fb/ek holden three-speed crashbox enthusiasts guide

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FB/EK HOLDEN

THREE-SPEED CRASHBOX

ENTHUSIASTS GUIDE

REVISION DATE UPDATE

0 April 2012 Initial draft for review.

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Table of Contents 1 Background ........................................................................................................................................................... 4 2 Identification .......................................................................................................................................................... 7

2.1 Basic identification ........................................................................................................................................ 7

2.2 Identification numbers ................................................................................................................................... 9

2.3 Casting Dates ................................................................................................................................................ 9

2.4 Identification Process .................................................................................................................................. 10

3 Construction ........................................................................................................................................................ 12

3.1 Housings ..................................................................................................................................................... 12

3.2 Shafts, Bushings and Bearings ................................................................................................................... 15

3.3 Gears .......................................................................................................................................................... 17

3.4 Selector Forks ............................................................................................................................................. 18

3.5 Speedometer ............................................................................................................................................... 20

3.6 Lubrication ................................................................................................................................................... 21

3.7 Weight ......................................................................................................................................................... 23

4 Operation ............................................................................................................................................................. 24

4.1 Power Transmission .................................................................................................................................... 24

4.1.1 Neutral ............................................................................................................................................. 24

4.1.2 First Gear ......................................................................................................................................... 25

4.1.3 Second Gear .................................................................................................................................... 26

4.1.4 Third Gear ........................................................................................................................................ 27

4.1.5 Reverse Gear ................................................................................................................................... 28

4.2 Selector Forks ............................................................................................................................................. 29

4.3 Synchro-mesh ............................................................................................................................................. 31

4.4 EK Holden Owners Manual Guidance ......................................................................................................... 35

5 Maintenance ........................................................................................................................................................ 36

5.1 EK Holden Owner Manual Guidance .......................................................................................................... 36

5.2 Alternative Lubricants .................................................................................................................................. 37

6 Assembly Diagrams ............................................................................................................................................. 38

6.1 FX Holden ................................................................................................................................................... 39

6.2 FJ Holden .................................................................................................................................................... 41

6.3 FE/FC Holden ............................................................................................................................................. 43

6.4 FB Holden ................................................................................................................................................... 45

6.5 EK Holden ................................................................................................................................................... 47

6.6 EJ Holden .................................................................................................................................................... 49

6.7 EH Holden ................................................................................................................................................... 51

6.8 HD Holden ................................................................................................................................................... 52

6.9 HR Holden ................................................................................................................................................... 54

7 Disassembly and Overhaul Process .................................................................................................................... 56

7.1 Kit Contents and Pre-disassembly .............................................................................................................. 56

7.1.1 NASCO kit........................................................................................................................................ 57

7.1.2 CBC Bearings kit .............................................................................................................................. 59

7.1.3 Rare Spares kit ................................................................................................................................ 61

7.1.4 Status Engineering ........................................................................................................................... 62

7.1.5 Kit Comparison ................................................................................................................................ 63

7.2 Special Tools ............................................................................................................................................... 63

7.3 Removing the Gearbox from the Vehicle..................................................................................................... 66

7.4 Disassembly ................................................................................................................................................ 67

7.5 Cleaning and Inspection .............................................................................................................................. 76

7.6 Reassembly and Reinstallation ................................................................................................................... 78

7.7 Replacement Parts ...................................................................................................................................... 89

7.8 Selector Rod Adjustment............................................................................................................................. 90

7.9 Control Rod Adjustment .............................................................................................................................. 92

7.10 Control and Selector Rod Dimensions ........................................................................................................ 93

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8 Troubleshooting ................................................................................................................................................... 95

9 Floor Mounted Shifters ...................................................................................................................................... 102

9.1 Background ............................................................................................................................................... 102

9.2 Adjusting (Tuning) a Floor Shifter .............................................................................................................. 105

9.3 Grey Motor Crashbox H-Pattern Shifters – The Wobbly Sticks ................................................................. 107

9.3.1 Speco-Thomas Speedshift ............................................................................................................. 107

9.3.2 Dor ................................................................................................................................................. 114

9.3.3 Cee-Gee Shifter ............................................................................................................................. 115

9.3.4 Unknown Wobbly Sticks ................................................................................................................ 116

9.3.5 Operation ....................................................................................................................................... 118

9.3.6 Building Your Own Wobbly Stick .................................................................................................... 118

9.3.7 Installation ...................................................................................................................................... 124

9.4 Impala Shifter ............................................................................................................................................ 129

9.4.1 Background .................................................................................................................................... 129

9.4.2 Grey Motor (FX-EK Holden) 3-speed crashbox (model 702) ......................................................... 132

9.4.3 Red Motor (EJ-HK Holden) 3-speed crashbox (model 701) ........................................................... 137

9.4.4 HK-HZ+LC-LX Torana Aussie 3-speed all-syncro gearbox H-pattern (model 712) ........................ 144

9.4.5 HK-HZ+LC-LX Torana Aussie 3-speed all-syncro gearbox inline-pattern (model 708) .................. 147

9.4.6 Aussie 4-speed (model 713) .......................................................................................................... 150

9.4.7 Ford Toploader 3-speed all synchro gearbox................................................................................. 154

9.4.8 Ford Zephyr Mark III 4-speed ......................................................................................................... 155

9.4.9 Ford Zephyr 3-speed (model 601) ................................................................................................. 156

9.4.10 Ford 1952-1957 Customline (model 600) ...................................................................................... 157

9.4.11 Ford Falcon XK-XP (model 602) .................................................................................................... 161

9.4.12 Ford Customline “Star” (model 603) ............................................................................................... 163

9.4.13 Valiant AP5 AP6 VC (and perhaps VF VG) inline-pattern (model 501) .......................................... 164

9.4.14 Simca Oronde (model 502) ............................................................................................................ 168

9.5 Eddie Thomas H-Pattern Shifters .............................................................................................................. 170

9.5.1 Aussie 3-speed (Model ML113) ..................................................................................................... 171

9.5.2 Borg Warner 3-speed Valiant AP5, AP6 (Model ML109) ............................................................... 175

9.5.3 XR Ford Falcon (Model ML114) ..................................................................................................... 176

9.6 Speco-Thomas Centreshift and Mr Shifter ................................................................................................ 179

9.6.1 CentreShift and Mr Shifter Models ................................................................................................. 179

9.6.2 Shifter Identification ....................................................................................................................... 190

9.6.3 Reverse Light Switches ................................................................................................................. 191

9.6.4 Shifter Spare Parts ......................................................................................................................... 192

9.6.5 Speco Gear Knobs ......................................................................................................................... 195

9.6.6 Fitting Instructions - Mr Shifter Aussie 4-speed shifter (Part number 604500) ............................... 196

9.6.7 Fitting Instructions - EH Holden all synchro gearbox, HD-HR Holden all synchro gearbox, HK-HG all

synchro gearbox, HQ-HZ Holden, HQ-HZ racing model, Holden Torana LC-UC and Holden 1-

tonner (Part numbers 601461, 601472, 601473, 601474, 601474R, 601476 and 601487) ........... 197

9.6.8 Fitting Instructions - Mr Shifter Muncie 4-speed (Part numbers 604200 and 604250) ................... 201

9.6.9 Fitting Instructions - Mr Shifter Saginaw 4-speed (Part number 604100) ....................................... 202

9.6.10 Fitting Instructions - Mr Shifter Ford Toploader (Part numbers 604300, 604325 and 604350) ...... 203

9.6.11 Fitting Instructions – CentreShift Falcon and Cortina 3-speed (Part numbers 601481 and 601460)

....................................................................................................................................................... 204

9.7 Ralph Horton Shifter .................................................................................................................................. 205

9.8 Hardrowl Shifters ....................................................................................................................................... 208

10 Holden Part Numbers ........................................................................................................................................ 209

11 Contacts ............................................................................................................................................................ 215

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1 Background

This document aims to provide some information regarding three-speed manual gearboxes (crashboxes)

suitable for FB and EK Holdens. It contains:

historical information, such as which gearboxes and fittings were fitted to different model Holdens,

practical information on identification, disassembly and reassembly of early Holden gearboxes,

guidance on adjustment, maintenance, replacement parts and overhaul techniques, and

information on accessory floor shifters.

It contains answers to many of the questions that seem to come up routinely on most of the early Holden

forums:

“What overhaul parts are available for my early Holden crashbox, and where do I get them from?”

“Why is my crashbox jumping out of gear?”

“What oil should I run in my crashbox?”

Whilst the document does not cover the gearshift linkages and column shifter assembly, the adjustment

of the linkages is covered.

Holden three-speed manual transmissions were of three main types:

a) The grey motor crashbox,

used from FX through EK

Holdens (the subject of this

document – see upper image

to the right). The grey motor

crashbox has a bottom

transmission cover (sump)

and integral

casing/bellhousing. The

gearbox had synchromesh on

second and third gears only,

b) The red motor crashbox, used

from EJ through HK Holdens

(see lower image to the right).

Like it’s predecessor, the red

motor crashbox still had

synchromesh on second and

third gears only, with the

internal gear and shaft layout and operation very similar to the grey motor crashbox. However, the

gear selector process was changed significantly, as was the construction – red motor crashboxes

have a side transmission cover and separate casing/bellhousings, and

c) The Aussie three-speed, used

from HK through WB Holdens as

well as LC-LX Toranas. The

external construction of the Aussie

three-speed gearbox is similar to

the red motor crashbox, having a

side transmission cover and

separate casing/bellhousing.

However, the Aussie three-speed was fitted with synchromesh on first, second and third gears (often

referred to as an all-synchro box), and the gear selector process was changed again.

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The gearboxes that are the subject of this document are three speed manual transmissions as fitted to FX-EK Holden grey motors. Some minor changes were made to the design of the gearbox over these vehicle models, and will be pointed out in the text below. Having said this, most of the gearbox parts for these models are readily interchangeable. I have not included the EJ Holden grey motor crashbox, or later red motor crashboxes in this document as whilst the operation of the gearboxes is near identical to the FX-EK Holden crashbox, the design and parts interchangeability is very different. I will however include some assembly drawings and other information on these latter gearboxes in order to help illustrate some of the differences.

Whilst this document is primarily related to the FB and EK Holden gearboxes, much of the information is

similar or identical to other early Holdens. This document also contains a significant amount of

information related to floor shifters. My original intention was to cover only those floor shifters which fit the

grey motor crashbox. However, as always, the more I dug into aftermarket floor shifters the more

interesting things got... and I got a little carried away. Section 9 now contains some interesting historical

information, and has information relating to floor shifters of the “three-on-the tree” era (FX-WB Holdens)

rather than just being limited to grey motors.

Please bear in mind that the early Holden gearboxes are more than half a century old, and that limited

documentation is known to exist other than references in parts and workshop manuals (despite much

hunting by enthusiasts, and FX/FJ, FE/FC and FB/EK Clubs). Much of the information below is drawn

from internet forums, discussion with enthusiasts and common sense. I have used photos and other

information from a wide variety of sources, particularly from the forums – if anyone is offended by my use

of the material, feels I have breached copyright or needs recognition, please let me know and I will correct

the issue immediately.

I would however like to thank the following for their patience and willingness to help me learn:

Keith Hoffmann for fantastic access to some of the Workshop Manuals, Accelerator Magazines and

accessory information (and for reading through all the Service Bulletins up to 1965 in search of

crashbox info).

Ken Mclean for some very cool information on floor shifters,

Garth Campbell for some excellent background information on Impala Performance Products,

Rossco for access to Workshop manual scans,

Jeff, Craig, Dave and Matto for access to early crashbox, red crashbox and Aussie 3-speed boxes,

The teams from each of Rare Spares, Speco Thomas and Status Engineering for taking the time to

help with information,

and a bunch of other forum members for answering questions and climbing under cars to check

numbers along the way.

