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Home Tech Center FiTech EFI – Basic Setup Instructions

Posted on October 22, 2016

FiTech EFI – Basic SetupInstructions

These are a basic overview of the most common setup

questions.

Resetting to a stock calibration:

From the main menu go to the very bottom and select

Write Cal To ECU. Once in this menu scroll down to the

second to last selection, it should say Default v8 T195.

Once on this file select it and it will download to 100

percent. A�er this is done it will revert to the main menu.

Now go to Go EFI Initial Setup, then Engine Setup, now

input all of the parameters that are needed for your

application, making sure to save each one individually.

A�er you have entered your information and saved it go up and select Dash

Board. Once in dashboard turn the ignition key o� and wait for all the data

to black out. Once this happens turn the ignition key to the on positon and

start the car.

Search …

Menu

FiTech Fuel Injection, USA [email protected] 951-340-2624

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IAC Steps:

Turn the driver’s side throttle adjustment screw IN (clockwise) half a turn

to start with, with that done turn the key on and go to dashboard and find

TPS and make sure it reads zero. If not, then shut the key o� and wait for

the numbers to go black then turn the key on again. Once that reads zero

start the vehicle and find IAC Steps on dashboard. This number needs to be

within 3-10 at warm idle. If the number reads zero then slowly turn the

screw OUT (counter clockwise) until the IAC steps reads between 3-10. If the

number is above 10 then shut the vehicle o� and turn the screw IN as stated

above and repeat the process until the IAC steps are between 3-10.

Reset Learn:

All Fitech EFI systems have learning procedures that the system uses to

adjust the active fuel tables it is using for operation. Sometimes if there are

outside problems such as bad misfires, exhaust leaks, or any other situation

that could cause poor readings on the O2 sensor, the system will try to

compensate in order to keep the car running. If this happens it alters the

fuel map in ways that may not be optimal for proper running the engine

normally.

To reset the learn is a very easy procedure. Go into the Go EFI Initial setup

then find Reset Learn. Once in that menu find Reset All Learn, highlight this

and push right on the joy stick to go to #1, then save that to the ECU by

pressing IN on the joystick. Once that is saved go back to the main menu,

and then up to Dashboard and select it. Once on dashboard turn the key o�

and wait for the numbers in the value side to go black. This mean the

system has saved. You have now reset the learn function.

Data Logging:

Data logging is a useful tool for diagnoses and tuning. It allows you to

check how the many functions the system can read and go through them

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When the vehicle is running go onto the dashboard screen and press the

joystick on the right of the screen IN and a message will pop up saying Data

Log On. Now you will drive the car and get it to have the issue you are

having. Once you finish the drive you will press the button again and this

will save the data log. Then you can turn the vehicle o� and wait 15 seconds

for the data on the dashboard to go black. Once this happens you can take

the handheld to your PC and plug in the USB cable and handheld. The

handheld will light up with three menu options, USB mass storage is at the

top, select this. You should see a prompt on your PC to open the handheld

folder, if not go to My Computer and you should see a removable drive,

select it. Once the handheld folders come up on screen find the folder

labeled log_file. Select this folder and inside you should see several files

inside that say Dashboard, you can click on these and they will bring up an

Excel file showing the data you have recorded. You can also copy and paste

these files and send them to our technicians to look at as well.

Save your current settings and tune:

To save a tune first turn the key to the On position, not running. Then

find Read Cal from ECU on the main menu. Then select it, once in this menu

highlight one of the backup files you wish to save to and then either press

OK on the screen or push the joystick IN and it will save all your current

settings and parameters.

Cranking fuel adjustments:

With the key on go to the Go EFI Tuning menu, find Crank and Warm up.

There you will see three cranking fuel selections. For cold starts add or

subtract fuel from Crank fuel 65f, for hot starts add or subtract fuel from

crank fuel 170f. Changing these settings should help with your start up

issues along with setting the IAC. A good starting point is to change the

settings in intervals of 10 to find which way you need to adjust the system to

work better.

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If the system is having a hesitation or bogging issue, and you IAC steps

are between 3-10 at warm idle, then your next step would be to adjust the

accel pump function to increase or decrease the fuel added on acceleration.

To start with turn the key to the on position and then find Go EFI Tuning on

the main menu and press enter. Then find Accel pump and press enter. You

will see a menu with multiple di�erent settings, you need to focus on the

Accel pumps (20f, 65f, 170f) and Fast Accel (20f, 65f, 170f). These setting

adjust how much fuel, at varying temperatures, the system injects when you

accelerate. Accel pump is used for any normal throttle input, Fast Accel is for

any fast throttle inputs or Wide Open Throttle.

Hesitation: If the vehicle has a hesitation (when you step on the throttle and

the engine does hangs and/ or almost dies and then suddenly take o�) this

normally is a lack of fuel so you would fix this by increasing the Accel Pump

(for normal throttle input hesitations) or Fast Accel (for fast throttle or WOT

inputs). You would make changes starting in increments of 10, to the temp

range that you are finding the issue to reside in.

Bogging/engine loads up/slow to respond: If the vehicle is bogging (when

you step on the throttle and the engine is slower/sluggish to come up to a

higher rpm) this is normally caused by over fueling. To fix this you would

need to reduce the amount of fuel it is injecting as an accel pump shot. To

do this this decrease the Accel Pump (for normal throttle input hesitations)

or Fast Accel (for fast throttle or WOT inputs). You would make changes

starting in increments of 10, to the temp range that you are finding the issue

to reside in.

Decel Fuel Cut O�:

When you let o� throttle and decel with your vehicle the EFI will reduce

fueling to prevent popping and an over rich condition that would occur if

the fueling continued as it normally would. Depending on the size of your

engine, camsha� specs, engine temp, gearing, and several other factors like

environmental conditions, you may have either too much or too little fuel

cut on decel.

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Tuning and then find Fuel Cut Control. Inside this menu you will see an

option called DFCO Return fuel, this number represents the amount of fuel

the system will inject when it you start to give the vehicle throttle again. If

you are having a hesitation when getting back in the throttle then add to

the DFCO Return fuel to give the engine more fuel when transitioning back

to acceleration. You may also need to adjust your accel pump settings to

help with this transition as well.

Choosing a cam selection:

Cam selection is based on vacuum load of the engine. Cam 1 is for 15Hg

or above, Cam 2 is for 10Hg to 15hg, Cam 3 is 8Hg to 10Hg, Cam 4 is 8Hg to

6Hg. These are estimates and you may need to switch between them if the

vacuum load is between two di�erent cam settings to get the engine to run

better for your application.

