feature denim end jan'13

RE-INVENTING OLD BLUE

38 sportswear international india I ending january 2013 I focus I feature

feature final.indd 38feature final.indd 38 08/11/12 10:51 AM08/11/12 10:51 AM

>Widely projected by celebrities, denim trends of Spring Summer

2012 have been a delight. A bevy of international stars have been

flaunting modish pieces in denims. So, are regular blue denims in

clean lines more in demand over the funky, printed, patterned or

distressed version?

Is blue colour only for the staid regular Joe and Jane or are they

perceived as classics, meant for those with sophisticated tastes?

Are experimental prints on wild hues favoured only by the painfully

trendy, or can regular college kids capitalise on the look? What’s hot

on the radar of fashion pundits as sale-able trends in denims? If there

were to be a debate on ruling denim trends, then it starts right here.

We asked leaders of the trade, what kind of denims should stores

stock up on this Fall Winter and in Spring Summer 2013. Read on.

Medley of printsIn the denim world, 2012 will be best remembered for its eclectic

prints. Although it started a year before that; this time a deluge of

varied prints, overshadowing the timeless blue.

Prints are very important for the next spring summer collection too

and floral patterns are likely to rule as suggested by both Pepe and

GAS. Chetan Shah, Country Head, Pepe Jeans India, says, “Printed

denims – be it floral, animal motifs or just abstract are taking the

retail by storm-creating their own space. These will not remain niche

but widen their reach.”

“Flowery prints or gritty reptile patterns will highlight some of the

different interpretations of GAS’ Sumatra jeggings for women, having

the second skin effect and five-pockets,” says Barbara Grotto, Head,

Marketing and Communication, GAS Jeans.

According to Ampar Pramod, Executive Director, VOI Jeans, “Laser as

a concept is big internationally and is catching up in India as well. A

lot of brands are using this concept to promote low impact denims to

save water and energy. Laser technology is mostly computerised now

and it reduces the process time.”

Grotto seconds Pramod and says that the laser technology is crucial

to the upcoming spring summer. GAS has used it for a very advanced

THE CLIMATE IN THE DENIM COUNTRY

IS CHANGING. THE DEVELOPERS WOULD

BE OFFERING EVER-WIDER ASSORTMENT OF GOOD OLD JEANS,

PUNCTUATED BY MANY TWISTS. BUT THAT

CLASSIC, VERY MUCH REMAINS A PART OF THE SEASON... BY SHWETA JAIN

MAUGLI, SHUTTERSTOCK.COM


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technique - a treatment that attacks the fabric, and by varying the intensity of the beam,

creates a camouflage effect contaminated with floral elements.

“A trend to look forward to is subtle and detailed placement of prints,” suggests, Brijesh

Shah, Director, Lemax Jeans, adding, “Since the laser-cut technique is much in vogue,

it has a future in denims. However, it would be slow to trickle down to the consumers

because of the costs involved.”

Taking a cue from the European market, VOI Jeans predicts a huge demand of patterned

denims in India. Pramod says, “There is a lot of emphasis on Aztec motifs and animal

prints, which are achieved by either laser technology or discharge printing.”

According to the denim portal Denimsandjeans.com, indigo patterns, striped prints, and

printed wefts will make for huge trends in the coming year. Similarly, Tommy Hilfiger will

be selling printed denims in tonal shades.

One would see animal prints in motley colours such as pink, green and orange, instead of

brown. Busy or 3-D prints will be another trend, while florals will continue to be popular.

Edgy washesYear 2012 might have forgotten stone wash amidst the hues and welcome chaos of prints

but the process will be back in 2013. They are not the regular, in-your-face washes, but

techniques with a difference − bright wefts peeping out of pale warps, will appear in

distressed denims. Other interesting wash will be the one with spray-paint effect, in

varied colour schemes.

GAS will stock this trend. The brand will experiment with medium to

medium-light shades treated with sandpapering and light washes

to give a “raw and used” look that is fluid and tactile, bright but still

discreet. Sophisticated treatments using tone on tone yarns, patches,

coloured spots and dirtying will be done too.

Whereas, at Lemax you would find washes on the darker lines, with

minimal streaks and handwork. Pepe will be selling jeans having

more of raw rinse, worn look and diluted-effect washes. For

Autumn Winter 2012-13, Celio has lent their denims a very strong

streetwear feel highlighted by a heavy influence of both classic

and stone washes; as well as waxed raw jeans.

However much some of us like our washes, there’s one

dissenting brand - VOI, which stresses that natural treatments

will prevail in the coming seasons, inclining more towards eco-

friendly denims.

Distressed - to be or not It emerged as the singular major denim trend in last two

years and got the denim lovers hooked to it. Although

distressed denims are highlighted by frayed ends or

ripped thighs, many brands and designers are showing

the tear camouflaged by numerous add-ons. One of

them is patching lace to the denim, the other being

painting warp and weft in two contrasting tones.

And yet others like Shah and Pramod feel that the

absolute smashed look won’t rule the trend charts.

Raw and “worn in” look which appears over the time

by regular use, like fade-in and natural whiskers

will be in demand say experts.

Designer Phillip Lim showed variations of the

worn look, enhanced by patchwork, in his Resort

m to

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DENIMS FROM PEPE

JEANS LONDON

LEMAX JEANS


2013 collection. Even at Pepe one wouldn’t see extremely

torn denims but a hint of distressed will be there in upcoming

collections. GAS is giving an up to date, sophisticated “raw used”

interpretation, which is not distressed.

Taking it further, the treatment will lend itself to ripped jackets

and skirts as well.