Equally, I have made opinions and drawn conclusions on some of the information I have found and

equipment I have owned, and have cross-referenced a significant amount of printed material - if anyone

believes that I have made an error (or knows a better way to do something), please let me know and I will

update the document... after all, the main purpose here is to help other early Holden enthusiasts. I have

marked some text in red in this document where I am missing information – any help in closing these

gaps is appreciated.

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I have also drawn information by cross-referencing the following sources:

The Holden Workshop Manual (48/215 Manual)

The Holden FJ Workshop Manual

The Holden FE and FC Workshop Manual.

The Holden EK Workshop Manual.

The Holden ‘FB’ Workshop Manual.

The Holden ‘EJ’ ‘EH’ Workshop Manual.

The Holden HD Workshop Manual.

The Holden HR Workshop Manual.

Like all things automotive, installing, operating and maintaining a gearbox comes with a risk. Leaking

transmission fluid can lead to dry boxes and damage, and misinstalled clutches can lead to loss of

operation whilst at speed (amongst other hazards). Any advice contained in this document is to be taken

at the reader’s risk – qualified mechanics should be consulted where appropriate.

Note that this document contains a number of templates. To squeeze them onto an A4 page, many are

no longer at the “correct size” to just print and use. For each drawing, I have included a scale. To get the

right size, print the document out then enlarge/reduce on a photocopier until the scale is the correct

dimensions.

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2 Identification

Grey motor crashboxes served from the original FX Holden all the way through to the EK Holden. Some

minor changes were made to the design of the gearbox over these vehicle models, and will be detailed in

Section 3 below. The purpose of this Section is to give a method of determining approximately which

model Holden a given gearbox was fitted to, and a way of working out just which gearbox your vehicle

has. Pictured below (from left to right) are a grey motor crashbox, a red motor crashbox, an Aussie 3-

speed (without bellhousing) and a hydramatic.

2.1 Basic identification

When first buying an early Holden, it can often be a surprise finding out what bits have been retrofitted

over the years - engines (often red motors swapped over for grey motors), suspension (the HR Holden

ball-joint front end swapped over for the original kingpin front end), and sometimes gearboxes. If the

vehicle is a manual, there is a pretty fair chance you have the original three speed crashbox… but

sometimes there are surprises. The diagram below shows some ways of identifying various gearboxes

either by their dimensions or the pan shape.

Note that all Holden inline six-cylinder engines (grey, red, blue

and black) have the same bolt pattern on the rear of the block,

and corresponding identical transmission bellhousing bolt

pattern. There are however differences in bolt pattern between

the bellhousing and gearbox casing (noting though that the

grey motor crashbox has the bellhousing and casing cast as

one piece).

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2.2 Identification numbers

The gearbox

identification number is

stamped on the

passenger’s side rear

quarter of the casing (see

the red arrow in the

image to the right). To

my knowledge, no-one

has a register of grey

motor crashbox numbers

(unlike the excellent registers that exist for engine numbers), so the following is my best guess at the link

between vehicle and gearbox identification number – it is conjecture at best. I have drawn the table below

using the pictures shown in the factory workshop manuals.

Model FX FJ FE FC FB EK EJ

First engine number 1001

121694

L283373

L439507 B1001

B181400

J1001 Engine number shown in workshop manual

1000 L306471 B175814

Gearbox number shown in workshop manual

041 120694 L296076 L441345 B1001 B183235 J1001

My theory:

a) The gearbox identification number is not necessarily the same as engine number.

b) Gearbox numbers are probably in the same format as engine numbers (for example FE and FC

Holdens have “L” prefix engines and gearboxes). There is likely to be some overlap between models

(e.g. when the FB Holden was introduced, there may still have been some “L” gearbox cases leftover

from the FC Holden run that were used).

c) The numbers above can be used to infer (very) approximate vehicle/gearbox number matches (for

example an FB Holden gearbox probably has a number between B1001 and B183235). Note

however that this is very approximate, and there is likely to be a lot of overlap – for example I have

found a gearbox which should be from an FB Holden using the process above (B154496) which had

EK Holden type first and reverse/second and third shifter lever cams.

2.3 Casting Dates

Adjacent to the cast part number (on the main gearbox

body aft of the bellhousing) is a casting clock and

further cast number (see green arrow in the image

above). The cast number consists of a letter followed

by several (typically three, sometimes two with a

space) digits. For example J259, D308, D218, F258,

G288, M210, J6 1, G 249, E3 2, L257, G135, D 66,

E287, K238, D218, A806, C 6 9 and M1 8. The cast

number in the image to the right is G248.

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The letters represent casting month, with the letter “I” not used i.e.:

A = January

B = February

C = March

D = April

E = May

F = June

G = July

H = August

J = September

K = October

L = November

M = December

The first two digits (or first digit and space) indicate casting day, whilst the last digit indicates the year (for

example D308 being the 30th of April in a year ending in 8… it was on a FX/FJ casing, so probably 1948).

2.4 Identification Process

The following gives an approximate process for determining approximately which model Holden a given

gearbox was fitted to:

a) Read the gearbox identification number is stamped on the passenger’s side rear quarter of the

casing, and use the table below to determine approximately what vehicle range applies i.e.:

Model FX FJ FE FC FB EK EJ

Gearbox

identification number

041-120694

120694 onwards

L296076-L441345

L441345 onwards

B1001- B183235

B183235 onwards

J1001 onwards

b) Read the cast date number (on the main gearbox body aft of the bellhousing), and translate the last

digit (the year code) into a year and month using the A-M guide above. This will give you the last

number of the year (for example “8”, which could be 1948 or 1958).

c) Using the approximate model from step a) above, cross check the year using the approximate guide

below:

FX Holden: November 1948 – October 1953,

FJ Holden: October 1953 – July 1956,

FE Holden: July 1956 – May 1958,

FC Holden: May 1958 – January 1960,

FB Holden: January 1960 - May 1961, and

EK Holden: May 1961- July 1962 (note that EK panel vans and utilities did not get replaced by the

EJ Holden until January 1963).

As examples:

A gearbox with an identification number stamp of 165991 and cast date number of B141. Step a)

indicates the gearbox is probably from an FJ Holden. Step b) indicates the gearbox was cast on

February 14th in a year ending with 1. Step c) indicates this is probably 1951, and the gearbox is

probably from an FJ Holden.

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A gearbox with an identification number stamp of L455594 and cast date number of D218. Step a)

indicates the gearbox is probably from an FC Holden. Step b) indicates the gearbox was cast on April

21st in a year ending with 8. Step c) indicates this is probably 1958, and the gearbox could be either

late FE or early FC.

A gearbox with an identification number stamp of B154496 and cast date number of M210. Step a)

indicates the gearbox is probably from an FB Holden. Step b) indicates the gearbox was cast on

December 21st in a year ending with 0. Step c) indicates this is probably 1960, and the gearbox is

probably from an FB Holden.

A gearbox with an identification number stamp of B214594 and cast date number of J 51. Step a)

indicates the gearbox is probably from an EK Holden. Step b) indicates the gearbox was cast on

September 5th in a year ending with 1. Step c) indicates this is probably 1961, and the gearbox is

probably from an EK Holden.

As an aside, some of the early

gearboxes have some interesting

stampings. One FX/FJ Holden gearbox

casting I have has a cast date number

of D308, indicating an April 30th 1948

casting. This casting has five separate

identification numbers stamped into it,

some of which are overstamped, and all

preceded by the letters “GB”

(presumably for “Gear Box”):

GB1294,

GB1549,

GB1734, and

GB1818 (stamped twice).

A further gearbox owned by an FX/FJ Holden forum member is stamped U303308 – a number aligned to

the engine numbers of the period.

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3 Construction

The following text describes the construction of the grey motor crashbox. It may be assumed that all

crashbox parts from FX Holden through to EK Holden are identical unless noted otherwise below.

Equally, gearbox parts shared with later model Holdens will also be noted. I will not highlight the

differences in gearshift assemblies (the linkages that connect the gearbox to the steering column) as they

vary significantly from model to model.

The grey motor transmission (crashbox) is a three-speed all helical geared unit, with synchromesh on

second and third gears only (no synchromesh on first gear). The overhaul kit for the crashbox (part

number 7430864) was changed at the FB model (to part number 7430373) to accommodate the double-

row bearings introduced with the FB models. When fitting the later 7430373 overhaul kit to 48, 50, FJ, FE

or FC Holden models, it is necessary to ensure that the mainshaft (part number 7400127) is machined to

accommodate the double row bearing lock ring (more information on this change is presented below).

3.1 Housings

The clutch housing (or bell housing) and transmission case are cast

as one unit, and a separate extension housing is bolted to the rear of

the case to accommodate the extended main shaft. The bottom of the

casing is fitted with a pressed steel inspection cover which acts as a

sump and has a drain plug. The drain plug (and hence hole in the

inspection cover) was originally ¾"-16 (1” AF), but was changed

during the FC Holden model (at engine number L584117) to ½"-20

(¾” AF) – see image to the right. Whilst the inspection covers are

interchangeable, the plug size (and copper/asbestos gasket used for

each type of drain plug) must match the cover.

Note that the Master Parts Catalogue (20 Years of Holden Production) lists the following part numbers for

right-hand drive gearbox assemblies:

a) 48/50/FJ up to engine 283372 = 7400124.

b) FJ from engine U283384, FE, FC, FB, EK right hand drive = 740997

However, this number probably refers to a complete gearbox. It is evident that the part numbers (not

assembly numbers) are cast into the actual casings, and are one number higher than this i.e.:

a) FX Holdens and FJ Holdens up to engine 283372 have 7400125 cast into the casing, and

b) FJ Holdens from engine U283384, FE Holdens, FC Holdens, FB Holdens and EK Holdens right hand

drive have 7409980 cast into them.

Note that some early gearboxes do not have any part number cast into them.

Both the FX/FJ Holden and FJ/EK Holden casings are similar in construction, being sand-cast cast iron

poured from multiple piece moulds. The mould lines on both types of casing, and indeed the casing

dimensions appear identical, and it is likely the same moulds were used for both. Minor differences are

notable between individual casings (for example in the front flange web at the 7/8 o’clock position)

resultant from different moulding handling or different moulds being used. These differences are not

consistent across individual models (i.e. are not evident of a systematic change being made). One casting

change that is evident is that some early FX/FJ Holden castings have an external rib running from the

front corners of the sump up to the 3/6 o’clock positions on the bellhousing flange (see photographs

below). The “ribs” are shown in the FX Holden and FJ Holden Workshop manuals (though not in the later

model manuals), as well as in the Masterparts 20 Years Catalogue. Note that the change to delete the

ribs in later casings is not clear – for example ribs are evident in casings from January 1948, September

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1952 and October 1954, but are not evident in a casing cast in April 1948. It appears that the rib went

right through up to engine number 283372 and with the introduction of the ''U'' prefix engines (U283384),

which was when the later gearbox (casings cast with 7409980) was introduced into the last of the FJ

utilities and panel vans. All up the rib was deleted with the last of the FJ Holdens and the introduction of

the FE Holden, possibly because the “new” clutch slave cylinder on the FE Holden fouling.

Many of the Army utes purchased by enthusiasts

have had the ribbed gearboxes installed. It is

probable that the external ribs were cast in some

early gearboxes, and then the moulds changed

to omit the ribs. Army production vehicles were

probably fitted with the external ribs as part of

the Army purchase orders, though the RPO does

not mention them (see photo to the right). As

with many Holden parts, ribbed gearboxes were

probably swapped over or reconditioned over the

last fifty years, and now appear in some vehicles

where they were not originally factory fitted.