Idle Return:

If the engine is not returning to idle quick enough for your liking or is

dropping too quickly and killing the engine then you may need to adjust the

rate at which the injection system comes to an idle. To do so you need to go

to Go EFI Tuning, then find and select Idle Control. Once in this menu you

will see several settings, the only one we are going to work with is Decel

open IAC. This number should be at zero as a base setting, by going

negative you are reducing the amount of time it takes to return to Idle, and

by going positive you are increasing the time it takes. Normal procedure of

adjustment is to add or subtract 10 to start with and then adjust it to your

liking or what the engine needs. Then once the setting is input save it to the

ecu by pushing the joystick IN, the handheld will show Send To ECU

Successful. Once this is done make sure to go back to the dashboard and

turn the key o� until the numbers clear out on the value side. This shows

that the system has saved.

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Quick Start Guide – Setting

Up Your Handheld Controller

Ultimate LS Induction System

Features & FAQ’s

AFR: Air Fuel Ratio. Some vehicles may have greater needs for fueling

that the self-learn may not be able to adjust in a great enough amount to

operate correctly right out of the box. The injection unit is always trying to

maintain a targeted AFR throughout its operation. It is either adding or

taking away fuel at any given time from its current fuel table in order to do

this. The AFR target is what the computer is constantly adjusting for (the

higher the number the more lean the mixture, the lower the number the

more rich the mixture is), but some engines need di�erent fueling

depending on the CID and cam they have. To adjust these numbers you

must go to our Go EFI Tuning menu then to AFR targets, typically adjusting

any AFR target should be done .01 at a time either up or down as the AFR

has drastic e�ects on how the engine runs.

Once in this menu you will see 10 settings you can adjust. Number 1 is for

Idle AFR which can range from 13.4 to 14.7 on average depending on the

engine. Adjusting this setting will help idle quality and takeo� from an idle.

The 1100, 3000, 6000 at 45kpa cruise are your cruising AFR ratios, these can

vary from 13.8 to 14.7 on average depending on the engines needs and your

desired fuel economy. The cruise AFR only e�ects cruise so it will not a�ect

your acceleration or other AFR settings. WOT 1100, 3000, 6000 are your

acceleration enrichment settings and are used for adjusting the desired

fueling for accelerating under either part throttle or WOT. The average for

these settings only ranges from 12.4 to 12.7, any accelerator needs beyond

that will require one of our technicians to go over with you. Boost 1100,

3000, 6000 180kpa should stay within 11.5 to 11.7 on most engines with

boost, any further adjustments to your boosted AFR settings should be

brought up with one of our technicians.

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185 comments on “FiTech EFI – BasicSetup Instructions”

J

October 22, 2016

Looking at the 1200 power adder. Will this system work with MSD 6

btm? Thanks J

Bryce - FiTech Tech Pro

October 27, 2016

Yes it will.

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October 25, 2016

WI’ll a dual plane intake work? System is going on a 1977 bronco


October 28, 2016

Dual Plane intakes work GREAT!

Alberto G Grana

October 26, 2016

With the new so�ware. How do I control the idle returning time?

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Follow these steps on the handheld

1. Go to GO EFI TUNING

2. Idle Control

3. Decel open IAC

4. lower this value. Try -10

Lewis

November 6, 2016

Is there new so�ware available?


November 9, 2016

We intend to release a new version of so�ware shortly that

changes the way that timing control and idle control are setup.

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Je�

December 19, 2016

Bryce, I have a 600 power adder, running 2 fans no ac. I am using

timing. I have all set and during my initial learn, I have randomly

shut down 2 times while watching idle for 30 min. I drove 3 miles

to gas up and on return I died while running steady 45mph. did

not start right back up but a�er about 1 minute fired up and

drove home. I suspect its electrical as it didn’t even sputter. The

handheld never went out so I think the ecu keeps power. Any

thoughts on what to look at?


December 20, 2016

Keep an eye on rpm when this happens and also check fault

codes. You can get RPM interference from the two wire

distributor so twist the leads from the distributor to reduce the

possibility of this. Also if you are using a CDI box be sure its

wiring is routed separately from the EFI wiring.

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Dallas

October 26, 2016

I’m working on an engine for Terry Slaton with a go street 400hp.

Some other shop installed it but could not make it run correctly.

Terry says the engine is a 350ci out of a 1992 chev truck originally

with tbi. I have adjusted the timing(hei not computer controlled) I

reset the ecu to stock calibration and started from there. I have it

running quite smoothly at 14.7/1 afr, have set iac to 10 with electric

fan on. My problem now is a�er engine is o� 5 to 10 minutes it will

start and die. I have adjusted cranking fuel from -50 to +40 with no

change. any ideas? thanks,

Dallas Haner


October 28, 2016

Depending on how the fuel system is plumbed you may be

running into a vapor lock issue. Another possibility is loss of a

RPM signal. Look at RPM on the dashboard of the handheld

during cranking. You should see a cranking rpm even if the engine

doesn’t start. This could point to a failing ignition module.

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Alberto G Grana

October 27, 2016

Do you have new basic setup instructions for the new so�ware?

I have not found how to adjust the idle return commands in my

handheld control. The “Decel Open IAC” option is not there.


October 28, 2016

If you have a Go Street EFI the Decel Open IAC adjustment is in

the Pro Calibration. This can be turned on by going to Display

Setup and marking Pro Tuning to “show” and the menu will pop

up in the Main Menu.

Tony

October 31, 2016

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Will this work on a stock 350? Literally nothing special, just a stock

probably 180 horse 350. Flat tops 882 heads with a dual plane

intake, I’ve purchased your setup o� of eBay. It’s the. 311727171296

part number.


November 10, 2016

Not only will this system work… Most likely you wont have to

adjust a thing because we run every system that leaves our

facility on a SBC with a mild cam.

Angel Alvarez

November 1, 2016

Hello there, I have few questions. Start o� with I can’t seem to get

the iac steps to 3-10 and my tips is at 0.0%. I have moved the driver

side screw counter clockwise a few turns, and still it is at a about

25-32 ish. Next question is I can’t seem to get rid of the hesitation

a�er I decel going down hills, etc. When I give it a quick response

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A�er I decel a bit and come to a stop the vehicle almost dies, drops

to 400 rpm and is a bit slow to recover. Vehicle is 71 Bronco, 302, a

bigger cam unknown specs. Headers, msd 6a ignition, msd

distributor, advanced 10° and running afr at 14.0, seems to be the

happiest there. Efi 400 with fuel command center. Any help, and tips

I can get will be awesome.

