finale liguria climbing guide

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The coronn.com team [email protected]

Act on Copyrightin Literary and Artistic WorksThe Ministry of Justice

March 1, 1996Stockholm(Act 1960:729, of December 30, 1960, as amended up to January 1, 1996).

CHAPTER 1.

Subject Matter and Scope

Article 1.Anyone who has created a literary or artistic work shall have copyright in that work, regardless of whether it is1. a fictional or descriptive representation in writing or speech,2. a computer program,3. a musical or dramatic work,4. a cinematographic work,5. a photographic work or another work of fine arts,6. a work of architecture or applied art,7. a work expressed in some other manner.Maps and other works of a descriptive nature executed as drawings, engravings, or in a three-dimensional form,shall be considered as literary works.

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NiceMonte-Carlo

Savona

Cuneo

AlbaSaluzzo

Carmagnola

Castellane

Grasse

MentonSan Remo

The climbing in Finale Ligure is very nice, on Limestone crags spreadin the area and some of them, as the Monte Sordo area, the la PareteDimenticata, Rocca di Corno, Rian Cornei and Val di Nava offers niceclimbing, beautiful nature, quite easy access and is recommended.Down in Finale Ligure you will find a sandy beach but drive in anydirection along the coast line and you will find longer and better beaches.Except climbing and bath Mountain Bike is popular in this area, with awide range of different alternatives of roads/tracks, and of course; don'tmiss the Italian charm, with fair days in the town, olive oil, red Vine andfriendly people.It is possible to climb during the whole year though the winter month,October to Mars, is a little bit unpredictable and you need to be thereduring a period with nice weather. The overall impression was that someof the crags correspond to the reputation of Finale as one of the top areasfor sport climbing, though some crags that was located near the highroadwas a disappointment (with hundreds of routes).

The area above the village Veravo, Bauso, is the older part of climbingcrags in Castelbianco. The most popular crags is the hard mostlyoverhanging Castelbianco, the brand new area of Terminal (2005-2006)and crags on the hillside behind the computer village Colletta. Most of theroutes in this area is developed during the last 4-5 years.

Situated near Finale Ligure the area has lot of visitors, and week endsduring winter you can meet many climbers from all over the world.

In the area you will find a lot of walking tracks, easy to find and offersbeautiful walks among terraces of olives and cherry trees, and the areaalso offers many historical buildings.The area offers for now almost 500 sport climbing routes.

coronn.com also publish Topos that covers the area South France and thearea Mediterranean Alps. Buy them at www.coronn.com.

The coastline in South West Italy, Liguria, offers many beautiful rock climbing spots.Finale Ligure has many routes (2000) in a small area. Nice crags and partly a niceenvironment have built the reputation as a rock climbing "Mecca".The area Castelbianco and the valley has a possibility to be developed to one of thebiggest sport climbing areas in Europe, but already offers very nice climbing in abeautiful valley.

Monaco/La TurbieLe Palais

La colle-sur-LoupVerdon

FranceItaly

Finale Ligure

Alassio

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Cannes

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How to find the areas:Finale Ligure is siuted some kilometres West ofSavona. The easy and fast road is highroad A10from West or East. Turn of the highroad in thedirection of Finale Ligure. See a detailed roadmap to find the crags.

The Castelbianco area is siuted near Albenga.Drive in the direction of Cisano sul Neva on roadP 582. After about 3 kilometres, in the villageMartinetto, turn left on to road SP 14 in the directionof Castelbianco, Nasino, Alto. Another 4 kilometresand you arrive in the Castelbianco area. See adetailed road map to find the crags.

Liguria, Road Map

Zuccarello

Erli

Castelvechio

Martinetto

Cisanosul Neva

NasinoAlto

Caprauna

Garessio

Ormea

Pontedi Nava

Nava

Pornassio

Leca

Campochiesa

Ceriale

Borghetto Sto Spirito

Pietra Ligure

Finale Ligure

Loano

Albenga

Castelbiancoarea

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P582

P453

Outlyingareas(crag 13-)

Crag 0

Download wallpapers andscreensavers from the area, freeat www.coronn.com

Visit www.coronn.com and seeour gallery of rock climbingpictures.

At the web site you can get moreinformation about each climbingarea and see a lot of picturesfrom each spot.

http://coronn.com

http://www.coronn.com/climbing_pictures/climbing_pictures.html

http://www.coronn.com/climbing_pictures/climbing_pictures.html

http://www.coronn.com/xtras/xtras.html

How you can use the Topos Symboles

Sunnycrag, oftenfacing South

Crag with little sun,often facing North,East or West orlocated in the shadow

Overhanging crag,protected from rain

1.2. Andonno, Paretino dell’ onda

South30 m. Multi Pitch 40 m.

© coronn.com

24

See 1.3.

Seerouteno. 601.4.

47,48 49

53525150 5755,

56 58

56

24. Spigolo Manolo-Dog 6a+,7a+

47. Viet 6b48. Platoon ?49. Ghillie Dhu 6c50. Zobra 6b51. Luna 6c

52. Alduino il druido 6c53. Grizzly 7a,7a+54. Acqua chiara 7a+55. Buon Anno 7b+56. Zero in Condotta 7b+57. Steston ?58. Tutto da rifare 8a59. Xy ?

5459

The Topos is published as a PDF and in the computer (or PDA, Cell-phone) you can take benefit ofthe possibilities that the program offer.

On the coronn.com sketches there is a lot of links to use as shortcuts to navigate in the document.In the left lower corner there is always links to Roadmaps or Key-maps (in case there are one).At the sketch itself, there is sometimes links to a detailed part of the crag or to the continuing partof the crag.

You can also use the Bookmarks, hidden in a vertical menu on the left side. From here you cannavigate directly to chosen area or to the crag you want to see.You can also use the Search function (has a binoculars as a symbol), write the name of the area, thecrag or even the route and the program will find it for you.

In some cases the links in coronn.com Topos leads you on the Internet to web sites where you canget more information.

Rock climbing is a dangerous sport. This Topos is not asubstitute for experience and proper judgement. We acceptno liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers,third parties, or property arising from use of the informationon this home page or on the TOPOS that are distributedfrom coronn.com.

coronn.comAddress:Via Aradolo 4a12010 Andonno (CN)ITALYemail:[email protected] Published 2007, January

mailto:[email protected]

Finale, Italy

How to find the crags:

At the coast between Nice in France and Genova inItaly you will find Finale Ligure. With 2000 sportclimbing routes on more than 20 major crags thisarea has established a reputation to be one of thebest in Europe.

See this road map to get the picture of the structureof the area, see details on each Topos.

First time visitor? coronn.com recommened cragsno. 1, 6,7, the Boragni part of crag 16 and crag 20.

Finale Ligure

Finalpia

Borgio Verezzi

Finalborgo

VerziLacremà

Boragni

Orco

Calice Ligure

Feglino

Calvisio

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1. Caprazoppa, Keymap

How to find the crag:

Drive from Finale Ligure in the direction of Pietra Ligure on road S.S.1. Turn left after2,5 km and follow the signes for Verezzi. Tutn right again on to the first road andcontinue 200 meters, then turn slightly right on to the small road “Via della Cornice”.At the hair paint, continue straight forward, pass the big car park and continue onthe gravelled road for about 200 meters. Park to the left on a big lay bay. Follow theroad and turn left on the track. After about 200 meters, just where two trees standson each side of the track, turn right on to a small track that leads you to 1.1. “IlCimitero”. Crag no. 2. has a long access and not very nice routes, the popular onesis 1.1. and 1.3.

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1.2

1.1

1.3

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1. Vaticano 6c 10. Flauto di vertebre 7a+2. Tostau 5c 11. Sacco d’ossa 7b+3. Un metro sotto 6b 12. Seppia grassa 6a+4. Tomba la Bomba 6c 13. Considerazioni di un distratto 6c5. Clic si gira 6a+ 14. The return of Jedi 6b6. Psicologica 6a 15. The dark side of the force 6b7. Ultima alba 6c+ 16. The Empire strikes back 6a+8. Easy to remember 7a9. Another day in Paradise 6c+

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1.1. Caprazoppa, Il cimitero

N 44 09.867´EO 08 19.470´

West20 m.

1. Mare 5c2. Ragnozzo 5a3. ? 6a4. Le notti di Sabba 6b5. Cippi lippa 5a6. Orizzonte 6c7. La casa del Peccato 6a8. ? 6a

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1.2. Caprazoppa, L’Orizzonte

West13 m.

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1. One step up 6b2. Presagio 6c3. Dom Perignon 6b+4. Parsifal 6a5. Amici della Erotica 6a+6. Il mercante di appigli 6a+7. Viola per poco 6a8. L’Oracolo Tibetano 5c9. La dolce fessura 6b10. Ti Abbandoni liberi le mani 6b11. Buon 6c12. Sentiero di Pietra 6c13. Utopia di un gesto ?14. Orizzonti verticali 6c+15. Azzo la marina 5c

16. MM (unstable blocks!!) 6a17. Sera ceno 5c18. Gioca astuto 6a19. Bel air 6a+20. Roberta lo spit dei 20 Anni 6a21. La Chiave 6a+22. Luna Piena 5a23. Il Mozzo 4a24. Azimut 4c25. I Piramidali di Cheope 5c26. Passagel 5a27. Dalai Lama 5b28. Pose inesplose 6b29. Polvere di sogno 7a+30. Tillerman 7a+..3

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1.3. Caprazoppa, Parsifal, Canazei and Pietra del sole

West15 m.

1. Cicino 6a2. ? 6a3. ? 5c4. Via degli urlatori 6a5. I diedri obliqui 5a6. ? ?7. Maddalena 5c8. Stringile piano 5a9. Stringile forte 6b

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Drive from Finale Ligure in the direction of Finalborgo and theentrance to the highroad. Turn left in the direction of Finalborgo,then turn left after the bridge (and before entering Finalborgo)and park at a public car park outside the Finalborgo (stadsmur).Walk back over the bridge, turn left and after 150 meters, crossthe road on to a “dirt road” and follow the track with tree redpoints mark. After about 15 minutes, turn right on to a smalltrack that leads to the crag. Long approach, not the bestclimbing and compared with other crags, not worth fighting for.

CastelS. Giovagni

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Finalborgo

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2. Rocce dell’Orera

East90 m.

1. Medcamalia 6b2. Sgrillettami 6a+3. Il Labirinto 6a4. ? ?5. ? 5+6. Cessule’ stu Casinu 6a7. Tira dritto furbacchione 6b

CastelS. Giovagni


Park at any of the public car park outside the old part ofFinalborgo. Enter the city and walk in the direction of theold Castle that you will see on a hill above the city. Justbefore you reach the Castle, in a hair pint, turn left on asmall track that leads to this track. The crag is located abovea Industrial estate, not beautiful, no nice climbing.

Finalborgo

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3. Paretina di Finalborgo

N 44 10.637´EO 08 19.420´

West20 m.

4. Rocca di Petri, Keymap for the South-West part


Drive from Finale Ligure in the direction of the highroad. Turn right in thedirection of Finalborgo and turn left before the city wall in the direction of CaliceLigure. To reach 4.1. and 4.2. Turn right in the direction of the Castle “Gavone”,continue until the road ends in a car park with two small gravelled road thatturns right. Follow the track to the crags (Il Grotto is a little bit tricky to get to,however, you will see it from the car park and would find it).For the rest of Rocca di Perti, drive in the direction of Calice Ligure, pass underthe highroad and turn right on a small road signed “Rocca di Perti”. Continueand park on a lay bay just beside the crag 4.4.

CastelGavone

DirectionFinalborgo

DirectionCalice Ligure

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4. Roadmap for the South-West and North part

4.3.

4.4.

4.5.4.6.

4.7.2.

4.7.1. 4.8.4.11.4.10.4.9.

4.11.

© coronn.com

1. Gradi 6c2. Gradini 6c3. Gradoni 7a4. Gradassi 7b5. Trumeau 7a6. Ganzaroldu 7b7. Gira vuelda 8a8. Caboni sesi... gei cantasa 8a+9. Silenzio ?10. Silenzio totale ?11. Arvuzie 7c12. Rustegu 7c+13. Commodino 7b14. Murzega 7c15. Sedia 6c

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59

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131211

CastelGavone

DirectionFinalborgo


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4.1. Rocca di Petri, Il Grotto

N 44 11.647´EO 08 18.844´

North30 m.

CastelGavone

DirectionFinalborgo

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76

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1. Avvelenata 7a2. Enola Gay 7b+3. Gibba (60 m.) 6a+4. Hiroshima 7a5. Variante ?6. Mas de Nada 6b+7. Via col vento (120 m.) 4c8. ? 5c9. Purchin (90 m.) 5b10. Bruja baracche (90 m.) 6a

7

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4.2. Rocca di Petri, Versante Nord

North25 m. Multi pitch up to 120 m.

2,31

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To the “Testa dellElefante”

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4.3. Rocca di Petri, Settore Settentrionale and Il Giardino

South-West40 m. Multi pitch up to 150 m.

Route names and grades on the next page

1. Lo Spigolo (150 m.) 3b2. Smaram (60 m.) 4c,5c3. Popotami e lebellule 4c,5c4. L’incredibile Hulk (100 m.) 4c,6b,6c5. Cure your jets 7a+6. Mariangela (120 m.) 5a,4c,5b,4c7. Fria 6b+,7a+8. Flavia (140 m.) 5b,5a,5b,6b+,5a,4c9. Scrapizza (60 m.) 7a,6c10. E.T. 6c11. Quae de munta’ 6b12. Diedro mesciulam (60 m.) 5c,4c13. Finale furioso 7a,6c14. Attimo fuggente 7a+15. Spit surf (60 m.) 6b,7a+16. Innuendo 7b17. L’altra faccia della Luna (120 m.) 6b,5+,5+,6a18. Chiodidi garofano (60 m.) 5c,5c19. Opus III 6a+20. Gold Finger (70 m.) 6a,6c21. Nadia (100 m.) 5,4c,6b,5a,4c22. Variante L1 of Nadia 6a+23. Provaci un pó 5c24. Coccolino 6a+25. ? ?26. Il vecchio (150 m.) 6a,4b,5c,5a,4c27. Quattro passi nel fantastico 5c28. Il Desiderio 6a+29. La coda del Drago 6b+

30. Forza d’Androide (70 m.) 5a,6a,6b31. ? ?32. Nicora (70 m.) 3c,5c33. L’ultimo Ringo (60 m.) 5b,5c,6a34. Saggio Yoda 5c35. Diedro obliquo (70 m.) 5c36. Carmen Russo (80 m.) 5c,5,6b37. Antica Osteria (80 m.) 5c38. Ambigua 6c39. C.T. 5c,5c40. Elena (110 m.) 6b+,6b,5c,6b41. Neurone Rosso 6a+42. La Gruviera 6b+43. Il ritorno di Jacko 5c44. Fuga da Alcatraz 6c45. Simonetta (150 m.) 3b,1,4b,4b,4b,4b46. Angela 6a47. Antonella 6a48. Variant of Simonetta 5b,6b49. Il Peppo 5b50. Classica 6a51. Zip 6c52. Jodio 131 6b53. ...poi capace 8a54. All’ incomincio 8a55. Via senza appigli ?56. Mr. Steel 8a57. Mariotta 7a58. Dacci 8a+

CastelGavone

DirectionFinalborgo


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4.3. Rocca di Petri, Settore Settentrionale and Il Giardino

Route names and grades

1. Pilastro Josephine (80 m.) 4b,6a,5b2. ? ?3. Mescal 6b4. SuperWalter 5c5. Istambul Hotel (80 m.) 5c+/A2,5c+/A1,5b6. Acciuga epilettica (70 m.) 6c,6b,6b7. Via dell’ Edera (50 m.) 6a+,5c8. Luisella (70 m.) 6a+,5c9. Belin statique, je suis content 7a10. Alba di giada 7a

11. Stringimi forte 6c+12. Barby 6b13. Via di tutti (80 m.) 5b,6a,5c,6b14. Notturno di Chopin (60 m.) 5c,6c+15. Chopin diretta 7a+16. Rockstore e i suoi fratelli 7a+17. Lemmings 5c18. Porkys 6a19. La Grattugia (80 m.) 6b+,5c20. Caracas ?21. Nonsolo 6c, ?22. Hueca solo 5c,8b23. Jan solo 7b

Settore L’Olimpo

24. Antiche storie 6b+25. Cuore selvaggio 6b26. Pelle di serpente 6c+27. Seppellite il mio cuore a Joshua Tree 7a+28. Gonchio 6c29. Placca a sonagli 6a30. Dr. Jeckil e Mr.Hyde 6b31. Tatti 6a+32. Tris 6c33. Super Tatti 7c34. Caramella 5c35. Super Bacci 6b+

See route 51 and52, 4.3.