Casings have a single number (e.g. “7”) cast into them on either side of the gearbox adjacent to the fill

plug. The numbers are identical either side of the casing but are not sequential in different gearboxes (i.e.

would not seem to denote a systematic linear change). The earliest castings had no manufacturer identity

cast into them at all, then through late 1949 a very small GMH circular logo was impressed within the

casting which was followed in the latter part of 1953 with a substantially raised, larger GMH logo. By late

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1954 the name HOLDEN started to appear on the castings and this identifier remained through

production. Malleable Castings were a provider of castings to GMH at a sub contractor level ...these can

be identified by the letters MC followed by the part number and appear on a lot of steering and

suspension castings and differential carriers as production ramped up.

Two changes in casing machining are evident:

a) The FJ/EK Holden casings (or at least those made from the FE Holden onwards) have a flat surface

machined across the driver’s side of the bellhousing flange to accommodate the hydraulic clutch

slave cylinder introduced during the FE Holden model – see image below on the left. The FX/FJ

Holden casings are not machined in this area – see image below on the right.

b) Early casings (both FX/FJ Holden and FJ/EK Holden) have six

holes tapped into the lower half of the bellhousing flange to

allow the clutch/flywheel dust cover to be bolted to the

bellhousing. Later casings (apparently around the FC Holden

model) only have four holes tapped, deleting the two holes at

the 4 and 8 o’clock positions – see green painted arrows in the

picture to the right. The small flange boss inside the bellhousing

for these two holes is also absent (a minor casting change).

Looking at original vehicles shows that the change appears to

have been made in the FE Holden model (i.e. FX-FJ Holdens

normally have six holes in the bellhousing and six bolts in the dustcover, whilst FE-EK Holdens have

four holes in the bellhousing and four bolts in the dustcover. The part number for the FX-FJ Holden

dust cover was 7401301, whilst the later four hole plate was part number 7414741.

In short, all FX-EK Holden casings are interchangeable, though if an FX/FJ Holden casing is used in an

FE-EK Holden, a flat surface must be machined across the driver’s side of the bellhousing flange to

accommodate the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder and two of the dust cover bolts left out.

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Three types of extension housing were manufactured for grey motor crashboxes. The first type, fitted to

FX and some FJ Holdens is made from mild steel flanges and tubes which are welded together. The steel

construction was replaced during the FJ production run an all cast alloy extension housing, which was

used for all later models. The cast housing had two versions, one with short strengthening ribs, and one

with longer strengthening ribs (see image below).

The Master Parts Catalogue (20 Years of Holden

Production) lists the part number for extension

housings assemblies for FX-EK Holden as 7408347.

This assembly is the housing and bushings made up

with the alloy casting. The alloy extension housings

have either 7408348 cast into them (again one

number higher than the parts list as this is a casting,

not an assembly), or just plain “HOLDEN” and no part number. The dimensions (overall length, bushing

length and diameter, bolt location, locating flange lip diameter) are identical, through the mild steel unit is 3/16” longer due to the use of an extra shroud at the rear of the extension (looks much bigger in the

photograph above). A lip seal is press fitted into the rear of the extension and seals up against the main

drive shaft as it exits the gearbox. The two units, including the seals, are fully interchangeable.

Note that the dowels used to mount the crashbox to the grey motor (part number 7401304 for normal size

and 7406004 for oversized) were continued to be used on the EJ and EH manual transmissions.

3.2 Shafts, Bushings and Bearings

The clutch gear shaft (or input shaft) is supported at the spigot (engine)

end by a sintered bronze bushing in most grey motor transmissions (FX

Holdens had roller bearings, which were changed to bushes midway

through the FJ Holden model). The bushing is retained by an interference

fit in the end of the crankshaft. The gearbox end of the clutch gear shaft is

supported by a single-race ball bearing. A retainer bolts to the front of the

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transmission case and retains the ball bearing and shaft in the transmission case. The retainer also

provides a mounting for the clutch release bearing. The retainer assembly was originally secured by three 5/16”-18 x ¾" bolts, though these bolts were in increased in length to

7/8" midway through the FJ Holden

production run (an additional two threads… about 18% more fastener resistance to pulling out of the

casing) – see image to the right above.

The front end of the main drive shaft (or output shaft) runs on needle

rollers in the hollow end of the clutch gear shaft. The middle of the

main drive shaft is supported by a single-row ball bearing (GMH part

number N954412). The ball bearing is held into the casing with a

snap ring (the main bearing lock ring). The mainshaft is located in

position by a steel thrust washer on one side and a main shaft lock

ring on the other side of the ball bearing. This ball bearing was

changed on FB and EK Holdens to double-row ball bearings,

part number 7406231 (see image to the right above which

shows a disassembled double row bearing). The single row

bearing is 15mm thick, whilst the double row bearing is 20.5mm

thick. To accommodate the change in thickness, a second lock

ring groove was machined into FB and EK Holden main drive

shafts 5.5mm further along the shaft. The original groove gets

covered by the thicker bearing, whilst the new second groove

allows the main shaft lock ring to be refitted. In the image to the

right, the upper shaft is a FX-FC Holden main drive shaft, made

for a single row ball bearing. The area the ball bearing runs on

covered with a green circle, whilst the single lock ring groove is shown by the red arrow. The lower image

shows an FB-EK Holden main drive shaft, made for the double row bearing. The two lock ring grooves

are shown by red arrows.

If the double-row bearings are fitted to an FX-FC Holden main drive shaft, the lock ring groove is

obscured. There are two ways to overcome this:

a) Machine a second groove in the main drive shaft, just like an FB-EK Holden one, or

b) Fit a spacer between the ball bearing and the speedo drive gear, and use

the (existent) speedo lock ring to hold the assembly in place. The

spacers were a fairly common solution (I’ve found quite a few whilst

pulling crashboxes apart). The dimensions of the spacers are 1¼” OD,

0.996”ID and 1.374” long – see image to the right. The two images below

show the lineup – the image to the left shows how a standard bearing is

located, whilst that to the right shows the thicker bearing and spacer. Red

lines show rings or balls that lock into the shaft, whilst green shows where the bearing, spacer and

speedo gear ride on the shaft.

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Note that the modern replacement ball bearings supplied in overhaul kits are all similar to the old single

row bearing (15mm depth). This means that the single row bearings in the kits can be used with either

FX-FC Holden or FB-EK Holden main drive shafts. If the main drive shaft is an FX-FC Holden unit which

has previously had a double-row bearing fitted with a spacer, the spacer is left out and a new main shaft

lock ring fitted. The only time you would now ever need to use the spacer shown above is if you were

fitting a NOS double-row bearing onto an FX-FC Holden main drive shaft In this way, all grey motor

crashbox main drive shafts are now fully interchangeable.

The rear end of the main drive shaft is splined, and engages into the splines of the front universal joint

yoke. Fore and aft movement of the propeller shaft is accommodated on this spline. Pressed into the rear

of the extension housing is a porous sintered bronze bushing (or an optional steel backed bronze

(unsintered) bushing for FB and EK Holdens) and an oil seal. The bushing supports the front universal

joint yoke, and hence the rear end of the main drive shaft.

The transmission counter shaft gear (layshaft) runs on needle rollers, whilst the reverse idler gear is fitted

with bronze bushes. Both shafts are fitted with bronze, steel-backed thrust washers (the four thrust

washers in each crashbox are identical).

3.3 Gears

With the exception of the speedometer drive gear, the gear ratios for all FX-EK Holdens were constant

(i.e. there were not specially made GMH gear ratios for commercial vehicles or other models). The gear

teeth counts are illustrated in the table below:

Gear Teeth

Clutch gear 17

Main shaft second speed gear 23

First and reverse sliding gear 33

Counter gear (part that engages main shaft second speed gear) 17

Counter gear (part that engages both first and reverse sliding gear and reverse idler gear)

13

Counter gear (part that engages clutch gear) 20

Reverse Idler Gear (both ends are the same) 18

Speedometer drive gear 6

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Speedometer driven gear fitting assembly (FX/FJ Holden) 22

Speedometer driven gear fitting assembly (FE/EK Holden) 23

This gives the following gear ratios:

First: 660:221 (2.986425:1)

Second: 460:289 (1.591696:1)

Third: 1:1

Reverse 660:221 (2.986425:1)

3.4 Selector Forks

The role of the selector forks is to move the gears inside the

gearbox during gearshifts. Two separate yokes (the first and

reverse shifter yoke and the second and third shifter yoke) move

the first-reverse sliding gear and second and third-speed clutch

respectively by pushing on them. The yokes are connected to

shifter shafts which are in turn driven by cams (the first and reverse

shifter lever and the second and third shifter lever) on the selector

shaft. The selector shaft is driven in turn by both the shifter lever

and the selector shaft control lever. Lock balls and springs are

assembled in the top of the case and retained in place by two cap

screws. The balls engage detent grooves in the shifter shafts to

lock the shaft in the required position for the engagement of the

various gears.

Note that both the first and reverse shifter lever (cam) and the

second and third shifter lever (cam) changed during the EK

Holden model. FX-FB Holdens have screws which lock the

levers onto the selector shaft – see lower image to the right. The

EK Holden however does not have the screws, instead utilizing

splines on the selector shaft to lock the levers to the shaft – see

upper image to the right. The two types of selector shaft

assemblies are fully interchangeable.

The grey motor crashbox is fitted with two external levers - a shifter lever, and a selector shaft control

lever. A number of changes were made in the levers over the life of the crashbox:

a) The shifter lever hole used to connect to the gear shift linkage changed from 5/16” diameter (FX and

FJ Holden) to 3/8” diameter (FE and FC Holden). The hole was then changed to ¾” in the FB Holden

run (from engine number B169037) due to the need to eliminate metallic rattling on rough roads –

see Service Bulletin below. An insulator was installed into the larger hole. The large-hole lever and

insulator continued to be used on the EK Holden (the lever is part number 7419060, with the

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insulator being part number 7419061).

b) The selector shaft control lever changed in length (became longer) at the FE Holden model (FX-FJ

Holdens use part number 7400177, whilst FE-EK Holdens use 7409290 for right hand drive).

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The image below shows (from left to right) a FX-FJ Holden selector shaft control lever, a FE-EK Holden

selector shaft control lever, a FX-FJ Holden shifter lever, a FE-FC Holden shifter lever and a FB-EK

Holden shifter lever.

3.5 Speedometer

The speedometer cable is driven from the main drive shaft via a worm drive. The drive gear (a worm

gear) is locked to the main drive shaft by a 3/16” diameter steel ball. The driven gear spins a shaft that

exits the side of the gearbox, and ends in a hollow square-drive fitting. The speedometer cable has a core

(inner) with a square cut end that slips into the square drive fitting.

The speedometer driven gear unit screws into the

casing, and was changed from a 22-tooth unit in

FX/FJ Holdens (part number 7405060) to a 23-

tooth unit for FE/EK Holdens (part number

7405945). The image to the right shows both an

FE/EK Holden unit (upper image) and an FX/FJ

Holden unit (lower image). This change means

that the speedometer cable speed for FE/EK

Holdens is some 4.3% slower than the FX/FJ

Holden cable.

This may be handy for those who have changed tyre profile, and have found their speedo is out:

a) Changing from a FX/FJ Holden driven gear unit to an FE/EK Holden unit will reduce the speedometer

reading by 4.3%, whilst

b) Changing from a FE/EK Holden driven gear unit to an FX/FJ Holden unit will increase the

speedometer reading by 4.3%.

Granted not much of a change, but I guess every little bit helps.