Thanks!


November 10, 2016

Your throttle adjustment is o� because you are turning the

adjustment screw the wrong directions. To bring IAC steps down

you need to turn the screw in CLOCKWISE and then key o� to re-

zero the TPS.

See Decel Fuel Cut adjustments to remedy your hesitation. The

EFI shuts fuel completely o� on decel and your light throttle input

is making the transition very noticeable with the default setting.

Uzek Susol

November 1, 2016

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I have decided to use a MSD #8570 distributor with no MSD box with

your 300001 EFI to control the timing. Being as there is no MSD box

& your EFI will be triggering the ignition coil what coil/OHMS coil do

you recommend? Thanks.


November 10, 2016

Any standard 12 volt coil will work. I believe most are around .08

to 1.5 ohms.

Nils

November 2, 2016

Can I change out the inlet fitting to a -08 AN on the Go EFI 8 Power

Adder Plus? If so what size inlet is on the unit itself? I see it has a -06

and my current lines are -08 and I don’t want to use a reducer.

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November 9, 2016

The inlet thread size on the throttle body is 9/16-24. This is a

common carb inlet thread size so it should be easy to find.

Dave Abernathy

November 3, 2016

Have Meanstreet ….Handheld doesn’t have ProCal So�ware on it.

How/Where do I get it??? Thanks


November 10, 2016

Only Power Adder systems have the Pro Tuning So�ware.

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Dave Abernathy

November 21, 2016

While waiting on your response, i realize it’s the Data Logging

capability that isn’t working on my contoller. I followed the

instructions to press toggle in while motor running and the

Data Logging screen will appear….it doesn’t. Please respond.

Thanks


November 23, 2016

Which system do you have. Some kits come without logging

capability like the Mean Street and Go Street.

Ken lemieux

November 6, 2016

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Will this work on 4cylinder vw turbo 2333 cc engine?


November 9, 2016

I have had customers us our systems on VW engines. As far as

how to hook up the coolant temp sensor you are on your own. My

guess is reading head temp?

Alberto G Grana

November 6, 2016

Hi!

Frequently when I start up my engine the screen in the handheld

control turns white. I have to unplugs the connectors and plug then

back so the display shows again. Is that normal? Do I have some

kind of electrical problem al startup?

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November 9, 2016

If the screen on the handheld turns white or blacks out during

cranking you have a low voltage issue. The RED (battery) wire

needs to go directly to the positive post on the battery.

michael j bates

November 7, 2016

how do i hook up a ford tvs cable to your throttle body? i have a AFB

carb with a locar set up on it now. i need a way to hook up the tvs

for the AOD trans.. thanx


November 9, 2016

The linkage on the throttle body is similar to a holley carb. Any

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Ron Foote

November 11, 2016

Hello I’m installing a 600hp unit on my aircooled VW with roughly

295 hp am I going to have trouble programming it I’m also

turbocharged any info would be greatly appreciated .


November 11, 2016

We do not have information on VW setups as our systems were

designed more for v8 applications. We have a ton of people doing

your setup and even a dealer that only sells to the VW market.

Only thing I can think of that would be special is intake runner

length on VW engines are LONG and may require a good amount

of Acceleration enrichment adjustments.

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February 4, 2017

Ron,

RADesigns, Rodney Adams is a vw mechanic and has been tuning

vw’s with these kits. He also sells vw performance parts. He has

been a great help with me. I installed a PA600 blowthrough turbo

kit on a 2276 and will be running it soon. look me up on facebook.

Lewis

Terry Donnenworth

November 12, 2016

Hey Guys, I have a 408 sbc with Dart iron heads ( sportsman 2’s )

Toqurer 2 cam 106 overlap 10:2-1 . 750 DP ,HP carb with a wilson

carb spacer on a air gap intake.I also run 112 race gas , 1 gal. to 10

gal of 93 octane , plus I’m at 18 degrees advance on a MSD vacuum

distributor, I have know idea what horsepower i have ,so i wanna

know what to buy ? I’m looking at the mean set up , This is not a

daily driver its in a 1953 F-100 ,but i do drive it a lot during the

summer months, What do you think? Plus in the winter months i

disconnect the battery ,will this loose all data ?and do i have to start

all over in spring? Oh and i have a mechanical fuel pump that puts

out a max of 7 lbs , i wanna run your command center also, Thank

you ………

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November 16, 2016

First of all leaded fuels will kill an oxygen sensor which is required

to run our system. Most racing fuels have lead additives so be

aware of this.

How much vacuum does your engine produce? 106 LSA is on the

narrow side and will require additional tuning for the system to

idle properly.

If you allow the system time to save which is about 30 seconds

a�er key o� you can remove main power to the unit.

Charles Fox

November 13, 2016

Can not get my engine to idle under 1200 rpm. What do I need to do.

It’s a 400hp unit on a 355 sbc with around 330 hp

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November 16, 2016

Can you please elaborate on this. Can you not get it to idle down?

If so this is a possible vacuum leak. If it idles down but then cuts

out and dies this can be an ignition system issue. Check fault

codes for a possible po335 rpm noise code.

kevin letner

November 17, 2016

hey guys i am looking at your 600hp street version with timing

control. i have a 11.5.1 331 sbf afr heads in a 94 cobra edelbrock air

gap performer rpm intake 280/280 .550intake .565 exhaust cam do i

need timing control could i go with the 400 hp street kit car is 6

speed 3.55 gears 3100lb kevin


November 22, 2016

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If these cam specs are a .050″ I would recommend timing control

otherwise its up to you if you want to have additional adjust-

ability of your ignition timing.

Kevin

November 18, 2016

First thing in the morning..cold engine, Turn key on let the system

prime completely then start.. it goes up on rpm as it should but then

drops quickly to almost stall out. It hasn’t died completely and does

recover but it still tries and struggles to idle at warm up idle speed

instead of what I would think should be a bit higher until it is

warm…once warmed up, it idles great.

What can be done to help fix this issue? Thanks


November 24, 2016

Be sure you have you IAC steps set correctly. Also try leaning out

your target AFR at idle to a leaner setting like 14.2

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Daniel Nall

November 21, 2016

I have a 445 ci FE engine, and we have to pedal the car to get it

started and for a few seconds a�er it is started just to keep it from

dying. This is more prevalent when the car is ice cold. Is this

normal? It is a hydraulic roller making 500 hp, warmed over

Edelbrock heads, not too radical.