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4.4. Rocca di Petri, Settore Centrale and L’Olimpo


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1. Il Pilastrino 5c2. Schifinix 6c3. Bar dei Negri 6a+4. ? ?5. Cric e croc 5+6. I Germogli 4c,4b7. Fessura della sperimentazione 5b8. Pulciolina ?9. Le Vie di Mr. Scheel? 6a+10. Tetto del Kaiser 6c

11. Fessura convalescent SRL 512. ? 6b13. O Palliano 6b14. Dramma al Cibali 6b+15. Adrenaline 6a16. Via dei Buconi 5a17. Bietole al burro 5+18. Via di Walter 5c19. Top Rope 5+20. Flebo 6a

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4.5. Rocca di Petri, Parete delle Gemme

N 44 11.497´EO 08 18.659´

South-West35 m.

1. Cris Cris 6a2. Scroc 6a3. Sly 6b4. Have a good day 6a+5. Nosce Te Ipsum 6b6. Balance 6a+7. Calami pure 7a

8. Octupus 6c+9. My friend Paul 6b+10. Grigio perla 6a+11. Serena 412. ? 5c13. Coure di panna 5b14. Pi. Na 5c

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Park on a lay bay justbeside crag 4.4. Continueon the road and in the firsthairpin bend, turn rightand follow the track to thiscrag.

© coronn.com

4.6. Rocca di Petri, Placca dell’ Oasi

N 44 11.335´EO 08 18.759´

South-West30 m.

© coronn.com

1. Bianche mani 7b+2. Spectrum 7c+3. I Sabipodi (90 m.) 4b,5b,6a4. Nakita 6c+,6a5. Resolriama (50 m.) 6b,6a+6. Freezer 6a7. Quo vadiz 6b8. Kleines Vergnugen 6a9. Muro del pianto (80 m.) 5c+,6a,6a10. Schermo splendente 6c+

11. Finalmente 6a+12. Oceano 6a,6a+,6b+13. Ti frugo nel frigo 6c14. Sublimazione 6c+15. Mamy Avvista 7b+16. Ghost 7a+17. Leo & Leo 6b+18. Saltapicchio 7a19. Duamila 6c20. Allegro ma non troppo (60 m.) 6b,421. Vacca treno 6a+22. Afghanistan bananistan 6a+

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4.7.1. Rocca di Petri, Ombre Blu


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23. Per Jessica 6a+24. Free Style 6a+25. Oddonett (70 m.) 5c,4+,5+26. Lo diceva neruda... 5c27. Menhir 6a28. Ombre Blu 6a+29. Griddonnett (60 m.) 6a,4b,5+30. Ci manda nicone 6b+31. Natiche frenetiche 6c+32. La pertuccia (45 m.) 6a+,6b33. Palaie City 6b34. ? 5+35. Le due generazioni (100 m.) 6a+,5b,5c36. Mephisto 6a+37. Via del Prof 5b38. I massicci della val taro 6b+39. Rockstore 7c40. Ercolino 7b41. Vista Mare ?42. Un Uomo un perche’ ?43. Lo Zoo e’ qui ?44.La lucertola e’ la migliore 6b+

© coronn.com

4.7.2. Rocca di Petri, Ombre Blu


© coronn.com

12. I Cuginetti (top rope) 513. La coda dell’Elefante (top rope) 514. Claudia Molina (top rope) 6a+15. L’Estate sta finendo (top rope) 5b16. I tuoi occhi 5c17. Edeltraud 6b18. Testa dell’Elefante 6c+19. Spigolissimo 7a20. Old Kiffer 6c

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1. ? ?2. Cattivi pensieri 6c3. Experience 6c+4. Nemesys 6b5. Muesli 6b+6. Prima che il gallo canti 7b

7. Flippaut 7a8. Aspettando Godot 6c9. Narciso e Boccadoro 6c10. Cardiopalma 6b+11. El Talisman 6a+

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4.8. Rocca di Petri, Pancia dell’ Elefante

South-West30 m.

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1. Argento vivo 5c2. Oro puro n.2 6b3. Oro puro n.1 6b4. Faccia di Bronzo 6b+5. L’Isola che non c’è 5c6. I nuovi Guerrieri 7b7. Pilastrino Marantonio 6c8. Piatto 5b9. La strega ?

10. Il Tamburo 6a,5c11. Danza Saracena 5c12. Grancassa 6a13. Diretta Saracena 6a+14. Topi di amore 5b,4c15. Cassulli 6a,5b+16. Incompresi 6a+,5b17. Uscita di sicurezza 518. Aspitta e spera 6c+,7a19. Pilier della concentrazione 6b,6b

20. Bio Mechanoid 6b21. Ex cruccovia ?22. Lingua ?23. Go Go 6c,7a+24. Florivana (60 m.) 5a,5b25. Casa e falesia (60 m.) 6a,6c26. Falesia in Casa 7a+27. Scherzi di Mandrake 6b+28. Barba Cai 6a29. Le paure di Lothar 6b

4.9. Rocca di Petri, Placca Piotti-Portale


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See 4.9.route 29

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30. Abat-Jour 6c31. Regina 6b32. Nun me Regghe chiù 7a33. Cento anch’Io 6c34. Mazz Art 6c,7a35. Baby Bomba 7a36. SuperPiotti 6b+37. Via Mario Piotti 6a,6b,4b

38. C’e’ nerentola? No, non c’e’ 6c39. Panierino Banane e... 7a,6b+40. Lupi dell’Ontario 6c41. ? 5b,5c42. Patty Smith 5+43. Diedro Ghersi (70 m.) 5b,5b,3b44. Mania 7a+

See 4.11.route 45

4.10. Rocca di Petri, Centrale


© coronn.com

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56 5857

47

45. Panda 6b+46. Mangu e Sting 6c47. Muccalla 6c48. Mangia per Vincere 7a49. Blu e notte 6b50. Giavas 6a,451. Passe Partout 6c+52. La cimice nel sacchetto 6a+53. Tic Tac 6a+64. Preistorici messaggi 6a55. Ah shiftare 6a56. Pow Wow 6b57. A mani a perti 6c+58. Arabesque 6a

ScimmiodromoFollow the track further to the right,pass the stone-quarry. You will find acrag with the following excellentroutes (from left to right);

1. Ombra 8b2. La danza dei Topi 7a+3. Tant... 7a4. El Giaguaro 7a+5. Sacrilegio 6b6. Maschio da nido 6a7. Donna di Tana 6b8. Come gli Schiavi 6b

4.11. Rocca di Petri, Destra Scimmiodromo


1417


Drive from Finale Ligure in the direction of thehighroad. Turn right in the direction ofFinalborgo and turn left before the city wall inthe direction of Calice Ligure. To reach 4.1.and 4.2. Turn right in the direction of the Castle“Gavone”, continue and pass the Church (theroad gets quite small here). A couple ofkilometres later you will see some nice houseswith high finish to the right, park and walk inbetween these houses to reach crag no. 5 or6.5.Continue to the end of the road to reach therest of these crags. See separate descriptionsabout each crag.

Finalborgo

4 5

6 7

6.1.

6.2.6.3.1.

6.3.2.

6.4.

6.5.

5.

© coronn.com

5 and 6. Monte Sordo and Placca delle Casa Valle, Keymap

1. ? ?2. Mototrapano 6a3. Giorni d’Aprile 5+4. Farinei d’La Brigna 6a5. ? ?6. Frenulo rotto 6c7. Elena Valentini 7a8. 37/60 6a9. 2 dita di rovescio 6a

10. Nonno pierino 5c11. Sandopilnsky 5c12. Stai sbagliando 6a13. La faina 6a14. Let’s get it up 6b+15. Ben Hur 6b+16. Nosferatu 6a17. Black Sabbath 6a+18. Requiem aeternam 5c


Drive from Finale Ligure in the direction of thehighroad. Turn right in the direction ofFinalborgo and turn left before the city wall inthe direction of Calice Ligure. To reach 4.1.and 4.2. Turn right in the direction of the Castle“Gavone”, continue and pass the Church (theroad gets quite small here). A couple ofkilometres later you will see some nice houseswith high finish to the right, park and walk inbetween these houses. After the house followthe marked track (three red spots). The trackpass on top of the crag, continue until youpassed it, then turn left in a T-junction andwalk around down to the crag.

© coronn.com

Finalborgo

4 5

6 7

2

3

1

4

7

6

5

98

10

1514

13

12

11

18

1716

5. Placca delle Casa Valle

N 44 11.662´EO 08 19.263´

West15 m.

© coronn.com

23,41

765

4

Finalborgo

4 5

6 7


Drive from Finale Ligure in the direction of thehighroad. Turn right in the direction ofFinalborgo and turn left before the city wall inthe direction of Calice Ligure. To reach 4.1.and 4.2. Turn right in the direction of the Castle“Gavone”, continue and pass the Church (theroad gets quite small here). Continue until thepublic road finish and park. Continue by footon a private road in the direction of the houses.Pass the houses and follow the road that nowturns sharp left. About 150 meters after youhave passed the last house, turn slightly righton to a wide track. After about 75 meters youmeet a T-junction just after a “dry” brook, turnright to reach Monte Sordo, continue straightforward about 50 meters and then find yourway to the right to reach this crag.

DirectionMonte SordoDirection

Pian Marino

1. Effetto sassofrasso 6a+2. Ringo Boys 6b+3. ? 5c4. Via del diedro 5c5. Pilastrino Mirovino 5c6. Maracana’ 6b7. ? 5c

6.1. Pilastrino Mirovino

West30 m.

© coronn.com

Finalborgo

4 5

6 7

DirectionPian Marino

6.1.

6.3.


Drive from Finale Ligure in the directionof the highroad. Turn right in the directionof Finalborgo and turn left before the citywall in the direction of Calice Ligure. Toreach 4.1. and 4.2. Turn right in thedirection of the Castle “Gavone”, continueand pass the Church (the road gets quitesmall here). Continue until the public roadfinish and park. Continue by foot on aprivate road in the direction of the houses.Pass the houses and follow the road thatnow turns sharp left. About 150 metersafter you have passed the last house,turn slightly right on to a wide track. Afterabout 75 meters you meet a T-junctionjust after a “dry” brook, turn right andcontinue 200-250 meters until you locateyourself just below the crag, then walkstraight up to it.

2 31

15

4

5 6,7,8,9

1098 11

141312

17,18

19

20,21

20

22

1. Mask 7b+2. Smanie del ghiro 5c3. Viaggio nel futuro 7c+4. Viaggio a Bombay 6c+5. Rilasso collasso 7a+6. Bombay 8a7. Hyaena 8b8. Dingo ?9. Apissima 6b

10. Diverso perverso 7b11. Esotica Erotica 7a+12. Zingaro silvano 6b13. Placca di mu 5+14. Caimano 6c+,6b15. Innocenti evasioni 6b+16. Papillon 6c+17. Placca di mu destra 6b,5c18. Felicetto cour contento 6a+19. Il flauto di pan 6a20. L’Incompiuta (needs gear) 4c,4c,4c21. Via dei nesci 4c,5c,4b22. Excalibur 4c,4c,4b

16

6.2. Monte Sordo Alveare e Placca di Mu

West, South-West30 m.

© coronn.com

2 3115,16

109811

14

1312

18

19,20

6 7

17

21

25

26

20

22

2324

16

4 5

27

302928

1. Gianpieratissimo Oh Oho Ohh 6b2. Pilastro Mattia 5c3. Il Gatto selvaggio 5,6a4. Estranea 7a5. Futura 6a,6b+6. Fessura Oliva 5b,6a,5c7. Fedeli alla Linea 7b,6b+8. Franco e Ketty 6b9. Giusy 6b+10. Introspezione elettrostatica 6b

11. L’Arco dei guaitechi 5c,5b12. Vedova Nera 6b+13. Venerdì 6b14. Placca delle Bimbe 6a,5b15. Livelli di biecaggine 5c16. Umma Gumma 6b+17. Sipario di Pietra 5b,5c18. Overdose 6b19. Lama Tagliente 6b,6b20. Pilastro sospeso 5+

21. L’Isola di giava 6b+22. Absidal 6a+23. I Meteopatici 6a+24. La tana dell’Anguilla 6b+25. Piperyta Patty 6c+26. Via normale 427. Sioula 6a28. Super Bostik 4c,5c29. ? 6a30. Mistero 4c,6a

Continue,see 6.3.2.

Finalborgo

4 5

6 7

6.3.1. Monte Sordo, Centrale

South, South-West35 m. Multi pitch up to 60 m.

© coronn.com

31 32,33

34

35

3637

38

39

40,

41

40

42

43 44

474645

4948

31. Il cammino di isengard 6a+32. La bella Eowin 5b,6a+33. Lo specchio di Galadriel 5c,6a34. L’Orchetto Zotichetto 6a+35. Out of Zucca 7a+36. Free - Tto misto 6c+37. Colite&Gaz-Trite 7a38. Schizzechea 7a39. Vivere di Rabbia 7b40. Bastante fanaticos 7a

41. Scheissegal 6b42. Game over 7a+43. Free Nelson Mandela 6b+44. Così la va 6a45. U can 6a46. Labirinth 6b+47. Strike 6b48. Be Bop a Lula 7b49. ? 6a

6.3.2. Monte Sordo, Lo Specchio


© coronn.com

1. Koala sugli avambracci (top rope) 6a+2. Toure Kunda 6a+3. Appiccicati! 6b+4. Blocca ciokoblocco 6a+5. Hard Coral (top rope) 6a+6. Greta Garbo 5+7. Antonio Menagazzo vien dal mare 6c+8. Peja 6b9. Orango stango 6c+

Finalborgo

4 5

6 7

23

1

6

4 5

87

9

6.4. Monte Sordo, I Coralli

N 44 11.806´EO 08 19.061´

West15 m.

To crag no. 5.

To crag no.7.

© coronn.com

6.5. La Parete Dimenticata, Keymap

6.5.1.

6.5.2.

6.5.3.

Finalborgo

4 5

6 7How to find the crag:

Drive from Finale Ligure in the direction of the highroad. Turn right inthe direction of Finalborgo and turn left before the city wall in the directionof Calice Ligure. To reach 4.1. and 4.2. Turn right in the direction of theCastle “Gavone”, continue and pass the Church (the road gets quitesmall here). Continue until the public road finish and park. Continue byfoot on a private road in the direction of the houses. Pass the housesand follow the road that now turns sharp left. About 150 meters afteryou have passed the last house, turn slightly right on to a wide track.After about 75 meters you meet a T-junction just after a “dry” brook, turnright and pass crag no. 6.2. to 6.4. to reach this crag.

2 31

64 5

15

10987

11121314

20191817162221

2324 2625

27

2928

3130

3332

34

35

3639

3837

Continue,see 6.5.2.

© coronn.com

6.5.1. La Parete Dimenticata

N 44 11.759´EO 08 19.173´

West30 m. Multi pitch up to 70 m.

© coronn.com

To crag no. 5.

To crag no. 7.

