feral magazine

8/2/2019 Feral Magazine

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Features

The Insiders GuideTo The Great ParksTwo countries. Thirty national parks. Fity adventures

o a lietime. Between the United States and Canada,

its time to gear up or a summer like no other.

Heres how to ind real adventure in the great parks.

Portolio: Jim RichardsonPhotographer Jim Richardson has worked or

National Geographic or many years. Take a look at

his accomplishments and his stunning photography.

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Departments

AdrenalinA basic rundown o what you need to know about the

increasingly popular sport o longboarding.

Road TripEnter Americas o-road playground and experiencethe greatest stops.

SurvivalKnowing how to make a ire is essential or wilderness

survival. Learn how.

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What is a Longboard?A longboard is a longer version of

a skateboard. Longboards are most

commonly used for either downhill

racing, slalom, or transportation.

Due to its longer and wider

base, a longboard is more stable,

making the ride generally safer

and more comfortable than on

a shortboard, although it may be

hard for beginners to ride down

hills at high speeds. Their greater

weight makes them less suitable

for many tricks, but contributes

to a uid motion by giving more

momentum. Thus, a longboard will

roll farther with a single push of the

foot. Many people therefore prefer

longboards to normal skateboards

for cruising on streets andsidewalks. Longboarding is often

compared to surng on concrete,

and the size gives riders the option

of performing big turns and quick

short carves just like on a surfboard.

Carving is way of turning that is

mostly used when one is going

12 mph or more.

Deck TypesDepending on their purpose,

longboards exist in a wide variety of

shapes and sizes. The differentiation

between a short skateboard and a

longboard usually depends on their

application and conguration.

Most longboards measure between

90 and 150 cm (35.459 inches).

TransportationBoards used for transportation

or commuting are the most common

types of longboards. The boards are

usually 100130 cm long and do not

have a shorter nose.

SlalomSlalom skateboards are

sometimes used for racing through

courses set up with small cones asquickly as possible. The boards are

usually 6389 cm long.

DownhillDownhill longboards are used

for riding down mountain roads

as fast as possible. The boards are

usually 95110 cm long with a very

stiff dropped deck.

Trick boardsTrick boards are similar to

the short skateboards in shape and

construction but are longer and

usually wider. The trick boards are

seldom longer than 110 cm.

CruisersCruising is often used to

show off skill and control over the

longboard. Cruising longboards

are typically much longer then the

usual longboard, 150200 cm or

more, and often closely resemble

the shape of surfboards.

HybridsA relatively recent development.

Companies have been experimenting

with unconventional wheeled-board

designs, modifying decks, trucks,and even the number of wheels

on the board.

Adrenaline / Longboarding

ConcreteSuringHere is a basic rundown o what you

need to know about the increasingly

popular sport o longboarding.

SOULBOARDS

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4/22

Road Trip /Southern Utah

NATIONALGEOGRAPHICADVENTURE

Southern Utah is a veritable snake

pit of dusty, lonesome jeep roads

wrapping around sandstone

pinnacles and steep, red-orange

canyons. Go ahead, cruise a few.

But to best explore the Canyonlands

(and conserve fuel), youve got

to re up your own God-given

engine. Transform a battle-tested

four-by-four into your roving, all-

terrain base camp as you hike, bike,

and paddle through this string of

stashes that locals know best and

guides are less likely to mention.

Elephant HillElephant Hill is a legendary

four-wheeling destination that

doubles as a lesser known mountain

biking spot. At the base of the

hill, park the car at Squaw Flat

Campground and crank up the5,300-foot (1,615-meter) hunk of

slickrock. Once past the Elephants

hump, push on for another four

miles (6 kilometers) to Conuence

Overlook, where the Green River

merges with the cappuccino-colored

Colorado. Back at your car, pick a

spot and crash at the campground.

Glen CanyonLake Powell is a hydro-

Houdini. Each year its water levels

rise and fall to reveal more or less

of long-lost Glen Canyon. Natural

arches come in and out of view.

Waterfalls are born, then cease t o

exist. See the magic act by taking

a car ferry from Halls Crossing,

160 miles (257.5 kilometers) west of

Elephant Hill, to Bullfrog Marina,

where you can rent a kayak and

arrange for a shuttle to one of the

96 side canyons. Primitive camping,

away from the RV hubbub, can be

found two miles (3 kilometers) from

the marina, at the Stanton Creek

Campground.

Cottonwood WashWading through waist-deep

water is a rite of passage on Capitol

Reef National Parks three-mile-

long (5-kilometer-long) Cottonwood

Wash, a slot-canyon trail accessed

along Notom Road before Highway24. Out here, scrambling over large

boulders, slogging through deep

pools, and squeezing through high-

walled passageways become second

natureas does checking the

weather (ash oods are frequent).

