forgotten books · a foreword by the right hon. j. r. clynes, m. p. foo d contro ller to shun...

B OOKS B Y MRS. C. S. PEEL

WAR RATION COOKERY (EAT LESSMEAT BOOK )

THE LABOUR SAVING HOUSE

NO VE L S :

THE HAT SHOPMRS. BARNET-ROBESA MRS. J ONES

THE BODLEY HEAD

T HE V ICT ORY

COOKERY BOOK

MRS. C . S. PEELUNT IL RECENTLY D IRECTOR OF WOMEN’S SERVICE,MIN ISTRY OF FOOD ; ED ITOR OF LE MENAGE (

“THE

D IRECTOR OF THE “ DAILY MAIL FOOD BUREAUAND

IWAN KR IENSCUL INARY E ! PERT AND FOOD SPEC IALI ST , MEMBER OF THE

GORDON ROUGE (GOLDEN) ORDER OF MERIT FOOD AND COOK ERYASSOC IAT ION ; MANY D IPLOMAs OF HONOUR AND SEVERAL

MEDALs ; MEMERE DU J URY , PARIS SALON CULINAIRE

WITH A FOREWORDBY THE R IGHT HON . J . R . CLYNES, M.P .

FOOD £01"?q LE?

LONDON JOHN LANE THE BODLEY HEAD

NEW YORK JOHN LANE COMPANY MCM! VI II

A FOREWORD

BY THE RIGHT HON. J . R. CLYNES, M.P .

FOOD CONTROLLER

To shun waste, to get out of our foodstu ffs

the full measure of nourishment — theseare essential principles in war-time cookery ;and I should like to see the words “ Makedo

”

on the walls of every kitchen in the

land . Good , careful, thrifty cooking addsattractiveness to food, and none does it

concern more nearly than the Food Con

troller, whose interest it is to see that foodis put to the best u se . A book which helpsto that end should be Widely known . Herethe good housewife (whose goodwill and goodtemper have been a national asset in thesetimes of shadow and anxiety ) is shown theway by which to make the best of war-time

foodstuffs .

Let us remember at all our hearths thebravery of the men who through perils of theseas bring food to our shores . Remembering that, we shall practise economy in athankful spirit .

C O NT ENT S

CRAP.

I . GENERAL NOTES ON FOOD : ITS VALUE AND

PREPARATION

II. SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY AND SAUCES

I I I . FRESH,DR IED AND FRESHWATER FISH

IV . MEAT DISHE S : WITH BUT L ITTLE MEAT

V . MEATLESS DISHES— CEREALS, PULSES, ETC .

VI . VEGETABLES, VEGETABLE DISHES AND SALAD S

VI I . PASTRY , PUDD INGS AND SWEETS : WITH BUT

L ITTLE FAT OR SUGAR

VII I . EGG DI SHE S

I ! . BREAD , CAKES AND SCONES

! . SUNDR IES, INCLUD ING POCKET LUNCHES ANDINVALID DI SHES

PAGE

145

C H A P T E R I

GENERAL NOTES ON FOOD

ITS VALUE AND PREPARATION

Fools can

cook economically .

it needs

C HA P TE R I

GENERAL NOTES ON FOOD

ITS VALUE AND PREPARATION

The Art of Making Do

THE object of this Cookery B ook is to helpthose who now have to cater and cook undercircumstances which they have not formerlyexperienced . Conditions with regard to foodchange almost from week to week, and thehousekeeper must take advantage of the

market,buying intelligently of what is

offered and then using it to the best ad

vantage . The art of substituting, of making do

,

” must be largely practised ; if onematerial cannot be obtained then anothermust be employed . If there is but littlemeat

,then we must turn our attention to

those food s which best take its place ;when fat is difficult to procure (the mostserious loss of all ) , we must , by taking fulladvantage of fatty foods, make up for alack of butter, margarine and cooking fats .

4 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK

Economy in Material, Fuel and Labour

The recipes which are given in these pagesare war recipes, framed to economisematerial, and , where possible, labour andfuel ; but as regards labour every cook willrealise that made dishes, such as are nownecessary ,

require more time and attentionthan the roast j oint and plain pudding styleof cookery so prevalent before the war .

Various Kinds of Waste

The recipes here given are lacking neitherin nourishment nor in attractive appearance . The latter is an important point,for food which looks nasty, and, therefore,is not eaten with the good appetite whichleads to good digestion, is wasteful. The

word waste is one which has been heardoften of late, and truly we were a terriblywasteful people, for not only did we throwfood fit for human consumption into ashbins and pig-tubs, but vast quantities of itwere wasted by bad or improper cookingand by careless eating and treatment attable . B read was crumbled and food lefton plates . B ones, skin and gristle shouldnot have found their way on to plates

GENERAL NOTES ON FOOD 5

thence to be thrown away, but have cometo their rightful end in the stock-pot . Inaddition, we wasted by failing to masticateour food thoroughly, and therefore alloweda considerable portion of it to pass out ofthe body undigested . With greater knowledge, care and Skill, and an understandingof the fact that there is nothing to be proudof in

‘

waste and extravagance, it may wellcome to pass that we fare better though weeat less .Food consists of five important parts

1 . Proteid .

2 . Carbohydrates .3 . Fats .

4 . Minerals .

5 . Water .

Proteid

Proteid is of the greatest importance . Itis essential to the growth of the young andto the maintenance of the frame and muscleof our bodies . It is found in animal as wellas in vegetable foods . Meat, fish, eggs,cheese and milk are animal foods and nuts,pulses, cereals and vegetables are vegetablefoods . The proteid contained in these foodsacts in more or less the same manner, but


naturally much of their ultimate valuedepends on the method of their preparation .

All these foods contain water ; some losepart of this in the cooking, others gain, andsome gain much more than others .

Carbohydrates and Fats

B esides the proteid, carbohydrates—viz .

starch and sugar— are present in most foods,particularly in pulses and cereals ; also infat . These foods act on the body likefuel on a fire ; they produce heat andenergy .

Starch and sugar have the same food value .

All starch must be changed into sugarbefore it can be absorbed into the system .

Fat has 2k times the value of starch orsugar but is not so easily digested .

Minerals and Water

Mineral salts are present in all foods ;they are medicine to the body, keep the

blood healthy, and, with the assistance ofwater, keep the system clean .

Protein Foods

The foods containing a high proportion


of protein are : Nuts, cheese, meat (lean) ,fish, eggs, lentils, beans, peas, oatmeal,maize and wheat .

Starch Foods

The foods containing a high proportionof starch are Arrowroot, cornfiour, tapioca,sago, rice, barley, wheat flour, macaroni,oatmeal, pulses .

Fat Foods

The foods rich in fat are : Nuts, bacon,meat, cheese, yolk of egg, eels, salmon,mackerel, herring, olives, maize, oatmeal .

Minerals

The foods rich in minerals are : Cereals,vegetables and fruit .

Sugar in Vegetables

Th vegetables especially richare B eetroot, parsnip and carrot .

Water

There is more water in meat and vege

tables than in cereals, and more water in

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stock has been extracted—a fact which therecipes in this book amply illustrate .

Purées

In purées (that is soups passed through asieve) the u se of a mincing machine is ad

vocated instead, because this method saveslabour and sieves . Purées should alwaysbe finished by a slight additional thickening,viz . 1 teaspoonful of corn or potato flourmixed smoothly in milk or water, to eachquart of soup , added at the last momentand boiled once This will prevent the

thickening from Sinking to the bottom ofthe pan, which it would otherwise do .

Too many ingredients should not be usedin one soup the flavour should be distinct .

Four oz . of onion or leek and Q lb . of vegetables, together with 1 oz . fat and 1 to 2 oz .

of cereals, will make 1quart of good vege

table soup . To finish , 1 gill of milk and1 teaspoonful of flour must be added forthe final thickening . Soups should notovercook ; the flavour will be spoiled andunnecessary fuel used .

Fish

Fish is a food of high value . The most


nutritious are salmon, herring, sprats,mackerel, eels and shad . Fish should notbe boiled . Cooked thus it loses much of itsnutriment , which is washed out into the

water . B oiled fish also loses its flavour .

The best methods of cooking fish are steaming, baking and stoving,

” stewing or frying .

Meat

There is about 75 per cent . of water inmeat, some of which evaporates in the cooking ; therefore the meat weighs less aftercooking, but its value as a food has increased .

Cooked meat becomes a concentrated food ,

which Should be used as sparingly as possible .

As a nation we have hitherto eaten toogenerously of meat . There is always fatpresent in the meat (even when it is what istermed lean) of a healthy animal, so thatwhen we cook meat a certain amount offat will become available for u se with fatlessfoods, such as vegetables, fresh or dried .

Eggs

Eggs are dear, but the dried eggs nowplaced on the market are excellent food value .

They can be used in the same manner asfresh eggs, but care must be taken not to


add too much water, otherwise they separate .

The correct amount is generally three timesas much water as egg by weight . If a driedegg is needed in a hurry, soak in warm wateron the stove, and when the egg begins torise beat it up well over heat .

Cheese

Cheese, raw or cooked, is a concentratedfood , and should be used most carefullyIt contains a large amount of fat, about30 per cent . more or less, so to eat anyother fat with cheese is extravagant and nu

Milk should be used sparingly by adultsit is the food for children . There is about3§ per cent . fat and 3% per cent . proteidpresent in milk . Some people regard milkmerely as a drink , but it i s a food , and afterit has been swallowed the casein becomessolid . B lended with well cooked starchyfood, milk is an ideal food for the nursery.

Nuts

Nuts contain a large amount of proteidand fat ; they should be chopped or grated


finely and mixed with other food poor inboth these properties. Slightly grilled, theyincrease in flavour .

Pu lses

Pulses should not be boiled in water ;such a method is too expensive in fueland they absorb too much water, therebyenormously decreasing their value as a food .

The best method is to soak them until theyhave absorbed sufficient water to fully ex

pand them, and then to steam them . Inthis manner they do not absorb more thantheir own weight of water, thereby retaininga

,

high food value . They Should be eatenwith food containing fat, or cooked withsome fat , as they are deficient in that particular food . They are the substitute for meatof the vegetarian, and with fat or the additionof meat gravy they must now be employedby everyone to assist in economising meat .

Some people suffer from flatulence aftereating pulses, owing to the sulphur theycontain if, however, potato or rice is eatenat the same time this trouble may be avoided .

Also, many persons digest pulses whichhave been sieved who find it difficult to digestthem when served whole .

GENERAL NOTES ON FOOD 1 3

Cereals

Cereals are amongst the cheapest foodsavailable . Nearly all foods, except cereals,contain a large amount of water . Cerealsrequire water added in order to cook them .

The smallest amount necessary for thispurpose is the weight of the cereal . Some

cereals, however, absorb much more thanothers, taking as much as four to five timestheir weight in moisture .

The more moisture absorbed in the cookingthe lower the food value, for water has nofeeding value .

All cereals should be well but not overcooked, and need to be thoroughly masticated .

New and Revised Methods of Cooking

Now that it is so necessary to economisefuel as well as food, our methods of cookingmust be revised .

Various little known methods are sug

gested in this book, because they are

economical of fuel and of labour as well asof food ; and although good results wereobtained in former days from other stylesof cookery, now we can only practise thosewhich are economical .


Casserole cooking is highly to be recom

mended , if for one reason only, which is, thatthe food being served in the dish in which itwas cooked, washing-up is saved . For thesame reason advantage should be taken ofthe many attractive fireproof dishes now onthe market .

Sweating

Sweating means cooking very slowly in acovered pan so that the moisture in the foodis extracted and then evaporates, while ithelps to cook the food .

Fat and Oil

When oil is not procurable, u se clarifiedfat, or vice versa .

C H A P T E R I I

sours, STOCKS, GRAVY SAUCES

C H A P T E R I I

SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY AND SAUCES

Soups

IN these days meat soups (unless the p otau -feu or the Scotch broth, which is meatand soup in one) cannot be permitted ;therefore, when a clear soup is required, itmust be a clear vegetable soup (see p .

All bones, gristle and skin, however, shouldbe used for stock in which to cook cerealsand pulses , and to make a foundation forthick soups, gravies and sauces .

A thick soup is a good beginning to ameatless dinner, and, provided there is a goodsupply ofvegetables, a clever cook will seldomfind herself unable to serve an appetising soup .

When bread is mentioned, rice or dumplings might in many cases take its place .

Bone Stock

If bones, raw or cooked, are available forstock, break them small , p lace in cold water,


allowing about 1 quart water to 1 lb . of bone,

and for every quart of stock to be producedadd i‘ oz . of salt . B ring to the boil andskim, then Simmer on a slow fire with the

lid on the pan until all gristle and meatadhering to the bones falls off easily . Thismay take as long as 12 hours In the case ofbeef bones, 4 hours for veal bones, 2 hoursfor chicken bones ; it is the

’

i'efore impossibleto give one time for stock-making . Vege

tables should be added only during the lasthour of Simmering

,for if they were allowed

to cook for as long as the bones their flavourwould be entirely lost, and they wouldbe useless for other purposes. Vegetablesadded during the latter part of the cookingflavour the stock fully, and are then stillavailable for the table either as they are or

in pies, salad, etc .

The correct quantities of vegetables to u se

per quart of stock produced are 2 oz . carrot ,l é oz . turnip, 2 oz . onion stuck with a clove,2 oz . leek, 5 oz . celery and 5 oz . of parsnip ,

also 1 dozen peppercorns and a savouryfaggot of half a bay leaf, an equal amountof thyme and about oz . of parsley stalkstied together .

Trimmings of vegetables Should be usedfor stock, but only such as will not destroy

SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY, SAUCES 19

the stock flavour . Carrot trimmings or peelings

,outside pieces of celery, are good, and

even onion peeling may be used . The greentops of celery Should be carefully used, orthe flavour would overpower all the otherflavours . The peelings of turnip are uselessfor stock, and the dark green of the leekswould also destroy all other flavours . T hisalso applies in the preparation of vegetablestock .

When the stock is finished the fat shouldalways be skimmed off first and carefullyplaced in a basin with water, left until cold ,then removed and cleared for u se . The

stock is then strained.

All gristle and meat must be carefullytaken off the bones, and should, whenSpiced and seasoned, be used for patties,pies and potted meat, so that nothingwhatever is wasted . There is a good dealof food value in this gristle, and yet moreoften the stock, with hardly any nutriment,is used and the remainder is thrown awayas waste .

This stock is then available for soups andsauces, and can be used in any of the recipesmentioned , instead of water, to the ad

vantage of the dish both as regards flavourand nutriment .


Fish Stock

To make a quart of fish stock, place ina saucepan a little oil or fat , then 2 oz . ofsliced onion, half a bay leaf, an equal amountof thyme, a dozen peppercorns (crushed) ,1 clove, some mace the size of a pea andoz . parSley stalks . Place on this 1 lb .

fish bones, sprinkled lightly with salt andthe juice of half a lemon, cover with the

lid of the pan, and cook gently until thejuice from the fish bones is extracted, thenmake up the quantity of liquid to 1 quart .

Simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, then strainthe liquor, draining well to extract it all.Place the fish bones on a dish to cool

,

and if there is any fish , carefully pick itoff with a fork and u se for fish cakes . One

1b . of bones sometimes gives 2 or 3 oz . of fish .

Vegetable Stock

(FOR SOUP OR FOR A FOUNDAT ION FOR

GRAVY OR SAUCE )

Materials .—Carrots, turnips, onions, leeks,

celery, cabbage (1 lb . of these vegetablesmixed), Q oz . fat (if possible allow 1 oz . offat), oz . salt .


Method.—Cut the vegetables in small

blocks about A» inch square . Place the fatin the pot, add the vegetables and salt,cover with a lid and place over a very gentleheat . Stew, stirring from time to timeuntil the vegetables become quite tender .Remove the lid, and when the fat is clearand a sediment has formed at the bottomof the pan similar to the dried gravy whichforms in the tin when roasting meat, coverthe vegetables with 1 quart of water andbring slowly to the boil. Do not stir, asthat would cloud the stock . Let the

mixture simmer for 15 minutes . Drainthe stock well so that all the liquid filtersthrough the vegetables . Stand for a fewminutes to allow the fat to rise

,and

carefully skim it, reserving it for futureuse .

The stock will be perfectly clear, n ot

unlike meat stock, except that it is sweeter,which many people like, but which if necessary can be counteracted by adding atablespoonful of Worcester sauce.

The vegetables must not be thrown awaybut employed for vegetable cutlets, pies, or toserve with meat .

,Vegetables cooked in this manner have a

far better flavour even after the stock has


been extracted, than when boiled in waterin the usual way .

Treated as described , 1 lb . of mixed vege

tables and 1 oz . of fat provide soup and

the main part of a vegetable dish . The

stock should be used in the making of

sauces in place of meat stock .

This stock may be thickened by usingcorn or potato flour mixed smoothly incold stock and then added by degrees tothe boiling stock .

Clear (Vegetable) Soup

This stock can be used for all clear soupsby adding whatever garnish is desired .

Vegetable Gravy

A gravy can be made by frying the

peelings of carrot and onion and a sprig ofcelery together in a little fat . When nicelycoloured add a bunch of savoury herbs, coverwith water, season with salt and pepper andSimmer for 15 minutes . Strain, and if toosweet add a littleWorcester sauce or vinegar .

Brown Vegetable Sauce or Gravy

Materialsr —é oz . fat, 1 oz . flour, 1% pint


of vegetable stock, 1 tablespoonful ofWorcester sauce .

Method.—Fry the flour in the fat until it

becomes nut-brown . Let it cool, and thenadd the vegetable stock . Stir until boilingpoint is reached, then add the Worcestersauce and Simmer very gently for about15 minutes . The fat used will rise to the

surface, and must be skimmed off and addedto the store of cooking fat .

This preparation tastes and looks like ameat gravy .

For sauce boil the stock down until thethickness desired is reached ; season totaste, and it is then ready for u se . Whensauces are made in this way there will beno lumps, and straining is not necessary,except when a skin is allowed to form aftercooking is finished .

If available a tablespoonful of tomatopurée or one or two fresh tomatoes can beadded, or the sauce may be varied byadding a spoonful or two of chutney, mixedpickles, mushrooms, etc .

Meat Gravy (Stoved)Slice or shred 1 or 2 oz . of fat, place it

at the bottom of a saucepan, cover with 2 to


SOUPS

Pot-au-Feu made with Ox Cheek

(A SOUP AND A MEAT DISH )Materials .

—1 lb . ox cheek, lb . carrots,1; lb . cabbage, 6 oz . turnips, 4 oz . shreddedbread

,4 oz . onion, 2 oz . celery, oz . salt,

2 quarts of water, 2 leeks, a pinch of pepper .

Method. :—Cut the ox cheek into six slices,

place in the boiling water, add salt, andSimmer for 1 hour . Then add the carrots,turnips

,cabbage, leeks, onion and celery,

and cook until done . Remove the vege

tables . Dish up the meat , garnish with thebest parts of the vegetables, cut the re

mainder small and return to the liquid,season

,and add a pinch of pepper . Toast

the shredded bread in the oven and serveseparately, or add to the soup before serving,or prepare dumplings and add them to thesoup and boil for 10 minutes .Serve the soup first, then the meat and

vegetables, with steamed potatoes in theirjackets .

Farmers’ Soup

Materials . lb . mixed vegetables, lb .

shredded potatoes, 2 oz . toasted bread,i oz . salt, quarter-teaspoonful freshly ground


pepper, 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley, 1

quart of water, 1 oz . fat .

Method.— Place the fat in a saucepan to

melt, then shred the vegetables and addthese to the fat but do not mix . Sprinklelightly with salt and cover .

~

Let the vege

tables cook over a gentle heat until thewater contained in the vegetables flows ,then mix with a spoon . Let the mixtureevaporate until the vegetables take a verylight colour at the bottom of the saucepan,then cover with the water and salt and boil .Add the potatoes, and b oil until the wholeis tender . Toast the Shredded bread andplace in a soup tureen

,adding the pepper .

Taste the soup , correct the seasoning ifnecessary, and pour over the bread, addingthe chopped parsley .

Dumplings may be added to the soupinstead of bread, or small savoury balls .The reader will observe that the pepper is

not cooked but added just at the last .

Onion Soup

Materials .— 1 oz . fat, 4 oz . onion, oz .

flour, 1 quart water, 3 oz . bread, 2 oz . cheese

(grated ), 1 oz . salt .

Method.—Shred the onion and fry in the


fat to a light colour . Add the flour, and baketogether until a nice brown . Add the waterand salt and cook for 15 minutes . Cut the

bread in slices i inch thick and toast placethese in an earthenware casserole, Sprinklewith grated cheese and pour the soup over .

(The onion may be removed and used elsewhere . ) Sprinkle again with grated cheeseand bake in the oven until of a golden brown .

Cabbage and Onion Soup

Materials . lb . cabbage, lb . potatoes,2 oz . onion, 1 oz . fat , 2 oz . Shredded bread ,11; oz . salt , 3 pints of water , pepper to taste .

Method.-Cut the onion into halves, shred

crossways and fry in the fat . Cut the

cabbage in four , remove outside leaves andstalk, wash and drain thoroughly

,shred

finely, add to the onion, and sweat for10 to 15 minutes . Add the potatoes, saltand water and cook for 30 minutes, thenadd the bread, and a little pepper if liked .

In place of the bread 1 oz . of rice can beused, picked, washed and parboiled andadded to the soup 15 minutes before serving

,

or 1 oz . vermicelli parboiled and added 5

minutes before serving, or macaroni brokeninto 2-inch pieces parboiled and then cookedfor 20 minutes .


Minestroni

Materials . lb . vegetables, 2 oz . Frenchbeans, 2 oz . fresh peas, 2 oz . macaroni orrice, 2 oz . cheese, 3 pints of water, oz .

sa lt , 2 tablespoonfuls of oil .Method —Heat the oil in a saucepan, add

the vegetables finely shredded and fry alltogether slightly . Cover with the water,add the salt and cook till nearly done . Thenadd the peas and French beans cut up andcook until done . (In winter u se haricotbeans and split-peas (soaked ) and add atthe same time as the other vegetables . )Fifteen minutes before the finish add the

macaroni or rice, or 1 oz . of each . B eforeserving, Skim the soup and add the followingpreparation : 1 oz . raw fat bacon, scrapedas beef is scraped for beef-tea , 1 tea

spoonful fresh herbs, pepper, a clove ofgarlic .

Mix the bacon with the herbs and a pinchof pepper and the clove of garlic . Stiruntil thoroughly melted, and then serve atonce . Omit ~the garlic if not liked .

Freshly grated cheese is handed with thesoup , or 2 oz . may be added to the soup withthe bacon .


Cabbage and Potato Soup

Materials — 4 oz . onion, 1 oz . fat, 5 lb .

cabbage, l lb . raw sliced potatoes, oz . salt,1 quart of water, 2 oz . toasted and shreddedbread .

Method.— Shred the onion and place in a

saucepan with the fat . Add the shreddedcabbage, and sweat all together until itbegins to set at the bottom (see recipe forVegetable Stock , p . Then add the rawpotatoes . Cover with the water, add salt,and cook until tender (from 30 minutes to1 hour ) . Season to taste, and serve with thetoasted and shr edded bread .

Vegetable Puree

MaterialSr —é lb . vegetables, pint ofcooked pulse or 2 oz . raw rice, 1 quart ofwater, oz . salt, 1 teaspoonful of potato orcorn flour, 1 gill of milk .

Method. Sweat the vegetables asdirected in farmers’ soup (see p .

When ready, add the cooked pulse or rawrice, cover with water, add salt, and cookfor 30 minutes . Drain the liquor off thevegetables and pass the drained vegetablesand rice or pulse through a mincing-machine,and then return to the liquid . Mix the


potato or corn flour smoothly in the milk,bring the soup to the boil, then add the

thickened milk and bring to the boil again .

Taste and correct the seasoning, addinga little freshly ground pepper and 1 tablespoonful of cooked rice or any other garnish .

Mulligatawny SoupMaterials .

— 4 oz . shredded onion, 1 oz .

fat, oz . curry powder, 2 oz . rice, 1 oz .

chopped chutney, oz . sa lt , 1 or 2 tomatoes,1 small sour apple, bunch of aromatic herbs,half a lemon, 3 or 4 crushed cardamon seeds ,1 quart of water or stock, 1 teaspoonfulof corn flour, 1 tablespoonful cooked rice forgarnish .

