FOOD

Item 13

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1. Dancel (Jean-François) Préceptes fondés sur la chimie organique pour diminuer l'embonpoint sans altérer la santé. 2me édition augmentée des faits de guerison. Paris: Chez l’Auteur... et chez Leblanc, 1850, pp. 213 (including half-title), [1], small 8vo, contemporary green roan backed marbled boards, spine lettered in gilt direct, a little rubbed at extremities, good £350 Second, enlarged, edition, same year as the first, and some 50 pages longer. There was a third edition in 1854, and a fourth in 1867. Although ‘embonpoint’ has some pleasant overtones, in physiology it is the warning sign of obesity. Of the 7 chapters, 1 deals with food (including an excerpt from Brillat-Savarin on chocolate), another with drinks (including an excerpt from Brillat-Savarin on beer, the most fattening drink of all), notwithstanding which the work does not appear in gastronomic bibliographies. The last chapter is on tobacco. Very scarce. 3. (Douglas.) BEY (Pilaff, i.e. Norman Douglas and Giuseppe Orioli) Venus in the Kitchen or, Love's Cookery Book. Edited by Norman Douglas. Introduction by Graham Greene. Heinemann, 1952, FIRST EDITION,frontispiece reproducing a painting by D.H. Lawrence, photographic plate and a full-page facsimile of a note in Douglas's hand (the latter with faint spots to border), title-page and 13 full-page chapter decorations by Bruce Roberts, pp. xiii, 192, 8vo, original pink cloth with blind-stamped Venus device to upper board, backstrip lettered in gilt, top edge blue slightly faded, Blackwell’s ticket at foot of front pastedown, the free endpapers with faint strip of browning to inner margin, dustjacket with a Roberts design, slightly nicked and chipped to extremities with a couple of faint spots at head of flaps, very good £80 This collection of supposed aphrodisiacs is considered by Cecil Woolf and others to be primarily the work of Douglas's friend G. Orioli, though Graham Greene’s 4pp. Introduction discusses Douglas exclusively. 2. (Douglas.) BEY (Pilaff, i.e. Norman Douglas and Giuseppe Orioli) La Table de Venus ou, Le Livre de cuisine de l’amour [Venus in the Kitchen.] Introduction de Graham Greene. Paris: Éditions Denoël, 1954, FIRST FRENCH EDITION, 1,309/2,000 COPIES, printed on Bouffant Gazelle paper, faint spot to top corner of prelims, pp. 227, [3], crown 8vo, original wrappers, stiff paper dustjacket with some waterstaining to borders, edges untrimmed with a few faint spots, contemporary ownership inscription to flyleaf, the latter faintly spotted, good £40 Preceded by the English edition two years earlier, though perhaps an example of such things sounding rather better in French. 4. Frazer (Mrs.) The Practice of Cookery, Pastry, and Confectionary; in three parts... An appendix containing receipts for making wines, vingears, ketchups, syrups, cordials, possets, &c. dinner and supper dishes; articles in season; directions for carving, &c. Also new plates, shewing the manner of trussing poultry, and placing dishes on a table. And to which is now added, an index to the whole, arranged alphabetically. The fourth edition, with large Additions and Improvements. Edinburgh: Printed for Peter Hill by J. Ruthven and Sons, 1804, with 2 engraved plates, tiny piece of worming in the fore-margins of the plates, pp. [iv], 304, 12mo, contemporary sheep, gilt ruled compartments on rounded spine, red lettering piece, very good, ownership inscription on fly-leaf of Agnes Barker, Edinburgh, June 1806 £650 A nice copy of the scarce fourth edition of a work first published in 1791 (also in Dublin) and lasting till a 7th edition in 1820. The first edition announces it as being ‘By Mrs Frazer, Sole Teacher of these Arts in Edinburgh, Several years Colleague, and afterwards Successor to Mrs M'iver deceased.’ If Mrs. Frazer were indeed ‘the Sole Teacher’ in the capital, it is surprising that her Christian name has not come down to us. Wellcome, Leeds and BL only in COPAC, but there is a copy in NLS. The printer’s name appears again at the colophon, within an attractive ribbon banner: conveniently James Ruthven was a grocer as well as a printer.

