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'-HANDBOOK

OF

"

PRICE - ONE SHILLING21st EDiTiON,

THE AUSTIN MOTOR CO. LTD.LONGBRIDGE - BIRMINGHAMTd,pho"" CENTRAL4140-3. PRIORY2101-21~6Td,g,"m" "SPJ:EDlLY,NORTHFiELO:" Cod" BENTLEY'S

LONDON SHOWROOMS, REPAIR DEPOT AND HIRE DEPT. :

479-483, Oxford' Street, W.!T,/,pho,", MAYFAIR6230. Td'g",m; ,"AUSTINmE, LoNDON."

ANa

HOLLAND PARK HALLHOLLAND PARK AVENUE, W.l1

I

In "J~'~' 10 lhi, boo'

Plm" q=" "" nu.,b~ 7151

,I CONTENTS

fi Foreword. AMMETER READINGSATTENTIONS, D,;!y

WeeklyMonthlyO"",oml

BATTERY, The.BODYWORK,C", ofBRAKES,Adiu,"ng th,BRAKE GEAR,Lub"cation ofBRAKES,Re.I,ningCAR, Contml of tbe

F"tu", 01the"The New .

CARBURETTER,Th, . ." Adiu"meut 01 ... SlowRunningof.. L"bge Imm

CLUTCH, Lubrica"on01COMBUSTION CHAMBER,CI"ning ..COOLING SYSTEMDISTRIBUTOR, Lub,icationofDYNAMO, TheELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT, TheENGINE, Lub,icationof

" St".,;ng theFAN.. .FRONT AXLE, Lub,icationof .FUSE,Adion of th,GEARBOX,Lub,ication01GREASE GUN, Howto u" theHUBS (Fmnt ,nd Rm) Lub,ica"on ofIGNITION, Timing

" Sy,tem,TheLAMPS, Ca" ofLUBRICATION CHARTLUBRICANTS, Choi" ofREAR AXLE, Lub,ication01 ..ROAD SPRINGS,Lub,ica"on 01RUNNING ADJUSTMENTSSHOCK ABSORBERS,Adiu"m,nt ofSTEERING, Ad;u,tm,nt 01 .STEERING GEAR,Lub,icationofTOOLS, SuppliedTYRES, Th, .. .,. .UNIVERSAL JOINT, Lub,icationofVALVE TAPPETS,Adju,tm,nt ofWHEEL, Ch,uging, .WIRING, lIIu,'""on of

THE information contained in this Handbook is intended

only to guide and assist owners or drivers of Au,tin cars to

preserve the car in it, proper satisfactory running condition.

This publication must not be considered as a complete manual.

This handbook do", not in any manner vary or extend the liability

of the Company, which is limited to the Warranty issued with

the car. Where no information is given for a particular adjustment,

it may be regarded as one which the average owner would entrust

to a garage. When the occasion for adjustments of this character

arises, the owner should "ek the aid of the local Austin agent,

whose address will be found in the list of agents supplied with the

car. Both owner and agent are encouraged to call upon the Service

Department of the Ccmpany for advice, whether upon the manage.

ment of the car, the effecting of adjustment, or methods of repair.

Owners need not suppose that they will have to apply all the

attentions given in this book, but careful notice should be taken of

the chapters dealing with maintenance.

II

Two additional puhlications give lists and illustrations of all the

parts, and their prices, respectively, and the owner should find these

books helpful for reference.

. Many of the adjustments and attentions described in the following

pages are included in the" Schedule of Charges for Repairs." The

Ccmpany is confident that owners will find it to their own benefit

to make the fullest use of this standard price repair and maintenance

service, which it is a function of all Austin Agents to offer.

IMPORTANT.-See special note at end of book, withreference to accessories and equipment not manufacturedby the Austin Motor Co., Ltd.

'December, 1929.

2 3

,

PAGE33121213jJ3448

40.4129

43.44106

8..915.19

15171828

38.39242132

32.3626.28

824.46

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30.3123

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38.4645

41.42285049?f!381136

~

Th. A."", S T......

The AUSTIN SEVEN

THE Austin Seven is acknowledged to be the best small car inthe world.

It is designed for, and will carry in comfort, three adults or twoadults and three small children; or again it accommodates amply,two adults and their luggage up to a total weight of 30-32stones.

There are five models made. the Tourer, the Metal Saloon, theFabric Saloon, the Coupe and the Two-Seater Sports. TheTourer, with its easily operated hood, and side curtains that openwith the doors, provides complete protection in even the mostinclement weather. The closed models are alike in general linesand equipment. A particularly good feature is the wide door,carrying two glass panels, one lifting and one sliding. The largesingle panel windscreen, that can be opened wide, is another advan-tage. The Coupe model has the same features, but is designedto seat two persons. space being provided for luggage. Its nameaccurately describes the two-seater sports model.

In all models the front passenger seat tilts forward and allowsready access to the rear seats or luggage space.

It has a 4-cylinder, water-cooled engine, three-speed gear-box,and bevel drive through the diHerential. Lubrication is by pump,and cooling is on the thermo-syphon system and by fan.

The complete equipment includes electric, hand starting andlighting switches. air strangler, electric horn, speedometer, auto-matic windscreen wiper, license holder, shock absorbers, sparewheel and tyre and blank number plates. All external fittings arechromium plated.

4

II

..,

Brakes are fitted to all four wheels which carry 26 X 3.50 in.Dunlop balloon reinforced cord tyres.

The Austin Seven is particularly suitable for the woman driver.It requires little physical effort to drive and control, and for thatreason its use enables her to do shopping calls without fatigue, visither friends. attend social and other functions, or make excursionsor trips in any direction in any weather. For the same reasonsbusiness men find it an excellent vehicle, and commercial travellersand others whose occupation compels frequent calls over an extendedarea, have in the little car an embodiment of all they require. Callscan be made in places where trains, trams and 'buses are infrequent.

In large establishments where the use of a big car for short runswith messages, on shopping, emergency calls at short notice, as incase of sudden illness, would be found costly and inconvenient, the"Seven" has proved to be a splendid "tender," saving time andmoney.

As 45 to 50 miles per gallon is the average petrol consumption, thecost of transit is below the cost of fares on any public conveyance, andin this particular the Austin Seven has no rival.

Its speed, economy, reliability and road-holding qualities havebeen admitted beyond dispute.

Thousands of. motorists have had their first expenences on a"Seven," thousands more will follow them.

It has successfully passed through years of severe use and trial,and emerged a really successful and popular favourite.

1

I

Th. A.'ti. s S.loo..

5

- ,

DIMENSIONS

ENGINE

STARTER.

CLUTCH.

GEARBOX,

REAR AXLE.

SPRINGS.

STEERING

FRONT AXLE

BRAKES

WHEELS.

CONTROLS.

ITS LEADING FEATURES

. Full '" I,ngth. 9 ft. 3 in. (2.821mm.); Full "" width4 ft. 2in. 0.270 mm.); Wh"lh",. 6 ft. 3 in. 0.905 mm.)T"ck. 3 ft. 4 in. (1.016 mm.); W,ight. .pprox. 8! cwt.(425 kg.). Ground d,,"nce 8i in. (220 mm.).

. Four-cylind". w",,-cool,d. d""h.bl, hood.Bore. 2.2in. (56mm.)l 7475 R AC t

'7 8S k J

.(76 ) .u.. ..."mg., .p.tro '. m. mm. I

B"k, hor"-pow,,, 1O5.t 2.400rev.Ignition, Coil.Oil ,ireulotion, by pump.Cooling, Th"mo-'ypbon with film "di.tor .nd f.n.Roll" a.nhh.ft b,oring,.

. EI,"ri,,1.

. Singl'-pl.to,

. Three 'p"d, forword. .nd re",",; "tio, , 4.9 to I. 9 to I..nd 16to I ; rm,",. 21 to I ; B.II b"ring, througbout.

. t-fleating. with diff",nti.1 and torqu, tub,.B.II bearing, .nd thru,t, throughout. Finol drive by ,baft.nd hdi,,1 bml. '

. !-,lIiptic ao," 'pring in front.Quort" ,lIipti" .t rear.Sbock .b,orb", or, fitt,d to front .nd rw.

. Worm .nd wh"l. boving provi,ion for't.king up w"r

Forg,d. "H" ""ion.

On all four wh"h; componoat,d.nd ",ily .dju,tabl,. Hondb"k, to th, front wh"J.. F~t b"k, to th, reor wh"J..

. Sp"ial wire d""habl,. fitt,d with 26in. X 350 in. Dunlopballoon reinfore,d cord tyr". On, 'p.re wh,,1 with tyr,.

. Ball chang' 'p"d gm Imrand b"k, I"". mount,d cent"lIy.e., .nd ignition controliov", mounted on th, ,twing wh,oJ.Foot .«dmtor ;, .1.0 provid,d.

PETROL TANK. 4 gallon,.

LIGHTING. By ."r-driven dyn.mo. with .«umul.to," .nd dimm".

BODYWORK. . Two buck,t ".t, for driver and p,,"ng". th.t for th, driv"b,ing .dju,tabl, and th.t for th, p""ng" b,ing hing,d toallow 'ot"oce to th, reor"". Rw ",t to ""y two or thre,children. Ampl, tool "commod.tion und" ",t,. Sp.rewh,oJ .nd tyre ",ri,d on b.d of cor. On touring mod,l.hood. doubl, ""'n. .nd full ,id, "'"n, (tho"ov" th, doo,"op'n with th,m). Ehtric horn. .od 'p"dom"". .utom.ti,wind,a"n wip". driving mirror .nd licen" hold".

WORKMANSHIP AND MATERIALS. . Au,tin qu.lity.

INSURANCE. . Sp"i.1 In,u"nce h" been ."og,d .t £8 18,. 9d. p" .nnum.""pt for "'" gor.ged within 10 mil" of town, with. popu-lotion exceeding 250.000for which"'" th, .nnu.1 premium;, £11 3'.9d.