Method.— Fry the omon with the fat ,

and as soon as the onion begins to cook add

the curry powder and fry together . Coverwith the water or stock, add the rice,chutney,

tomatoes, the apple cut finely,

cardamon seeds,herbs and salt . Cook for

30 to 40 minutes . Drain off the liquid,pass the drained material through a mincer,return to the liquid and thicken with the

corn flour. Taste and correct the seasoning,add the lemon juice, and garnish withcooked rice .


Salsify and Barley Soup

Materials .—3 oz . pearl barley, 4 oz . onion,

1 oz . fat, oz . salt, half a bundle of salsify,half a lemon, 1 gill of milk, faggot of savouryherbs, 1 quart of water .

Method.— Soak the barley for 24 hours .

Sweat the onion and fat in a saucepanand cover with water . Add the soakedbarley, bring to the boil, and then add thesalt and herbs . Scrape and wash the salsify,cut into chips, and place in the soup with thelemon juice cook till tender— about 1 houror more . Drain the liquid ; pick out 1

tablespoonful of barley and also 1 dozenor more salsify chips, pass the remainderthr ough a mincing-machine and return to thesoup . Add the milk, correct the seasoning,and put the reserved barley and salsify intothe soup .

Marrow Soup

Materia ls — 4 oz . shredded onion, 1 oz .

fat, 2 oz . maize semolina, 1 lb . vegetablemarrow, 1 pint of milk, 1 pint of water , apinch of sugar , salt and pepper .

Method. Sweat the onion in the fat,add the vegetable marrow cu t into slices ,cover and Simmer till the marrow is melted .


green parts , which are too strong to u se) boilin the water, and when cooked, pass througha strainer . Sweat the strips of leek inthe fat without colouring them, then coverwith the water in which the leeks wereboiled . Add salt . Mix the arrowrootsmoothly with the milk, add the yolks ofeggs, nutmeg and pepper . When the soupis ready and is reduced to 1 pint, add the

thickened milk, etc . , and stir over the fire

until creamy, but do not boil . Add the

parsley , and serve with Sippets of bread .

Pea-Pod Soup

Materials . peck of peas, 1 oz . fat, 2oz . leeks (or onion), 1% oz . flOur, 1 pint milk,1 quart water, 1% oz . rice or barley flour or1 oz . tapioca, i oz . salt .

Method.—Take the pods of the peas,

remove the strings, and boil freely in saltedwater until tender . Put the fat and leekinto

‘

a saucepan and stew till tender , thenadd the flour

,and cook for 5 minutes without

allowing it to colour . Make into a whitesauce with the milk and the purée made from

pea-pods by pounding in a mortar and passing

through a sieve . If there is no mortaravailable, it will do to scrape the soft part


from the skins of the pods and strain thisthrough a sieve . Cook for 15 minutes,season to taste , add a few peas and a pinchof sugar, and bring to the correct consistency .

If too thick, add milk or stock . The

thickening may be varied by using rice flour ,barley flour or tapioca . The rice or barleyflour should be diluted with cold milk, andthen added by degrees to the boiling liquor,then cooked for 15 to 20 minutes . Tapioca

(French or granulated ) is added 10 minutesbefore the soup is required . English tapiocashould be crushed fine, put through a sieveand soaked in milk, and cooked in the soup .

Leek and Potato Soup

Materials .—4 oz . leeks, 1 oz . fat, 12 oz .

potatoes (shredded ), 1 quart water, 1 gill milk,1Yolk of egg, dried or fresh, or omit altogether,bunch of savoury herbs, grate of nutmeg

,

salt, pepper and a little chopped parsley .

Method.- Shred the leeks and stew in fat .

Add potatoes, herbs, the water and salt .

Cook freely until done . Place the yolk ofegg in a soup tureen, add the milk and a littlegrated nutmeg, and stir well, then addthe soup (slowly at first ), and a pinch offreshly ground pepper and chopped parsley.

SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY, SAUCES .35

Shredded toasted bread is served with the

soup .

Fish Soup (Soup and Fish Dish)

Materials . 1 whiting, l mackerel, 1

sliced onion,2 oz . finely chopped onion

, 1

sprig of thyme, bay leaf, 6 peppercorns,l tablespoonful oil, 1 tablespoonful salad oil,1 lemon, 1 clove, l mace (size of a pea ), 2chopped tomatoes, herbs and parsley, 1

quart of water or stock, 3; oz . salt, pepper .

Method.—Cut the fish into pieces of 2 oz .

each . With the heads, etc . , make a fishstock as follows : Pour the oil into the

saucepan, add the onion, bay leaf, thyme,

lemon juice, peppercorns, clove, mace anda little salt . To this add the fish trimmings, and sweat until a j elly is formed atthe bottom of the pan, then add the water,a few Sprigs of parsley, and cook for 20

minutes, then strain . Place the salad oil

in a saucepan, and in this fry the choppedonion

,adding the tomatoes and herbs

,then

the fish . Cover with the stock, and add thesalt and a ' good pinch of mignonette pepperboil freely for about 15 minutes . Place threeSlices of toast , 15 oz . each , in a soup tureenand pour the soup over . Serve the fishseparately to follow with boiled potatoes .


Eel Soup

Materials — é lb . eel,2 oz . onions

, 2 oz .

rice flour, 1 gill milk, 1 quart water, i oz .

salt,1 tablespoonful parsley and chervil

,

1 tablespoonful oil, pepper, a handful of

Method.— Cut the eel into slices inch

thick, chop the onions, sorrel, parsley andchervil . Fry all together in the oil, andwhen this is done add the rice flour mixedsmoothly in the milk and sufficient waterto make 1 quart . Stir until it boils, seasonwith salt and a little freshly ground pepper .

Simmer over gentle heat until the eel iscooked . Serve with Sippets of bread .

Mashed potato could be used instead ofrice flour to thicken .

Fish Soup (Mock Bou illabaisse)

Materials — 1 or 2 lb . of fish,—herring ,

mackerel , whiting and mussels, —1 leek,

1 onion, toasted bread, pinch of savoury

spice or herbs, 1 clove of garlic, 1 or 2

tomatoes, 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley,1 tablespoonful of clarified fat or oil, juice

of lemon .

Method.—Chop the leek, onion and clove


of garlic very finely, and fry in the fat, thenadd the tomatoes (peeled and coarselychopped), parsley and a pinch of savourySpice or herbs . Cut the fish into piecesweighing about 2 to 3 oz . each— for instance,1 herring cut into three pieces , 1 mackerelcut into four , 1 whiting cut into three , anda handful of mussels thoroughly cleansed .

Place all in a dish , cover with well-seasonedfish stock and the juice of a lemon, bringto the boil, cover with a lid, and boil freelyfor 20 minutes .

Toast as many pieces of bread , cutinch thick, as there are persons, place thesein a soup tureen and pour the fish liquidon the top . Serve all together, or the soupfirst, followed by the fish accompanied bypotatoes . A sauce may be served with thefish if desired .

This recipe provides a soup and a fishdish , which looks best when served in the

casserole in which it was cooked .

Fish Mock Turtle Soup

(MADE W ITH A COD’s HEAD )

Materials .—Cod’s head, 4 oz . onions, 4 oz .

carrot , 1 tablespoonful oil, 1 lemon, 1 teaspoonful basil

,half-teaspoonful marj oram,


1 clove of garlic, 1 bay leaf and equalamount thyme, 1 dozen peppercorns

,

6 allspice, 1 dozen corianders, 1 bunchparsley stalks, 3 pints water, 3 oz . baked

Method.— Slice the onions and carrot and

place in a saucepan with the garlic,oil

,

bay leaf, thyme, peppercorns, allspice,corianders and parsley stalks . Cut the

cod’s head into pieces—e.g . (1 ) Tongue,(2 ) top of the head, (3) and (4) checks,

(5 ) and (6) shoulders if left on the head .

Place the trimmings on the bed of vegetables,and arrange the pieces of cod’s head on thetop ; sprinkle with salt . Add the lemonjuice, cover with a lid, and simmer untilthe fish is cooked in its own liquor . Carefully lift the pieces of cod out of the panand keep warm with a little stock . Removethe liquid of the fish, which reserve untillater, now add the water to the remainingbones, etc . , boil, then cook for 10 minutes .Strain the liquid , make it up to 1 quart, towhich add the flour (baked dry in an ovenuntil it is fawn coloured ), and whisk the

stock to separate the flour, which does notlump after baking . B oil for 10 minutes .Now add the basil and marj oram and the

reserved fish liquid, season to taste, and


add a pinch of cayenne pepper . Simmerfor 5 minutes more, then strain . Servewith cut lemOn .

The fish used for the making of the soupcan be served to follow the soup with afish sauce and potatoes, or can be used forfish pi es, patties, cakes, salads and manyother dishes . The heads of other fish canbe used equally well for the purpose, butcod’s head has a large amount of gelatine,which of course is required to make thiskind of soup .

Fish Cream Soup (without Cream)

(MADE FROM A COD’s HEAD )

Materials — 1 cod’s head, 1 quart of water,1 oz . salt, 2 oz . rice flour, 1

2» pint milk, a

little nutmeg and paprika or cayennepepper, garnish of rice, macaroni, vegetables,Sippets, fish balls, or parsley, etc .

Method—Prepare the cod’s head as ex

plained for the mock turtle soup (see p .

When the essence is rendered, strain it intoa basin, then cover the fish bones with the

“

water, season with salt ,,

bring to the boil,and Simmer for 10 minutes . Now drainthe liquid from the fish , and be sure to drain


SAUCES

Sauce without Fat

Nata—It may happen that a sauce isneeded when no fat can be spared . In thatcase sauce may be made as followsTake some flour and mix it to a smooth

cream with enough cold liquid, which may bestock or water or milk , or milk and water,according to the sauce needed . B oil theremainder of the liquid and add the mixedflour

,stirring until it boils . Then season,

and finish as directed .

White Sauce

Materials .—$2L oz . fat, 13; oz . flour, 5 pint

milk, salt and pepper, grated nutmeg .

Method.—Mix the fat with the flour cold,

add milk, salt, pepper, and a pinch of gratednutmeg, place on a small flame withoutstirring until it comes to the boil, whiskquickly to produce at once a smooth sauce .

Made in this way the sauce does not requirestraining there will be no lumps .

Curry Sauce

MaterialS. oz . onion, 1 tablespoonfuloil, 1 teaspoonful curry powder, 5 oz . flour,


juice of half a lemon, half a chopped apple,1 teaspoonful chutney, pint of water .

Method.-Fry the onion in the oil, and

when beginning to colour add the currypowder and flour and fry until lightlycoloured . Add the water, lemon juice, appleand chutney ; season and cook until pintis left .

Bread Sauce

Materials —2 oz . stale bread, pint milk,1 onion, salt, 1 clove, maceMethod.

—B reak the bread and place incold milk to soak . Add a small onion intowhich a clove has been stuck, a tiny pieceof mace, and a little salt . B ring to the

boil slowly, and simmer till the onion iscooked . Remove the onion, whisk the

sauce or pass it through a sieve . Taste,correct the seasoning, and serve very hot .

Imitation Bread Sau ce

Materials — l» gill semolina or white maizemeal, 1 pint of milk, 1 small onion stuck witha clove, tiny piece of mace and pinch ofsalt , pepper .

Method.—Soak the semolina or maize

meal in the milk, adding the onion, mace and

SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY , SAUCES 43

salt . B ring to the boil, and place in adouble cooker for 1 hour (having removedthe clove from the onion), pass through asieve . Finish with a little cayenne or pepper .

Lyonnaise Sauce

Materials — 4 oz . onion, 1 oz . fat, !fl} oz .

flour,1 pint water, pinch of Spice and salt ,

1 tablespoonful vinegar, pinch of pepper,half-teaspoonful chopped parsley .

Method.— Cut the onion into slices and

fry with the fat . As soon a s the onionbegins to colour add the flour, stir and fryuntil a fawn colour is obtained . Cover withwater ; add Spice and salt, boil, and thenlet simmer , stirring till the required thickness is obtained, and skimming the fat asit rises to the surface . (This fat must beplaced in a basin with water so that it canbe collected and added to the store of cookingfat . ) Add the vinegar, simmer 10 minuteslonger, and then add pepper and parsley andserve .

Tomato Sau ce

Materials —1 oz . onion, é lb . freshtomatoes, 1 tablespoonful fat or salad oil,a small clove of garlic, water to make 2pint ,3oz . flour, a pinch of Spice, salt and cayenne .


Method— Fry the onion in salad oil, addthe flour and cook for a few minutes, thenadd the tomatoes, peeled and chopped (thepips removed ), Spice, sa lt, cayenne and garlic,and sufficient water to make g pint in all .Cook slowly till pint is left . Taste, andcorrect the seasoning if necessary, and servevery hot .

Chasseur Sauce

Materials — 2 oz . onion, 2 oz . mushrooms,1 tablespoonful oil, 72pint water , oz . bakedflour, pinch of pepper, spice and salt , 1

tablespoonful tomato purée or juice, 1

teaspoonful chopped herbs, parsley andtarragon, a few drops lemon juice .

Method.—Chop the onion, slice the mush

room, and fry them together in the oil .When nicely coloured cover with the water,add the flour (baked to a light fawn colour ),spice, salt and tomato purée or juice offresh tomato, and cook until pint is left .

Add the herbs, parsley and tarragon, pinchof freshly ground pepper and lemon juice .

Italian Sauce

Prepare a sauce as directed for Lyonnaise

(see p . chopping the onion finely


add 2 oz . finely chopped mushrooms and, ifavailable , 1 tablespoonful chopped lean ham .

Robert Sau ce

Prepare a Lyonnaise sauce (p . cuttingthe onion in small dice instead of slices .

When the sauce is finished add 1 teaspoonfulof made mustard and one or two slicedgherkins .

Bercy Sauce

Materials .— Melted butter sauce made with

fish stock, 1 teaspoonful chopped shallot,quarter-teaspoonfu l chopped parsley .

Method.-Prepare the melted butter sauce

with fish stock , in which the shallot has beencooked . Add the parsley, make hot andSCI

‘

VC .

Devil Sauce

Add to a Lyonnaise sauce (p . 43) halfteaspoonfu l of freshly ground pepper and alittle Worcester sauce and ketchup .

Mornay Sauce

Add to a white sauce (p . 41 ) 1 oz . gratedcheese and stir till dissolved .


Melted Butter Sauce

Same as white sauce, but u se water instead of milk, omit the nutmeg, and add afew drops of lemon juice .

Fish Sauce

Materials — 1 gill fish stock, 1 gill milk1 teaspoonful corn flour .

Method—To the boiling fish stock orliquor from steamed fish add the milk

,in

which the corn flour has been smoothlymixed, stirring all the time until it thickens,but do not boil . Season to taste . Parsley

,

capers, anchovy or other garnish can be

added according to requirements .

Custard Sauce

Materials — l oz . either corn flour,potato

flour , arrowroot or a mixture of all, suffi

cient egg colour to give the desired colour

(egg colouring is sold by most grocers),1 pint boiling milk, 1 oz . sugar

,flavour

essence, a pinch of salt .

Method—Mix the flour and egg colouringwith a tablespoonful of milk until smooth

.

B oil the remainder of the milk with the sugarand pour over the flour mixture

,stirring


all the time . Add a pinch of salt andflavouring essence . Stir until well mixed,and serve hot or cold .

Parsnip Sauce (Sweet)

Materials — 1 lb . parsnip, 1 pint water ,1 oz . j am, oz . corn flour, lemon or almondessence, little cochineal .Method.

—Clean and bake the parsnip

(rolled in a Sheet of paper ) until tender ;pass through a mincer with skin and all .Place the parsnip in the water and boil15 minutes, adding the j am ; colour withcochineal and strain, pressing all the liquorout of the parsnip . Thicken this with cornflour mixed smoothly in a little of the cookedliquid

,and add essence to flavour . After

the corn flour is added the sauce should besimmered for 10 minutes .

Mayonnaise Sauce without Eggs

Materials — 1 tin of condensed milk orpint fresh milk

, 1 oz . starch , corn flour orpotato flour

,a little oil, gill strong vinegar,

half-teaspoonful mustard, salt and a dust ofcayenne pepper .

Method.—Mix the starch or flour with the

C H A P T E R I I I

FRESH, DRIED FRESHWATERFISH

There are but two kinds of cooking— good and bad .

C H A P T E R I I I

FRESH,DRIED AND FRESHWATER

FISH

Methods of Cooking Fish

WHEN fish is boiled in water the waterturns milky . This is caused by extractsfrom the fish, which are washed out of itinto the water during the process of cooking .

The water is heavily salted to give flavour tothe fish, which is not very pronounced whenso cooked . The water, being too salt forany other u se, is then thrown away with theextracts from the fish, and consequentlyvaluable food is lost . When fish is placedon a dish and then steamed, all the juicethat is lost during the process of steaming isreceived in the dish ; made into sauce it isthus recovered and so much nutriment issaved, and the flavour is retained . Verylittle salt is required when cooking in thismanner . It is better, however, that slicedfish, before steaming, should be placed for


a few minutes in boiling water in order toseal it up and conserve all the nourishmentin it . This sealing also prevents the un

attractive skim which otherwise forms onthe surface of the fish . It is generallybelieved that steaming takes longer thanboiling, but that is not the case .

B aked or roast fish is excellent, particularlythose containing much fat ; but also insipidfish such as bream, which when boiled istasteless

,is excellent when roasted . Fresh

water fish is admirable food, and should beused more than has been customary, particu larly pike, which in texture is not unlikemeat . It is best served in pies, stuffing,quenelles and puddings . Perch is a mostdelicate fish steamed or fried ; eels are veryrich in fat and are best stewed or fried .

Fish soup made with a variety of fish, withpotatoes and vegetables added, supplies atonce soup and fish and vegetables -a one

dish dinner, in fact . (See Chap . II . , p .

Do not despise salt herrings (Governmentpickled herrings ), for they are very nourishing . They should be stewed or steamed .

When bo iled they break up to a mash .

They must not be soaked too long—12 to24 hours is enough for the good qualityScotch herrings .

FISH 53

Fish is valuable food ; the herring,mackerel, salmon, eels are rich in fat , andare more nutritious than white fish , irrespective of price . The sole and turbot are

not more nutritious than cod , haddockor hake . They are considered finer fish ,are more in demand, and consequently the

prices are higher, but the fish of the highestfood value for money spent is the herring,fresh or pickled .

The following recipes are chiefly foreign,and such as cannot be found in ordinarycookery books . They make a pleasingchange from the plain boiled (which , as hasbeen explained, is an extravagant method ofcooking) or fried (there is seldom enough fatto spare for frying) generally served in thiscountry .

Fish Pie

(DELI CI OUS HOT OR COLD)

Materials — Fresh herring or mackerel,

1 lb . cod-fish, 2 oz . bread, 8 oz . mashed potato,4 oz . rice flour , 4 oz . self-raising flour

,a few

slices of onion, little lemon juice, spice, sa lt ,pepper and nutmeg, 1 gill of milk, 1 tablespoonful salad oil .Method.

—Fillet a fresh herring or smallmackerel . Place the Slices of onion in a small


saucepan, arrange the herring and roe on thetop , sprinkle with lemon juice, add a littleSpice and salt, cover with a lid and sweat

(that is cook gently ) until done . Removebone and skin from the cod-fish and thenpass it through a mincer . Soak the bread inthe milk and boil it . Separate the best partsof the herring and the roe, which reserve forlater u se, and remove all bones . All the

remainder of the fish and the onion, also thelemon juice, place with the cod and breadpanada . Season well with salt, pepper andspice, and just a grate of nutmeg . Mix all,and pass through the mincer once or twice,so that the whole is perfectly mixed . Make apaste of themashed potato, salad oil and salt ,and mix thoroughly . Now add the riceflour, which mix well with the potato, thenadd the self-raising flour, and mix the wholeto a stiff paste . Water will only be requiredif the potatoes are very dry . B e careful,however, not to add too much, or the pastewill be doughy after baking .

Grease a raised pie-tin, line it with the

paste by placing a piece of dough in the

centre of the pie-tin and working it up againstthe Sides to an equal thickness all over .

Place a layer of fish preparation in the

bottom of the dish, arrange the filleted fish

FISH 55

and roe on this, cover with fish farce, andrepeat until three-quarters full .Roll out the paste for the top, and cut

it out with a cutter to the size required .

Place it on the top , press the sides welltogether, cut away excessive paste, fringethe edges and make a hole in the centre .

Leave for 1 hour and then cook in a hotoven for 20 minutes to bake the cru st .

When this is done bake very slowly to cookthe inside . For 1 lb . fi lling, 1 hour in allis required ; for a larger or smaller , prorata .

When the pie is to be served cold, preparea fish jelly by adding gelatine to a fishstock sufficient to form a cutable jelly .

Pour this into the pie by the centre holewhen cooked, and let it set .

Forp atties, cut the roe and fillet up andmix with the fish preparation which iscalled farce .

”

This is, as the reader will have observed ,quite an inexpensive dish, yet it is one

often sold at a high price by first-classcaterers .This proves that it is skill and not ex

pensive material which is the first necessityin the kitchen .

FISH 57

of dry pulse purée (cooked and sieved pea s,beans, etc . ) and 1 oz . of mashed potato .

4 . Fish prepared as for fish pie (see p .

which can be blended with mushrooms andtomatoes, prepared as in recipes 2 and 3

,

or fish and bread panada, or rice panada,thoroughly mixed together and worked toform an elastic body .

Fish Cakes (Baked)

Materia ls .—Fish bones and heads, mashed

potatoes in equal quantity, a few maizecrumbs , salt, pepper and nutmeg, anchovysauce, batter made with oil .

Method.—When fish stock has been made

with fish bones and heads, a considerableamount of fish remains on the bones, which,even after the stock has been extracted,has a large percentage of the food valueleft in it . The fish should be carefullypicked with a fork, and all the skin and boneremoved . These pickings should then be

drained on a cloth to extract the moistureand afterwards mixed with an equal quantityof dry mashed potato

,seasoned with sa lt,

pepper, and nutmeg, and a little anchovysauce added to improve the fish flavour .

The mixture should be made into balls and


then coated with a light batter (see p . 233)and rolled in maize crumbs, pressed flat

,

then placed on a baking tin and baked ina hot oven . They should be tu rned whennecessary, so that they colour evenly .

Pan Fish

Materials . 1h . cooked fish , 2 oz . onion,

1 oz . rice, 4 oz . mashed potato, 1 tablespoonful oil or 1 oz . fat, breadcrumbs .

Method.-Shred or chop the onion and

fry to a golden colour in half the fat . B oilthe rice plain ; mix all the ingredientstogether, season well, place in a gratin dish,sprinkle with breadcrumbs and oil, and bake .

Baked Fish (Whole or Filleted)

Materi als .—Fish, clarified fat or oil,

anchovy or chopped capers and herbs,potato or corn flour, a little chopped par sley,a little salt, a little water or fish stock .

Method.-If a whole fish is baked, it is

best to stuff it (for Stu ffings, see p .

then place it on a greased fireproof dish,season with salt , and baste with a little oilor melted clarified fat . Put it in the ovenand bake, basting it from time to time .

When coloured and not quite cooked, cover

FISH 59

with a grease-proof paper or a turned-overdish . Do not place a paper over the fishuntil set , otherwise it will stick, and the

appearance of the fish will be spoiled . Whencooked , remove the fish , rinse the dish withwater or fish stock, and add a little anchovyor chopped capers and herbs . Reduce tothe quantity required by boiling, thickenwith potato or corn flour (first mixed smoothlyin cold water ) , season to taste, and pourover the fish . Make hot, and serve on thedish in which it was cooked , sprinkled withchopped parsley if liked . The liquid fromthe fish may be used as a foundation forvarious kinds of sauce, such as tomato,mushroom, brown onion sauce, etc . etc .

Steamed Fish

Fish should never be boiled,as in that

way much valuable food is lost . It shouldbe steamed instead . Place it on a dish andcover with a grease-proof paper so that allthe essence extracted from the fish is re

ceived on the dish, and the paper preventscondensed water from falling from the lidof the pan on to the fish and into the liquorwhich comes from it as it cooks . If thefish is cut in slices it should always first be


dipped into boiling water for a few minutesto seal it up . This prevents the juices fromcovering the fish and coagulating on the

surface in a milky skin, thereby spoilingthe appearance of the fish , particularlysalmon, which should be a bright pinky-red

colour when. cooked .

Cut fish is cooked when the spine can beeasily removed , and large j oints of fish when,on pricking with a needle, no resistance isfelt . The juice left in the dish must beused to make the sauce, which at present ,now fat is so scarce, can be thickened witha little corn or potato flour diluted in coldmilk or water and then added to the boilingliquid . About oz . per pint of liquid isrequired . (For Sauces, see Chap . II . )

Baked Fillet of Fish in Batter

Materials — Fillet of fish , frying batter .