4041

1. Katanga 5c2. Cannolo alla Panna 5c3. Ten dur molla nen 6b4. La Brigna l’e sempre la Brigna 6a+5. U massacan da falesia 6a+6. Pimpiripettanuse 5c7. Raschiascogli 6a8. I conquistatori dell’Inutile 6b9. Fanfara Tulip 6b10. Progressive 7a11. Compagni di merende 6a+12. Ciro ci ripensa 5c13. Il conte ugolino 5c14. L’Amore e’ un attimo 5c15. La canna tra le mani 6b+16. Viaggio nel Bus del Gnao 5c17. Duchessa 5c18. I Pasticcioni 5c19. L’Altre Madre 6a20. Figa Mariuccia 6a+21. Bingo Bongo 6a22. Sandokan 6b23. Via del Petrolio (60 m.) 5b,4c24. I Fighetti del clan 6a+25. Friends 5c26. U Furestu 6a+27. Los Angeles 7a28. Controfobia (60 m.) 5b,5c29. Dateci una mano 6b30. Piacevolmente insensibili 6b31. Fa che duri 6a32. La spada di damocle 5c33. Capriccio diagonale (70 m.) 4b,5b,4c34. La voglia matta 6a+35. ? 6a,6a+36. Un minotauro in ballerine 7a37. Le corna non fan peso 7a+38. Figowitz 7a39. Mutabaruka 6b40. Scudo Grigio 6c+41. Spigolo dell’Etrusco 7a

6.5.2. La Parete Dimenticata

West18 m.

© coronn.com2

1

6

4

5

98

7

3

65

4

21 10

7 to 9


To find this spectacular open cave, enter the cavewhere you find route no. 36 and 37 on Topos 6.5.1.Follow the rope through the cave and you will enterthis crag from bellow. You can also abseil into it.

1. ? 6a+2. El Diablo 7b3. Mosaiko 7c+4. ? ?5. Per uscire dalle tenebre 6c+6. Rank Xerox 6c+7. Camera con vista 7a8. Bombolo 6b9. Shokada 6b10. Lubna 7b

6.5.3. Grotta dell’Edera

25 m.

© coronn.com

1. ? ?2. Rio Gammas 6b+3. Meteora 6b+4. Synth é tique 5c5. Visage 4b6. Olivella 6b7. La pulce nera 6b8. Render vous avec le vol 6c+9. Grogio relativo 6b10. La linea d’ombra 6b+11. Super goccia 6a


Drive from Finale Ligure in the direction of the highroad. Turn right in the direction ofFinalborgo and turn left before the city wall in the direction of Calice Ligure.Turn right in the direction of the Castle “Gavone”, continue and pass theChurch (the road gets quite small here). A couple of kilometres later youwill see some nice houses with high finish to the right, park and walkin between these houses. After thehouse follow the marked track(three red spots), pass cragno. 5 and continue to the crest.Turn left in the cross on to asmall track that leadsto this crag.

2

1

6

4 5

87

3

1110

9

Finalborgo

4 5

6 78

11

100 m.

Ruin

6.6.

7.

5.

To cragno. 8.

To cragno. 11.

6.6. Antri Rossi

N 44 11.753´EO 08 19.255´

South25 m.

2,3

1

6

45

8,9

7

1110

1413

15 17

16 181920

21

2322 24

3

9

12

© coronn.com

1. Le mie fragole ?2. Brutto anatroccolo 6b+3. Valle Argentina 6c4. Due Calzini 6b+5. Inviata speciale 5c6. Petit four 5c7. Albi (80 m.) 4,6a,5b8. Tifone 7a9. Ciclone 7b10. Ti voclio 6c11. Dubbio 6a,6a12. Il senso del dovere 6a+13. ? 5c14. Panico e salamico 6b+15. Anciua 6c+16. Canvaria ?17. Pilastro della regina 5c18. Festa del lavoro 7a19. Il Buco nero 6c+20. Al di là del Mare 6c21. Imagine (70 m.) 6a+,5+,6b22. False promesse 6b+23. Fessurina 6b24. Katana 7a+

Continue,see 7.2.

7.1. Bric Scimarco

East40 m. Multi pitch up to 80 m.

© coronn.com

25. Mikroba 7b26. Mitica 6c27. Raggi Cosmici 7a+28. Via del traverso (90 m.) 5c,6b,5c29. Il diritto 7a+30. Stefano Cuneo (70 m.) 6b+,6b,5c31. Pietra stregata 6b+32. Cengia allegra 7a33. Dita da cani 6c34. Alapaga 7a+35. Mix mas Ala 7c36. Orbita Quadrada 7a37. Afa letale 6c38. Tutti questi 6c39. Hyperzot 7a40. Ghenaelle (80 m.) 5c,6b,441. Il Cinghiale (60 m.) 5b,5c42. Mirada 6c43. Bauhaus (80 m.) 6a+,6a+,6a44. Uccidi lo Schnzauzer 6a45. The cure 6b+46. Macabrus 7a47. Tenedo’ (45 m.) 6a,5c48. Pilastro del re (60 m.) 6a,5c49. Bronsky beat (50 m.) 6a+,6c

2827

3033

3231

3534 36,

37

3839

41404342

45

44

4648,4947

29

2625

Finalborgo

4 5

6 78

11

7.2. Bric Scimarco


© coronn.com

Finalborgo

4 5

6 7

100 m.

Ruin

6.6.

7.

5.

8

11

To cragno. 11.

1. Devastavo 6c2. Il blasfemo 7a3. La cattiva strada 6a4. Simpatico... 6b5. Piera sei sincera 6b6. Fuck Totum 7a+7. Attila 7a

21

6

4

5 7

350 meters


Drive from Finale Ligure in the direction of the highroad.Turn right in the direction of Finalborgo and continuethrough the town on small roads. Follow signposts forFeglino. Just before a T-junction (the road to Orco and theRefuge) you will find a “Agriturismo” farm house on theleft side of the road. Park here, cross the small bridge andfollow the track for 20 minutes to find this crag. It is alsopossible to reach this crag from the next valley, then followthe description that you find for crag 6.6.

8. S. Antonio

N 44 11.703´EO 08 19.281´

North-East30 m.

© coronn.com

21

3

98765

4 10 11

1312

1415

1716

18

19

2120

1. Ma non c’e’ sul libro 6a+2. No friends 6a+3. Brutta 34. Merlo di Nottingham 45. A.A.A. Fessura cercasi 5b6. Equinox 5c7. Calma e gesso 4c8. Sgorby superpall 5b9. La Rovere 5c10. Natta natta chiudi la patta 5c11. Roxy Bar 6a12. Gemelli Ribelli 5+

22 and 23

13. Gemelli Bivicchini 5+14. ? 5b15. Il rientro dei Maghi 6b16. Der heilige flat 6c17. I Gioielli di Val 6a18. Spit and Love 5+19. Come vuoi 6a20. Pet’s Shop Boys 5c21. Stranger 6b20 meters to the right;22. Children 4b23. Goriamatic 5c

To crag no. 10

Continue by foot on a private road in the direction of the houses. Pass the houses and follow theroad that now turns sharp left. About 150 meters after you have passed the last house, turn slightlyright on to a wide track. After about 75 meters you meet a T-junction just after a “dry” brook, continuestraight forward and pass the big open grass meadows and turn right on a wide track to the crag.


Drive from Finale Ligure in the directionof the highroad. Turn right in thedirection of Finalborgo and turn leftbefore the city wall in the direction ofCalice Ligure. To reach 4.1. and 4.2.Turn right in the direction of the Castle“Gavone”, continue and pass theChurch (the road gets quite small here).Continue until the public road finishand park.

Finalborgo

4 5

6 7

8

9

10

12

11

13

9. Paretina di Pian Marino

N 44 12.359´EO 08 19.020´

West, North-East25 m.

© coronn.com

10. Bric del Frate, Keymap


Drive from Finale Ligure in the direction of the highroad. Turnright in the direction of Finalborgo and continue through thetown on small roads. Follow signposts for Feglino.Just before a T-junction (the road to Orco and the Refuge) youwill find a “Agriturismo” farm house on the left side of the road.Park here or at a lay-bay near the T-junction. Continue on theroad in the direction of Feglino. About 150 meters after youhave passed the T-junction (Orco) you will find a clay-coveredroad to the left. Follow this. To reach 10.1. and 10.2. leave theroad and follow the track in the direction of the crags, to reach10.3 to 10.5., follow the road until you reach the crag (10.5. islocated after the crest, on the North-West side of this crag.)Continue on the track if you want to reach crag no. 9. from thisside.

Finalborgo

4 5

6 7

8

9

10

12

11

13

Continue toreach 10.5.

10.4.

10.3.

10.2.

10.1.

© coronn.com

2

1

39

87

654

101112

13

1. Guerre lontane 6b+2. Dedalo 6a3. Le balene possono stare sedute 7a4. Banditi 5c5. ? 4c,5b6. Sometimes knocks 6b7. Tensoplast 6b+8. Normale alla Caffettiera 6a9. Sveltina 7a10. Esperando d’Escobar 6c11. Me retruevo a fornigar 6c12. Pannocchie 5b13. Peppineu 6b+

10.1. Bric del Frate Parete dell’Aquila and Caffettiera

North-East25 m. Multi pitch up to 35 m.

© coronn.com

21

3

65

4

7 Continue toreach 10.5.

10.4.

10.3.

1. La rabbia negli occhi 7a+2. Cielo duro 6c3. Pilastro Ivana (60 m.) 6b,6a4. Diedro Peloso (70 m.) 5b,5c+,5b5. Diretta dei cogoletesi (40 m.) 6a,6b6. Via degli apprendisti (80 m.) 5c,5b,6b7. Lo Scorpione (90 m.) 5c,4b,5b

10.2. Bric del Frate Settore Sinistro


© coronn.com

21 3,4

87

6

5

4 9 10 11

Continue

13

12

1. Cielo Cadente (80 m.) 2,6b,6a+2. Luce di venere 6c+3. Cortamadura (60 m.) 6a,6b4. Giobetta (40 m.) 6c,6a5. Francesca (70 m.) 4c,6a,5c6. Un Anno fa 7a7. Sto acciso che guai 6b8. Maestri di sogni impossibili (50 m.) 6b+,6c+9. Khomeini 6a10. Apollo 6c11. Moonlight drive 6a+12. Eisloch 6a13. Windjammer 6b

10.3. Bric del Frate, Centrale

N 44 12.394´EO 08 19.064´

North, North-East30 m. Multi pitch up to 80 m.

© coronn.com

14

17

15,16

18

19222120

27

25,26

23 24

Continue

14. Piccola gemma 6b+15. Impeto e assalto 7a16. Vita veloce 6b+17. Ideal standard 6a+18. Le spine 6a19. Via a Cordini ?20. Maturi e contenti 5c

21. Stocastic emotion 6a22. Variante Caotica 6a23. Komm mit 7a24. Kurzer moment 7a+25. Momenti perduti nel tempo 7a26. Peperon sublime 6a+27. Im eiltempo 6b

10.4. Bric del Frate Settore Destro Nord

North-East25 m.

© coronn.com

28,29

30 31

3534

32,33

3938373640

4243 44

45

46,47

4849

28. Turbo lenta 6b29. No pint hope 5c30. Easy livin 6b31. ? 5c32. Finale on the rocks 6b33. Streetfighter 6b34. Ansioline e salivette 6a+35. Pippo fa la Pizza 6c36. Patchwork 5c37. Tra una e l’Altra 6b38. Aladino 6b+

39. ? 6a40. Virus 7a+41. Einsturzende neubauten 7a42. Cacao meravigliao 6b43. Es geht los 6a+44. Indietro tutta 6b45. Macla 6b+46. Io chiodo, tu scali, Lui degrada 6a47. Miss K la PP 5c48. Voglia gialla 6b+49. Steingarten 6c+

41

50 m.

About 250 m. to crag no.9, Pian Marino

10.5. Bric del Frate, Settore Destro Ovest

N 44 12.415´EO 08 18.998´

West, North-West25 m.

© coronn.com

11. Valle Aquila, Keymap


Drive from Finale Ligure in the directionof the highroad. Turn right in thedirection of Finalborgo and continuethrough the town on small roads.Follow signposts for Feglino.Just before a T-junction (the road toOrco and the Refuge) you will find a“Agriturismo” farm house on the leftside of the road. Park here or at a lay-bay near the T-junction. Cross thesmall bridge and pass the farm houseand continue on the track to thesecrags. To the left, if you pass 11.1.(Tre Frati) the track will lead you to cragno. 7 and 8.

1

Finalborgo

4 5

6 7

8

9

10

1211

13

11.1.

11.2.

11.3.

11.4.

To crag no. 7

© coronn.com

21

3

654

78

9 and 10

1. Liegestuhl 6c2. Buon Compleanno 6a3. Sonnenuhr 6a+4. Take it easy 5b5. Der schein trust 6a+6. Video 6c7. Dito nel Sonno 6b8. Mittelnaht 6a9. Normale 5c10. Starlight 6c

Finalborgo

4 5

6 7

8

9

10

12

11

13

11.1. Tre frati

East20 m.

© coronn.com

21

3 6

7 8 11109

12

13

14171615

20

1918

21

22

233130292827262524

33

32

3534

5

1. Spit fobia 6b+,6b2. La Luna 6b3. Esatto 7a4. E’ qui la festa 5b5. C’e’ da spostare una macchina 7b6. Bongo 7a7. ? 5c8. ? 5c9. ? 6a+10. ? 6a+11. ? 6a12. ? 5c

13. ? 6a14. Play dance 7a15. I dubbi dello schiavo del tempo 6c16. Tempi supplementari 6c17. Fiaba d’Autunno 6b+18. Appuntamento con venere 7a19. La cimice in mutande 7a20. S’Allonger 6c21. Le paure di un videocitifono 7b22. Sperone del cinquantenario (80m.) 5c23. Balla 6c24. Bella 6b+

1

422

25. Bulla 6b26. Bolla 6c27. La Babbiona 7b28. Apollo 6c29. Apelle 7a30. L’Occasione fa l’Uomo Ragno 7a,7a31. Palla 7b32. Pollo ?33. ? 6a+34. ? 7b35. Belgarath 8b

Finalborgo

4 5

6 7

8

9

10

12

11

13

11.2. Bric Grigip


© coronn.com

21

3

6

5

4

78

10

9

14

1312

11

15

1. Colpo di testa 7b2. Grazia 6b3. Black love 6b+4. La contessa 7a5. Fragile 6c6. C’Est la ouate 7a+7. Splendida 7a8. Disidratazione 7b9. Alienazioni mentali 7b10. Per aspera ad Astra 7a11. La Cavalcata delle Walkirie 7a12. Diedro incompreso 6a13. Samarcanda 6c+14. Mater tenebrarum 6b+15. Baby Killer 6b+

Finalborgo

4 5

6 7

8

9

10

1211

13

11.3. Kattedrale

East25 m.

© coronn.com

2

1

3

654

78

10

9

12

11

131. Vita impossibile 6a2. Espiazione 7b3. Gita al Lago 6c4. Dolce torpore 6c+5. Chi non muore si rivede 6a6. Piccolo `Ea´ 6c7. L’Uomo pesante 6c+

8. Vamos al Pepita 6b9. Lo Sfratto 6a+10. Cece 6a+11. Mamy Puo’ Salire 6a12. Anche dodo 6b13. ? 6a+

11.4. Sakrestia

East15 m.

© coronn.com

12. Valle Aquila (East side) and 13. Bric Pianarella, Keymap


Drive from Finale Ligure in thedirection of the highroad. Turn right in the direction of Finalborgo and continue through the town on small roads. Followsignposts for Feglino. Just before a T-junction (the road to Orco and the Refuge) you will find a “Agriturismo” farm house on the left side ofthe road. Park here and follow the track to reach the crags 12.1. to 12.3. To reach 12.4., continue in the direction of Feglino and turn righton to a track after about 50 m.To reach crag no. 13; Turn right in the T-junction in the direction of Orco. The road turns right and in the next bend to the left you will see astone-quarry. Park here and follow the road that leads up to a “Agriturismo” (tourist farm house). Continue on the tracks to the crag. To reach13.3. you continue from the last sector of Monte Cucco (30-40 minutes).

Finalborgo

4 5

6 7

8

9

10

1211

13

12.1.

12.2.

12.3.

12.4.

13.1.13.2.

13.3.

DirectionMonte Cucco

Directioncrag no.11

DirectionOrco

DirectionFinalborgo

DirectionFeglino

P

P

P

P

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6

7

109811

1213

14 15 16

17

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19

2021

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2627

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33

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See 12.2.

See 12.3.

Route name andgrade - see nextpage

12.1. Bric Pianarella

West20 m. Multi pitchup to 250 m.

See photoToposnext page

12

3 4,5

6

7

109811

12

13

14 15 16

17

18

19

2021

22

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2728 29 30

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33

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See 12.2.