November 23, 2016

Adjust your IAC steps and lean the engine out at idle to around

14.2 afr. If your engine pulls less than 9 inches of vacuum you may

want to creep the idle afr up to around 14.7-15.0.

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My AIC steps will not stay where I adjust them to (a�er using proper

adjustment/saving technic). I get them set and they will not stay the

same a�er something like a rev or a restart. They’ll go from the

suggested range to mid-teens to mid-20s. I don’t believe there are

any exhaust leaks ahead of the o2 sensor and I have welded the

sensor bung in place. Is there anything I should be looking for? I

have the GoEFI-8 with the FCC.


November 23, 2016

This is fine. We just want you to set in in an acceptable range and

the EFI will then adjust as needed.

Tom Luke

November 25, 2016

hello I am having trouble trying to set the IAC it is running 140 some

time it will drop to 120 I have adjusted both adjustments screws

don’t help much.

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tom


November 29, 2016

It is important to remember that you need to key o� for 30

seconds a�er turning the screw in. If you are around 120 steps

currently turn in 1.5 turns clockwise and again key o� for 30

seconds a�er.

Dale Jaacks

November 26, 2016

I have the 30003 system and seem to get it to run. Try to get to start

and have to open the throttle then have to open it up quite a bit and

it will run. But will not stay running. try to get it to idle but it starts

to dump more fuel in it and floods itself. What am I missing. This is

on a 68 Corvette 383ci, HEI with charge on it. Fuel Press on the high

side is 58psi and low side is 5psi., Need help

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November 30, 2016

Check for fault codes in the handheld. Also make sure you have

no vacuum leaks and that the system is reading a proper RPM.

Mikie

November 28, 2016

What distributor do you recommend? If I have a carberated style

distributor do I need to get an efi style? I’m looking at the 1200

power adder set up for a Windsor based setup.


November 30, 2016

We predominantly use HEI distributors here. Any 12 volt ignition

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Arden Dean

November 28, 2016

I’m Having a hot start issue. is there a timer preventing it from re-

starting? It will start hot as long as It sits for 5 minutes a�er its

turned o�.


December 1, 2016

You need to increase the Cranking Fuel 170 setting. Try increasing

it by 10.

Wayne

November 28, 2016

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30002 The car starts for 2 secs and dies like someone turned the key

o�. checked all elec, connections they seem to be fine any ideas?.

Fuel 9lbs in 60 out.


December 2, 2016

The most common issue is the white wire dropping voltage

during cranking. This wire needs 12 volts at key on and crank.

Also check for a RPM being registered on the handhelds

Dashboard during cranking.

Wayne

December 3, 2016

White wire is fine. Blue wire has no signal all connections are

fine (both your and mine) checked with Ohm meter tack in car

is working. Can this be in ECM?

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December 7, 2016

Is the Handheld reading a RPM during cranking? Also be sure

the tach selection is set on TACH not VR-Coil.

Dave Erickson

December 13, 2016

Hey Bryce, can’t seem too lose the hesitation o� idle. IAC steps are

set correctly (3-10) Accel @ 20 is 4, Accel@ 65 is 23 170 is 14, all on

the + side. don’t have any issues on fast accel. Car runs really well

other than this issue. 402 BB Chevy Comp. Cam 280 magnum .521

li�. Pertronix ign. I,m new to the EFI game & don’t know alot of

those readouts on the handheld mean. Any help would be great.


December 15, 2016

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trans?


December 22, 2016

Are you using vacuum advance on your distributor? What is your

distributor base timing at? This could be just a timing issue as it

seems like you have played extensively with Accel Pump.

Halvor Sunde, Norway

December 17, 2016

Hi. I`m in process of planning the motor to my next hotrod. This i a

CSB 400 with 6/8-71 blower/ TKO 600. I already have a Fitech on my

Willys pu, and planning for use the same on this engine. HP range

for this motor will be 600-800, and my question is if I can use a

singel or if I need a double body 1200 hp unit.

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December 19, 2016

You will have to use one of the following

30012 Go EFI 8 1200hp

30064 Go EFI Dual Quad

Phil

December 17, 2016

Cold start very erratic and slow, Should I raise of lower 65f setting?

Once warm idles fine.


December 19, 2016

0

You will ultimately have to try it both ways to get started. Try

increasing it by 10 one day and then -10 the next. This will give

you an idea if your engine needs more or less fuel.

Tommy Kimble

December 18, 2016

I have a 351 Cleveland with Edelbrock RPM Airgap manifold, mild

cam(2), any idea what my target RPM should be. It seems pretty

happy with 900 ish. I have my IAC dialed as recommended. Anything

else I need to consider?


December 19, 2016

You should be able to get the idle down to 800 no problem. It

really is a personal preference though.

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Joshua Kelly

December 19, 2016

I have the go efi 4 600hp model installed on a Ford 363w with

electronic ignition it has been installed for a year and worked fine

and I jumped in the truck today and it won’t respond to any throttle

input it just bogs out until you let o� it won’t drive over an idle any

help would be greatly appreciated thanks Josh


December 20, 2016

Check for fault codes first and foremost. They can be found on the

Main Menu option 7-8 called FAULT CODE.

Peter

December 19, 2016

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still have to romp on it at take-o�. While I don’t mind spinning the

wheels, I prefer to choose when:)


December 20, 2016

Grab as high as possible on the throttle linkage arm to get the

most mechanical leverage.

Robbie Spell

December 19, 2016

Will VP racing fuel burn out the o2 sensor?


0

Racing fuel is usually leaded and the lead is what kills the oxygen

sensor. If you use unleaded fuel it will be okay.

Shawn Hanes

January 4, 2017

One of your techs recommend I Google an AR chart to help me tune

my go street on my 82 bronco 351w. Bone stock motor. Stock c6

auto. There a a lot of charts and opinions out there…….can you

recommend one that you think is best? Thanks, Shawn


January 6, 2017

There are a lot of tables out there and I understand your

confusion. Here is one what shows best AFR’s under di�erent

loads.

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Roger Hendricks

January 7, 2017

I have the 600 power adder and a Pertronix flame thrower igniter 3

distributor and would like to use the timing control . My question is

do I wire it like it shows as a conventional distributor W/Timing

control ? Thanks


January 7, 2017

You will need a 2 wire magnetic pick up distributor to switch to

timing control. The Pertronix distributor will not work. Just a key

note on timing control as well. It is NOT self learning so for best

results you will have to build an ignition curve in the handheld to

best suit your engine. The default curve is close to a stock HEI

distributor.

