Fog lights on VW Golf / Rabbit MkVIn-depth DIY installation guide

by geogob and nicogiPosted on rabbitownersclub.com

July 30, 2008

1 IntroductionThis is an in-depth procedure to install fog lights on a MkV Volkswagen Golf or Rabbit.

It covers the required material, tools and gives a step-by-step procedure.The first step is to identify the components in the car and to determine whether the car

has the necessary equipment to support fog lights. If not, an alternative solution using a relayis detailed. Both the standard installation and the installation with a relay are coveredin this document. The critical component in this case is the electrical system control moduleto which the fog lights are connected. There are two series: a "highline", which supports foglights, and a "midline" which doesn’t. The type of module can be identified using its modelnumber. Some features, like using fogs as DRL and cold bulb detection will not work withthe relay installation.

Note that the standard installation of the fog lights on a "highline" electrical system con-trol module requires recoding of the central electronics module using a VAG-COM (VCDS)interface. This can be done by yourself or at any good Volkswagen service point.

Disclaimer While it uses OEM parts, the following installation procedure was not designedby Volkswagen of Canada/Volkswagen of America. The author may not be held liable shouldany type of damage/malfunction occur to the vehicle due to the said installation. It is to beperformed at your own risks.

2 Electrical system controle module identificationThere are two ways to identify the type of electrical system control module module, also

called Central electronics module, both using its model number. The first is to directly checkthe module model number on the module itself. This is a good way to do it if you do not havea VAG-COM at hand. The same model number can be retrieved using a VAG-COM.

2.1 Accessing the electrical system control moduleTo access the electrical system control module you need to remove the driver’s side lower

foot-well panel. Follow the procedure described in section 4.1.4. This procedure requires aTorx T-20 screwdriver and should take only a few minutes. Once the panel is removed, youcan easily find the control module as most of the wiring converges to it. The control moduleis a box with about 8 connectors located to the left of the steering column. To help you locatethe module, check for the relay panel, shown on figure 1. This relay panel is located on themodule. On the identification plate, you should read the name "Bordnetzsteurgerät" and amodel number starting with 3C0, as seen on figure 2. Take note of this model number.

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Figure 1: Relay panel located on the electronic system control module. View from the cubbyhold opening.

Figure 2: Electronic system control module identification plate.

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2.2 Retrieving the electrical system using VAG-COMConnect the VAG-COM to the car and run an auto-scan (refer to the VAG-COM/VCDS

manual and documentation). At address 09, you should have the retrieved information andstatus for the "Central Electronic" Module. Note the HW part number. The auto-scan outputshould look like this:

Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 3C0-937-049-23-H.lblPart No SW: 3C0 937 049 S HW: 3C0 937 049 SComponent: Bordnetz-SG H46 1501Revision: 00H46000 Serial number: 00000005703151Coding: 118D0F214004150000140000001400000008730B5C0000Shop #: WSC 94810 999 00324

2.3 Identifying the electrical system control module typeUsing the chart from table 1 and your retrieved model number, you can identify the type

of electrical system control module that you have.

Table 1: Known electronic system control modules model numbers.Source: www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/download/label-files/3C-09.LBL

Model number Type VCDS redirect Model number Type VCDS redirect3C0-937-049-A Midline 3C0-937-049-23-M.LBL 3C0-937-049-AA Highline 3C0-937-049-23-H.LBL3C0-937-049-B Midline 3C0-937-049-23-M.LBL 3C0-937-049-AC Highline 3C0-937-049-23-H.LBL3C0-937-049-C Highline 3C0-937-049-23-H.LBL 3C0-937-049-AD Midline 3C0-937-049-23-M.LBL3C0-937-049-D Midline 3C0-937-049-23-M.LBL 3C0-937-049-AE Highline 3C0-937-049-23-H.LBL3C0-937-049-E Highline 3C0-937-049-23-H.LBL 3C0-937-049-AG Highline 3C0-937-049-23-H.LBL3C0-937-049-F Midline 3C0-937-049-23-M.LBL 3C0-937-049-AH Midline 3C0-937-049-30-M.LBL3C0-937-049-G Highline 3C0-937-049-23-H.LBL 3C0-937-049-AJ Highline 3C0-937-049-30-H.LBL3C0-937-049-H Midline 3C0-937-049-23-M.LBL 3C0-937-049-AK Midline 3C0-937-049-30-M.LBL3C0-937-049-J Highline 3C0-937-049-23-H.LBL 3C0-937-049-AL Highline 3C0-937-049-30-H.LBL3C0-937-049-L Highline 3C0-937-049-23-H.LBL3C0-937-049-P Midline 3C0-937-049-23-M.LBL3C0-937-049-Q Highline 3C0-937-049-23-H.LBL3C0-937-049-S Highline 3C0-937-049-23-H.LBL