See 12.3.

Route name andgrade - afterdetailed photos

12.1. Bric Pianarella

West20 m. Multi pitchup to 250 m.

© coronn.com

36,37

35

3839

37

1. Tetto building 6b+2. L’Autunno dei Moicani (150 m.) 5c,6a,5b,4c,5b,5b3. Big foot 6a+4. Antro vergognoso (80 m.) 6a+,6b,7a5. Fivy (120 m.) 5c,6a+,4+,6a,5b6. L’Incertezza (60 m.) 6c+,7b,6a+7. Amico con L’Ombrello (80 m.)5b,6b,6a+8. Ditelo con i flap 6b+9. Margherita 6b+10. Follie Notturne 6b+11. Il Triangolo 6a12. Slash (80 m.) 6b+,6b,6c13. Gli Svenimenti di squappa 6b+14. Vaccari (240 m.) 3c,5b,3b,5b,?,5b,6b,

6a, 6a+,4,5b,4b15. Menti perdute (210 m.) 5b,6b+,6a+,5a,6a+,

6c,6a,6c16. Catarifrangente (200 m.) 5b,5b, 5b, 6b,5c,5c, 6c,6c,6c+17. Pantera Rosa (80 m.) 6c,5c18. Gianni Pajer (250 m.) 6a,5c,5c,5b,7b,6a,6b,4+19. Non ci resta che piangere (100 m.) 6b,7a+,6c20. @ (at) (100 m.) 7b21. Joe Falchetto (240 m.) 6c,6a,6c,6a,7a,6a+,

7a,5c22. Calcagni (240 m.) 3b,5c,6a,6c,5c,6a,5b,5b23. Mio Nome (240 m.) 6c/A224. Impedimento sterico (240 m.) 3c,5c/A0,5c/A0,5/A0,

5/A0,5/A1,6a/A1,5c,?25. Grimonett (240 m.) 5c,5b,5b,5c,5+,6b,6b26. Gni (200 m.) 5c,6c,4c,5b,6c+,6a+,

6c+,6b+,5b

27. I.N.P.S. (200 m.) 4c,6b,5a,5c,6a,6a+,6a,6a,5

28. Amicizia (200 m. ) 6c,6a+,4c,5b,6a,5b,6b+,5b

29. Tempio della Gioventu’ Psichica (180 m.) 6b,7a,6c,7a,6b+,6c+,6b+30. ? ?31. Paperino (180 m.) 6a,6a+,6a+,6a+,4c,6a+,

5c/A1,6a+32. Via lunga (240 m.) 3c,4b,5b,4c,4c,3b,4a,5b33. Variante di sinistra 6a+,6a34. Variante di destra 6a

35. ? ?36. Non pensarci due volte 8b37. Senza chiedere permesso 8c38. Universo proibito 8a39. Evocazioni 6c+

12.2. I Missili

North25 m.

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1. indiragandi ce l’ha grandi 6a+2. Scuola di pulizia 6a+3. L’Associale 6b+4. Ghiri moderni 6b+5. Osteria del Pirata 6b6. Realta’ Colorata 6c+7. Dissoluzione Psichica 7b8. Nevrotica 7b+9. Psycho 8a10. ...e le stelle stanno a guardare 7a+11. Occhi 7a11. (direct) 7b

1. iIguana 6c2. Zamba pa Ti 7a3. Scaramouche 7b4. La volpe Azzurra 7b+5. La pietra dello scandalo 7c+6. Lavori in corso 7a+

12.3. La Mansarda12.4. Il Sasso

North25 m.

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16,17,19

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1. Steady state (75 m.) 6a,6c,6a+,7a2. Superplacca (75 m.) 6b,7a,6b+,7c+3. Paprica 7c4. Cloto (80 m.) 6c+,6b+,7a5. Superpanza (100 m.) 4b,6b+,5,6a+6. Vuoto a perdere (90 m.) 5c,6c+,6c,6b7. Tip Tap per Giovanna 6a+8. Legati per la vita 5c9. ? 6a+10. ? 7a+11. baobab pret a Porter 7b+12. Foca Ridens 6b+13. ? 6b14. ? 5c15. Asterix (40 m.) 6a,6a16. Libera Nos (100 m.) 5c,5b,5b,5b,517. Crucefix (70 m.) 5c,5c,6b18. Placca di Shan-Gri-La 6b+19. Placca di Shan-Gri-La 5c,5c,6a+20. Paola, Daniela e le altre (150 m.) 5b,5b,6a,5b,5c

19

13.1. Bric Spaventaggi Superpanza


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1. Edith 6b2. Pippi 6a+3. Il falchetto picchietto e il mangiatore di mosche 3b,6a,3b,4a4. Deciso e preciso 6b+5. Cocoon 6b+6. Maga Magu’ 6b7. Apile dolce dormire 5c8. Materia grigia 6a+9. Fuga di 1/2 giorno 6a10. Il Gatto e la Volpe 6a+11. Portaci a Berna 6c12. ? 5,6a13. Grazie lo stesso 6a14. Mylu’ 7a15. Jazz Blues fusion 6b16. Ra Perbureira 6b+

13.2. Bric Spaventaggi Placca dei Maleducati


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21 64 5 83 7 1514131110 129 16 20191817

1. Bazar dei sogni 7a2. L’Ultima Luna d’Autunno 7b3. Il tradimento di Gobetti 4c4. Nel cofano... e per sempre 6a5. Salto nel tempo 6b6. Solitudine 6a7. Ponti di Bactabul/Fumo nero 7a8. Cannelure 6b+10. Ponti sull’Infinito 6c

11. Vagabondo 6c+12. Non Arrenderti 5b13. Khumjung 5c14. Il respiro del tempo 7a15. Thai 6a+16. Piantala Kuty 6a17. La Cosa 6a18. Attrazione fatale 6b19. Sveltina 6b+20. ? 5c

13.3. Bric Spaventaggi Attico

West15 m.

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14. Monte Cucco, Keymap

P

P&WC

PDirection

Orco

DirectionFinale Ligure


Drive from Finale Ligure inthe direction of the highroad.Turn right in the direction ofFinalborgo and continuethrough the town on smallroads. Follow signposts forFeglino. In a T-junction, turnright in the direction of Orco.Before Orco you will pass a“Rifugio”. Just at theopposite side of the road asmall road leads up to goodcar parks with Toilets,shower and good tracks tothe different sectors ofMonte Cucco.

Boragni

OrcoFeglino

10

13

14

15

16

17

18

14.1.

14.1.

14.2.

14.3.

14.4.

14.6.

14.5.

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1. Via della Caverna (100 m.) 4c,A2,3,5b/A12. ? ?3. ? ?4. grottendach 6c+5. Re di chia ?6. Sauta 7b7. La Modifica 7a8. Mario Valentini 5c9. ? ?10. ? ?11. Parigi 7c12. Vienna (50 m.) 8a,8a13. ? 6b+14. Specchi riflessi 7c+15. Si che non sei Tu 8a+16. Lang in putrefaction (55 m.) 6a+,7c17. Mentadent plus (40 m.) 7a,7a18. Turisti del vuoto 6b19. Fessura dei Piacentini (needs gear)6a19a. Waiting for the beer (needs gear) 6b

A small crag on the left side of the track on the wayto this sector offers 3 routes;

Cambio d’Anni 6aLe Ansie di Silvia 7aNewjahrsangel 6a

14.2.

14.1. Monte Cucco, Settore Orientaleo della Caverna

N 44 12.846´EO 08 19.980´

North-West30 m. Multi pitch up to 100 m.

20,21

2223

24

25,26

26

20

27,28

27

2930 31

32

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4041,42

43

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45 47,48

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5251

51

53

54 55,56

55

57

See route58, 14.2.2.

14.1.

20. Quasimodo 6c21. Viulard 7c+22. Gattopardo 7c+23. Panino al Prosciutto 6a24. Il Ballista 6c+25. Enrico IV 6b26. Mantra of Casualness 6b27. Serenella 6b28. Folle attrazione 6a29. Proiezione ascendente 6b+30. Ecnaton 6a+31. La Torre (60 m.) 5c,5c32. Moby Dick 5c33. Variante Che Guevara 5c34. Mani d’Oro (60 m.) 6a,5c35. Diedro Canale 336. Luis 3c37. Miguel (60 m.) 4b38. Luc (60 m.) 439. Banana Spit (70 m.) 6c+,7a,6b40. Banana stranna 7c+41. Specchio per le allodole 7b42. Adele (70 m.) 7a,6b43. Bull Dog 6a+44. Grillomania 6a45. Radical Chic 8a46. Moon runner 7c47. Occho dolci per Frank Zappa 7b48. Diretta a Frank Zappa 7b+49. È tempo di sognare 7a50. Aspettando il Sole (80 m.) 6b,6b+,6c+51. Per colpa di chi (60 m.) 6b+,6c52. La Linea che non c’e’ 6c+53. Mimi e Clown (70 m.) 6c,6c+,6c+54. Flash Katmandu 6c55. Mimi’ e coco’ 6a56. Variante Bassa 5c57. L’Ultima avventura 6c

Descend

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14.2.1. Monte Cucco, La Torre and left part of Centrale

North-West40 m. Multi pitch up to 80 m.

© coronn.com

14.3.

58

59

60

See route57, 14.2.1.

Walk down and descend in theCanyon, see 14.3.

61,62

64

58

63

6566

67,68

69

7472,7371

70

73

75 7877

76

79,80

79

81

8283 84

85 87

86

8889

90

91

58. Il Tetto (80 m.) 5c,6b,6a59. Diretta al Tetto (70 m.) 6b,4a,5c60. Le Toit 7a61. Vecchi grilli 6a62. Collaborazione (70 m.) 5b63. Brancaleone 6a64. Effetto Notte 6a+65. Soft cell 6c+66. Il muro di Berlino (80 m.) 6b,6b,6a+67. Via di Lì (60 m.) 6a,5c,4b68. La pulce (80 m.) 5c,4c,4c69. L’Alpino (60 m.) 6a,4b70. Via di Là 6b71. Bianco e Nero 6b+72. Zone Pelviche 6a73. Mi dica bravucci 6a74. Training sisters 6a+75. Kamasutra 7b+76. Corpus Domini (100 m.) 6b,3b,4b77. Toccata e fuga 6a78. Bucce d’Arancia 6b+79. Opti-Matti (needs gear) 6a80. Il Gufo (100 m.) 5b,3b,4b81. Souvenir de Buoux 7b82. Top Gun 6a+83. Satori (80 m.) 6a,6a+,5b84. Il Circo (60 m.) 6a,6b,5b85. Ta-Kol 7b86. Ciscranna 6a87. Cocaine 6b88. Putacaso vi servisse un bigolo 6a89. Via degli Allievi (50 m.) 6a,5b90. Vecchia Volpe 6a91. ? 6a+

14.2.2. Monte Cucco, Settore Centrale

West, North-West40 m. Multi pitch up to 100 m.

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83 7

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17

15

1413

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2423

2221

2625

27

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3433

32313029

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37

14.2.2.

14.2.2.

Sight seeingspot.

1. Prima che sia troppo tardi 5c2. Il Mago 5c3. Vai Rouge 6a+4. This Sfiga is proprio cronix 6b5. ? 6a6. Abendrop 6a7. La vie en Ros...Y 6b8. Mi prende male 5b9. Senza una lacrima 6a+10. Cotica 6b11. La Signora delle vallate dagli occhi tristi 6c12. Steinhat sthet her 5c13. Tendinix 7a+14. Vivo da Re 6b15. Ultissima 8a16. Diretta super cyclisme ?17. Super cyclisme 7c

18. Elvis the pelvis 6a19. Rein ne va plus 5c20. La Donna Vera 5c21. Polvere di Stelle 6c+

22. Triumvirat 6b+23. Variante a Triumvirat 7a24. Metallica 6c25. Another swing 6a+26. Buchetti 5c27. Ronchionissima 6a28. Ester Pester 6b29. ? ?

30. Scene di panico 6c+31. Dottor Sottile 7a32. Technicolor 6c33. Non capisco ma mi adeguo 6b+

34. Jamin-a 6a+35. Pupe e Pepite 6b+36. Strano ma vero 6c37. Kinderspiel 5c

14.3. Monte Cucco, Il Canyon

20 m.

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14.5.

14.6.

2

1

4,7 8

3

119 1018

16

1312

3938

65

7

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2019

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1722

262524

27

333231

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51

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45

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59 60

61

To14.2.2.

Route names andgrades, next page

12a

Descend in theCanyon, see 14.3.

14.4. Monte Cucco, Fenia and Anfiteatro

West, North-West40 m. Multi pitch up to 100 m.

14.4. Monte Cucco, Fenia and Anfiteatro

Route names and grades

© coronn.com

1. ? 6a2. Angelino Primitiv ?3. Angoscia di velluto 6c+4. Davide e Golia 6b,7a5. ? 7a6. Gaudì 7b7. Maniac 7c8. Microtest 7a+9. Tanti Auguri 6c10. Master of Bolts 7a+11. Satanasso 7a12. Fabiozzi subisce ancora 5c12a. For Hannah (boulder) 7a+13. Rischia i Raschia 5b14. Waterfall 7a15. 4 WD 7a16. 10 HP 6a+17. Turbo Diesel 7a18. Baci da Rio 7a19. Senza Gemelli 7a20. Ubrecche 6c+21. Coconut 6c22. Fitzcarraldo 6b+23. Mura di Anagor (90 m.) 5c,6b,6c24. Anche gli Angeli mangiano i Fagioli 6a+25. E trovi il Grigio (50 m.) 6b,6c26. Dobermann 6a27. Variante Bassa a Supervit (needs gear) 5b,5b28. Joe 6a+29. Siringa Giuliva 5c30. Fame d’Erba 5c

31. Thriller (50 m.) 6a,6c32. Emanuela 5c33. Greetings from Frankenjura 6a+34. Power of Love 6a+35. Supervit (100 m.) 5b,6b+,6b,4b36. Gran Finale 7a+37. Stravolgimento progressivo (70 m.) 6b,6a+,438. Ultima Via 6c39. Il Pittore 5c40. Prillipoom 6c+,6a+41. Ottico (60 m.) 6a,5c,6a42. Zambarinik 6b,6c43. Let’ go Joppin 7a+44. Anthydral 6a+45. Mai piú (70 m.) 6b,5b,5c,6a,5c46. Diedro Rosso (needs gear) 5c,5b,447. Fachirella 7a48. Andate via 6b49. Welcome martina 6b50. Cala Trinchetto 6a+51. Oggi in Stereo 6a+52. Domani in Mono 6a53. Pigiama antigravitazionale 5c54. Biancachiappa e le sette mani 6a+55. Metanolo 6a,6b56. Spigolo dei meticci 6c+57. Coralie 7a+58. Era il 38 Luglio e faceva molto caldo 7a+59. Ottavo cielo 7c+60. Settimo cielo ?61. Myto ?

1. Cà du diau 6a+2. In viaggio con Papà 6a3. Saremo Famose 6a+4. For Marylin 7c5. Trepass 7b6. Violente emozioni 7a7. Frish Fresh (Relax) 6a+,6a+8. Ma...cuccati il monodito 6a+

9. Passami l’Ascensore 6c+10. Placca degli onesti 6c11. Rosa Pastello 7a+12. Fessura della tarantola (needs gear) 5b,5c13. Fuoco di Paglia 6a

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1

8

11

9

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12

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14.6.14.4.

14.5. Monte Cucco, Piccolo Canyon

20 m. Multi pitch up to 45 m.