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600hp system on a ford 302,

at the engine setup stage when trying to enter info, handheld says

no ecu response, Help?

Cody- FiTech Tech Pro

January 17, 2017

When you turn the key on do you hear the fuel pump turn on or

the injectors prime? where is your white wire connected to?

Mattias

January 15, 2017

Can the temperature setting be change from Fahrenheit to Celsius?

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Cody- FiTech Tech Pro

January 17, 2017

If you go into display setup you can set the parameter display

from english to metric by pushing the joystick to the right when

you highlight this setting.

M. Mosley

January 17, 2017

I have two questions for you. I have the 30002 system with

aeromotive stealth phantom 340 in tank fuel pump.eng. is a Ford

347c.i. Question #1 with eng. up to temp. Tps at zero I can’t seem to

get the iac adjusted to the target range! It always comes back down

to zero. I make a small adjustment while eng. is running, then key

o� and wait up to five mins. Start it up, iac numbers come back to

zero. Temp. Is fine, far is 13.6 ,idle is fine, what am I missing?Note: I

have only put about 30 miles on this install.

Question #2 the chrome cap with the nipple on the pass. Side,doe’s

this get a vac. Hose?, and if so , hooked to what?

Love this system, Thanks

0

January 17, 2017

If the IAC keeps going to zero simply back the screw out counter

clockwise until the number goes to zero. Follow the guide at this

link for doing this adjustment. The Chrome Fuel pressure

regulator must be connected the manifold vacuum.

https://fitechefi.com/fitech-efi-basic-setup-instructions/

Rich

January 17, 2017

When adjusting AFR. It says in .01 at a time do you mean .1 at a time

? Also I have an Issue at idle , I’m getting some kind of spike or

interference in the tach signal. You can see on my tach the needle

spikes up and the idle is irractic when that happens. I was trying to

set the IAC steps and it just Idles irratic and tach spikes.


January 20, 2017

0

from each other as much as possible. If the have to cross dont run

them parallel to each other at any time.

paul

January 18, 2017

Hello i have the 600 hp set up. When I start the engine cold it runs so

low i have to hit the petal to keep it running. What am I missing?

When it hits 170temp it starts to idle up to the set idle.


January 20, 2017

Set your idle using the IAC steps in the Basic setup. Once its

between 3-10 you can start working on cold cranking by adjusting

cranking fuel on a cold engine 20 or 65 degrees.

0

Giovani olioza

January 19, 2017

why sometimes the TPS read 0,5 and disturb the idle?


January 20, 2017

0.5 is still in the idle circuit so idle is not disrupted.

Greg Kenne

January 20, 2017

I just had the 400hp set up installed on my 1977 Jeep Wagoneer

with the 403ci engine. The throttle spring is so sti� that it’s hard to

regulate the gas pedal. The throttle return spring is pretty light, so

that’s not the problem. Can the spring be adjusted or replaced so

this thing can be driven safely on the street?

0


January 21, 2017

The best I can suggest is get a Holley Throttle Bushing and hook

the throttle cable to the top hole on the linkage. This will give you

the most mechanical leverage on the throttle.

Chad deahn

January 23, 2017

What would you guys suggest would be a good a�er market throttle

linkage set up for my Go street 400 hp application with a command

center.

I’m running a 360 AMC engine with

Edlebrock manifold in a CJ Jeep.

Oh and just a note the system started and running beautifully right

out of the box. Only change I made was at idle. From 820

To 700

0

January 24, 2017

Our linkage is the same as a holley carb so any linkage setups for

a holley carb should work.

Chase Dudley

January 25, 2017

Will the the Go EFI 600 power adder work with my HEI distributor on

my big block chevy. It has a terminal for tach and also has a

mechanical tach drive.


January 26, 2017

Yes a HEI distributor will work with the Go EFI 4.

0

Chad

January 25, 2017

In case I ever need to replace the pump in the fuel command center,

how does it open up and is there a special tool needed


January 26, 2017

A spanner wrench is the ideal way to open the Command Center

but you can always use a so� material punch and hammer the lid

o�. It un-threads from the top. A piece of wood or wooden dowel

tend to be what people are using. The pump if available for sale

and is pt# 40102.

Tyler Sisum

January 27, 2017

0

i have a sbf with the power adder 600. Gonna run 70 mm turbo

around 10 lbs of boost. What style distributor would be best for my

plans?


January 30, 2017

Any 12 volt ignition system will work. If you are looking to use the

timing control feature so you can pull timing under boost you will

need a 2-wire magnetic pickup distributor that is locked out and

phased.

Binderbird

January 29, 2017

0

Why do you not send these instructions in the box when you sell the

throttle body. It would be allot easier for everyone. Took me a week

to find this set of instructions. By the way my Binderbird,,, 68

Firebird 4X4 with an international 345 loves your 400 hp. unit!


January 30, 2017

We do have instructions in the boxes. It seems like there was a

boxing error in your case which I am extremely sorry about. I am

happy that you were able to get the system going!

kenneth machac

January 31, 2017

0

I am installing a 400hp unit on an inline 6 258 jeep . it wont let me

change from 8 cylinder default , it started and idled ok , is it a issue

to leave it on 8 cycl.setting or should I do the resetting of ecm listed

at the top of page , Thanks


February 7, 2017

Follow the steps below

1. Go to MAIN MENU

2. GO to last option (Write Cal To ECU)

3. Select and load the Default V6 file

4. Go through Initial Setup

Chad

February 1, 2017

Bryce

TPS is at 0.0 the IAC step I adjusted to 6 the target AFR is running at

13.4 TPS is at 0.0 My question is are there any other categories I

0

whole hard and stays with it all The way through the hundred yards.

I also have been taking it in the woods and going up some pretty

steep banks no problem so far with needle in the seats in the fuel

command center. Running on rough terrain, lots of bouncing

around doesn’t seem to a�ect the injection system at all either. So

far testing your system o� roadRoad looks like the system works

pretty darn good.


February 7, 2017

That is great to here. Anything is adjustable in the system but if

your engine is running well you do not need to change anything

else. If anything I would lean out your idle AFR. Most people end

up at around 14.2.

Alec Baird

February 6, 2017

I had the white wire on the ECU connected to the ACC post on my

fuse box in the car, the ECU did not run correctly. I changed the

0

the key to the OFF position or unhook the battery. Do I have the

white wire hook up incorrectly? Also, when the car is driving, the

dashboard only shows 12.3 V, is this normal or does it mean my

alternator is bad? The battery is showing about 13.4 volts at IDLE.