At the end of the day, pitch your

tent back on BLM property.

The ColoradoForget the crowded rafting

trip; youve got a big-wheeled

vehicle built for hauling a couple of

duckies (single-person rafts).

Rent boats from Moabs

Tag-A-Long Expeditions and

run 12 miles (19 kilometers) of

Class II rapids starting at Hittle

Bottom Campground, 24 miles(39 kilometers) northeast of Moab

on Route 128. On these slow-going

wave trains, minimal paddling

prowess will suffice. Or, for a

bigger, longer, and more pampered

day trip, stick with the guides from

Tag-A-Long and put in at Westwater

for 17 miles (27 kilometers) of

Class III and IV rapids.

La Sal MountainFinish on solid ground with a

63-mile (101-kilometer) ride on La

Sal Mountain Loop Road, a pock-

marked route that runs from Moab,

through national forest land, and

ascends into the La Sal Mountains,

the second highest range in Utah.

Shoot past red rock canyons, climb

hills lined with aspen and scrub

oak, and make the technical descent

into Castle Valley, where pinnacle

rocks reign supreme. At rides end,

kick back on the deck of Red Cliffs

Lodge, 14 miles (22.5 kilometers)

northeast of Moab on State Route

18, overlooking the Colorado River

and hulking Fisher Towers.

4x4 RequiredEnter Americas o-road playground

and experience the greatest stops.

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Cross-DitchTo use this method,

scratch a cross about 30

centimeters in size in the

ground. Dig the cross 7.5

centimeters deep. Put a

large wad of tinder in

the middle of the cross.

Build a kindling pyramid

above the tinder. The

shallow ditch allows air tosweep under the tinder to

provide a draft.

In many survival situations, the ability to start a re can make the difference

between living and dying. Fire can fulll many needs. It can provide

warmth and comfort. It not only cooks and preserves food, it also provides

warmth in the form of heated food that saves calories our body normally

uses to produce body heat. You can use re to purify water, sterilize

bandages, signal for rescue, and provide protection from animals. It can be

a psychological boost by providing peace of mind and companionship. You

can also use re to produce tools and weapons. Fire can cause problems,

as well. The enemy can detect the smoke and light it produces. It can cause

forest res or destroy essential equipment. Fire can also cause burns carbon

monoxide poisoning when used in shelters.

Basic Fire PrinciplesTo build a fire, it helps to

understand the basic principles of

a re. Fuel (in a nongaseous state)

does not burn directly. When you

apply heat to a fuel, it produces a

gas. This gas, combined with oxygen

in the air, burns. Understanding the

concept of the re triangle is very

important in correctly constructingand maintaining a re. The three

sides of the triangle represent air,

heat, and fuel. If you remove any

of these, the re will go out. The

correct ratio of these components is

very important for a re to burn at

its greatest capability. The only way

to learn this ratio is to practice.

Building The FireThere are several methods for

laying a re, each of which has

advantages. The situation you nd

yourself in will determine which

re to use. Here is a list of four

common types of res.

WILDERNESS-SURVIVAL.NET

Survival/ Firecraft

Keep Warm!Knowing how to make a ire is essential or wilderness survival. Learn how.

TepeeTo make this re,

arrange the tinder and

a few sticks of kindling

in the shape of a tepee

or cone. Light the center.

As the tepee burns, the

outside logs will fall

inward, feeding the re.

This type of re burns

well even with wet wood.

Lean-ToTo lay this re, push

a stick into the ground at

a 30-degree angle. Point

the end of the stick in the

direction of the wind.

Place some tinder deep

under this lean-to stick.

Lean pieces of kindling

against the lean-to stick.

Light the tinder. As thekindling catches re from

the tinder, add more

kindling.

PyramidTo lay this re,

place two small logs or

branches parallel on the

ground. Place a solid

layer of small logs across

the parallel logs. Add

three or four more layers

of logs or branches, each

layer smaller than and at

a right angle to the layerbelow it. Make a starter

re on top of the pyramid.

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6/22FERAL MAGAZIN

great parksTwo countries. Thirty national parks. Fity adventureso a lietime. Between the United States and Canada,its time to gear up or a summer like no other. Hereshow to nd real adventure in the great parks.By Robert Earle Howells

The Insiders Guide To The

FERAL MAGAZINE10


7/22

Hunker Down in a HollowA third o the country can reach it in a day, yet the undulating ridges,

orested valleys, and rollicking streams o Great Smoky Mountains

National Park are as wild as Appalachia ever was. The vistas are

sweeping. The hollows are deep. And the potential or soul-searching

isolation is very, very real. Still, the true beauty o the park lies in one

key detail: 80 inches (203 centimeters) o rain a year. The fow eedsprimeval hardwood orests and innumerable creeks that tumble down

hazy mountainsides.