2.4 ConclusionNow that you have the type of electrical system control module of your car, you can choose

which installation procedure is required for you. If you have a "highline" module, you canproceed with the standard installation. If you have a "midline" module, which does notsupport fog lights, you can proceed with the installation using a relay. The latter requiresa bit more hardware and more experience with connectors and wiring. If you do not feelcomfortable enough with this, you may want to seek help from someone with experience inthis field.

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3 Material, parts and toolsThis section describes the tools, parts and materials required for the installation of fog

lights on your MkV Rabbit or Golf.

3.1 Requirements for standard installation (highline module)3.1.1. Tools

• Trim removal tool (or a small flat screwdriver)• Small precision flat screwdriver• Torx T-20 screwdriver• Phillips No. 2 screwdriver• Wire pulling tool (or semi-rigid metal wire)• Metric socket set with ratchet and extension

3.1.2. Parts• Fog lights (L22 and L23, H11 12V 55W bulbs)

– Fog lamp projector with bulb, H11 Left - 1N0 270 595 011– Fog lamp projector with bulb, H11 Right - 1N0 270 595 021

• Wiring harness1

– 1x Kufatec Golf 5 fog lights harness for H11 - part number 35692 ("KabelsatzNebelscheinwerfer Golf 5").

Or, for "build-yourself":

– 2x Two-Pin Plug for H11 bulbs - 3D0 941 165 A– 2x Repair Wires for Two-Pin Plug - 000 979 244

• Front grills with openings for fog lights

– Left side - 1K0 853 666 C– Right side - 1K0 853 665 C

• Compatible E1 light switch (see note below for switch selection)• Light switch trigger wire - 000 979 009

Light switch selection notes Various E1 light switch can be used. The right type maydepend on the options already installed on your car. One important thing to consider is if thecar is equiped with auto lights or not. Standard euro switch without auto lights is the 1K041 431 AJ. Do some research to make sure you select the right switch for your car.

1Many online stores like OEMPL.US sell ready to use harness kits. The list given is for the OEM partsused to make this harness if you’d like to build it yourself or replace a damaged part. Please crosscheckrequired parts and part numbers with a VW part specialist. Getting a Kufatec harness from OEMPL.US orKufatec directly is the recommended option.

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(a) (b)

Figure 3: BOSCH 0-332-019-150 12V 30A horn SPST relay.

3.1.3. MaterialsNo additional material is required for this installation.

3.2 Requirements for relay installation (midline module)3.2.1. Tools

The tools required for this installation are the same as for the standard installation, plusthe following:

• Wire stripper• Wire cutter• Connector crimping tool

In some cases, a soldering iron may also be needed.3.2.2. Parts

The parts required are the same as the standard installation. In addition, you will need acompatible relay. The relay must be a single-pole-single-throw (SPST) relay with two outputpins. A BOSCH 0-332-019-150 12V 30A horn relay or equivalent should do fine (see figure 3).

3.2.3. MaterialsAdditional materials are required for the relay installation:

• One (1x) O-connector for 12 gauge wire• One (1x) O-connector for 18 gauge wire• One (1x) .250 terminal connector for 12 gauge wire• Four (4x) .250 terminal connectors for 18 gauge wire• Two feet (2’) of 18-gauge wire

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• Seven feet (7’) of 12-gauge wire

In addition, the following is recommended:

• One (1) in-line 30 A fuse box• One (1) 30 A automotive fuse• Shrinking tube for 12-gauge wire

The .250 terminals are to connect the various wires to the relay. The 12-gauge wire is used tosupply power to the fog lights through the relay and the 18-gauge wire to ground the relay.Details on the installation will be given further. The use of a fuse and fuse box is highlyrecommended for safety reasons.