6

,

7

1

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.Give the engine a few turns withtho starting handle to make sure thatthe crankshaft is free (pushing thehandle in to engage fully with thestarting nut, before turning it), thenswitch on,turning the left-hand switchto "Summer t Charge" or "WinterFull C:' Pull out the wire on theinstrument board to close the car-

buretter air inlet, and again give thecrankshaft a few sharp turn, bymeans of the starting handle, making sure to pull the handle upwardsto commence with, or firmly press the starter switch. Be sure torelease the air shutter wire after the engine has started. Do not tryto start the engine when cold by the electric starter, nor allow theengine to race when first starting Up, as time must be allowed forthe oil to circulate and lubricate various bearings.

Never leave the ignition switch on for any lengthy period whilethe engine is not running. The warning lamp on the switch boardwill remind you of this.

Difficulty in StartingDifficulty in starting may be caused either through sucking

too much petrol into the cylinders, or too little. When startingwith the throttle all but closed, a strong suction takes effect onthe pilot jet, and it may not be necessary to flood .the carburetter;in any case it should only be flooded slightly. If petrol is passingthrough the carburetter the suction can generally be heard. If theengine fails to start and there is a good deal of petrol overflowingfrom the carburetter it is almost certain that the mixture getting intothe cylinder is too rich. The throttle should then be opened balf-way to reduce the suction. On firing, the engine will race away, andthe throttle should be almost closed. If the engine does not fireclose the throttle entirely, and try again. After a stop in hot weather,failure of the engine to start is more likely to be due to too rich amixture than one too lean, and one should stop the engine by theswitch only after quite closing the throttle. Re-start the engine withthe throttle closed.

If after the foregoing measures have been carried out the enginefails to start, the reason will probably be due to faulty ignition orcarburation.

IGNITION: First examine the wires and see that the sparkingplugs are connected. Then test the gap of the plug points by meansof the thick end of the gauge provided in the tool kit. If the pointsare dirty, clean them before replacing the plug.

CARBURATION: The slow running jet may be stopped upor a main jet choked. Blow them out with a tyre pump.

The engine should never be allowed to run at high speedsfor the first 300 miles.

The NEW CAR

ON taking possession of a new car it is advisable to give it ageneral examination to see that all is complete and in order.

Make sure that the tool-kit is complete, check it overaccording to the list given on page 50.

If you are not already familiar with Austin cars, we stronglyrecommend that this handbook be carefully studied.

Before running see that the car is supplied with fuel and waterand that the engine and gearbox have the necessary quantities of oil.The battery should contain the required amount of acid. Forquantities of oil and acid see sections "Lubrication" and "ElectricalEquipment:'

Should the car be delivered by road it will be ready for runningbut if it has been transported by rail or overseas, the engine mayhave become stiff through the gumming of the oil on the pistons.They may be freed by the injection of a little petrol into the cylinders.Remove the sparking plugs, pour in about a thimble full of petrol.wait a minute while it percolates, replace the sparking plug and thenturn tbe engine a few revolutions with the starting handle.

When a car is crated for dispatch overseas, water, fuel, and oilare removed and the battery left empty and uncharged.

~

~

Starting the EngineMake sure that the change speed lever is in neutral position and

the hand brake on.Turn on petrol tap at the bottom of the petrol tank (this will be

found under the bonnet).Set the engine control levers at the top of the steering wheel-

Gas-open ahout .~ in. Ignition-almost fully advanced.

8

"'

9

CONTROL OF THE CAR

Setting of Control

"

CHANGING A WHEELThe Spare Wheel

Levers

WHEN it becomes necessary to cbange a wheel because ofa puncture or for any other cause, the spare wheel mustbe lifted from its bracket at the rear of the car, to which

it is fastened by three wheel nuts, in the same way as the wheelsare attached to the hub.

It is important to have the car on level ground. With the wheelbrace the three nuts (A) of the wheel to be removed should beslightly slackened, but only enough for them to unscrew freely later.The wheel is then jacked up. If it is a rear wheel, the jack shouldbe placed under the rear spring anchorage on the axle (or if the car isunavoidably on uneven ground it may be advisable to block thejack up, to increase its lift).

To detach the wheel from the hub loosen the three nuts (A), bymeans of the brace; it is not necessary to remove them entirely.Now pull the wheel outwards about! in. and turn it so that thelarge hole will pass over the nut. For a front wheel this 'can be donemore easily if the hand brake is on so that the hub cannot turn, Witha back wheel, if the brake cable is pulled down to put on the brakewhile the wheel is being attached, tbe movement will be similarlyfacilitated. The wheel can now be pulled off the bubo

Wben replacing make sure tbat the large holes in tbe wheelcentre are properly fitted over their pegs, and tighten the wheel nuts,eachonly a few turns at a time, until they are home.

Should difficulty be experienced upon the first occasion ofremoving the wheel from tbe hub, tbe wbeel nuts may be screwedright off. Before replacing, wipe tbe outside of the brake drum andinside of the bub with an oily rag as this will ease the removal onfuture occasions.

AFTER having started the engine, keep the ignition lever intbe advanced position; should the engine commence to"rumble" or run roughly, retard the lever, but advance

it again as soon as the load on the engine is lessened. The "gas"lever sbould be set generally for slow running and tbe speed of thecar controlled by tbe accelerator pedal.

f

Changing Gear

Double declutching will be found the best metbod of gear changingon the Austin Seven and should be adopted straigbt away. Alsowhen changing up the foot sbould be taken off the acceleratorpedal, and when changing to a lower gear it should be held down.The car should be well accelerated on each speed when changing up,and a deliberate pause should be made with the gear lever in neutralposition and with tbe clutch in whetber changing up or down.

..

Always change gear carly on a hill; never allow the engine tolabour in any gear and expect it to pick up speed on changing into

a lower one when the car hasnearly stopped.

When descending a longhill, supplement the action ofthe foot-brake at intervals bythe use of the hand.brake forbrief periods. It is often ad.

visable to engage one of tbe lower gears before commencing a steepdescent, with throttle closed. When using the brake, keep theclutch in, disengaging it at the last moment if stopping the car.

Keep the foot off the clutchpedal except in heavy traffic.Even tben, do not allow theweight of the foot to be takenby tbe pedal. Tbe slippingof tbe clutch caused by tbispractice beats and wears itbadly.

I

I

The driving seat of the Austin Seven is adjustable for positionand this convenience should be taken advantage of so as to obtainthe greatest comfort.

NUT A

10 11

u "I

ON this and the opposite page is a handy summaryof all the attentions descrihed in this handbook.The attentions under the daily, weekly, and

monthly headings are based on the assumption thatthe maximum mileage per week does not exceed 300.

The occasional attentions should not be neglectedif the car is to continue to run efficiently. Whenreferring to the attentions below, see the lubricationchart. .

!

f

4. Inject high speed grease (such as Messrs.Stern's" Diamol") into the universal jointat the rear end of the propellor shaft andyellow grease into the front end of the torquetube.

5. Test the tyres for correct pressure and examinethem for cuts.

6. Give one turn to the cap of the lubricator forthe main distributor bearing.

PERIODICALATTENTIONS

2. Examine oil level in the crankcase and addmore oil if necessary. The tell-tale dipperrod indicates the level of the oil.

Monthly Attentions

1. Examine the oil level in the gearbox whichshould contain two-thirds of a pint, or measure2-2t in. deep. .

2. Charge the back axle case with a gunful ofthe special oil mentioned, using the specialadapter on the grease gun.

3. Fill all the-hubs with grease, as described.later.

4, Charge with grease the steering worm casethrough the nipple.

5. J;:xamine the battery and see that theconnections are tight.

6. Give a charge of grease to the nipple on thefan spindle.

Daily Attentions

1. Examine water level in radiator and fill upto within 2 in. of the top. Always use thestrainer when re-filling as dirty water willcause the radiator film to become choked.

3. Fill up the petrol tank if necessary. Careshould be exercised not to overfill the tankand spill the petrol over the engine. Occasional Attentions

Weekly Attentions1. With the grease gun charge-

Front spring shackle pins (4).Rear spring pins (2).Front wheel swivel pins (2).Steering cross tube (2).

2. Oil the following~Handbrake gear.Pedal gear and joints.Engine control joints.Clutch release ring.Rear brake cam spindles (2).Steering side tube joints (2).

I

I

Examine all bolts and nuts, such as road spring clips, cylinderhead nuts, wheel nuts (these three especially when the car is new),examine other parts such as steering connections, the radius rodanchorage below the gearbox, and the torque tube socket, neglectof which points might be followed by an expensive repair, and theinahility to use the car for a lengthy period.

Occasionally clean the petrol filler and float chamber strainers,the radiator filler strainer, the oil filler strainer, and the oil reservoirgauze (when the engine oil can be changed); also ensure that theoil jets, under the plugs on the crankcase. are clean. Drain thegearbox and refill with fresh oil (j pint).

Flush the radiator through. Clean the ignition distributor,and the contact breaker points (adjust the latter), the dynamo andstarter commutators. Clean and lubricate the shock absorbers,adjust the tappets, and the fan belt, decarbonize the engine andgrind-in the valves. Check the alignment of the front wheels.For details of these attentions refer to the pages that follow.

3. Examine both sets of brakes, and adjust ifnecessary.

12 13

..j

,LUBRICATION CHART The

CARBURETTER

I

THE following notes have reference to the Zenith carburetter,which is adjusted by determining the correct sizes of thechoke tube, main jet and compensator. The purpose of

the choke tube is to obtain the correct velocity of air around the jetin order to get the best mixture at all speeds. The main jet hasmost influence at high speeds. The compensator, which correctsthe irregularities of the main jet flow due to differences in enginespeed, has the greatest influence at slow speeds. Besides thesethree parts there is a special device to provide for slow running.The carburetter is tuned and set at the works to give the best resultsunder ordinary conditions; should the car be taken to districtswhere the atmospheric conditions vary considerably, or a differentfuel be used, it may be advisable to adjust the carburetter accordingly.Before making alterations to the carburetter make quite sure thatthe engine is in good running order, particularly the ignition.~ ~~

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Method of Adjustment

Before altering the carburetter setting, turn off the petrol bymeans of the tap underneath the tank. A jet key is sent out witheach car for the purpose of taking out the main and compensatingjets. The caps below the jets must be removed by means of theadjustable spanner, when the jets can be unscrewed with the specialkey. When replacing either, make sure that they have washerson them, well down on the shoulder.