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It is tempting to try the speedo gears from either a red motor

crashbox, or an Aussie 3-speed (as they have many aftermarket

speedo gear ratios available). The photo to the right shows (from left

to right) a red motor crashbox, grey motor crashbox and Aussie 3-

speed gear sitting on a red motor crashbox shaft. Sadly, the red and

grey motor gears are the same pitch (no point swapping them), and

the Aussie 3-speed gears are far too big to fit the grey motor

crashbox (the Aussie 3-speed shaft is 0.193” larger in diameter).

3.6 Lubrication

The grey motor crashbox is splash lubricated (i.e. does not have a pressurised oil system). Oil is held in

the bottom of the casing to just above the centerline of the countergear (see yellow area in the diagram

below).

An elastomer oil seal is located at the rear of the front propeller shaft housing, sealing the output shaft

of the gearbox. The input shaft of the gearbox (circled in green above) is a little more complex. Oil tends

to sneak past the ball bearing, and try to run along the shaft. However, the shaft has an Archimedes

screw cut into it (see red arrow in the image to the right). As the

shaft turns, the Archimedes screw pumps oil back along the shaft.

A slinger ring uses centrifugal force to flick the pumped oil off the

shaft. The oil is then returned to the casing via a channel in the

clutch gear retainer (see diagram below).

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In the photo above right, the slinger ring sits where the green arrow is located, whilst the bearing sits

where the blue arrow is located.

Note that the original crashbox front and rear ball bearings were of open design. This allowed oil to flow

across the bearing surfaces, providing lubrication. The bearings provided in the aftermarket kits (see

Section 7.1 below) are of the sealed type. The bearing balls are pre-packed with grease, and have metal

shields sealed in place over the bearing balls. This means that the oil flow through the bearings is

negligible. For the front bearing of the gearbox (circled in green in the image below), this is not a

problem (in fact it takes almost all the load off the Archimedes screw setup). For the rear bearing of the

gearbox (circled in red in the image below), the new bearing type means that little oil can pass from the

gearbox “sump” into the extension housing. This means that the speedometer gears (circled in blue),

and more importantly the tailshaft yoke bushing (circled in pink) can be starved of lubricant. It is critical

that when overhauling the gearbox (or after removing the extension housing) that some oil (about

170mL or 6oz) is poured directly into the extension housing through the breather cap. This oil will then

provide lubrication for the speedometer gears and tailshaft yoke bushing.

The counter gears fitted to FX-FC

Holdens are fitted with three longitudinal

grooves internally, and a drain hole in the

middle of each gear assembly (see image

to the right – the left hand counter gear

has the grooves). This allows the gear to

fill up with oil between the shaft and gear

assemblies. By filling with oil, the counter

gear needle roller bearings have oil at

either end (inside the gear and outside in

the gearbox sump) for lubrication. In later

FB/EK Holdens, the grooves were omitted

(though the drain holes remained in

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place). Note that I have dated this change from a number of gearboxes I have disassembled. The two

types of counter gear assemblies are fully interchangeable.

The reverse idler gear steel bodies equally have

longitudinal grooves and a drain hole. However, the

reverse idler gear runs on two bronze bushings. The

bushings both have a spiral groove cut into them (see

image to the right). As the reverse idler gear (and

bushings) turn, the grooves act as Archimedes screws

and pump oil across the bushing face. This provides

effective lubrication.

3.7 Weight

a used grey crashbox, without oil, clutch or flywheel, weighs approximately 27kg.

a used red crashbox weighs 21.0kg (6kg of this is the bellhousing).

a used Aussie 3 speed weighs 27.5kg (without bellhousing).

a used hydramatic weighs 47.5kg.

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4 Operation

The following text describes the operation of the grey motor crashbox.

4.1 Power Transmission

The following text describes the power transmission path for various gears selected, whilst the diagrams

show the power transmission path in red. Of note, the clutch gear shaft, countershaft gear, reverse idler

gear and main shaft second speed gear are always spinning, even in neutral – they are not coloured red

in some of the diagrams as although they are spinning, they are not transmitting power. The table

following the text shows the relative speed of the shafts, assuming that the clutch gear shaft (input shaft)

is spinning at 1,000rpm.

4.1.1 Neutral

a) Clutch gear shaft is being turned by engine. Clutch gear (part of shaft) turns. Clutch gear shaft and

main drive shaft are not coupled together.

b) Clutch gear drives countershaft gear.

c) Countershaft gear drives reverse idler gear, which freewheels.

d) Countershaft gear drives main shaft second speed gear which freewheels on the main shaft.

e) Main drive shaft is static.

Shaft Transmitting

Power? Speed (rpm)

Clutch gear shaft (input shaft) Yes 1,000

Countershaft (layshaft) Yes 850

Reverse idler gear No 614

Main drive shaft (output shaft) No

0 Speedometer cable (FX/FJ) N/A

Speedometer cable (FE/EK)

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4.1.2 First Gear

First gear couples the clutch gear shaft (input shaft) and the main drive shaft (output shaft) via the

countershaft (layshaft) gears.

a) First and reverse sliding gear slides forwards along second and third speed clutch, engaging

countershaft gear.

b) Clutch gear shaft is being turned by engine. Clutch gear (part of shaft) turns. Clutch gear shaft and


c) Clutch gear drives countershaft gear.

d) Countershaft gear drives reverse idle gear which freewheels.

e) Countershaft gear drives main shaft second speed gear which freewheels on the main shaft.

f) Countershaft gear drives first and reverse sliding gear.

g) First and reverse sliding gear drives second and third speed clutch.

h) Second and third speed clutch drives main drive shaft.

Shaft Transmitting

Power? Speed (rpm)




Main drive shaft (output shaft) Yes 335

Speedometer cable (FX/FJ) N/A

87

Speedometer cable (FE/EK) 83

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4.1.3 Second Gear

Second gear, like first gear, couples the clutch gear shaft (input shaft) and the main drive shaft (output

shaft) via the countershaft (layshaft) gears.

a) First and reverse sliding gear slides back to neutral position. Second and third speed clutch slides

backwards and engages second speed gear via synchro-mesh cone.




d) Countershaft gear drives reverse idler gear which freewheels.

e) Countershaft gear drives main shaft second speed gear which freewheels on the main shaft.

f) Main shaft second speed gear drives second and third speed clutch.

g) Second and third speed clutch drives main drive shaft.

Shaft Transmitting

Power? Speed (rpm)






164


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4.1.4 Third Gear

Third gear directly couples the clutch gear shaft (input shaft) and the main drive shaft (output shaft).

a) Second and third speed clutch slides forwards, disengaging the second speed gear and engaging the

clutch gear via synchro-mesh cone.

b) Clutch gear shaft is being turned by engine. Clutch gear (part of shaft) turns. Clutch gear shaft drives

second and third speed clutch.

c) Second and third speed clutch drives main drive shaft.

d) Clutch gear drives countershaft gear.

e) Countershaft gear drives reverse idle gear which freewheels.

f) Countershaft gear drives main shaft second speed gear which freewheels on the main shaft.

Shaft Transmitting

Power? Speed (rpm)




Main drive shaft (output shaft) Yes 1,000


261


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4.1.5 Reverse Gear

Reverse gear couples the clutch gear shaft (input shaft) to the countershaft (layshaft), the countershaft to

the reverse idler gear, and the reverse idler gear to the main drive shaft (output shaft).

a) First and reverse sliding gear slides backwards and engages the reverse idler gear.




d) Countershaft gear drives main shaft second speed gear which freewheels on the main shaft.

e) Countershaft gear drives reverse idler gear.

f) Reverse idler gear drives first and reverse sliding gear in reverse rotation.

g) First and reverse sliding gear drives second and third speed clutch in reverse rotation.

h) Second and third speed clutch drives main drive shaft in reverse rotation.

Shaft Transmitting

Power? Speed (rpm)



Reverse idler gear Yes 614



87


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4.2 Selector Forks

The gearshift process works by moving either of the first-reverse

sliding gear or the second and third-speed clutch around inside the

casing. All the other gears are fixed and in constant mesh. The

selector forks work by first choosing which one of the first-reverse

sliding gear or the second and third-speed clutch to move, and

then moving it.

The selector shaft control lever (the lower lever on the gearbox)

decides which of the first-reverse sliding gear or the second

and third-speed clutch are moved.

The shifter lever (the upper lever on the gearbox) decides

whether the first-reverse sliding gear or the second and third-

speed clutch are moved backwards or forwards.

To simplify, we will look at the action of the selector shaft control lever first (see diagram below).

When the gear lever on the steering column is pushed towards the windscreen (for second and third

gears), the red lines in the diagram are followed:

a) The selector shaft control lever moves

clockwise (towards the rear of the vehicle).

b) The selector lever shaft assembly turns

clockwise, and pushes against the selector

shaft.

c) The selector shaft moves outwards.

d) The first and reverse shifter lever (cam) moves

away from the first and reverse shifter shaft

and can no longer operate (move) it.

e) The second and second and third shifter lever

(cam) moves towards the second and third

shifter shaft and can now operate (move) it.

We can now move the second and third-speed

clutch.

When the gear lever on the steering column is

pulled away from the windscreen (for first and

reverse gears), the green lines in the diagram are

followed:

a) The selector shaft control lever moves

anticlockwise (towards the front of the vehicle).

b) The selector lever shaft assembly turns anticlockwise, and pushes against the selector shaft.

c) The selector shaft moves inwards.

d) The first and reverse shifter lever (cam) moves towards the first and reverse shifter shaft and can

now operate (move) it. We can now move the first and reverse sliding gear.

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e) The second and second and third shifter lever (cam) moves away from the second and third shifter

shaft and can no longer operate (move) it.

We will now look at the action of the shifter lever (see

diagram to the right).

When the gear lever on the steering column is pushed

towards the floor (for first and third gears), the red lines

in the diagram are followed:

a) The shifter lever moves clockwise (towards the

front of the vehicle).

b) The first and reverse shifter lever and second and

third shifter lever move clockwise (cams move

towards front of vehicle).

c) The first and reverse shifter lever or the second

and third shifter lever (whichever one has been

selected by the selector shaft control lever) pushes

the respective shifter shaft towards the front of the

vehicle.

d) The respective shifter yoke moves either the first

and reverse sliding gear or the second and third-

speed clutch forwards.

When the gear lever on the steering column is pushed towards the roof (for second and reverse gears),

the green lines in the diagram are followed:

a) The shifter lever moves anticlockwise.

b) The first and reverse shifter lever and second and third shifter lever move anticlockwise (cams move

towards rear of vehicle).

c) The first and reverse shifter lever or the second and third shifter lever (whichever one has been

selected by the selector shaft control lever) pushes the respective shifter shaft towards the rear of

the vehicle.

d) The respective shifter yoke moves either the first and reverse sliding gear or the second and third-

speed clutch backwards.

When looking at the side

of the gearbox, the lever

positions are as shown in

the image to the right.

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The shifter shafts are held in place to prevent the gearbox “jumping out

of gear”. This is done by the three detent grooves machined into each

of the shafts – see red arrows in the image to the right. The middle

grooves represents the neutral position. A 3/16” diameter steel ball sits in

the grooves (one ball for each shaft), held down into the groove by a

spring. When the shafts are moved backwards or forwards (to change a

gear), the balls ride up from one groove, and then slip down into the

next groove. The friction caused by the spring rubbing the ball on the

lumps between grooves is what stops the shafts moving on their own

(and hence jumping out of gear).

4.3 Synchro-mesh

Synchro-mesh is a process used inside the crashbox when shifting into either second or third gears. The

aim of synchro-mesh is to ensure the gearbox components are spinning at the same speed before they

are coupled together. This prevents gear crunching, and makes the gear change smooth. Synchro-mesh

is accomplished by the 2nd

and 3rd

speed clutch assembly. The 2nd

and 3rd

speed clutch assembly

connects to either of the 2nd

speed gear (when moving into 2nd

gear) or the clutch gear (when moving into

3rd

gear). The 2nd

and 3rd

clutch is splined internally to engage the splines on the main shaft and is free to

move along the splines – moving forward contacts the clutch gear, and moving backwards contacts the

2nd

speed gear.