4 InstallationIn this procedure, unless otherwise specified, all points are relevant to both the standard

and relay installation procedure.

4.1 Preparation4.1.1. Lower front grill removal

• Remove the driver-side (left) lower grill by pulling on it. It is held in place by frictiontabs.

• Remove the screw holding the passenger-side (right) lower grill, right in the middle, witha Phillips No. 2 screwdriver. Remove the grill by pulling on it. Keep the screw for later.

4.1.2. Battery removal• Remove the top battery cover.• Using a 10 mm socket, remove the negative terminal of the battery.• Using a 10 mm socket, remove the positive terminal of the battery. NOTE : use caution

when handling the battery and its terminals to avoid electrical shocks or acid spills.• Remove the front cover of the battery holder.• Using a 13 mm socket and extension, remove the mounting screw and securing bracket

holding the battery, located between the engine and the battery. Be careful not to dropeither the screw or the bracket in the engine compartment!

• Remove the battery by pulling it slightly forward and up.• Store the battery in a safe place, protecting the contacts from accidental shorts.

4.1.3. Battery holder removal• Remove the 3 mounting screws holding the battery holder in place.• Remove the cover of the fuse panel located right beside the battery location.• Disconnect the wire connected to the SA1 fuse (200A - purple). This is required to

remove the battery holder. (see green arrow, figure 4)• Remove it from the engine compartment.

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Figure 4: Engine compartment installation and wire routing. Green arrow: SA1 fuse wireconnector. Red arrow: Ground terminal.

(a) (b)

Figure 5: (a) Location of the screws holding the lower dash panel (2x) and (b) upper dashpanel (5x).

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4.1.4. Lower driver-side dash panel removal• Locate and remove the two screws holding the lower dash panel in place with the Torx

T-20 screwdriver. See figure 5 (a).• Gently pull down on the panel to open it, and then pull rear-wards to remove it.• You can either disconnect the CAN bus interface from the panel to remove it completely

or leave it there.

4.1.5. Light switch (E1) removal• Make sure the switch is in the OFF (0) position.• Push on the switch firmly, then turn to the ON position. The switch should remain in

its inward position and be free to be pulled out.• Take the switch out of its opening by pulling.• Remove the connector on the rear of the switch.

4.1.6. Upper driver-side dash panel removalNOTE: The removal of this panel may not be necessary, depending on available working

space. It is not too difficult to remove and makes working somewhat easier, especially withthe relay installation.

• Remove the driver-side instrument panel side cover (also covering the instrument clusterfuse panel).

• Lift steering column trim gap cover from the instrument panel by pulling it up andbackwards. Be careful not to scratch the instrument panel with the metal bracket onceit is removed. You do not need to remove it completely, only on the left side.

• If you have the "cubby" storage, you need to remove it now. Open it and push inwardson the side panels until you can open it all the way, and then pull backwards on it untilit comes out of its mounting.

• Remove the 5 mounting screws holding the panel in place with the Torx T-20 screwdriver.One is located on the top, near the steering column. One is located in the light switch(E1) opening. One is located around the center of the panel. Two are located at thebottom of the panel. See figure 5 (b).

• Gently remove the panel now only held in place by friction tabs on the right.• Once the panel is removed, disconnect the instrument panel light dimmer switch (E20).

We are now ready to start the fog lights installation.

4.2 Engine compartment installation4.2.1. Harness

• The fog lights wiring harness must first be routed from the driver-side grill opening tothe passenger-side grill opening. This can be done with a wire puller or any semi-rigidmetal wire.

• Next, route the harness up from the driver-side grill to the top of the engine compart-ment. Soon we will be routing the wires towards the firewall.

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4.2.2. Relay power wiring (relay installation only)With the relay installation, power does not come from the electronic system control mod-

ule, and it must come from an alternate source. The easiest way to do so is to connect a newpower wire directly to an existing fuse on the front of the fuse box, near the battery. This isthe main power distribution panel for the car. A safer installation would be to connect thenew power wire to a free connection on the distribution panel and install an in-line fuse boxwith a fuse of appropriate amperage (15 A should be enough, but don’t exceed 30 A).