II

I

To remove the choke tube it is necessary to separate the car-buretter from the induction manifold flange, first having dis-connected the throttle and air strangler controls and the petrolpipe at its union on the float chamber. The throttle fixing screwshould then be removed, allowing the throttle spindle to be with-drawn and the throttle to be lifted from the carburetter bore. Onunscrewing the choke tube locking screw, the choke tube willusually fall clear if the carburetter is turned upside down; in anyevent a slight tap will usually loosen it. When refitting a choketube make sure that its narrowest internal diameter is downwards,and that it beds down on the ledge round the bottom of the car-buretter bore; then the locking screw can be tightened. Whenrefitting the carburetter to the induction manifold, ensure that thereis a good joint between the flanges.

15

14

"

Poor AccelerationWhen picking up is bad, or when it is impossible to obtain a

sharp acceleration no matter what size of compensator is used, thechoke tube is too large. The tests for "pick.up" should be madeon the level. Let the car run at a good speed, slow down slightly;then press the accelerator down sharply as far as it will go. Thecar should then quickly pick up its previous speed without hesitation.

No Power

If, instead of accelerating, the engine stops, try larger compen.sators. If, in spite of this, the picking up is not good, the choketube is too large, in which case fit another, one or two millimeterssmaller, and try again until the acceleration is improved.

When the car gets away badly, and popping.back occurs in thecarburetter when accelerating, the main jet is too small. Thispopping.back occurs at irregular intervals, and the engine haslittle power and cannot drive the car at a high speed. Fit largerjets until these explosions in the inlet pipe disappear and then testuntil the right jet has been found, as indicated in previous paragraph.

I

The popping. back may also be due to air leaking into the inductionpipe through joints which are not air.tight, to leakage at the extraair valve. or to the valves not dosing properly. Test the tappetdearances by the thin blade of the sparking plug and tappet dearancegauge. In some cases popping back is due to the engine being cold,and will cease when it has been runnin~ for a little time.

KNURLEDSCREW B LO~ --

LOCK]NGSCREW A

LCOMPENSATlNG JET

A]R HOLE

Irregular FiringCHOKETUBE

MA]N JET I

The trialS of different compensators should take place up anindine, with the engine driving the car in top gear at from 5 to 8m.p.h. The compensator is too large when the engine at thisspeed runs with an irregular, jerkY motion; the hunting whichtakes place at high speed in the case of too large a main jet is foundat low speeds with too large a compensator. The size of thecompensator is decreased until all the cylinders fire evenly and theexhaust is quite regular. As in the case of the main jet, if twocompensators give equal.results, choose the smaller on the scoreof economy. The compensator plays a great part in the picking.upbut when the size of the former is determined according to the abovemethod, it is generally suitable for an excellent acceleration.

CAPS

The Zenith corhn"tter, type 22FZ. The "andard ,ettlng i"choke tnhe IS, matn Jet 70, compen,.ting Jet 75, ,low rnnnlng

tnhe 26.35.

Lack of SpeedWith too small a choke tube the pick.up is excellent but the

speed attained on the level with the accelerator right down isinsufficient-a larger choke tube is then fitted, and the jet alteredproportionally, when the tests are continued until a satisfactorymaximum speed is attained.

! Slow Running Device

Choking and" Hunting"To ascertain the correct size of the main jet, the test is also made

on the level at high speed. A jet which is much too large causeschoking. and the engine often runs jerkily and hunts. The petrolconsumption is also excessive. The jet that gives the greatestspeed on the level is chosen. If two jets give an equal speed, choosethe smaller on the score of economy.

I

Note that too much petrol for slow running causes chokingand hesitation in pick.up. A want of petrol, on the other hand,causes a loss of power and misfiring at the same time. It is thereforenecessary to regulate the slow running as carefully as possible.By first releasing the lock nut and then turning the knurled screw Bto the right a greater flow of petrol is obtained, while it can be cutdown by turning the screw to the left.

This device can be drawn out after releasing the lock.nut and

slackening the round.headed screw A on the side. It is possibleto unscrew the lower half C, from the upper with a pair of pliers,in order to see if it is dear.

1617

,

r

There are other factors quite apart from the carburetter whichhave great influence on slow running (slow running when theengine is out of gear and the car is stationary).

These factors are:-

Joints not air-tight. Valve guides worn. Valves not seating.Ignition too much advanced.

Engine Misfires and StopsIn tests made as in the last instance, the engine misses fire now

and again, the transmission receives jerks, and the engine finally.stops. In this case fit a larger compensator until the engine runsregularly.

The Float ChamberPetrol leakage from the float chamber may be due to the caps

under the jets not being tight, or a' leaking petrol pipe union. Ifno leakage seems possible at these points, suspect float chamberderangement, which is causing petrol to overflow the jets. It maybe that the float control is out of adjustment, the float may beperforated, or the needle not seating properly owing to dirt on theneedle seating. The remedy for the last mentioned defect is obvious;the first two defects should be left to an expert to remedy. Whenreplacing the float chamber cover, ensure that the needle has enteredits seating, and is free to be moved by the float; also that the coverbeds down properly, then secure it with the dip.

Petrol FlowIf the petrol supply from the tank is unrestricted, yet difficult,

starting points to insufficient petrol. there is a restriction somewherein the carburetter. First, see that the air vent in the float chambercover, under the retaining dip, is dear. Should it be so, the nextpoint to examine is the filter below the float chamber, and thepassage from it to the needle seating. Access to this filter is givenby removing the petrol pipe union and unscrewing the petrol inletnut, on the bottom of the float chamber.

The slow running tube and jet may be stopped up. Removethe slow running tube bodily, having loosened its locking screw.In the bottom of the tube is a small filter which can be prised outand deaned. The bottom portion of the tube, comprising the jet,may be then unscrewed from the top pbrtion, and the jet deanedif stopped up: two flats on the jet allow a small spanner to be usedto unscrew it. Lastly the compensating or main jets may be choked.Remove them and dear them. Never insert anything in any of thejets; always blow through to clear them; a tyre pump can beused if desired. When refitting the slow running tube ensure thatit beds down to its collar at the top, with the small projection underthe collar fitting the groove in the carburetter casting, then tightenthe locking screw.

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Difficulty in StartingThis may be due to several causes-

Float chamber air vent stopped up. See previous page.Slow running tube stopped up. See previous page.Plug points too far apart. See" Ignition System."Ignition lever badly placed. See next paragraph.Jets choked up. See previous page.

With variable ignition there is generally a particularly favourablesetting for easy starting. One who is continually using a car soonrecognises this position.~

fSTANDARD REPAIR

CHARGESI

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THE following adjustments and repairs described in thishandbook are induded in the Austin Seven Schedule of

Charges for Repairs, which quotes over one hundred prices forrepairs to the Austin Seven.

Greasing spring shackles. steering and brake, and other smallconnections.

Ditto, but induding rear axle, universal joint. steering box andfront hubs.

Taking down, deaning and greasing all road springs, reassemblingwith new bolts and bushes where required.Dismantling shock absorbers, then deaning and adjusting andrefixing.Adjusting and compensating brakes.Relining brakes, front or rear,Removing cylinder head; decarbonising and grinding in valvesadjusting tappets and tuning-up engine on the road.Fitting new cylinder head and/or gasket.Adjusting valve tappets, cleaning and adjusting contact breaker,distributor and sparking plugs; cleaning out carburetter jets.Fitting new valves.Removing base chamber, cleaning oil filter, examining interiorof engine, and refilling with new oil.Removing dynamo from car; cleaning and adjusting, examiningbattery and connections. and refilling battery with acid as required.Tracking up front wheels by adjusting length of cross steeringtube.

Adjusting mesh of steering worm and wheel.Owners will find it to their advantage to have their car adjustmentsand repairs effected by Austin agents at these standard prices.

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THE recommendations that follow apply to the C.A.V.Lucas ignition equipment.

The set should be examined occasionally and the followingattentions given, only if they seem necessary.

The distributor cover can be removed on springing aside its twosecuring clips (8). The electrodes and the inside of thecover are then accessible for cleaning with a dry duster. The

contact breaker pointscan be similarly cleanedif required. The gapbetween the pointswhen fully opened, isset originally at 20thousandth of an inch.Normally this gap willnot require adjustmen tuntil a considerablemileage has been cov-ered, unless the pointshave burned. The workof re.setting the points,when this has occurred,should be left to askilled mechanic. Forthe normal adjustment,first turn the engineby the starting handleuntil the points areseen to be fully open.Then slacken the lock-nut (D) with theignition spanner, andturn the screw of themovable point until thegap is set to the thick-ness of the gauge onthe side of the spanner.The lock-nut must thenbe re.tightened.

7

The IGNITION

The Distributor

Th. ""ributor ,howiog A, th. di'tributormouldIng; B, th. "'ndng .pdng' lor th.montdlng; C, th. <onta<,,; D, th. lo<klngnn, lor tb. adJna.ahl. oontact poInt; E. .h.rotating <am; F, C.I.<onh..,; G, th. oilhol.lor th. wI<k th.t Inhrleat" th. <am; H, tb.<otatlng arm olth. dl'tribntor; J, th"pdng<on'a" lor th. hIgh Io.,ion <omn.; and M,.b., groasor for .fi. dl"rlbntor drlv. ,pindl..

The Coil

1

SYSTEM The Ignition SwitchThe left-hand switch on the switchboard, additional to con-

trolling the dynamo charge, serves as an ignition switch. Theswitch should be always turned to the" OFF" position whenthe engine is not running, so that the battery does not dischargeby the current continuing to flow through the coil windings.

I The Warning LampThe warning lamp on the switchboard will light when the switch

is at " Summer t Charge" or "Winter Full c." and the engine isnot running. This lamp also lights when the engine is only idling.Should the bulb of the warning lamp fail, it can be unscrewed fromits socket when the small cover plate holding the red glass is removed.The replacement bulb should be of 8-9 volt, and must be screwedright home to make contact.

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LubricationOnly two points require lubrication; both are on the distributor.

Every 500 miles give two turns to the lubricator for the distributorshaft. When the lubricator is empty, unscrew its cap, and repackit with grease. A few drops of thin machine oil can be given to thecam lubrication wick, through the hole at "G," whenever the wickseems dry. To over lubricate these parts is far worse than to underlubricate them.

