february meeting presentation - florida scc - home coconut oil as a starting raw material. in these...

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FLSCC.ORG 2016 Issue #1 January/February

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February Meeting PresentationPresentation Abstract - Mitigating Adverse Effects of Sunlight with Zeta Fractions

from Living Plants by Artyom Duev

Damaging effects of sunlight on human skin are well known. Overly high exposure leads to acute adverse reaction involving irritation and inflammation, such as UV induced sunburn. However, more than 90% of full solar radi-ation spectrum is in the VIS - IR range, and its potential contribution to skin damage is being increasingly recognized. Sun exposures insufficient to cause acute skin reaction can still trigger inflammation-related processes; and accumulated inflammatory damage significantly contributes to degradation of skin resilience and development of undesirable appearance, in a process known as photoaging.

BioMaterials scientists developed in vitro cell culture based bioassay to study and quantify irritation and inflammation processes associated with full spectrum sun exposure. It is based on culturing epidermal keratinocytes from human skin (HEK) that release numerous signaling substances such as cytokines (IL-6), chemokines (IL-8) and prostaglandins (PGE2) in response to sunlight. Amounts of these mediators are mea-sured via techniques such as Enzyme-Linked Immunosorbent Assay (ELISA).

Bioactive ingredients capable of reducing HEK release of these inflammatory mediators may help control the signs of irritation and inflam-mation in human skin.

Zeta Fractions obtained from living plants were evaluated in this bioassay.

Inhibition of IL-6, IL-8 and PGE2 induced in HEK culture by full-spectrum simulated sun-light was used for the assessment of ingredients potency and efficacy.

The in vitro experimental results suggest that Zeta Fractions provide multi-functional activ-ities that work together to mitigate adverse ef-fects caused by full spectrum sunlight exposure

Artyom DuevArtyom Duev received his Pharmaceutical Sciences degree from University of Cincinna-ti School of Pharmacy, with undergraduate background in biology and computer science.

His current work focuses on in vitro testing methods supporting development and applications of plant-derived bioactive ingredients produced by Zeta Fraction technology, as well as efficacy of sun protection products.

Artyom is a co-inventor in six patent applica-tions and co-author in nine articles and eight presentations, with topics including anti-aging, bioactivities of plant materials, and Expanded Protection Wavelength (EPW, nm) metric.

He is a member of American Society of Phar-macognosy and Society of Cosmetic Chemists.

Call for Articles

Submissions for Technical Articles for publication in the Florida Chap-ter of Cosmetic Chemists Newslet-ter, The Sunshine State Signal, are accepted at [email protected]

FLSCC Membership

If you have not renewed your membership please visit

www.scconline.org and register. Renewals are due by 30 Decem-ber 2015 for 2016. We want you to continue to be an active

part of FLSCC.

Page 2 - Officers - Upcoming Events

Page 3 - From the Chair - All About the Chemistry-Page 5- Chemists’ CornerPage 6- Photo GalleryPage 8 - Employment

Page 9- Newsletter Sponsors

February Meeting Information

Date: 25 February 2016

Location: Dave and Busters - Hollywood, Florida

Cocktail Hour Sponsored by

RSVP no later than February 19, 2016 by emailing [email protected]

Contents

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FLSCC 2015 Officers

Chair Sandy [email protected]

Chair-elect Marisa Bailey [email protected]

SecretaryDiane M. [email protected]

TreasurerStephen Dawes [email protected]

Membership/Bylaws ChairChris [email protected]

Area IV Directors Danielle [email protected]

Michelle [email protected]

Newsletter EditorSandi [email protected]

AdvertisingMarisa [email protected]

RSVP to Chapter MeetingsflsccRSVP2gmail.com

Websitehttp://www.flscc.org

SCC National Office120 Wall StreetSte 2400New York, NY 10005-4088(212) 668-1500FAX (212) 668-1504email: [email protected]: www.scconline.org

Upcoming Events

February Meeting25 February 2016 - Dave and Busters, Hollywood/Ft. Lauderdale.