Method.-Fillet the fish and cut in neat

strips, season with salt,coat with stiff

frying batter (see p . Drain well, placeon a greased baking-tin, and bake in a hotoven until brown .

The same can be crumbed with maizecrumbs (see p . 231 ) and baked to a goldenbrown .

‘FISH 61

Whiting or other Fish’

an Gratin

Materials —Whiting or other filleted fish ,2 oz . chopped mushrooms, 1 oz . choppedonion

, 1 dessertspoonful of oil, half-teaspoonful chopped herbs or parsley, 1 gill of brownsauce (see p . salt and pepper, a

‘

few

drops of lemon juice, a few breadcrumbs.Method— Fry the onion in the oil, add

the mushrooms, chopped herbs or parsley,and also the brown sauce ; season to ta ste .

Clean the whiting and fillet the fish . Put 1

tablespoonful of sauce at the bottom of afireproof dish , place the fish in it, Sprinklewith salt and a few drops of lemon juice,cover with the sauce, scatter lightly withcrumbs, and bake for about 20 minutes,until the fish is cooked . Sprinkle withchopped parsley and a few drops of lemonjuice .

Mackerel and Rice

Materials — 1 mackerel, 1 tablespoonful ofoil, - 1 teaspoonful of chopped onion, 1

teaspoonful of chopped herbs, 1 teaspoonfulof paprika pepper, 1 or 2 tomatoes,qce ofhalf a lemon

,4} pint of rice, 3 pint of fish

Method.—Clean the mackerel and cut


it into pieces . Fry them in the oil, andadd to this the onion, herbs, tomatoes

(chopped finely ), the paprika and lemonjuice and a few Sprigs of saffron, if liked .

Then add the rice, and cover with 2 pint offish stock, or more, according to the qualityof rice, for the amount of liquid which ricewill absorb depends upon the kind of riceused . Season well, bring to the boil, andcook for 20 minutes .

Any other fish may be used, and currypowder added instead of paprika.

Halibut Portugaise

Materials —Slice of halibut, 1 inch thick,little chopped parsley, salt and pepper, juiceof a lemon, 1 tomato, little finely choppedonion, 2 teaspoonfuls fish stock or water .Method.

—Season the halibut with saltand pepper and the j uice of half a lemon .

Let it stand for half an hour, then dip itinto boiling water to set , and place it in agreased dish . Add the tomato (the pipsand Skin removed and the flesh out small),onion, parsley, the remaining ju ice of thelemon and the fish stock or water . Coverwith a lid, and cook in the oven until done,allowing about 20 minutes . Thicken the

FISH 63

gravy,and Sprinkle the dish with chopped

parsley before serving .

Salmon Flamande

Materials —1 lb . salmon, 5 oz . carrot, j oz .

parsnip, l oz . celery, 1 oz . onion, I oz . clarifiedfat

,a pinch of salt and pepper, juice of half a

lemon, 2 tablespoonfuls of water or stock .

Method— Shred the carrot, parsnip, celeryand onion into strips, and mix with the

clarified fat and a pinch of salt . Coverand stew gently until tender . Season the

salmon with salt and pepper half an hourbefore required for cooking, and dip intoboiling water for a few minutes . Lay onthe bed of vegetables, adding the juice ofhalf a lemon and the water or stock . Coverwith a paper and cook until done, allowingabout 20 minutes . Drain the salmon, andremove the skin and centre bone —the skinis apt to be oily, and the dish looks moreappetising without it . Dish up the fish

sprinkled with chopped parsley, and pourthe vegetables and liquor over .

Grey MulletMaterials — Sharp sauce (see p .

mullet , little salt , little vinegar .

FISH 65

which the herrings were boiled . Toss , andallow to cool . Make a border of the rice,place the herrings in the centre, and servewith a mayonnaise sauce .

Soused Herrings or Mackerel (Hot or Cold)

Materials .—Herrings or mackerel

,a few

slices of onion to each fish , 1 clove, 6 peppercorns

, 2 allspice, a little salt, vinegar and

Method—Place the cleaned fish in a dishwith the onion, clove, peppercorns, allspiceand sa lt, and then to half the height of thefish add half vinegar and water . Coverwith a paper, and bake in a moderate ovenfor from 15 to 30 minutes .

Herring Olives Ragout

Materials —1 pickled herring filleted

a little bread stufling, 1 oz . carrot, 1 oz .

onion, 1 tablespoonful of oil, pint of water'

,

1 dozen small potatoes (olive size ), a littlesalt and spice, a little chopped parsley .

Method.—Soak the herring for 12 hours .

It is best to fillet the herring before soaking,

otherwise it is liable to go bad in the bone,

and if red, a piece of alum the size of a pea


may be added to whiten the fish , but thisShould be well washed away before cooking,by changing the water frequently . Drainthe herring on a cloth , remove all the bonesand the skin if desired . The Skin holds thefish together, so it is preferable to leave it on .

Place the herring fillets with the skin sideupward and the point toward you . Fill thecentre with bread stuffing, and roll the filletsup so as to enclose the stuffing . Skewer or tiewith string . Cut the carrot and onion intosmall pieces, fry lightly in the oil, and whenfried, add the

i

water . Cook freely until thevegetables are nearly done, then add the

potatoes ; season lightlywith salt and a pinchof Spice, and cook furtheruntil the potatoes arehalf cooked . Now place the stuffed fillets ofherring on the top of the ragout of vegetables,cover with a lid and stew till the fillets arecooked— about 15 minutes . Dish up the

fillets , remove the str ing Or skewers, correctthe seasoning and pour the ragout over thefillets . See that the potatoes are all roundthe fish . Sprinkle with chopped parsley .

Herring Olives with Rice

Materials .—Some herring fillets (the stuffed

fillets are called olives), 1 oz . finely chopped

FISH 67

onion, half-tablespoonful of salad oil, 1 gillof rice, 4) pint of fish stock, tomato saucb.

Method.—Fry the onion in the salad oil

,

add the rice, and stir to cover each grain withfat . Now add the fish stock, season to taste,and place the herring o lives, prepared as forolives ragout, in the liquid, bring to the bo il,cover with a lid and simmer for 20 to 25minutes . Remove the olives , take out theSkewers, dish up the rice and place the

olives on top . Pour tomato sauce round,

and a p inch of saffron may be added to therice .

When tomatoes are available, a peeled andchopped tomato :may also be added .

Baked Herring Olives (or Stuffed Fillets )

Materials —Herring olives prepared as forthe pickled herring ragout, a little batter,a few maize crumbs, a little fish sauce (seep . 46) or tomato sauce, Sharp sauce, an

chovy sauce (see pp . 43 and 45 ) or any otherdesired .

Method .— Steam the herring olives, coat

them with batter and maize crumbs, place ina greased dish and bake in a hot oven .

When nicely coloured , dish up and servewith the sauce .


Soused Herrings (Fresh or Salted)

Materials .—Fresh herrings, 1 tablespoonful

of vinegar for each herring, an equal quantityof water, a few peppercorns, a little salt andallspice, a few slices of onion, a little oil .Method — Remove the bone of the herring

by opening the back of the fish , and alsoremove the head . Roll the fish up andskewer to hold in shape . Place in a dishand add the vinegar, water, salt, peppercorns,allspice, onion and a slice of lemon (if available) . B aste very sparingly with oil, coverwith paper and bake slowly for 20 to 30

minutes . Let cool in the gravy, and whencold turn over .

If using Government pickled herrings soakas described on p . 52 (recipe for HerringOlives Ragout) and do not add salt .

Paupiettes of Herring and Tomato Sauce

Mawrials .-2 herrings, a little salt, pepper

and nutmeg, 2 oz . bread, half-teaspoonfulchopped herbs, 1% oz . fat, 3 tomatoes peeledand chopped, 1 egg (or 1 teaspoonful of flourto take the place of the egg ), a little fishstock, ,

1 onion, 1 teaspoonful of flour, a littlechopped parsley .

FISH 69

Method.—Fillet the herrings and remove

all bones, flatten slightly, remove the skinand season with pepper and salt . Soak thebread, squeeze dry and mix with the herbs,1 tomato, salt, pepper, nutmeg and egg (ora teaspoonful of flour ) . Place the fish on thetable, skin side upwards, divide the stuffingto the four fillets and roll up . Skewer andcook slowly for 15 minutes in a little fishstock made with the bones (see p .

Cut the onion into small dice and fry in 1 oz .

fat or a tablespoonful of oil, then add theremaining tomatoes and fish stock, in whichthe herring paupiettes were cooked, andcook until 1 gill is left . Thicken with alittle more fat and flour mixed— l teaspoonfulof each ; boil, season, remove the skewerfrom the fish and dish up . Sauce over andsprinkle with chopped parsley .

Dutch Herring Salad

MateriaLS.—Fillets of herring, 1 cold

potato, 1 apple, a few gherkins, beetrootand onions in equal amounts, 1 or 2 spoonfulsof mustard , a little oil and vinegar, hardboiled eggs .

Method.—Cut the potato into dice, to

gether with the apple, gherkins, beetroot,


onion all well seasoned, and then mix in themustard dressing made as follows : Placethe mustard In a ba sin and work this up withthe oil and vinegar to form a creamy saucelike a mayonnai se then put in the otheringredients and mix well . Arrange thissalad on an oblong-shaped dish and placefillets of herring over it . Use hard-boiledeggs and gherkins cut small to garnish .

‘Where oil is not available, see mayonnaiseowithout

'

oil, p . 48 .

l

Herring Fillets with Vegetables

Materia ls.—1 filleted fresh herring, 1

'

oz .

carrot, oz . onion, 1 teaspoonful of saladoil, 1 gill fish stock, juice of half a lemon,a little salt and pepper, a little choppedparsley .

Method,—Slice the carrot , cut the onion

in rings, and place in a.

small saucepan withthe salad oil ; Let this sweat for a fewminutes, but not fry add the fish stock andsimmer till the vegetables are cooked, andthen add the lemon juice . Fillet the herring,remove bones and arrange in a gratin dish,place the roe on the top , one on each filletseason with salt and a little pepper . Arranget he carrot and onion alternately on the top

FISH

of the roe and herring, then pour the liquidover all . Place in a moderate oven for 10to 15 minutes, sprinkle with chopped parsley,then serve without sauce, for the liquid issufficient , and there should be no more leftthan is required to moisten the fish . Ifdesired a border of cooked slices of potatocould be placed round the herrings béfore

the liquid is added, or plain boiled potatoesshould be served with the fish .

Filleted Gurnet and RiCe Portugaise .

Materials .—The fillets of 2 gurnets,

1 chopped onion, 1 chopped tomato, a littlechopped parsley, a bunch of herbs, a littleoil, 1 gill of rice (carefully pi

'

cked over ),1 tablespoonful of vinegar or lemon juice,Salt and pepper , a little water .

Method.—Fry the onion : in a little oil,

add the tomato, parsley and Iherbs . Placethe fillets of gurnet, preferably small-o nes;on this bed of vegetables, and cover withwater and either Vinegar or lemon juice .

Season with salt and pepper,and steam'

the

fish until nearly cooked . Remove the filletsand stir the rice into the liquid, whichshould cover it well . Rearrange the . filletson the top , cover with a paper and the lid,

FISH 73

this . Cut some J ulienne strips of onion,parsnip and parsley stalk, and fry in alittle fat without colouring them . Add

sufficient water to half cover the fish, andsalt at the rate of oz . per quart . B ringthe water to the boil, and then add the fish .

B oil fast at first , then, when nearly cooked,slower . (A perch of 1 lb . takes 20 minutes . )Dish up the fish , reduce the liquor untilthere is sufficient left to moisten the fish,then pour this over and serve .

Golden Bream

Materials .— 1 bream, a little chopped

onion and parsley, a little oil, 1 tomato,1 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, 1 or

'

2

finely chopped mushrooms, the juice of alemon, a little water, 1 oz . fat, 1 teaspoonfu lof flour .

Method.—Scale and fillet the bream, season

the fillets, sprinkle with the onion andparsley and baste with oil . Let the fishstand for

'

an hour or two to let the seasoningsoak in thoroughly . Now pour the oilfrom the fish into a baking dish , preferablyof stoneware, and when hot pass the filletsthrough this oil both sides, leaving them init with the skin Side upwards . Sprinkle


with the tomato and mushrooms, the lemonjuice and a little water, and bake in the

oven, basting from time to time. Whendone, mix the fat, flour and anchovy saucewith the gravy and baste again, then putback in the oven for a few minutes, andserve in the dish . If the gravy evaporatestoo quickly, add a little water .

Roast B ream with Tomato Sauce

Materials .— 1 bream, 2 oz . bread, oil for

basting, 5» oz . flour, a pinch of thyme, nutmeg, salt and pepper, 2 peeled and choppedonions, 3 peeled and chopped tomatoes,l -teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy essence, 1 egg, 121 pint of water .

Method.—Soak the bread, squeeze all the

water out ; add to this 1 teaspoonful ofchopped and fried onion and an equalquantity of parsley, a . pinch of thyme,

nutmeg, salt and pepper, al so 1 peeled andchopped tomato . B ind this with the eggand stuff the bream . Sew the belly up .

Place in a greased dish or tin, season withsalt and baste with oil then bake carefullyfor about 30 minutes, basting from time totime . When done, dish the fish up, and re

move the string . In the tin fry 1 chopped

FISH 75

onion, 2 peeled and chopped tomatoes, and

the pint of water . Cook until all the driedgravy from the bottom of the dish hasloo sened . Add the anchovy essence, mixthe flour with the remaining j oz . of fat ,and add this to the sauce . Stir till blended,and give only one boil . Correct the seasoning if necessary, pour over the fish, andsprinkle with chopped parsley . If anyliquor has run out of the fish into the dish ,

this must be added to the sauce and stirredwell in before the sance is put over . the dish .

Baked Bream with Devilled Mock Butter

Materials .—1 sea -water or fresh-water

bream, a little salt ,'

pepper and oil, 1 onion,a little made mustard, 1 tomato, 1 tea

spoonful -oi . Worcester sauce, 1 teaspoonful ' of mushroom ketchup , 1 teaspoonfu lof anchovy essence, a little chopped

aMethod.—Season the bream with salt and

pepper and baste with oil . Let lie in adish which will stand the heat of the ovenfor 1 hour

,so that the salt may penetrate

right through the fish . Place in the oven,and bake carefully

,basting from time to

time . Prepare, in the meantime, the follow


ing mock butter : Chop the onion finelyand cook in a little oil, add to this thetomato finely chopped, and cook until nearlydry, then add the Worcester sauce, mushroom ketchup , a little made mustard, andthe anchovy sauce, or a chopped Gorgonaanchovy, and a dust of freshly milled pepper .

Mix this, and when the fish is nearly donepour the mixture over it, and baste a fewminutes until the fish is cooked . Sprinklewith chopped parsley

,and serve in the dish

in which it is baked . The best accompani

ment to this fish is a boiled potato .

Eels with Mock Cream Sauce

Materials .—A few onions, 1 eel cut in

pieces, a little stock, seasoning and spice, alittle oil and grated horse-radish, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, a little unsweetenedcondensed milk .

Method.—Shred or chop the onions and

simmer in oil ; add the eel, seasoning andspice, and a little stock . Cook until the eel

is done, then dish up . Add to the liquorthe vinegar and horse-radish without furthercooking, which would destroy the horseradish flavour . Then warm up , and addsufficient unsweetened condensed milk to

FISH 77

make enough sauce to cover the eel . Correctthe seasoning and serve hot or cold .

Eels (Russian Style)

Materials .—1 eel, a few onions, 1 Sliced

carrot,a little oil , seasoning and aromatic

herbs, lb . tomatoes to each pound of eel,1 tablespoonful of vinegar .

Method.—Shred the onions and carrot

and simmer together in the oil . Add the

eel cut into pieces of about 2 inches long,the fins having been carefully trimmed, and

all together, then add the seasoning,aromatic herbs and the tomatoes

,peeled

and chopped finely (the seeds removed) .When the vegetable is cooked add the

vinegar, and Simmer for about 15 minuteslonger . If the dish is desired cold, servegarnished with gherkins .

Filleted Sole with Cucumber

Materials .—1 filleted sole (or any other

white fish ), a little salt , 1 egg , a few breadcrumbs, 1 cucumber , a little oil

,lemon

juice , a little coarsely-chopped parsley .

Method.—Season the filleted sole with

salt, brush over with egg and pass through


the breadcrumbs . Peel and slice the

cucumber as thick as half a crown . Heatsome oil in a frying-pan and fry the filletsto a light golden colour both sides then re

move, and fry the cucumber also . Dish up thefish and arrange the cucumber on the fillets

,

one overlapping the other . Sprinkle withparsley ; if necessary, add a little fat to whatis already in the frying-pan, brown it, thenadd the lemon juice and pour over the fish .

Creamed Crab,Lobster or Salmon (withoutCream)

Materials .—Fresh or tinned crab , a small

onion, 12. oz . fat, about 1 gill of milk, a fewdrops of lemon juice, 1 dessertspoonful offlour, half-teaspoonfu l of paprika pepper

,

quarter-teaspoonful of mustard, a little salt,a few drops of lemon juice, hot toast .Method.

—Chop the onion finely and frylightly in the fat ; add the flour and stiruntil thoroughly mixed and lightly coloured .

Add the pepper and mustard . Stir into thissufficient milk to obtain a thick sauce addtwice as much crab meat as there is sauce,well drain, season with salt, and simmer tillthoroughly hot . Add the lemon juice andserve on hot toast .

FISH 79

Fresh or tinned lobster or tinned salmonis excellent served in like manner .

K ipper Salad (Cold)

Materials .— 1 filleted kipper, 1 lettuce

,

some potato salad (see p . a few slicesof beetroot , a few hard-boiled eggs

,a little

chopped herbs, pepper and salad dressing,

a little chopped onion, 1 tablespoonful ofTarragon Vinegar .

Method.-Remove the skin and bones of

the kipper, place the fillets in an earthenwaredish and add the onion, pepper and vinegar .

Cover with paper and put in an oven for 10minutes, then let cool in the liquor . Shredthe lettuce and dr ess with a plain dressing .

Make a border with this, and place the

potato salad made with a cream dressingin the centre . Put the fillets of kipper ontop , sprinkle with chopped herbs and placequarters of hard-boiled eggs and slices ofbeetroot round .

Mussels and Rice

Materials .— 1 pint of mussels, 1 gill of

raw rice, 1 oz . chopped onion, 1 tablespoonful oi oil .Method.

-When the mussels are scraped

FISH 81

lemon juice, a little grated cheese orcrumbs .

Method.—Place the pieces of salmon in a

fireproof dish, previously lined with whitesauce . Add pepper to taste and lemonjuice, cover with white sauce and sprinklewith grated cheese, and bake in a hot ovenuntil brown .

The dish should be placed in anothercontaining water while cooking .

(2) Scalloped Salmon (for two Persons)

Materials .—Salmon, mashed potatoes, a

little oil, white sauce (p . cheese orbreadcrumbs, salt to taste .

Method.-Make a border of mashed

potatoes on a scallop shell by using aforcing bag and tube . Fill the centre withsalmon and white sauce mixed, well season ,

sprinkle the fish with crumbs or cheese,baste with oil, then bake to a mce brown

The Shells should be placed in such aposition that the sauce cannot run over .

The best method is to place the Shell in asmall heap of salt, which suffers nothing bybeing heated .


(3) Salmon Salad (for two Persons )

Materials .—A little green salad, mustard

and cress, chopped parsley and salad dressing

,potato salad or pulse, hard-boiled eggs,

some pieces of salmon, a little vinegar andbeetroot, mayonnaise sauce (see p . 47

Method.—Place the green salad, mustard

and cress, potato salad or pulse with the

salmon, previously seasoned and bastedwith vinegar . Cover with mayonnaise sauceand garnish with hard-boiled egg, beetrootand chopped parsley .

(4) Salmon Cakes (for two or three Persons )

Materials .—Trimmings of salmon

,an

equal amount of cold polenta (p . 1 egg,

a little salt, pepper, nutmeg, flour or crumbs,

and fat .

Method.-Mix the sa lmon

,previously

drained on a cloth, with the cold polenta,

to which add the egg, salt, pepper and nut

meg to taste (no parsley ) . When well mixedshape into cakes , flour or crumb them .

Place on a baking-sheet, brush over with fat,and bake in a hot oven until brown . Turnover if necessary .

FISH 83

(5) Sandwich Filling (for twelve SquareSandwiches )

Materials .—Salmon skins and bones, 1 oz .

fat, a little cooked dry rice and cochineal,salt, cayenne and anchovy essence .

Method.—Crush all skins and bones finely,

pass through a mincer three times, with anequal quantity of cooked dry rice . Add the

fat, salt, cayenne, anchovy essence and a fewdrops of cochineal . Pass through a sieve,place in a basin and u se for sandwiches .

Fish in Batter I

Cold boiled fish freed of Skins and bonesand flaked may be mixed with Yorkshirepudding and baked in a fireproof dish .

The batter may be made with or withouteggs .

C H A P T E R I V

MEAT DISHES

WITH BUT LITTLE MEAT

It is skill , not expensive materia l , which isthe first necessity in the k itchen .

C HAP T E R I V

MEAT DISHES

WITH BUT LITTLE MEAT

Methods of Cooking Meat

LARGE j oints are now obtainable only bylarge families and in restaurants and in

stitutions . As a ru le, small pieces of meathave to be dealt with , and the housewifeis never sure what part of an animal willbe available . She must be content to takewhat she can get , and learn to cook her

ration as economically as possible . Frying isan economical method of cooking, for anyjuices which escape are reclaimed when thegravy

'

is made, and the process is savingof fuel . Only tender meat , of course, canbe cooked in this way, such as steaks, filletsteak, sirloin, ribs, buttock, thick flankand certain parts of the shoulder . Cooksshould realise that meat thickly coveredby sinews is usually very tender ; leg ofbeef when scraped from between the sinews

87

MEAT DISHES 89

is cooked in its own juice, the fat is dissolved,and when the dish is done, if a little wateris added, there will be as much gravy as re

quired . The fat skimmed off is of coursereserved for other purposes . Cooked inthis manner, half a pound of lean meat fromwhatever part of the animal will produce1 pint of good gravy . As the strongestgravy contains only about 5 per cent . ofsolid extractions, there must remain in the

cooked meat the remainder of its originalfood value .

”

When stock is made frombones, there remains a certain amount ofgristle cooked tender, and also a smallportion of meat . If carefully collected, verynice made dishes, such as croquettes, rissoles,patties, potato meat cakes and sausagesmay be produced without much additionalexpense . It should also be known thatbones contain fat which, when stock is made,rises to the surface, so that bones producefat, stock and gristle, each of which mustbe used to the fullest advantage . Sausagescan be made with any kind of meat trimmings - liver, fat , meat , crusts of bread,beans, peas, etc . The materials should bepassed through the mincing-machine andthen fried or baked . They may be crumbedor rolled in paste, dipped in batter and then

90 THE VICTORY COOKERY B OOK

baked . No skins ‘

are required then, andfat for frying becomes superfluous . In making sausages the bread should not be squeezeddry, but simply drained so that equalweight of water and bread is used —8 oz .

of meat plus 4 oz . soaked bread-“ that is, 4 oz .

bread and 4 oz . water—make a better sausagethan that generally supplied by the butcher .

Instead of bread, biscuit meal (see p . 235 )may be used, or cooked porridge, and part ofthe meat may be cooked meat . For rissoles,rice or other cereal, or potato may be added ,and in this manner a large variety

'

of economical and nourishing dishes are produced .

When making meat pics the above remarksare also applicable . If, from lack of meat , afeeling of hunger is experienced, cheese ornuts are the items which should be addedin small proportions to the diet . Meat isconcentrated food, and it is therefore goodfor the general health of the country that itshould be used as sparingly as possible ; butas the desire for the quantity of meat towhich most people have been accustomedmust be satisfied, it should be served in sucha manner as to supply the necessary bulk .

The following recipes are arranged so thatsubstantial dishes result , although they contain but little meat .

MEAT DISHES 1

Sausages Made with Cooked Meat

Materials — Remains of cooked meat (fat,lean and gristle) , equal amount of crumbs,egg (1 egg to 1 lb . ) or 1 oz . flour, a littlefried chopped onion, a few drops of vinegar .

Method.—Mince the meat , add the crumbs,

moisten with egg, or instead of egg 1 oz .

of flour ; season well, and mix thoroughly .