Great Parks / Great Smoky Mountains Overall RatingScenery

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One-Night StandForgo the melee of larger campgrounds and base yourself atAbrams Creek, in the low, western portion of the park. Fromthere, a 2.6-mile (4-kilometer) hike up a wooded river valley leadsto a ravine shrouded in white pine and hemlock. With each step,the curtain of mountain and forest draws tighter, sealing youoff from the modern world. Toss a line for brown trout, swim ina pool, or just savor the trademark sound of the Smokies:owing water.

Three Days or MoreNot too many folks consider Great Smoky a paddlingdestination and thats precisely the point: Fontana Lake,at the parks southwestern edge, is prime territory for a paddlingand hiking foray. Put in your canoe at Fontana Marina and headto campsite 87, aka Jerry Hollow, on your own private peninsula.The next day, paddle east, then north, into Hazel Creek to ariverbank beside the Hazel Creek Trail. A hundred yards or sointo the woods is campsite 86, from which you can poke aroundthe 1928 Calhoun House, a sagging Appalachia-style cabin. Onthe third day, hike up Hazel Creek (bring a rod to test the best

rainbow fishing in the park) to campsite 84. From there ahalf-mile trail leads to a suitably creepy, old cemetery, the restingplace of some of the last true mountain people of the Smokies.

Must-Do SecretIf youve got only one hike in you, choose the 17-mile (almostone kilometer) loop from Big Creek Ranger Station that startsout along the Chestnut Branch and Appalachian Trails. The routetakes in a remote section of the AT and one of the parks bestviews. At Mount Cammerer a 0.6-mile (about one kilometer) spurtrail leads to a 1930s-era re tower that yields a 360-degree viewover forest-cloaked hills. Return by way of the Big Creek andLower Gap Trails, pausing to douse yourself in any of the deeppools or tumbling cascades you nd along the way.

VitalsThe hike-in LeConte Lodge ($89; www.leconte-lodge.com) hasseven cabins atop 6,593-foot (2,010-kilometer) Mount LeConte.Fontana Marina rents canoes ($50 a day; 800 849 2258). For parkinfo and permits, visit www.nps.gov/grsm.

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Great Parks / Great Smoky Mountains

Great Smoky Mountains National Park offers a widerange of activities for visitors twelve months of the year.The parks moderate climate makes it a favorite get-away for millions of people each year. Many visitors arenow taking advantage of the reduced crowds and subtlebeauty of late fall, winter, and early spring months. Someprior planning and weather-wise clothing will helpensure an enjoyable visit during any time of the year.

When planning a trip in the park, it is helpful to keepin mind that elevations in the park range from approxi-mately 875 feet to 6,643 feet and that the topography candrastically affect local weather. Temperatures can easilyvary 10-20 degrees Fahrenheit from mountain baseto top, and clear skies lower down do not guaranteeequally pleasant weather at higher elevations. Rainfallaverages 55 inches per year in the lowlands to 85 inchesper year at Clingmans Dome.

Viewing wildlife in the Smokies can be challengingbecause most of the park is covered by dense forest.Open areas like Cataloochee and Cades Cove offer someof the best opportunities to see white-tailed deer, blackbear, raccoon, turkeys, woodchucks, and other animals.The narrow, winding road of Roaring Fork MotorNature Trail encourages motorists to travel at a leisurelypace and sometimes yields sightings of bear and otherwildlife. During winter wildlife is more visible becausedeciduous trees have lost their leaves.

Because many animals are most active at night, it canbe advantageous to look for wildlife during morningand evening. Its also a good idea to carry binoculars.Some people like to sit quietly beside a trail to see whatwildlife will come out of hiding. And dont forget toscan the treesmany animals spend their days amongthe branches.

Wildlie ViewingClimate


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Splash in a SwampI there is one certainty in the Everglades, its that youre bound to

be surprised. Far rom the monolithic swamp that is oten portrayed,

Everglades National Park is a complex mosaic o expansive saw-grass

prairies, moss-draped cypress orests, mangrove islands, and placid

waterways. The pervasive silence is broken only by the occasional canoe

paddle or the rife o an angry bonesh. And it is vast: In the lower 48,only Yellowstone and Death Valley National Parks are bigger, and within

the parks 1.5 million acres (607,028 hectares) is the countrys largest

wilderness east o the Mississippi River. All you have to do is show up.