Reading the descriptions of synchro-mesh in the Workshop Manuals is pretty daunting – you need to be a

rocket scientist to understand what is being described. In the text below, I’m going to describe syncho-

mesh in simple terms.

The whole aim of synchro-mesh is to join

two gears together end-to end i.e. as per

the green arrow in the diagram to the

right, not the red arrow. The easiest way

to think of syncho-mesh is that it is a very

simple set of brakes – the synchro

internals rub together like a brake drum,

slowing one gear until it is at the same

speed as the other.

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To demonstrate this, let’s look at how the main shaft second

speed gear (the part on the right hand side of the image to the

right), and the second and third speed clutch (the part on the

left hand side of the image) join together. To make it simple,

I’m going to call them the “red dot part” and “blue dot part”.

We want to go from this:

… to this:

When the two gears join, the external dog teeth on the main

shaft second speed gear (marked by red arrows in the image to

the right), slip into the internal dog teeth of the second and third

speed clutch (marked by green arrows). If these two parts are

spinning at different speeds, they will crunch horribly. This is

where our synchro assembly comes into play.

The synchro assembly lives in the end of the second and third

speed clutch gear, held in place by the circlip you can see in

the image to the right. The steel synchronizing cone (the bit my

finger is resting on) is held in place by the circlip, but is free to

spin in the clutch assembly.

In reality, the main

shaft second speed

gear and the second

and third speed

clutch don’t sit as far

apart as my first

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photo showed. Even when they are not joined, they sit inside each other like the image above left. This

means the steel synchro cone lug (red arrow in the image above right) rides in the main shaft second

speed gear groove (green arrow) all the time.

Again, in simple terms, we want to join together the part with

the red dot to the part with the blue dot. Our steel synchro

cone (green dot) is spinning at the same speed as the blue

dot part, which is moving through it in the direction of the

yellow arrow.

For arguments sake, assume our red dot is spinning at

1000rpm, and out blue and green dots at 500 rpm. We need

to slow down the red dot a bit so that the gears don’t crunch.

This is where the other half of the sychro assembly comes

into play.

Located inside our

red dot part are

bronze syncho rings.

These are pressed

and staked in place

(the FB and EK

Holden Workshop

Manuals indicate

they are then staked

in place… the earlier

manuals make no

mention of this, though visually there is no difference in the earlier and later assemblies ). The face of the

bronze syncro rings have a groove pattern to permit rapid scavenging of the gearbox oil film to inhibit

scuffing and hence permit rapid engagement of synchro.

As the steel synchro cone and bronze synchro rings are

pushed together, they rub on each other (see red and green

arrows in the image to the right). This rubbing acts like a

brake, slowing down our red dot part until it is the same speed

as our blue dot part.





yellow arrow. The green dot part is going to rub on the inside

of the red dot part, slowing down the red dot part.

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While this slowing down process is happening, something interesting is happening between the steel

synchro cone (our green dot part) and our blue dot part…

The two parts are spinning at the same speed, with the blue

dot part trying to pass through our green dot steel synchro

cone. However, because the steel synchro cone is being

rubbed on by the brass synchro ring, it tends to rotate slightly

relative to our blue dot part. In the image to the right, you can

see the green painted lug on the synchro, and the yellow

painted tip of the receiving groove. Because the two parts

have turned relative to each other, the yellow painted tip is

stuck on the green painted groove, preventing the two parts

moving together.

Once the braking

process has finished

(our red dot and blue

dot parts are

spinning at the same

speed), the steel

synchro cone no

longer has the

braking force on it,

and it can rotate

slightly. This lets the

green painted lug on the synchro, and the yellow painted tip of the receiving groove line up, and the two

parts can pass through each other. This lets the blue dot and red dot parts finally join together.





yellow arrow. The green dot part is going to rub on the inside

of the red dot part, slowing down the red dot part. Because of

the rubbing, the green dot and blue dot parts sit cockeyed to

each other, so the blue dot part can’t move forward. Once the

red, green and blue dot parts are at the same speed, the

rubbing stops. The blue and green dot parts twist slightly, line

up and allow the blue dot part to move forward. The red dot

and blue dot parts finally join.

To put some tension

on the assembly, a

spring is located

inside the steel

synchro cone (see

images to the right).

The spring acts as a

buffer between our

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blue dot part and the synchro assembly, putting in place enough force to slow the parts down without

“jamming” to synchro cone and ring together harshly.

Putting all this together in a simple drawing gives the

image to the right.

4.4 EK Holden Owners Manual Guidance

The EK Holden Owner Manual offers the following advice:

THE FOLLOWING SHOULD BE OBSERVED AT ALL TIMES

Do not hesitate to shift gears to avoid overloading the engine.

GEAR SHIFT LEVER

The gear shift lever may be placed in any one of five positions –

neutral, reverse, first, second and third. The operation of the lever

in engaging the gears consecutively is as follows:-

1. See that the gear shift lever is in neutral position (lever may

be moved up and down).

2. First Speed: With clutch pedal depressed, raise lever toward

steering wheel and pull downwards until it is fully engaged in

first speed location; then gradually release clutch pedal.

3. Second Speed: With clutch pedal depressed, push lever up

and away from steering wheel. Lever will cross through

neutral position, moving away from steering wheel, and

engage second speed position. Release clutch pedal.

4. Third Speed: With clutch pedal depressed, pull lever down

and away from steering wheel until lever has reached the

end of its travel into third speed position.

5. Reverse: With car at a standstill, depress clutch pedal, raise lever and push upwards towards steering

wheel.

Note: A return spring at the lower end of the control shaft automatically returns the gear shift lever to the

high speed side as soon as the lever is moved to the neutral position. Before 1st or reverse gear is

engaged, it is therefore necessary to lift the lever against the spring pressure.

CAUTION: Never attempt to shift into either first (low) or reverse gear while your car is in motion.

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Should it ever be necessary to start the engine by pushing or towing car, depress clutch pedal and turn

key starter to ON position. Place gearshift lever in neutral until car speed reaches 15 m.p.h. When vehicle

reaches this speed move shift lever to THIRD position and slowly release clutch pedal.

5 Maintenance

5.1 EK Holden Owner Manual Guidance

The EK Holden Owner Manual offers the following advice:

Routine Maintenance

Every 1,000 Miles

TRANSMISSION – SYNCHROMESH: Check oil level. If

necessary to top-up, use S.A.E. 90 Straight-run Mineral Gear Oil.

This should be done with the unit at operating temperature, at

which time the lubricant should be level with bottom of the filler

plug hole. If the lubricant level is checked with the unit cold, it

should be ½ inch below the filler plug hole.

GEAR SHIFT: The gear shift lower lever sliding surfaces at the lower end of the steering column should

be wiped clean every 1000 miles and a coating of graphite grease applied. At the same time, a small

amount of wheel bearing grease should be applied to the selector lever pivot pin.

The remainder of the gear shift control linkage is lubricated at assembly and requires further lubrication

only when the parts are disassembled.

Every 10,000 Miles

Gearbox (Synchro-mesh Transmission): The only maintenance required from the owner is that of

ensuring that the gearbox is lubricated in accordance with the directions on the lubrication chart

accompanying this book. When topping up, use S.A.E 90 Straight-run Mineral Gear Oil.

While seasonal changes of the lubricant are not required, it is recommended that the gear box be drained

and refilled with S.A.E 90 Straight-run Mineral Gear Oil approximately every 10,000 miles.

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Item Location Mileage No. of Points Lubricant Details

16 Transmission (Syncro-mesh)

1,000 miles One point. Check level. Top up with S.A.E 90 Straight-run mineral gear oil.

10,000 miles

Drain when hot and refill with S.A.E 90 Straight-run mineral gear oil.

Maintenance Schedule

The chart below offers maintenance recommendations on the basis of what testing and experience have

shown to be average car owner needs.

Mileage Interval in Thousands

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

20

21

22

23

24

25

Check Transmission Lubricant

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Check Brake and Clutch Master Cyl. Fluid Level

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

CAPACITIES

Transmission – Synchro-mesh – Refill 1.66 Pints

5.2 Alternative Lubricants

The following are alternative lubricants for the grey motor crashbox:

Item Original Volume Shell Caltex Valvoline Castrol BP

Transmission

S.A.E 90 Straight-

run mineral gear oil

1.66 Pints

(943mL)

Spirax S2A80W90

Caltex Torque Fluid 454

Premium Mono 50

Castrol Edge Sport

25W-50 or

Castrol Edge

25W-50

Hypogear 80W90

Gear shift lower lever

sliding surfaces

Graphite grease

Smear Grease 904

Selector lever pivot

pin

Wheel bearing grease

Smear Delo Grease

EP2

Wheel Bearing Grease,

Valplex M or EP or Optimum Choice Grease

EPL2 (NLGI 2)

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6 Assembly Diagrams

The following assembly diagrams relate to early Holden manual three-speed gearboxes. Please note:

I have taken each of the diagrams from the respective model Workshop Manual.

I have included the later EJ, EH, HD and HR three-speed crashboxes here mainly to demonstrate the

differences between them and the FX-EK crashboxes. The parts are very different, although the

internal operation is very similar.

Whilst the pictures and numbering vary slighty in the FX-EK diagrams, the construction is identical with

the exception of those issues highlighted in Section 3 above.

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6.1 FX Holden

Nº. DESCRIPTION Nº. DESCRIPTION

1 Front propeller shaft housing seal 36 Single row ball bearing assembly

2 Front propeller shaft yoke bushing assembly 37 Main shaft thrust washer

3 Front propeller shaft housing 38 Main shaft second speed gear

4 Front propeller shaft housing gasket 39 First and reverse sliding gear

5 Hexagonal head bolt (5/16”-18x¾”), spring lock washer

5/16” 40 Syncro cone retaining ring

6 Breather screw 41 Synchro cone energizing spring

7 Transmission and clutch case assembly 42 Synchro friction cone

8 Oil filler plug 43 Second and third speed clutch

9 Main transmission shaft 44 Selector shaft retainer gasket

10 Roller bearing 45 Selector shaft retainer

11 Clutch gear 46 Hexagonal head bolt ¼”-20x9/16, hexagonal head bolt ¼”-20x1

1/8,

spring lock washer ¼”

12 Clutch gear retainer gasket 47 Selector shaft seal

13 Clutch gear retainer 48 Selector shaft dust seal

14 Hexagonal head bolt (5/16”-18x

7/8”), spring lock washer

5/16” 49 Shifter lever

15 Single row bearing assembly 50 Spring lock washer 3/8” medium, hexagonal nut

3/8”-24

16 Clutch gear oil slinger 51 Selector lever shaft assembly

17 Clutch gear bearing lock ring 52 Special flat washer

18 Set screw 53 Selector lever shaft seal

19 First and reverse shifter lever 54 Selector lever shaft spring washer

20 Second and third shifter lever 55 Selector shaft control lever

21 Transmission selector shaft 56 Spring lock washer ¼” medium, light hexagonal nut ¼”-28

22 First and reverse shifter shaft 57 Hexagonal head bolt ¼”-20x9/16, spring lock washer ¼” medium

23 Special flat washer, Special hexagonal recess head screw 58 Copper and asbestos gasket ¾”, drain plug ¾”-16

24 Shifter shaft lock ball spring 59 Transmission cover

25 Shifter shaft lock ball (5/16” diameter) 60 Transmission cover gasket

26 Second and third speed shifter shaft 61 Counter shaft and reverse gear thrust washer

27 First and reverse shifter yoke 62 Roller bearing washer

28 Second and third speed shifter yoke 63 Roller bearing (38)

29 Set screw 64 Counter gear

30 Expansion plug ¾” 65 Counter gear shaft

31 Main shaft lock ring 66 Reverse idler gear bushing

32 Speedometer drive gear 67 Reverse idler gear assembly

33 Transmission main shaft ball (3/16”). 68 Reverse idler shaft lock pin

34 Speedometer driven gear fitting assembly 69 Reverse idler shaft

35 Mainshaft bearing lock ring

Note: Neither the FX nor FJ Workshop Manuals show the gearbox selector shaft as having an expansion plug (welsh plug) on the passenger side of the box. This

is incorrect – all grey motor crashboxes have a welsh plug in this location. The typo was fixed in FE Holden and later Workshop Manuals.