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4

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14 15

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1. Diretta al campanile (60 m.) 6a2. Normale al Campanile (60 m.) 4c3. Variante Nord 6b4. Mudra 7a5. Pista che scavo a vista... 6c+6. Decadenza 7b7. Glass Spider 6b+8. Corto Cortese 6a9. Invidia parlante 6a+10. Per Elisa (60 m.) 6a11. Fisiognomica 7b+12. Icaro 7a+13. Stanza dei Bottoni 6b+14. Ultimi Fuochi 6a15. Lupunciuk 6a+16. Lupo Mannaro 5b17. Uccellacci, Uccellacci 7a+18. Danza dei nervi 6c+19. In Salah 7a+20. Aut-Aut 7b+21. Occhi storti per mino reitano 7b+22. Rubando le nuvole 7a23. Via delle gomma (70 m.) 6a,6b24. Priscilla (needs gear) 3,6a25. Machetto (60 m.) 6a,6c+26. 57 Puffi Blu 6b27. Tigrotti della Magnesia 6b+,6b28. Gran turismo 7a+,6b29. Cristalli di Luna 7a+30. Crioterapia digitale 7a,6c31. Dolce tabù 7b+32. Aras Eleinad 7b+

33. Highlander 7a+34. Rimedi Topici 6c+35. Hartman 6a,6b+36. ? ?37. Topo Mix 6b+38. Ultimo Buco 6a+39. Scianca miande 6a,6a+40. Kazooca 6b,6a

14.6. Monte Cucco, Campanile, Placca del Polpaccio, Sahara Wall, Machetto

N 44 12.691´EO 08 19.897´


15 and 16. Rian Cornei, Keymap

© coronn.com

Orco

15

16.1.

17

P

PP

P

Boragni

DirectionFeglino

DirectionFinale Ligure

DirectionFinalpia

16.2.

CiappodelleConche

16.4.

16.3.

16.5.

16.6.

16.7.

16.8.

16.9.

16.10.

16.13.

16.12.

16. 11.

16.14.

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Route name, grades and map on next page

49

5150

DirectionCiappo delle Conche

15. Rian Cornei, Italsider

N 44 12.856´EO 08 20.314´

East, North-East30 m.

58. Olhos de Brilantes ?59. Continuando a chiedermi perche’ 7b+60. La persuasione e la retorica 6c+61. Fenia in agonia 7b62. Spit e spot 7a+63. Sofismi e sadismi 6c+64. E musse du Riccardo 6b

Follow the red quadrangular marksand pass Italsider in the direction of“Ciappo delle Conche”. Just beforethe crest, turn left and you will findanother little crag, Falesia delCastagno (No Topos);

1. Blues per Manitu’ 6b2. Frammenti di Cielo 6a

15. Rian Cornei, Italsider

© coronn.com


Drive from Finale Ligure in the direction of the highroad. Turn right in the directionof Finalborgo and continue through the town on small roads. Follow signposts forFeglino. In a T-junction, turn right in the direction of Orco. Pass the Rifugio andcontinue about 1 km. On the right you will find a small road that leads to a smallvillage. Park on a lay bay and follow this road by foot. In the T-junction, hold rightand turn right on to the marked track just before a quarry. You will reach the firstcrag, “Un Domani”, after about 10 minutes.

You can also reach the crag by driving from Finalpia in the direction of Magnone/S.Filippa. Turn left in the direction of Boragni/Orco and pass both these villages.About two kilometers later you will see the crag.

Settore principale

1. Lasciati andare ?2. Troglodita 7b+3. Vengo 6c4. Un occhiolo di Riguardo 5c5. Yury chechi 6a6. L’Anormale 6a7. Sangue cioccolata e magnesite 6a+8. Cielo artico 6a9. Sagra del fuoco 5c10. Margherita...che Pizza 5c11. Sapin 6a12. Via dei Pigmei a cornei 6a+13. Recco Team 6b14. Se non passo non passo 6b15. Me sun ciccao 6c16. E la panza avanza 6b+17. Via del Ghiro vagante 5c18. Non ci passo credere 6a19. Finche’ c’e’ roccia... 5c20. Chiodando sotto la pioggia 5c21. Miami beach 5b22. Stefania on the rocks 5a23. Generale stai sulla collina 6a

Gelateria del Bosco

24. Profiterol 5b25. Baba’ 6a26. Baci di dama 6a27. Meringa 6a28. Fior di Latte 6b29. Ciocori’ 6a+30. Ice cream 6a31. Bigne’ 6a32. ? ?

Boragni

Orco

14

15

16

17

18

P

Direction Finale,Monte Cucco

Direction Orco

Un Domani

33. Re delle placche 7a+34. C’e’ su’ 6a+35. Butterfinger 7a+36. Regina di Cuori 6a+37. Solotrip (In extremis) 6a38. Un Domani 7a39. Ritmo 6b40. Arena della fantasia 6a+41. Ematoma 6c42. Lavori stradali 6a+43. Pindacio 6a+44. La Grande Corsa 6b45. Primo Amore 6a+46. Minigolf 6b47. Contadini si nasce 6b+48. Parassiti si diventa 6b49. Bellixeddu 6a+

Burrida

50. Rigurgito di Burrida 6c51. Occhi Lucidi 5c

Falesia dell’ Invidia

52. Nice che dice 6c53. Boh! 6b54. L’Incontrollabile Mr. Control 6b55. Bidibibodibu 6a56. Albareto Show 7b57. A foa du bastettu 6a+

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16.2.

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1. Le Grand Borgion 6c2. Le cicatrici sono tante 6b+3. Torna a casa zolda 6b4. Road runner 6b5. Ghiri e Guru 5a,5c6. Woody Woodpecker 6a+7. Geppo 6a8. Grazie non fumo 6a9. Classic in spit 5c,6a10. La Squaw 6a+11. Aziun nau 6b,6b12. Il Franco dei Salami 6a+13. Cicipicipi 6a+14. Inject the Venom 6c15. Via del Kaiser 6c16. I fagioli sono buoni 6a+17. Squib’s 5c

8

5352

18. Monotono 5c19. Melkor 6b20. Il Salami delle falesie 6a+21. Agognando il Bar 6a+22. Flip Flop & Fly 6a+23. Volente o Volante 6b24. Free Joint 5c25. Giovani e Ribelli 5c26. Modello Base 6a+27. Aldo avanzini 6a+28. Trimo non farti toccare 6b+29. Affitansi scale 6c30. La storia infinita 6b31. Art of noise 6a+32. Il gruppo T.N.T. 6a33. E’ Ora di basta 6a34. Arsura vaginale 6a+35. Innominata 6b36. Turisti fai de te 6b37. Pollastro e patatina 6b+38. Buon Compleanno 6b+39. El Porompompero 6a40. Pinzimonio 6a+

41. Space dance 7a42. Honey Moon 6c43. Marcus 6b44. SuperMatteo 5c45. One day in Paradise 6b46. Coocolino II 6c+47. Gli occhi di Sara 6a+48. Lummerland 6a49. Roger Rabbit 5c50. Nesquik 6a51. Gold rush 6b52. Rambo Kid 6b53. Scherzi di Arlecchino 6a,5c

53

16.1. Rian Cornei Placconata Settore Sinistro

West30 m.

21. Rampicante 6b

22. Degradomania 6b+23. Rôstie ?24. Verde Blu 6a,5c25. La galline Marta 5c26. Nei secoli fedele 6b+27. The long run 6a+28. Dadaumpa 6b29. Osmosi 7a+30. Dimmi il numero 6a

© coronn.com

16.1.

16.3.

See route no.53 on Topos16.1.

13

2

4 5

9,10

6

1413

21

2019181716

1524

23

27262512

7 811 29,

30

30

22

28

1. La routa del Tempo 6b+2. Dobro 6a3. Giochi proibiti 6a+4. La Vendetta di Peperinik 6b+5. Sputnik 6b6. Sogno di un Clown 6a+7. Foxtrot 6a

8. Giochi d’Ombre 6c+9. Yama 6a10. Gioventu’ Bruciata 6b,6b

11. ...E il Lupo Alberto 6c+,6c12. Serafino gemelli 6a+,6b13. GT 6a14. Dito Ditino 6b15. Abbio’ 6c+16. Soldi per niente 7a17. Il Barone rampante 7a+18. Prigionieri del Sole 6c19. Lo sai Ehhh... 6b20. Ad Ovest di Paperino 6c+

16.2. Rian Cornei, Avancorpo

N 44 12.797´EO 08 20.679´


© coronn.com

16.4.

16.4.

1

3

2

4

5

6 71. Razmataz 10 6c2. Ryobi 6b3. Breve storia del tempo 7a4. Pappa Cica 6b+5. La mia testa e’ una nuvola 7b6. Destino animale 7a7. Profondo Rosso 6b

To16.2.

16.3. Rian Cornei, Avancorpo


© coronn.com

1 32 4 596

1413 21201918171615 24 27262512

7 8

11

22 28

10 23

32313029

36353433

373842414039

1.Torna a casa BronTolo 6a2. Fattonik 6a+3. Squit Squit 6a4. Eu e tu 6a+5. I miei primi 18 anni 6b+6. Nebbia in Val Cornei 6b7. Ole e trufa 7a8. Il Tapezziere 7a9. ...E la presa non c’e’ piu’ 6b10. Trapan 5c11. Alien 6a12. Bejamin 5c13. Rita 5c14. Gatto Silvestro 5b15. Paperinik 6a+

16. Oca enri 6a17. Sun Misciu 6a18. Spun Ciun 5c19. Magnesite Erotica 6a20. Climbonsai 6a+21. Carmen 6a+22. Variante Novi 6c23. Via Novi 6c24. Via del Giovane Paolo 6a+25. Conquista la Fisioterapista 6a26. Il Cerbiatto 6a27. Fammi sognare 6a28. Non raitate sul tornamente 6b29. Vecchietto volumetrico 6a+30. Mary per sempre 6a31. Lo gnomo e la Luna 6a+32. A Mussa da Giaruna 5c33. Magici suoni 6b+34. Bucare stanca 6a+35. Joe Condor 6a36. Devil 6c+

37. Rammannaia 6b+38. Wonder Betta 6b39. La Vispa Teresa 6c40. Magic moment 6b+41. Ciao Heidi 6b+42. Porno diva 6c+

16.4. Rian Cornei, Falesia dell’Eco

N 44 12.666´EO 08 20.632´


© coronn.com

1

32

4 5

96

1413 161512

78

1110

132

4 5,6

9

7 8

1110

6

1. Fetengsi 6b2. Tempo perso 5c3. Margherita 5500 5c4. Momenti di panico 6a+5. Gheimu mi e u franco 6b6. Folletto del Bosco 6c+7. Fatti i cazzi tuoi confucio 6c+8. Cattivik 6a+9. Bar Central 6b10. Hot Chocolate 6b11. Immagine di un sogno 5c12. Chiedendomi perche’ 6a+13. Sioux campoliverpool 6c14. Trastullo e prismina 6b+15. El trip l’e’ mai trop 6a+16. Zabadubie 6a

1. Jana 6c2. Local hero 6c+3. Des zuckende mann und das schaf 6b+4. Alternanza emotiva 6c5. Danzig 6b+6. Diesel and dust 6c7. Quasi Modo 6b8. Alien remover 6b9. La Donna e l’arte del vino 5c10. Hommage a’ cinque litri 5c11. Bangladesh 6b

16.5. Rian Cornei, Falesia di Camelot and F. del Guru


© coronn.com

1

2,3 4

5

9

6

1413

161512

78

1110

3

1. Mezze Verita’ 6b2. Masomanie 6a3. Bombs away 6b+4. Solingo 6c5. sandro Saba 6a6. Il Fiore di Berlino 6b7. Un giorno di quiete 6b+8. Muliebris dignitatem 6b+

9. Le pinetane 6a+10. E’ ora di finirla 6b+11. Diamante 6a+12. Sliced Pinneaple 7a13. Demoe 6b+14. Artigli sul futuro 7b15. Frio 7a16. Etilica 5c

To 16.6.2.

16.6.1. Rian Cornei, Falesia di Camelot


© coronn.com

12

45 96

1413 161512

7

8

11

10

318 19

20

17

21

1. Tequila 6b2. Refugium peccatorum 6b3. Rache fur wanda 6a+4. trippuk 6c5. Dream 6b+6. Angst 6b7. Halloween 6c8. Trazione fatale 6c+9. Metallica 6c+10. Tirami su 7a11. Guns’n roses 6c

12. Tienimi Tienimi 6a+13. Missing 6b14. Muy Pamplona 6b15. Esquimia 6a+16. Carry on 6b+17. Hispavox 6c+18. Con le mani 6c+19. Mesoterapia digitale 6b20. Calimba 6a21. Ginevra 5c

16.6.2. Rian Cornei, Falesia di Camelot


© coronn.com

1 2

4 5

96 7

8

103

1. Tati 6a2. Facciamo pace 6a3. Le Pippe di Alby 6a4. Facciamo all’ Amore 6a5. “Brondolo” 6a6. Super artur 6a7. ...E bravo Zamba 6a8. ? 6a9. Olla 6a10. I Marchi 6a

On the other side of the valley, from leftto right (No Topos);1. Oracle 6c+2. Ma se ghe pensu 6c+3. A Metro’ 6b+4. Corto Circuito 6b5. Estote parati 6a+

16.7. Rian Cornei, Falesia di Camelot

North15 m.

© coronn.com

1. Tilita 5b2. Apita o Comboio 5c3. Sopra il tetto c’e’ Marchetto 6a+4. Der alte barde (Top Rope) 6b5. Quellu belin du scupulin 6a+6. Bonsai 6b7. Kurz und knachig 6c8. Albachiara 6a9. La sparata dei Mortaretti 5c10. Alessandra 6a11. Variegato amarena 5c12. Rigoletto 6a13. Desideri di una Top model 5b

14. I guerrieri dell’arcobaleno 6a+15. Saluti da Muroroa 6a16. Solitudine 6a+17. Clitorio 6b18. Silvia 5c19. Sector 5c20. Passo Sepozzo 6a21. Kindergarten 5b22. Ciappo delle conche 5b23. Utopia al chiar di Luna 6a+24. Drum Milde 6a+25. Passo e chiudo 5a

16.8. Ciappo Basso

N 44 12.599’EO 08 20.448’

South18 m.

Continue on bad tracksabout 300 m. and youwill find this small cragwith nice routes.

1. ? 5c2. ? 5c3. ? 6a+4. ? 5c5. ? 5c

1 2 4 5

9

6

1413 161512

7

8 1110

3

19 2017,18

21 242322

25

18

1 2

4 5

3

16.8. Rian Cornei, Ciappo delle Conche

South15 m.

© coronn.com

1 2 4 5 96

1413

1615

12

7 8

11103

1718

1. Primo incontro 6a2. Amore rubato 6a+3. Antro della Luna 6b+4. Resinix 6b+5. A volte ritornano 6c6. Gli spari sopra 6b+7. Ponti di Bactapur 6b+8. Transfert 6b+9. L’Uomo banale 7a10. ? 6b+

11. ? 6b+12. Pensieri proibiti 6b+13. Obelix 6c14. Harrier 6c15. Mattino di primavera 6a16. Sogno di una farfalla 6b17. Birdy 6c18. Ricordi d’infanzia 7a19. Facciamo un sacco i diversi 6c20. Il Gallo non canta piu’ 6b

16.9. Rian Cornei, Bocca di Bacco

North20 m.

© coronn.com

1245

9

6

14 1316 15 12

7

8

1110

3

171819

22 2120

252423

26

30

292827

333231

DirectionPonte Cornei

DirectionOrco

1. Jamin-A 8a+2. Infinita ?3. La Rissa 7a+4. Racing in the street 6b+5. Hector 6c+6. Mister X 6c7. Merci beaucoup nature 6b8. Notte magica 6b+9. Incubus 6b10. Scherzi del Vino 7a11. Smemorex 7a12. Ciao e scioa 6c13. Self control 6b14. Lilliput 6b+15. Ronchionata 5+16. Mister Fantasy 6a17. Impressioni di Settembre 6a18. Quin sabe 6a+19. Biko 5c20. Ultime grida dalla falesia 6b21. Il Fico 6b22. Non sei mica King Kong 6a23. Mister Bluff 6a24. Fata turchina 6b25. U fantasma du louvre 6b26. U sandru 5c27. Patto col Diavolo 6c28. Filtro della strega 6b+29. Geronimo 5b30. ? 7a31. Malafemmina 7b32. Mantide 6c33. Virus 6b

16.10. Rian Cornei, Gola dei Briganti

All points of the compass20 m.