Great Parks / Everglades

One-Night StandThwarting most expectations of the Everglades, a hike or bikeride along the seven-mile (11-kilometer) Long Pine Key NatureTrail is one of the few ways to check out the park and stay dryThe route between Long Pine Key Campground and Pine GladesLake links a series of hardwood hummocks that rise above grassywetlands. These unique habitats harbor the most diverse lifefound this side of a coral reef: some 900 species of critters, fromwild turkeys to white-tailed deer, black bears to gators. And ifyoure ever going to glimpse a panther, itll be here.

Three Days or MoreOf the epic trails in the U.S., the one you likely hear the leastabout is the Wilderness Waterway. The 99-mile (159-kilometer)route wends amid thousands of mangrove islands from EvergladesCity to Florida Bay and is a grail among canoers and kayakers.Plan on ten days to paddle the whole shebang, or opt for aweekend-length loop from the Gulf Coast Visitor Center that linkthe Lopez River, Sweetwater Bay, and Rabbit Key campsites. Its31 miles (50 miles), give or take, and youll camp on the ground,covered platforms (chickees), and a beach. Theres a strongchance youll see dolphins and manatees along the way. Moreoptions may soon be available, as the park rebuilds sites damageby Hurricane Wilma in October 2005. Come prepared withcharts and permits, plus the ever useful Guide to the WildernessWaterway of the Everglades National Park, all of which areavailable at the Gulf Coast Visitor Center, near Everglades City.

Must-Do SecretEverglades National Park doesnt stop on the mainland. A thirdof the park 800 square miles (1,287 square kilometers)liesoffshore in Florida Bay and tends to be overlooked by everyonebut avid shermen. Anglers come for the tarpon and warybonesh (nothing has more ounce-for-ounce ght); but even ifyoure not a sherman, its worth going out on a boat for a daywith a guide. The water is shallow and placid, with greenish bluesea grass just under the surface. Estuaries and islands harbor

thousands of subtropical birds. Its a prime place to kick back,dangle your feet over the gunwales, and let your binoculars roam.

VitalsFor paddling information and backcountry permits ($10),visit www.nps.gov/ever. Canoes ($35 a day) and kayaks($45 a day) are available from North American Canoe Tours(www.evergladesadventures.com), in Everglades City.The Ivey House B&B ($50; www.iveyhouse.com) has comfyrooms just outside the park, also in Everglades City.

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10/22

One-Night StandDue to their heritage as retreats for wealthy railroad travelers,the parks of the Canadian Rockies meld adventure withcomfort better than their U.S. counterparts. Case in point: thehike to Asulkan Cabin in B.C.s Glacier National Park. From theIllecillewaet parking lot off the Trans-Canada Highway, the

Asulkan Valley Trail traces a roaring brook for three miles (5kilometers), then takes on an adrenaline-pumping knife-edgeridge. Trails end is at a knotty-pine hut dramatically situatedon the cusp of Illecillewaet Snowfield and at the maw ofAsulkan Glacier. Outfitted with propane stoves and somebasic but comfortable bunks, the hut is a godsend after a big day.

Three Days or MoreThe complete Canadian Rockies experience, the 34-mileRockwall Trail in Kootenay National Park combines soaringpeaks, outrageous wildowers, groaning glaciers, and crystalclear meltwater lakes. Set out from the Floe Lake trailhead,off Provincial Route 93, and climb to an otherworldly tarn thatreects a towering 3,200-foot (5,150-kilometer) wall above. Thenext day hump over Numa and Tumbling Passes, gawking atthe hanging glacier on the east ank of Mount Gray, and descendto a trail camp at Tumbling Creek. Finally, make the grunt upRockwall Pass, and there youll have it: an unadulterated viewof the Rockwall, a sheer 19-mile (31-kilometer) face of Ottertaillimestone. Drop down to Helmet Falls Campground, set up camp,and stroll upstream for a look at the nearby cascade. Hike backto your car shuttle by way of the Helmet Creek Trail.

Must-Do SecretThe Bow River is the absolute heart of the wildly popular BanffNational Park, so its remarkable few people ever think to paddleit. With only the occasional rife greater than Class I, the riverallows ample time to lay back and drink in Banffs seeminglyendless procession of pyramid-shaped peaks. For a one-day trip,put in below Lake Louise and take out 14 miles (23 kilometers)southeast at Castle Junction.

VitalsThough huts in the Canadian Rockies abound, most locals viefor the gloriously situated (and hard to reserve) Elizabeth ParkerHut ($27), at Lake OHara in Yoho National Park. For reservationsthere or at the Asulkan Cabin ($17), contact the Alpine Club ofCanada (www.alpineclubofcanada.ca). The Fairmont ChateauLake Louise rents canoes ($33 an hour; www.fairmont.com/lakelouise). For info on each of the parks, go to www.pc.gc.ca.