Finish as directed for fresh sausages (p .

The onion and vinegar help to bring backthe flavour which the meat has lost .

Sausages can also be made by using halffre sh and half cooked meat .

Sau sage Rolls

Materials .— Sausage meat , Short paste .

Method.—Roll out some short paste (see

p . 183 ) and cut into oblong pieces of thesize desired . B rush over with cold water,place in the centre across a roll of sau sagemeat and fold over with the paste so thatthe ends meet . Press down the edges,prick the top once or twice, and bake in anoven hot at first and then cooled .

Fresh Meat Sau sage

Materials .—6 oz . of lean meat

, 2 oz . fat,

MEAT DISHES 93

Method.—Cut the fillets from the back,

flatten slightly, season with salt, a pinch ofpepper, and brush over with fat . Place ina casserole, cover it , and cook the fillets onboth sides without colouring, which will takeabout 5 minutes . Dish up , cover with sauce,and garnish with vegetables and potatoes .

The above may be egged, crumbed andfried, or grilled and served with salad .

(2) Quenelles of Rabbit (One Leg)

Materials .—1 leg of rabbit, 5 oz . fat, 2 oz .

bread panada ( see p . rice, salt, pepperand nutmeg, white sauce ( see p .

Method.-B one the leg and remove all

the sinews . Chop the meat finely togetherwith the fat and bread, season with salt

,

pepper , and nutmeg . I f a mortar . is available, pound the meat till thoroughly blendedwith the other ingredients, or put threetimes through a mincer to save time . Forminto the shape of quenelles . Simmer 10 to15 minutes in boiling stock or salted water .

Drain well . Serve on a bed of rice and poura creamy sauce over .

(3) Outlets of Rabbit (Second Leg)Materials .

—Same ingredients as for quen


elles, purée of peas as garnish, gravy ortomato sauce (see p .

Method.—Prepare the same as for quen

elles . Shape like cutlets ; egg, crumb andfry ; garnish with the peas (or any o thergarnish ), and serve with gravy or tomatosauce.

(4) Stewed Rabbit

Materials — 2 shoulders of rabbit, 2 piecesof back (near the neck), 1 oz . of fat, a littlecorn flour, salt and pepper, a few potatoes,1 small onion, stock .

Method.—Fry the pieces of rabbit lightly

in the fat and season with salt and pepper .

When browned, add a few potatoes cut intodice, and the onion . Fry all : together carefully . I i the rabbit is done before the

vegetables, remove it and cook the vege

tables longer . When done, dish up the

rabbit and garnish it with vegetables . R insethe pan out with sto

'

ck, cook till all gravyis dissolved, thicken slightly with corn flourmixed smooth with a littlewater and broughtto the boil . Add this to the boiling stock andstir together until clear . Pour over the rabbit .

This dish may be, like so many others,cooked and served in the one casserole tosave washing-up .

MEAT DISHES 5

(5 ) Rabb it Soup

Materials—Rabbit bones, 1 onion, 2 oz .

raw rice, salt , 3 pints water, 1 tea spoonfulcurry powder, oz . corn flour .

Method.—To make the bones into stock,

fry them with the onion and curry powderand cover with the water . Add rice andsalt and cook until the rice is tender . Todo this well takes one hour . Strain the

liquid into a basin and remove all the boneswith the meat . Crush the rice through asieve or mincer, return to the soup, correctthe seasoning, and thicken slightly with cornflour .

Patties (Four Small)

(MADE OF MEAT OFF B ONES USED FOR

SOUP )

Pick all flesh off the bones , chop finely,mix with tomato , brown or curry sauce

(see p . and place in patty cases or makeinto rissoles or other made dish .

Cobbler’s Pie

Materials (For Paste) . -3 oz . suet orclarified fat , 8 oz . self-raising flour, 8 oz .

dry mashed potatoes, a little salt and pepper .

MEAT DISHES 97

mixture as described for cobbler’s pie (seep . slices of cooked potato, a little fatto baste, a sprinkling of chopped parsley .

Method.— Line a tin plate with potato

pie crust . Prepare the mixture as describedfor cobbler’s pie ; fill the plate with this

,

and cover with Slices of cooked potato .

B aste with fat and bake to a nice colour .

Serve Sprinkled with chopped parsley .

Potato Pancakes with Bacon

Materials .-1 lb . raw potatoes, 4 oz .

bacon, 1 egg, juice of half,

a lemon,

lb .

self-raising flour, salt, pepper and nutmeg .

Method.—Place the lemon juice in a basin

,

and grate the potatoes into it . Add the

egg , salt , pepper and a little nutmeg,and

when mixed add the flour . First fry the

bacon, then u se the bacon fat to fry the

pancakes . This quantity will make about12 small pancakes . The potato pancakes canalso be served with sweet syrup, in which caseleave out the pepper and nutmeg . Withminced meat, cooked ham or cheese foldedinside, they make a good breakfast dish .

Potato Stew and Bacon

Materials .—1 lb . raw potatoes, 2 oz .


bacon, pint cold water, A; oz . flour, salt,pepper and savoury spice, 2 to 4 oz . onion,a little chopped parsley .

Method.— Cut the bacon into small blocks

and boil in sufficient water to cover for 1 or2 minutes . Drain off the water, put thebacon back in the pan, and allow to fryuntil the fat has partially melted, and thenadd the onion cut into dice, and fry to alight colour . Now add the flour and againfry to a fawn colour . Pour on the coldwater, bring to the boil while stirring, andadd the potatoes cut into quarters . The

moisture should be level with the potatoes ;if not , add more water . Season with salt

,

pepper , and a pinch of savoury Spice . Cookfreely until the potatoes are done, and servesprinkled with chopped parsley .

Bully Beef Stew

Materials — Slices of beef, potato stewprepared as in the previous recipe .

Method.— Slice the beef into pieces a

quarter of an inch thick, arrange theseneatly on a hot dish . Pour over the potatostew,

and place in the oven for 5 or 10minutes . Serve at once .

Heated in this manner the beef will bewhole instead of in shreds .

MEAT DISHES 99

Two Meat Dishes from a Breast of Mutton—Mutton Broth and Stuffed Roll withBarley

Materials .—B reast of mutton, weighing

1% lb 1 dried egg, é lb . mixed vegetables

(carrots, turnips, onions and celery ) cutsmall

, 2 whole carrots, 2 quarts 3 gills ofwater, 2 oz . pearl barley, also 1 gill ofpearl barley, é oz . salt, oz . corn flour, alittle cold milk, 1 tablespoonfu l vinegar, 1teaspoonful chopped parsley, a little pepper ,spice, capers and breadcrumbs .

Method.— B one and skin the breast of

mutton place the broken bones in 2 quartsof water . Cut the boned breast into anoblong or square, mince the trimmings withsalt , pepper, spice, parsley, and an equalquantity of soaked and squeezed crumbs

,

mix with egg . Open the breast of muttonto make it sufficiently large to make into aroll with the stuffing in the centre . Tie

with string and place in the water with thebones ; add the salt and 2 oz . barley

,and

cook for 1 hour .

Place in a perfectly clean tin 1% gillbarley, cover with 3 gills water, and add salt .

Cover with a muslin and the lid , and thenplace the tin in the broth , adding the 2

MEAT DISHES 101

one egg is added to the mixture after cooking,the cutlets can b e baked without crumbing .

Serve with a vegetable sauce or gravy (seep . or when served with a haricotstew , no sauce is required .

Ox Cheek and Haricot Pie

llI aterials .—1 ox cheek, haricot beans .

Method.— Cu t the cheek into 33-inch slices

and cook as directed for meat gravy (seep . When brown , add as many steamedharicot beans as desired, cover with water,and simmer till thoroughly blended . Seasonto taste and place in a pie dish . Whencold, cover with short crust, and bake for20 minutes in a hot oven ; or line a piemould with pie crust (see p . fill withthe mixture, cover with paste, and bakequickly .

Patties or pastries made with the abovemixture make a pleasing change from pies,and are useful cold for the pocket lunchesneeded by so many war workers .

Savoury Rice with Meat or Fish

Materials .— R ice, 1 chopped onion, meat

or fish , a little fat and grated cheese .

Method.— To prepare dry rice, either with


meat or fish , fry the meat or fish (whichmust be cut into convenient pieces ) in fat,and when sufficiently cooked take it out ofthe pan . Fry a chopped onion in the fatwithout colouring,

!

and add the rice, whichshould be picked so that it is thoroughlyclean . It is best not to wash it , but if itmust be washed, dry on a cloth and fry inthe fat so that each grain is covered . Thenadd the quantity of liquid, which variesaccording to the quality of the rice, fromtwice to five times the measure of the ricethus for 1 gill of rice 1% to 5 gills of liquidmay be required . Now bring it to the

boil,season, add the fish or meat , and cook

from 18 to 25 minutes . For colour a littlepowdered saffron may be added . Freshlygrated cheese sprinkled over just beforedishing up improves the nutriment of thedish . Cook and serve in a casserole .

Stuffed Marrow

Materials .—1 marrow,

minced mutton orother meat , a little fat , some fried onion

,

a little tomato sauce and breadcrumbs .

Method.— Peel the marrow

,cut into pieces,

parboil, then fry in a little fat on both sides,and drain . Prepare the minced meat, to

MEAT DISHES 103

which add some fried onion and tomatosauce to bind season well . Fill the marrow,

sprinkle with breadcrumbs, and baste withoil or fat, and bake .

Fried Liver and Onions with Rice or

Polenta

Materials . lb . liver, 1 oz . dripping, alittle salt and pepper, 4 oz . onion, oz .

flour, pint of water, 1 dessertspoonful ofvinegar, a little chopped parsley .

!Method — Cut the liver in slices inchthick, season with salt and pepper, andflour it . Heat the dripping, and when hot,place the liver in and fry until pearls ofblood rise on the surface, then turn it andfry on the other side until again pearls ofpale blood Show . Take the liver out anddish up . Shred the onion, and fry in the

pan in which the liver was fried, stirringwith a fork until the onion is cooked . Add

the flour , cook for a few minutes, then addthe water and vinegar . Stir and cook forabout 10 minutes . Season to taste, andpour over the liver, garnishing with a littlechopped parsley .

To make the meat go further,serve

arranged on a bed of savoury rice (see p .

MEAT DISHES 105

meat free of bone, 1 lb . potato gnocchi (seep . 4 oz . onions, 1 Oz . fat , 1} oz . flour

,

2 tomatoes, 1 pint water, salt , pepper anda pinch of Spice or herbs .

Method.—Fry the onion in the fat

,add

the flour, and cook to a nut-brown colour ;when done, add the tomatoes

,peeled and

cut into dice (the pips removed ), then addthe water . B ring to the boil, seasoningwith salt, pepper and spice . Now add the

meat cut into dice and the potato gnocchi .Cook freely for 20 minutes .

Meat Loaves and Stewed B eetroot

Materials (Meat Loaves ) .— 4 oz . cookedmeat , 2 oz . breadcrumbs, 1 egg, 1 oz . fat,salt

,pepper and nutmeg . (Beetroot ) .— 1 lb .

cooked beetroot, 2 oz . onion, 1 oz . fat , 1tablespoonful vinegar, salt and pepper .

Method.—Mix the cooked meat, bread

crumbs (fresh or soaked‘

and squeezed dry ),egg, fat, salt, pepper and nutmeg welltogether . Shape into rolls, place in agreased baking dish, sprinkle with breadcrumbs and fat , and bake in the oven .

When done, remove, add a little stock torinse out the pan

,and strain the gravy over

the loaves, and garnish with cooked beetroot .


Sheep’s Trotters

Materials .—4 scalded sheep’s trotters,

carrot and onion, bouquet of savoury herbs,1 clove, 6 peppercorns, a little salt , nutmegand chopped parsley, oz . flour

, 3 oz .

‘ fat ,é gill milk, 1 teaspoonful of lemon juice .

Method.— Parboil the trotters, then place

in cold water and bring to the boil with thecarrot , onion, herbs, clove, peppercorns anda little sa lt . When done, remove all thebones, and prepare a sauce as follows in acasserole : Mix the flour with the fat andreduce the liquor till only 1% gill is left .

Add this by degrees to the flour and butter ,then add the milk and boil for 10 minutes .

Grate a little nutmeg with the lemon juice ,add a little sauce and mix well together , thenreturn to the remainder of the sauce and boil .Add the drained trotters and simmer for 10minutes .

Cooked button onions and mushrooms maybe added .

The sheep’s trotters can be made intofritters and served in any way in whichcalf’s head is served . Minced and added toa vegetarian Scotch

.

broth they form a substantial and nourishing dish .

MEAT DISHES 107

Fried Ox Cheek or Ox Cheek Fritters

Materials .—1 lb . ox cheek, 1 oz . fat, a

little egg and breadcrumbs .

Method.—Slice the cheek and place it on

some shredded onion and 1 oz . fat , salt and apinch of spice . Cover and let it sweatadd water little by little, and cook and turnuntil the cheek is done . Let it cool undera heavy weight . With the gravy make abrown sauce, half of which reduce and u se tocoat the slices of ox cheek . Then egg andbreadcrumb the Slices twice, fry in deepfat, and serve with the remainder of thesauce . Fritters can be made by coating one

slice of ox cheek with sauce,covering it with

another slice, then passing them throughfrying batter and baking them in a hot oven .

Ox cheek makes excellent broth, patties,salad, etc .

Meat Rolls or Olives with Peas

Materials .— Some slices of raw beef, a little

salt , pepper and herbs , a little fat , 1 dozenbutton onions

, 2 oz . bacon,pint fresh or

soaked and steamed dried peas, little potatoflour or corn flour .

Method.— Cut the slices of beef, flatten and

MEAT DISHES 109

bind with the egg . Fill the centre of theovals of mutton and roll up . Cover withthe bacon and skewer them into shape .

Roast plain, and serve with gravy andapple sauce .

Meat Salad

Materials .—Some slices of cooked meat

,

preferably stock meat well cooked withplenty of gristle, some thinly cut rings ofonion, sliced beetroot, potatoes, tomatoes,cucumber and any other vegetable, a littlesalad dressing of any kind, a little choppedherbs, parsley, tarragon and chervil .Method.

—Mix all together, baste thoroughly with salad dressing, then arrangeneatly in a salad dish and keep as cool aspossible . Sprinkle with chopped herbs .

Savoury Maize Roll

Materials .—Suet maize paste (see pp . 182

or sausage meat, vegetable gravy orvegetable sauce (see p .

Method.— Use suet maize paste as given for

maize jam roll,place the sausage meat in

the centre and roll up , tie in a cloth andsteam for 2 hours . Serve with gravy orvegetable gravy or sauce .


Pilaw

Materials .— 1 oz . fat, 1 oz . chopped onion,

lb . lean mutton (if tough , part cook it ) , é—lb .

peeled tomatoes, 1 pint stock, lb . rice

(raw) , seasoning to taste .

Method.— Cu t the mutton in small squares

and fry in the fat . Add the onion and riceand stir until hot, then add the tomatoes

,

peeled and cut up ; season and cover withthe stock and cook until meat and rice are

su fficiently done— about 20 minutes .

Other vegetables, such as artichokes oraubergines, may be added and all cookedtogether .

Stock Meat and Rice CroquettesMaterials .

—A little fried chopped onion,

Worcester sauce, salt, pepper and spice,crumbs or cooked rice or potatoes, batter,gristle and meat pickings from soup bones .

Method.—When bone stock is made there

remains on the bones a certain amount ofmeat , skin and gristle, which, although it haslost its savour which it has given to the

st ock, has still a certain value as a food .

This, when mixed and added to fried choppedonion and a little Worcester sauce

,well

seasoned with salt, pepper and Spice,is

MEAT DISHES 111

excellent, and when mixed with crumbs orcooked rice can be made into croquettes orri ssoles . An equal quantity of rice and meatis best, or some mashed potatoes can be

added,which will also help in the binding .

Coated with batter and crumbed and fried,these are very appetising . If they are to bebaked

,which of course during the Shortness

of fat is perhaps the only way to deal withthem, it would be best to roll the stuffinginto a very thin layer of paste, brush overwith water and then roll in crumbs, instead ofusing a batter . When baked , these will besuitable for breakfast or supper .

C H A P T E R V

MEATLESS DISHES—CEREALS,PULSES, ETC.

It may be that with increased knowledgeweshal l feed better though we eat less.

C HAP T E R V

MEATLESS DISHES—CEREALS,PULSES, ETC.

Method of Cooking Cereals

IN cooking cereals often much valuable foodis wasted . R ice for curry is, after boiling,drained and washed thus starch andminerals are thrown away or if cooked inmilk in the usual fashion it is liable to burn,requires much attention, and considerabletime in cooking which , when gas, oil orelectricity are used, might be saved . Muchof this waste may be avoided by adoptingthe following method : Place the cerealin a tin— a cocoa tin for instance—add asmuch water as the cereal is able to absorb ,salt according to the moisture added, butmuch less than is generally used, cover thetin with muslin, and then with the lid, sothat no steam or wat

er can escape, or any

water enter . Place in a pan of boilingwater , and allow to cook according to the

MEATLESS DISHES 117

Method of Cooking Pu lse Food

Pulses prepared in the usual mannertake a long time to cook, absorb a largeproportion of water

,and in doing SO decrease

the food value to the amount of waterabsorbed . There is here a waste of fueland time . It is usual to soak pulse foodfor 12 to 24 hours to allow them to absorbthe moisture lost in drying, and also to adda certain percentage of soda to soften the

skins,which harden in the drying, and to

soften the water . Rain water,which is

already soft , does not require this, butotherwise

,as the pulse contains lime

,it is

advisable to add a certain amount of soda .

Water in which potatoes are cooked is alsoan excellent medium to soften the skins .

Often the pulse begins to Shoot while soaking ; when placed in boiling water and leftto soak this does not occur .

Pu lses should be placed in boiling water,

adding one teaspoonful of bicarbonate ofsoda to each quart of water, and left to soakuntil fully expanded— that is

, 12 to 24 hours .

In soaking Egyptian lentils, the soda is notnecessary ; the husks are tender, and perhapsalso they do not contain so much lime as theother pulses . After this soaking pulses are

1 18 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK

easily and quickly cooked by steam . Theymust be washed in fresh water after soaking

,

to wash the soda well away . Then tie

them in a cloth to the lid of the ordinarysaucepan so that they h ang over boilingwater . There should be sufficient water toproduce steam for the time required forcooking the pulse, and the water Shou ld notbe allowed to boil violently, for if the watertouches the pulse it hardens them andretards the cooking .

Time of Steaming — Lentils, 15 minutes ;haricot beans and butter beans, 30 ; splitpeas, yellow or green, 20 and red or brownharicots and whole peas, from 30 to 50

minutes .When so cooked by steam,

the pulseabsorbs less than its own weight in water, isthoroughly cooked, yet every seed is whole,and can be easily mashed for purée orsoups and requires but very little seasoning .

When eaten in this way, pulses must bemasticated, which is the first stage ofdigestion, whilst when served in the usualbroken-up state they are more oftenswallowed with little or no mastication .

Pulses contain only about 2 per cent . offat

,therefore they should be, when possible ,

accompanied by fatty meat, such as pork or

MEATLESS DISHES 119

bacon . When so served the pulse should beallowed to simmer, after the steaming, in thegravy of the meat, and so become enr ichedwith the fat of the meat, in preference to beingserved dry or stewed with added fat orstock . When fat meat is not available,other fat must be added .

Peas

Soak in boiling water with 1 teaspoonful ofbicarbonate of soda per quart of water, for12 to 24 hours (potato water is sometimesused for this purpose, in which case b i

carbonate is not required ) . Wash well inseveral fresh waters, then steam till tender ,30 to 50 minutes .

Haricot Beans

AS above . Steam for 30 minutes .

Red Lentils (Egyptian)

As above . No soda required ; steam 15

minutes . If boiled it is not necessary tosoak them . B oil in an equal quantity ofwater (a cupful of pulses to a cupful of water,for example), and absorb all water by slowcooking .

MEATLESS DISHES 121

Rice Savoury

Materials .- 1 quart water, 4 oz . salt,

7} pint rice, 2 to 4 oz . grated or choppedcheese

,pepper and nutmeg .

Method.— Cook the rice for 30 minutes

in salt and water ; add pepper, nutmegand cheese and stir till creamy . Tu rn outinto a dish , and when cold shape into cakes ,egg , crumb and fry, or coat in flour andwater batter and bake or fry .

Baked Rice and Lentils

Materials .—Some cooked lentils , a n equal

quantity of cooked rice, 1 oz . of fat per lb .

of mixture, a little dripping, salt and pepper,gravy .

Method —Mix the rice and lentils together,season with salt and pepper , add the

fat,place in a greased baking-tin, sprinkle

with dripping and bake in a hot oven .

Serve with gravy .

Polenta

Materials — 1 quart water, pint maizesemolina (yellow), oz . salt, 1 oz . fat, alittle grated cheese (if this is added fat maybe omitted) .


Method.—B oil the water, add salt and

fat and semolina or corn meal (yellow ) .If white maize is used, double the amountof maize is requ ired . B oil for 15 to 20

minutes, stirring all the time, or place in a

porringer and cook for 1 hour . Turn outto cool, cut into slices, and flour and fryin a frying-pan with a little fat . Sprinklewith grated cheese or serve plain .

This paste is an excellent substitute forbread with poached eggs, rarebit, etc . Itcan be baked or fried and either floured orcrumbed .

Vegetable Sausages with Pu lse and Nuts

Sausages can be made with vegetablesby using the mixture given for vegetablecutlets (see p . They should be treatedin the same manner as described in the ex

planation for stock meat and rice croquettes

(see p . 110) by enclosing the mixtures in avery thin layer of paste and breadcrumbs,pressed or rolled to shape, and then baked .

In thismanner a large number of dishes can bemade .

Polenta with Potatoes

Materials .—12~lb . potatoes, 1 pint of water,

MEATLESS DISHES 23

4 lb . maize semolina or maize flour, littlecheese, pepper and nutmeg .

Method.—B oil the potatoes when cooked,

drain and mash , but reserve the water .

Put the mash and water together (thereshould be 1 pint of water ) , add the maizesemolina or maize flour , stir well and cookthoroughly . Add cheese, pepper and alittle nutmeg . Turn out to cool , cut intoconvenient pieces, coat with flour, and fryor bake . If liked a little onion can also beadded .

When cheese is scarce it must be omitted,and the onion will give a pleasant flavour .

This is an excellent breakfast dish .

Rarebit

Materials — é pint of milk, 1 oz . groundrice, 2 oz . finely chopped cheese, half-teaspoonful made mustard, salt, pepper, orcayenne .

Method.—Mix the ground rice with a

little of the cold milk ; boil the remainingmilk, add the ground rice and stir untilthick ; add the cheese (cleaned and gratedrind will answer ) , stir till dissolved, and thenadd the mustard and salt , pepper orcayenne . Place the mixture on pieces of

MEATLESS DISHES

Maize and Cheese Savoury

Materials .— A layer of polenta (see p .

rarebit mixture (see previous recipe), some

stiff frying batter (see p .

Method.— Cut the polenta into two equal

sized pieces ; on one Spread a layer of rarebitmixture, cover with the other layer andpress lightly together . Prepare a stiff fryingbatter, cut the polenta into blocks

,coat

with the batter and drain well, place on agreased baking—tin and bake to a goldenbrown .

This is an excellent dish , very easy tomake and highly nutritious .

Haricot Bean Stew

Materials .— 1 oz . chopped onion, 1 oz . fat,

1 lb . cooked haricot beans, stock or potatowater, little salt and pepper, 1 tablespoonfulof vinegar, oz . flour, little chopped parsley .

Method.

—Fry the onion in oz . fat, addthe haricot beans, cover with stock or potatowater, season to taste with salt and pepper,and then add the vinegar . Thicken the

gravy as for melted butter sauce (see p . 46)by adding the fat and flour mixed oz . ofeach ) ; stir with a fork, simmer for 5 minutes,

:126 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK

then dish up and sprinkle with choppedparsley . Cheese may be added if obtainable .

Peas Stew and Lentil Stew

Materials and Method.—The same as for

haricot bean stew .

Haricot Bean Pie

Materials .—Some Short paste (see p .

haricot bean stew, a few chopped nuts .Method.

—Line a pie pan with short paste,fill with haricot bean stew, to which add afew chopped nuts . Cover with paste, andbake for 20minutes .Any filling can be used for pics : Peas

and beans, peas and beans with vegetables,beans, potatoes and cheese, peas, barleyand curry, lentils and rice with onion, etc .