• Mount an in-line fuse box on the end of about 7 feet (7’) of 12-gauge wire. Either usecrimped connectors or soldering.

• Attach an O-connector to the other end of the in-line fuse box.• Connect the O-connector to a free connection on the main power distribution panel

located on the front of the engine compartment fuse panel.• Route the new power supply wire down to the main wiring route going under the battery.

NOTE: Make sure any exposed wire is covered and protected using shrinking tube of theappropriate size. Avoid the use of electrical tape as the tape will wear down and fall underthe harsh conditions encountered in the engine compartment.

4.2.3. Fog lights groundingBefore routing the wires and harness, we’ll complete the installation in the engine com-

partment by connecting the ground wire of the fog lights harness to an appropriate groundterminal. The grounding wire should be terminated with an O-connector and separate fromthe left and right fog light power wires terminated with little metal pins.

• Locate an appropriate grounding terminal on the chassis. The one located between theengine compartment fuse box and driver-side headlight (on the left wheel well) is a goodchoice (Red arrow, figure 5).

• Secure the O-connector of the grounding wire of the fog lights harness to the groundingterminal.

4.2.4. Engine compartment routingThe next step is to route the fog lights harness and the power supply wire (for relay

installation only) towards the firewall.

• Open the wire holders securing the main wire groups.• Route the fog lights harness and the power supply wire (relay installation only) along

the main wire groups towards the firewall (Blue dashed line, figure 5).• Secure the wires in place by closing the wire holders.• At the same time, make sure the ground wire is secured and laid down tidily.

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4.2.5. Firewall pass-throughOnce the wires are routed all the way to the firewall, they must be routed through it to

reach the instrument cluster on the driver side. If you look closely at the firewall, you’ll noticethat there is a rubber seal where a large group of wires already goes through. On this seal youshould see nipple-like protrusions. The idea is to cut through the end of one of these nipplesand pass the wires trough. An easy way of doing this is to puncture the rubber seal whereyou want to pass the wiring and pass a long narrow tool through or a wire puller. Be carefulnot to make the hole too big as it may allow water and dirt (and hopefully not fire) to gointo the passenger compartment. The wires that need to go through the firewall are the twofog lights power wires of the fog light harness (These are usually attached together, gray andterminated with little metal pins) and the power supply wire for the relay (relay installationonly).

• Locate the firewall rubber seal for wires (along the main wire group).• Locate an appropriate place on the seal to pass the wires and puncture it.• Pass the wires though the hole towards the passenger compartment.

4.2.6. Fog lights installation• Make sure the ends of the harness are going through the rights openings at the lower

front grills.• Place the plastic expanding nuts into the appropriate holes in the lower front grills

openings.• Connect the fog lights to the harness and put them in place.• Secure the fog lights with the appropriate screws by screwing them into the plastic

expanding nuts.• You may install the new grills at this time or wait.

4.3 Dash installation and electronic integrationWe are now finished in the engine compartment. The next step is the integration of the

fog lights with the car’s electronic systems.4.3.1. Light switch (E1) integration

First, the light switch connector must be modified to support the front fog lights. A newtrigger wire must be connected to the switch connector. This wire sends the switch’s signal tothe electronic system control module (standard installation) or to the relay (relay installation).

• Remove the connector socket from its plastic housing using a precision screwdriver bylifting up the small retaining tab. Careful not to break it. The green arrow in figure 6(a) points to the tab.

• Place one end of the trigger wire into socket number 5 of the connector. The socketshould be numbered. Make sure you use the right one. Hint: the socket should alreadybe free (if not, contact a specialist for further help).

• Replace the connector socket in its plastic housing.

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(a) (b)

(c)

Figure 6: (a) E1 light switch connector. (b) Electical system control module (ESCM)"D" connector with pink locking tab. (c) ESCM "E" connector. The green arrows pointto the tabs to release the connector sockets form their plastic housing.

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4.3.2. ESCM/CECM connection (standard installation only)This procedure is to connect the fog lights and the trigger wire from the light switch to

the Electrical system control module. For relay installation, skip to next section (§4.3.3).