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Ignition FaultsIgnition trouble will seldom arise. If it does, look to the following

points.When the engine will not fire, or fires erratically, the trouble

may arise from the carburetter, or petrol supply and not the ignition.A partially choked jet, an incorrect petrol level, or air leaks intothe induction system may be the faults. Equally sooted plugs canbe suspected, when dismantling and cleaning them will remedythe trouble. If the battery has run down, or its terminals haveworked loose, quite obviously there will be no spark, and the sameresults can be expected if the distributor electrodes and contactbreaker have been neglected and are dirty.

The coil can be tested by removing the cable from the centresocket on the distributor cover, and holding the end of this cable,about t inch from some metal part of the car, while the ignitionswitch is on and the engine is turned. A strong and regular sparkwill result if the coil is in order. Clean the top of the coil, andensure that its terminals are tight before making this test.

To test for short circuits in the Iow tension wiring (the cablesfrom the switchboard to coil. coil to distributor, and distributor tochassis) which would equally cause irregular running, have theengine turned while the ignition is switched .on, and watch theammeter reading. It should rise and fall as the contact breaker

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4

The coil needs no attention apart from keeping the terminalstight and the top clean.

20 21

points close and open. This test will also indicate if the contacthreaker is functioning correctly. If the contacts remain open, ordo not fully close, the reading will not fluctuate.

If the high tension cables from tbe distributor to the plugs, are notpushed home into their sockets in the distributor, misfiring willsimilarly occur. Or, if the rubber insulation on these cables showsigns of perishing and cracking, there may be leakage of the currentgiving rise to the same symptoms. Renewing the cables is then theremedy.

If after verifying these points, the trouble remains undiscovered.the equipment should be examined and tested by the nearest servicedepot of the makers.

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advanced, and the ignition lever on the steering wheel is set at thefull advanced position.

The ignition leads will pull out of their sockets on the distributorcover. Remove the cover by springing back the two securing clips.The small screw on the clip fixing the control arm to the distributor

casing is slack-ened, the clipbeing kept at thefull advancedposition, and thecasing turned anti-clockwise until thecontact breakerpoints just beginto open. The screwshould then be re-tightened. Thedirection in whichthe rotating armof the distributoris pointing shouldbe noted, and thedistributor coverrefitted, and se-cured in its properposition by thetwo clips. A small

projection on the casing fits in a recess near one of the clips tosecure the distributor cover in its correct position.

G

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When Leaving the CarWhen the car has to be parked or left in the street for any period.

the distributor cover can be lifted, and the rotating distributor armremoved from its mounting above the cam; it just pulls off withoutturning. The car is then secure against any attempts at theft, andthe distributor arm can be carried in the pocket until the car is to beused again. When refitting it, note that the projection up inside itsmoulding, fits the slot cut in the top of the spindle on which itmounts, so that it is located for correct timing.

TIMING THE IGNITIONIn the event of the distributor (with or without'the dynamo) being

removed from the car, upon replacement, the timing of the ignitionmust be re-set.

The first operation is to remove all the sparking plugs, exceptthe front-No. I-and turn the crankshaft by the starting handleuntil compression is felt. This means that No. I cylinder will bethe next one to fire.

Replacing the LeadsWith the cover replaced, push the ignition lead for No. I cylinder

into the socket above the segment towards which the distributorrotating arm is facing, as previously noted, and insert the otherleads in their sockets.

Flywheel Timing Marks

Then remove the starter motor with its casing (inside the car)by unscrewing the securing studs, one on each side of the casing,and lifting the assembly clear vertically off the locating dowel on thecrankcase. A line will be seen on the back of the flywheel, markedI and 4 (see illustration on page 28). The line is parallel to thethrows of the crankshaft, and when this line is vertical it naturallyfollows that Nos. I and 4 pistons are at the top of their stroke. Inthis case, however, we are only dealing with No. I. Now turn theflywheel until this line is I i in. to 2 in. before the top centre. (Wecannot quote a definite figure as this depends on the characteristicsof the particular engine). This is the position at which the sparkshould take place at the sparking plug, when the ignition is fully

The distributor arm rotates clockwise, so working round thecover in a clockwise direction the lead for No. 3 cylinder should befitted next, and then the leads for cylinders 4 and 2, this being thefiring order.

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If after this the ignition seems too much or too little advanced,it can be adjusted by loosening the clamping screw of the controlclip and moving the casing relative to the clip a slight amount,anti-clockwise to advance the timing, or clockwise to retard. Onlyan extremely small movement is required, then tighten the screw.When refitting the starter motor and casing, after timing, the longerset screw is for the near side of the casing.

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TheCOOLING SYSTEM

The entire circnlating system shonld be thoroughly flushed outoccasionally. To do this open. the drain tap at the bottom, placea hose in the filler, and run fresh water through.

Trouble arising from a damaged radiator generally necessitatesits dismantling and despatch to a repair depot.

THE cooling of the engine is maintained by a capacious radiatorwhich should be filled, with rain water, if available, up towithin 2 in. of the top of the filler. The capacity of the

radiator, pipes and cylinder jackets is 9-10 pints.

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In Cold WeatherCare should be taken to see that the water is drained off com-

pletely, for, in case of freezing, it will do harm by lodging in smallspaces and fracture of the cylinder block may result. In GreatBritain, the climate does not very often call for the cooling system tobe drained, but it is well to err on the right side and take due pre-caution against damage if frost be threatened.

Glycerine mixed with tbe water will reduce its freezing point byseveral degrees. If added it should be in the proportion of 15% to20%. In cold weather use the Austin radiator muff.

To prevent the gradual formation of deposits in the coolingsystem, with consequent impeding of the circulation, the use ofhard water should be avoided. Rain-water, syphoned from thetop of the barrel where it is clean, should be used, or, failing that.water that has been boiled.

How To USE THEGREASE GUN

Causes of OverheatingOverheating may be attributed to one or more of the following ~

Slack fan belt. The belt can be tightened by turning the fan.spindle in its bracket after loosening the clamping'nut.Excessive carbon deposit in cylinders. See "Running Adjust-ments."

Running with ignition too far retarded.Using oil of poor quality, or lack of oil in the reservoir. Se","Engine Lubrication."Partial choking of the oil jets. See "Engine Lubrication."Improper carburetter adjustment, giving a mixture too rich ortoo weak. See "The Carburetter."

Screw the handle right out. Unscrew the extension piece by theknurled nut at the base of the barrel and fill the barrel with grease;then replace. Give the handle one complete turn: this fills thetelescopic extension piece at the end of the gun which will project.Now place the end of the gun on the nipple attached to that part ofthe car which it is desired to grease, and push. The extension piececloses and discharges the grease into the nipple.

Give the handle another turn and the gun is once more charged.Continue until the barrel is empty and then refill.

For the back axle a special adapter is used on the gun in placeof the standard telescopic end. This adapter screws into the axle,in place of the plug. When replacing the plug, po not omit itswasher. It is important not to let dirt get into the adapter which,when not in use, is screwed on to the side of the gun.

DON'T ,.,

Don't, please don't-Don't leave the car in gear with the handbrake off.Don't make a fast run with the radiator muff down.Don't fill the r~diator with cold water when the engine is hot.Don't try to turn the engine without first pushing the starting-handle

in to engage fully with the starting nut.Don't be cruel to the starter if the engine will not fire.Don't put an excessive quantity of lubricant in the gear box.Don't pour oil into the engine with the strainer removed.Don't forget the ignition switch when starting up.Don't leave the ignition switched on when the engine is not running.Don't coast with the engine running and the clutch held out.Don't run the engine in a closed garage. (The exhaust gases are

highly toxic and a very small amount in a restricted atmospherewill produce grave, if not fatal, results).

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Failure of water to circulate, because of choked radiator tubes.water level below the tops of the radiator tubes, or loss of waterthrough leakage from connections.

Overcooling is almost as bad as overheating. If the engine tend"to be too cool, use a radiator muff, or possibly, in winter, the fan.belt can be removed without the engine running too hot.

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Choice of Lubricants

EVERYengine and gearbox is tested and filled with oil suppliedby the Vacuum Oil Co., Ltd. The grade we recommendboth for winter and summer use is Mobiloil BR

The following oils are approved ;-

Sterns W.W. Heavy, Prices Motorine C, Triple Shell, Castrolc.L., Filtrate Extra Heavy, Dudkhams Adcol N.P. 3-4, SpeedolineB. Heavy, Speedwell Sans Egal Zero, Royal Snowdrift 3, andVeedal Heavy No. 4.

Use ordinary "engine" oil in a small can, and ordinary yellowgrease for greasing.

Both these lubricants can be obtained from any garage or repairshop.

Use Stern's "Diamol" or Price's High Speed Grease for therear universal joint of the drive shaft.

For the rear axle use Jaba Oil (Johnsons Austin Backaxle Oil)or Whitmores Auto Gear Compound No. 9 Winter.

The Engine

For the engine, where the approved oils are not obtainable, oilof approximately the same constituents and viscosity should beused. If the oil is too thick it will tend to clog and carbonise, andif too thin it might lead to scoring of the pistons and bearings.Assurance that the system is functioning is given to the driver bymeans of the tell-tale button on the instrument board, which willprotrude when the engine is started.

It is essential that all receptacles for oil be kept perfectlyclean. Dirty oilleads to unduewear of allbearings,or might even clogup the oilingsystem and preventit ~orking, thuscausmg an engmeseizure and muchtrouble and ex-pense. The oilfiller strainer (A)is detachable forcleaning. After thefirst 500-800milesrunning, drain theoriginal oil from

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the reservoir by removing the plug in the bottom, while the engineis hot. Drain the reservoir completely.. Never pour oil into theengine except through the strainer.

After the first re-filling it is advisable to change the oil in theengine entirely after every 1,200 to 1,500 miles running or sooner.

Every 2,400-3.000 miles remove the oil reservoir. The gauzeoil tray will then be accessible for removal. Scrupulously clean thegauze and remove all dirt from inside the reservoir and replacethem. Carefully remake the joint with the packing washer, coveringboth sides of it with grease. When tightening up the nuts holdingthe oil reservoir to the crankcase, do not pull up one nut tight, buttighten each nut equally, a little at a time. See that the drainplugis screwed up tight, then fill the crankcase with oil to the maximumlevel as shown on the dipper rod, B. About half a gallon will beenough to fill.