© coronn.com

12

45

96

14

13

15

12

7 8

1110

3

17 19222120

25242326 292827

1618

343332313035

4038,39

3736

39

434241

1. ? 5c2. Temple of the King 7a3. Il ritorno degli storti 6a+4. Amazzonia 6a5. Pizza Wurstel 6a+6. La Gatta Soraya 6b7. Greenpeace 6b8. Ecologia 5c9. Beer&Chips 6b+10. A Bastone 5b11. L’acrobata dei Boschi 5c12. Yuma 6b+13. Saxonia 5c

14. Dous Dous 5c15. Falso d’autore 6a+16. Patek 6a+17. Telefona 6a+18. Il silenzio parla 6a+19. Solotrip 6a+20. Stiletto 5c21. Pat Pong 6a22. Il ritorno dalle polvere 6b23. Antaio 6a24. La Cicciolina 6b+25. Fjodor 6a+26. Viaggio nella conoscenza 6a+27. Golden Lady 6b+28. Joe Rotella 7a+

29. Notte delle gomme bucate 6c30. Bagonghi 6c+31. Alicante 6b32. Monregalesi al Rhum 7b33. Schiavi ma distinti 7a34. Te gusta l’aragosta 6c+35. Il silenzio e’ d’oro 7a36. Siddharta 7a+37. Avaria 7b38. Pas de bloc 7c39. Franti 7b+40. L’Avvocato 7a41. Ciccia baliccia 6b42. Riti magici al tramonto 6b+43. L’Urlo della farfalla 6b

16.11.1. Rian Cornei, Falesia del Silenzio

South-west30 m.

© coronn.com

16.11.3.

44

49,50

48474645

50

44. Ricardo di max 6c,6a45. Braille 7c+46. Al malu’ 7c,7b+47. Al Borgo c’e’ u Guru 6b+,6a+48. Cervello rotante 6a+49. Un bel regalo per il mio compleanno6a+50. Las Vegas 6a+

16.11.2. Rian Cornei, Striature Obese

South, South-West35 m. Multi pitch up to 50 m.

© coronn.com

51626160595857565554

5352

6463

6968

676665

To16.11.2.

To16.11.4.

58a

51. ? 6a52. Arrivederci Finale 6b+53. Super Mamma Rina 6c+54. Gogna non potra’ mai capire6a+55. The lost wordl 6b56. Full Moon 6b57. Roba da Matti 6b58. Panare volanti 6a+58a. Frau Einzhan und Herr 6b59. Cosa che’ 5c

60. Beppo’s gang 6b+61. Das wahnsinns fette beute 6c62. Appropiamento illecito 6c+63. Il teorico 6a64. Va...Gina 6a+65. Suini volanti 6b+66. Non staccatemi il fungo 6a67. Dove osano le oche 6a68. M’Impicco il Pacco 6b69. Eccheneso’ 6b

16.11.3. Rian Cornei, Tempio del Vento

South30 m.

© coronn.com

70

7574737271

79

77,78

76

78

8483828180

85 to 87,50 meters further on.

70. Via di Marco e Riccardo 5b71. Rispitta la natura 5c72. Dubbi di Bacco 6b+73. Video Game 7b+74. Ma bravo Guaglione 6c+75. Tra le braccia di Morfeo 6a76. Tempio del vento 6b77. Un Gniff Gnaff melodrammatico 6b+78. Orrenda 6b+

79. Morbida Sarucia 6c80. ? 6b+81. Accendi un cero Andrea 6a82. Schwanker 6c+83. Cape Town 7a+84. Dammi la mano destro belinda 7a85. Spiderman 6b+86. Es ruteli fur di 6b87. Faregschaderli 6b+

16.11.4. Rian Cornei, Tempio del Vento

South20 m.

© coronn.com

1 2 4

3

1. Dada 6b2. Furore ?3. Dead can dance 7a+4. Running on empty 6a

1. Estathe 7a+2. Blob 7a+3. Di tutto 7a4. Di piu’ 8b+5. Medi trani ?6 Mediterranea 7b+

1

2 4,5 6

3

5200 m. right

DirectionOrco

The dirt roadto Orco

16.12.

16.12.

16.14.

Through the cave to crag 17,Grotta della Strapatente

16.13.

16.12. Val di Nava, Il Vascello Estathe

N 44 12.536´EO 08 21.006´

East20 m.

© coronn.com

1 243

1. Crach 7c2. Mago 7c3. Relax ?4. Le ore liete 7b+

DirectionOrco


16.12.

16.12.

16.14.


16.13.

16.13. Val di Nava, Grotta dei Pipistrelli

North15 m.

Do not touch

the bit when

running the

engine

© coronn.com

1. I Baccanali di Augusto 6c2. Le orge di Caligola 7a3. Agnus Dei 6a+4. Messalina 7a5. 30.000 spit A.C. 7b6. Spartacus 7a7. Megalitica 6c

DirectionOrco


16.12.

16.12.

16.14.


16.13.

1

2

4

56

7

3

16.14. Val di Nava, Grotta dei Balconi

N 44 12.637´EO 08 20.961´

South20 m.

Boragni

DirectionOrco

DirectionCalvisio

17.1

17.2

17.317.4

17.517.6

17.7

17.8

© coronn.com

17. Bastionata di Boragni, Keymap

1. Chi non vola e´ un vile 6a,6a+2. Brodo di Calzini 5c,6a+3. Chi vola vale 6a+4. Another spit in the wall 6a+


To find the area, see the Keymap.Coming from Calvisio; About 1 km beforethe small village Boragni the road passesjust besides a crag. Park at a laybay andfollow the track for a couple of minutes tofind this crag. The crag is visual from theroad and from the laybay.

2 3,4

1

4

17.7

17.8

© coronn.com

17.1. Bastionata di Boragni Avancorpo

N 44 12.778´EO 08 21.124´

North40 m.

Corsica, Monaco/La Turbie, La colle-sur-Loup, Le Palais andVerdon

Bauso di Veravo (castelbianco), Finale, including a Mountain Bikemap

Kalymnos

Arboli, El Chorro, La Mussara, La Riba, Mallorca, Montral,Montserrat, Prades and Siurana

Arco, including a Mountain Bike map

Bled, Kotecnik, Misja Pec, Napoleonica, Osp and Vela Draga

Frankenjura

Nynäshamn, Oslo, Stockholm, Stugun, Välaberget and Ågelsjön*

* autumn 2007

and other ones

Download free wallpapers,email pictures, screensaversand readersTOPOS, take alook at the climbing picturesand get more informationabout the climbing area.

Download other Topos fromcoronn.com

http://coronn.com

2

3

1

4

10,11

98

765

12

11

14

13

1. Tris 5c2. Eclisse 7a3. Aldebaran 7a4. Ci giova 7a5. Thovax 6a+6. Plexus 6b7. Stati di allucinazione 6c+,6b8. Black out 6c+9. Corda senz’anima 6b+10. Carletto’s way 6a+11. Super Gasp 7b12. Budget for fischer 7a+13. Intime delizie 6c+


To find the area, see the Keymap.Coming from Calvisio; Pass the smallvillage Boragni and park in the firsthairpaint bend. Walk 25 meters on thegravelled road to reach the crag.

17.7

17.8

© coronn.com

17.2.1. Bastionata di Boragni, Il Pilastro

N 44 12.848´EO 08 21.014´

North, North-West30 m.

1415

18

17

16

1921

20

22

23

Route no. 23

Direction17.3. SassoScorpion,about 50 m.

14. Tappo di Ghisa (top rope) 6b+15. Duca di Trolla (top rope) 6b+16. Schnepfentod (top rope) 5b17. Jugo Express (top rope) 5c18. Ragni? Bo’! 6b19. Good morning 6b+20. By pass 6c21. Delirium Tremens 6b+22. Il ritorno di Andreix ?23. Ali’ Baba’ ?

17.7

17.8

© coronn.com

17.2.2. Bastionata di Boragni, Il Pilastro

West20 m.

12 4

3

1. Asgard 7a+2. Scorpion 7c3. Mi manda Jessica 6a4. Super Lollo&Marco 6a+

Direction17.4. Settore Sinistroand 17.5, 17.6. Grottadella Strapatente

Direction17.4. SettoreSinistra,about 50 m.

Direction17.2. Il Pilastroabout 50 m.

1

43

2

17.7

17.8

© coronn.com

17.3. Bastionata di Boragni, Sasso Scorpio

West and East15 m.

21 4

109

87

11,12

1413 15 18

17

16

19

2120 22 24,25

26

29

2827

36

1. Via Ambra 5b2. Il Signor Robinson 6b3. Napo Orso Capo 6a4. Beati gli ultimi 6c+5. Meglio la roccia che la doccia 7a+6. Skinhead style 6a7. Zwerg 6b8. Carpe Diem 6a+9. Dead men don’t wear plaid 6c10. ...Troppa... 6b11. Tristan und isolde 6c,6a

12. Molokko plus 7a13. ? ?14. Gommovisione 6b,6a15. Chiaro di Luna 6c16. Super Pippo 7a+17. Tiro Mancino 6b18. Tira e molla 6b+19. Tira e ammira 6b+20. Sotto L’Edera 6c21. Maniglioni 5b

1256

22. Vasconi 5c23. Minestre Knorr 6b,6a variant to the left 6a24. Chatanooga 6a+25. Weisser Elefant 7a26. No Gas 6a27. Esatto 5c

23

28. E Basta 5c29. Manolesta 5c30. UFO 6c+31. Scarabeo 7a32. Gekko 7a33. S.O.S. 6b34. Aquitania 7a+35. Eliofobia 7a+,7a+36. Passare al Sole 6b37. Gianus 7b38. Hydra 7a

17

3837

34

3332

3130 35

3

17.7

17.8

© coronn.com

17.4.1. Bastionata di Boragni, Settore Sinistra

East40 m. Multi pitch 50 m.

39

45

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40

46

47

48

39.L’Acchiappabuchi 6c40. Genesi 7a41. Gocce di stress 6b+42. Mon Bijoux 6c+43. R4 All’ avventura 7a+44. El Capitan Findus 6c45. Ex-Spinosa 6c+46. La strada per l’inferno 7a+47. Un giorno in Paradiso 7b48. Myricae 6b+

17.7

17.8

© coronn.com

17.4.2. Bastionata di Boragni, Settore Sinistra

East30 m.

5

3

1 and 2,25 m.down.

4

987

6

10,11,12

1211

1615

1413

Direction17.6.about 100 m.

1. Strapatente (no Topos) 5b2. Nautilus(no Topos) 7b+3. ? ?4. En Attendant Berhault ?5. A life less ordinary 6c+6. Lick my wounds 6c+7. Semplicemente 7a8. Texaco 7b

9. Sonica 6c10. Memobox 7b11. Panorama 7a+12. Filikudi 7a13. Pyro 7a+14. Stella Cometa 7a15. Web 7a+16. Blu 6c


To find the area, see the Keymap.Continue on the wide track from 17.3.Sasso Scorpio. After a couple of hundredmeters (about 250) there is two red markson each side of a small track that turnsright. Follow this step track to find thecrag. Access; About 15 minutes fromSasso Scorpio.Walk through the cave to reach the sector16!

17.7

17.8

© coronn.com

17.5. Bastionata di Boragni, Grotta della Strapatente

N 44 12.719´EO 08 21.009´

North-West30 m.

5

4

9,10876

1211

32

1

10

Direction17.5. Grotta dellaStrapatenteabout 100 m.

1. Pro-Tetto 6b+2. Placcato oro 4c3. Buon compleanno 4c4. Placca dei muratori 5b5. Dove osano i conigli 6b6. Lavori forzati 6a+

7. Tri-Tetto 6b+8. Il regalo dei cugini 6b+9. Pena capitale 6a+10. Movimenti intestinali 6a11. Biro Bic 6b12. Kick 7a

17.7

17.8

© coronn.com

17.6. Bastionata di Boragni, Grotta della Strapatente, Left part

N 44 12.672´EO 08 21.028´

West30 m.

54

98

7

612,13

11

321

10

17

16

1514

13 23222120

1918

1

7

16

17

201. Fabio 6a2. Mirko 6b3. Alice 4b4. Gnagnu 5b5. Nanetta 6a6. Leo 6a+7. OK. Britta 6b+8. Uno momento 6c+9. Il Signor Buck 7b10. Futur shock 7b11. Till 7a+

12. Topomix colpisce ancora 7c+13. Crazy mix 8a14. Crazy brothers 7c15. Senza Tabu’ 7c16. Deficit 6c+17. Non vedo 7c18. Non sento 7b19. Non salgo 7b20. Vedo 6a+21. Sento 6a+22. Salgo 5b23. Ciao 6a+


To find the area, see the Keymap.From 17.2. Il Pilastro; Continue on thegravelled road about 75 meters, the cragis located just by the road on the left.

17.7

17.8

© coronn.com

17.7. Bastionata di Boragni, Crazy brothers

N 44 12.906´EO 08 20.989´

All points of the compass20 m.

Direction17.7. Crazybrothersabout 75 m.

5

4

76,8

3

2

1

18171615

199 1110

13

8

2120

22

252423

1. Pipino 3,4c,6a,5b2. Barracuda 7a,6c3. La Quercia 5/A14. A foua du bestentu 7a+5. L’Interrogativvo 6a/A16. Rocky I 6a,4+,5c7. Breathless 6c,7a8. Rocky IV 5c/A19. Croi 6b+10. Alcolica 7b11. Hacida 7c+12. Tripudio 7c+13. Anime Dannate 7c+,?

14. Chiuso per Ferie 7a+15. Nicolo’ delle rose 6c+,7b+16. Sinfonia Grigia 7b17. Incubi di Pietra 6c18. Clessalibur 6b,6a19. S. Silvestro 5/A120. Rocky II 5c21. Rocky III 5c22. Dune 6b23. Pagoda 6c24. Antigallo ?25. Agonia ?

12

14


For routes from 5 to 18;Continue on thegravelled road fromCrazy brothers. Beforethe house, turn left onthe small track, from awater reservoar, walk upto the crag. To reach theother routes to the right,find small tracks in thewood.

17.7

17.8

© coronn.com

17.8. Bastionata di Boragni, Settore Centrale, Settore Destra

N 44 12.915´EO 08 20.803´ (Route 16)

East30 m. ! Route 18,19 and 20, 60 m !! Multi pitch up to 110 m.

1. Sperone Est 5c,4b,5b,3b 11. Coitus Interruptus 5/A0, 4b2. Vaccari 4b,5b,6a,5c 12. Spigolo N.O. 6a,5c,4c,5b,4b3. Senza Fantasia 6a,6a,6b+ 13. La Citta’ dei sogni 7a+4. Placca Marco Rebba 6c+ 14. Killer 7b+5. Miranda 5c,6b,6b,4b 15. Progetto ?6. Dinda ? 16. Equilibri impossibili 8a+7. Geppe 6c+ 17. L’urtiliglio 5c/a08. Mauro 7a 18. La ballata dei sospiri 6a,7c9. Sandro 6c+ 19. Aspettando Dimi 8a10. Luca 7b 20. Cresta degli Uccelli 5b


Drive from Finale Ligure in the direction of Genova. At theoutskirts of the next village, Finalpia, just before a tunnel,turn left in the direction of Camping San Martino. In theT-junction shortly after, drive straight forward and don’tfollow the signpost for the camping. Turn right before theriver bed and follow this road in the direction of Calvisio,Boragni and Portio. Continue and pass the road for Orco,and shortly after turn right in the direction of Vezzi Portio,S.Giorgio, Spotorno and Rocche Gianche. Park in the firsthairpaint bend by the quarry and scramble up to the crag.For route 18 o 20, park on the road near the crag.

1

75 6

8

3,42

109

11

151312 14

17

16

18,1920

© coronn.com

18. Rocca degli Uccelli


19 and 20. La Crema, Roadmap


Drive from Final Pia in the direction of Calvisio. In Calvisio, pass the bridge over the riverSciusia (the direction is Boragni). After you have passed the bridge, pass a Church andshortly after, turn left on a small road (Vico Bedina). Turn right in the T-junction after about100 meters, Park the car by the Church in La Cremà and walk on the gravelled road tothis picturesque village. As you have left the village, turn left on a small track where thetrack turns to the right just below a yellow crag to reach 20.1. To reach 20.2; Continueto the T-junction, turn left and walk up the step track and after some hairpin bends turnleft on a small track that will lead you to the crag.For 19; Continue straight forward in the T-junction. After 1 km, as the track bends to theleft you will see the crag, find a small track in the wood that leads straight on to the crag.Ifyou reach a dry river bed, “RIO MORTA”, you have gone 20 meters to far.