March Meeting24 March 2016 - Columbia Resaurant2117 E. 7th Ave. Tampa, FL

April Meeting 28 April 2016 - Dave and Busters8986 International Drive, Orlando, FL

Educational Seminar - All Day22 September 2016 - Coral Springs Marriott, Ft. Lauderdale

IFSCC Congress30 October - 2 November 2016 - Lake Buena Vista, FL

The Society of Cosmetic Chemists will be the host Society for the 29th Congress of the International Federation of the Soci-eties of Cosmetic Chemists in Orlando in October 2016. The event will take place at the Walt Disney World® Resort Dolphin Hotel. The dates will be October 30- No-vember 2, 2016.

We are pleased to announce that there will be an exhibition held on Monday and Tuesday of the Congress similar to the exhibition held during the 2004 Congress. The exhibition will take place in the newly renovated Pacific Hall at the Dolphin Hotel. This Hall was a great venue for the 2004 Congress exhibition and it is sure to be even better for 2016. We are planning some innovative new booth concepts and floor plans for the event, and with close to 2,000 people expected to attend, this will be the “Premier” Exhibition in 2016.

The cost per 10’ x 10’ booth is $5,500. Like 2004, the fee will include one full registration to the entire Congress plus an additional four exhibitor passes.

The Exhibition Hall is filling up fast! Re-serve your spot before we sell out!

If you feel your company would like to be an exhibitor, please complete the Exhib-itor Interest Form at https://ifscc2016.com/exhibit/exhibitor-order-form/ as soon as possible and return the form to the SCC office per the instructions listed on the form. We will ensure you receive the Exhibitor Prospectus information.

We look forward to your participation at the Congress!

SCC National CEP Courseswww.SCConline.org/events

March Courses

March 14-15BASIC SKIN AND ADVANCED SKIN SCIENCE - Instructed By R. Randall Wickett, Ph.D

March 22EMULSIFIERS FOR COSMETICS: STRUCTURES AND PRACTICAL APPLICATION - Instructed By Ricardo Diez, Ph.D.

April Course

April 6COSMETIC RHEOLOGY - Instructed By Dennis Laba

June Courses

June 6PRACTICAL COSMETIC PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT - Instructed By Perry Romanowski

June 22IMAGING TECHNOLOGIES AND IMAGE ANALYSIS TECHNIQUES FOR PERSONAL CARE - Instructed By Roger L. Mcmullen, Ph.D

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Complimentary online subscription

SOFW JOURNAL – 1 yearPlease send Promo Code FLSCCSOFWto [email protected]

FLSCC Website SponsorshipIf your Company would like to spon-sor the FLSCC website please email [email protected].

Rates for sponsorship and for your company logo to appear on the website is $800.00 annually.

How Do Cosmetic Raw Materials Get Their Names?

by Perry Romanowski

I must confess. One of my favorite things about being a chem-ist is getting to say long words and knowing what they mean. I loved learning the IUPAC system for naming chemicals.

That’s why I found ingredient lists on shampoos & condition-ers baffling. I didn’t know what most of the chemicals were. They were similar to IUPAC terms, but not quite. It turns out that the cosmetic industry doesn’t use the IUPAC nam-ing system. Instead, they follow their own system as laid out in the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients

(INCI) dictionary. This volume is produced by the main cosmetic industry trade group called the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC, formerly the CTFA but we’ll save that for another time).

List of IngredientsThe first thing to know about cosmetic ingredients is the ingredient list. In the United States, every personal care and cosmetic product is supposed to have their ingredients listed. In the business, we called it the LOI (list of ingredients). Any ingredient above 1% is required to be listed in order of con-centration (by weight). At 1% or below, the ingredients can be listed in any order. Typically, preservatives and dyes are listed at the end. In a future post, we’ll show how this labeling require-ment can help you formulate new products.

