K%not%the%highest%occlusive%ingredient,%but%enough%for%a%facial%application.%

RECIPE&FOR&A&FACIAL&LOTION&BAR&

28%%beeswax%33%%mango%butter%10%%borage%oil%10%%sea%buckthorn%oil%18%%fractionated%coconut%oil%1%%essential%oil%%I%have%reduced%the%beeswax%as%I%find%it%too%draggy%for%my%facial%skin,%so%I'll%reduce%it.%I'd%suggest%putting%this%into%a%deodorant%tube%so%you%can%apply%it%easily%when%you're%outdoors!%%

FORMULATING&A&FOOT&CARE&LOTION&BAR&

Let's%say%you%want%to%create%something%for%your%very%dry%feet.%You've%been%walking%around%this%summer%on%sand%and%concrete.%They%are%chapped,%calloused,%and%very%very%dry.%Start%by%choosing%your%butter...%%

Cocoa%butter%is%the%hardest%butter,%so%a%lotion%bar%with%this%butter%will%be%very%hard.%It%is%approved%by%the%FDA%as%an%occlusive%ingredient.%

Shea%butter%is%a%medium%butter,%so%it%will%be%less%hard%than%a%cocoa%butter%bar.%It%contains%allantoin,%approved%as%an%occlusive%ingredient,%and%cinnamic%acid%esters,%which%can%reduce%redness%and%irritation,%and%behave%as%a%sunscreen.%

Mango%butter%is%a%medium%hardness%butter,%so%it%will%be%less%hard%than%a%cocoa%butter%bar.%It%contains%mangiferin,%which%is%a%great%antiKoxidant,%antiKfungal,%and%antiKinflammatory%ingredient.%Caffeic%acid%is%one%of%the%strongest%antiKoxidants%available%in%oils%and%butter,%and%reduces%redness.%It%is%a%dry%feeling%butter.%

%

Let's%choose%shea%butter%as%our%primary%butter.%Yes,%it's%greasy%feeling,%but%we%don't%really%mind%that%on%our%elbows%or%feet.%(If%you%have%issues%with%greasiness,%then%try%mango%or%cocoa%butter.%Avocado%butter%K%which%I%haven't%really%discussed%K%is%very%dry!)%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 30*%What%are%our%goals?%%

o Softening%K%vitamin%E%and%oleic%acid%o Moisturizing%K%oleic%acid,%o Skin%barrier%repair%K%linoleic%acid,%GLA,%o Water%retention%K%linoleic%acid,%GLA%o Reduce%itching%K%phytosterols,%oleic%acid%

%The%shea%butter%will%offer%softening%and%moisturizing%and%could%heal%wounds%through%the%allantoin%contained%in%the%butter.%We%could%choose%an%oil%like%sesame%oil%that%has%a%lot%of%Vitamin%E%(up%to%1095%ppm)%or%rice%bran%oil%(400%ppm),%both%of%which%have%a%nice%balance%of%oleic%and%linoleic%fatty%acids.%Linoleic%acid%will%help%restore%our%skin's%barrier%function%and%reduce%itchiness.%Oleic%acid%is%very%moisturizing%and%regenerating%to%skin%cells.%It%is%also%considered%an%antiKinflammatory%and%sinks%into%skin%well.%%Rice%bran%oil%contains%oryzanol,%which%offers%moisturizing,%softening,%and%antiKinflammatory%properties.%It%also%contains%squalene,%which%is%great%for%moisturizing%and%softening.%%Sesame%oil%is%incredibly%high%in%phytosterols,%which%behave%like%cortisone,%offering%antiKinflammatory%features%with%a%reduction%in%redness%and%itching.%Plus%it%has%the%added%bonus%of%not%staining%fabric%or%sheets,%so%if%you%want%to%go%sockless,%you%won't%ruin%your%good%linens!%%So%which%do%I%choose?%But%wait!%Do%we%have%any%exotic%oils%we%could%add%that%would%fulfill%some%of%the%features?%%Borage%oil%is%very%high%in%GLA,%and%it%will%help%with%an%increase%in%skin%hydration%and%skin%flexibility,%as%well%as%reducing%redness.%The%ferulic%acid%soothes%and%moisturizes%skin,%as%well%as%reducing%itching%and%inflammation.%It%contains%about%400%ppm%Vitamin%E,%which%is%nice,%and%a%goodly%amount%of%Ksitosterol,%which%will%reduce%redness%and%provide%antiKinflammatory%properties.%It%contains%ellagic%acid,%which%can%increase%the%regeneration%of%skin%cells%and%thicken%the%skin.%It%is%a%dry%feeling%oil.%%Evening%primrose%is%also%high%in%GLA,%so%it%will%help%increase%skin%hydration%and%flexibility,%as%well%as%reducing%redness.%It%doesn't%contain%a%lot%of%Vitamin%E%K%221%ppm%K%but%the%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 31*gallic%acid%has%been%demonstrated%to%be%a%wound%healer,%so%it%will%help%with%cracks%and%scrapes%on%your%skin.%It%also%has%a%nice%amount%of%phytosterols%to%help%provide%antiKinflammatory%properties.%It%is%a%dry%feeling%oil.%%Pomegranate%oil%is%interesting%in%that%is%filled%with%punicic%acid,%which%offers%cell%regenerating,%antiKinflammatory%properties.%It%can%help%repair%sun%or%weather%damaged%skin.%Ellagic%acid%can%increase%the%regeneration%of%skin%cells%and%thicken%the%skin.%And%the%gallic%acid%is%a%wound%and%burn%healer.%The%phytosterols%are%very%high,%so%you%will%get%more%antiKinflammatory%properties%as%well%as%more%properties%to%reduce%redness%or%itchiness.%%So%which%one%to%choose?%Since%I'm%only%using%10%grams%of%oil%of%exotic%oils,%cost%isn't%a%huge%concern.%If%I%consider%what's%in%my%workshop,%I'd%go%with%sesame%seed%oil%at%23%%K%high%in%Vitamin%E%and%phytosterols%K%and%borage%oil%at%10%%K%GLA,%ferulic%acid,%and%ellagic%acid.%The%shea%butter,%Vitamin%E,%and%oleic%fatty%acids%will%soften%my%skin;%the%GLA%will%ensure%my%skin's%barrier%repair%features%are%restored;%and%the%phytosterols%will%make%my%skin%feel%less%itchy%and%red;%and%the%polyphenols%will%help%thicken%the%skin%on%my%feet.%