Always inspect the level of the oil and add, enough to fill, to thecorrect level before starting on a long journey.

The oil level should not be allowed to go below 1: inch on thebottom of the dipper rod. It is advisable to wipe the dipper rodbefore taking the reading of the level, and the reading should onlybe taken when the engine is not running and the car is on the levelground.

The main bearings of the engine are of the roller type, and theoily vapour in the crankcase is quite sufficient to lubricate these.

The pistons are also lubricated by the oily vapour.

Lubrication of the big-ends is effected by catching oil from thepump-fed jets in pockets on the crankshaft webs. .

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It is advisable to make sure tbese jets are always clear and to doso the plngs over the jets (see illustration) should be occasionallyremoved and a piece of stiff wire, not above 10 in. diameter, insertedthrough the jets. This prevents foreign matter accumulating inthe jets and choking them.

Gearbox

A suitable oil for the gearbox is the same as that used in theengine; but if for any reason another brand of oil is used it shouldbe of about the same consistency and no thicker, otherwise it willnot reach all the bearings. The depth of the oil should never beless than I in. or more than 2t in. It can be measured by the enginedipper rod inserted through the filler plug hole, but not while theengine is running. The maximumquantity is approximately% pint.The correct oil level should be maintained; excess of oil will leakfrom the bearings and seriously affect the clutch, causing it to slip;on the other hand there must be sufficient oil to prevent wear.

The gearbox should be drained entirely after the first 500-800miles, and then after every 4,000 or 5,000 miles, when any grit,etc., which may have collected will drain away through the plug holein the sump.The gearboxd r a i n piu g IFLYWHEELholds the clutchpit drainholecover in positionand this shouldbe replacedwhen the drainplug is refitted.

Clutch r w ~j',\The clutch ~surfaces bemgof a fabric material must be kept free from oil and grease, or theclutch will fail to grip. It is necessary to lubricate the operatingring at point A, as shown on the sketch, once a week with oil.

Steering GearTo obtain easy steering it is important to give it regular attention

as regards lubrication. The grease gun nipple is on the top of theworm case, and if a charge is given once a month. it is sufticientto lubricate the bearings of the worm and worm wheel and alsolubricate the worm itself. However, if too much grease is injectedat this point, it will get up the column and exude round the steeringwheel. The bearing at the top of the column, just under the

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steering wheel can be given a little oil from the oil-can. The steeringconnections on the side rod are best lubricated by means of anoil-can which ejects the oil under pressure, into the sockets, andthe nipple, at the end of the cross rod should be given a charge ofgrease once a week.

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Rear AxleFor the rear axle, attention every 1,200 to 1,500 miles should

be sufficient. Jaba Oil or Auto Gear Compound as mentionedpreviously should be used. It is injected into the axle, using thespecial adapter on the grease gun barrel (in place of the telescopicend) whicH screws into the centre casing of the axle when the smallplug has been removed with a f. in. box spanner. The gun handleis screwed down to inject the oil. When replacing the plug see thatthe washer is not omitted. Do not inject too much at anyone timeas the felt rings will fail to hold the lubricant in the axle case, and itwill then leak through on to the brakes and prevent them from beingeffective.

If possible one of these oils should always be used, but in caseswhere supplies are not immediately procurable, obtain a worm oil ora gear oil of medinm viscosity.

Rear Universal JointFor the rear universal joint a good quality "high speed" grease

should be used. This is of a dark brown colour, and will remainin the joint longer than the ordinary yellow grease.

The rear univer al joint being of metal should be one of thepoints to have strict weekly attention. The car is moveduntil the plug in the universal joint is facing upwards (if it is notalready so) and the grease is injected by means of the grease gunusing the special screw-in adaptor. Access is gained by movingaside a small cover in the floor of the body. This same cover givesaccess to the nipple on the end of the torque tube which shouldreceive ordinary yellow grease every week.

Brake GearOn each of the rear brakes there is a lubricator for oiling the

cam spindle bearing. These and all other joints, etc., should beoiled once a week.

The front brake cam spindle is lubricated from the swivel pinas shown at E, in the illustration further on.

Front AxleThe swivel pins are lubricated with the grease gun and should

receive attention once a week.

Radius Rod AnchorageOil should be applied occasionally to the cups and ball flange,

forming the radius rod anchorage on the front cross member, justbelow the rear of the gearbox.

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Windscreen WiperA drop of thin oil should be oCaisionally applied to the wind-

screen wiper mechanism-say, once a month. A small screw(except in the T rico model) is removable from the top of the casingallowing the oil to be injected.

Fan

The fan bearing requires a charge of grease once a month throughthe nipple on the fan bracket.

Grease NipplesIf a grease nipple gets choked, unscrew and remove it. It can

usually be deared by soaking it in paraffin or petrol, and syringingeither of these through it, but should it be found impossible to dearit, fit a new nipple in its place.

.,

GREASENIPPLE

SWIVEL PI NLOCKING PIN

T." rCO"'hob;" ",do". ,h""'", ,he"",e ,I", A.

BRAKE LEVER CONNECTION

Road SpringsThe ends of the road springs where they are attached to the axles

are provided with grease gun connections, and should, be given acharge once a week if the air is continually used. After a longperiod of use it is advisable to lubricate the leaves of the springwith a warm mixture of white lead and tallow in equal parts. Thisain best be applied with a stiff brush, the leaves being eased apartby a screwdriver; first jack up the air, not under the axles, nor theradius rods, but under the frame to take the weight off the springs.The rear of the car can be jacked up one side at a time. The bestpoint of the frame at which to apply the jack is each end of the rearcross-member. At the front, as there is only one transverse spring,the whole of the air must be lifted, and as a safety measure, the rearwheels should be "scotched" to prevent the car running off thejack. A short stiff bar is placed across the frame, just forward of theengine oil reservoir, and behind the spring, and the jack lifts theair from the centre of this bar. It will be necessary to block thejack up for this work, with a wood block, to avoid necessitating anexcessive lift.

not be turned more thantwice to give the maxi.mum charge advisable.

Rear Hubs

Remove the roadwheel. Turn the wheeluntil the nipple" A" isat the top. Inject greaseinto the hub; if thehandle of the gun is giventwo turns the grease willbe sufficient for ordinarymaintenance purposes.

FrontlHubs

Remove the road wheel. Turn the hub until the plug "A" is atthe top. Screw out the plug and screw in the adapter which isprovided in the kit.

Other Points

WHEEL NUT

A ,e,do" or ,he "" bob. ,bow;..' ,he"",I. A.

Fill the hub with grease. It is important that the hubs are notgiven too much grease, otherwise it will penetrate to the brakesto render them ineffective. The handle of the grease.gun should

OCaisionally give a drop or so of oil to the engine control joints,the door locks, the hood frame hinges, and all other small workingjoints. This will keep them working smoothly without wear,which would ultimately cause rattle.

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ELECTRICALEQUIPMENT

Never use the starting motor to propel the car, as it throws toosevere a strain on the battery and the motor.

If the engine does not start at the first attempt, do not press thestarter switch until the engine has come to rest. If this precautionis not adopted, the starter ring teeth on the flywheel cover, or thestarter pinion teeth, may be damaged.THE lighting and starting units on the Austin Seven car

are arranged for wiring on the single wire system, the returnpath of the current being provided by the frame instead of a

second wire. It is essential that all units are in metallic contactwith the frame.

Should difficulties arise that cannot be understood or remediedfrom the information given below, application should at once bemade to the Austin Service Department or the nearest servicedepot of the makers of the equipment.

Switchbox

The switchbox houses two switcheS controlling the lighting andcharging circuits, a centre-zero ammeter and the ignition warninglight. The charging switch is also arranged so that in the "off"position it breaks the ignition circuit, thus obviating the necessityof a separate switch.

Dynamo

The dynamo is a simple self-re~lating third brush machine.The only parts calling for any attention are the commutator andbrushes, which are readily accessible when the clip secured coveris removed. The commutator surface must be kept clean and freefrom any oil or brush dust. It may be cleaned with ordinary softrag but if it bas been neglected use fine glass paper. Blow awayany carbon dust, see tbat the carbon brushes are wearing evenlyand move freely in tbeir holders. To fit a new brush it is onlynecessary to release the brush tag, hold back the brush trigger andthen withdraw the worn brush from its holder. The new brushcan then be fitted by reversing the above operations.

The dynamo bearings are packed with grease before leaving theworks and need very little attention. A few drops of ordinaryengine oil, however, may be added through the lubricator nearthe mounting flange, say every 1,000 miles. The owner iscautioned that far more trouble is caused by excessiveoiling than by too little,

Switch Positions

Each switch has three positions. Left hand switch (I) "OFF"position-dynamo not charging and ignition off. (2) "Summer tCharge" posiiion-ignition operating and dynamo charging withhalf its normal output. (3) "Winter Full C" position-ignitionoperating and dynamo charging with its full output. Right handswitch (I) "OFF" position-all lamps off. (2) "S" position-headlamps dim and tail lamp. (3) "H" position-headlamps bright,and tail lamp. Switching on lamps automatically puts, the dynamoon full charge. ,~

Ammeter

Starting MotorThe commutator is accessible on removing the clip secured

cover. The unit requires very little attention beyond keepingthe commutator clean and free from oil, brush dust, etc., as in thecase of the dynamo. Before starting from cold do not neglectthe preliminary precautions that you would observe if starting byhand, such as flooding, the carburetter, etc.' Remember thatalthough the starter will turn the engine over, however stiff, it isadvisable to crank the engine over by hand two or three revolutionsas this will considerably diminish the load for starting.

If the starter pinion jams in mesh with the flywheel ring whenoperating the starting motor switch, usually it can be released byputting the gear lever into top gear, and moving the car bodilybackward and forward. If this plan is ineffectual the starter willhave to be dismantled.

The centre zero ammeter indicatesthe rate at which the battery is beingcharged or discharged under all con-ditions. For instance suppose 2amperes are consumed when the dimlamps and tail lamp are switched on,and that the ignition coil takes 2'amperes, then if the dynamo isgenerating 7 amperes the meter willshow 3 amperes on the charge side ofthe scale. This is the current in ex-cess of the lamp and ignition load thatis available for charging purposes.