Any ingredient above 1% is required to be listed in order of concentration (by weight).

To be proper, companies are supposed to follow the naming conventions as laid out in the INCI.

Cosmetic Ingredient Naming ConventionsWhile many chemical names in the INCI seem arbitrary, there are some standard rules. The following will help you make heads or tails out of the ingredients on most LOIs. We can’t list all the conventions here, but we’ll point out the major ones and give examples.

Common NamesWhen they first came up with the INCI (originally called the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary) in 1973, many cosmet-ic ingredients already had names. These common names were incorporated into the dictionary even though they didn’t follow

From the ChairHappy 2016! As we move into the new year filled with potential, I would like to thank the outgoing officers for their outstand-ing service, especially Regina Lim for her wonderful leadership over the past two

years. I hope to pickup from where she left off and continue to represent SCC honorably throughout my tenure as Chair of the Florida Chapter of Society of Cosmetic Chemists. I would also like to introduce the new officers to the group. Marisa Bailey as Chair-Elect, Diane Tramontana as Secretary, and of course, Stephen Dawes as Treasurer. I look forward to working with these wonderful people in the coming years. Sandi Palofer has taken on the newsletter editor duties on top of the website management and is looking for articles for the publication; both entry level and advanced subject matter. If you would like to have your technical articles featured in The Sunshine Signal, please email them to her at [email protected]. Thank you for your support and I look forward to seeing you at the February meeting at Dave and Busters in Hollywood, FL. Sandy Knox

If your company is interested in sponsoring the Florida Chapter Society of Cosmetic Chemists newsletter, please email us at

[email protected].

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any specific naming rules. Therefore, we use Glycerin instead of the more accurate Glycerol and Menthol instead of (1R, 2S, 5R)-2-isopropyl-5-methylcyclohexanol. Common names are also used for various natural ingredients like Lanolin and Beeswax.

Stem NamesProbably the most important thing to learn about naming cos-metic ingredients is to memorize this list of hydrocarbon stem names. It’s a bit different than the IUPAC.

So, if you have a 16-carbon alcohol, you call it Cetyl Alcohol instead of Hexadecanol. For an 18-carbon acid, you would use Stearic Acid instead of Ocatdecanoic acid.

MixturesYou’ll run into names like Cocamidopropyl Betaine that don’t match any of the stem names. This is because the raw material uses coconut oil as a starting raw material. In these cases, you use an abbreviation of that starting material. Other ones you might see include Palm Kernel oil, Soybean oil and Sunflower oil. In a future post, we’ll show the fatty acid distribution of these materials.

DerivativesThe INCI tries to follow established conventions from other systems. For example, when you want to name an ether, you take the stem names from both fatty acids and add the term ether. Thus, a molecule made with a 14-carbon and 16-carbon chains connected by an oxygen would be called Cetyl Myristyl Ether. An ester of the same molecules would be Cetyl Myri-state.

Nitrogen ContainingHydrocarbons that contain nitrogen are amides and have the phrase included in their name. Therefore, Lauramide is used to describe a 12-Carbon molecule (Lauryl) that has a NH2 group on its end. If the Nitrogen has other hydrocarbons attached, those are also named. So, Lauramide DEA would be that same 12-Carbon molecule attached to a Nitrogen which also has Eth-yl groups attached to it. When these Nitrogen containing com-pounds are turned into salts, the suffix “-monium” is added. So, a 16-Carbon attached to a Nitrogen with three methyl groups is Cetrimonium Chloride.

PolymersA variety of conventions are used to name polymers. For Nitrogen containing polymers, the term “Polyquaternium” is used. There is also a number associated with the ingredient but it doesn’t refer to anything chemically. It just happens to be the order in which the material was registered.

Other polymers use common abbreviations. PEG is Polyeth-ylene Glycol. PPG is Polypropylene Glycol, etc. Then a number is included to refer to the moles of ethoxylation in the polymer.