• Identify the two fog lights wires from the fog lights harness. They are either color codedor grey with text indentifying a pin and a plug. One should be either solid grey (ifcolor coded) or identified with the label "Plug D Pin 2". The other should be eithergrey/yellow color coded or identified with the label "Plug A Pin 4". The pinout maybe identified in german: "Pin 4 Stecker A" and "Pin 2 Stecker D".

• Locate the electrical system control module (J519) under the instrument panel on thedriver-side, left of the steering column. If you checked the model number on it, youshould already have found it. It is labelled "Bordnetzsteuergerät". See section 2.1 onpage 1 for more information.

• Unlatch the main locking mechanism for all connectors by sliding it sideways. It must beon the AUF (OPEN) position. This locking latch is a red plastic piece located betweenthe two series of connectors. This latch is visible on figure 2 with part of the word"AUF" and an arrow pointing the direction to unlock the connectors.

• Remove the A connector and D connectors from the Electrical system control module.• On these connectors, you should see a pink tab (see figure 6 (b)). This tab is the holding

mechanism for the wiring pins inserted into the connector. Gently open these tabs torelease the mechanism using a small precision screwdriver.

• Insert the wires in the appropriate pins. One goes in pin number 2 of connector D, theother in pin number 4 of connector A. Check on the connector for markings to makesure you have the right pins.

• Replace the pink tab on the connectors to lock the pins in place. If it doesn’t closeeasily, the pins are not well seated in the connectors. Not force should be required toput the pins in place or close the pink lock.

• Reinstall the A and D connectors in their appropriate slot.• Remove the E connector from the Electrical system control module.• Using a small precision screwdriver, remove the connector socket from the E connector

from its plastic mounting in a similar way that was required for the light switch (E1).(see figure 6 (c)).

• Connect the other of end of the trigger wire that is connected to the light switch (E1)to pin number 6 of the E connector. Make sure it is routed properly and securely underthe dash first.

• Reassemble the E connector and reconnect it to the Electrical system control module.• Make sure all the connectors are secured in place and then latch the main locking system

of the Electrical system control module by sliding it sideways. It should be on the ZU(CLOSED) position.

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4.3.3. Relay connection (relay installation only)The following procedure is to install a relay on the fog light harness. It is only needed if

the Electrical system control module does not support fog lights (see section 2). If you areproceeding with the standard fog light installation, you can skip to the next section. It ispresumed that you have already installed and routed a new power supply wire for the relay asdescribed previously. First, we need to put the .250 terminals on the wires to go on the relay.

• Attach a .250 terminal connector on the 12 gauge power wire coming from the enginecompartment using a crimping tool. Make sure it is properly attached and of the ap-propriate size for the wire used.

• Cut the end of both fog lights wire from the fog light harness to remove the socketsusually used for the integration with the electrical system control module. These wiresshould be either grey with the identifications "Plug A pin 4" and "Plug D pin 2" or onegrey and the other yellow/grey if using color coding.

• Attach gauge 18 .250 terminals to the fog lights wires.• Cut the lose end of the trigger wire connected to the light switch (E1) and attach a .250

terminal of the appropriate size to it. One for wiring gauge 18 or 20 should do.• Take about two feet (2’) of lose wire. Gauge 18 or 20 should do just fine. This will be

the relay grounding wire.• Attach a .250 terminal to one end of the relay grounding wire and an O-connector to

the other end.

Now, it is time to connect everything to the relay.

• Route the wiring tidily under the dash.• Connect the wires to the relay as shown on figure 7:

– The white trigger wire from the Light Switch (E1) goes to terminal 86– The relay grounding wire goes to terminal 85– The power supply wire coming from the engine compartment goes to terminal 30– The two wires going to the front fog lights (those from the harness) connect to

terminal either one of the 87 terminals

NOTE : there should be two (2) terminals labelled 87. If not, you do not have anappropriate relay. If one is labelled 87A, you may have the right relay or not. Thiswill be confirmed during testing, but you most likely have a Single-Pole-Double-Throw(SPDT) relay. See testing (§4.4.8) for diagnostics and corrective measures.