February 10, 2017

The white wire needs 12 volts at key on and cranking. When the

key is o� it should have 0 Volts. It seems that you have the wire

hooked to 12 volts constant right now.

Siggi

February 8, 2017

Hi i have the 600hp system in my truck, it idles like a dream and

accelarates great in low gears but when under load 40% or higher

throttle in higher gears under 3000 rpm A/F ratio falls to 10.4

becomes sluggish and backfires through the exhaust until rpm rises

close to 3k where the afr slowly rises to its target and the truck

comes alive again. I have run it like this for a few hours during last

0

this?


February 11, 2017

Check for Fault Codes. They can be found on the MAIN MENU

under FAULT CODES. If there is a code it could be P0335 which is

for RPM noise from the ignition system. You would need to go

through your ignition and check for loose or worn components. It

also could be from EMI in the ignition which CDI boxes are

notorious for.

If no codes are found then an accel pump adjustment will need to

be made.

If the system is having a hesitation or bogging issue, and you IAC

steps are between 3-10 at warm idle, then your next step would

be to adjust the accel pump function to increase or decrease the

fuel added on acceleration. To start with turn the key to the on

position and then find Go EFI Tuning on the main menu and press

enter. Then find Accel pump and press enter. You will see a menu

with multiple di�erent settings, you need to focus on the Accel

pumps (20f, 65f, 170f) and Fast Accel (20f, 65f, 170f). These setting

adjust how much fuel, at varying temperatures, the system injects

when you accelerate. Accel pump is used for any normal throttle

input, Fast Accel is for any fast throttle inputs or Wide Open

Throttle.

Hesitation: If the vehicle has a hesitation (when you step on the

0

suddenly take o�) this normally is a lack of fuel so you would fix

this by increasing the Accel Pump (for normal throttle input

hesitations) or Fast Accel (for fast throttle or WOT inputs). You

would make changes starting in increments of 10, to the temp

range that you are finding the issue to reside in.

Bogging/engine loads up/slow to respond: If the vehicle is

bogging (when you step on the throttle and the engine is

slower/sluggish to come up to a higher rpm) this is normally

caused by over fueling. To fix this you would need to reduce the

amount of fuel it is injecting as an accel pump shot. To do this this

decrease the Accel Pump (for normal throttle input hesitations) or

Fast Accel (for fast throttle or WOT inputs). You would make

changes starting in increments of 10, to the temp range that you

are finding the issue to reside in.

brookshire

February 11, 2017

I have a caspers electronics tps breakout part # 108103 to hook up

to the tps sensor on the fitech 600 power adder the wires are blue

gray and black the same as on the fitech what colors are for power

signal and ground

0


February 16, 2017

You only need to use the signal wire which is the BLUE wire.

Chad deahn

February 11, 2017

My go street system has been working well since I installed about a

month ago. Although Over the past two days I have experience

problems with just driving down the road and the command center

runs out of fuel. When I get out and open the hood and try to restart

the vehicle there is no high side pressure whatsoever. I have to re-

prime the command center with fuel and then it will fire up again.

There are other websites that talk about the command center

having issues with a check ball valve in there venting system. Bryte

or Cody can you help me out I don’t trust the system to drive it

anywhere without having problems that I’m experiencing.

Thanks

Chad

0

Your issue is from one of two things.

1. The mechanical fuel pump is not feeding fuel into the

command center quick enough to run you engine.

2. The vent line on the command center has a restriction in it

causing the system to pressurize. If the command center builds

pressure inside it can stop fuel from coming into it.

Cleophus Russell

February 18, 2017

I have a HEI system I’m getting code po 335 there’s nothing wrong

with the distributor how can I fix this code and get the car to run.


February 21, 2017

This code shows that there is an issue with the RPM signal being

given to the EFI. You have to look from the blue wire out toward

0

wrong) causing over fueling. The only time I have seen this not be

the ignition system is when an alternator wire is run parallel with

the main harness of the EFI.

Mark Huntoon

February 20, 2017

Will the ecu control fuel pressure?


February 21, 2017

The fuel injection system does not digitally control fuel pressure.

There is a fuel pressure regulator on the throttle body that will

maintain the fuel pressure with a return line back to the gas tank.

0

Jake korolewicz

February 23, 2017

i have a 30001 fitech kit and want to make it a returnless setup. i

plan on using the frame mounted inline kit that was also purchased.

Other than capping o� the return port is there anything else i have

to purchase or install to make sure the system is properly set up?

Car is a 1964 Ford Galaxie country wagon with a 390ci in it.


February 28, 2017

You need to install a return back to your tank. There is no way

around it as the regulator returns un-used fuel to maintain fuel

pressure.

Jay Mayor

February 23, 2017

My IAC had been in the 130s when cruising and when coming to a

0

climb up again. Any ideas as to why? Thank you.

jay


March 3, 2017

This is normal. The system moves the IAC anticipating future RPM

changes. The only time this number matters is at an idle in park

or neutral.

Randy

February 23, 2017

Can you adjust with the hand held controller, an AFR leaner than

14.7:1. For a lean cruise mode?

0


March 3, 2017

Yes you can adjust the AFR to whatever you want. The selection is

in GO EFI TUNING and it is called AFR TARGETS.

Raymond Hutchen

February 24, 2017

Hi Bryce

I have a 1200 hp twin throttle body 8 efi power adder, I have it

mounted on a quad turbo charged V12 5.3 Jag engine, I have

changed the lucas distributor internals to a Pertronix LU-1122A two

wire electronic ignition , I have locked the distributor but still used

the vacuum advance. When I turned on the ignition to go to the

main menu section 4 Go-efi. Inital setup, I can’t change the

cylinders from 8 to V12, It also won’t let me change from TACH to

2Wire+Coil. What do I do to change the settings. Regards, Ray.


March 3, 2017

0

Two things on this one. First o� the system can not be changed to

more cylinders than 8. Second the distributor you have will not

control timing.

If you have installed the system already this is what I recommend

to do. To Run the engine with this system you need to use a ready

to run style ignition as the EFI cant control your engine. Then just

try to run it on 8 cylinder selection. Your RPM will be wrong but

the system should be able to fuel for it regardless.

Let us know how this goes as we have never had someone put

our kit on a V12 before.

Ray Hutchen

March 6, 2017

Hi Bryce, thanks for your reply, Disappointing that the

Pertronix magnetic two wire electronic ignition system is not

suitable for your EFI System. as I purchased it on the pretence

that it would, I cant buy a ready to run system (that I am aware

of ) for the V12 Jag engine that is a two wire magnetic system.