SUMMER&TIME&FOOT&CARE&LOTION&BAR&

23%%sesame%oil%10%%borage%oil%33%%beeswax%33%%shea%butter%1%%fragrance%or%essential%oil%%

Weight%all%the%ingredients%except%for%the%fragrance%or%essential%oil%into%a%heatproof%container%and%place%in%a%double%boiler%until%all%the%ingredients%have%melted.%Remove%from%the%heat,%add%the%fragrance%or%essential%oil,%and%mix%well.%Pour%into%your%container%or%mould%and%put%in%the%fridge%or%freezer%to%set.%(You%dont%need%to%put%your%containers%into%a%cooler%place,%but%they%will%set%quicker%if%you%do!)%%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 32*SOLID&PERFUME& &

Solid%perfume%is%a%great%way%to%carry%your%favourite%scent%with%you%in%an%easy,%nonKspill%container.%You%can%put%this%recipe%into%a%small%pot%or%a%lip%balm%tube,%and%use%it%whenever%you%need%a%fragrant%pick%me%up!%This%is%intended%to%be%solid%but%will%melt%at%body%temperature.%We're%using%ingredients%that%have%very%little%scent%of%their%own.%

SOLID&PERFUME&RECIPE& &

20%%beeswax%(use%refined%for%extra%nonKsmelliness)%30%%shea%or%cocoa%butter%(or%a%combination%of%the%two%K%both%refined%and%deodorized)%39%%liquid%oils%(fractionated%coconut%or%shea%oil%are%great%choices)%10%%fragrance%oil%1%%Vitamin%E%%If%you%use%only%shea%butter,%you'll%want%to%put%this%into%a%pot%as%it%will%be%soft.%Using%15%%cocoa%butter%or%all%cocoa%butter%will%make%this%hard%enough%to%put%in%a%lip%balm%tube.%%Melt%everything,%except%the%fragrance%oil,%in%a%double%boiler%until%the%ingredients%are%liquid.%Remove%from%the%heat%and%add%the%fragrance%oil.%Pour%into%a%lip%balm%pot%or%lip%balm%tube%and%let%set.%Give%it%a%funky%name%that's%all%your%own,%and%you%have%a%solid%perfume!%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 33*LOTION&BAR&WRAP

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 34*BALMS,What%exactly%is%a%balm?%It%is%a%"medicated%topical%preparation%for%application%to%the%skin...(that%is)%rubbed%in"%(from%Wikipedia).%Obviously%I%won't%be%making%any%claims%for%the%products%we'll%be%making%K%we%make%cosmetic%products,%not%drugs%around%here!%K%but%we%can%consider%a%balm%to%be%a%product%that%