Timbales

Line timbale moulds with short paste

(see Chap . fill with filling, cover, andbake 20 minutes . Turn out and serve hotwith sauce .

Materials .—1 oz . onion, oz . fat, 1 tea

MEATLESS DISHES 127

spoonful curry powder, 1 gill cooked barley,

1 gill cooked lentils .

Method.—Fry the onion, fat and curry

powder together, add the barley and lentilsor any other combination of pulse andcereals . Moisten with vegetable sauce,and simmer until thoroughly blended .

Cool, and u se for filling of pies, patties,etc .

The same can also be used in pie dishescovered with potato or maize semolina crust .

Oatmeal Sausages

Materials — é oz . fat, 2 oz . chopped onion,1 or 2 oz . chopped suet, 55pint of water, 1 gillvegetable gravy (see p . 2 oz . mediumoatmeal, 2 oz . fine oatmeal, salt, pepper andspice .

Method.—Fry the onion and fat to

gether, add the suet, water and Vegetablegravy . B oil then add the medium and fineoatmeal mixed . Stir over the fire for 15

minutes, season with salt, pepper and Spice,and, when cooked and stiff, turn out to cool .Shape as required, coat and crumb, and fryor bake .

MEATLESS DISHES 129

tablespoonful of the mixture in each , and rollup like a sausage roll . B rush over the topwith water and sprinkle with crumbs . B akein a hot oven 15 to 20minutes, and serve withvegetable gravy .

Baked Oatmeal Pudding

Materials .—The same mixture as for oat

meal canelons (foregoing recipe), vegetablegravy (see p .

Method.—Grease some darioleg moulds,

line with crumbs, nearly fill with the mixture,bake for 20 minutes, turn out, and servewith vegetable gravy .

Instead of suet, nut fat can be used, or ifnuts are used, fat can be omitted .

Oaten Savoury

Materials .

—4 oz . medium oatmeal, 4 oz .

soaked bread crusts, 2 oz . chopped suet,

1 teaspoonful crushed sage or herbs, 1 oz .

chopped fried onion, a little salt and pepper,gravy or vegetable sauce (see p .

Method.—Mix the oatmeal with the soaked

crusts of bread , then add the suet , salt ,pepper , herbs and onion . Mix and bake in a

9


greased dish, and serve with gravy or vegetable sauce .

Vegetable Pie

Materials lb . carrot, 317lb . swede

,lb .

onion, 4 oz . cabbage, a sprig of celery (cut

into small pieces or diamond shapes ), 1 oz .

fat,a little salt and pepper, 7} pint of cooked

haricots or lentils, 1 tablespoonful Wor

oester sauce, 1 tablespoonful mushroomketchup .

Method.— Place the vegetables in a sauce

pan with the fat and a little salt . Coverwith the lid, and stove as for vegetable st ock

(see p . When the dried sediment isformed at the bottom, cover the vegetableswith water and add the cooked pulseeither haricots, peas or lentils, or a mixtureof them . Add the Worcester sauce andmushroom ketchup , season to taste withsalt and pepper, and simmer together . Ifthe gravy does not thicken sufficiently bythe addition of the pulse, add a small quantity of fat and flour mixed together with afork on a plate, or a little flour mixedsmoothly in water will serve the purpose .

Perhaps 1 oz . in all may be required .

Place the whole in a pie dish and let cool .When Cold, cover with pie crust (see p .

MEATLESS DISHES 131

and place in a hot oven to bake the cru st,

for the contents of the pie are alreadycooked . The time necessary to bake the

crust will be quite sufficient to reheat thecontents of the pie .

Stoved Cabbage and Rice

Materials .— 1 oz . fat , 2 oz . shredded onion

,

1 lb . shredded cabbage, 1 gill water, 1 gillraw rice, pinch of salt and pepper .Method.

— Heat the fat, add the onion, andsweat together until the onion is half

cooked, then add the cabbage and water,also a pinch of salt . Cover the saucepanand place on a gentle heat , and simmer untilthe cabbage is nearly tender . Add the

rice, stirring with a fork to mix the riceand cabbage well, and cover with sufficientwater to be just level with the cabbagesurface— about 1 gill . Correct the seasoning by tasting, adding sufficient salt andpepper . Cover the saucepan with a clothand the lid . This is done to prevent anyundue evaporation . Cook for 20 minutes,taking care that the heat is very gentle sothat the contents cannot burn . After thattime the whole will be cooked . Serve as avegetable or in place of meat .

MEATLESS DISHES 133

Lentils and Rice Balls

Materials .—1 oz . onion, 1 oz . fat, 1 lb .

lentils and rice (cooked ), a little mashedpotato

,salt and pepper to taste, a few bread

crumbs .

Method.—Fry the onion and fat together

when cooked add the lentils and rice, previou sly passed through a mincing-machine.

To this add sufficient mashed potato tobind

,season to taste with salt and pepper

and heat until boiling-point . Turn out onto a plate . When quite cool form into ballsand roll in crumbs, place in a baking-tin,baste lightly with fat, and bake in a hotoven until brown . The oven must be hotor the balls will not cook crisp and neatly .

Creamed Lentils

Materials . pint milk, 2 whole eggs (ordried eggs), salt and pepper to taste, some

cooked lentils .Method.

—B eat the eggs well, add to themilk, season with salt and pepper, and stirover the fire until creamy . B e careful notto boil this sauce, otherwise it will curdle .

Add the lentils, toss carefully while heating,and serve sprinkled with parsley .


Curried Pulse

Materials .—1 oz . onion, 1 oz . fat

, 1

teaspoonful of curry powder, little flour,

some cooked pulse .

Method.—Fry the onion in fat . As soon

as it begins to colour add the curry powderand fry together . Then add the flour, and,when mixed, the beans (or whatever the

pulse is ) should be added together with theliquid . Finish as described in the lastrecipe, but omit the parsley .

Home-Made Macaroni (Nou illes )— 1

Materials .— 1 lb . flour, é oz . of salt , a

little milk or water .

Method.—Mix the flour with milk or

water to a stiff paste, then add the salt .

The best way is to start with three-quartersof the flour and then work in the remainder .

Let the paste rest for one hour in a cloth ,

then roll out to the thickness required, andhang over a rolling-pin until partially dry ;roll up like a roly-poly and cut into slices .

Lay out loosely on a pastry-board . B oilsufficient salted water to cover, then boilthe macaroni until tender— 10 to 20minutes,according to thickness .

MEATLESS DISHES 135

It is preferable to cook the paste in aclos

’

éd pan with only as much water asit will absorb , and if possible a little fat .

Macaroni will absorb two or three times itsweight of water, so that if that amount isadded, with fat and seasoning, it will onlyrequire when cooked to be Sprinkled withcheese or tomato .

Nou illes— Z

Materials .

— 5 oz . rice flour, 4 oz . flour, 1

gill water, a little salt .

Method.

— Scald 1 oz . of the rice flour inwater, then add the flour, the remainingrice flour and a pinch of salt , m1x1ng to avery stiff paste . Let this rest , then roll outand proceed as for macaroni .

How to Cook Macaroni

Parboil the macaroni, drain, then placein the saucepan and cover with water, stock,or water and milk . Season, cover with thelid, and cook until tender— about 20minutes .The moisture should then be absorbed .

Add a little grated cheese, stir, and servevery hot .

Instead of cheese, tomato sauce or gravy

MEATLESS DISHES 137

onion in fat,then add the other ingredients,

mix thoroughly, and steam for 2 hours .The pudding is served with vegetable currysauce (see p .

Savoury Maize and Vegetable Pudding

Materials .— Maize paste (see pp . 182 or

vegetable preparation as for vegetable

pie (see p .

Method.—Line a pudding basin with the

maize paste,

fill with vegetable preparation asfor vegetable pie, cover, and steam for 1 hour .

Any filling given in any of the otherrecipes can be used— potato stew, cobbler

’s

pie, also apple, rhubarb and any otherfruit . Maize requires moisture to swell ; itis therefore particularly suitable for fruitpudding .

Potato Gnocchi

Materials .—1 lb . potatoes, 1 egg, 1 oz .

fat , 4 oz . self-raising flour,salt, pepper and

nutmeg .

Method— B ake the potatoes in the oven ;when done, cut open and press out the

pulp, put in a basin with the egg, fat, salt,pepper, nutmeg and flour

,and mix all well


together to a dough . Roll into small ballslike hazel nuts, and place one by one on asieve, pressing with a fork to form a curl

.

B oil in salted water for 10 minutes,and u se

as for ravioli (see p . Or put in tomatosauce or cream sauce and bake . The egg maybe omitted .

Risotto

Materials .— 1 oz . chopped onion, 1 oz . fat

,

2 oz . grated cheese, pint rice (about 42 ; pints stock, lb . tomatoes, a pinch ofsaffron .

Method.

—Fry the onion in the fat, addthe rice, and heat all together . Add the

tomato,peeled and cut up , saffron, 1 pint

of the stock, salt and pepper, and boil,stirring from time to time

, and adding morestock when required . Cook altogether for20 minutes . If desired, cut up some meatand mix with the rice . At the finish putin the grated cheese, boil while stirring itin, and serve at once . The cheese and meatmay be omitted .

Macaroni with Tomatoes

Materials .

—Macaroni, a little stock andclarified fat , a few tablespoonfuls of gratedcheese .

MEATLESS DISHES 139

Method.— Parboil the macaroni in water ;

drain, and then cover with stock to which anut of fat is added, and cook for 18 to 20minutes until nearly dry . Then add the

cheese . It Should be dished up very hot,and a ragout of tomatoes placed in the

centre . A piece of bread is the only otherfood required with this dish , which formsa substantial meal

,and for economy is

difficult to surpass . When dishes of thiskind are served , the pudding is superfluous,and only a little fruit is needed for thesweet course .

The fat and cheese can be omitted, butthen the dish loses greatly in food value .

Nut Roll

Materials .— 4 oz . bread, 2 oz . gluten flour ,

2 oz . lightly grilled peanuts, 4 oz . maizecrumbs or breadcrumbs substitute (see p .

salt, cayenne or Spice, the juice of alemon, 2 soaked dried eggs

, 1 tablespoonfulcooked rice or chopped pine kernels, vegetable stock .

Method.

— Soak the bread in water ormilk , drain, and cook in a saucepan to forma stiff paste . Add the gluten flour andpeanuts, pass through a mincing-machine

MEATLESS DISHES 141

spinach , a little vegetable gravy and gratedcheese .

Method.—Mix the flour with salt

,pepper

and nutmeg to taste , to which add sufficientmilk to make a very stiff paste . Let itrest a while , then divide into four pieces androll out

,each one 1

15 inch thick . Have ready

some cooked spinach ; season, and passthrough a sieve . B rush over with watertwo of the sheets of paste ; mark with acutter of 15 inch to 2 inches in diameter,and place a small knob of spinach in each .

Cover with the other two Sheets of paste,

press well together around the spinach, andcut in squares . Heat sufficient salted waterto boil the ravioli, and cook for 10 minutes,then refresh and drain .

Moisten the bottom of a gratin dish withgravy

,and arrange a layer of ravioli and

grated cheese, etc . , until all have been usedup ; sprinkle with grated cheese, and bakein the oven to a nice brown colour . Cheesemay be omitted .

Tomato sauce may be used instead ofgravy .

Any vegetable, meat or fish filling maybe used in the ravioli .

C H A P T E R V I

VEGETABLES, VEGETABLE DISHESAND SALADS

C H A P T E R V I

VEGETABLES, VEGETABLE DISHESAND SALADS

The Conservative Method of CookingVegetables

GENERAL NOTES

VEGETAB LES contain minerals or salts whichare necessary to health . In the usualmethod of cooking these in water with salt

,

and sometimes with soda, most of thesesalts are dissolved in the water, which, afterthe vegetables are cooked , is thrown away .

The added salt gives taste to the'

vegetable

but the valuable minerals are lost . Cabbageafter cooking contains more water than whenin a raw state . The soda in the cookingdestroys the finer tissues of the leaves

, the

starch is washed out with the mineral salts ,and what remains is served . All greens aretreated in this manner, and, consequently,lose their most valuable constituents .

I O


Carrots when boiled lose, in addition to salts,a large amount of sugar, which is also washedout . The onion and artichokes fare likewise . B eetroot and parsnip lose the greaterpart of the sugar . In fact all vegetables, ofwhatever kind they are, are all more or lesswasted by being boiled, whereas if thesevegetables are cooked in their own jume orwater, of which they contain a large percentage, the flavour and the minerals are

all preserved, very little additional salt isnecessary, and the natural colour of thevegetable is maintained . For this purposeall vegetables should be cut into smallportions and placed in a clean saucepan .

Water may be added, but not more than willevaporate during the process of cooking,and a little fat of some kind is added— sayhalf an ounce for every pound of vegetables .A lid is placed on the pot, which should beclosed as tightly as possible to prevent undueevaporation, and a very small flame placedunder the pan to allow for simmering only .

Twenty minutes is generally sufficient forcooking . Vegetables which shrink duringcooking

,like cabbage, require very little

water . Carrot, cauliflower and the like shouldbe covered with water, cooked till nearlytender, and then cooked quickly to evaporate

VEGETABLES 147

excess moisture, so that when done nomore moisture is left than that which isrequired as gravy . No sauces are necessary,and thus a saving of time and material iseffected .

Vegetables can be blended with rice orother cereal by adding this to the vegetable,with as much liquid as the cereal will absorb .

In this way many appetising dishes can beprepared in one saucepan ; meat or fishmay be added if required .

When preparing vegetable stock, the y egetables are cut small and stoved (see p .

88) in the pot with fat until the salts are

dissolved, the water evaporated, and a sediment is formed at the bottom, which is notunlike the gravy from roasted meat . The

water is then added, and the whole boiledfor 10 to 20 minutes (the vegetables are

already cooked during the stoving) . Saltis added to taste, and the stock is thenstrained . The fat added rises on the top ofthe stock, and should be skimmed and usedagain for a similar or other purpose The

stock is very similar to meat stock in appearance and not unlike in flavour, except insweetness, which , if disliked, may be counteracted by adding a small amount of lemonjuice or vinegar .

VEGETAB LES 149

the marrow was fr ied . When all is melteddown

,add the chopped tomatoes , a little

garlic,parsley, salt and pepper . Mix all

thoroughly with breadcrumbs, cooked riceor maize, and moisten with sauce . Fill thepieces of marrow with this mixture, smooththe surface, Sprinkle with crumbs, and bakeuntil brown . Serve with brown or tomatosauce (see p .

Vegetable Marrow

Materials .

—1 marrow, 13; oz . fat per lb . of

marrow,a little salt and chopped parsley .

Method.

—When peeled and the pips re

moved,cut into Slices . Place in a saucepan

with a little water and the fat . Add salt ,cover with a lid and cook till tender

,but do

not overcook . Toss from time to time untilhalf cooked, then simmer without stirring

,

otherwise the marrow will become a mash .

Serve with chopped parsley .

Marrow au Gratin

Materials — 1 marrow, a little gratedcheese, a little fat .

Method .

— B oil the pieces of marrow insalted water until nearly tender drain on a


cloth . Place in a dish ,Sprinkle with grated

cheese and fat , and bake in the oven untilsoft and a nice colour .

Do not let the marrow remain in the wateruntil all the pieces are cooked ; remove themas they are done . They vary in thickness, sodo not cook alike .

Or cover the marrow with white sauce andthen Sprinkle with cheese (if procurable ),or crumbs, and bake .

Celery

Materials — gt oz . fat to the lb . of celery,

juice of half a lemon, a little salt .

Method— Cut the celery about 8 incheslong, carefully trim the root end to a point .

Remove the very outside leaves, Skin the .

remaining outs ide leaves with a potatopeeler or knife, to remove all the strings, andcut into two lengthwise . B oil in salt waterfor 5 to 10 minutes, then refresh by placingin cold water . This is done to whiten the

celery . Wash well between the leaves, whichare now flexible, to remove all grit ; tie inbunches . Place in a saucepan, cover withwater, add the fat , lemon juice and salt,and place on the fire to boil . Let simmer tilltender, and when nearly cooked let the liquid

VEGETABLES 151

reduce so that only sufficient is left forsauce .

Sprouts

Materials .—Sprouts , a little salt , 3

2»

fat to the lb . of Sprouts .Method.

— Clean as usual . Place in asaucepan and just cover with water, addsalt and i

zl oz . fat per lb . Cover with a lid,

boil freely till nearly tender, remove the lidand reduce till nearly dry .

Parsnips

Cook like turnips (see p . A sharpsauce or Lyonnaise sauce goes better withparsnips than white sauce .

Stoved Leeks

Materials .—A bunch of leeks, oz . fat

to every lb . of leeks (a market bunch of leeksweighs about 2 the juice of half alemon and a little salt .

Method.

— Clean the leeks, split in halves ,remove the dark green parts and wash well .Parboil in salted water and refresh in coldwater . Place in a saucepan with the fat ,adding the salt and lemon juice and water to

VEGETABLES 153

saucepan with a lid on over a small flame tosweat, and let fry lightly . Nearly cover withvegetable stock or water, season, cover withthe lid and bring the liquid to the boil .Then place in an oven and cook till tender— 1 hour or more .

-Remove the lid, reducethe liquid

,baste the onions with the reduced

liquid and bake to a nice colour, then removethe onions and thicken the gravy if necessary .

Pour the sauce over the onions and sprinklewith chopped parsley .

Any kind of stuffing can be used for theonions instead of the one given here . Forexample

,the onion mixed with mashed

potato or rice and seasoning .

Purées or Mashed Vegetables

All kinds of vegetables, such as carrots,turnips

,artichokes, and peas , beans, lentils,

can all be passed through a mincing-machineafter cooking by the conservative methodas directed, and served as purées , croquettes ,rissoles, gratins, timbales, etc .

J erusalem Artichokes

Wash and peel the artichokes ; placethem in salted water to which a little lemon


juice has been added , then cook as explainedfor the salsify (see p . Serve withwhite sauce, gravy or au gratin . The re

maining liquid may be used for soup .

J erusalem Artichoke Fritters

Drain the cooked artichokes , season,

Sprinkle with lemon juice and choppedparsley . Coat with frying batter, drainWell , and place on a greased baking-sheet,and bake to a golden brown . Serve withtomato or vegetable sauce .

Artichoke Cake

Materials .

—Artichokes , white sauce (seep . bread dough (see p . a littlegrated cheese .

Method.

—Line a greased dish with breaddough

,place the artichokes in the centre,

let the bread rise . The edge should be rolledup so as to form a border when risen . Coverthe artichokes with white sauce, sprinklewith cheese, and bake for 30 minutes .

Cau liflower

Cut the cauliflower (1 lb . ) small , in bunches,trim the stalk as well . Place in a saucepan,

VEGETABLES 155

just cover with water, add a little salt and

5 oz . fat . Cover with a lid , cook till nearlydone

,then remove the lid , reduce quickly

till nearly dry, and serve without sauce .

Cau liflower au Gratin

Dish up , cover with white sauce , sprinklewith grated cheese , and bake to a nicecolour . Or mix the cauliflower with the

sauce,season well , place in the dish , sprinkle

with cheese, and bake .

The sauce can be omitted— only sprinklewith cheese or crumbs

,or both mixed

,and

then bake .

Carrots

Materials .— Carrots , l oz . fat per lb . of car

rots , a pinch of salt, a little chopped parsley .

Method.— Slice or cut in Shape of small

carrots, add 5 oz . fat per lh. , cover withwater and a very little salt, boil freelytill tender . Reduce the liquid till nearlydry

,and serve with chopped parsley sprinkled

on the top . Use the trimmings for stock .

Turnips

Materials .—Turnips

,oz . fat per lb . , a

little chopped parsley .

VEGETABLES 157

Yorkshire pudding, and bake like a Yorkshire pudding .

Use the liquid which remains for soup,adding vegetables and barley .

Creamed Spinach

Materials .

—Spinach, oz . fat per lb . of

spinach,gill of water, a little diluted corn

flour,a pinch of nutmeg, salt and pepper .

Method.

—Wash the spinach in plenty of

water until free from grit . Place the fat

and clean water in a saucepan, add the

Spinach, and simmer until tender . Removethe spinach , drain and chop fine . Reducethe liquid , bind with a little corn flourmixed in cold milk to make a stiff creamsauce, add the spinach and season to tastewith a little salt, nutmeg and pepper .

There should be 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of

sauce for 1 lb . of spinach . Do not overcookthe Spinach .

Carrots and Turnip Tops

The young green tops of carrots andturnips

,together wi th tender outside leaves

of cabbage, Should be boiled in salted waterfor about 5 minutes , then drained andrefreshed by running cold water over them

,


which will remove the bitterness of the

vegetables . Chop all fine or pass through amincer . Heat 1 oz . fat per lb . of greens

,

add the vegetables and a little moisture,milk or gravy, salt, pepper and nutmeg .

Cover with a lid and simmer until quitecooked . A little thickening may be addedat the finish . This has a taste like curly kale .

Stewed B eetroot

Materials .

—1 or 2 beetroots, 1 oz . fat,

1 sliced onion, salt and pepper, 1 tablespoonfu l of vinegar .

Method— Slice the beetroots thinly . Put

the fat into a saucepan and add the onion .

Cook till only fairly coloured, then add thebeet and season with salt and pepper . Stewwithout adding any liquid until the onionis cooked ; then add the vinegar and cookfor 15 minutes more . If desired creamy

,

add a little corn flour mixed smoothly incold water, toss well together, and let come

to the boil . A little fried bacon or gravycan be added if liked .

Scarlet Runners

Materials . oz . fat per lb . of beans, apinch of salt .

VEGETABLES 159

Method.—Cut the beans into strips, place

in a saucepan with a pinch of salt and thefat . Add water to surface of the beans ,cover with a lid and bring to the boil. Whennearly done, remove the lid and cook quicklyto reduce the liquid ; when nearly dry andcooked, dish up . Do not add too muchsalt .

Haricot Stew

Materials . oz . fat, 1 oz . choppedonion

, 5 oz . flour , 1 pint of cooked driedharicot beans

, 1 tablespoonful vinegar orWorcester sauce, a little chopped parsley .

Method — Fry the onion in the fat, whencooked add the flour . Mix well , then addthe beans , cover with water or vegetablestock, and season with salt and pepper .

Let stew together, tossing from time totime . Add the vinegar or Worcester saucestew for 10 minutes after the vinegar isadded , then dish up , sprinkled with choppedparsley .

Peas and red haricots can be cooked inthe same way .

Stufied Cabbage

Materials .— 1 cabbage ; when cooked ,weigh

and add an equal amount of chopped onion

VEGETABLES 161

When rice is used for filling add,ifpossible

,

grated cheese, and when bread is used 1 or2 oz . chopped nuts , in order to increase thefood value .

Cabbage

Quarter the cabbage , remove the stalk,

and shred the cabbage coarsely . It mayalso be kept in quarters , tied with stringand then cooked as directed . Place in asaucepan with 1 gill of water and 1 oz . of

fat for each lb . of cabbage . Cover with alid

,cook slowly till tender, stir with a fork

from time to time . About 20 minutes’

cooking is required .

Creamed Cabbage

Add to the‘ stoved chopped cabbage

1 tablespoonful or more of white sauce .

Simmer together for a few minutes .

Potato Omelet

Materials oz . fat, half-teaspoonful orless of chopped onion, 1 lb . mashed potatoes

(or baked potatoes are better) , salt, pepperand nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of choppedparsley .

Method .

—Fry the onion and fat togetherI I


in an omelet pan . Mix the potato,salt

,

pepper,nutmeg and parsley together ; add

to the fried onion and heat thoroughly .

Make into omelet shape, cook until itcolours

,and then turn out on a hot dish .

One or more eggs added to the above willof course make it more substantial . Mincedmeat

,chopped cheese or nuts can also be

added .

Potato Cheese en Casserole

Materials .

— 1 lb . raw potatoes,salt

,

pepper and nutmeg, 2 oz . chopped cheese,

water or milk .

Method.

—Slice the potatoes ,1, inch thick ,

season with salt, pepper and a little nutmeg .

Arrange in layers in a casserole,sprinkle

the cheese between the layers , and when allis in

,half fill the casserole with water or

milk and sprinkle more cheese on the top .

Cover with the lid and bake in the oven for1 hour, then remove the lid and allow tocolour .

One or two slices of raw onion at thebottom of the casserole may be added if

desired .

Stuffed Baked Potatoes

Materials — Some baked potatoes , salt,

VEGETABLES 163

pepper and nutmeg, 2 oz . finely choppednuts to each lb . of potatoes , a little choppedparsley

,a little milk, grated cheese and

breadcrumbs , a few drops of salad oil .Method — Split the baked potatoes in

halves,take out the pulp , mash with a

fork,add the parsley, salt, pepper and

nutmeg,and moisten with a little milk .