The Jag Lucas system was a 3 wire magnetic so I changed it to

the Pertronix two wire. I needed your system as I am running a

Quad turbo charged setup on it and was going to add NOS as

well and needed to control the timing. From your literature it

said that it would be suitable for any engine just select the

number of cylinders.

0

the rev range and it would not feed the correct amount of fuel, I

have since removed it and have bought two blowthrough

Carby’s.

If you ever get a EFI program setup to be able to run on the V12

and that you know of a suitable two wire system that will work

on a 5.3 Jag engine that is also compatible to your EFI system

please let me know. This is set up in a 1927 RoadsterHot Rod.

norbert j buziewicz

February 26, 2017

I have a big block 496 Chevy and just ordered the 1200 HP kit. I have

a carb on the car now with an a1000 inline pump. Will this work to

feed the throttle body? And if so can I just hook it up to the kit or do

I need another pressure regulator?


March 7, 2017

With an Aeromotive A1000 you will need an external bypass

regulator instead of the throttle bodies regulator. This is because

0

Bob Koenig

February 26, 2017

I’m still in the setup of my system having only had the car running a

few times but I’m having a problem starting the car a�er bringing it

up to temperature. If I let it sit for a while and come back it will start


March 7, 2017

Follow the CRANKING FUEL ADJUSTMENTS on the BASIC SETUP.

Other possibilities are loss of RPM from your ignition or No fuel

pressure.

0

February 27, 2017

My TPS reading on the handheld does not go to 100%. It usually

peaks at 89.8%. Is this a problem? How can I fix it?

Donnie- FiTech Tech

February 27, 2017

This is not a problem, the system looks at throttle change not

throttle position to determine fueling.


February 28, 2017

Ideal low side pressure to the Fuel Command Center should be 4-8

PSI.

0

Rick Lance

February 28, 2017

I’m thinking about put in your system on a 2000 5.3 out of a truck

with cathedral heads . It’s going in a 1965 el camino will the system

work with this engine . Thank you Rick Lance


March 7, 2017

Both our Ultimate LS or the GO EFI Throttle body systems will

work on your engine.

Ayudhia Narain

March 1, 2017

Hello,

I have 4 vacuum lines coming o� of my 350sbc and th350 trans.

There is brake boost, pvc, distributor advance, and one coming o�

the transmission. In figure 4 page 4 the instructions state there is a

0

with a hose attached to that vacuum nipple running to the other

side of the efi, i think thats the built in fuel regulator it is running to?

is that correct?. Where do I hook my transmission vacuum line in at.

Do I tee o� the existing hose on the EFI? Please advise, i am in the

middle of the install.

Thanks,


March 7, 2017

The vacuum line that is installed on your unit is an UPDATE that

we are now using. You can Tee into this line for your transmission

modulator.

oscar castro

March 2, 2017

Hi I have a 454 big block with a manual 6 speed trans, my question

is when I am driving and I am in lets say 3 gear and come to slow

down to turn without downshi�ing the car turns o�, so what is

0


March 7, 2017

Under GO EFI TUNING there is a section called FUEL CUT

CONTROL. You will need to mess with the number in here. Try the

following.

Decel Cut MAP = 18

Decel Return MAP = 20

Stan Garver

March 3, 2017

I just put your system on a 78 Ford F150 with a 400 and C6

automatic. Do you supply an adapter for the C6 kick down rod? I

tried using the one I took o� the old eldelbroc but the angle is

wrong and the rod won’t reach.

0


March 7, 2017

Get an adapter for a holley carb as the thottle bodies linkage is

the same as that carb.

Chris

March 4, 2017

Will the basic kit (no trans controller) require a VSS signal to run

correctly?


March 7, 2017

The NON Trans control systems do NOT need a VSS signal.

0

Dan Brownlie

March 9, 2017

I have installed the FiTech 30003 unit on my 1981 Pontiac Trans Am.

The car has a 301 Turbo 4.9ltr engine (worst Pontiac motor ever but

i’m trying to make it work). I put an in line fuel pump on it and when

I went to start it I primed the lines, the unit gives a squirt of fuel to

start with and the car turns over and fires immediately then dies. It’s

as if the fuel doesn’t pump a�er the initial squirt….. any help would

be greatly appreciated as I know bugger all about motors and

probably shouldn’t be even doing this……


March 9, 2017

Check the white wire for 12 volts during cranking. This is the most

common no start issue. You can also look at the handheld under

dashboard. The first item in there is RPM and if you crank the

engine over you should show a RPM. If the screen goes o� it is low

cranking voltage to the red wire and if the RPM does not move

from zero its either the white wire loosing power or the blue wire

not receiving a tach input signal from your ignition.

0

Mark mosley

March 9, 2017

I have the fitech model 3002 on a small block ford , no matter how

many times I try to set the Inc steps, it still will only read zero. What

am I doing wrong? Also are you now using a vacuum hose on the

fuel pressure regulator? Thank you. M. Mosley


March 10, 2017

With the engine at operating temp and idling look at IAC steps. If

the are zero just back o� (counter clockwise) the throttle

adjustment screw until the steps come up between 3-10. If you

back o� the screw all the way and the engine is still idling fast you

have a vacuum leak.

Tim

March 10, 2017

0

cold starts having to hold the gas down before it will start. Also

when you shut o� the engine it will chug and turn over a few times.

Any suggestions??


March 11, 2017

check fault codes. Most likely there is something causing this like

the o2 sensor. You can also watch the AFR in dashboard to see

how rich or lean the engine is running.

John Bittenbinder

March 12, 2017

The system is installed in a 3.5 liter land rover. When I slow down

and unload the Motor by pushing in the clutch the engine stalls. This

happens hot or cold, AC on and o�. Thanks John

0


March 15, 2017

Follow the IAC step adjustment on this page and get the IAC

setting as close to 0 as possible with the engine not idling high.

Bill

March 13, 2017

I have installed the fitech 30002 on a 383 stroker. It starts up and

runs. I adjusted the iac . My problem is that it idles fine when you

first crank it. A�er it warms up, at idle, the engine shakes. It seems

like the longer you let it idle, the worse it gets. Revv it up and it

smooths out. Back to idle, it shakes. Does not try to die, but shakes.

Increased idle up to 1000, but still not smooth. When I had the

engine on a test stand running a carb I don’ t remember it having

any problems at idle.


March 17, 2017

0

Check for fault code and you may also try a di�erent idle AFR

target. Try leaning it out to around 14.2.