includes%ingredients%we%have%chosen%to%change%the%appearance%of%our%skin%or%hair,%and%that%might%help%with%a%specific%condition%that's%bugging%us.%Conditions%like%dry,%itchy,%sun%exposed,%or%annoyed%skin%might%be%helped%with%a%balm%we%might%make.%(A%lip%balm%is%intended%to%moisturize%dry%lips%or%provide%sun%protection,%so%it%falls%into%this%category.)%Balms%can%come%in%stick%or%lotionKy%type%format.%We%can%modify%our%whipped%butters%and%lotion%bars%to%be%balms,%or%we%can%make%more%oily%types%of%balms.%We'll%be%taking%a%look%at%each%type%in%the%next%few%days.%%And#yes,#you#can#make#balms#with#water#and#emulsifiers#in#a#lotion#format,#but#we're#not#doing#that#in#these#posts#as#we're#focusing#on#anhydrous#products#at#the#moment.#%%This,recipe,is,rated,E,for,everyone,,and,is,fantastic,for,beginners,,those,who,don't,wish,to,use,preservatives,,or,those,who,are,seeking,an,all,natural,product.,The,shelf,life,of,this,product,is,dependent,upon,the,shelf,life,of,your,oils.,Please,use,caution,and,common,sense,when,using,essential,oils,,do,some,research,if,you,plan,to,use,essential,oils,in,products,intended,for,nursing,or,pregnant,women,,children,,or,the,infirm.,%%The%key%to%creating%a%balm%is%not%the%actual%recipe%but%the%oils,%butters,%and%essential%oils%we%choose%to%include.%Having%said%this,%we%can%only%include%oil%soluble%extracts%in%our%anhydrous%products%K%to%include%things%like%powdered%extracts%we%need%to%include%water%soluble%things%like%glycerin%or%water,%and%to%include%those%things%we%need%emulsifiers.%In%other%words,%to%include%those%ingredients,%we%need%to%make%a%lotion.%%%Let's%take%a%look%at%the%mango%butter%lotion%bar%and%how%we%can%turn%it%into%a%balm.%Let's%say,%for%example,%I%have%a%cold.%I%could%turn%this%into%a%makingKmyKsinusesKfeelKbetter%bar%by%adding%an%essential%oil%and%menthol%mixture%reminiscent%of%Vicks.%Notice%I%reduce%the%oil%amount%so%I%can%up%the%menthol%and%essential%oils;%reducing%the%oils%won't%change%the%hardness%of%the%bar,%which%we%know%is%vital%to%keeping%it%in%lotion%bar%form.%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 35*MANGO&BUTTER&LOTION&BAR&MODIFIED&INTO&A&BALM&

28%%beeswax%30%%mango%butter%37%%rice%bran%oil%3%%menthol%1%%eucalyptus%essential%oil%1%%camphor%essential%oil%%Melt%all%the%ingredients%except%the%essential%oils%in%a%

heatproof%container%in%a%double%boiler.%When%melted,%add%the%essential%oils%and%pour%into%a%mould%or%container.%Let%set,%then%use.%%%As%a%note,%this%makes%for%a%very%nice%foot%lotion%bar%as%well.%You%could%switch%the%oil%out%to%be%a%heavier%oil%like%olive%oil%(which%is%also%a%humectant)%or%avocado%oil.%%%Or%what%if%I%want%something%to%help%with%sore%muscles?%When%I%fell%down%the%metal%stairs%on%a%B.C.%ferry%two%years%ago,%I%created%a%lotion%bar%with%various%essential%oils%reported%to%help%stimulate%blood%circulation%in%an%attempt%to%get%rid%of%my%bruise%as%well%as%a%few%reported%to%help%soothe%injured%muscles%(I%didn't%have%any%open%wounds%K%DO%NOT%USE%THIS%BLEND%ON%OPEN%WOUNDS!%IT%WOULD%BE%THE%CLOSEST%THING%TO%HELL%YOU%WOULD%EXPERIENCE%ON%EARTH!)%You%could%easily%do%this%with%your%favourite%lotion%bar%or%whipped%butter.%%

WHIPPED&BUTTER&WITH&ESSENTIAL&OILS&THAT&MIGHT&BE&GOOD&FOR&INCREASING&CIRCULATION&AND&SOOTHING&SORE&MUSCLES&

75%%shea%butter%19.5%%sunflower%oil%3%%menthol%crystals%0.5%%cinnamon%essential%oil%0.5%%ginger%essential%oil%0.5%%clove%essential%oil%1%%eucalyptus%essential%oil%

%I%chose%to%use%sunflower%oil%because%it's%really%high%in%phytosterols,%which%offer%antiKinflammatory%effects,%and%has%good%levels%of%Vitamin%E,%which%offer%softening%benefits.%Soybean%oil%would%have%been%a%great%choice%here,%but%I%didn't%have%any%in%the%house%and%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 36*driving%was%out%of%the%question%because%of%the%giant%bruise%on%my%bottom,%so%I%went%with%sunflower%oil.%%%%Choosing%the%right%oils%and%butters%can%turn%your%anhydrous%product%into%a%balm.%For%instance,%choosing%an%oil%high%in%phytosterols%like%sesame%seed,%soy%bean,%or%apricot%kernel%oil%might%help%with%inflammation.%Choosing%olive%oil%might%help%with%postKsun%exposure.%Or%choosing%an%oil%high%in%Vitamin%E,%like%wheat%germ%oil,%might%help%with%softening%your%skin.%%%Let's%say%you're%on%a%quest%to%help%your%really%dry%or%trashed%skin.%You%might%want%to%create%a%whipped%butter%with%shea%as%the%base%butter%because%it%is%a%great%occlusive%and%emollient.%But%what%to%choose%as%the%oil?%We%could%use%something%like%borage%oil%K%the%GLA%helps%repair%our%skin's%barrier%mechanisms%quickly%K%and%it%will%feel%dry%with%the%greasiness%of%the%shea%butter.%It'll%also%help%with%itching%and%moisturizing.%We%can%use%this%at%10%,%but%we%want%to%add%another%10%%to%the%mix.%We%can%add%1%%Vitamin%E%and%1%%fragrance%oil,%but%this%leaves%us%with%8%%left%to%add.%What%about%calendula%oil?%It%is%supposed%to%help%with%wound%healing,%and%it's%also%an%astringent%or%dry%oil.%Sounds%good%to%me!%%