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5. Freedman (Barnett) Real Farmhouse Cheese. [Milk Marketing Board,] [1949,] FIRST EDITION, with 8 lithographs by Barnett Freedman printed in black and green or yellow, pp. 16, folio, original sewn linen wrappers over card, with a design overall in grey, green and yellow by Barnett Freedman, incorporating the lettering and two further designs on the flaps, a trifle rubbed to extremities, near fine £800 A presentation copy, inscribed by the author/illustrator, ‘for Nan & Dave, with love from Barnett’. An uncommon book, all the more so inscribed. Commissioned in 1939 and written and illustrated by Barnett Freedman, it was finally published in 1949 by the Milk Marketing Board. It portrays cheese production from the cow to the dining table. Altogether delightful. 6. Gloag (John) Manna. Cassell, 1940, FIRST EDITION, some very faint spotting, pp. [viii], 280, crown 8vo, original purple cloth, backstrip lettered in yellow, edges faintly spotted, dustjacket with sunned backstrip panel, very good £300 A novel whose climax predicts the war that had begun by the time it was published, Gloag’s quasi-journalistic account of a fungus that appeases hunger has a strikingly contemporary premise regarding artificial food production and its potential impact on human society. 7. [Jekyll (Agnes, Compiler)] [Spine title:] Ne Oublie. [Edited by Barbara Freyberg and Pamela McKenna.] [Printed for private distribution at Billing & Sons, Guildford and Esher,] [n.d., but 1937,] FIRST EDITION, frontispiece photograph with further photographic plate at rear, pp. xiii, 328, 8vo, original patterned boards backed with cream cloth, the backstrip lettered in blue and browned with a few spots, a few faint spots to boards, a little wear at corners, edges roughtrimmed, good £200 Inscribed on the flyleaf by Jekyll’s daughter, Barbara Freyberg: ‘For Olga, With Barbara’s love’. Freyberg, along with her sister Pamela McKenna, edited and published this volume as a tribute to their mother in the year of her death. A laid in ALs from the same, dated ‘Christmastime 1937’ and this time addressed to ‘Darling Oggie’, presents the book, explaining that they have put it together ‘as a little remembrance of Mother for her friends’ and clarifying its origin in Jekyll’s own manuscript commonplace book - considering that ‘her mixture & her choice in this book are very characteristic of her’. The recipient is uncertain, but one might suggest the author Olga Hartley - a contemporary food-writer possessed of the stated ‘affection for & appreciation of’ the compiler. The book contains an absorbing selection of mottoes and longer pieces from diverse sources, including culinary and botanical; there is a concentration of citations pertaining to the Great War, but the selections continue until the end of her life (the year of publication). ELIZABETH DAVID’S COPY

8. Leyel (Mrs. C.F. [i.e. Hilda W.W.]) Green Salads and Fruit Salads, Including Salad Dressings and Recipes for Salad Vinegars [The Lure of Cookery series.] George Routledge, n.d. [but circa 1925,] FIRST EDITION, pp. vii, 88, foolscap 8vo, original green boards, backstrip and upper board lettered in dark blue, the latter with border stamped in same, some very slight discolouration to extremities and bottom corners very gently knocked, the oval book-label of Elizabeth David to front pastedown, dustjacket a little chipped and nicked, very good £750 A very pleasing association copy, with the bookplate of Elizabeth David, a laid-in typed note to her (signed ‘Janet’, undated, and largely concerning laundry, though also presenting a book – perhaps the present volume, which ‘Lesley [probably O’Malley] says you might have already’) and a sticky note in David’s hand, marking the Jamaica Salad recipe ‘a possibility’. Hilda Leyel was a key formative influence on David – her ‘Gentle Art of Cookery’ was one of the first cookbooks that the latter writer owned, a gift from her mother when young. The name of the series over which Leyel presided for this publisher, ‘The Lure of Cookery’, perhaps indicates its intention to beguile – and David

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later considered that ‘Mrs Leyel’s greatest asset was her ability to appeal to the imagination of the young’, which she did through a style of romantic simplicity, short in instruction but rich in knowledge, versed in tradition but alert to the domestic fashions of modernity, catering to native tastes but with the sense that such a palette should include influences from around the globe. In her Introduction to ‘Spices, Salt and Aromatics in the English Kitchen’ (1970), David discusses Leyel’s influence at length, and describes herself re-reading many of her books, the present volume amongst them, listing as ‘the most attractive’ of ‘Mrs Leyel’s positive virtues [...] her love of fruit, vegetables and salad’ and her elevation of them to centre-stage. This work begins with reference to John Evelyn, proceeding to his list of English salad herbs, a nod to Leyel’s occupation as a herbalist: she was responsible in large part for reviving in the twentieth-century the tradition of which Culpeper was the apogee. In 1927, she founded the Society of Herbalists and opened her shop, Culpeper House, in Baker Street – and David, in her tribute, acknowledged that Leyel’s eminence in this field surpassed her reputation as a cookery writer, even whilst it was in the latter respect that she had felt her influence, with that ‘small classic’ of ‘The Gentle Art of Cookery’ and the small host of others to which this book on salads belongs. KATHLEEN HALE DUSTJACKETS