Fabric mishmashThe jeans isn’t pure denim anymore. A lot of fabrics are mixed

and matched at various manufacturing units. Linen blends with

denim, stretch denims consisting of LYCRA®, sateen weaves,

knitted denims, 3-D fabrics, wefts in tweed, plaid denims,

reversibles, and many more of such blends are expected.

Pepe is to inject thick fabrics with coloured coatings, reverse

printing, striped and multi-coloured yarns in their new

collections; and so would VOI with its indigo coatings, nep yarns,

and combinations such as wool blends and rigid stretches.

Another major comeback in the denim fabrics is selvedge.

Traditionally considered a weakness of die-hard denim

connoisseurs with expensive tastes; brands such as VOI and

Wrangler launched their own version for the Indian market.

Deriving from the term ‘self-edge’, selvedge denims are made on

traditional narrow width shuttle looms. It refers to the edge of

woven fabric finished so as to prevent raveling or fraying, often in

a narrow tape effect, different from the body of the fabric.

Grotto says that at GAS they always stock this niche premium

line in its collection. Keeping in mind the beauty of this vintage

technique, VOI Jeans has an ongoing series called the ‘Neverage

Selvedge’, which makes use of authentic selvedge fabrics from

Japan. “We are trying to educate the a la mode denim customer

about the fine points of selvedge and the reasons of it being

expensive,” informs Pramod.

So besides, selvedge, what else will be flying off the shelves,

light weight or thick denims? Tommy Hilfiger predicts that light

to medium weight denims are going to make the grade. But again,

this is something that strongly depends on the season and the

markets. With two seasons predominant in India across many

regions, this might vary. Another perspective shared by Shah is,

“Since there is much more experimentation in silhouettes these days,

and comfort is of prime importance to the consumer, lightweight

denims are and would continue to be sought after.”

“Thanks to research, improvement in technologies and innovative

materials used by the best fabric producers, what is certain is that

denim is becoming more and more comfortable and stretchy without

renouncing its authenticity,” shares Grotto. Since stretch denims and

jeggings are some of the top items in demand, Invista, the makers of

LYCRA®, have come up with a new innovation TOUGH MAX™ LYCRA®

fabric for denims.

Says Avinash Chandra, Marketing Head, South Asia, Invista, “While

analysing the market, Invista noted that rugged jeans could last a

long time but they were made from heavy fabric and felt stiff. And

while 100 per cent cotton jeans were comfortable, they did not always

stand up to the demands of an active lifestyle. This fabric fulfills all

the requirements of style, performance fibres and fabric. Made from a

blend of cotton and high performance LYCRA® T400® fibre, it has up

to twice the strength and abrasion resistance of 100 per cent cotton

and offer enhanced comfort through freedom of movement.”

Colour spectrumJust Cavalli Resort 2013 collection showcased electric fluorescent

green combined with grey in one single denim piece. In India, brands

are playing safe with deep shades of red, green and blue, but

internationally, fluorescent tints in denim have been splashing the

runways and streets. Two-toned colour schemes, acid shades, and

pastels will be all the rage.

At Lemax, the look will lean towards a solid and neon palette. “The

current trend would see brighter shades as overdyes.”

LEFT: GAS JEANS, TOP AND RIGHT:

DENIMS FROM 7 FOR ALL MANKIND


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As for GAS, both are very important, even in an unconventional

contamination of the two. Its SUMATRA jegging comes in pastel

shades, both solid and printed, and in a Reverse two-tone version

with contrasting colours, where the inside is in neon shades.

Grotto says, “A brighter colour inside and grey outside as a result of

intense washes creates a chiaroscuro effect with unusual nuances

that sway from acid green to teal, mauve and wisteria blue.”

At Pepe, jeans in safe, pastel colours will be available.

Consumer classificationHere we go back to the questions we raised in the beginning to

understand which category of consumers prefer what kind of

denim. According to many denim brands, consumers up north

prefer thicker and more rugged denims due to colder weather

conditions whereas regions like Mumbai prefer softer and

lightweight denims.

“Different regions in India prefer different styles depending

upon the climate and their exposure to media or fashion. What a

teenager would wear in a small town would be much louder - be it

in style, wash or branding - as compared to what one would see in

Mumbai or maybe Delhi. Again, the younger consumer has a more

experimental mentality and they would like to use the denims

much more roughly as compared to an older consumer. For the

latter, it is more about comfort, class, and luxury. There are those

who wouldn’t mind paying more for red selvedge made out of the

finest raw denim,” explains Shah.

Grotto seconds Shah and adds, “There are two reasons for why

younger consumers tend to wear more experimental looks whereas

the older consumer prefers cleaner ones. The first difference

is college trends, and spare time versus professional life. The

second one has to do with personality − younger people are still

forming it and they are not self-conscious. They feel the need to be

‘rebellious’ even in the garments they wear. That it should bring out

a message about what they want to be, more than who they are;

and that’s why they usually look for more extreme looking items.”

Not only can the regional denim retailers take a cue from the

denim trends introduced by the forecasters and major players

in the market; but India’s young denim consumers can also look

forward to having a great fashion year ahead, with the denim

brands going all out to offer a melange of trends.

Denim fads • Double denim - denim shirts, cover ups, and accessories

over jeans or jean skirts.

• Jeans made of mixed fabrics.

• Coloured denims - as have been never seen before, fluores-

cent, acid, tonal and textured shades.

• Cropped jeans - mid-calf, below the knee or just above the

ankle.

• Ripped denim - ripped trousers, shirts, jackets and shorts.

• Light weight denims.

• Custom-made denims.

• Embroidery, striped, printed, tye-n-dyed denims.

ssssssssswwwwwwwww42 sportswear international india I ending january 2013 I focus I feature

TOMMY HILFIGER ABOVE: GAS JEANS


feature denim end jan'13

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