WHIPPED&SHEA&BUTTER&WITH&BORAGE&AND&CALENDULA&OIL&

80%%shea%butter%10%%borage%oil%8%%calendula%oil%1%%Vitamin%E%1%%fragrance%or%essential%oil%%Weigh%the%hard%butter%and%oil%in%a%heat%proof%container%and%melt%slightly%in%a%double%boiler%or%microwave.%When%the%butter%has%melted%slightly%K%you%can%tell%because%it'll%look%melted%and%probably%has%a%bit%of%oil%around%it%K%remove%it%from%the%heat%and%add%your%fragrance%oil%and%Vitamin%E.%Start%whipping!%Whip%until%it%has%doubled%in%size.%Spoon%into%jars%and%rejoice.%It%will%harden%over%the%next%few%hours.%Enjoy!%%If%you%wanted%something%that%felt%even%drier,%you%could%use%mango%butter%in%place%of%the%shea%butter.%%%You%could%easily%adapt%this%in%a%lotion%bar%format%by%using%the%lotion%bar%recipe.%We%know%shea%butter%is%softer%than%the%other%butters,%so%we'll%use%30%%beeswax%and%and%33%%shea%butter.%But%we%don't%want%to%use%33%%borage%oil%or%33%%calendula%oil%as%they%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 37*are%kind%of%expensive%and%the%suggested%usage%is%up%to%10%%for%each.%We%could%throw%in%another%exotic%oil%or%two,%but%I'm%thinking%we%could%use%an%inexpensive%carrier%that%offers%moisturizing%and%contains%lots%of%wonderful%phytosterols%and%linoleic%acid.%Soy%bean%oil%or%rice%bran%oil%would%work%beautifully%here.%%

SHEA&BUTTER&LOTION&BAR&WITH&BORAGE&AND&CALENDULA&OIL& &

30%%beeswax%33%%shea%butter%10%%borage%oil%10%%calendula%oil%24%%soy%bean%or%rice%bran%oil%1%%Vitamin%E%1%%fragrance%or%essential%oil%%If%we%wanted%to%use%mango%butter,%we%could%substitute%it%for%the%shea%butter,%and%you%can%substitute%any%oils%for%the%oils%used%in%either%recipe.%%

MODIFYING&YOUR&BALM&RECIPE&

As%we%know,%a%balm%is%a%product%intended%to%help%with%a%condition%of%some%sort%intended%to%be%rubbed%in,%so%we%need%to%modify%these%recipes%to%help%with%some%condition.%What%condition%could%we%choose%here?%How%about%sun%exposure?%%Let's%say%you've%been%in%the%sun%a%little%too%long%and%forgot%to%reKapply%your%sun%screen.%(Yep,%that%was%me%on%our%camping%trip!%I%applied%it%twice%during%our%visit%to%the%beach,%but%I%guess%my%shoulders%are%just%too%accustomed%to%being%hidden%under%layers%of%fabric!)%I'll%want%to%use%ingredients%that%offer%antiKinflammatory%and%soothing%benefits.%%Olive%oil%is%a%great%oil%for%postKsun%exposure%and%antiKinflammation,%so%let's%include%that.%Ideally,%I'd%include%aloe,%but%I%can't%use%that%in%an%anhydrous%product,%so%that's%out.%But%wait!%I%have%aloe%oil%and%aloe%butter%(with%coconut%oil)%so%I%could%use%either%as%the%oil%in%this%recipe.%I%think%I'll%go%with%the%aloe%and%coconut%oil%as%it%will%offer%additional%antiKinflammatory%properties.%I%think%I'll%go%with%mango%butter%in%this%application%as%it%offers%some%good%antiKinflammatory%properties%as%well%K%plus,%it's%a%little%drier%with%these%greasy%oils.%%What%essential%oils%could%I%include%for%soothing%and%antiKinflammatory%properties?%Lavender%would%be%a%great%inclusion%and%I%have%a%ton%of%it%in%the%house%but%there's%one%small%problem...I%can't%handle%the%smell%of%it%on%my%skin%(it's%fine%in%a%rinse%off%product),%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 38*so%that%won't%work.%Chamomile%is%also%suggested,%but%it%tends%to%be%kinda%expensive.%So%for%the%purposes%of%this%balm,%let's%pretend%that%I%can%use%lavender%essential%oil%on%my%skin...%