19.

La Cremà

Camping

PP

20.1.

20.2.

1 km.

© coronn.com

250 m.60 m.

2 3

1 4

10

87 14

13

965

181716

151112

1. El stinkadero 6b+ 9. Biberon 7a+ 11. Bon ton 6b2. D’Erschte 6a 10. Mago Merlino 7a 12. Manila 6a3. Odongay 6b+ 13. Fiore Selvaggio 6b+4. Rossese per superciuk 5c 14. Trasgressione 6c5. Colpo grosso 6c 15. Mi sembra un gioco 5a6. Love story d’Autunno 7a 16. Utopia al Tramonto 6c7. Kambotscha 7a 17. Citofonare Lilly 6a8. Squonk 6a+ 18. Pierino la peste 5a

© coronn.com

19.1. La Crema, Casa dell Vacché

South-West20 m.

See route 18,19.1.

19

23

2221

20

262524 27302928

19. Incubi notturni 5c 25. Bravo Bunny 6a+,6b20. Il coraggio di parlare 5a 26. Futura 7a21. Il parassita di coronata 6a+ 27. Strip Tease 6b22. Fai finta almeno di capire 6a 28. La Cosa 6c23. Sorci Verdi 6b 29. Andamento lento 7a24. Nonno grado 6c 30. Peter Pan 6b+

© coronn.com

19.2. La Crema, Casa dell Vacché

N 44 11.864´EO 08 21.178´

South-West20 m.

2

3

1

4,5,6

108,9

711,12

1413

12

9

65

50 m.

1. Spazzolampi 7c+ 6. Il Topo L’Elefante 6a+ 11. Fatix 7a+2. Oltre ogni....(not poosible to climb) 7a+ 7. Pathos 7a 12. Idrofobia 6c3. Alzati e cammina 7b 8. Vecchia Pantera 6c+ 13. Tombeur de Femme 7a4. Abacuc 5c 9. Qualcono ti osserva 7a 14. Fumo di Londra 6b5. Quatro spit di velluto grigio 6a 10. Le declic 7b

© coronn.com

20.1. La Crema, Settore Basso

N 44 11.473´EO 08 21.052´

North-East20 m.

1. La boule indienne 6c+2. Wilma 6b3. Pettinati (no bolts) 5+4. Totano 2 6a+5. Si salvi chi Puo’ 6b+

231

54

© coronn.com

20.2. La Crema, Settore Alto

North-East10 m.

2 314

10

87

1413

965

18

1715

11

12

23

22212019

2625

16

24

1. Le Valchirie 6a 14. Obelix 5c2. Attenti al gatto 6a+ 15. Panoramix 6b3. A Tiiti 6a 16. Gatto Felix 6b4. Patagonia 5c 17. Topomix 7a+5. Lo Stregatto 6a 18. Thor 6c+6. Mozary 6a 19. Canna Tonante 6b+7. Oasis 6b 20. Golia 7a8. Ruscoroid 6b 21. Rosso antico 6a+9. Proctolin 5c 22. Scorpion 6a10. Control 5c 23. Mitos 4c11. Falqui 5c 24. Elisir 6a12. Ziguli’ 6a 25. Igor 6b13. Asterix 6a+ 26. Dreams 4c


Drive from Final Pia in the direction of Calvisio. PassCalvisioand after approximately 1 km turn right in the direction ofVezzi. After 1 km, turn left just in a hairpin bend on to agravelled road signed “VIA IULIA AUGUSTA”, “VIAROMANA”. Park at a lay bay by the fot of the crag or(*better) continue and pass a bridge, park and take thetrack to this superb crag. * This track feels easy to walk, the otherone has a step and hard access during the last 300 meters.

East sectorSouth-Eastsector

South sector

West sector

P

P

21.1.

21.2.

21.3.

© coronn.com

21.1. Rocca di Corno, Settore Est

N 44 11.785´EO 08 21.791´

East20 m.

1. Schwanzus longus 6a2. Sbrinsa ciuvende 6a3. Ritmi Solare 5c4. Daniel Street 6b+5. Spitgrip 6b6. Foletto Rosso 6b,5a7. Pichenibulina 6b+8. Ten 6a+,5c9. Costringimi forte 6b10. Alchimie d’Estate 6c+11. Due dita di violenza 6b+12. Proiettile Umano 6b13. Il Topo 6a,5,6c14. Bei tempi 6b+15. Utopia 6c16. Silvester 7b17. Odeon 6b18. Pescegatto 7a19. Destin anime´ 7b20. Fora et labora 6c21. Ipsilon 4c,5c,5b22. Dall´ Inferno non si torna 7b23. ? ?24. Titomanlio 4c,4c,5b25. I sospiri di gastone 5c26. Jagermaister 6a+27. E se... si prova di qua 6a28. Variante Ascari 6a29. ? 5b30. ? 5b31. Il portale 5c,6c32. Spencer Tracy 6a+,6b33. Blu profondo 6c+34. Il Pescecane 6c,5c35. La Signora in Rosso 6c+36. Osso duro 6c37. Prima fessura 5b,5b38. Micro sistema 6a39. Seconda fessura 4c40. Terza fessura 4c,4c41. Angela 5c42. Carla 5c43. Le Fate 6b44. Ibis 6b

23

14

10

8,9

7

1413

6

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1811 12

21,2420

19

2625

9

16

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24

27

29

28

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31

36353433

39

4241

40

4443

3837

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21.2. Rocca di Corno, Settore Sud, Sud-Est

N 44 11.732´EO 08 21.765´

South and South-East30 m.Multi pitch 70 m.

2 31 4

1089

6,7

5

11

74

1. Il futuro e’ un ipotesi 6a+,6a+2. Il muro crepitante 5c3. Tracher 6a+4. Ferdinando 5c,5b5. Bettabel 5,5c6. Variant of route 7 6b7. Massimiliano Ferretti 4c,6a8. Enfant terrible 6a9. Hambre 7c10. Rombo di vento 6c11. Rock stupid 6c,7a+

© coronn.com

21.3. Rocca di Corno, Settore Ovest

West40 m. Multi pitch 60 m.

1. Slappa 7a+2. Baby Ghiro 7a+3. Incontri con gli animali 6b+4. Urka (Catmaker) 8b+5. L’Incontentabile 7c+6. Museo dell’ Uomo 7b+7. Orrilo 7b


Drive from Finale Ligure in the direction of Genova. At theoutskirts of the next village, Finalpia, just before a tunnel,turn left in the direction of Camping San Martino. Turn leftbefore the village Manie after a house that looks like achurch, follow the road in the direction of “Osteria delBOSCO” and “La Grotta”. After about 1 km, turn left justbefore the church, follow signpost for “La Grotta”. Parkbefore the small village on a laybay. Follow the road, turnleft just before the Bar. Walk down to “La Grotta”. At theend of this cave, pass the door and follow a small trackparalell to the crag for 250 meters. Approach 5 minutes.

RuinedhouseP

PBar

DirectionFinale

DirectionMiele

La Grotta

22.2.

22.1.

1

75 643

2

© coronn.com

22.1. Le Manie, Museo dell’Uomo

N 44 11.877´EO 08 22.371´

South15 m.

24

3

1

1. Mesa Verde 7b2. Il Pirata 8a3. Gila 7b4. U ma da prima 7c


Drive from Finale Ligure in the direction of Genova. At theoutskirts of the next village, Finalpia, just before a tunnel,turn left in the direction of Camping San Martino. Turn leftbefore the village Manie after a house that looks like achurch, follow the road in the direction of “Osteria delBOSCO” and “La Grotta”. After about 1 km, turn left justbefore the church, follow signpost for “La Grotta”. Parkbefore the small village on a laybay. Follow the road, turnright by the Bar, cross the village parking spot and descendthe gravelled road. After 500 to 600 meters you will seethe crag on the left side of the road. Approach 15 minutes.

RuinedhouseP

PBar

DirectionFinale

DirectionMiele

La Grotta

22.2.

22.1.

© coronn.com

22.2. Le Manie, Mesa Verde

N 44 12.145´EO 08 22.489´

North-East15 m.

© coronn.com

On the coast road from Finale Ligure to Savona,between the village Varigooti and Noli, you can findthree areas that is see facing;

Dancing Dalle

Mister Fish 5c2. capitan Findus 6a3. Sabry 6a+4. Aquafan 7a+5. Sospesa ?6. Dancing fool 7b7. Aquaplaning 7c8. Only locals 5c9. Ruggiu de ma 5c10. Dancing Dalle 7a

I Pilastri

1. ? ?2. Vedo Nudo 7a+3. Swimming cool 6b4. topless 5b5. Calma piatta 5b6. Lo Sibro 5a

7. Frescone d’oltralpe 5c8. Seadas 5c9. Pensa 6a10. Rockstorto 5a

A long (350 m.) travers;11. In scio bolesomme 5c

Nolitudine

1. Uscita di Sicurezza 5b2. Depende 6b+3. Raschia scogli 5b4. Hola 6a5. Guapa 4b,5b6. Strie 4c7. Luassu 5b8. Madunetta 4b,5b,4b9. Purpurangu 6a,6a,6a10. Buga Sbursa 6b+11. Classica 4b,5b,5c12. Spigola 4b

A even longer travers;13. Y2K (1500 m.) Swim if you fall Max 7b

P

P

P

23.1.

23.2.

23.3.

Capo Noli

23. Capo Noli

N 44 11.794´EO 08 25.539´ (Nolitudine)

South, South-West40 m.

View from Antri Rossi. Rocca di Corno. Citrus and sunset in Finale

24. Lido delle Sirene

SouthBoulder

P

12

34 5

1

2

3

5c6a+6c+

6a+

5c5b+

5a

6a+ 6a 5c+

??

4c3c

3b 4b

6a

How to find the crag:On your way to Savona from Finale, stop byLido delle Sirene and find some nice bouldercrags on the beach. Crag 4 offers someproblems (about 6b) and crag 5 easy bouldering.

Zinola

VadoLigure

Bergeggi

Savona© coronn.com

1000 m0

North

Noli

Spotorno

Varigotti

Finalpia

Finale Ligure

Finalborgo

Borgio Verezzi

TovoS. Giacomo

BardinoBardinoNuovo

Magliolo

Molino

Rialto

Cairano306

942

605

167 Feglino

799

590

348

Colledi Melogno

1030

293

360

102

366

Orco

188

Boragni 211

277

220

410

325

295

Verzi

Arma

Manie

Voze

CaliceLigure

Gorra

522

505

970

935

965

280

614

245 245

205

60

140

55

322

605

Colla diS. Giacomo

A10

289

Grottadell Arma

GrottaPolera

304

180

135

145

160

Colla del Gatto

Calvisio

265

295

235

Mountain Bike Map A3The best tracks/roads in the area

© coronn.com

Vesallo

VeravoColletta

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

1 km

DirectionNasino, Altocrag 13 to 16

DirectionCisano Sul Neva,Albenga and crag0.0

SP14

© coronn.com

Località Lagu SantuRistorante Scola Colletta

Sottana

LocalitàMagliocca

LocalitàTeccio

1.

2.

3.

4.5.

6.

7.8.

9.

10.

11.

12.

1. Terminal 7. Le Caprette2. ? 8. Falesia Telematica3. Castelbianco 9. Rocca Rossa4. La Ciusa 10. Bauso Veravo/La Fontana5. Reunion 11. Malavoglia6. La Colletta 12. Euskal

Castelbianco area, Crag map

Oresine

In general, crags facing North or East isbest during spring/summer, the rest offersbest climbing during autumn/winter.Il Planetario, crag 13, is beautiful all seasons,but offers only hard routes.A summer crag (facing North), crag no. 0, isnot covered by this map, located 500 metresfrom Martinetto. Crag 13 to 16, further up inthe valley, see separate maps.First time visitor? Follow this detailed map, asyou arrive in the area, stop in “Località Tecchio”,just after you have passed a Agriturismo(Italian type of Bed and Breakfast). You havecrag 1 and 2 near this village.

7 89 10

14131211

1615

1921

12

34

5 6

20

1817

9. ? ?10. Zenit 6b+11. Greenwich 6c+12. Luce 6b+13. Tuono 6b14. Sabbia 6c15. Aria 6c+16. Acqua 7a17. Fuoco 6c18. Marea 7a19. Lava 7a20. Vento 6c21. Brina 6b+

DirectionMartinetto

DirectionCastelbianco

Quarry

1. Grecale 6c+2. Atollo 7a+3. Meridiali 7b+4. Clima 7a+5. Cometa 7b6. Stella 7a7. Neve 6a+8. Piogga 6b+


Drive from Albenga North-West onroad P582, signpost for Garresio. InMartinetto, just after you have past apetroil station, turn left in the directionof Castebianco, Nasino, Alto. After 5-600 metres, before a quarry, park ona lay-bay before a road to the left.Enter the road by foot through a gatewhere you can read a signpost “Divietodi transito e di sosta”. After about 100metres, follow a small track to thecrag. You will see the crag at your leftfrom the main road from Martinetto.Access time from the car is less than3 minutes.

0. Emisfero

N 44 05.306´EO 08 07.265´

North25 m.

© coronn.com

© coronn.com

Route 1 to 67

89

10

1413

1211

1615

17 18

19

20,21

21

25242322

1. Marco Polo 6b2. ? ?3. Simon Bolivar 7b4. Indira Ghandi 7b+5. Narita 8a6. Ataturk 7b+7. Ben Gurion 7a+8. King Khaled 7a9. Schipol 7a+10. Gimpo 7a+11. Sheremetyevo 7c12. Chek Lap Kok 7b13. Ngurah Rai 7b+14. Chiang Kai Chek 7b15. Tolmachevo 7a+16. E. Venizelos 7c17. Nino Aquino 7b+18. Lester Pearson 7c19. Elmas 7c+20. ? ?21. ? ?22. ? ?23. Alice Springs 8a+24. Caselle 7c+25. Orly 6c+

1.1. Terminal

N 44 06.318´EO 08 05.158´

South35 m.

© coronn.com

323130

29282726

See route25

3433

35

42414039

38

37

36

26. Charles de Gaulle 6b+27. Le Bourget 6b28. Tempelhof 6b29. Arlanda 6a+30. Logan 5c31. Macapa 5b32. Stapleton 5a33. Dulles 6a+34. J.F.K. 6b35. A. La Guardia 6b+36. Newark 6b+37. Ministro Pistarini 6c38. John Wayne 7a39. Torp 7b40. ? ?41. ? ?42. ? ?

1.2. Terminal

South30 m.

© coronn.com

4746454443

See route42

5352

51

50

4948

54

575655

43. ? ?44. ? ?45. ? ?46. ? ?47. ? ?48. ? ?49. ? ?50. ? ?51. O’Hare 6b+52. Oto teni 6b53. P. Picasso 7a54. Fertilia 6a+55. Via d’amor 7b?56. La folle sferanza 7a57. Pook 7a+

1.3. Terminal

South35 m.

© coronn.com

6059587170

696867

61

58. Non conclude 6b+59. Cannamao 6c+60. L’essere e il nulla 7a+61. Maraquaia 7a62. Gatwick 6c+53. Hethrow 7b+54. Luton 7b65. Kansai 7a+66. Pudong 6c+67. Prat 6b+68. Borispol 6b69. Tegel 6b70. Baraja 6a+71. Project ?

1.4. Terminal

South, South-East30 m.

7

89 10

1413

1211

1615

18

4

5 6

321

17

1. ? ?2. ? ?3. ? ?4. ? ?5. ? ?6. Kerria ?7. ? ?8. Scilla ?9. Skimma ?

10. Malva ?11. Menta ?12. ? ?13. ? ?14. ? ?15. Zenzero ?16. ? ?17. Potos ?18. Assenzio ?

The Castelbianco area is partlybrand new, unfortunately we don’thave any grades on this grag fornow.

2. ?

N 44 06.134´EO 08 05.034´

North30 m.