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6.2 FJ Holden



2 Front propeller shaft yoke bushing assembly 37 Main shaft thrust washer

3 Front propeller shaft housing 38 Main shaft second speed gear

4 Front propeller shaft housing gasket 39 First and reverse sliding gear

5 Spring lock washer 5/16”. Hexagonal head bolt

5/16”-18x¾ 40 Synchro cone retaining ring

6 Breather screw 41 Synchro cone energizing spring

7 Clutch and transmission case assembly 42 Synchro friction cone

8 Oil filler plug 43 Second and third speed clutch assembly

9 Transmission main shaft 44 Selector shaft retainer gasket

10 Roller bearing 45 Selector shaft retainer

11 Clutch gear 46 Hexagonal head bolt ¼”-20x9/16”. Hexagonal head bolt ¼”-20x1

1/8”.

Spring lock washer ¼”.

12 Clutch gear retainer gasket 47 Selector shaft seal

13 Clutch gear retainer 48 Selector shaft dust shield

14 Spring lock washer 5/16”. Hexagonal head bolt

5/16”-18x

7/8 49 Selector lever

15 Single row ball bearing assembly 50 Spring lock washer 3/8” medium. Hexagonal nut

3/8”-24.

16 Clutch gear oil slinger 51 Selector lever shaft assembly

17 Clutch gear bearing lock ring 52 Selector lever shaft seal

18 Set screw 53 Special flat washer

19 First and reverse shifter lever 54 Selector lever shaft spring washer

20 Second and third shifter lever 55 Selector shaft control lever

21 Selector shaft 56 Spring lock washer ¼” medium. Light hexagonal nut ¼”-28.

22 First and reverse shifter shaft 57 Spring lock washer ¼” medium. Hexagonal head bolt ¼”-20x9/16”.

23 Special flat washer. Special hexagonal recess head screw. 58 Copper and asbestos gasket ¾”. Drain plug ¾”-16

24 Shifter shaft lock ball spring 59 Transmission cover

25 Shifter shaft lock ball (5/16” diameter) 60 Transmission cover gasket

26 Second and third speed shifter shaft 61 Countershaft and reverse gear thrust washer

27 First and reverse shifter yoke 62 Roller bearing washer

28 Second and third speed shifter yoke 63 Roller bearing

29 Set screw 64 Counter gear

30 Expansion plug ¾” 65 Counter gear shaft

31 Main shaft lock ring 66 Reverse idler gear bushing

32 Speedometer drive gear 67 Reverse idler gear assembly

33 Main shaft ball (3/16” diameter) 68 Reverse idler shaft lock pin

34 Speedometer driven gear fitting assembly 69 Reverse idler shaft

35 Main shaft bearing lock ring

Note: Neither the FX nor FJ Workshop Manuals show the gearbox selector shaft as having an expansion plug (welsh plug) on the passenger side of the box. This

is incorrect – all grey motor crashboxes have a welsh plug in this location. The typo was fixed in FE Holden and later Workshop Manuals.

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6.3 FE/FC Holden


1 Front propeller shaft housing seal 35 Mainshaft bearing lock ring

2 Front propeller shaft housing assembly 36 Single row ball bearing assembly

3 Front propeller shaft housing gasket 37 Main shaft thrust washer

4 Clutch and transmission case assembly 38 Main shaft second speed gear

5 Clutch gear retainer gasket 39 First and reverse sliding gear

6 Clutch gear retainer 40 Syncro cone retaining ring

7 Expansion plug ¾” 41 Synchro cone energizing spring

8 Selector shaft 42 Synchro friction cone

9 First and reverse speed shifter shaft 43 Second and third speed clutch assembly

10 First and reverse shifter lever 44 Selector shaft seal

11 Second and third shifter lever 45 Selector shaft dust seal

12 Set screw 46 Selector lever

13 Shifter shaft lock ball (5/16” diameter) 47 Spring lock washer

3/8” medium, hexagonal nut

3/8”-24

14 Shifter shaft lock ball spring 48 Hexagonal head bolt ¼”-20x9/16, hexagonal head bolt ¼”-

20x11/8, spring lock washer ¼”

15 Special flat washer 49 Selector lever shaft assembly

16 Special hexagonal recess head screw 50 Selector lever shaft seal

17 First and reverse shifter yoke 51 Special flat washer

18 Second and third shifter yoke 52 Selector lever shaft spring washer



5/16” 53 Selector shaft control lever

20 Transmission main shaft 54 Spring lock washer ¼” medium, light hexagonal nut ¼”-28

21 Breather screw 55 Speedometer driven gear fitting assembly

22 Main shaft ball (3/16” diameter) 56 Copper and asbestos gasket ¾”, drain plug ¾”-16

23 Oil filler plug 57 Hexagonal head bolt ¼”-20x9/16, spring lock washer ¼”

24 Roller bearing 58 Transmission cover

25 Clutch gear 59 Transmission cover gasket



5/16” 60 Counter shaft and reverse gear thrust washer

27 Single row ball bearing assembly 61 Roller bearing washer

28 Clutch gear oil slinger 62 Roller bearing

29 Clutch gear bearing lock ring 63 Counter gear

30 Selector shaft retainer gasket 64 Counter gear shaft

31 Selector shaft retainer 65 Reverse idler gear assembly

32 Second and third speed shifter shaft 66 Reverse idler shaft lock pin

33 Main shaft lock ring 67 Reverse idler shaft

34 Speedometer drive gear

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6.4 FB Holden



2 Front propeller shaft housing assembly 36 Double row ball bearing assembly






8 Selector shaft 42 Synchro friction cone

9 First and reverse speed shifter shaft 43 Second and third speed clutch assembly

10 First and reverse shifter lever 44 Selector shaft seal

11 Second and third shifter lever 45 Selector shaft dust seal

12 Set screw 46 Shifter lever


3/8” medium (not illustrated), hexagonal

nut 3/8”-24












22 Main shaft ball (3/16” diameter) 56 Copper and asbestos gasket. Drain plug















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6.5 EK Holden



2 Front propeller shaft housing assembly 36 Double row ball bearing assembly






8 First and reverse speed shifter shaft 42 Synchro friction cone

9 Expansion plug ¾” 43 Second and third speed clutch assembly

10 Selector shaft assembly 44 Selector shaft seal

11 First and reverse shifter lever 45 Selector shaft dust seal

12 Second and third shifter lever 46 Shifter lever


3/8” medium, hexagonal nut

3/8”-24












22 Main shaft ball (3/16” diameter) 56 Copper and asbestos gasket ¾”, drain plug ¾”-16















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6.6 EJ Holden



2 Front propeller shaft housing assembly 34 Main shaft thrust washer

3 Front propeller shaft housing gasket 35 Main shaft second speed gear

4 Transmission case assembly 36 First and reverse sliding gear

5 Transmission case gasket 37 Synchro cone retaining ring

6 Spring lock washer 3/8” (four) 38 Synchro cone energizing spring

7 Hexagonal head bolt 3/8”-16x1

3/8” (four) 39 Synchro friction cone

8 Spring washer 40 Second and third speed clutch assembly

9 Clutch gear bearing retaining screw 41 Special nut

10 Hexagonal bolt 5/16”-18x1¼ “ 42 Spring lock washer

11 Special washer 5/16” 43 Selector external lever

12 Special gasket 44 Special spring washer

13 Oil filler plug 45 Selector lever assembly

14 Special gasket 46 Shift yoke shaft lock pin

15 Drain plug 47 Transmission cover assembly

16 Main shaft lock ring 48 Retaining plug

17 Internal tooth lock washer (three) 49 Counter shaft and reverse gear thrust washer

18 Hexagonal bolt 5/16”-18x2 “ 50 Roller bearing washer

19 Hexagonal screw 5/16”-18x

7/8“ (three) 51 Roller bearing

20 “O” ring 3/8”x

1/16” (four) 52 Counter gear

21 Second and third shift yoke shaft 53 Shift external lever

22 Second and third shift yoke 54 Shifter crank assembly

23 Transmission main shaft 55 Lever shift internal

24 Roller bearing 56 Hexagonal head screw ¼”-20x1¼”

25 Clutch gear 57 Hexagonal head screw ¼”-20x¾“ (seven)

26 Single row ball bearing assembly 58 Internal tooth lock washer ¼” (nine)

27 Clutch gear bearing retainer 59 Transmission cover gasket

28 First and reverse shaft 60 Counter gear shaft

29 Detent spring (two) 61 Counter gear shaft ball 3/16” diameter

30 Shifter yokes lock ball (two) 62 Reverse idler gear assembly

31 First and reverse shift yoke 63 Reverse idler shaft lock pin

32 Speedometer drive gear 64 Reverse idler shaft

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6.7 EH Holden

A separate Workshop manual and associated assembly drawing was not issued for the EH Holden. However, from the EH Holden Workshop

Manual supplement and the MasterParts 20 Years Catalogue, the following changes

are evident:

The design of the EJ Holden front propeller shaft housing was changed to

incorporate bolt bosses for mounting the transmission to the underbody

crossmember. In addition, the mounting face was extended to cover the

transmission drain hole, and the drain plug increased in length to also serve as

an attachment bolt. The image to the left shows the EJ Holden housing, whilst

the EH Holden housing is shown to the right.

The speedometer driving gear fitted to manual and Hydramatic transmissions was changed to eight teeth (the EJ Holden gear has seven).

The number of teeth on the driven gear was varied for EH Hydramatic transmissions (23 teeth, pink or red colour) was different to that of

the EH Holden manual transmissions (22 teeth, light or dark blue colour).

The casing assembly, side cover, first and reverse shifter yoke, first and reverse speed shaft, first and reverse sliding gear, counter gear,

counter shaft bearings and thrust washers, front propeller shaft housing assembly and gasket were changed during the EH Holden run (at

engine number 81520).

A main shaft sealed rear bearing became available during the EH Holden run.

The following changes were noted for the S4 EH Holden:

The bellhousing is larger with wider spacing of the bolt holes between the bellhousing and transmission case. The gear shifter crank

assembly, the shifter and selector rods were redesigned to provide adequate operating clearance from the bellhousing. The transmission

serial numbers have an S4 suffix. A steel backed babbit lined bush is installed in the front propeller housing. The 23 tooth speedometer

driven gear (pink or red) was utilized with the 3.55:1 rear axle ratio.