AFTER&SUN&BALM&WITH&LAVENDER&ESSENTIAL&OIL&

20%%beeswax%25%%mango%butter%30%%olive%oil%19%%aloe%butter%(made%with%coconut%oil)%5%%cetyl%alcohol%1%%lavender%essential%oil%%This%will%be%quite%a%heavy%feeling%balm%courtesy%of%the%olive%oil%(medium%to%heavy),%coconut%oil%(heavy)%and%the%mango%butter%(heavy).%You%can%adjust%the%balm%to%feel%lighter%by%using%lighter%oils.%%%If%I%wanted%to%use%fancier%oils%and%butters%here,%I%think%babassu%would%feel%just%lovely%and%would%offer%moisturizing%and%antiKinflammatory%properties,%shea%butter%contains%allantoin,%which%would%help%with%healing%and%occlusive,%and%pomegranate%oil%could%offer%increased%burn%and%wound%healing.%The%Vitamin%E%and%phytosterol%levels%of%sea%buckthorn%would%make%this%a%great%addition%to%a%postKsun%exposure%balm!%And%I%could%use%my%aloe%oil%here%at%up%to%10%!%

EXOTIC&AFTER&SUN&BALM&WITH&LAVENDER&ESSENTIAL&OIL& &

20%%beeswax%25%%shea%butter%19%%babassu%oil%10%%pomegranate%oil%10%%sea%buckthorn%oil%10%%aloe%oil%5%%cetyl%alcohol%1%%lavender%essential%oil%%This%balm%will%feel%much%lighter%than%the%balm%above%thanks%to%the%lighter%feeling%oils.%It%will%not%feel%as%greasy%as%these%oils%K%apart%from%the%aloe%oil%K%are%a%lot%drier%than%the%shea%butter.%If%you%wanted%to%use%mango,%you%would%get%quite%a%dry%feeling%balm!%%%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 39*You%could%adapt%these%recipes%to%use%the%essential%oil%blend%I%mentioned%in%the%first%post%on%balms%to%include%3%%menthol,%0.5%%cinnamon,%0.5%%ginger,%0.5%%clove,%and%1%%eucalyptus%to%create%a%sore%muscle%blend%or%the%3%%menthol,%1%%eucalyptus,%and%1%%camphor%blend%to%make%a%Vicks%type%blend%for%your%feet%or%sinuses.%%

A&NEW&BALM&RECIPE& &

Ive%found%that%I%like%a%balm%with%the%consistency%of%Vaseline%or%Vicks,%something%I%can%scoop%out%of%a%container%that%will%melt%on%contact%with%my%skin.%I%find%about%20%%beeswax%gives%me%that%consistency.%I%like%to%use%about%20%%to%30%%butter%for%this%recipe%as%well%K%it%gives%it%a%certain%stiffness%without%being%a%lotion%bar.%The%rest%of%the%

ingredients%should%be%oil%soluble%liquids.%%This,recipe,is,rated,E,for,everyone,,and,is,fantastic,for,beginners,,those,who,don't,wish,to,use,preservatives,,or,those,who,are,seeking,an,all,natural,product.,The,shelf,life,of,this,product,is,dependent,upon,the,shelf,life,of,your,oils.%

BASIC&NEW&BALM&RECIPE&

20%%beeswax%or%soy%wax%25%%shea%or%mango%butter%54%%liquid%oil%1%%fragrance%or%essential%oil%%Weigh%the%wax,%butter,%and%oil%in%a%heatproof%container%and%put%into%a%double%boiler.%Melt%until%the%solids%are%liquid.%Remove%and%let%cool%to%45C%before%adding%your%fragrance%or%essential%oil.%Pour%into%your%container%or%let%sit%in%the%Pyrex%jug%until%cooled,%then%spoon%into%your%container.%Rejoice.%%If%you%want%to%use%cocoa%butter,%you'll%want%to%reduce%the%beeswax%to%about%15%%and%up%the%liquid%oil%amount%by%5%.%If%you%want%to%use%oils%with%a%6%months%or%less%shelf%life,%add%up%to%1%%Vitamin%E.%%Although%I%really%like%the%basic%balm%recipe,%you%know%I%can't%help%doing%a%little%experimenting.%So%I%added%some%cetyl%alcohol%to%see%if%it%would%stiffen%up%my%balm%and%add%some%creaminess.%It%did,%and%it%felt%very%nice%on%my%skin,%very%glidy.%You%could%do%this%with%stearic%acid%as%well%K%it'll%be%a%little%stiffer%with%some%creaminess,%but%it'll%be%a%little%less%glidy%on%your%skin.%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 40*MODIFIED&BALM&RECIPE&WITH&CETYL&ALCOHOL&