Claim a National TreasureWhile the U.S. has its share o alpine scenery, lets be honest: Nothing

rivals the Canadian Rockies. Matterhorn-like peaks hem broad alpine

valleys and glaciers eed lakes so blue and green youd think Mother

Nature was ooling with ood coloring. Five national parksBan,

Glacier, Jasper, Kootenay, and Yohoprotect the lions share o the

sights. And together they make up one o the worlds most stunningoutdoor playgrounds.

Great Parks / Canadian Rockies Overall RatingScenery

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11/22

Dive into the DitchPerhaps the most iconic o all natural wonders in North America, the

Grand Canyon is pretty much obligatory are or this lietime. That said,

its only right to pay the ditch a little more homage than a tailgate picnic.

Instead, venture away rom the crowds and into the depths to absorb

natures greatest work the same way it was madeslowly and in peace.

Great Parks / Grand Canyon

One-Night StandOn a quick stop, theres no t ime for a knee-pounding plummet,so tone down the ambition and focus on one thing: unmitigatedsplendor. From a base camp at North Rim Campground or theGrand Canyon Lodge, head for the Widforss Point Trail fora ten-mile (16-kilometer) out-and-back hike. The gradual path

ducks in and out of a fragrant evergreen forest only to emerge fora stunning view at Widforss Point. From there youll look southtoward such landmark formations as the Brahma, Deva, andZoroaster Temples and across to the South Rim.

Three Days or MoreWith all due respect for a rim-to-rim hike, the Hermit Trail,a 15.4-mile (25-kilometer) round-trip below the South Rim,delivers much of the same impact and none of the mule trains.Start at Hermits Rest off Hermit Road and descend into the red-rock abyss a 3,800-foot (1,158-meter) plunge that was carvedout for hikers by Santa Fe Railroad workers. Camp at HermitCreek and take day hikes on nearby portions of the scenic TontoTrail and down to the Colorado River.

Must-Do SecretAs far as desert road trips go, the 61-mile (98-kilometer)Sunshine Route, south from State Route 389, must be in the topten. The rough but generally 2WD-able route delves into a remotwestern section of the park known as the Arizona Strip and endsat Toroweap Overlook, a 3,000-foot (914-meter) bright ocher freefall straight down to the Colorado. When you arrive, you justmay have the view, and one of 11 nearby primitive (no water)campsites, to yourself.

VitalsOn the South Rim, Bright Angel Lodge has rooms($50; www.xanterra.com) and detached cabins ($109).On the North Rim, Grand Canyon Lodge has upscale rooms($96; www.grandcanyonnorthrim.com) and good food.For park info, camp reservations, and backcountry permits($10, plus $5 a night per person), visit www.nps.gov/grca.

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Discover Your FjordStanding atop Gros Morne Mountain, youd swear you were in the

Arctic. Barren granite and scruy tundra an out in every direction.

But look down into the lush, glacier-cut valleys and a dierent scene

emerges. Long, jordlike lakes are rimmed with clis and riotous

vegetation. In the distance, the Gul o St . Lawrence glints in the sun.

The sight is spellbinding, t or car commercials and eature lms,

but in Gros Morne National Park, its all or you.

Great Parks / Gros Morne

One-Night StandFor all of the views with little of the effort, make for a campsite atSnug Harbor, on the edge of Western Brook Pond, accessible viathe three-and-a-half-mile (6-kilometer) Western Brook Pond Trail.Once you cross the suspension bridge, youll leave the day hikersbehind and be walking in a private world.

Three Days or MoreAt the heart of Gros Morne are the Long Range Mountains, thelast gasp of the Appalachians. To see them at their nest, makethe storied Long Range Traverse, a 22-mile (35-kilometer) traillesshike that runs from the east end of Western Brook Pond (get thereaboard the commercial tour boat West Brook 3) south to the JamesCallahan Trail parking lot. Youll need basic map-and-compassskills, but as reward youll ascend Gros Morne Mountain; spotmoose, caribou, arctic hares, and black bears; and enjoy stunningfjord and coastal views.

Must-Do SecretA quiet kayak paddle on the ultrapure waters of Trout RiverPond gets you face-to-face with a geology textbook called theTablelands 2,365 feet (721meters) of exposed earth. Its bronzecolor hails from peridotite displaced from below the planetscrust. Also on view are iron, magnesium, chrome, and nickel.

VitalsMiddle Brook Cottages & Chalets ($65; www.middlebrookcottages.com), in Glenburnie, has clean, comfortable cottages. Hikers onthe Long Range Traverse must register with the park or signup with an outtter; BikeHike Adventures offers an eight-daytrip ($1,650; www.bikehike.com). For park info and hikingregistration, visit www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/nl/grosmorne/index_e.asp.