9. Leyel (Mrs. C.F. [i.e. Hilda W.W.]) Meals on a Tray. [The Lure of Cookery series.] George Routledge, n.d. [but 1927,] FIRST EDITION, light foxing to prelims, recurrent at foot of rear, pp. viii, 83, foolscap 8vo, original khaki boards, backstrip and upper board lettered in black, the latter with border stamped in same, bottom corners gently knocked, spine slightly cocked, a few tiny spots to edges, no flyleaf (apparently issued thus), dustjacket with a design by Kathleen Hale to front, lightly chipped to extremities, nicked at ends of darkened backstrip panel with some internal tape repair along folds of same, light overall soiling, good £375 Hilda Leyel was a cookery author and herbalist, responsible in large part for reviving in the twentieth-century the tradition of which Culpeper was the apogee. In the year of this book, her star was on the rise - she had founded the Society of Herbalists and opened her shop, Culpeper House, in Baker Street. Although it is in the field of herbalism that her legacy largely resides, as a cookery writer she was an acknowledged influence on Elizabeth David, among others, and the present book is a good example of her style - unfussy and unreserved, with an equal knowledge of traditions and the contemporary domestic environment. The present book seems to speak more to the latter than some of her other contributions to this series: her Preface begins, ‘The impromptu meal on a tray has its own charm, and as domestic difficulties increase it is likely to be adopted during periods of stress, especially in small households’; Leyel briefly pines after the delights of Tuscany, Naples, Provence, before returning to the insistence that ‘there is poetry in English food too’. She enumerates the store-cupboard essentials needed, and insists that the presentation of the tray itself will have a major bearing on the appeal of the food. The ‘Lure of Cookery’ series was aimed at the inexperienced, young housewife - as the cover image by Kathleen Hale depicts - offering, to use David’s word for Leyel’s essence, ‘stimulus’ rather than a rote manual. A large part of Kathleen Hale’s early career consisted of dustjacket-design work, including other titles in this series - here her design captures the ideal of modern elegance to which the author’s recipes aspire.

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10. Leyel (Mrs. C.F. [i.e. Hilda W.W.]) Puddings. Baked, Boiled, Fried, Steamed, and Iced [The Lure of Cookery series.] George Routledge, n.d. [but 1927,] FIRST EDITION, some light foxing, pp. vii, 85, foolscap 8vo, original green boards, the backstrip and upper board lettered in blue, the latter with a border stamped in same, some very light handling, the edges and endpapers lightly spotted, the dustjacket by Kathleen Hale in excellent shape, the head of backstrip panel a little chipped, corners likewise, with a handful of faint spots overall, very good £400 For details on this author and her influence, see above. A beautiful example of Kathleen Hale’s early dustjacket-design work. 11. Maret (Russell) Hungry Bibliophiles. An Experiment in Utilitarian Bookmaking [Facsimile edition.] New York: Russell Maret, 2017, ONE OF 250 COPIES, printed on Mohawk Superfine paper, facsimile of the original edition which used two original typefaces designed by Russell Maret, here including the various manuscript additions (including illustrations) of the participants in the project, pp. 56, 4to, original wrappers, bookmark from same paper as the covers of the original edition, new £50 The experiment consisted of having the original contributors to the original recipe book (published in an edition of 75 copies) use, share, and explore the book - adding, defacing, and thereby enhancing, the original work as shown in this delightful facsimile. 12. Marie (Jean) Cuisine at Sea. [Paris:] Printed by the Imprimerie Transatlantique, [1948,] FIRST EDITION, 4 plates and decorations to the text by J. Auvigne printed in green and pink, a couple of leaves opened slightly roughly at head, pp. [29]m, crown 8vo, original cream wrappers, printed in black and red to front within a grey panel, the covers a little dusty, very good £70 The text of a lecture by the author, President of the French Line.