20%%beeswax%25%%shea%butter%49%%oil%5%%cetyl%alcohol%1%%fragrance%oil%%As%with%the%whipped%butter%and%lotion%bar%recipes,%if%you%choose%drier%oils%and%butters,%you'll%have%a%drier%feeling%product.%You%can%add%esters%K%like%IPM%at%2%%K%to%reduce%the%greasy%feeling%you%get%from%this%product.%But%let's%be%honest%here%K%it's%an%oil%based%product,%so%you're%not%going%to%make%the%greasy%feeling%go%away.%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 41*AN,ASIDE,ON,USING,ESSENTIAL,OILS,Whenever%you're%using%essential%oils,%please%read%up%on%the%oil%before%using%it.%A%lot%of%people%start%off%by%using%essential%oils%as%we%would%fragrance%oils%at%something%like%1%%or%more%in%our%creations,%not%realizing%or%thinking%they%could%be%quite%potent%at%that%percentage.%Always%check%the%safety%of%the%essential%oil%before%using%it%on%pregnant%or%nursing%women,%on%children,%on%the%infirm,%and%on%those%with%specific%skin%conditions.%%%Also,%check%for%photoKsensitivity%of%the%essential%oil.%A%lot%of%the%citrus%based%oils%can%make%you%more%photoKsensitive,%which%can%lead%to%sun%burns!%Although%I%love%key%lime%essential%oil,%I%won't%use%it%in%something%like%a%body%lotion,%just%in%case%the%user%might%end%up%in%the%summer%sun!%So%before%you%use%orange,%tangerine,%bergamot,%lime%or%key%lime,%grapefruit,%or%other%citrus%essential%oils,%check%up%on%the%safety%regulations%of%said%oil!%%And%consider%where%the%user%of%your%product%might%end%up%using%your%product%and%stay%within%the%recommended%amounts!%A%few%examples%for%you...%%I%once%had%the%brilliant%idea%for%a%Vicks%like%bath%bomb%to%help%me%with%a%horrible%cold%K%think%about%that%for%a%moment...menthol,%eucalyptus,%and%camphor%in%your%bath%water%near%tender%mucous%membranes.%(Not%one%of%my%more%brilliant%ideas%K%I%blame%the%NyQuiladas!)%%This%same%blend%was%responsible%for%a%tingling%bum%in%a%foot%lotion%K%a%lot%of%people%curl%their%feet%up%when%they're%sitting%down%at%the%computer,%and%going%over%the%3%%menthol%amount%can%produce%tingles%in%other%locations!%%Cinnamon,%ginger,%and%clove%in%a%sore%muscle%blend%feel%warm%and%tingly%on%your%shoulders,%but%the%massager%really%needs%to%wash%her%hands%after%application%lest%she%touches%her%face%or%eyes%at%some%point.%Same%goes%for%peppermint%hand%lotion%at%more%than%2%.%%Essential%oils%should%be%treated%with%respect%and%caution%when%we%are%formulating%lest%we%induce%tingly%bums%or%burning%eyes.%Read%up%on%your%chosen%essential%oils%and%use%them%at%recommended%levels%in%your%products%at%all%times!%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 42*OIL,BASED,SCRUBS,The%basic%idea%behind%an%oil%based%scrub%is%to%combine%some%lovely%oils%together,%add%a%generous%helping%of%salt%as%the%exfoliant,%then%add%some%fragrance%or%essential%oils%that%will%make%you%smell%nice.%Pretty%simple%concept,%yet%you'll%see%these%for%$40%through%some%mall%kiosks%and%multiKlevel%partyKholding%companies.%Let's%make%our%own%for%very%little%money,%eh?%

%This,recipe,is,rated,E,for,everyone,,and,is,fantastic,for,beginners,,those,who,don't,wish,to,use,preservatives,,or,those,who,are,seeking,an,all,natural,product.,The,shelf,life,of,this,product,is,dependent,upon,the,shelf,life,of,your,oils.%%