Add the chopped nuts, then refil l the shells

(skins ) with the mixture, sprinkle withgrated cheese and crumbs mixed

,baste

wi th a few drops of salad oil and baketo a nice brown colour . The dish may bevaried

,adding cooked fish , mince, etc . etc .

Bakers’ Potatoes

Materials .

— 1 lb . sliced potatoes,salt and

pepper, A; pint of water or stock, 4 oz . onion,

1 oz . fat, a little chopped parsley .

Method.

-Mix the potatoes , salt, pepper,onion

,fat and water or stock together .

Place in a baking-tin and bake for about1 hour . Dish up , and serve with choppedparsley on the top .

Potato (Tripe Style)

Materia ls .

- 1 lb . cooked sliced potatoes,

1 oz . fat, 2 oz . shredded onion, a little milk

VEGETABLES 165

Potato and Cheese Pudding

Materials - 8 oz . mashed potato, 2 oz .

grated cheese, a little chopped onion, salt,pepper or cayenne and nutmeg, 1 beatenegg, 1 oz . fat , 8 oz . self-raising flour, whitesauce (see p .

Method.

-Mix all the ingredients together,fill in a greased basin and steam for 2 hours .

Serve the pudding with white sauce,to which

add a little grated cheese .

Potato Salad

Materials .

—A few small potatoes , pepperand salt to taste

,a little vinegar, chopped

onion and parsley .

Method .

-Cook the potatoes in theirj ackets ; while hot peel and Slice, or u se

left over cold potato . Add the onion andparsley, pepper and salt to taste, and bastewith vinegar . If hot potato is used

,toss

and let get cold . A tablespoonful of saladoil per lb . is a good addition if available .

If the potatoes absorb too much vinegar,

add boiling milk to make the saladmoist .

If a creamy salad is desired,add mayon

naise sauce,or a very soft-boiled egg may


also be added instead of the mayonnaise . ItShould be well mixed in .

Macarom Croquettes and Peas

Materials — 4 oz . macaroni, 2 oz . cheese,grated or chopped finely, salt, pepper andnutmeg, a little white sauce (see p . afew peas to garnish .

Method.— B oil the macaroni in salted

water for 20 minutes ; if desired the watermay be flavoured with onion and aromaticherbs . When done, chop finely . Do notwash the macaroni after it is cooked ; if ithas to be washed, this should be done byparboiling it and then throwing the firstwater away . Then place again in freshboiling water . Put the cooked macaroniinto a saucepan, dry, and add the cheeseeither grated or chopped finely . Seasonwith salt, pepper, or cayenne and nutmeg,and add sufficient stiff white sauce to makeit creamy . B oil all together and place on adish to cool, about 4

3oi an inch thick all

over, and when cold cut into squares,triangles or diamonds, coat with batter andcrumbs, and bake in a hot oven . Garnishwith cooked pea s and serve with tomato orvegetable sauce . Use the macaroni water

VEGETABLES 167

for the sauce . If any remains it may beused for soup .

Vegetable Marrow and Cereal Salad

Materials .—1 marrow, 1 chopped onion,

tablespoonfuls of oil, 1 gill of rice, 2 gill svegetable stock or water, salt and pepper,1 tablespoonful vinegar, a little salad dressing highly seasoned, a few tomatoes, a littlechopped herbs .

Method.—Fry the onion in half a table

Spoonful of oil, add the rice, heat welltogether, and cover with twice the amount ofvegetable stock or water, season with saltand cayenne or paprika . Cook with the

lid tightly on for 20 minutes, then drop intoa basin containing 3 tablespoonfuls of oil

,

add the vinegar, and toss from time to time

till cold . Cook the marrow until it isthree-parts done , and then cut into stripsabout T

13of an inch thick . Season these well,

and dress in salad dressing highly seasoned .

Mix with the rice, dress in a salad bowl,arrange tomato round it and sprinkle withchopped herbs .

Egg, Cress and Haricot Bean Salad

Materials .—Haricot beans (hot and

VEGETABLES 169

ing of finely chopped onion, sprinkle withV inegar, and toss from time to time Mixthe peas and picked shrimps in the saladdressing, then mix all with the mayonnaisesauce, and dish up in a hors -d

’oeuvre dish

garnished with a few peas and shrimps .

Vegetable Cutlets

Materials — 1 oz . chopped onion, é oz .

fat, 1 oz . flour, 1 lb . mixed vegetables from

which stock has been made (they shouldbe drained as dry as possible ), salt and pepper,pinch of grated nutmeg, a little ground riceand batter (see p . crumbs , vegetablesauce .

Method.—Fry the onion in the fat till

cooked but not coloured . Add the flourand mix with the fat , then chop the mixedvegetables, add them, and heat all together .

Season with salt, pepper and a pinch ofnutmeg, bind the who le by boiling thoroughly, stirring all the time . Place on aplate to cool . When cold, Shape into pearShape, using ground rice or other flour .

Coat the shapes lightly with batter andbread or other crumbs . Roll them, stillretaining the pear shape

,now bend the

point and press down with a knife or with


the flat hand . This will.form them into

the shape of cutlets . To cook, fry m apan with very little fat . When one side isbrown, turn over and fry the other sidelikewise, or if fat is not available theycan be baked in the oven by mixing the

crumbs with a very little fat before coating,then place them on a baking-Sheet and bakein a hot oven until brown .

These are nice cold or hot , served with orwithout sauce .

Vegetable Cutlets with Pu lSe

To the foregoing recipe add an equalquantity of cooked

,sieved or minced pulse,

viz . lentils, haricot beans or peas . It ispreferable to u se a small mincing-machinefor this purpose

,if available

,as it is effective

and clean . All ingredients should be boiledtogether, otherwise they will not set firmenough for the shaping of the cutlets .

Finish as Cxplained before .

Vegetable Cutlets with Egg

To the prepared vegetable mixture add2 or more hard-boiled eggs chopped finely,or when dried eggs are used, they can be

VEGETABLES 171

scrambled before adding . In the latter casethey should be well done, so that the mixturedoes not become softened by the eggs added .

Vegetable Cutlets with Nuts

To the prepared vegetable mixture add2 oz . of chopped nuts, and finish as instructed .

Vegetable Cutlets with Cereals

The cereals should be thoroughly cooked,but as dry as possible . Mix them with thevegetable mixture and boil well together .

Finish as directed .

Vegetable and Haricot Bean Pie

Materials .—Any kind of vegetables , an

equal quantity of steamed haricot beans,

seasoning to taste , a little Worcester sauce ,mashed potatoes or crust .

Method.—Stove the vegetables as directed

for vegetable stock, cover with water, seasonto taste, and add sufficient Worcester sauceto remove the sweetness of the vegetables .

Let stew together to blend . Put the wholein a pie dish , let cool, and when cold, coverwith mashed potatoes or crust, and bake

C H A P T E R V I I

PASTRY,PUDDINGS AND SWEETS

WITH BUT LITTLE FAT on SUGAR

What is there to be proud of in waste or

extravagance

C H A P T E R V I I

PASTRY,PUDDINGS AND SWEETS

WITH BUT LITTLE FAT OR SUGAR

Pastry, Puddings and Sweets

ALMOST all sweets and pastry require twoof the most restricted articles of food— fat

and sugar,and others which are scarce and

dear . Fats are so scarce that they muston that account be used only in essentialfoods . Sugar is reduced to such a quantitythat it behoves adults to consume but littleof it in order that children and young peopleshould have their full share, and in mostcases to allow of some part of the rationbeing saved for jam-making . Further

,

cereals must be used sparingly . Dried fruitis expensive, and although a valuablefood , is certainly not always worth the pricedemanded . Milk and eggs are scarce andexpensive .

For adults, puddings and pastry are aluxury rather than a necessity, and when

175

PASTRY AND SWEETS 177

made good by adding milk powder or peaflour .

When using but little fat , rice flour andcorn flour help to shorten the pastry . It willbe seen, therefore, that it is yet possibleto supply sweets and pastries by combiningvarious substances such as are still available,especially in the preparing of nursery meals,where the protein and starchy foods are ofprimary importance .

Fruit,if fresh , is best eaten raw, as in the

cooking much of its value is destroyed . A

plum or apple eaten raw does not requireany additional flavouring or sugar , but ifcooked, requires sugar at all events to makeit palatable . Thus sugar is saved by eatingraw in preference to cooked fruit . B ut allfruit cannot be eaten raw . Rhubarb andunr ipe fruit must fir st be cooked to renderthem palatable and fit for food . But thoughcooked fruit may taste sour it is best not tosweeten it too much , as by doing so much ofthe value is destroyed .

Fortunately we can often make u se ofpotatoes in pastry, scones and buns, andthen a little white of egg helps to give themthe required body . Without this additionthey are usually doughy, especially when alarge amount of potato is used .

1 2

178 THE VICTORY COOKERY B OOK

In making puddings all c ereals can be

used, but when employing those which are

short in gluten it is best to sca ld them orboil them partially and then add the otheringredients to them . Steaming is the bestmethod of cooking, and very little leaveningpower Should be used . All sweet, starchyfood should be served more or less solid ;in a sloppy state it is not wholesome, asall starch requires thorough mastication inorder to ensure proper digestion . The moremoisture added to cereals the les s food valuethey possess, except, of course, in the case ofmilk

,for milk is in itself a valuable food

,

which is the reason why milk puddings andother combinations of cereals and milk are

recommended for children and invalids .

For the same reason milk should not be usedas a drink with solid food instead of water,for the casein becomes solid in process ofdigestion and does not wash out the systemas thoroughly as does water .

Potato and Apple Cheese Cake

Materials — 1 oz . fat, 2 oz . sugar, 2 driede ggs, 1 lb . dry mashed potatoes, pint ofmilk

, 1 oz . corn or potato flour, 4 oz . chopped

PASTRY AND SWEETS

apples, a little golden syrup , some shortpaste (see p .

Method.

— Cream the fat , sugar and eggstogether ; add the potatoes, milk and cornor potato flour and mix well together, thenadd the apples . Line greased patty panswith short paste, fill with the mixture andthen cover with slices of apple and bake .

When done, brush the apple over with hotgolden syrup to give a Shine on the top .

Special Paste for Fru it Tartlets

Materials .— Equal quantities of potato pie

crust and maize suet paste (see pp . 181 and

Method.—Mix the ingredients together .

This is a paste which will bear fruit juicewell, such as rhubarb, gooseberries or anyother kind . It bakes very well, and has atexture as if egg had been added .

Tapioca and Potato Paste for SavouryPies

Materials .—1 lb . mashed potatoes, 4 oz .

French granulated tapioca or Englishtapioca ( soaked overnight in 1 gill of milkor water ) , 1 oz . milk powder (this is notessential ), 1 teaspoonful baking powder, 2 oz .


Haricot Paste

Materials .—1 lb . haricot beans (steamed

and sieved ), 2 oz . rice flour , 4 oz . salt ,1 oz. fat .

Method.

— Scald the rice flour in 1 gill ofboiling water and mix with the beans,adding the salt and fat . No moisture .

Pie Crust with Ground Rice

Materials .— 4 oz . ground rice

, 3 oz .

dripping,a little salt and baking powder

,

4 oz . flour, 31-5 gill of water .

Method.

— Mix the ground rice with the

dripping and a pinch of salt and bakingpowder ; add the flour and water

,mix into

the dough and let rest before using .

Pie Crust with Potato

Materials .—8 oz . mashed potatoes, 1 to

1% oz . fat, 4 oz . ground rice, 4 oz . selfraising flour .

Method.— Rub the fat into the mashed

potatoes ; when thoroughly blended addthe ground rice and let rest for a while, sothat the rice can absorb sufficient moisture .

Then add the self-raising flour and make


into a short paste . If too dry add a littlemoisture

,but that is very seldom required .

B e careful not to moisten too much . It isbest to keep the paste fairly firm, otherwiseit will be tough . Roll out , using groundrice for the purpose

,then cover the me In

the usual manner .

Haricot Beans and R ice Pastry forPie Covering

Materials — 1 lb . cooked haricot beans,

lb . cooked rice, 1 oz . fat , salt and pepper .

Method — Mash or mince the haricot beanswith the rice , add fat

,salt and pepper .

Mix well together on a floured pastryboard . Roll out with a rolling-pin and u se

to cover the pie instead of paste . Thisshould be carefully done, as the paste isbrittle . Cu t to shape, lift into place witha slice or two knives, fringe the edges, andbake in a very hot oven to colour .

Maize Paste

Materials . pint of water, 1 oz . fat , apinch of salt

, 1 gill maize meal, 4 oz . selfral smg flour .

Method.

— B oil the water with the salt


and fat,add the raw maize and cook for

10 minutes, stirring meanwhile . Cool untiltepid . Mix with the flour by placing the

flour on board and mixing the maize into it .

Place on a cloth and roll it out . It is sobrittle that it is difficult to handle . Use

for savoury maize rolls and boiled puddings .

Short Paste

Materials . oz . rice flour, oz . tapioca ,oz . milk powder, 2 gills water, 72 oz . fat ,lb . rice flour, i lb . flour , oz . baking powder ,4oz . salt .

Method.

— Mix the first three ingredientscold in one gill of water, and boil untilstiff

,stirring all the time . Mix the rice

flour,

flour, baking powder, fat and salttogether, add the boiled preparation andmix all together, adding sufficient waterto make a fairly soft paste (about 1 gill ) .Roll and u se .

This is excellent for turnovers, pies andtarts .

Suet Cru st (for Dumplings , Rolls, Fruitor Savoury Puddings )

Materials .—1 lb . flour , 1 lb . raw potatoes,

1 oz . suet , 1 oz . fat (or 2 oz . fat if suet


then turn out . The caramel will serve assauce . If all the caramel is not dissolved,add ‘a little water and boil it out .

Maize B atter PuddingMaterials — 2 oz . maize meal, 3} pint

water, 3 oz . rice flour, 2 oz . suet , half-teaspoonful baking powder

,1 egg, 1 gill of

milk, 1 oz . sugar, 1 oz . coco-nut , flavouring .

Method.— B oil the water and suet , add

the maize,and cook till the moisture

is absorbed . Add sugar , milk, coco-nutand egg ; work well . Mix the rice flourand baking powder together and add tothe other ingredients . Grease a puddingbasin, fill in the material and steam for2 hours

,or divided into four smaller shapes

1 hour would be enough . Serve with jamor custard .

Monkeys

Materials .-4 oz . dates or chopped dr ied

fruit of any kind, a little lemon or orangepeel, Spice to taste, 1 oz . coco-nut, a littlej am to bind, some potato paste or Shortbread (see pp . 181 andMethod.

—B oil the orange or lemon peeltill tender, then mix with the dates or fruit,


adding Spice to taste , and the coco-nut,

and mix with a little j am to bind . Placebetween two layers of potato paste or

potato shortbread, press together with the

blunt side of a pastry cutter , make a hole inthe centre, and bake in a good oven till thepaste is cooked— about 15 minutes or more .

Rhubarb and Rice Cakes

Materials .

— l gill of rice, 1 pint of milk,1 bunch of forced rhubarb or 2 sticks ofnatural , 1 or 2 tablespoonfu ls of goldensyrup , a few drops of almond essence, sugarto taste, short paste (see p .

Method.

—B oil the rice and milk togetherfor 30 minutes , then add the golden syrupand almond essence . Shred the rhubarband stew till it forms a pulp . Sweeten totaste Line a dish with short paste, prickthe bottom . Spread with rhubarb, coverwith the rice, and then wet the edges . Cut

the short paste into strips and arrangetrellis fashion on the top . B ake for 30

minutes . Serve hot or cold . The rhubarbmay be replaced by apple or j am .

Yorkshire Pudding with Fru it

Materials .—

.Yorkshire pudding mixture ,


fruit to garnish , little spiced sugar or othersweet substance .

Method.—When the usual Yorkshire

pudding mixture is half baked, garnish itwith fruit , such as damsons, bullaces orany other variety or mixture available .

Finish it by baking, and then sprinkle itwith spiced sugar or any other sweet substance which may be acceptable, such ashoney or fruit sauce .

Apple Suet Pudding

Materials .

—Some sliced apples , sprinklingof moist sugar and spice, suet paste (seep .

Method.

—Roll the paste out thinly andline it three-quarters with sliced apples .

Sprinkle with moist sugar and spice . Nowroll the paste up

— the part which has notbeen spread with apples will form a doublecover The pudding is then cooked in the

usual way .

'

Of course all kinds of fruitcan be used in this recipe . Plums must bestoned and dried fruit soaked before u se .

Bread Dough Galette

Materials .—Bread dough , j am or grated


using 1 dried egg instead of two fresh, theother ingredients remaining the same .

Maize J am Roll

Materials — 1 pint of water, 2 oz . choppedsuet (or 1g» oz . fat ), a pinch of salt, 4 lb .

maize semolina , Alb . prepared flour .

Method.— B oil the water, suet, salt and

maize semolina cook by stirring till it leavesthe Sides of the pan . Take out of the paninto a basin and mix with the prepared flour .

Wet a pudding-cloth in cold water, placethe paste on it, and roll out into a Square .

Spread the j am over it and roll up by liftingthe cloth . When the roll is shaped, Shutthe ends and roll in the cloth , tie loosely andboil in water (do not steam ) for I .) to 2

hours .

Bread J elly

Materials .—Odd pieces of bread left over

,

syrup or sugar to sweeten, a little flavouringas desired .

Method.-Take any pieces of bread left

over, place in a pan of water, bring to theboil and place on the back of the stove ;cover the pan, and simmer as long as possible—5 to 8 hours . The bread must not be


stirred, and as the water will evaporatemore may have to be added . When the

bread breaks up and begins to jelly, sweetenwith syrup or sugar and flavour as desired .

Turn out into a pudding mould and let

cool ; when cold it will be like a jelly . All

cereals— tapioca, sago, rice, macaroni— canbe treated like this, so a variety of jelliescan be made without gelatine . They turncloudy in the coo ling . Fruit juice may beadded, and thus an excellent sweet is made .

Potato Gateau

Materials .—4 oz . dry mashed potato, \1 oz .

fat, 1 oz . sugar, 1 gill of milk, 1 beaten egg,

flavouring to taste, 1 oz . corn flour or otherstarch, 1 tablespoonful of j am, some pie

crust (see p .

Method.— Line a greased sandwich tin

with pie crust . Mix the potato, fat, sugar,milk

, egg, flavouring and corn flour together .

Line the crust with the j am, and pour thepotato mixture in the centre and spread outlevel . B ake in a moderate oven for 20

minutes .The whole can be covered with paste or

with strips of paste in trellis fashion,accord

ing to taste .


Potato Rocks

Materials .— 1 lb . dry mashed potato ,

1h. rice flour , 5 lb . self-raising flour, 1

tablespoonful oil or 1 oz . of fat, 2 oz . sugar,4 oz . baked beetroot, flavouring and spice,1 gill of moisture .

Method.—Cut the beetroot into diamond

shapes . Mix the fat and potato togetherthoroughly to make it light, add the riceflour and mix well . Let this rest as longas possible, or even prepare the day beforerequired . Then mix lightly with the otheringredients, last of all adding the moisture .

Make into rocks with a fork on a greasedbaking-Sheet, and bake in a fairly hot ovenfor from 15 to 20minutes . The beetroot willturn sultana colour .

Potato Scones

Materials — é lb . dry mashed potatoes,4 oz . rice flour, a pinch of sugar (not essential ),1 beaten white of egg, 4 oz . flour, oz .

baking powder .

Method.

—Mix the potato, rice flour, andsugar together, and allow to rest for a fewhours, then add the loosely beat

‘

en whiteof egg (or half a dry egg ), flour and baking


in a basin, mixing in the potato,sugar

,

flavouring and coco-nut . Place a layer ofthis in a pie-dish , spread with jam and coverwith the remainder of the maize preparation .

Brush over with fat and bake to a nice colour .

The pie-dish should be placed in a baking

tin with water to prevent overheating at thebottom of the dish .

Potato and Maize Pudding— 2

Materials — g lb . maize, pint of milk,

glb . dry mashed potatoes , almond flavouringto taste , 1 oz . ground almonds, 1 beaten egg ,

1 oz . sugar or syrup , 1 oz . fat, 4 oz . steamedor baked chopped beetroot .

Method.—Soak the maize in the milk over

night for about 8 hours . Add all the re

maining ingredients, mix together, and bakein a pie-dish like a bread-and-butter pudding .

The above ingredients will make a steamedpudding by adding 3 oz . Self-raising flourand steaming for 2 hours or more .

Semolina Cheese Cakes

Materials — 1 gill maize semolina, 1 p intof milk and water mixed, sugar or syrup tosweeten, a little almond essence, a little j am .

I 3


Method.

—B oil the maize semolina in the

milk and water (or all milk if “ desired) .Place in a tin and steam for 1 hour . Turninto a basin, sweeten with the sugar orsyrup

,and add the almond essence to flavour .

Line patty pans with potato paste, place alittle j am of any kind at the bottom

,cover

with the semolina, and bake in a moderateoven till nicely coloured— about 20 minutes .

Maize and Marmalade Charlotte

Line some timbale moulds with potatoshort paste (see p . One-third fill withmarmalade

,then, till three-quarters fu ll

,with

the maize prepared as in previous recipe .

Bake for 20 minutes . Turn out , and servewith custard .

Orange Maize PuddingMaterials .

—2 oz . maize semolina, 1 gill

water, 1 oz . suet or fat, 4 oz . soaked andsqueezed bread crusts , 1 oz . marmalade

,

gill of milk, a pinch of salt, flavour totaste

,and a few drops of cochineal

, 2 oz .

self-raising flour .

Method.

—Boil the maize semolina andfat together in the water . When dry, add


the bread, marmalade, milk, salt , flavouringand cochineal , and last of all mix in the

flour . Steam for 2 hours , and serve withcustard sauce or marmalade sauce .

Sago J elly

Materials . lb . prunes or other driedfruit

, 1 bay leaf, a few cloves, 2 oz . sago,

a few drops of cochineal , almond andcaramel essence, a little diluted corn orpotato flour .

Method.— B oil lb . prunes in 1 quart of

water,with the bay leaf and cloves

,till

tender . When done, remove 1 pint ofthe liquid remaining, and slowly boil thiswith the sago until the liquid is clear, noneof the sago being visible . Colour with afew drops of cochineal and caramel todeepen the prune colour, also a few dropsof almond essence . Pour it , when boiling,into a wetted mould to set

, and dish upgarnished with the remainder of the prunes .

The liquid remammg should be slightlythickened with diluted corn or potato flourand poured round the mould .

The same method can b e used with anykind of fru it or fruit juice, and can be servedwithout the fruit

,adding a custard sauce .


or two pint moulds or smaller sizes, as thecase may be . Next line with sugar orcrushed coco-nut

,and fill three-quarters full

with the mixture . Then place the mouldin a saucepan of boiling water (the watershould reach to half the height of the

mould ), bring the water to the boil again,boiling until the mixture has risen nearlyto the edge of the mould . Place the saucepan (without the lid ) in a moderate oven,and cook . Small moulds require 20minutes,pints 30 to 40 minutes, quarts 1 hour toI i hour . Serve with custard or fruit sauce

(see p .

Apple Charlotte

Materials — i oz . fat, 5 oz . sugar, 4 oz .

dried apples, a little clove or cinnamon andlemon rind to flavour, potato short cru st

(see p .

Method.—Fry the fat and sugar till toffee

is formed ; add the apples, and cover withwater (about 1 pint ) . Cook slowly untilthe apples break up , then add the flavouring .

Line timbale moulds with potato shortcrust, fill with the mixture, and bake for20 to 30 minutes .


Baked Maize and Apple Pudding

Materials .—8 oz . maize semolina, 1 lb .

apples peeled and chopped , 2 oz . sugar orsyrup, 2 beaten eggs (dried ), a little fat andcrumbs, 1 clove or little lemon rind, jam orparsnip sauce .

Method.—Cook the maize semolina in

1 pint and 1 gill of water until dry (about15 to 20 minutes ) . Add the apples, sugarand eggs, and mix all well together . Linesmall timbale moulds with fat and crumbs

,

fill the mould nearly full with the mixture,and bake in a moderate oven for 25 to30 minutes . Serve with jam or parsnipsauce to which the peelings and the coresof the apples have been added .

A clove can be placed at the bottom ofthe mould, or a little lemon flavour added tothe mixture .