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13/22

Pay Tribute to the KingJohn Muir was prophetic when he wrote that in Yosemite Valley Nature

had gathered her choicest treasures, to draw her lovers into close and

conding communion with her. That communion can get downright cozy

with the parks 3.4 million visitors a year. But the truth is, they dont all

need to squeeze into the seven-mile (11-kilometer) valley. Marvel at

the temple, by all means, but look to high country, low country, and the

unsung glories o the Sierra Nevada or your solitude. Theres a lot o

park out there.

Great Parks / Yosemite

One-Night StandJust off Tioga Road in Tuolumne Meadows is the trail to ElizabethLake. Its only a ve-mile (8-kilometer) hike, but one that distillsall the joys of the High Sierra into an easy jaunt. Youll take ingranite outcroppings; lodgepole pines; grassy, ower-strewedmeadows; and, nally, the frigid reecting pool of Elizabeth Lake

The glacial tarn lies at 9,508 feet (2,898 meters), beneath 10,823-foot (3,299-meters) Unicorn Peak. Camp here and youll have seenYosemite even if you never venture into the valley.

Three Days or MoreIf Yosemite has a gentle side, its near the settlement of Wawona,in the southern portion of the park. The elevations are lower butthis is still the majestic Sierra just with a longer hiking seasonand fewer crowds. For a three-day highlights tour, forge a 22-mile(35-kilometer) clockwise loop, hiking from Wawona to BuenaVista Pass. Along the way, stop off at Chilnualna Fall, a series offoamy tumbles that would be a major tourist attraction were itin Yosemite Valley. Camp the rst night just down from the passat Buena Vista Lake, in a beautifully carved cirque below 9,709-foot (2,959 meter) Buena Vista Peak. On day two take it easy:Wind your way through forest until you reach the picture-perfect

campsites at either Johnson or Crescent Lakes.

Must-Do SecretIt sounds preposterous, but theres a hidden path in the heart ofYosemite. The 13-mile (21-kilometer) Valley Floor Loop Trail isan old bridle path that hasnt seen much trafc since the 1950s.Still, the trail is signed and very much intact. Pick it up behindYosemite Lodge or Camp 4 and walk west, hugging the base ofEl Capitan, as far as Pohono Bridge. There, the trail crosses overto the south side of the valley, then east past Bridalveil Fall,through El Capitan Meadow, and across Swinging Bridge overthe Merced River for a stunning view of Upper Yosemite Fall.

VitalsThe pine-shrouded cabins at Evergreen Lodge, about 500 yards(457 meters) from the parks western boundary on the road toHetch Hetchy Reservoir, are a good way to dodge the larger andlouder campgrounds in the valley ($129; www.evergreenlodge.com). For park info and free backcountry permits, visitwww.nps.gov/yose.

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14/22

Deserted CoastHuge, wet Pacic storms pummel the west coast o Vancouver Island

every winter, blessing it with the obvious ingredient any temperate

rain orest needs to fourish. The result is lush abundance. Stands o

old-growth spruce, red cedar, and hemlock crowd deserted headlands.

Oshore, seabirds squawk, sea lions bark, and whales breach. At the

heart o it all are the three units o Pacic Rim National Park Reserve

Long Beach, the West Coast Trail, and the Broken Group Islandsa Wild

Kingdom just north o the international border.

Great Parks / Pacific Rim

One-Night StandWhen hiking one of North Americas wettest places (120 inchesor 305 centimeters of precipitation annually), visitors would dowell to bring an umbrella and stick to the oodles of thoughtfullyplanned trails that lace the narrow Long Beach unit. The hikingis generally easy, often with boardwalks that span mossy bogs.

Our favorite route is the one-and-a-half-mile (2.4-kilometer)Nuu-chah-nulth Trail, which connects Long Beach to Florencia Beach.The path winds through some truly exceptional forest and leadsdirectly to 13 miles (21 kilometers) of deliriously deserted coast.

Three or More DaysA hundred-plus forested isles are scattered within Pacic RimsBroken Group Islands unit. And that translates into a sea-kayaking paradise. For experienced paddlers, an eight-mile(13-kilometer) loop linking the solitary anchorages and campsitesof Hand, Willis, Dodd, and Gibraltar Islands provides ampleopportunity to spot sea life, traipse around tide pools, andexplore among the giant trees. To do it youll need to bring waterand maps, and you should arrange for a powerboat shuttle fromLady Rose Marine Services, in Port Alberni. The less experiencedshould set up a similar trip with the professionals at Majestic

Ocean Kayaking, out of Ucluelet.