IN&THE&TUB&SCRUB&

97%%liquid%oil%of%choice%2%%fragrance%or%essential%oil%1%%Vitamin%E%(optional)%%Mix%your%oils%together%well.%Put%up%to%100%%salt%into%a%clean%jar.%Pour%the%oils%over%top,%mix,%and%you've%got%yourself%a%lovely%scrub!%This%will%need%to%be%mixed%every%time%you%use%it%as%the%oils%migrate%to%the%top%of%the%jar.%(Buy%a%few%little%spatulae%from%your%local%supply%store%to%ensure%you%aren't%contaminating%it!)%If%you%are%using%this%in%the%tub,%please%buy%some%plastic%jars%K%glass%and%slippery%surfaces%aren't%a%winning%combination.%%%If%you%want%to%make%a%completely%saturated%oil%scrub%that%won't%need%much%stirring,%you%can%put%salt%up%to%the%top%of%the%jar,%then%pour%your%oil%over%it.%Let%it%sit%overnight%and%see%how%much%oil%comes%to%the%top.%If%it%doesn't%rise%up%and%form%a%layer%(or%at%least%a%significant%layer),%you%have%a%saturated%oil%based%scrub%that%won't%need%much%stirring.%It%will%feel%drier%than%a%scrub%that%has%more%oil%available%to%it.%%The%great%thing%about%a%basic%recipe%like%this%is%how%easy%it%is%to%make.%Combine%oils,%stir,%add%salt,%done.%The%hard%part%is%in%choosing%your%oils%for%the%application.%%OIL,CHOICES%If%you%want%something%very%light,%then%you'd%want%to%choose%very%light%oils%like%sunflower,%soy%bean,%apricot%kernel,%sweet%almond,%and%fractionated%coconut%oil.%If%you%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 43*want%a%heavier%scrub,%then%you%could%choose%the%medium%to%heavier%oils%like%avocado,%rice%bran,%olive%oil,%and%so%on.%%If%you%prefer%a%drier%feeling%product,%then%avocado,%hazelnut,%borage,%evening%primrose,%and%macadamia%nut%oils%are%your%friends.%If%you%prefer%a%greasier%feeling%product,%then%sunflower,%soybean,%apricot%kernel,%sweet%almond,%fractionated%coconut,%olive%oil,%and%rice%bran%oil%are%good%choices.%(There%are%other%choices,%these%are%just%a%sampling).%%I%like%to%choose%a%light%and%a%medium%to%heavy%oil%for%scrubs.%Generally%I'll%go%with%soybean%or%sunflower%as%my%light%choices,%rice%bran%or%olive%oil%as%my%medium%to%heavy%choices.%This%is%a%great%place%to%throw%in%a%little%exotic%oil%at%10%%like%sea%buckthorn%or%pomegranate%or%borage%oil%if%you%want%some%of%their%great%benefits.%%EXFOLIANT,CHOICES%You%can%use%salt,%sugar,%clay%or%jojoba%beads,%and%all%manner%of%scrubby%things.%I%have%found%the%three%things%I%like%best%are%salt,%sugar,%and%pumice.%Pumice%is%great%for%my%feet,%but%not%for%my%face%K%far%too%scrubby.%I%find%the%jojoba%and%clay%beads%just%aren't%scrubby%enough%for%my%tastes,%but%you%may%like%them,%and%they%come%in%a%variety%of%colours%that%will%look%lovely%in%the%container.%%SALT,CHOICES%I'd%recommend%using%fine%sea%salt%or%fine%Epsom%salts.%Although%coarser%salts%can%look%pretty%cool,%they%don't%feel%all%that%nice%when%you're%using%it%on%your%body.%And%fine%Dead%Sea%salts%are%great,%but%as%they%are%a%humectant,%mix%them%in%with%at%least%50%%of%another%salt.%And%remember%that%salt%can%sting%open%wounds%or%chapped%areas,%so%keep%this%away%from%newly%shaved%legs%or%really%trashed%feet.%Instead,%choose%sugar...%%SUGAR,CHOICES%I%find%plain,%everyday%white%sugar%is%a%great%choice.%Brown%sugar%is%a%good%humectant,%meaning%it%will%clump%up,%and%I've%found%things%like%plantation%sugar%tends%to%have%really%big%crystals%that%can%hurt%a%little.%But%use%what%you%want%K%just%make%sure%it's%mixable%once%it%ends%up%in%the%oil!%%POINT,OF,INTEREST!%Do%not%package%these%in%tin%containers.%Although%they%do%not%contain%water,%they%will%be%in%a%watery%environment%and%you%may%be%putting%your%hands%into%them%when%they%are%wet.%They%will%rust%and%make%a%horrible%ring%on%your%shower%shelf%or%tub%side%and%may%ruin%the%product!%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 44*%ANOTHER,POINT,OF,INTEREST!%Although%you%can%make%these%without%preservatives,%I%would%suggest%using%1%%Phenonip%in%this%product%(or%another%preservative%suitable%for%oil%based%products)%because%you%will%be%putting%wet%hands%into%this%product%and%water%can%equal%contamination.%Remove%1%%of%the%oils%to%compensate%for%the%addition%of%the%1%%preservative.%Liquid%Germall%Plus%and%Germaben%II%are%not%options%for%preserving%this%product.%%