The ammeter gives an indication that the system is functioningsatisfactorily. For example if no reading is given on the chargeside of the scale when the ignition and charging switch is in the"Winter Full C" position and the car is running at say 20 m.p.h.with no lights on, then a fault in the dynamo charging circuit isindicated.

To determine the output of the dynamo, s"'itch off all the lightsand add the amount of current used for ignition (about 2 amperes.at normal speeds) to the reading given on the ammeter.

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The amount of current used for ignition may be somewhat higherthan the above figure when starting. The ammeter does not indicatethe amount of current used by the starter.

Cut-out and FuseThe cut-out and fuse are mounted on the same base, the larger

cover "A" protecting the cut-out and the smaller one the terminalsand fuse. The cut-out automatically closes the charging circuitas soon as the dynamo voltage rises sufficiently above that of the

battery. When the dynamoC

. ~ voltage falls below that of the

~ battery, the reverse actionD takes place, the cut-out opens

CiJ1,A B and thereby prevents theA-C","","~' battery from discharging itselft~~.:'"':~::;,",",,~.through the dynamo.~:~:~::\:~:'".."' . The cut-out is accurately'-".m""""" set before leaving the works,

and does not need any adjustment and is therefore sealed.The cover "B" protecting the fuse holder and terminals is re-

moved by springing up the retaining wire "C".To fit a new'fuse it is only necessary to remove the knurled nut

"D" place one of the spare fuse strips "F" over the post, and thenreplace and tighten up the nut.

Should it be found that the fuse is continually blowing,do not use two or more strips to prevent this occurring,but have the equipment thoroughly examined to find outthe cause of the trouble.

BatteryIt is of the utmost importance that the battery receives

regular attention, as upon its good condition depends the satis-factory running of the starting motor, the functioning of the ignition,and the illumina-tion of the lamps.

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RegularInspection

At least oncea month the vent

plugs in the top ofthe battery shouldbe removed andthe level of theacid solution ex-

amined. If necessary, distilled water, which can be obtained at allchemists and most garages, should be added to bring the level wellabove the plates. If, however, acid solution has been spilled itshould be replaced by a diluted sulphuric acid solution of 1.285specific gravity. It is important when examining the cells thatnaked lights should not be held near the vents on account of thepossible danger of igniting the gas coming from the plates. It isadvisable to complete the inspection by measuring the specificgravity of the acid, as this gives a very good indication of the state ofcharge of the battery. An instrument known as a hydrometer isemployed for this purpose; this may be obtained at the AustinService Department, or from the service depots of the makers ofthe equipment.

Charging Switch

The charging (left hand) switch should be kept at the positionappropriate to the season. For cars running under average con-ditions this will ensure that the battery is kept in form without beingovercharged. However, in some circumstances it may be advisableto use the switch out of season. Thus if in winter the car is runregularly during the day with practically no night running, resultingin the battery always being fully charged (hydrometer reading 1.285or over), the switch should be kept in the "Summer t Charge"position when the engine is running. Or conversely, if exceptionaluse of the starter and lamps is made in the summer, causing thebattery to be continuously in a low state of charge (hydrometerreadings of 1.200 or under), the switch should be kept at the "WinterFull C" position while the engine is running. Always keep theswitch at the" Off" position when the engine is at rest.

Should the state of the battery be continually bad, see that allits connections through the starter switch to the switchboard aretight and unbroken, and that no wire has a chafed covering, allowingleakage of current to the frame.

The Electrolyte

When the battery arrives empty (as in the case of cars sent abroad)the first thing to do is to fill and charge it.

This means that a fluid is prepared composed of one part (byvolume) of pure brimstone concentrated sulphuric acid with threeparts (by volume) of distilled water. Mix these in a glazed earthen-ware vessel. Great care must be taken in this operation. Add theacid in very small quantities, almost drop by drop, and stir with aglass rod.

Never add the water to the acid.' This is highly dangerous,and a serious explosion may result.

This mixing generates heat, and it is important that the electrolyte(as the mixture is called) should not be used in the battery beforeit has been allowed to cool. Pour the electrolyte into the cells of the

34 35

,battery by means of a lead, glass or celluloid funnel, until it com-

pletely fills the cells to the top of the vent hole. Allow the batteryto remain in this condition for 10 minutes or so, then put in more

acid so that eac.},cell is again filled to the same point with electrolyte.

The electrolyte will have a specific gravity of 1.285 when fullycharged. Batteries may be charged at almost any service station.

HEADLAM'

CARE OF

LAMPSTHE-------

FRONTVIEWOFSWITCHBOARD'WITHCOVERREMOVEDSHOWINGSWITCHPOSIT"OS)

HEADLAM'

Bulb Replacement""""""""'"'

Bulb Sizes

""""""'"' "'M""""SI""""""'."",,

~""CUTDUT To remove the front of the head lamps for a bulb replacement,

press the front rim evenly, and then rotate to the left (lookingat the front of the lamp) as far as possible, when the front

may easily be withdrawn. In the case of a tail lamp bulb replace-ment the front is removed by unscrewing it to the left.

'OO",D", TOT"CLAM'

""""HT)CD'UG"T HEAOLA"'

,""'".':':'ii""""

I

':",iiil",""""""I", BACKVIEWI,OF SWITCHBOARD

(,""rn'TE'M"AC)CD"""",

W/OI'- CUT-OUTFUSE

THISBOXMUSTBEmECTUALLV.:oOOECTEOTOEARTH.

JOINEDTOBASEOFBOX

"":,""i,"""'"','

'WONCABLE --- JIV' -- --'.'nO. '--'~.. -""""""""

,"

,'i,,"

The reflectors of the lamps are covered with a protective coating,and any marks can be easily removed by means of a soft cloth.

""" .""rn,"M'

DIAGRAMOFWIRINGThe sizes of the bulbs are ;-Head, BAS No. I (S.P.); Dim,

BAS No. 8 (S.P.); Tail, BAS No. 8 (S.P.)

The Reflectors

,..

Care of the Outer Body

."" If the ebony black becomes dull in service, the original finishcan be restored, no matter how neglected it may be, by a goodfurniture or car' polish.',..

~"-'=-='--"~-.:_---DY"MD

FocussingREARLAMP

Unless the focus of the bulb in the reflector is correct, quitehalf the possible light may be lost. A correct focus is securedby means of the choice of several positions in which the bulb maybe fixed. Set the lamps correctly level, pointing neither up nordown. They can be adjusted, 'either horizontally or vertically,by slackening the nut holding the lamp to the bracket.

STARTER

3637

1

RUNNINGADJUSTMENTS

THE adjustments set out below are all that the owner willfind it necessary to make to keep the car in good runningorder.

Valve Tappet AdjustmentTo ensure obtaining the full power of the engine, and to maintain

silence in the valve operation, it is essential to keep the tappetscorrectly adjusted, To make this adjustment, first remove the valvecover, turn the engine slowly round with the hand starting crank.Watch each valve open in turn and note the point at which it stopsdescending. Now turn the engine half a revolution further to makesure that the cam is well away from the tappet. There should now

be between thevalve stem A andtappet screw B aclearance equal tothe thickness ofthe thin blade ofthe "tappet clear-ance gauge." Ifthe clearance isother than this, itcan be adjusted byloosening the IQck-nut C and r.usingor lowering screw

B. being careful to tighten up the lock-nut when the adjustment iscompleted. A special spanner is provided in the tool kit for thisoperation. Check this adjustment when the engine is warm.

38

This should be fairly easy to do. without damaging the joint washer.which should. in the ordinary course. be in a condition to be replaced.

Removing the CarbonWhen the head has been removed the valves and tops of pistons

will be exposed to view. All dirt or deposit should be removed bycarefully scraping with a sharp tool. Before grinding-in the valvesit will be necessary to remove the inlet pipe. and exhaust manifold.and carburetter. first turning off the peirol and uncoupling the pipeunder the float chamber. then disconnecting the carburetter control.the air strangler wire. and the windscreen wiper tubing. The valvecover. with its cork washer. can be removed on undoing the twomilled nuts. Each valve spring must be lifted by means of the specialtool provided to allow the split cotter A to come out (see illustration) ;then remove the spring. The valve is now free to be rotated on itsseat when the tappet screw has been lowered clear of the stem. Afterit is cleaned a little grinding compound should be smeared evenlyon its face and the valve rotated backwards and forwards by means ofa screwdriver. advancing it a step at short intervals until the pittingis removed. Lift each valve a little from its seating at the end ofeach step-this allows some of the grinding compound to enterbetween the two faces and facilitates the cutting action. Careshould be taken that none of the compound enters the cylindersand the valve and seating should be wiped clean after the operation.Note that it is essential for each valve to be ground-in and refitted onits own sealing. as indicated by the number on the valve head. Thevalves are numbered from I to 8. starting from the front. It is alsodesirable to clean the valve guides. This can be done by dipping thevalve stem in petrol or paraffin and moving it up and down. andround. in the guide until the dirt is removed. Then the valve shouldbe cleaned. and the stem smeared with graphite grease and re-insertedin the guide; the valve spring and cup being fitted up round it. Thevalve lifter is then used as before to compress the spring. so that the

Cleaning Combustion ChamberTo secure the maximum efficiency from the engine it is necessary

to remove the carbon deposit that will have formed on the surfacesof the combustion chamber. This should be done after about2.000 miles running. When the cylinder head is off it may beadvisable to take this oportunity of grinding-in the valves. althoughthis will need a longer time for the work to be carried out. In anycase, it is recommended that after about 4.000 miles the work ofgrinding.in the valves should be undertaken.

First drain off the water through cock under the radiator. Detachthe top water tube from the head. Disconnect the high tensionwires from the sparking plugs. Remove the nuts holding downthe head. Then take hold of the head at each end and lift it off.

39

when in this condition, but should be attended to at once.Access to the handbrake mechan.

ism is through the small cover inthe centre of the car, just behind thegearbox.

To adjust the hand brake pullthe lever on about one.third of thetotal travel provided by the rack.Now unlock the nut (B) and screwup the brake adjusting screw (A)until the shoes are hard on thedrum. If the brake shoes do notthen rub on the drum, when thelever is right forward, the adjust.ment is correct. See that the screwis locked again by nut (B).

To adjust the foot brake: Underthe car and approximately underthe foot controls is a wing nut (C).