© coronn.com

7 8 9

10

14

131211

15,16

15

4

5

6

3

21

1718

1. Grocca ?2. Radio Ethiopia 7b+3. Marti 7b4. Ninja 7a5. Bndzoe 7c6. Serve una mano? 7b+7. American Fors 7b+8. Belfagorre 7c9. Rinascimento 7c+

10. Rinasciilla 7c+11. Godzilla 7b12. Gurdingo 7a+13. M’a Magno 7b+14. Blocca 6c+15. Sacalatore 6c16. Barricateve 7b+17. Era ora 7c18. Vattene 7c+

3.1. Castelbianco

N 44 06.403´EO 08 04.716´

South30 m.

© coronn.com

19

20

21

22

25

24

23

292827

34

26

3332

31

30

35,36

36

38

37

19. Psycho killer 7b+20. Assaggio 7c21. Nexus 7 8a+22. Iron Man 8a23. Gold Shower 7c24. Perfect man ?25. Fire man 8b26. Premiere ?27. Lupo d’argento 8a28. Ari Yama 7c+

29. Kiffaro 8a30. Gerard Callegar 8b31. La presenza 8a32. Sun Rise 8a+33. Super wives 8a+34. Tremarella 8a35. Guido io 8a36. Guida tu 8a37. Guidate pure 8a+38. Gilerio 7c

3.2. Castelbianco

South30 m.

© coronn.com

78 9 10

141312

111615

19

4 5 632

1

20

1817

2221

1. Buch 7a2. Taiga 6c+3. Reef 6c4. Pack 7a5. Magnesia 7b6. Cordillera 6b+7. Pampa 7a8. Steppa 7b9. Tundra 6c10. Mani di burro 6b+11. Giugurta 6c

12. Classe 6b+13. Mutante 6c14. Innominata 6c15. Anonima 6b16. Transylvania 6b17. Sentimento nuevo 6a18. Slab 6a19. Stirene 5+20. La bragata 4c21. Ledum 5+22. Spray 6a

4. La Ciusa

N 44 06.419´EO 08 04.510´

North30 m.

© coronn.com

1. Volcan 6b2. Car Jaune 6c3. Le Sax 6c4. Croc Park 5+5. St. Denise 6c6. Merci Laurent 7a7. Chez Celine 7a8. Le Swalibo 7a9. Cilaos 6c+10. Boucan Canot 6c11. Asia food 6b+12. Salazie 6b+13. Takamaka 6c14. Mafate 6c15. Formica Leo 6b16. Le Tampon 5+17. Mora Mora 6a+18. Creola 6a19. Objectif 6c20. Vetiver ?21. Recif ?22. Le Skipper 6c+23. Maido 6c

7

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9

65

10

12 3

1113

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14

15

16 17

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18 22212019

23


Park by the side of the road in the small village “CollettaSottana”. Follow a concrete road and cross the river ona bridge. Continue 15 metres and then turn left andfollow this track until you reach the crag. Approach 5minutes.

5. Reunion

N 44 06.585´EO 08 03.923´

East25 m.

© coronn.com

7

8

9

65

10

12

3

11

1312

4

1. Carlo 740 6a2. Il Fausto 6a+3. Barbamario 6a+4. Telefatica 6a+5. Dino e Dina 6a+6. Gin 6a+7. Tritaco 6c+

8. Procaccia 6c9. Tenero Giacomo 7a+10. Drago e Barberis 6c11. London Road 6b12. Maxime 7a+13. Ole il vichingo 6a+

6. Rocca Colletta

N 44 06.680´EO 08 04.223´

South20 m.

© coronn.com

7 8 9654 10

1

2

3

11

15141312

16To route 11.

To route 10.

1. Nostro Signora delle diete 6c+2. Caprette Ovali 7a3. Il virus della piazza 6c4. La voglia e la paura 6c5. È tutta una truffa 6c+6. Tu e il tuo amico 7a7. Scoula 7a8. Win Fix 6b9. Il sentiero del pianto 6b10. La colpa 6a+

11. Soda 6a12. Uovo di geco 6a+13. Pesce azzurro 6a14. Buccia (L1) 6b15. Samarcanda 6b16. Chicco 6a

7. Le caprette

N 44 06.821´EO 08 03.634´

West, South.West and South20 m.

© coronn.com

7 8 965

10

12 3,4

11

1312

4

1415

16 17

1. Power Point 5c2. CD ROM 6a+3. Disk 5c4. Floppy 6b5. Byte 6a+6. Download 6c7. MP3 6b+8. Mouse 6a9. JPG 6a

10. Eudora 6b11. Netscape 5c12. File 6a+13. Linus 5c14. Hard Disk 6a15. Kazaa 6b16. D.A.P. 4c17. Photoshop 4b

8.1. Falesia Telematica

N 44 06.810´EO 08 03.527´

South20 m.

© coronn.com

See route 17.

18

25

2423

22212019

18. Publisher 4c19. Explorer 5b20. Mozilla 5c21. RAM 6a+22. Win MX 6a23. Outlook 6a24. Excel 6a25. Word 5a

8.2. Falesia Telematica

South20 m.

© coronn.com

7 8 96

5

10

1

2 3

11

13

12

14 15 16

17

4

1. Occhio alla banana 6b,A12. Ti spiego qual è il problema 6c3. ...E venne un omino 7a, 6b+, 6c+, 6c4. Bissia 7a, 6b5. ? ?6. Operazione Papero 6b, 6b+, 6b+, 7b, 6c7. ? ?8. Sistema Periodico 7b, 7b+, 7b9. Toccata e fuga 6c+,7a,7a+,7a+10. ? ?11. ? ?12. Due salti nel mistero 6b, 6b, 6c+,6c13. Per Elisa 3b, 5c, 6a, A1, 5c14. Ombre rosse 6b, 6b, 7a, 7a15. ? 6a+16. La puice d’aqua 6c, 6c, 6b+, 6b17. Sgroppata finale 6a+

9. Rocca Rossa

N 44 07.383´EO 08 04.193´

South, South-West30 m. Multi pitch up to 100 m.Rappel=60 m. rope

© coronn.com

12. Cavaica il masso 6b13. ? ?14. Aladdin 7a+15. Sibiris ?16. La scopa volante 6b+,5c17. Ben godi 6a+18. Sidun 6a+,6a19. Paolo Valle 6b, 5c20. Zot 6b21. Il palanchino magico 5c, 5c

1. Voleano patatina ?2. Dülfer in fondo 7a3. Lo guarda dei manu ?4. Tamahaq 7c5. Se volo mi fermerò 7b6. Timida 6c+7. Sotto la coltre 7b+8. ? ?9. ? ?10. Il castigo 6c11. Cindy Wau Wau 6c+

652 3 47

1.

8 9 10

12

11

15

141316

1819,2017

21

10.1. La Fontana

South-West30 m.

© coronn.com

22. Ryobi 6c23. Essenza della pazzia 6b+24. Lets play 6b+25. Bella e impossibile 7b+26. Thecosmilia ?27. Mssima tranquillità 6c+, 6b+28. Kramer centro Kramer 6c+, 6c+, 6c+

29. Prostata depravata 7a+30. ? ?31. ? ?32. Maestro di sogni proibiti 6c33. Arcobaleno selvaggio 6a34. Le porte della coscienza 6a, 6a+, 6b+, 5c

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10.2. Bausu Centrale

South-West30 m.

© coronn.com

35. Pigögggi rinvegnûi 6b+36. Tacche ticche 6c37. Saltasassi 6b38.’ Sambukeo 6a+39. Prima del temporale 6a+40. Profesione amico 6a, 6b41. ? ?42. Pensiero stubendo ?43. ? ?44. ? ?

45. ? ?46. ? ?47. L’ultimo Jolly 7b48. 18 Novembre 1996 7b49. Tra il sole e le nuvole 7a+50. ? ?51. Chi cerca trova ?52. Nefertiti 6c53. Albenga 7a

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43 44 464547

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5352

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10.2.1. Bausu Centrale

South-West30 m.

© coronn.com

54. Dagghe du brennu 5b,6c,6c55. Parole che non esistono 6b, 6c, 6c+56. La mantide religiosa 6a, 6a, 6b,6a57. ? ?58. ? ?59. ? ?60. ? ?61. Disastro ecologico 562. Bocca di rosa 7a63. Per Celia 5c, 6b, 5c

64. Paco, Baldo e Sally ?65. Via .... ?66. ? ?67. ? ?68. ? ?69. ? ?70. ? ?71. Il volo del calabrone 6c+72. Project ?

To find route54 and 55

56 63

62

61

59

59,60

5857

6766

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63

10.3. Bausu Destro

South-West30 m.

© coronn.com

74. Diedro delle Vinvere 5+75. Electric Blue 6a76. Il giudice 6a77. Giù le mani dal Kuwait 578. Bruma 6a79. Pautzella 6a80. Rebus 7a+81. Balla con lupi 6a82. Stenti e privazioni 6a+83. Un tranquillo week end di paura 6a84. Via di Claudio e Angela 6a+, 6c85. Il sole che verrà 6b+86. Tacca stacca 6b+87. ....Wild 5+

Pass the crag Malavoglia in the direction ofBauso Destro (crag 10.3). Turn right and follow asmall track and you will find a small cave, GrottinoMicromachines, with four short routes, from leftto right:1. ? ?2. Il Bombarolo ?3. Amico fragile 7a+4. Il gorilla 7a

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11. Malavoglia

N 44 07.109´EO 08 04.802´

South-West30 m.

© coronn.com


Pass the Castelbianco area and continue in the direction of Nasino. 1 km after you havepassed the “Ristorante Scola” in the “Località Lagu Santu” you arrive to an area wherethey manufacture earth and products for to improve the soil. Park, continue by foot andfollow the track heading up to the visible crag. After about 150 metres, turn right on toa smaller track that will finish meeting a bigger track. Turn right, after about 50-70 metres,turn left on to a smaller track to the crag.

12. Euskal, Keymap

© coronn.com

1. Adriano 6b2. Crasso 6c3. Numa pompilio 6b+4. ? 6b+5. Caracalla 6a+6. Pompeo 6a7. ? ?8. Ovidio 7a9. ? ?10. ? ?11. Messalina 7c12. Augosto 7b13. Cassio 7a14. Seneca 7a+15. Traiano 6c16. Caligola 7a17. Nerone 7a18. Bruto 6b+19. Silla 6b+

20. Anco Marzio 6c21. Costantino 6b+22. Romolo 6a23. Remo 5c24. Tito 5c25. Massenzio 4b26. Catone 4c27. Catullo 4b

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12.1. Euskal

South30 m.

© coronn.com

28. Tibereo Gracco 5c29. Calilina 6a30. Orazio 6a31. ? ?32. Project ?

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12.2. Euskal

South-West25 m.

© coronn.com

33. Pinta 6c34. Caña 6c35. Donostia 6b+36. Calentamiento 6c37. Sexto Sentido 7a+

3635

343338

See next page

37See 12.2.

12.3. Euskal

N 44 06.672´EO 08 02.672´

South35 m.

© coronn.com

38. Tapas 7a39. Tallados 7c+40. Los Equipadores 7b41. Escalar fanatico 8a42. SEVEdemos 8c43. Dopaje 7c44. Rocodromo 7c+

45. Esfuerzo 7b+46. Roca Natural 7c47. Kepa 7c+48. Cordero 7b+49. Desflumada 7c50. Prueba ?51. Chorrera 7a52. Boccadillo 7b

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12.4. Euskal

South35 m.

© coronn.com

Nasino

Vignolo Vignoletto

DirectionAlto

P

How to find the crag:From the area of Castelbianco, continue onthe road SP14 in the direction Nasino, Alto.Pass the village Nasino and in a hairpin bend,turn right following signpost for Vignolo. PassVignolo, after about 500 meters the road willbe graveled. If you don’t have a 4x4 Jeep youwould be happy to have one, though it ispossible to reach the crag in a normal car.From the village Vignolo, pass a Pic-Nic areaafter 2,9 km, continue for 3,0 km. After a sharpbend to the right you can parc on a laybay tothe right, big enough for 3-4 cars. Walk straightup to this beautiful crag.

13. Il planetario, Road map

© coronn.com

http://www.coronn.com/quick_draws/quick_draws.html

1. Terra 7a+2. Sole 7b+3. Marte 8a4. Sedna 7c+5. ? ?6. Cassiopea 8b7. Giove 8a8. Nettuno 8a+

9. Saturno 8a+10. Urano 7c+11. Plutone 8a12. Mercurio 7c13. Matusalemme 7b14. Venere 7a15. Andromeda 6c

7 896

5101

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13. Il planetario

N 44 08.283´EO 07 59.941´


© coronn.com

P

SP107

ALTO

Caprauna

DirectionCastelbianco(10 km)

14.15.

16.

14. La Corsia15. Red Up16. La Sorgenta

How to find the crags:

From the area of Castelbianco, continue on the road SP14 in the direction Nasino, Alto. After 10 km you will arrive at ALTO.Crag 14 and 15: Just by the Church and the “Castello dei conti cepollini”, a castle in Alto, you will find a big car park. Continueby foot on “Via Fontane”, parallel to a football ground. Turn left on a concrete road, follow signpost for “Caprauna, Vecchiastrada” (The old road to Caprauna). After about 200 metres you pass a chapel. Continue some 200-300 metres and you findLa Corsia, continue 200 metres, hold right and follow a small track in the direction of a red crag and you find Red Up.Crag 16: Pass Alto and continue in the direction of Caprauna. Before you reach Caprauna, a couple of hundred metres afterpassing through a tunnel, turn left following signpost for “Case Sottone”. After a couple of hundred metres, just before you reachthe village, a small stone road turns (left) in the opposite direction (a signpost points towards the village (Case Sottane, FeraiaS. Cosimo)). Follow this dirt-road for 800 metres until you reach a PIC-NIC area. Park and continue some 500 metres to reachthe crag, suited just by the road.

These crags are the highlight of the area, don’t miss them!

Pic-Nicarea

P P

Pic-Nicarea

14, 15 and crag 16. Road and crag map

© coronn.com

“Caprauna, Vecchia strada” (The old road to

Caprauna)

DirectionCrag 15.

14. La Corsia

N 44 06.485´EO 07 59.801´


© coronn.com

1. Ecoflorina 6b2. Miconal 6a3. Clavulin 6b+4. Secretil 6b5. Tachipirina 7a+6. Ecofol 7a

7. Diclofenac 7b8. Nimesulide 7c9. Neoxene 7a10. Carbocisteina 7a11. Neogyn 7a12. Retard 6c

13. Decon 7a+14. Paracetamolo 6b+15. Insoniazide 6b+16. Atenololo 6c17. Ultraderm 6c18. Cimetidina 6b+

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15. Red Up

N 44 06.588´EO 07 59.568´


© coronn.com

1. Schermaglia ?2. Angelo retto ?3. Sud pacifico ?4. Sostegno volante 8a5. Torre pendente 8b6. Croupade 8a+7. Dieci cents a ballo 8a+8. Locomotiva ?9. Serramanico 7c+10. Leva di cambio 7b+11. Spinta 7c+12. Bob 7b13. Trapezio 7c+14. Balestra ?15. Catapulta 7a16. Schiene piegate 6b+17. Fantino 6c18. Carriola 6b+19. Forbice 5+20. Altalena 6b21. Nodo a farfalla 6b22. Doppia elica 6b+23. Ruota a raggi 6b24. Mercurio 6c

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“Caprauna, Vecchia strada” (The old road toCaprauna)

DirectionCase Sottane.

100 metres towater.

16. La Sorgenta

N 44 06.824´EO 07 58.374´

South30 m.

© coronn.com

1. Homo Georgicus 7c2. Ardipithecus 7c+3. Cro magnon 8a4. Project ?5. Homo Rudolfensis 8a+6. Lucy 8a

7. Homo Erectus 7c8. Homo Abilis 7c+9. Oetzi 8a+10. Similaun 7c+11. Homo Antiquus 7c12. Homo Neanderthalis 7b+13. Paranthropus 7a+

14. Homo Ergaster 7a15. Australopitecus 7c16. Homo Antecessor 7b17. Homo Sapiens 7b18. Pitecantropo 6c19. Mesozoico 6c20. Paleozoico 6c+

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finale liguria climbing guide

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