• Route the grounding wire towards the side fuse panel.• Find an appropriate screw to connect the fuse ground wire. Make sure it is in contact

with the car chassis. One of the screws holding the fuse holder in place is a good choice.You can also try to locate a standard grounding terminal in that area.

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Figure 7: Relay with all wires connected.

• Secure the relay under dash. Make sure exposed wires do not touch any metal parts,which may cause a short circuit. Using shrinking tube to protect exposed terminals isgood practice. As you can see on figure 7, the connectors are very exposed. Protectingthem will prevent any accidental shot circuits or risk of injury during vehicule mainte-nance. This is especially important since the relay will be powered at all times (evenwhen contact is off).

4.4 Finishing, programming and testing4.4.1. Upper dash panel installation

If you removed the upper dash panel, now it’s time to put it back in place. Make sure theall the wires are properly routed and that they won’t be pinched by the panel.

• Reconnect the light dimmer switch connector (E20).• Route the light switch connector (E1) through the switch opening.• Put the panel back in place, making sure it is well seated in place. Be careful when

seating the upper part of the panel. There is a metal tab where the topmost mountingscrew goes (just under the instrument cluster) that can easily be pushed out of place.

• Put back the 5 mounting screws.• Put the trim located under the instrument cluster back in place.• Replace the cubby hold (if needed).

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4.4.2. Lower dash panel installationTo replace the lower dash panel, simply put it back in place starting at the rear and push

it up. It should hold in place by itself. Then put the two mounting screws in place. At thatpoint, you can also replace the side dash panel covering the fuse panel.

4.4.3. Light switch (E1) installationNow it’s time to install the new light switch.

• First you have to release the locking mechanism on the new switch. Place the switch inthe OFF (0) position.

• Firmly press the switch selector to push it inwards and turn it to the ON position. Theselector should stay in its inwards position.

• Connect the light switch connector to the new light switch.• Slide the light switch in place in the dash panel.• While Firmly pressing on the switch selector, turn it from the ON to the OFF (0)

position. The selector should come back out and the switch should be locked in place.

You are now done for this part of the installation and can move on to the engine compartment.4.4.4. Battery holder installation

To replace the battery holder, basically follow the reverse steps to remove it.

• Reinsert the battery holder in its previous location.• Reattach the wire originally connected to the SA1 fuse (200A). Make sure it is secured.• Secure the holder using the three (3) mounting screws.

4.4.5. Battery installationBefore proceeding with battery installation, double-check and make sure all wiring is safe.

Check that the key is in the OFF position and turn all electrical (lights, fan, etc.) off ifpossible.

• Place the battery on the battery holder and make sure it sits properly.• Replace the battery retaining bracket and bolt it in place between the engine and the

battery holder. Be careful not to drop the bracket or the bolt down in the enginecompartment.

• Make sure the retaining bracket mounting bolt is tight enough. The official tighteningtorque is 20 Nm.

• Check that the battery is held solidly in place. It should not move at all. Failing to doso may result in serious (and costly) damage to the car and/or battery. As usual, referto a specialist if you do not feel confident to do this installation yourself.

• Replace the front panel of the battery holder. Make sure the battery wires are properlyrouted.

• Reconnect the battery terminal clamp of the positive wire on the positive terminal ofthe battery and tighten.

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• Reconnect the battery terminal clamp of the ground (GND) wire on the negative ter-minal of the battery and tighten.

NOTE : Do not over-tighten the battery terminal, but make sure they are secured.4.4.6. Car power up procedure

Once you reconnected the battery, a few things must be done.

• First, turn the ignition key to the ON position and then OFF again. (Do not start theengine).

• Adjust the clock (if required)• Open and close all electrical windows completely then close them completely to reset

the electrical window regulators (hold the windows in their open and closed position fora few seconds). Failing to do so will prevent the automatic opening and closing of thewindows to work. Furthermore, it will prevent the obstruction/pinch detection to work.

• If you see a steering wheel light on the instrument panel, it means you need to reset thesteering angle sensor. This is done automatically after driving in a straight line ahead at15 to 20 km/h. Once this is done, the indicator lamp should turn off automatically. Ifnot, contact your service point for assistance. This procedure can be done immediatelyor later.