This must bescrewed towardsthe front of theengine until thebrakes go full onwhen the pedal isdepressed a b 0 u t2in. When thepedal is up, thebrake shoes shouldnot rub the rearwheel drums inwhich they oper.ate.

Rear Brake CompensationFor compensating the rear brakes, which may be necessary after

re.lining the shoes, an individual adjustment for each of the rearbrake cables is provided. A screwed end, to which the cable isattached, screws into the front fork.end, which secures the cable tothe compensating tube lever. By removing the fork.end from thelever (a pin, secured by a split'pin, holds it) the fork can be screwedfurther on or oH the screwed cable end to effect the compensation.The cable must not be twisted while this is being done. To testwhether both brakes engage equally at the same time, jack.up theback axle, and with the brake pedal pressed down, turn eacb wheel byhand to judge the braking effect.

Tracking AdjustmentOne of the causes of premature tyre wear is the front wheels

being out of track. The wheels, if they are correctly trackingshould not be parallel, but should be tin. doser between the rims

41

7

split cotter can be refitted. The smaller diameter of the completecotter should be uppermost, and the cotter should be fitted down onto the collar at the bottom of the stem. The grease on the stemwill help to hold it in position while the lifter screw is slackened, toallow the valve cup to come down over the cotter. It is easiest if theend valves are fitted first, working towards the centre ones. Whenrefitting the manifolds ensure that the joints are good. The cylinderhead joint washer should be replaced, copper side downward, witha little graphite grease smeared over each side, to make a good jointand to prevent it sticking when the head has next to be lifted. Whenreplacing the head take care to tighten the nuts evenly. Don'tforget, after replacing the head, to refill the radiator.

Lifting the Cylinder Block

For access to the pistons (except the piston crowns), and theconnecting rods, or for fitting a new.tappet plunger or guide, orvalve guide, it is necessary to lift the cylinder block. The threenuts on the distributor side are easily removed, also the three barrelnuts on the valve side can be removed without difficulty whenthe valve cover has been taken off. For access to the nut at thefront of the cylinder block the dynamo and casing with the fanbracket and fan, must be lifted dear. First pull the ignition leadsand the lead froIp the coil, from their sockets in the distributor cover.Disconnect the dynamo and the ignition control, and remove thefan belt. The casing is secured by three set screws and a nut. Withthe casing removed, the front cylinder block nut is accessible. Foraccess to the rear nut of the block, it is advisable to lift the starter.motor and casing, from its mounting over the flywheel. This isdone by removing the two set screws, and lifting the casing .clearvertically off its positioning dowel. The cylinder block can belifted when the lower hose connection has been removed. Whenrefitting the starter.motor casing, the larger set screw is required atthe nearside of the casing. There is no joint washer between thiscasing and the crankcase, but paper joint washers are used betweenthe cylinder block and the crankcase, also under the dynamo casing.These joints must be oil.tight. When refitting the cylinder block itis necessary to use sleeves on the pistons to compress the rings.These piston ring sleeves are among the extra tools obtainable fromthe Service Department of the Austin Motor Co., Ltd. It will benecessary to retime the ignition (page 22) after re.assembling.

Adjusting the Brakes

The hand brake operates on the front wheels and the foot brakeon the rear wheels. They require adjusting when the hand levercan be pulled right back to the full travel on the rack, and whenthe pedal can be pushed nearly to the floor.board without eitherbrake holding the wheels. The car should never be taken out

40

,

j

7 .,

in front of the axle than they are behind. This difference, or"toe-in" as it is called, allows for working clearances of the steeringconnections, and any slight spring of the parts, so that when thecar is running the wheels are as near parallel as possible. If onchecking this difference, it is greater or smaller than! in. the trackingshould be adjusted. This is not difficult to effect. It is necessaryto remove the cross tube lever, on the near side, from the swivelaxle. It is secured by a nut on the front of the swivel axle, underwhich there is a spring washer. With this done, the steering crosstube is freed at the near side for the adjustment. On the clampingbolt of the steering arm jaw being slackened, the jaw can be screwedfurther on, or off, the cross tube, for so many complete turns asmay be necessary. This movement will enable the correct adjust-ment to be attained; then the clamping bolt is re-tightened. Onrefitting the cross tube lever to the axle, tighten the nut securely,with the spring washer under it. This, as well as the steeringadjustment described below, is one of the adjustments which it isadvisable to leave to the Austin agent to effect, who is properlyequipped for the work.

stiff. Having adjusted the sleeve correctly, screw in the lockingpeg so that it enters one of the slots of the sleeve, tighten up theclamping bolt, and the supporting bracket to the instrument board.

Adjustment of SteeringIf after continual use slackness should be felt in the steering,

two adjustments are available :- To take up the play in the column,loosen the nut which tightens the bracket supporting the steeringouter column to the instrument board, unscrew locking peg (A) andclamping bolt (B) then turn the sleeve (C) with the special spannerprovided for the purpose, until the play has been removed. Donot screw the sleeve in too tight or the steering will then become

To take up the clearance between the worm and worm wheel.due to wear, remove the locking plates and slacken the three nuts(D) holding the cover (E) to the worm casing, then turn adjustingnut (F) so as to slightly draw the cover in the direction of the worm.Care must be taken that the worm wheel is not brought too tightlyinto mesh with the worm or it will make the steering exceedinglyhard and stiff. Having made the adjustment be sure and tightenup the three nuts (D) and lock them with the locking plates.

Should it be desirable to remove the steering worm wheel fromthe casing, it is only necessary to slacken the adjusting nut (F) andremove the three nuts (D) when the cover (E) can be withdrawntogether with the worm wheel and steering arm. The steeringcolumn (H) with control rods can be withdrawn by first removingcontrol levers (K). and nut (L), then slackening locking peg (A),and clamping bolt (B), and unscrewing the sleeve (C). Theseadjustments, again, should be left to an Austin agent to effect.

Re-lining the Brakes

To re-line the brakes it is necessary first to remove the wheel,and then the brake drum, by unscrewing the three screwdriver

screws which secure it to the hub; and, before the shoes can beremoved for re-lining, the hub and wheel bearing must be extracted.For this a special hub extractor is supplied in the tool kit.

4243

J

7 ,Rear Brakes the outer portion of the hub and pull it up to its original position

by the wheel nuts, as in the case of the rear wheel. By means ofthe extractor draw off the hub with its bearing and packing. Thebrake shoes are left clear for removal. On reassembling rememberto fit a new split pin through the axle and nut; there is a hole inthe end of the hub through which the pin can be inserted.

It is always necessary to re-line all four brake shoes on the oneaxle at the same time, and after the re-lining it may be necessaryto slack off the brake adjustment before the brake drum can bereplaced.

After re-lining the brakes make sure that the hubs contain sufficientlubricant, re-adjust the brakes and compensate them, if necessary(see pages 40 and 41).

For the rear wheel brakes (see illustration on page 31) removethe axle shaft nut, having first taken out the split pin, and extractthe outer portion of the hub by screwing the extractor on thescrewed end, and turning the extractor bolt which bears on theend of the axle shaft. Remove the key from its keyway in theaxle shaft. Next remove the bearing nut, having knocked backthe tang of the washer locking it, and prise the inner portion of thehub or felt housing together with felt packing and bearing, offthe end of the axle casing. Do not damage the paper washerbetween the hub and the felt housing faces, as it is important tomake a good joint on reassembling, to prevent the hub lubricantpenetrating to the brake. If this inner portion of the hub does noteasily come off the axle casing, the outer half should be refittedas closely as possible, using the wheel nuts to draw the two halvestogether. Then use the hub extractor a second time, and so removethe hub together with bearing and packing. The brake shoes cannow be pulled off the cam and pivot pin and the springs unhooked.The old linings can then be detached by punching or drilling outthe rivets.

The brake linings should be clamped to the shoes while theriveting is in progress, as it is essential that they should bed downon the shoes over their whole area.

Adjusting Austin Front Shock AbsorbersThe shock absorber is set to a certain iniiial tension before it

leaves the factory, and no change in this adjustment should benecessary for a very considerable time.

Re-adjustment may only become necessary after several thousandmiles of car travel, and should be made only when the spring move-ment seems too free. It should be noted that, normally, the fullbenefit of the shock absorbers will not be felt when the car istravelling at low speeds, as under these conditions the spring move-ment is very linited, but, as the speed increases their effect becomesmore pronounced, especially over bad roads when the spring actionis most severe. Testing should, therefore, be carried out at com-parativelyhigh average touring speeds and adjustment made tosuit these conditions.

The frictional resistance required to effectively control the actionoLlhe springs is comparatively small, and care should be taken notto alter the pressure, when adjusting, more than is absolutelynecessary in order to obtain the desired results.

For fast sporting cars and for road and track racing, a considerableincrease in pressure may, of course, be required.

When adjustment does become necessary, carefully note theriding qualities of the car, and if the spring action seems too retardedor stiff, reduce the frictional resistance of the shock absorbers byturning the centre adjusting nut to the left, or counter-clockwise,after slackening the lock nut. If the spring action seems too free,increase the frictional resistance by turning the adjusting nut to theright, or clockwise. After adjusting, tighten the lock-nut.

Careful adjustment in this manner will produce an ideal condition.The spring will still have the required amount of flexibility foreasy riding, but spring vibration will be reduced to a minimumand violent rebound effectively eliminated. .

The rear Austin shock absorbers do not require adjustment.

Reassembling

To reassemble, replace the shoes with their springs on the camand pivot pin. Replace the inner portion of the hub or felt housingwith the bearing and packing on the axle casing end, and push uphome by tightening the bearing nut, which must be locked by thelocking washer in the same way as before dismantling. Replace thepaper joint washer on the felt housing face, insert the key in theshaft, push the hub over the axle shaft, on the key, and draw it upto the felt housing by the wheel nuts on their studs. When thejoint faces of the hub and the felt housing are together replacethe axle nut and tighten securely up to the hub boss. Remember,to insert the split pin through the nut. Then remove the wheel nutsfrom the hub, fit the brake drum, and insert and tighten the threescrewdriver screws.