SiliconesFor silicone containing materials, terms like Dimethicone, Cy-clomethicone and amodimethicone are used. Whenever you see some form of these words in a chemical name, you know there is some silicone in it.

ColorantsTen years ago, you used to see the abbreviation FD&C in front of many chemical colorants. Today, however, the INCI has adopted a simplified method for naming colors. They just list the color followed by a number (e.g. Yellow 5). This doesn’t tell you anything about the chemical composition but you can get the structure by looking it up in the INCI. An alternative nam-ing system is the EU one in which each colorant is assigned a 5-digit chemical index (CI) number. Yellow 5 in the EU is called CI 19140.

Miscellaneous RulesThere are many other rules that you’ll have to learn over time. To give you a flavor here are a few more. • Water is just called Water. (Not deionized or purified or anything else. Just water)• Fragrance is called Fragrance no matter what compounds are used to make it. This is changing but for now, it’s correct.• Botanicals use the Latin name of the plant or part plus the term Extract. So, if you use an ingredient taken from the leaf of a lemon, the ingredient is called Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Leaf Extract.

ConclusionThe naming of raw materials in cosmetics share some charac-teristics with the IUPAC system you learned in Organic Chem-istry. However, there are many differences and for some things it is impossible to determine the chemical structure from just the name. For more information, your best bet is to go to your company’s library (or your city’s) and take a look at the latest version of the INCI.

Article used with permission of the author. http://chemistscorner.com

Call for ArticlesSubmissions for

Technical Articles for publication in the Florida Chapter of Cosmetic Chemists Newsletter, The Sunshine State Signal, are accepted at [email protected]

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Article used with permission of the author. http://chemistscorner.com

Sun Damage in the Dark – Yes, in the Darkby Perry RomanowskiContributing authors –

Meaghan Lee-Erlandsen and Dr. Nora Khaldi of Nuritas Guest post

Here is some surprising research that suggests a new angle to explore in the formulating of skin care and sunscreens.dark-sunscreen

We at Nuritas have always thought that sun damage occurred during sun exposure and ended immediately after returning indoors. To our surprise, recent research published in Science and conducted by Prof. Douglas E. Brash, Clinical Professor of Therapeutic Ra-diology and Dermatology at Yale School of Medicine, and co-authors, shows that most sun damage occurs hours after exposure, even in the dark!

As many of us know, too much sun exposes the body to high amounts of ultraviolet radiation (UV) which damages the DNA in melanocytes, the cells that make melanin (melanin is what gives your skin its color). What we didn’t know is that most of this damage happens hours after sun exposure.

This DNA damage is a major cause of skin cancer and in sun-ny places such as Australia it accounts for 80% of all newly di-agnosed cancers (1). Indeed, two in every three Australians will be diagnosed with skin cancer by the age of 72. This of course is not limited to warm countries as one may unfortunately underestimate the effects of UV on the skin in areas where clouds are a common feature (UV light can go through clouds) or in colder regions with sunny skies. Indeed, one in every three cancers diagnosed globally is a skin cancer. We wanted to understand a little more of Prof. Brash’s recent finding and thus asked him to provide us with a layman’s summary of this work as well as tell us if he forecasts any possible solutions.

Prof. Brash explains “My co-authors and I found that the ultra-violet radiation interacts with melanin to cause cyclobutane dimers for hours after the UV exposure ends. A cyclobutane dimer occurs when two adjacent ‘letters’ in DNA attach to

each other and bend the DNA, preventing the information inside the DNA from being read correctly which is the start of DNA damage. We found that nearly half of the DNA damage associated with the cyclobutane dimers occurs after sun expo-sure.”

More precisely he explains that what was ultimately happening during this process was that the UV rays activated two enzymes that combined to excite an electron in the melanin, the energy generated from this excitation (known as chemiexcitation) was then transferred to the DNA, thus creating the same DNA damage that sunlight had caused hours before. This type of excitation of electrons has only been previously seen in smaller marine animals and bacteria.