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6.8 HD Holden


1 Front propeller shaft housing seal 33 Speedometer drive gear

2 Front propeller shaft housing assembly 34 Single row ball bearing assembly


4 Transmission case assembly 36 Main shaft second speed gear

5 Transmission case gasket 37 First and reverse sliding gear

6 Spring lock washer 3/8” (four) 38 Synchro cone retaining ring


3/8” (four) 39 Synchro cone energizing spring

8 Spring washer 40 Synchro friction cone

9 Clutch gear bearing retaining screw 41 Second and third speed clutch assembly

10 Hexagonal bolt 5/16”-18x1¼ “ 42 Special nut

11 Special washer 5/16” 43 Spring lock washer

12 Special gasket 44 Selector external lever

13 Oil filler plug 45 Special spring washer

14 Main shaft lock ring 46 Selector lever assembly

15 Special washer 5/16” 47 Shift yoke shaft lock pin

16 Internal tooth lock washer (three) 48 Transmission cover assembly

17 Special gasket 49 Retaining plug

18 Hexagonal bolt 5/16”-18x2 “ 50 Counter shaft thrust washer

19 Hexagonal screw 3/8”-16x1¼ “ (three) 51 Roller bearing

20 Drain plug 52 Counter gear

21 “O” ring 3/8”x

1/16” (four) 53 Shift external lever

22 Second and third shift yoke shaft 54 Shifter crank assembly

23 Second and third shift yoke 55 Lever shift external

24 Transmission main shaft 56 Hexagonal head screw ¼”-20x1¼ “ (two)

25 Roller bearing 57 Hexagonal head screw ¼”-20x¾“ (seven)


27 Single row ball bearing assembly 59 Counter gear shaft

28 Clutch gear bearing retainer 60 Counter gear shaft ball 3/16” diameter

29 First and reverse shaft 61 Reverse idler gear assembly

30 Detent spring (two) 62 Reverse idler shaft lock pin

31 Shifter yokes lock ball (two) 63 Reverse idler shaft

32 First and reverse shift yoke 64 Reverse idler thrust washer

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6.9 HR Holden


1 Transmission rear extension seal 33 Speedometer drive gear

2 Transmission rear extension assembly 34 Single row ball bearing assembly

3 Transmission rear extension gasket 35 Main shaft thrust washer

4 Transmission case assembly 36 Main shaft second speed gear

5 Transmission case gasket 37 First and reverse sliding gear

6 Spring lock washer 3/8” (four) 38 Synchro cone retaining ring


3/8” (four) 39 Synchro cone energizing spring

8 Spring washer 40 Synchro friction cone

9 Clutch gear bearing retaining screw 41 Second and third speed clutch assembly

10 Hexagonal bolt 5/16”-18x1¼” 42 Special nut

11 Special 5/16” washer 43 Spring lock washer

12 Special gasket 44 Selector external lever

13 Oil filler plug 45 Special spring washer

14 Main shaft lock ring 46 Selector lever assembly

15 Special 5/16” washer 47 Shift yoke shaft lock pin

16 Internal tooth lock washer (three) 48 Transmission cover assembly

17 Special gasket 49 Retaining plug

18 Hexagonal bolt 5/16”-18x2” 50 Counter shaft thrust washer

19 Hexagonal screw 3/8”-16x1¼” (three) 51 Roller bearing

20 Drain plug 52 Counter gear

21 “O”-ring 3/8”x

1/16” 53 Shift external lever

22 Retainer plate 54 Shifter crank assembly

23 Second and third shift yoke shaft 55 Shift external lever

24 Transmission main shaft 56 Hexagonal head screw ¼”-20x1¼” (two)

25 Roller bearing 57 Hexagonal head screw ¼”-20x¾” (seven)


27 Single row ball bearing assembly 59 Counter gear shaft

28 Clutch gear bearing retainer 60 Counter gear shaft ball 3/16” diameter

29 First and reverse shaft 61 Reverse idler gear assembly

30 Detent spring (two) 62 Reverse idler shaft lock pin

31 Shifter yokes detent ball (two) 63 Reverse idler shaft

32 First and reverse shift yoke 64 Reverse idler thrust washer

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7 Disassembly and Overhaul Process

The following process describes the process of removal, disassembly and overhaul for a crashbox.

7.1 Kit Contents and Pre-disassembly

A number of kits are available for overhaul of crashboxes. I will compare the following kits below:

Manufacturer/Supplier

NASCO CBC Bearings Rare Spares Status

Engineering

Item Repair kit 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB,

EK (manual)

Repair kit 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK

manual (Replacement kit for major gearbox

overhaul for models FX, FJ, FC, FB,

EK)

Kit gearbox overhaul 3 speed

48 FJ FE FC FB EK

GMH 48/215 – EK 3 speed).

Part Number 7427800 7427800

(H1000STD)

7430864 (note that this is the same part number

as the genuine GMH Overhaul kit 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC)

GK2001

Cost Note: Prices are as at 2012 and are illustrative

only.

- - $218.90 $169.00

Clutch gear and mainshaft ball bearings and

lock rings

Yes

Counter shaft or reverse gear

thrust washers No Yes (2 off) No

Counter gear shaft

Yes (see notes on NASCO kit below)

Yes

Synchro cone energising

springs Yes (2 off) No

Main shaft lock rings

Yes (2 off) No

Clutch gear bearing lock ring

Yes No

Expansion plugs ¾”

Yes (4 off). Note the Rare Spares are now including 5 plugs per kit.

No

Clutch gear pilot and counter shaft roller bearings

Yes

Selector shaft Yes

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retainer gasket

Clutch gear retainer gasket


Yes

Front propeller shaft housing

gasket Yes

Front propeller shaft housing

seal


Yes

Selector shaft seal

Yes

Reverse idler shaft lock pin

Yes No

Transmission cover gasket

Yes

Selector lever shaft seal

Yes

Main shaft ball (3/16” diameter)

Yes No Yes

Synchro cone retaining ring

Yes (2 off) No

Two O-rings (redundant)

No Yes

Main shaft bearing lock ring

Yes No – supplied ring does not fit.

7.1.1 NASCO kit

I offer the following notes based on a NOS kit that I acquired. The kit had been opened prior to me

acquiring it.

The kit contains the following items:

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a) Synchro cone energising springs (two off).

b) Main shaft lock rings (two off)

c) Expansion plug ¾” (four off)

d) Roller bearings, 3/16” diameter x 0.522” long (thirteen off).

e) Roller bearings, 1/8” diameter x 0.610” long (twentyeight off).

f) Selector shaft retainer gasket

g) Front propeller shaft housing gasket

h) Selector shaft seal

i) Reverse idler shaft lock pin

j) Transmission cover gasket

k) Selector lever shaft seal

l) Main shaft ball (3/16” diameter)

m) Synchro cone retaining ring (two off)

n) Clutch gear bearing lock ring

o) Mainshaft bearing lock ring

Note that the counter gear shaft, clutch gear retainer gasket, counter gear shaft roller bearings (twelve

missing), front propeller shaft housing seal and ball bearings are conscious by their absence – I believe

they have been removed from this kit. Note also that the following sub-assemblies are numbered:

Selector shaft retainer gasket is marked GMH 7400206

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Selector shaft dust seal is marked Holden 1 7403035

Front propeller shaft housing gasket is marked GMH 7400401

Transmission cover gasket is marked 7400197

Bearings packet marked 7427676

Bearings packet marked 7427678

7.1.2 CBC Bearings kit

I offer the following notes based on a NOS kit that I acquired. The kit had been opened prior to me

purchasing it, and I believe that one of the ball bearings (an NTN Toyo 6205NS bearing) had been

removed – the kit appears otherwise complete.

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a) Ball bearing marked NTN Toyo Bearing Co. LTD Japan 6206NR 6206N Japan QU. ID 30mm, OD

62mm, 16mm thick, open face

b) Counter shaft and reverse gear thrust washers (two off)

c) Counter gear shaft, 0.650” diameter x 6.5” long.

d) Synchro cone energising springs (two off).

e) Main shaft lock rings (two off)

f) Expansion plug ¾” (four off)

g) Roller bearings, 3/16” diameter x 0.522” long (thirteen off).

h) Roller bearings, 1/8” diameter x 0.610” long (forty off).

i) Selector shaft retainer gasket

j) Clutch gear retainer gasket

k) Front propeller shaft housing gasket

l) Front propeller shaft housing seal

m) Selector shaft seal

n) Reverse idler shaft lock pin

o) Transmission cover gasket

p) Selector lever shaft seal

q) Main shaft ball (3/16” diameter)

r) Synchro cone retaining ring (two off)

s) Clutch gear bearing lock ring

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t) Mainshaft bearing lock ring

7.1.3 Rare Spares kit

The kit described below is the “over the counter” kit available

from Rare Spares (part number Kit gearbox overhaul 3 speed

48 FJ FE FC FB EK 7430864).


a) Ball bearing marked UBC-AUS 6206RS 6206RSNR. ID 30mm, OD 62mm, 16mm thick, rubber

shielded.

b) Ball bearing marked 6205RS, ID 25mm, OD 52mm, 15mm thick, rubber shielded.


d) Synchro cone energising springs (two off).

e) Main shaft lock rings (two off)

f) Expansion plug ¾” (four off – newer kits now come with five plugs).

g) Roller bearings, 3/16” diameter x

33/64” long (thirteen off).

h) Roller bearings, 1/8” diameter x 0.600” long (forty off).

i) Selector shaft retainer gasket

j) Clutch gear retainer gasket

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k) Front propeller shaft housing gasket

l) Front propeller shaft housing seal (a NAK Australia part number E137.206.25 seal).

m) Selector shaft seal marked NAK TC 0.625 1.000 0.250 6 (a NAK Australia part number E062.100.25

seal)

n) Reverse idler shaft lock pin

o) Transmission cover gasket

p) Selector lever shaft seal

7.1.4 Status Engineering

The kit described below is the “over the counter” kit available

from Status Engineering (part number GK2001 GMH 48/215 –

EK 3 speed).


a) Ball bearing marked Nachi Japan 247 2816206NSE. ID 30mm, OD 62mm, 16mm thick, rubber

shielded.

b) Ball bearing marked Nachi Japan 960 043 6205NSE C3. ID 25mm, OD 52mm, 15mm thick, rubber

shielded.


d) Roller bearings, 3/16” diameter x

33/64” long (fourteen off).

e) Roller bearings, 1/8” diameter x 0.612” long (fortythree off).

f) Selector shaft retainer gasket

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g) Clutch gear retainer gasket

h) Front propeller shaft housing gasket

i) Front propeller shaft housing seal marked NOK 2 52.37 16.8 TC 34.92.

j) Selector shaft seal marked TTO 8.570 TBR 10.0 62 25

k) Transmission cover gasket

l) Two o-rings

m) Selector lever shaft seal

n) Mainshaft ball, 3/16” diameter

7.1.5 Kit Comparison

The CBC Bearings and NASCO kits are no longer available, unless you manage to score a NOS kit from

eBay or swap meets. If this is the case, some care is warranted in inspecting the bearings to ensure that

they have not pitted during storage (the little paper packets that they were originally contained in do not

keep moisture out for half a century).

This leaves either the Status Engineering or Rare Spares kits as options for most rebuilds. The Status

Engineering kits are a little cheaper than the Rare Spares kit (at least at the time of writing this

document). However, the Status Engineering kit does not have all the components of the Rare Spares kit.

Whilst some items do not matter so much (for example the lock rings can normally be reused), other

items (for example the synchro springs and reverse idler lock pin) are rather handy to replace. The most

significant items not included in the Status Engineering kit are the ¾” expansion plugs. The old plugs

cannot be reliably reused. The absence of these plugs means that the reverse idler shaft and shifter

shafts cannot be removed, which holds a lot of other parts inside the gearbox. This can make it rather

difficult to replace bearings, not to mention cleaning all the sludge out of the casing. It is strongly

reccomended that if the Status Engineering kits are used, then the expansion plugs (and potentially

synchro springs) are purchased separately.

The Rare Spares kit, whilst holding more components, is not without fault. The kit used to supply only four

of the five expansion plugs required, an issue that Rares have recognised and fixed (old kits in cardboard

boxes may still have four plugs, the newer kits in blister packs have five). Equally, the gasket fit on the

Rares kit is in some cases poor, requiring rework to make them useable (for example the clutch gear

retainer currently blocks half the oil return hole). Rares has been notified of these issues, and again has

committed to addressing them in future kits.