Front Brakes

For the front brakes (see illustration on page 31) the operationis somewhat similar. Having removed the wheel, and the brakedrum, secured by the three screws, remove the hub cap, and screwon the extractor in its place. Before proceeding further, removethe plug (A) from the hub, or unscrew it for about three turns;otherwise it will foul the outer hub bearing when the hub is beingextracted. Draw off the outer portion of the hub. The axlenut and split pin will now be accessible for removal. Now replace

44 45

J

~

CARECleaning the Shock Absorbers HOODOF THEPeriodically-especially in wet weather when much mud is

thrown on to them-the large end of the shock absorbers should'be taken apart, by withdrawing the centre bolt, and thoroughlycleansed. The centre pin and washers should then be welllubricated,

If this precaution is not adopted, the shock absorbers are liableto become tight-when an excessive load is thrown on the pins andbushes at the end of the arms, which will cause rapid wear. Inaddition, great strain is imposed on the bracket holding the shockabsorber to the frame.

Lowering the Hood.To lower the hood, first release it from the pillars of the wind.

screen, push the side screens inwards so that the rubber buffersfixed near the top of the division on the side screens clear the ironframework of the hood.

Now push thehood straight upand back from thefront and breakthe joint of thei ran framework,see illustration.

The pictureshows very clearlythe commence.ment of the" con.certina" move.ment which beginsthe actual lower.ing of the hood.

The hood willthen collapsetowards the backof the car. Pullthe folds out untilthey lie in one bigfold over the back of the car, see below; secure the two rear windowfasteners, on to the studs on the back of the body, and secure thehood frame with the clip on either side. Ensure that the folded

frame rests in thesupport near the for.ward end of thelowered upright thatpivots on the body.

Now fold thematerial back care.fully, seeing that theedges are evenlyplaced, tUrn them in,either side-see illus.tration below-or un.der and put the coverin position over all.

Secure the coverby the straps, oneeach side, and thetwo fasteners on theback of the body.

Clutch Slip

Some drivers are inclined to use the clutch instead of changingdown to a lower gear, particularly when they are almost at the topof a hill and it is only necessary to change down for a few yards,Foot pressure is applied to the clutch to create a certain amountof slip (see page 10). This highly polishes the frictional surfacesand will eventually be the cause of persistent slip; finally in additionto burning out the fabric rings, probably also distorting the centreplate and making renewal of this essential.

Sometimes clutch slip is due to oil penetrating to the clutch fromthe engine or gearbox. This results from over.oiling of eitheror both of these units (pages 27 and 28). If the inspection plateover the clutch casing is removed, petrol can be syringed on theclutch plate to wash off the oil, so that the clutch regains its frictionalcharacteristics. The petrol and oil will drain away through a holein the casing under the flywheel.

When injecting the petrol have the engine turned so that theplate is properly washed and the petrol and oil are given an oppor.tunity to drain away, also push the clutch out and let it in by thepedal so that the petrol is given a washing action. Do not replacethe inspection plate, until the oil and petrol have had sufficienttime to evaporate.

After this operation it is advisable to lubricate the declutchinglevers at their pivotting points and the clutch withdrawal collar(page 28) as the lubricant in these members may have been removedby the petrol.

There is no adjustment necessary for the clutch.

Fan AdjustmentRelease the clamping pin nut on the fan bracket and then turn

the spindle, which is in the form of a crank, until the necessarytension is obtained in the fan belt.

46

~

"

Raising the HoodTo raise the hood, remove the cover, release the clip, and unfold

the hood materiaL Lift the top hood stick vertically, holding themetal side-strip of the

J" "

hood frame near the

Jhinge. If the fronthood stick is thenpushed forward andthe metal strips are ~

pulled back tostraighten the hinge,the whole hood can bedropped forward and secured in position to the windscreen.

metal polishes be used, as are sometimes advertised for cellulose.It has been found that the more the surface of the cellulose finish isrubbed by the polishing cloth, the smoother and more lasting is thelustre imparted,

STORING THE CARShould the car be laid up in the garage for long periods, the fuel

and water should. be drained off and the batteries removed, andweight taken off the tyres.

Care of the HoodCare should be taken in folding down the hood to see that the

original folds are used. Should the ear have been used in wetweather leave the hood up to dry. Never fold it when wet.

The joints will be stiff when new; they are intentionally madeso, in order that they will not rattle when they have worked in.Each joint and hinge should have a drop of oil occasionally; thiswill ease the movement, The best dressing for the Austin Sevenhood is good quality black boot polish. Brush it in, particularlyround the seams, and rub it well so that the polish is forced into thegrain of the material to keep it waterproof.

THE TYRESTyre Pressure

The minimum pressure at which both front and back tyresshould be inflated is 20 lbs,

Should, due to wear or other causes, the steering at any timedevelop a tendency to wander or show signs of wobble, this pressureshould be increased, It is important that both front tyres should bekept at the same pressure, In any event there is no reason why thepressure should not be more than the minimum figure given, assome drivers prefer their tyres harder than do others,

As tyres form such a large item in the running costs of a car it isadvisable to give them periodical examination and attention,

A cursory glance should be given daily to see that none of thetyres is unduly slack, and a weekly test with a suitable gauge shouldbe made to verify the pressures. Occasionally examine the tyretreads for cuts; bad cuts should be vulcanized,

CARE of the BODYWORK

FOR the car to look well and keep its beauty and smart appear-ance, the body must be given its share of attention; it mustnot be neglected.

PolishingDry off and then polish with one of the special polishes now

marketed, (Polish is not necessary for the fabric bodies except atinfrequent intervals. Then an ordinary wax polish can be used,only sparingly applied). Such preparations impart a brilliantsurface and preserve and beautify the body. On no account should

Tyre WearBecause of the turning-in of the wheels towards each other at their

lowest point, it has been found that the front side tyre wears at itsouter edge, The camber of the road tilts the car towards the left,and the tyres are distorted. It is in the action of recovering theircorrect shape, immediately after contact with the road, that theysuffer abrasion, made more damaging because the gritty substancesnow used on tarmac roads accumulate on the near side and the wheelis running in this grit for most of the time it is on the road. Sochange your front wheels over and thus equalize the wear betweenthe tyres. When both tyres have become worn on the outside edge,change the back wheels with the front wheels. Subsequently thetyres can be turned round, bringing the least worn edge to the out-side. If the front tyres should show premature wear at any timesuspect the tracking of the front wheels. Have it checked, to see ifit is correct, and, if necessary, adjusted (see page 41).

WashingThe cellulose (or fabric) finish of the car is easily cleaned and

polished. In summer weather when the car is only dusty the dustcan be lightly flicked off without water and there is no risk ofdamaging the finish. When the car is muddy, wash off well withclean running water. Remove any grease or tar splashes withpetroL Don't use the same sponge and cleaning cloths for thechassisand springs and other greasy parts as are used for the coach-work,

48 49

..

TOOLS

WITH

t in. and h in. box spanner.i in. and I in. box spanner.h in. and t in. double open-

end spanner.h in. and! in. double open-

end spanner.-&in. and t in. double open-

end spanner.Adjustable spanner, 4 in.Carburetter jet key.Hub-cap and steering column

sleeve spanner.Ignition spanner.Tappet adjusting spanner.Spanner for monoblocnuts.

A spare cylinder-head joint

SUPPLIEDTHE CAR

AUSTIN EQUIPMENTSEVEN

THE Austin Motor Co., Ltd., accept no liability undertbe terms of tbeir Warranty for Tyres, Speed.ometers, or tbe Electrical Equipment, or other

goods, including Coachwork, not of tbeir own Manufacture.I

Tool wrap.Sparking-plugbox spannerand

tommy bar.Brace for detachable wheels.Tyre lever.

,

Tyre pump.

Lifting jack, with handle.Screwdriver.

Sparking plug and tappetclearance gauge.

Grease gun with adaptor.Valve-spring lifter.Combination pliers.Hub extractor.

washer is also supplied.

AIl claims relating to any of these parts or fittingsor orders for repairs to them, sbould be addressed totbeir manufacturers.

For owners' information we give below the namesand addresses of the manufacturers, or suppliers of theequipment fitted on the Austin Seven.

IMPORTANTWhen claims under guarantee are being made, it is

absolutely necessary to quote the type and number ofthe ear, and tbe commissioning date. I

.Electrical and Ignition Equipment, Lampsand Batteries

" Lucas " Joseph Lucas, Ltd., Great Hampton Street,and Birmingham and Dordrecht Road, Acton

"C.A.V:' Vale, London, WJ.

Windscreen Wiper"Trico" A. Rist, Ltd., WaveneyWorks, Lowestoft."Folberth" C. G. Vokes & Co., Ltd., 95-97, Lower

RichmondRoad,Putney, London,S.W.15

THE AUSTIN MAGAZINE

A high-class monthly motor journal of wideappeal and special interest to the Austin owner

SUBSCRIPTION .4d. MONTHLY

Grease Gun"Enots" Benton and Stone, Ltd., Bracebridge Street,

Birmingham.

7/6 per annum (post free), Speedometer"Smith"

Bodies and" Gordon .

England"" Mulliner "

S. Smith and Sons (MA.), Ltd.. CricklewoodWorks, London. N,W.2.

FittingsGordon England, Ltd., Palace of Industry,

Wembley.Mulliners, Ltd., Bordesley Green Road,

Birmingham.Thomas Startin, Junr., 71, Aston North

Road, Birmingham.

From any Bookstall or Newsagent.

Send YOHr SubscriptionNO W-

"THE AUSTIN MAGAZINE,"SUBSCRIPTION DEPARTMENT,

LONGBRIDGE, Birmingham.

50

" Startin "

51

"

Tyres and Tubes.. Dunlop " Dunlop Rubber Co., Ltd., Fort Dunlop,

Erdington, Birmingham.

Carburetter"Zenith"

Horns.. A.R.".. Benjamin"

MEMORANDA

Zenith Carburetter Co., Ltd., 40.42, NewmanStreet, London, W.1.

A. Rist, Ltd., Waveney Works, Lowestoft.Benjamin Electric, Ltd.. Brantwood Works,

Tariff Road, T ottenham, London, N .17.

Lifting Jacks.. Midas " Lake and Elliott, Ltd., Albion Works,

Braintree, Essex.R. T. Shelley, Ltd., Aston Brook Street,

Birmingham,.. Shelley "

Owner's NaTfIR.

Address

Car No.

Registralion No.

Driving Licence No.

Imurance Policy No.

52