Mike

March 15, 2017

I’m running the 400hp with with the FCC on an Olds 350. Elsewhere,

I have read conflicting advice about which FPR should have vacuum

hooked up. In my case, should it be the EFI, or the FCC?


March 22, 2017

Per the instructions you hook up both.

0

Chad

March 15, 2017

Bryce

I’m trying to adjust my idle return and go to a negative number. ( my

engine doesn’t come back to idle quick enough) My problem is I

can’t seem to get to the negative number, it won’t let me go

negative. I’m following your directions but I. I must be doing

something wrong

Oh and by the way this site that I’m on really is helpful reading

through all the questions people have many have helped me

without me even turning to you guys for help all the time. Also the

fuel new manual fuel pump is keeping the command center running

as well. Thanks for that advice as well.

Appreciate your help


March 22, 2017

To lower the values in the handheld you can hit EDIT and select

the – (minus) sign and then the number you want or you can just

click le� or right on the joystick to increase or decrease the value.

0

tim

March 17, 2017

When I start my engine the screen on the hand held turns white and

I have to hold the button down to power it back up. I have my

positive wire hooked to the post on my alternator and the switched

positive hooked to the positive on my HEI distributor. Just

wondering if I’m might be getting power fluctuations during

cranking?


March 22, 2017

You NEED the red BATTERY wire hooked directly to the battery.

Tim

March 23, 2017

Thanks!! I hooked the wire directly to the battery and fixed the

problem. I have the 400hp system with command center in my

0

anywhere in between!! I did a youtube video on how easy it

was to install and posted it on the Corvette forum. Thanks for

making such a great, easy to install system!!!

Ralph Sembach

March 17, 2017

Idle Return topic- the engine is warmed up and the engine is stalled

say o� roading or key turn o� , when the engine starts, it starts at

too high of an RPM. Can the settings be adjusted to have the engine

start almost at idle? like a carb?


March 22, 2017

The EFI is making the engine start with a fast idle on purpose. If

you want to change this you need to adjust CRANKING IAC. If you

adjust this setting too far you will cause starting issues.

0

jared

March 18, 2017

i have a mean street 800hp setup and on the initial setup menu on

06 setting it doesnt have tach or 2wire+coil option, instead it has

pump pwm/fcc=40. is there a setting im missing? or might it be

cause im not using the power wire from the fitech to run my fuel

pump?


March 22, 2017

The tach input is for systems with timing control. The MEAN ST.

doesn’t have timing control so there is no need for that setting. If

you have a FUEL COMMAND CENTER you need to set Pump PWM

to 40.

Dave

March 18, 2017

0

I am getting popping on decel from cruise or hard accel. How can I

minimize this? 521 cu. in with Cam =3


March 21, 2017

Under decel the system shuts fuel o�. This is what is causing your

popping in the exhaust. If you check the FUEL CUT CONTROL so

that the setting of DECEL CUT MAP says 5 it will make the system

never cut fuel o� completely under decel.

Dave

March 21, 2017

Will I need to adjust DFCO fuel return since I won’t be going as

lean?

0


March 23, 2017

This setting changes the amount of fuel that is injected when

the system comes back into fueling from a decel. If you

turned decel o� this value no longer works.

Steve mizzi

March 18, 2017

I installed Fitch on my. 1968 mustang won’t start unless I used a

battery charger I have msd ignition


March 21, 2017

0

It sounds like a cranking voltage issue. Check the red wire for 12+

volts and it should be going directly to the battery positive post.

Also check your engine grounds.

Larry Goodman

March 20, 2017

what is idle pid


March 23, 2017

The Idle PID in the dashboard is really not needed for a reference

in tuning. We do use it sometimes for advanced diagnosis but

below is what PID means and it applies to IAC (Idle Air Control)

Steps.

A proportional–integral–derivative controller (PID controller) is a

control loop feedback mechanism. A PID controller continuously

calculates an error value {\displaystyle e(t)} e(t) as the di�erence

0

derivative terms.

Ed Frazier

March 21, 2017

hello. Is EFI sensitive to cam lobe separation? 108 vs. 114 ? it’s a

street / strip cam I’m looking for. thank you.


March 23, 2017

Cam Lobe separation has a direct a�ect to vacuum. EFI reads

vacuum as a meter for load. So Yes a wider separation is better for

fuel injection. There is a really good article from Hotrod Magazine

on this from about a month ago.

0

Skip striplin

March 22, 2017

I put an fitech kit on 5.3l ls motor it works fine when the engine is

cold it will burn the tires o� when it gets hot it won’t get out of its

own way it stalls it bogs it won’t pull up a hill


March 23, 2017

Check for fault codes in the EFI as well as put a fuel pressure

gauge on the fuel line to see if your issue is pressure related.

Josh wilkerson

March 24, 2017

0

I have a code of rpm noise. I have a mopar 440 big block with fuel

command center. Everything seems to work ok it is running a little

rough now. I have the blue wire hooked to the neg side of the coil

and the white wire to the ballast resistor. Any help is appreciated.


March 30, 2017

Fuel injection will not work with ballast resisted ignition system.

You will need to update your ignition to a 12 volt system.

Nick

March 27, 2017

Hi I have your 1200 hp on a big block Chevy and It has a surge and

runs real rough when you put it in gear and driving it at any rpm I

check for vacuum leaks there is none my Afrs are at the target where

they should be checked my plugwires all my electrical connections

can’t figure it out can’t hope uguys can help me with what’s going

on thanks

0


April 7, 2017

Check for fault codes. Surging idles is always caused by one of

two things. Vacuum leaks and RPM noise. The fault code section

is on the MAIN MENU is option 7 or 8.

Edward Mitchell

April 4, 2017

In the dashboard is a value for engine vacuum. It reads a -7 with a

value indicated as PSI. Is this the same as a 7 inch vacuum reading? I

set the initial parameters as a 2 in cam specs, should I reset this to a

3 and is it necessary to reinitialize the system or simply allow it to

learn?

0

Yes the -7 means inches of vacuum, furthermore if your reading

that low of vacuum at idle you need to have the cam selection on

4.

Terry

April 5, 2017

If I wack the throttle with the car in park it will cut o� a�er I let the

throttle go…I did the IAC Steps and at warm idle it bounces back

and forth from 0 to 4, is this correct? For cold and warm start up

issues do I add fuel to start up? How do I lower the amount of rpm

ramp up a�er start up? Thanks

Donnie- FiTech Tech

April 7, 2017

Yes you can add and or take away fuel from the “Crank Fuel”

under “crank and warm up” which is found in “go efi tuning”

0

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