MODIFYING&OTHER&RECIPES&TO&BECOME&SCRUB&RECIPES&

We%can%all%use%a%little%exfoliation,%so%it%doesn't%hurt%to%have%a%few%different%scrub%recipes%lying%around%the%house.%The%scrub%bar%is%great%for%throwing%into%a%makeKup%bag%for%travelling%and%the%oil%based%one%is%great%for%bath%time%exfoliation%and%moisturization,%but%we%can%always%use%more%scrubby%whippy%fun!%%This,recipe,is,rated,E+,for,everyone,T,beginners,who,are,a,little,more,adventurous,,those,who,don't,wish,to,use,preservatives,,and,those,who,are,seeking,an,all,natural,product.,The,shelf,life,of,this,product,is,dependent,upon,the,shelf,life,of,your,oils.,%%WHIPPED,BUTTER,BECOMES,SCRUB%If%you%enjoyed%the%whipped%butter%post,%you%might%want%to%consider%turning%it%into%a%scrub,%which%is%pretty%simple.%You%can%add%pumice%(for%feet),%jojoba%or%clay%beads,%sugar%or%salt,%walnut%shells%or%apricot%scrubby%things,%or%even%different%kinds%of%seeds!%Add%between%30%to%100%%of%these%scrubby%ingredients%to%your%previously%made%whipped%butter.%(So%if%you%have%100%grams%of%whipped%butter,%add%30%to%100%grams%of%the%scrubby%ingredients.)%How%much%you%add%is%all%about%personal%choice.%I%like%something%really%scrubby%for%my%feet;%not%so%much%for%my%face.%%For%your%feet,%I'd%suggest%100%%pumice%or%salt,%or%a%mixture%of%both.%For%your%face%K%if%you%can%tolerate%all%that%oil!%K%you'd%want%a%very%light%exfoliant%like%clay%or%jojoba%beads%at%30%to%50%.%For%your%body,%100%%salt%or%sugar%or%a%mixture%of%the%two%would%be%great,%remembering%that%salt%can%sting%wounds%and%newly%shaven%skin.%%%Before%using%shells%of%any%sort,%try%them%out%in%a%small%amount.%I%have%found%they%are%very%very%scrubby%and%can%be%very%uncomfortable%for%some%people%(like%me).%You%can%also%get%loofah%bits%and%use%those.%I%have%found%they%aren't%scrubby%enough.%(Yes,%I'm%a%difficult%woman.%There,%I've%finally%said%it%out%loud!)%%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 45*INSTRUCTIONS%FOR%USE:%In%the%shower%or%bath,%rub%on%your%chosen%body%part%and%rinse.%If%you%are%using%this%on%your%feet,%don't%use%it%in%the%shower%as%you%might%fall%down%and%hurt%yourself%very%badly%and%even%die.%Should%you%choose%to%ignore%this%last%sentence,%the%court%will%note%that%I%advised%you%not%to%do%it,%so%it's%not%my%fault.%%BALM,BASED,SCRUB%If%you%liked%the%more%liquidy%balm%recipe,%you%can%easily%turn%this%into%a%scrub%by%adding%up%to%100%%exfoliants%to%your%balm%and%using%it%in%the%tub,%shower,%or%sink.%%%BUTTER,AND,OIL,BASED,SCRUB%Try%a%combination%of%the%two%K%10%%butter%of%some%sort,%87%%oil%of%your%choice,%2%%fragrance%oil,%1%%Vitamin%E.%Heat%and%hold%your%oil%and%butter%until%melted.%Then%add%80%to%100%%your%weight%of%oils,%etc.,%in%salt.%Now%add%your%fragrance%or%essential%oil%and%the%Vitamin%E.%Pour%into%a%jar%and%let%set.%This%is%going%to%be%a%bit%thicker%than%your%oil%only%scrub,%more%scoopable.%You%can%even%put%it%into%the%fridge%or%freezer%to%get%a%little%solid,%then%whip%the%heck%out%of%it%to%get%a%whippier%scrub.%%%If%you%use%something%like%cocoa%butter,%this%will%be%a%harder%scrub.%Use%something%like%babassu%and%it%will%melt%on%contact.%Your%choice%of%butter%will%determine%the%consistency%of%your%product.%%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com* 46*SOLID,BATH,MELTS,(aka,BATH,TRUFFLES),Solid%bath%melts%are%a%combination%of%those%little%sachets%of%bath%oils%you%used%to%get%as%a%kid%in%your%Christmas%stocking%and%bath%bombs.%They%contain%the%citric%acid%and%baking%soda%necessary%to%make%them%break%apart%in%the%tub%and%some%great%butters%to%offer%moisturizing%loveliness%in%the%tub.%%%

This,recipe,is,rated,E,for,everyone,,and,is,fantastic,for,beginners,,those,who,don't,wish,to,use,preservatives,,or,those,who,are,seeking,an,all,natural,product.,The,shelf,life,of,this,product,is,dependent,upon,the,shelf,life,of,your,oils.%

BASIC&BATH&MELT&RECIPE&&

16%%citric%acid%32%%cocoa%or%shea%or%mango%butter%48%%baking%soda%1%to%2%%fragrance%or%essential%oil%%Note:#The#cocoa#butter#melts#will#be#harder#than#the#mango#or#shea#butter#melts.#%%Melt%the%cocoa%or%shea%butter%in%a%heat%proof%container%in%a%double%boiler%until%liquid.%Remove%from%the%double%boiler,%then%add%the%baking%soda%and%citric%acid%and%stir%well.%Add%oil%soluble%colouring%(for%instance,%powdered%chocolate%colouring%or%micas),%and%fragrance%oil.%Pour%into%molds%and%let%set.%If%you%can%set%them%in%the%fridge,%all%the%better:%They'll%be%harder%sooner,%and,%if%you're%using%all%cocoa%butter,%they%will%get%a%lovely%shine%that%makes%them%look%even%more%chocolateKy.%

BATH&MELT&WITH&EMULSIFIER&

16%%citric%acid%32%%cocoa%or%shea%or%mango%butter%45%%baking%soda%5%%liquid%emulsifier%or%eKwax%or%Polawax%1%to%2%%fragrance%or%essential%oil%%You%definitely%want%to%make%small%bath%melts%K%silicone%ice%cube%trays%or%small%chocolate%molds%to%the%rescue!%K%as%anything%over%about%30%grams%can%take%forever%to%melt%in%a%bath!%And%it's%fun%to%give%someone%a%variety%pack%with%different,%yet%complementary,%fragrances%they%can%mix%and%match%in%the%tub.%

ANHYDROUS*PRODUCTS*from*http://swiftcra