Must-Do SecretStrange as it may sound, Pacic Rim is the nexus of a hot year-round surng scene in the chilly waters off Long Beach. Bigrollers and perfect barrels abound, but theyre particularlydynamic during the winter storms.

VitalsPacic Sands Beach Resort, just north of t he Long Beach unit,has ecofriendly oceanfront rooms ($170; www.pacicsands.com). Lady Rose Marine Services has powerboat shuttlesfor sea kayakers ($30; www.ladyrosemarine.com). MajesticOcean Kayaking offers four-day paddling trips ($800; www.oceankayaking.com). Surf Sister (www.surfsister.com), in Tono,has lessons ($75, including board). For guided nature hikesin the Long Beach unit, contact Long Beach Nature Tours($160 a day for up to five people; www.oceansedge.bc.ca).Permits are required for camping in the Broken Group Islands($8 a night; www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/bc/pacicrim).

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Weird and WildBetween the U.S. and Canada, there are more than 148 million

acres in the National Park System. Within all that territory, it only

goes to gure youll nd everything rom mind-bending natural

phenomena and plentiul wildlie to sybaritic pleasures. Guess

which parks hold the ollowing treasures.

Great Parks

NATIONALGEOGRAPHICADVENTUR

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Where in the national parks?

1. Brightest light shows

2. Most dramatic waterall

3. Clearest, bluest lake

4. Hottest melt-your-boots hikes

5. Tallest uninterrupted rock ace

6. Largest nonpolar ice ield

7. Biggest bat colony

8. Bird-watchers heaven

9. Highest concentration bears

10. Best whale superhighway

11. Top spot or hig h tea

12. Huckleberry headquarters

13. Steamiest soaks

14. Freshest lobster

15. Coolest view rom a lodge

Brightest light shows

The night sky in Denali NationalPark can be a light showiyoure awake to catch it. Frommid-August through September,

arrange or a wake-up call at anyo the our Denali Park Resorts,and when the aurora appears,theyll ring you.

www.denaliparkresorts.com

Most dramatic waterall

In a park ull o wateralls, one othe most spectacular is also themost ephemeral: In the light osunset, or about a week at the

end o February, Horsetail Fall, inYosemite National Park, becomesa cascade o re and lightstreaming o El Capitan.

www.nps.gov/yose

Clearest, bluest lake

Ultrapure rainall and snowmelteed Crater Lake, so its water,1,943 eet deep (592 meters deep)is as clear as any in the world.

Now, go ig: Its also consideredthe bluest; ew contaminantsmean blue light can penetratedeeper. Crater Lakes nearest rivalin the bluest-blue contest is theocean around Easter Island.

www.nps.gov/crla

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Top spot or high tea

Ater a hike, paddle, or a bike ridein Acadia National Park, visitorscan partake in one o the parksystems most unique pleasures:high tea on the lawn at JordanPond House, where theyve beenserving resh popovers withstrawberry jam since the early1870s. Worth it? Um, yea.

www.jordanpond.com

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Best whale superhighway

O the coast o Fundy NationalPark, the world-renowned bigtides their 12-hour fow equalsthe combined 24-hour fow o allthe rivers in the world churnup a nutrient east that drawsiteen species o whales, morethan in any single spot in theworld. Part-time residents includehumpbacks, nbacks, minkes, andthe rare North Atlantic right whale.

www.novascotiawhalewatching.ca

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Huckleberry headquarters

The meadows o Glacier NationalPark burst with huckleberries inthe summer, and theyre yoursor the picking, especially alongthe Upper Loop Trail or the aptlynamed Huckleberry Lookout Trail.Or take the lazy mans route andchow down on the reshly bakedhuckleberry cheesecake at theLake McDonald Lodge.

www.glacierparkinc.com/

lakemcdonaldlodge.htm

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Bird-watchers heaven

Point Pelee National Park, inOntario, is a tiny spit o land inLake Erie (and the southernmostpoint in Canada), but well knownin winged migration circles.Its one o North Americas topspring and all birding spots (382species recorded), and comeSeptember, monarch butterfiesby the hundreds o thousandspass through beore fying to theirwinter grounds in Mexico.www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/on/pelee

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Biggest bat colony

Every evening rom May to October,400,000 Mexican ree-tail batspour out o Carlsbad Cavern,in Carlsbad Caverns NationalPark, in search o a hearty insectdinner. The seething river o wingsand chirps is so impressive youmay want to come back the nextmorning and watch it in reverse.www.nps.gov/cave

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Highest concentration o bears