Orange Pudding

Materials .— 8 oz . stale bread, 2 oz . chopped

suet, 1 orange, 2 oz . sugar, custard .

Method.—Soak the bread ; squeeze all

the moisture out and mix with the suet .

A dust of flour is used while chopping thesuet

,as it prevents it from sticking to the

chopper Peel the orange, and shred or


chop the peel finely . B oil it in water untiltender, then add the juice of the orangeand the sugar

,and boil all together until

it begins to thicken . Put this with the

bread and suet and mix well, then placein a greased basin and steam for 2 hours .

When done, turn out the pudding, and servewith custard made with custard powder .

Marmalade may be used in place of theorange and sugar .

Mince Meat

Materials .—2 oz . chopped suet, 4 oz .

chopped apples, fried in a little fat, the applepeels, 2 oz . baked parsnip, 2 oz . beetrootjam, 5 oz . mixed fruit, or currants, raisinsand dates (elderberry flowers will give theraisin flavour ), the boiled peel of a lemon,the boiled peel of an orange . Pass all thesethrough a mincer and then add— a few dropsof caramel , almond essence to taste, the

juice of the orange and lemon, oz . groundginger, oz . ground cinnamon, l oz . groundclove, 1

16 oz . ground nutmeg . Mix all

together and press in a jar for one day beforeu se . Baked beetroot cut into small diamonds may be

i

used instead of sultanaraisins .


cool . Fill the plate with this mixtur e, wetthe edges, roll out part of the paste and cutinto strips . Arrange these trellis fashion overthe gnocchi preparation and bake in a hotoven . Serve hot .

Potato Lemon Pudding

Materia ls — 1 lb . baked potatoes, 2 oz .

sugar or syrup , the grated rind of a lemon,

2 dried eggs, 4 oz . prepared flour, 1 gill ofmilk, custard sauce .

Method.—Take the pulp of the potatoes,

mix with the other ingredients . Grease apudding basin, fill in the mixture and steamfor at least 2 hours . Serve with custardsauce (see p .

C H A P T E R V I I I

EGG DISHES

C H A P T E R V I I I

EGG DISHES

To Prepare Dried Eggs

PREPARE according to directions on the

box .

The Use of Dried Eggs

These may be used in the same manner aswhole fresh eggs .

Egg Turnovers

Method—Prepare short paste (see p .

fill with scrambled ‘

eggs, and shape as turnovers . B ake in a hot oven . Other materialmay be added

,such as cooked flaked fish

,

chopped nuts, cooked chopped potato, gratedcheese, herbs, etc . Serve hot or cold .

Poached Eggs J ardiniere

Materials .—A few mixed vegetables


(cooked ), sufficient white sauce to creamor bind (see p . eggs .

Method.—Cook the vegetables as directed

for stock (see p . drain well . Dry overthe fire and add sufficient white sauce tobind . Place in a dish

,and arrange the

poached eggs on the vegetables .

Egg Aurora

Materials — 2 hard-boiled eggs, whitesauce and tomato sauce in equal quantities,breadcrumbs or chopped yolk of hard-boiledegg .

Method.

—Slice the eggs, mix the whitesauce and tomato sauce together , place alittle on a dish , arrange the sliced egg, coverwith sauce, sprinkle with crumbs or choppedyolk of hard-boiled egg , and bake lightly inan ‘oven or under a grill .

Omelette with Dried Eggs

Omelettes are made as well with driedeggs as with fresh . The eggs should be

beaten till thoroughly blended but not frothy .

Season with salt and pepper and any additiondesired

,such as parsley, cheese, minced ham ,

potato,shrimps, chopped fish , vegetables,

EGG DISHES 207

etc . Only 4 oz . fat should be used for 2 or3 eggs —more fat spoils the omelette . Havethe fat hot in the pan before adding the

eggs . B e careful when using dried eggs notto add more water than three times the weightof egg ,

otherwise the mixture will separatein the cooking, and they must be thoroughlysoaked for at least 12 hours and be quitesmooth .

Baked Marrow or Cucumber and Egg

Materials .—1 marrow, thick white sauce

(see p . a little grated cheese, tomatoor other sauce , seasoning to taste, 1 egg (hardboiled ) , a little flour and frying batter orcrumbs, some mashed potato .

Method.—Cook the marrow (see p .

but keep fairly firm, drain, and trim the

pieces 2 inches by 2 inches . Mash the

trimmings, which boil with a thick whitesauce as stiff as possible, mix with gratedcheese and season highly, as without thismarrow is insipid . Cut the egg into diceor chop finely, or, if desired , Slice it . Putthis into the sauce and sandwich the twoslices of marrow together . It is essentialthat the marrow should be well dried

,other

WIse the pieces will not hold together . When

EGG DISHES 209

Eggs Poulette

Materials — 2 hard-boiled eggs, oz . of fat,

1 onion, pint white sauce (see p . afew sliced cooked mushrooms, a few drops oflemon juice, a little chopped parsley .

Method.—Slightly fry the onion in the fat

and cut in slices, and mix thi s with the whitesauce and cook till the onions are done . Add

the mushrooms and lemon juice . Slice theeggs, mix all together, heat thoroughly,

anddish up with chopped parsley sprinkled on top .

Scrambled Eggs with Bread Sauce

Materials — 2 oz . bread , é pint cold milk,salt and pepper and nutmeg or mace

, 2

dried eggs , e.g . , 1 oz . dried egg and 3 oz . or3 tablespoonfuls of water .

Method.

—Break up the bread and pourthe cold milk over it , season to taste . Boilvery slowly . The bread will break up easierthis way than when breadcrumbs are used .

When soft , work well to make it creamy,

or pass through a sieve . Add to this thedried eggs . (It takes about 8 hours to soakfor granulated eggs and 1 hour for powder . )Work well together, then scramble all together and season to taste .

1 4


No fat is required .

This makes a creamy mass, and of coursemuch larger quantity than when eggs aloneare used .

Maize and Egg Savoury

Materials — Polenta (see p . scrambledegg , a little grated cheese or breadcrumbs .

Method.—Cut the polenta into pieces

,

cover with a cushion of scrambled eggs,

sprinkle with grated cheese, and bake to agolden brown .

Maize Woodcock

Materials .—Scrambled eggs, a round of

polenta (see p . a few fillets of anchovy .

Method.

- Lay a layer of scrambled eggs ona square or round of polenta . Place a fewfillets of anchovy crosswise on the top, andheat in the oven .

Bu ck Rarebit

Materials — A round or square of polenta ,

a table spoonful of rarebit mixture, 9. poachedegg .

Method.— Spread the cheese mixture on

the po lenta . B ake to a golden brown, placethe poached egg, well drained, on the top .

EGG DISHES 211

How to Poach an Egg

Boil sufficient water in a small pan to coverthe egg, add 1 tablespoonful of vinegar .

When it boils, place the whole egg with shellon a tablespoon and dip it in the boilingliquid for 2 or 3 seconds . Take the egg out,break it and drop it directly over the surfaceof the water in the liquid, or break the egg ona saucer and carefully let it slide into theboiling liquid . Cover with the lid, removethe pan off the fire . Let poach for 3

minutes,then carefully take out the egg,

place in warm water to wash the vinegaraway, and drain on a cloth .

To place it on toast, hold the toast to theside of the egg and lift the egg with the clothso that the egg turns over on to the toast .

Polenta may be used instead of toast .

Poached eggs can be served with anygarnish and sauce .

C H A P TE R I !

BREAD,CAKES AND SCCNES

Knowledge is power : let us be ready tolearn all we can .

CH A P TE R I !

BREAD, CAKES AND SCONES

Potato Sandwich or Cake

Materials — 2 oz . fat , 2 oz . sugar, 3 eggs

(dried or fresh ), 1 teaspoonful bakingpowder, little beetroot jam (see p .

1 lb . mashed potato, grated rind of halfa lemon, 4 lb . rice flour

, 1 tablespoonfulwhisky or brandy .

Method — Cream the fat and sugar,then

add the eggs little by little, and the potatoand lemon rind , and beat as lightly aspossible . Mix the rice flour and bakingpowder thoroughly together and pass througha sieve

,and add this to the mixture, together

with the whisky or brandy . Grease andflour two sandwich tins, or prepare a cakehoop similarly with paper at the bottomto form a drum . Fill with the mixture,spread smooth , and bake in a moderate oven .

When cold spread with jam, or Split thecake and line with beetroot jam .

BREAD , CAKES AND SCONES 217

baking-sheet for 15 to 20 minutes . Whenhalf baked, turn over and finish cooking .

Maize Sandwich Cake

Materials — i lb . finest maize semolina ,pint of milk, 2 oz . fat , 2 oz . sugar, 3 dried

eggs, 4 oz . mashed potato, rind of half alemon, a few drops of almond essence, 1tablespoonful Spirit, 1} lb . self-raising flour,juice of half a lemon .

Method.— Soak the maize in the milk for

8 to 12 hours . Cream the fat and sugar,add the eggs and potato, lemon rind andalmond essence , and beat to make as lightas possible . Now add the maize and selfraising flour, lemon juice and spirit . Placein a cake tin or sandwich tins and bake ina moderate oven . If baked as a sandwich ,

spread with jam .

Potato and J am Rings

Materials .—2 oz . syrup, 1} lb . potato

purée, oz . fat, 1 teaspoonful baking

powder , 1 dried egg , lb . rice flour, lb .

standard flour, j am for filling .

Method.—Mix the syrup

,potato purée,

fat and egg together, beating as lightly


as possible . Add the rice flour, standardflour and baking powder . Fill in a forcingbag with star or rose tube and force out onto a baking-sheet, greased and dusted withflour, to form rings . B ake in a moderateoven . When baked, fill the centre with

Hot Potato Cake

Materials .— 1 lb . mashed potato , 2 oz . fat ,

2 oz . sugar, a pinch of salt , a little flavou ring(lemon or vanilla ) , 2 eggs

,a few bread

crumbs,syrup .

Method.

—This is made with cookedpotatoes

,preferably baked . Mix the potato,

fat,sugar , the yolks of the eggs

,salt

,

and flavou ring to taste, lightly fold in the

white of eggs beaten to a firm froth . Linea cake tin with fat and breadcrumbs and

fill with the mixture . B ake for about30 minutes and serve with syrup , or if anyjuice is left over from the stewed fruit , boilthis up and thicken with diluted potato orcorn flour to a light syrup , and u se .

Potato Rock Cakes

Materials — g; lb . dry mashed potatoes,1 dessertspoonful of oil or fat , 4 oz . rice


flour, 4 oz . ordinary flour, oz . bakingpowder, oz . Spice, —5 oz . sugar and beetroot chips or fruit .

Method.

— Mix the mash with the oil ;add the rice flour

,and let rest for 12 hours

or more,then mix with the other ingredients

but do not add any moisture . Prepare bycutting with a fork parcels of paste, placethese on a baking-sheet and spread out tomake them look larger . Let rest for 10 to15 minutes , then bake in a Sharp oven .

Maize and Potato Cakes

Materia ls . pint milk,

lb . potatopurée, 1 gill maize meal , a little j am andflour, oz . fat , 1 oz . sugar or syru p ,

almondflavou ring .

Method.— B oil the milk with the potato,

maize meal and fat for 20 minutes ; addthe syru p or sugar and almond flavouringto taste . Place on a dish to cool quitelevel, or fill a bread tin with the mixture .

When cold cut into squares or slices, dustwith flour , grease a frying-pan or bakingsheet and fry or bake to a nice colour . Servewith jam .

Turn Overs

Materials .—Potato short paste (see p .


in the same manner, but pea s give the

best flavoured bread .

Potato Buns

Materials r —é lb . mashed potato , 4 oz .

rice flour , 4 lb . ordinary yea st dough,

oz .

sugar, a little spice, 1 oz . liquid fat, fru itor beetroo t chips .

Method — Mix the potato with the riceflour and let this rest for 12 hours or more .

A natural ferment will change part of thesta rch into sugar , and the paste will be quitesweet after that time . To the bread doughadd the prepared mixture, spice, sugar andthe liquid fat or oil , fruit or beetroot chips .

Shape into buns, place on grea sed tins dustedwith flour , cover and let fully prove, thenbake in a hot oven for 15 to 20minutes .

Potato Rolls

Materi als — s lb . bread dough , 1 lb .

mashed potatoes, oz . fat, 1 egg , a little salt .

Method —Mix the ingredients into a stiffpaste and form into rolls . Place on a clothsprinkled thickly with rice flour (this mustbe used aga in) , allow to rise, not quite full ,turn over on the baking-Sheet, an d then bak e


in a hot oven . These can be made withbaking powder, in which case leave for 10 to15 minutes before baking .

The rolls flattened with a rolling-pin,lightly spread with beetroot or other jam,

rolled and baked, are good for children’s teas ;

Potato Scones

Materials .—1 lb . dry mashed potatoes,

oz . fat , 1 white of egg, a little salt, lb .

self-raising flour .

Method.-Mix the ingredients together,

adding moisture, if necessary, to make a softdough . Shape into scones, and allow torest for 10 to 15 minutes, then bake in theoven or on the hot-plate or girdle .

If the scones are baked in a frying-pancovered with a lid, they are then kept freefrom draught during the cooking and are

very successful . When risen, turn over, andfinish baking .

Drop Scones

Materials . lb . dry mashed potato, 1

whole beaten egg, lb . pr epared flour, alittle water and milk, a little salt and a pinchof sugar .

Method—Mix the potato,egg, flour, salt

B READ, CAKES AND SCONES 223

and sugar with sufficient water and milkto make a stiff batter . Drop the mixtureon a lightly greased hot-plate or in a fryingpan, and, when set

, turn over, but do not letthem rest too long on one side . Potatoeslose body in the cooking ; it is, therefore,better that all paste made with potatoshould be kept firm, that is without muchliquid .

Maize and Potato Bread

(A B READ OF WHI CH ONE CANNOT EAT

MUCH )

Materials—1 lb . potatoes, oz . salt,5 lh . ma ize semolina , lb . flour , 1 oz .

yeast , 4 oz . rice flour .

Method.— B oil the potatoes and oz . of

salt in water . When done, drain (reservethe water ) and mash, Return the potato tothe liquid, which should be 1 pint . B oilagain

,and add the ma ize, cooking until all

moisture ha s been absorbed . Place in a tinor double cooker and steam for 1 hour .

Prepare a bread dough with the flour , yeastand oz . salt .

’ When the maize is cooked,turn out and allow to cool until just tepid,then mix with the bread dough . Shape intoloaves, and place in greased bread tins,

C H A P T E R !

SUNDRIES,INCLUDING POCKET

INVALID DISHES

W'

hat is asked of our fighting men Theirl ives—their limbs . What is asked of u s ?

Economy in Food and in Fuel .

C H A P T E R !

SUNDRIES, INCLUDING POCKET

LUNCHES AND INVALID DISHES

Beetroot J am

Materials .— 2 lb . beetroot , 1 oz . sago

,

4 lb . raspberry or other strongly flavouredjam

,a little almond essence or raspberry

flavour, cochineal .Method.

— Roll the beetroot in a sheet ofpaper and bake like a baked potato, orplace in a tin after thoroughly scrubbingand washing, but do not break the skin, orthe beet will bleed . Allow about 2 hoursto cook . When done, peel and pass througha mincing-machine until quite fine . Soakthe sago for 12 hours or more in 1 pint ofcold water , then boil until clear, and addthe beetroot . Th i s Should be done in apreserving - pan . Then add the jam, andboil on until thick enough , and then addthe flavouring , and pour into jars .

This jam will keep for a week, but if desired

SUNDRIES 229

in which the sago has been previouslysoaked . Add the sugar, and boil until clear,flavouring with almond essence to make1 pint .

The liquid of any apple peelings and coresavailable, fir st boiled in water until doneand then strained, can be used with the

above instead of water .

Marmalade— 1

Materials —1 orange, half a lemon, 2 oz .

tapioca or oz . agar-agar (a vegetablegelatine) , 4 oz . sugar, colouring

”

.

Method.— Cut the rinds of the orange and

lemon, shred finely, place in cold water, andbring to the boil . Strain the water off,and cover with fresh water and boil untiltender . Soak the tapioca or agar-agar untilsoft , add to the Shr edded peel, and makeup to 2 of a pint . Now add the sugar andjuice of the fruit, bring to the boil, and cooktill three-quarters of the original quantityis left, then pour into a dry, warm jar atonce to set .

Marmalade— 2

Materials .—1 orange

, 1 lemon, 8 oz .

grated carrot, 2 oz . soaked tapioca, 8 oz .


Stigar, almond essence to taste, colourcochineal or caramel .

‘Method.

—B oil the skins of the orange andlemon in water for 5 minutes, then removethe water and add fresh . Then boil theskins until tender ; remove the greater

part of the pith of the skins, shred the re

mainder , place in a preserving-pan with the

red part only of the grated carrot . Add

the’ tapioca (soaked overnight for at least

12 hours ) and sugar , bring to the boil,skim, cover with a lid, and Simmer for 30 to40 minutes . Add a few d rops of almondessence to taste, and pour into hot jars .

This should produce 2 lb . of preserve .

Potato Cheese

Materials — 1 lb . mashed potato, 2 oz . fat ,2 oz . rinds of cheese grated finely or chopped,1 oz . salt, cayenne (as much as will lie ona Sixpence) , 1 gill of milk, 4 oz . potatoflour, 1 oz . milk powder, 1 teaspoonful ofmustard

,colouring .

Method.—VVork all the ingredients well

together,place over the fire and stir until

boiling hot . Place in a muslin in a basinwith a saucer or small plate on the top .

SUNDRIES 2 1

When cold, take out of the basin and keepfor one week beforeu se .

This will ou t like cheddar cheese . Crushedwith a fork and with a little white sauceadded, it forms a creamy mixture whichmakes excellent rarebits when spread onpolenta or toast and baked until just brownedin a fairly hot oven or under the gas grill .

Maize Crumbs

Materials . pint of water oz . ofsalt

,lb . maize semolina , 5 oz . rice

flour .

Method.

—Boil the water and salt , add themaize, then stir, and keep over the fire tillall the moisture is absorbed . Turn outon a pastry-board and allow to cool . Mixwith the rice, flour and crumb all ; whenquite free grain from grain, pass througha

' coarse sieve or colander . Three-quartersfill a cocoa tin loosely with the crumbs ,cover with a muslin and the lid, then placein boiling water , or steam for E}; oi an hour .

Remove the lid , turn out the contents ona sieve , lightly break up and pass withoutpressure through the sieve again . Thesewill keep any time .

If they are too dry after a while, moisten

SUNDRIES 233

Extract of Fat and Gelatine from Bones

B reak the bones small, place in a jar,add 1 gill of water to each pound of bones

,

seal the j ar as tightly as possible, and steamfor 6 hours .

Examp les— 7 oz . loin of mutton bone

produced— 1 oz . fat , 2 oz . j elly, 1% oz . meat .

1 lb . 9 oz . veal bones produced— H; oz . fat ,1 gill or 5 oz . jelly, 8 oz . meat . 4 lb . beefbones , leg and loin, produced— 5 oz . fat ,11 oz . jelly, 10 oz . gristle and meat .

The jelly should be used in pies , the gristlefor croquettes, rissoles, patties, and variousother preparations mentioned in the recipesin this .book .

To Make Coating Batter

This batter is used instead of egg onrissoles, etc .

Mix 4 oz . of flour or a mixture of flour

(half of which must be Wheaten flour ) withhalf a pint of water or milk, or water andmilk, and a pinch of salt . When the articlescoated are to be baked, a little oil addedto the batter is most helpful to give a goodcolour to the crumbs .

To make batter for coating fish or othersubstances baked instead of fried , less


moisture must be used . It should be sothick that it hangs on well , and at least halfa gill of oil should be added with the liquidand baking powder (see Frying Batter ) .

Fats

Fats must be used as moderately aspossible . Oil, if obtainable, is an economicalfat . It may b e used with coco-butter withgood resu lts .

An Inexpensive Frying Batter withou t Egg

Mix 2 tablespoonfuls of self-raising flourwith a dessertspoonful of oil, Salt , pepperand sufficient milk or water to make the

batter . This should adhere to the materialto be cooked, but it should not be too stiff .Suitable for sweet (without pepper ) or

savoury disheSand for frying or baking .

The Use of Stale B read

The bread should be dried in an oven, andstored either whole or ground and passedthrough a sieve . The crumbs are used forbread crumbing, stuffings, etc . the wholebread being soaked for puddings and soups.

SUNDR IES 235

Bread Panada

Soak 2 oz . of bread in milk or water , drainwell

,and stir over the fire to boiling-point

until a stiff paste is formed .

Biscu it Meal

Any left over (raw ) paste from pies, etc . ,

should be rolled out and baked , dried in avery slow oven

,crushed and sieved, and

kept in a tin . When soaked it absorbsmuch water— roughly 2 quarts to 1 lb . ofbiscuit meal

Butter, Margarine, Dripping, Lard, Oil,Coco-Butter

Butter is not used for cooking now, andmargarine is generally needed for table u se .

If margarine is used for cooking it shouldbe clarified before u se

,as the substance used

for binding the fats usually sets to the

bottom of the pan, to which many failuresin frying are du e . All skimmings fromstocks should be kept carefully

,and water

added , then boiled up and strained . Whencold, remove the fat , scrape the bottom ofsame, and clarify . This fat is the best of allfor u se in the kitchen .

SUNDR IES 237

mu'

stard powder with corn flour, using halfas much flour as mustard, and mix with coldvinegar to a paste . Pour over the boilingvinegar like a custard, stir, and then pourover the vegetables . Seal up , and keep for aweek before using .

To Use Cabbage and Cau liflower Stalksas Pickles

The tender parts of cabbage and cauliflower stalks, when skinned, cut in neatpieces, and placed in salt for 24 hours withother vegetables, are useful to add to pickles .

Celery Flavouring

The outside of celery should be washed andskinned, dried in the oven, pulverised andmixed with salt to make celery salt . The

green tops can be dried in the oven and thenreserved for flavouring when celery is notavailable .

Cheese Rind

Thoroughly remove the canvas and scrapethé rind clean, then chop or grate . Use forrarebit, gratin dishes, etc . This hard, drycheese is better for cooking than soft cheese .


To Soak a Dried Egg for Qu ick Use

Cover the dried egg with tepid water, putin a warm place, and stir frequently until theegg 1s dissolved . Pass through a muslinbefore using . It is much better, however, tosoak the egg overnight .

To Save Fat in Sauces

When fat is not available for makingsauces, the best method for thickening is tomake a batter with flour, corn flour

,arrow

, root or potato flour, and cold water, and runthis into the boiling liquid, then allow itto come just to the boil . On the first Signof boiling withdraw it from the fire .

To Toughen a Casserole

B oil in water, rub the outside'

with anonion, and then fill-with water and place onthe fire to boil .The best method of strengthening an

earthenware casserole (red pottery ) is tobrush it over with oil and bake it in the

oven . This will harden it against suddenair currents . The older they are the tougherthey become.

SUNDRIES 239

Stoving and Sweating

The words stoving and “ sweating are

used here to indicate cooking slowly overgentle heat , so that the meat , fish or vegetable is allowed to throw out the moistureit contains and then the food cooks in itsown juice . Thus all the properties of thefood are preserved and a much better flavouris obtained .

To Save Fuel

A haybox or fireless cooker should be used .

Food can also be cooked in covered tins or jarsplaced in a pot and surrounded with boilingwater . Several tins may be placed in one

ves sel, and thus a whole dinner can be

cooked on one gas ring or electric plate .

When cooking by gas the cook mustexercise her intelligence and not u se the

oven for one dish . If the oven is needed,arrange to cook all other dishes in it . A

little thought will Show that there are

numerous methods of saving coal,wood

,

gas, electricity and oil .

SUNDR IES 241

Fish

Place the fillets of fish in a greased dish ,

season lightly, add a few drops of lemonjuice and a little butter on each fillet

,and

poach very carefully without adding any

Grilled Fish

Season the fillets of fish , pass throughflour

,shake well and baste with oil, then

grill . The grill should be very hot and clean,

otherwise the fish sticks or the fillet may beplaced in a frying-pan with a little clarifiedfat or oil and very slowly fried, then drained .

This is equal to grilling, and much easier .

Fish Pudding

Materials — 1 fillet of whiting, gill ofwhite sauce (see p . 1 tablespoonful ofcream, the white of an egg .

Method.

— Pound the whiting,add the

white sauce, season with salt and passthr ough a sieve, adding the cream and thewhite of egg loosely whipped . Put in abuttered mould and place this in boilingwater reaching to within three-quarter the

height of the mould, and poach very carefully . Turn out and serve with the followingsauce


Materials .—A few drops of lemon juice

,

1 tablespoonful of cream .