4.4.7. VAG-COM (VCDS) programming (standard installation only)For installation using a relay, the installation is pretty much over. Because you bypassed

the Electrical system control module, you do not need to reprogram it to support fog lights.This procedure assumes you have prior knowledge of VAG-COM (VCDS). Please backup youroriginal module coding before doing any modifications.

• Connect the car to a computer with VAG-COM (now called VCDS) software using acompatible HEX+CAN adaptor (refer to the VCDS manual for detailed help).

• Go to the module at address 09 (Cent. Elect.). This is the Electrical system controlmodule.

• Go into Coding - 07• Go into Long Coding.• On Byte 00, check the appropriate box to enable front fog lights. (Byte 00, bit 0 must

be set to 1 : Front fog lights installed).• Upload the new coding to the module.

You may also want to do the following changes (but they are not required):

• Module Address 09 (Cent. Elect.) : Coding Byte 18, Bit 2 set to 1 for Cold DiagnosisFront Fog Lights active. This should allow cold bulb detection for the newly installedfog lights (untested).

• Module Address 17 (Instruments) : Coding Byte 5, change to 1 for Europe or 4 for GreatBritain. Check module documentation for further details. Changing the instrumentcluster to European mode changes the behaviour of the light switch (E1). The newbehaviour is more consistent with the installation of fog lights, even with DRL active.

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4.4.8. TestingNow it is time to test the installation. Turn the light switch to the ON position and pull

on it to turn fog lights on.Standard Installation Testing If you did the standard installation and neither fog lightsare working, recheck the Cent. Elec. Module (address 09) coding. Also, check the groundingin the engine compartment. If the coding and grounding are correct, recheck the installationstep by step.Relay Installation Testing If both lights come on when you pull the light switch, thenthe installation seems fine. Good job. NOTE: when working on the relay connection, it is agood idea to remove the fuse from the in-line fuse box installed on the relay power supply lineto prevent accidental shorts or risks of electrocution. If no lights come one at all, double-checkthe installation step by step. Also:

• Check the relay power supply fuse you installed. If it is not in place, install it. If it isburnt out, you most likely have a short somewhere. Disconnect the battery and find thefault before going any further. Once the short is located (and fixed), replace a new fuseand reconnect the battery.

• Check all grounding (fog lights in engine compartment and relay grounding wire).• Check power supply to the relay on relay terminal 30. Should be 12 V.• Check the trigger wire connection on the relay. Make sure there is 12 V between termi-

nals 86 and 85 on the relay when the fog lights are ON. If not, there’s a problem withthe trigger wire. Make sure you installed it properly.

If one fog light is always on, but the other one comes on when you activate the fog lightswitch... you have the wrong relay type! You have a Single-Pole-Double-Throw (SPDT) relay.You need a Single-Pole-Single-Throw (SPST) relay. If you cannot find a SPST relay with twooutput terminals, finding one with a single output terminal should be easier. Connect bothfog lights wires from the harness to the same output terminal labelled 87. You can also keepyour SPDT relay and connect both fog lights to either output terminal, usually labelled 87and 87A. A quick test or the diagram (figure 3 (b)) on the relay will help you finding whichterminal to connect to.

If one fog light comes on but not the other, check the connections on the relay. You maytry to reverse the fog lights connection on the 87 relay terminals to see if this reverses thebehaviour on the fog lights as well. If not, you may have a defective fog light bulb. The relaymay also be a bit sluggish at first. Try cycling it a few times on and off. If this doesn’t work,it is probably defective. Replace it.

4.4.9. Front grill mountingFinally, you can mount the grills.

• Snap the driver side grill in place.• Snap the passenger side grill in place.• Secure the passenger side grill with the screw removed from the original grill.

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4.4.10. Fog lights alignmentThis procedure is the one given by mdonders in the rabbitownerslcub forum.

• Park the car 25 feet away from a wall on a level surface.• Measure the distance between the ground and the center of the fog lights (should be

about 13 inches).• Subtract 4 inches to that value and draw a line on the wall.• Align the top cut-off line of the fog lights with this line. The adjustment can be made

with a Torx screwdriver on the screw just beside the fog light projector (not the mountingscrews to fix the lights).

Enjoy your new fog lights!

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