So is this a dead end, or could there possibly be some solu-tions? Prof. Brash thinks that this is not allbad news. The slow pace of these events provides an oppor-

tunity for products and creams that may be able to intervene in this process and eventually block this chemical reaction from happening.

At Nuritas, we find this groundbreaking research incredibly important as further information and understanding of one of the most common cancers in the world is vital to finding healthy and innovative treatments for all stages of its develop-ment. Perhaps in the near future our sun creams will contain an added ingredient

that will inhibit the long-lasting effects of UV, perhaps these ingredients could be peptides!

Here’s to keeping your skin safe and enjoying a happy and healthy sun-filled summer!

References:

Premi S, et al. Chemiexcitation of melanin derivatives induc-es DNA photoproducts long after UV exposure. Science 20 February 2015: Vol. 347 no. 6224 pp. 842-847 DOI: 10.1126/science.1256022

(1) http://www.cancer.org.au/about-cancer/types-of-cancer/skin-cancer.html

(2) http://www.cancer.org.au/about-cancer/types-of-cancer/skin-cancer.html

(3) http://www.who.int/uv/faq/skincancer/en/index1.html

The Chemists’ Corner

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January 2016MeetingPhoto Gallery

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January 2016MeetingPhoto Gallery

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Employment Opportunities

Active Concepts, LLC

Active Concepts LLC was founded in 2000 with the intention of providing the Cosmetic and Personal Care Industries with innovative ingredients. We thrive in today’s rapidly evolving marketing environment by harnessing the latest technological advances to create novel products useful for brand differentiation. Our product development is based on our different platforms of technology, which include delivery systems, bio-actives, biofermentation, extraction, protein chemistry and functional ingredients. Aside from offering an abundance of standard products we also welcome the opportunity to develop raw materials specifically tailored to our customers’ needs. Much of Active Concepts’ success is due to our excellence in providing superior customer service. The combination of our short lead times, strict quality control procedures and efficient technical support guarantee customer satisfaction. Another key factor to our success is our ability to provide interesting marketing concepts that provide brand differentiation. Instead of following the trends we are creating them. Active Concepts is a global company with established facilities in North America, Europe and Asia. Having multiple manufacturing sites allows us to develop and supply products locally so we may fully recognize the needs of different regional markets within the Cosmetic and Personal Care communities. Our goal is to develop unique products that deliver value added benefits while setting a higher standard for customer satisfaction. Job Description: Our Technical Marketing team is looking for a Marketing Coordinator that will be the perfect fit to support, and eventually integrate, with our established department. The Marketing Coordinator will also directly support the President/Chief Visionary Officer with email correspondence, travel arrangements, and scheduling. The ideal candidate will excel in prioritizing and executing tasks, and utilize their science background to support the technical marketing team.

Responsibilities:

Ensure emails are responded to in a timely manner Book travel arrangements and maintain itinerary Schedule and maintain business appointments Administrative support for the technical marketing team Assist in assimilating documents, presentations, and dossiers for the

sales team, distributors and salon personnel Research trends, consumer product desires, collaborate directly with

the marketing team and CVO to promote new products Responsible for social media calendar and physical postings Identify opportunities to bring innovation to existing marketing

practices Qualifications:

Science degree, preferably with a concentration in biology, chemistry or cosmetic science

2-5 years of experience in any of the following fields: Formulating, Marketing, and/ or Research & Development

Knowledge of the cosmetic and personal care industries, markets and technologies

Marketing CoordinatorActive Concepts, LLC. – Lincolnton, North Carolina

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If your company is interested in sponsoring the Florida Chapter Society of Cosmetic Chemists newsletter, please email us at [email protected].

2016 Newsletter Sponsors

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2016 Newsletter Sponsors

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If your company is interested in sponsoring the Florida Chapter Society of Cosmetic Chemists newsletter, please email us at [email protected].

february meeting presentation - florida scc - home coconut oil as a starting raw material. in these...

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