Method.— B oil the bones of the whiting

with a little water and lemon juice . Whendone (about 10minutes ), strain with pressureand reduce the liquid till it forms a jelly .

Add the cream, season if necessary, and pourover the pudding .

Poached Fillets of Chicken

Lift the fillets, remove the sinews ofthe flesh, place in a greased saucepan,season very lightly with sa lt, place the

fillets in it and cover with greased paper .

Let sweat very slowly for 5 minuteseach side . Or season with salt , brush overwith beaten egg and pass through breadcrumbs, flatten, then fry in oil to a goldencolour (10 minutes ) . Drain before serving .

Quenelles

Pound the fillet of chicken with salt in amortar, pass through sieve, place in ice ina basin, and work in twice the amount ofcream , a little at a time ; each time makesure that the mixture is quite smoothbefore adding the next Spoonful . Shape

SUNDRIES 243

with the spoon, or in a greased quenellemould, and poach (do not boil) for 12 to15 minutes .

Creams

After the fillet has been poached, pound ina mortar, add the liquid and, if necessary,a little reduced chicken jelly . Mix withan equal quantity of loosely whipped creamand place in a glass dish or in a mould to set .

Souffle

1 . Prepare as for quenelles . Add half ofa loosely whipped white of egg and poachas a pudding very slowly .

2 . Pound a cooked fillet, add 5 gill ofwhite sauce or cream, 1 yolk of egg and awhipped white . Mix lightly . Place in abuttered soufflé dish and bake in the oven,placed in a water bath .

Sweetbread

Soak in water and salt for 12 hours,drain and parboil for 10 minutes, then re

fresh and place under press to cool . Placewith chicken stock on the fire and poachtill tender . Serve with the following sauce

SUNDRIES 245

5 minutes . This leaves the white like ajelly .

Ox Cheek Broth

Take one Slice of ox cheek, wash well,place in a saucepan covered with waterand Simmer for 4 hours . Strain . Thissets to a jelly . Any cereal can be added,such as rice or barley, cooked thoroughlyand then strained .

Ox cheek stewed for hours until it fallsto shreds

,pounded in a mortar, and passed

through a sieve . The liquor added makes apure meat jelly .

Beef-Tea, Mutton-Tea Veal-Tea, Chicken

Tea,etc .

Half a pound of flesh without fat or gristle,shredded or pounded, mixed with 3 pintof water and a few grains of salt . Allowto stand for 1 hour, then place on the fire

and stir with a fork until milky . Strainthrough strainer and press all the juice out .

Allow to stand,remove all fat, season to

taste, and when serving, stir so as to u se the


sediment , which is the only food in the

tea .

POCKET LUNCHES

Pies, cutlets , rissoles, pasties, sandwiches,brissoles, sausages, baked beans, nuts , bunsand cake are suitable for pocket lunches .

Baked Beans

Soak and steam the beans , then lightlygrease with oil

,and bake in the oven until

crisp . Sprinkle with salt . Leave untilcold they will then eat crisp like nuts .

Picnic Roll

Make a 1g oz . round of bread dough, layin the centre a mixture of any meat or fishpreparation, gather the edges together andshape into a ball . Turn over on to a bakingsheet , allow the dough to rise, then bake ina hot even, like a roll or bun, or u se pastryinstead of bread dough .

Potted Rice and Meat for Sandwiches

Materials — 4 oz . meat,4 oz . rice, a little

stock,salt to taste

,pepper and a pinch of

spice, 2 oz . fat .

SUNDRIES 247

Method.

—B oil the meat and rice in alittle stock, season with salt , pepper anda pinch of Spice . Pass through a mincerseveral times until thoroughly fine, thenadd the fat , pass thr ough a sieve and u se

for sandwiches .

Cheese, Tomato and Nut Sandwiches

Materials — 1 oz . nut butter or other fat ,2 oz . grated cheese, 2 oz . grated nuts , lb .

tomatoes, a little pepper .

Method.

— Cu t the tomatoes in four andcook till tender, then pass through a sieve .

Next stir over a fire till thick ,let cool , and

mix with the other ingredients . Season byadding a little paprika pepper

,and make

sandwiches with the mixture . This mixturealso makes a very nice little savoury .

I ND E !

APPLE Charlotte, 197. Brown vegetab le sauce or

suet pudd ing, 187. gravy,2 2 .

Apricot and carrot jam,2 28. Buck rarebit, 2 10 .

Artichoke cake,I 54. Bul ly beef stew

, 98.

fritters, I 54. Butter, 235.

Artichokes, I 53.

Barley, 120 .

broth, 40 .

Batter, frying (WIthout egg) ,234.

Beans,baked, 246.

Haricot,I I9, 12 5, 126

,

I 59.

Beef (bully), stew, 98.

tea, 245.

Beetroot Jam,2 27.

stewed,I 58.

Bercy sauce, 45.

B i scuit mea l,235.

Bone stock, I 7.

Bou i ll i,245.

Bread dough galette, 187.

JeHy, 189.

maize and potato, 2 23.

panada,235.

pea, 2 20

potato, 2 20 .

sauce, 42 .

( imitation), 42 .

the use of stale,234.

Bream (baked) , with devi lledmock butter, 75.

golden , 73.

(roast), WIth tomato sauce,

74.

Cabbage,161 .

and onion soup,27.

and potato soup,29.

creamed,161 .

etc . , stalks for pickl ing, 237.

stew and l iver dumpl ings,

104.

(stoved), and rice,131 .

(stuffed), 159.

Caramel pudd ing,184.

Carbohydrates, 6.

Carrot t0ps, I 57.

Carrots, I 55.

Casserole, to toughen a, 238.

Caul iflower,154.

au gratin,I 55.

Celery, I 50 .

flavouring, 237.

soup, 32 .

Cereals, I3.

method of cooking,1 15.

Chasseur sauce, 44.

Cheese, 1 1 .

rind,237.

tomato and nut sandwiches,

247.

Chicken,poached fi llets of

,

242 .

tea, 245.

Chri stmas pudding, war, 200 .

250 INDE !

C lear (vegetab le) soup, 2 2Coating batter, to make, 233.

Cobbler’s pie, 95.

Coco-butter, 235.

to c larify , 236.

Corn-flour cheese mixturefor rareb it, 124.

Crab,creamed, 78.

Cucumber and egg, 207.

Curried pulse, 134.

Curry sauce, 41 .

Custard sauce, 46.

Devi l sauce, 45.

Dripping,235.

Drop scones, 2 2 2 .

Dutch herrIng salad, 69.

Eegl’soup, 36.

Eels with mock cream sauce,E fi 76.

(Rus sian style) , 77.

Egg aurora,206.

b011ed, 245.

cress and haricot beansalad

,167.

how to poach an, 2 1 I .turnovers, 205.

Eggs, I O .

dried, 205, 238.

(poached) , jardiniere, 205.

— w£i3

th peas purée baked,20

poulette, 209.

( scrambled) , with breadsauce, 209.

Farinaceous food, 244.

Farmers’soup, 25.

Fat, clarified, I 4.

foods, 7.

etc .

,from bones, 233.

Fats , 6, 234.

F lsh, 9.

(baked), 58.

baked fillet of( in batter) , 60 .

F i sh cakes (baked), 57.

cream soup, 39.

grilled, 241 .

in batter, 83.

methods of cooking, 51 .

mock turtle soup, 37.

(pan) , 58.

Pleapudding, 241 .

sauce, 46.

sausages, 56.

5°“P1 35(mock bouillabalsse) , 36.

steamed, 59.

stock,20 .

stuffings, 56.

Frying batter without egg,234.

Fuel, to save, 239.

Gelatine, etc . , from bones, 233.

Ginger cake, 2 16.

—nuts,2 16.

Golden bream, 73.

Gravy (vegetable), 22 .

Grey mullet, 63.

Ground rice and coco -nut

pudding, 184.

Gurnet (filleted) , and ricePortugaise, 71 .

Hal ibut Portugaise, 62 .

Haricot beans, 1 19.

and rice b i scuits, 2 24.

and rice pastry, 182 .

bean pie, 126.

stew, 125.

paste, 181 .

stew, 159.

Herring fillets with vegetables ,70 .

o l ives (baked), 67.

ragout, 65.

with rice, 66.

paupiettes of, and tomato

sauce, 68.

INDE !

Herring salad (Dutch) , 69.

Herrings (filleted) , and rice,64.

(soused), 65, 68.

Hot potato cake, 2 18.

Imitation bread sauce, 42 .

Inval id dishes, 240—245.

Ital ian sauce, 44.

Jacket potatoes , 164.

Kipper salad, 79.

Lard,235.

Leek and potato soup, 34.

Leeks (stoved) , 151 .

Lenti l stew, 126.

Lenti ls and rice bal ls, 133.

creamed, 133.

(red) , 1 19.

L iver dumplings and cabbagestew

,104.

(fried) , and onions withrice or polenta, 103.

Lobster (creamed) , 78.

Lyonnai se sauce, 43.

Macaroni croquettes and peas,166.

(home-made) , 134.

how to cook,135.

with tomatoes, 138.

Mackerel and rice, 61 .

(soused) , 65.

Maize and apple pudding(baked) , 198.

and cheese ri ssoles,124.

and cheese savoury, 125.

and egg savoury,2 10 .

and marmalade Charlotte,194 .

and potato bread, 2 23.

and potato cakes,2 19.

batter pudd ing , 185.

crumbs, 231 .

jam roll,189.

251

Maize pancakes, 188.

— paste,182 .

roll,savoury, 109.

sandwich cake, 2 17.

(savoury) , and vegetablepudd ing

,137.

woodcock,2 10 .

Margarine,235.

Marmalade, 2 29.

Marrow au gratin, 149.

(baked), and egg , 207.

(baked stuffed) , 148.

soup, 31 .

( stuffed) , 102 .

(vegetable) , 149.

(vegetable), and - cerealsalad, 167.

Mayonna ise sauce withouteggs, °

47.

W ithout 011, 48.

Meat, 10 .

and maize cutlet, 100 .

and potato flan, 96.

gravy (stoved) , 23.

loaves and stewed beetroog 105.

methods of cooking, 87.

roll s or ol ives With peas,107.

salad, 109.

Melted butter sauce, 46.

Mince meat, 199.

Minerals,6, 7.

Minestroni,28.

Mixed salad,168.

Mock duck and apple sauce,

108.

hi onkeys, 185.

Mornay sauce, 45.

Mul ligatawny soup, 30 .

Mussels and rice, 79.

Mutton and potato ragout, 104.

broth, 99.

stuffed breast of,with barley,

tea, 245

INDE !

Potted rice and meat for sandwiches, 246.

Prote id, 5.

Prote in foods, 6.

Puddings, 175.

Pul se (curried), 134.

food, method of cooking,1 17.

Pulses, 12 .

Puree, vegetab le, 29.

Purées, 9, 153.

Quenelles of chicken , 242 .

of rabb it, 93.

Rabb it and potato ragout, 104.

cutlets of, 93.

(fillets of) , W ith wh ite sauce ,

en casserole, 92 .

quenel les of, 93.

SOUP, 95stewed, 94.

Rarebit, 123.

Ravio li , 140 .

Red currant jelly ( imitation ) ,2 28.

Red lenti ls, 1 19.

Rhubarb and rice cakes,186.

R ice,120 .

(baked) , and lenti ls, 12 1 .

balls, 132 .

and lenti l s, 133.

savoury, 12 1 .

with meat or fish, 10 1 .

Ri sotto, 138.

Robert sauce, 45.

Sago jel ly, 195.

Salmon (baked), 80cakes, 82 .

(creamed) , 78.

flamande, 63.

how to use a tin of, 80 .

salad, 82 .

sandwiches, 83.

scal loped, 81 .

2O3

Sals ify, 156.

and barley soup, 31 .

— Y0 1kshire pudd ing, 156.

Sauce without fat, 41, 238.

Saucesbercy

, 45bread, 42 .

curry, 41 .

custard, 46.

devi l , 45.

fish , 46.

imitation bread, 42 .

Italian, 44.

lyonnalse, 43.

mayonna i se, without eggs,47w1th0ut 0 11, 48.

melted butter, 46.

mornay, 45.

parsnlp (sweet), 47.

Robert, 45.

tomato , 43.

white, 41 .

Sausage, fresh meat, 91 .

rol ls, 91 .

Sausages,fish

, 56.

made with cooked meat,91 .

oatmeal,127, 128.

(vegetable), with pulse or

nuts, 1 2 2 .

Savoury maize and vegetab lepudding , 137.

rol l,109.

pota6

to and barley pudding,

I3rice with meat or fish

,

10 1 .

sp1ce, 232 .

Scarlet runners,158.

Scones, drop, 2 2 2 .

potato,22 2 .

Scrambled eggs with breadsauce, 209.

Semol ina cheese cakes, 193.

Sheep’s trotters, 106.

2 INDE !

Short paste, 183.

Sole (filleted), with cucumber,77.

Soupsbarley broth, 40 .

cabbage and onion, 27.

and potato, 29.

celery, 32 .

eel, 36.

farmers’, 25.

fish, 35.

cream, 39.

(mock boui llaba isse),36.

(mock turtle), 37.

leek and potato, 34.

marrow, 31 .

m inestroni, 28.

mulligatawny, 30 .

O’Connor, 32 .

onion , 26.

pea-

pod, 33°

0

pot-au-feu, made with ox

cheek,25.

rabbit, 95.

sals ify and barley, 31.vegetable purée, 29.

Soups,8, 17.

Spiced sauce, 232 .

Spinach, creamed, 157.

Sprouts , 151 .

Starch foods, 7.

Steaming, 240 .

Stock, 8.

(bone) , 17.

(fish), 20 .

meat and rice croquettes,1 10 .

(vegetable), 20 .

Stovmg ,”239.

Suet crust, 183.

Sugar in vegetab les, 7.

Sweating,” Yorkshire pudding with fru it,Sweetbread, 243. 186.

Sweetbread, fried, 244.

Sweets, 175.

Tapioca and potato paste, 179.

T imbale filling,126.

of potatoes, 164.

Timbales,126.

Tomato sauce, 43.

Tripe, 244.

Turnip tops, 157.

Turnips, 155.

Turn overs, 2 19.

Veal and potato ragout, 104.

tea, 245.

Vegetable and haricot beanpie, 171 .

cutlets,169.

with cereal s, 171 .

with egg , 170 .

with nuts, 171 .

with pulse, 170 .

gravy,2 2 .

marrow, 149.

and cereal salad, 167.

pie, 130 .

purée, 29.

sauce or gravy (brown), 2 2 .

sausages with pulse andnuts , 1 2 2 .

soup (clear), 22 .

stock, 20 .

Vegetables , conservat1ve

method of cooking, 145.

War Chri stmas pudding,200 .

Water in foods, 7.

White sauce, 41

Whiting au gratin, 61 .

(baked filleted) , with potatoes, 72 .

DA I LY MA I LWAR R EC I PES

MR S. C . S. PEEL

TH IS book is published in compliance with

the demand of Readers of the‘

Daz

’

ly M a il

for a Cookery Book compiled from Recipes

issued by the Food Bureau . The Recipes

are arranged to suit present conditions.

Readers requiring information should apply

through the Daily Mail Food Bureau .

C O NT ENT S

STOCKS AND SOUPS— SAUCES, SAL-

AD DRESSINGS,AND BATTERS— F ISH— EGGS— SOME DISHES WITHA LITTLE MEAT—MEATLESS DISHES— PUDD INGSAND PASTRY—HOME MADE CHEESE AND BUTTERSuBSTITUTEs— SOME WAR JAMS AND OTHERPRESERVES.

PR ICE,

THE LABOUR SAV ING

HOUSE

By MRS. c . S. PEEL

With numerous I llustrations

Second Edition . Crown 8vo, net

This book, by the author of “ War Ration Cookery,has come at the right moment, since the “ Servant

Problem ”becomes more acute. Mrs. Peel believes

that “ The greatest labour saving apparatus we possess

is the B rain,”and gives many examples to il lustrate the

point. A few most valuable chapters deal with the

uses of gas and electricity for saving labour and,

incidentally , expense.

Tat/er . Mrs . Peel talks some sound common sense

in her most interesting and instructive book.

”

Tz’

nzes . A practical guide l ike this, by a well-knownauthority on domestic economy, with its numerousful ly explained photographs, is sure to be helpful .

”

Lady . Mrs. Peel’s hints are plentiful and practical .”

Outlook.

“ This book, marked as it is by the

soundest common sense, I S ful l of invaluable suggestionsfor lessening the housem fe

’s labours .

”

T HE HAT S HO PA NO V EL

By MRS. c . S. PEEL

Crown 8vo, 6/ and net

P a llMa ll Gazette. Mrs . Peel i s to be s incerely con

gratulated on her vivid picture of one s ide of the world of

fashion and of the cost to those who serve it.”

Daily Citizen . Mrs . Peel has written a most del ightfulnovel . All her peop le l ive and have the air of real menand women . It i s an ideal book for a le isure hour.

”

g Standord. Out of an atmosphere of fur and feathers- themselves thing s of b lood—the author brings us to facethe fight of l ife and the last asylum of death .

”

Morning P ost.

“The book i s interesting and

written with first-hand knowledge .

”

Sunday Tz’

mes . The bright and the shady s ide of

feminine l ife in London are both exhib ited in ‘The Hat

Sh0p .

’ Mrs . Peel’s pages are closely observed and con

vmcmgly drawn ”

MRS. BARNET -ROBESA NO V E L

By MRS. C . S. PEEL

Crown 8v0, 6/

0ntlooie. With insight and tendernes s and courage,Mrs . Peel has wri tten one of the most charming and at the

same time most l iving of stories . It IS stamped W ith truthand i s very beautifu lly told .

”

Glooe. Mrs . Peel has handled a prol ific theme in a

ma sterly manner.

P a ll Ma ll Gazetto.—Mrs . Peel has written a worthy suc

cessor to ‘The Hat Shop,’more imag inative and showingsome deeper ins ight. ”

JOHN LANE,THE BODLEY HEAD

,V IGO ST .

,W . 1

A MR S. J O NE SA NO V EL

By MRS. C . S. PEEL

Crown 8v0 , 6/Da i ly Teleg mplz. The description of a Fashion Paper’s office,

and its J ewish administrati on, is vivid,real , and humorous.

book goes merri ly forward, the interest of the reader sustainedto the finish.

”

Sketclz. Oh, but Mrs Peel has the touch ! I t is impossibleto help lovmg Mrs . J ones. Scarcely a woman wrll read Dotwithout feeling her many a time as an expression of herself.To complete Mrs. Peel’s triumph she has the very nicest dash of

F ield. Warm sympathy and a large knowledge ca rried byclean ideals

,and Wl th the interest sustained from the first to the last

page, the story of Mrs . J ones is sure to give pleasure even to the

most fas tidious readers of novels . ”Westminster Gazette. A perfectly delightful book Mrs . !Peel

has most wisely and kindly kept the war out of it it is a rest,a comfort, and a distraction .

”

Ewnzng Norma— “ A sl ice of l ife. Human, tender .

The sense of humour is acute .

”

Tznzes .— “ To write about a girl of tod ay to whom nothing in

particular happens in such a manner that the reader must followher story attentively is as diflicult as to make a whiting appetisingbut this feat Mrs . C . S. Peel accomplishes in ‘A Mrs . J ones . ’By stander . An entertaimng p iece ofwork.

”

B zrmzng/zam Dazly Post.—“ The characterisation is uniformlyexcellent, exceedingly clever

,unusually sympathetic, easy and

confident style quietly humorous phrase power carefullyand wisely restrained in scenes of pathos . ”E nglzs/zwofnan Beautifully told . An excellent and wittystory-teller sounder in her psychology than is usually the case .

P a n da—Humour character charm The bookabounds in them all .

0nfloofe. Thi s intensely clever and human-hearted story.Fresh, genuine, so impeccably true to nature. A very fine novelindeed .

heroine. Making us ask ourselves how many such we mayhave known and misjudged .

”

FLOURLESS PUDDINGS

AND THE IR SAUCES

By A COUNTRY RECTOR’S WIFE

6d. net.

E ven ing Standard. I never would have imagined that in theworld there could be nearly 100 puddings constructed W ithout flour,but

‘A Country Rector’s Wife ’tells me in her book of recipes that

there are. Of course,some of them are apple puddings, which, at

the present price of fruit, are only food for mill ionaires , but she

gives a Splendid collection of cornflour, maize meal, and oatmealpuddings, With all sorts of odd and unexpected flavourings to them.

I think that supper in the country rectory must be a delightful meal,when maize and date pudding, oats pudding or lemon cornflour

figure on the menu .

PnoZislze/ s Circu lar . F lourless Puddings and their Sauces,’by A Country Rector’s Wife, tells its own tale by its title, and willprove its value by the eating of the puddings . Somebody some daywill pick up a copy at a second-hand bookstall and say, Ah I thatwas published in the third year of the GreatWar, when the Germanstried to starve Britain .

’

I ris/z Independent. About 100 recipes are given for makingflourless puddings and their sauces in this useful booklet. Puddingsbaked and boiled ; puddings to be served hot and cold ; all aredealt with, and directions given that can be easily followed by theaverage housewife.

”

Manch ster Gu ardian .—“ This book has a parficular appeal at

the present time. It suggests that the housewife— and certainly thefamily—may get a good deal of fun out of these experiments, withlimitations . ”

Nursing Times . Flourless Puddings is a very useful bookat the present time .

A TIMELY PUBLICATION

COW AND MILK BOOK

THE HON. MRS. LIONEL GUEST

Crown 8vo, Paper Boards, l /. net

Gmfinz'

o.—“ This is a strong practical plea for the proper

treatment of Cattle so as to ensure pure m i lk. A very handyl ittle book .

”

F ield The book W i ll be exceedingly useful to beginners,and may be recommended especial ly to the attention of the

new school of Lady Farmers .

Manolzesier Guardian. Mrs . Guest’s informing book .

Daily Graplzio. A timely publ ication. Indeed, Mrs .

Guest 15 so well informed in her subject that her book may

be commended to Farmers as wel l as to Dairy Amateurs .

”

Lancet. A thoroughly usefu l gu ide deal ing with the cow

in health and disease, the handl ing of milk, and the makingof butter and cheese .

”

A SELECTION P ROMTHE COUNTRY HANDBOOKS SER IES

I llustrated . Crown 8vo , cloth, 3/ net

THE STILL ROOM . ByMr. CHARLES ROUNDELL and HARRYROBERTS.

THE LITTLE FARM . By “ HOME COUNTIES .THE SMALL HOLD ING . By F . E . GREEN.

A SELECT ION FROMHANDBOOKSOF PRACT ICAL GARDENING SERIES

I llustrated . Crown 8vo, net

THE BOOK OF FRUIT BOTTLING. By EDITH BRADLEYand MAY CROOKE .

THE BOOK OF ASPARAGUS. With sections also on Celery,Salsify , Scorzonera , and Seakale. By CHARLES ILO'

I‘

T,F .R H .S. ,

Lecturer on Horticulture to the Cornwall County Council . TO

gether With a chapter on their cooking and preparation for thetab le by the Ed itor.

THE BOOK OF THE GRAPE . By H . W. WARD, F .R .H .Sfor 2 5 years Head Gardener at Longford Castle, author of MyGardener

THE BOOK OF THE APPLE . By H . H . THOMAS, Ass istantEditor of “ The Garden, la te of the Royal Gardens, W indsor .

Together With chapters by the Editor on the H istory and Cookingof the Apple , and the Preparation of Cider .

THE BOOK OF VEGETABLES. By G . WYTHES,Head Gardener to the Duke of Northumberland . W ith chaptersby the Editor on the H istory and Cookery of Vegetables .

THE BOOK OF THE STRAWBERRY. With chapters on

the Raspberry, B lackberry, Loganberry, W ineberry , and AlliedFrmts By EDW IN B ECKETT, F .R .H .S Head Gardener at

Aldenham House .

THE BOOK OF PEARS AND PLUMS. By the Rev. E .

BARTRUM, D .D .

THE BOOK OF THE HONEY BEE . By CHARLES HARRISON.

THE BOOK OF GARDEN PESTS AND PLANT D ISEASES.

By R . HOOPER PEARSON, Assistant-Editor of“ The Gardener’s

Chronicle.

" A concise account of the various insec t pests and

fungus diseases that infest garden plants , With full instructions forcombating them in the hght ofmodern knowledge.

J OHN LANE,THE EODLEY HEAD, V IGO ST . , W :

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