13. [Massialot (François)] Nouvelle instruction pour les confitures, les liqueurs et les fruits. Avec la maniere de bien ordonner un dessert... Suite du Cuisinier royal et bourgeois... Nouvelle Edition, revue, corigée, & beaucoup augmentée. Paris: Prudhomme, 1712, with 1 woodcut illustration in text, woodcut tailpieces, and a folding woodcut plate, 2 openings with mysterious rust stains (?from cookery implements), small burn hole in X4 touching a few letters, paperflaw in lower fore-margin on T2, some foxing, pp. [xx], 480, [24], 12mo, original calf (’Le prix de ce Livre est de trente-six sols, relié en veau’), spine gilt, rubbed, head and tail of spine slightly defective, split in lower half of upper joint, sound £700 First published in 1692, this is the fourth edition.

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14. Pasquale of Ferrara De morbis puerorum et mulierum... [with:] Universae praxeos medicae. Institutiones. Mechanica exposita. Pars prima [-III]. [Medical Lecture Notes, written by Vincent of Cremona]. Naples: 1797-98, manuscript in Latin, ink on paper, in a small, neat and just about legible hand, 2 parts in 1 vol., minor foxing, pp. [vi], [24], [1], [i], 44; [vi, blank], [i], 122, [1, Index], small 4to, contemporary vellum, sometime affected by damp with consequent tightening of the vellum, the upper board itself, invisibly but palpably slightly corrugated, a little soiled and stained, traces of ink calculations, spine defective at foot £1,500 An extensive series of lecture notes, covering a significant part of the curriculum on the eve of the Parthenopaean Republic, from lectures by Pasquale of Ferarra, and the transcription of them supervised by the lecturer himself. The first part is in 2 parts, the first on the diseases of children, the second on those of women. Each subject is introduced and defined, then subjected to Signs, Causes, Prognosis, and Cure. The Institutes proceed in the same way. The index at the end only gets as far as chapter V of the first part of the Institutes. The Institutes are in 3 pars: De Morbis regionis naturalis... vitalis... animalis. The first deals mainly with digestion, and has 2 chapters on food: De Alimentorum inappetentia, et chylosi læsa; De Appenetitu nimio, et depravato. A POTTERED HISTORY OF HEINZ

15. Potter (Stephen) The Magic Number. The Story of '57'. With Illustrations by David Knight. Max Reinhardt, 1959, FIRST EDITION, 4 plates, pp. 182, crown 8vo, original red boards, backstrip lettered in gilt, faint spotting to top edge, dustjacket by Charles Mozley, just a little toned at head of front panel, armorial bookplate of Edward F. Lydall to front pastedown, very good £150 With a lengthy inscription by the author to the flyleaf, presenting the book ‘To Edward, for being, so far as I know, the only private gentleman (if he will excuse this vast understatement) not only to buy, but actually to read this, the most difficulty work of my long and distinguished career, Stephen’. The bookplate of the recipient, Edward Francis Lydall, earlier a prominent civil servant in India, is on the facing pastedown. The book relates the story of the Heinz food company, the economic and social factors behind its rise and the history of the individuals behind its success. HER FIRST PUBLISHED WORK

16. (Richardson.) CARTON (Paul, Dr.) Consumption Doomed. A Lecture on the Cure of Tuberculosis by Vegetarianism delivered to the French Vegetarian Society. Translated from the French by D. M. Richardson. C.W. Daniel, 1913, FIRST ENGLISH EDITION, pp. 94, 16 [ads], foolscap 8vo, original green cloth lettered in gilt to backstrip and upper board, a couple of tiny spots to edges and some very minor rubbing to extremities, endpapers browned, very good £200 The first published work of novelist Dorothy Richardson, here undertaking translation duties for publisher C.W. Daniel. 17. Samson (William) Rational Physic; or, the Art of Healing: Founded and explained on Principles of Reason and Experience. To which is added, A Family Dispensatory... Dublin: Printed for J. Exshaw, and Tho. Ewing, 1765, pp. vi, 114, 12mo, [bound with:] Godfrey (Boyle) A Treasure of Useful Discoveries. Dublin: Printed and Sold by James Hunter, 1761, 2 parts in 1 vol., pp. 144 (ESTC N63306, RCP and LoC only). [and:] Theobald (John) Every Man his own Physician... Dublin: Printed for Peter Wilson, 1764, pp. ix (including half-title), [10-] 58, 2 leaves torn at the upper outer corner, loss of page numeral on one of them (ESTC T116774, BL & NYAM only). [and:] James (Robert) A Dissertation on Fevers... The Fifth Edition. Printed for J. Newberry, 1761, title-page soiled, pp. 88 (Roscoe A256 (5); ESTC T7630, 5 copies).