Some 2,000 brown bears live inKatmai National Park, the greatestconcentration in the U.S. parkssystem, and each July, they headto sh in the Brooks River, part othe worlds largest sockeye salmonrun. Watching the action romone o the parks two observationplatorms is a sae way to get aglimpse. I you miss it, show up inSeptember, when the bears preyon spawned-out sh.www.nps.gov/katm

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Freshest lobster

Lobster doesnt get any resher,nor dinner more indulgent, than atDalvay by the Sea in Prince EdwardIsland National Park. Islandlobsters go straight rom pots tothe inspired, wood-paneled diningroom o a 111-year-old estate.

www.dalvaybythesea.com

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Coolest view rom a lodge

The Bucky ONeill Suite, afreestanding cabin built in the 1890that is now part of the Bright AngelLodge, in Grand Canyon National

Park, might be the coolest room inthe U.S. park system: Its perchedright on the South Rim of thecanyon and is about as close to thebig ditch as youd care to sleep.www.grandcanyonlodges.com

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Steamiest soaks

O all the national parks, only oneis exclusively devoted to comort:Hot Springs National Park. Builtaround a cluster o steaming hotsprings, the park is outtted with aseries o old-time bathhouses and143-degree-Celsius (289-degree-Fahreheit) pools. While you soak,consider that the springwater inwhich you luxuriate ell as rain4,400 years ago, about the time othe pharaohs.www.nps.gov/hosp

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Hottest melt-your-boots hikes

The ery tongues o lava in HawaiiVolcanoes National Park are morethan just visual dazzle. Standingat the volcanos edgewhich, yes,you can do, careullythe glassysound o new lava rolling along inthe up to 2,100-degree Fahreheit(1,150-degree Celsius) lowcreaks underoot, and the smell,somewhere between sulury andmetallic, is unorgettable.www.nps.gov/havo

Tallest uninterrupted rock ace

Auyuittuq means permanentlycovered in ice, but enough icemelted ater the last ice ageto reveal the worlds tallestuninterrupted rock ace. The westace o Mount Thor, in AuyuittuqNational Park on Ban Island,looms 4,100 eet (1,250 meters)above its glacial valley foor and isa beacon to climbers everywhere.www.pc.gc.ca/auyuittuq

Largest nonpolar ice eld

The Bagley Iceeld, in WrangellNational Park, is part o the largestnonpolar ice eld in the world aremnant o the last ice age andit eeds most o Kluane NationalParks 2000-plus glaciers, someup to 70-miles- or 113-kilometers-long, making the park the mostglaciated in North America.www.pc.gc.ca/pn.np/yt/kluane

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Ph t h / Ji Ri h d


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Jim RichardsonA National Geographic photographer whose work has taken him

around the world, from the tops of volcanic peaks to below the

surface of swamps and wetlands.

Photographer / Jim Richardson



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Chicago at night burns bright underblankets o clouds. Much o the glowescapes rom streetlamps, including clear,Victorian-style lamps good or creatingatmosphere but poor or harnessingtodays extra-bright bulbs.


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The uniormly whitewashed cottages oPennan, Scotland, line up around a quietcove in Moray Firth as boats rest within asmall manmade harbor. The town has beenin existence or over a thousand years butgained international ame in the 1980s asthe ictional village o Ferness in thepopular movie Local Hero.


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A starry night gleams above OwachomoBridge in Utahs Natural Bridges NationalMonument named the rst Dark Sky Parkby the International Dark-Sky Association.



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Jim Richardson is an Americanphotojournalist working primarily forthe National Geographic Society andas a social documentary photographerrecognized for his explorations ofsmall-town life.

Richardsons rst story for NationalGeographic magazine appeared in1984. Since then, he has become oneof the magazines most productivecontemporary contributingphotographers, with more than20 stories.

Richardson also is a contributing

editor of National Geographic Travelermagazine, where he has contributedboth writing and photographs. He alsois a popular speaker and workshopleader in the U.S. and abroad.

Biography

FERAL MAGAZIN

Overcoming a swell o threatening clouds,the heavens part over Hawaiis Lanai Island,bestowing a celestial glow on a patchworko ormer pineapple ields. Lanai onceproduced almost 75 percent o the worldspineapples; today, as production movesto cheaper markets overseas, Hawaiianarmers are converting their elds intosolar energy arms.

Section Name

Moon Calender


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FERAL MAGAZIN

CREDIT

Section NameMoon Calender


An old bristlecone pine against the Milky

Way as a meteor streaks across the skyin the White mountains, Caliornia.Photograph by Tom Lowe

First QuarterWednesday, Nov. 2nd

Full MoonThursday, Nov. 10th

Last QuarterFriday, Nov. 18th

New MoonThursday, Nov. 24th

November 2011


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