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[and:] Cornaro (Luigi) Sure and Certain Methods of attaining a long and healthful life... made English by W. Jones, A.B. The third edition. To which is prefix’d, Mr. Addison’s account and recommendation of this book. Spect. Vol. 3. N. 195. Dublin: Printed for Richard Gunne, 1740, a bit of damp-staining, pp. [xviii], 66 (ESTC T125928; cf. G-M 1592). contemporary sheep, somewhere between tree and catspaw, lacking lettering piece but lettering ‘Pamphlets’ readable in blind impression, headcap defective, small split at foot of spine, good £1,750 Rare first Dublin edition, same year as the London first edition, which is also a somewhat scarce book. Samson is described on the title as surgeon, of Sherborne, in Dorset. He was appointed town physician there in 1766, and was probably also Sherborne School’s physician. The first item of an interesting Sammelband of popular medicine, Dublin printed bar one. Included are many case-histories. Godfrey’s title continues Containing, remarks on divers aliment and eatables, where by to know which are not digested by our stomachs; and those unfit for our bodies are pointed out: also, an account of the nutriment of chyle divers food give into the blood; proper to be known by persons apt to be too corpulent or too thin, in order to prevent pain and diseases, and, in a great measure, sudden deaths: with a number of valuable discoveries, particularly, a method of destroying bugs in houses; and to prevent the ill practice of opening letters, or any sealed things. To which is added, by a student of health, physick for families, discovering a safe way, and ready means, whereby every one at sea or land may with God’s assistance be in a capacity of curing themselves, or their relations, in all distempers or extremities, without any the hazards, troubles, or dangers, over usual, in all other ways of physick.’ Third edition, first 1746, all Dublin. The scond part, Physick for Families, has its own title-page, but the pagination is continuous. Robert James is famous for his Medical Dictionary, 1743-45, for which Samuel Johnson wrote the dedication and some of the articles - which led the booksellers to commission his own Dictionary of the English Language. Theobald same year as London first (5 copies in ESTC): 7 London editions to 1770, 3 US editions, and one Welsh. The claim of the Cornaro to be the third edition is dubious, seeing as how there were 5 London editions before it.

18. (Solmentes Press.) Taxi Driver Curry - 1. Heathrow, 4.30 a.m., Terminal 4 to 3, April 2014. Decorah: Solmentes Press, 2015, 23/45 COPIES (from an edition of 50 copies), 10 woodcuts, pp. [19, rectos only], oblong 8vo, original pictorial cloth, backstrip lettered in white, edges untrimmed, endpapers with a stamped repeating leaf design in pink, green and gold, slipcase, fine £300 A transcript of a conversation. ‘The woodcuts are based on Indian Kolam, designs traditionally created outside homes to bring prosperity and ward off evil spirits’ (colophon). HASCHICH FUDGE

19. Toklas (Alice B.) The Alice B. Toklas Cook Book. Illustrations by Sir Francis Rose. Michael Joseph, 1954, FIRST ENGLISH EDITION, frontispiece, section-title vignettes and a few

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further illustrations to the text, all by Rose, pp. xii, 288, 8vo, original beige cloth, the backstrip lettered in gilt against a green ground, decorations by Rose stamped in same, the gilt a little dulled, a little wear around tail, waterstaining at foot of lower board with a couple of spots elsewhere, top edge green, a few small spots to other edges, endpaper designs by Rose printed in black and green, Janet Flanner’s ‘Letter from Paris’ concerning the book for the New Yorker laid in (a comparison with the dustjacket blurb permits us to ascribe the latter to the same), the Francis Rose dustjacket rather tatty and browned, separated along upper joint-fold and the front fla detached, good £75 The British edition is notable for the inclusion of the Haschich Fudge recipe on p. 259 - a contribution by Brion Gysin (here, Brian Gysen) - that had been hastily expurgated in its American counterpart; this minor aspect of notoriety aside, it is rather a charming cook-book, sprinkled with recollections of her life with Gertrude Stein. Its ‘Recipes from Friends’ section includes, as well as Gysin’s sport, contributions from Lord Berners, Carl Van Vechten, Dora Maar, Natalie Clifford Barney, Cecil Beaton, et al. Formerly the copy of Paris-based bibliophile John Baxter, his small pencil ownership inscription at the foot of a terminal blank.

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