Additionally, Status are able to supply refaced synchro cones for the grey motor crashbox. This is a

unique service, and would be very useful for worn cones.

7.2 Special Tools

There are quite a few special tools specified in the early Holden Workshop manuals for overhauling grey

motor crashboxes. Without a doubt they make the job easier. There is also no doubt that finding the

genuine tools is like finding rocking horse poo. Some of the tools can be replaced with common workshop

tools, albeit perhaps not in the manner that the tool maker originally intended (think of it as Harv’s School

of Tool Abuse). Listed below are the tools identified in the Workshop manuals, and some alternatives.

The rear bearing lock ring

must be expanded to allow

the bearing to be tapped out

of the casing. This can be

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done with a broad-bladed screwdriver, but a wedge-shaped piece of metal makes the job easier. The

original factory tool (tool 7A4) is simply a flat bit of 3.3mm steel with a 36o angle cut in the end. Only the

tip (about the first ½”) of the tool is used – the rest is just a glorified handle. The tool can be readily cut

from a piece of flat plate (the template to the right gives a guide). If you are making the press-plate below,

use the same 1.3mm steel sheet to make the 7A4 tool.

The clutch gear ball bearing is a press-fit onto the clutch gear. To

remove it, an arbor press is suggested by the Workshop Manuals.

Whilst it is possible to take the clutch gear to your local workshop and

have them press the bearing off, it is just as easy to drive it off

yourself. To do so, a press plate is required to slip in between the

clutch bear and bearing. A 6”x4” scrap of 1.3mm sheet steel with a

1½” slot cut into it does the job nicely – see image to the right. The

curve at the end of the slot fits nicely around the clutch gear, and was

marked by tracing around a socket.

Removing the front propeller shaft housing oil seal from front propeller shaft housing (also known as

pulling the oil seal out of the rear of the extension housing) can be a challenge. The seal is an

interference fit, and with half a century of vibration, heat, dirt and other abuse, they really don’t like to fall

out. It is not very practicable to drive them out by using a drift (or screwdriver… see photo below left) from

the opposite end. This is because there is a bronze bushing behind the seal, and the angle of the

screwdriver prevents you from getting into the small gap between seal and bushing. A bit of care is also

required to ensure that the bushing is not scored whilst driving. You could try levering the seal out with a

screwdriver, though this is a long and laborious task. There is also a big risk that when levering on the

alloy extension housing lip that you crack a chunk out of the lip (see red arrows in diagram below… no

cracks, but not for lack of trying).

The tool which makes this task easy is the genuine early Holden

hubcap remover (see image to the right). The hubcap remover is

the right length to slide inside the extension housing, and the claw will engage the small gap between

seal and bushing. Supporting the extension housing in a vice, and then gently tapping around the edges

of the seal will drive it out squarely – see photo below right, which has the hubcap tool inside the

extension. There are probably a few NASCO tool aficionados who have just sworn at me, but I have to

admit the hubcap remover makes a very good job of it. For those who want to make their own, a piece of

steel rod 10” long with a flattened claw 1” deep will do the trick (no need to make the tool as thick as the

original with a 5/8” wide claw).

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There is a genuine tool to do the job (part 7A9), and a

similar tool made by Litchfield (see image to the right).

The tools work by screwing into the rear of the seal,

and then using a bolt to push off the mainshaft and

remove the seal. These tools are no longer made,

and at the time of writing this document were fetching

around $150 each on eBay (!).

An additional tool which is handy is a main shaft installer. The original tool (7A5) is rare, but can be

manufactured from a length of 3/8” threaded rod and some water pipe. Note that the rod in the picture

below has a 1” length of 3/8” thread at one end and a much larger thread for most of the rod. The

3/8”

thread is necessary to screw into the mainshaft, but the rest of the rod (and the nut) can be any thread at

all (easiest to make the whole lot out of 3/8” threaded rod). The length of water pipe needs to have a

minimum internal diameter of 63

/64” minimum, with the one shown below being 13/64”.

Note that it is possible not to use this tool, and to just (gently!)

tap the mainshaft through the rear bearing. This is an

interference fit, and it too much force is used, you will blow out

the cast iron casing… its surprising how little force is needed to

do this.

Once the tailshaft is removed from the rear of

the gearbox, it will start to leak oil. Gearbox oil

is stinky, and is rather unpleasant to take an

impromptu bath in. A genuine “stopper” was

available (tool 7A1-1 – see images to the right),

though are fairly rare.

SuperCheap and other

retailers sell a universal

gearbox stopper to block the

hole (see left hand image to

the right), though sadly it is

not the correct size to fit a

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grey or red motor gearbox (it does however fit the Aussie 3-speed). One handy tool is a spare tailshaft

yoke (see middle image). The tailshaft yoke will allow you to block the end of the gearbox extension, and

prevent the oil from draining out. This can be handy for storing a gearbox full of oil, or for filling the

gearbox after overhaul (fill the gearbox whilst it is still out of the vehicle with the spare yoke installed, fit

the gearbox then remove the yoke). Another option is to buy a 32mm multi-fit hollow-type kitchen sink

plug from Woolworths, and punch out the centre (see right hand image above). Whilst not a perfect fit

around the main shaft splines, it does a surprisingly good job. Perhaps the easiest option is to drain the

gearbox before removing it, and refill it only once installed. .

There are quite a few snap rings and circlips inside the gearbox

holding various shafts and bearings in place. Most people are familiar

with circlips, which have “eyes” at each end (like the left hand ring in

the image to the right), and can be pulled out with circlip pliers (left

most pliers in the photo below. Circlip pliers are readily available from

places like Repco or SuperCheap. Snap rings do not have “eyes” at

the end of them (see right hand ring), which means that circlip pliers

do not necessarily get a good grip. Whilst it is possible to pull apart a

crashbox with circlip pliers, a pair of snapring pliers (right hand pliers

in the photo below) does a far better job. Snapring pliers are available

from engineering houses (places like Blackwoods). In the overhaul

photos below, I have used a mixture of both types of pliers.

When loading the roller bearings into the counter gear, some grease is

used to “glue” the rollers in place. The workshop manuals recommend

the 7A2 loading tool (a piece of steel bar) to help the process. I find the

factory tool is too small in diameter, and does more bad than good. A

better way to do this is to reuse the old counter gear shaft – it is the

perfect diameter, and costs nothing.

7.3 Removing the Gearbox from the Vehicle

1. Roll back the floor mat or carpet from the front floor to give access to the floor cover. Undo the

phillips head bolts attaching the floor cover (“transmission hump”) to the floor pan and remove the

cover.

2. As the transmission is removed, the engine will tilt. To prevent anything hanging up, disconnect the

battery earth strap, the starter motor cables and wires and the throttle rod from the carburettor.

3. Remove the starter motor.

4. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold (as the motor tilts, it will try to tear the

exhaust from its hangers).

5. Raise the vehicle and support it on jack stands.

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6. Disconnect the gearshift selector and control rods from the transmission. Remove the handbrake

intermediate lever support bracket attaching bolts, nuts and washers and allow the assembly to hang

out of the way.

7. Disconnect the exhaust pipe support bracket and speedometer cable drive from the transmission.

8. If you don’t have a stopper for the gearbox extension housing (see Special Tools above), drain the

oil from the gearbox.

9. Disconnect the propeller shaft at the rear universal joint flange and remove propeller shaft from front

propeller shaft housing. Fit the stopper now if you have one.

10. Remove the rear mounting lower attaching bolts, nuts, spring washers and lock plates.

11. Place a floor jack under the transmission pan, using a block of wood to spread the load and prevent

creasing of the pan. Gently take the weight of the transmission.

12. Remove the rear mountings and clutch actuating cylinder. Place the actuating cylinder to one side

out of the way.

13. Remove flywheel dust cover plate bolts and remove cover plate.

14. Remove the transmission case mounting bolts and lower the engine and transmission assembly on

the jack.

15. Draw the transmission assembly away from the dowel pins in the rear of the crankcase, then draw

the transmission assembly away from the engine. Keep the assembly supported so that it will not tilt

and damage the clutch plate.

7.4 Disassembly

1. Place the transmission on a workbench sitting right-way-up.

Disconnect the clutch fork seal plate spring by levering the end

of the spring out with a pair of pliers, then remove the spring by

sliding along the clutch fork.

2. Remove the seal and guide plates from the casing by levering

them out gently with a screwdriver and sliding along the clutch

fork.

3. Use your fingers to pull the

clutch throwout bearing

assembly forwards, which

should pop out the clutch fork

from the clutch fork ball.

Remove the clutch throwout

bearing assembly and clutch

fork from the casing.

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4. Undo and remove the two slot-head screws in the top of the

casing. Remove the bellhousing vent cover.

5. Undo and remove the three

½”AF clutch gear retainer bolts

from the front end of the

casing. Remove the clutch

gear retainer and gasket. Do

not remove the clutch gear at

this stage.

6. Undo the five ½”AF bolts from

the rear of the housing.

Remove the front propeller

shaft housing.

7. Using a hubcap remover tool, and supporting the front propeller

shaft housing in a vice, tap out the oil seal (see notes in Special

Tools above). And no, the grease and dirt didn’t magically fall off

the housing in the photo… I just got sick of working in the crap.

8. Roll the transmission onto its

side and remove the eleven

7/16”AF transmission cover

bolts. Remove the transmission

cover, sump plug and gaskets.

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9. Using a drift and hammer, drive out the counter gear shaft from the rear of the casing to the front

(this is a tapered fit – the shaft will not drive out from the front to the rear). Remove the counter gear

assembly, roller bearings and thrust washers from the casing. Note that there should also be a steel

ball in the end of the countergear – take care to catch it as the shaft is tapped out.

10. Working from inside the casing

through the open bottom, drive

out the reverse idler shaft

expanding (welsh) plugs with a

drift and hammer (you will not

get a straight hit on the plugs –

but it is not seated too hard).

Note that there is one plug in

the front of the case and one

plug in the rear.

11. Use a drift and hammer to gently tap

the reverse idler shaft lock pin inwards

until it is just lodged in the shaft.

12. Use a drift and hammer and working through the front of the casing, remove the reverse idler shaft

through the rear of the transmission case. Note that removal by tapping from the rear to the front will

allow the lock pin to lodge between the gear bushings… not a good thing.

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13. Remove the reverse idler gear and thrust washers from the

reverse idler shaft.

14. Roll the casing upright. Using a 5/16” allen key, remove the two

shifter shaft lock spring and ball

lock screws. Pick the two

springs and two balls out with a

small screwdriver. It may be

necessary to turn the casing

over to allow the balls to drop

out. Don’t panic if the balls

won’t come out – they can be pushed through later once the shifter shafts are removed.

15. Roll the casing onto its side and use a large flat-head screwdriver to undo and remove the two shifter

yoke lock screws.

16. With the shifter shafts in neutral position, move the transverse

selector shafts across and engage the 2nd

and 3rd

shift lever cam

with the slot in the second and third speed shifter shaft. This

sounds like complex instructions to do the Hokey Pokey (left leg

in, left leg out…). In simple terms (and using the diagram to the

right), pull the shaft in the direction of the green arrow. The cam

engages with the slot (see the green circle). Don’t panic, you can

see all this by looking in the end of the casing.

17. Rotate the transverse selector shaft towards

the second gear position by turning the

shifter lever anticlockwise (see the red

arrow in the diagram above) – continue this

movement until the second and third speed

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shift lever cam on the transverse shaft clears the slot in the shift shaft. The second and third speed

shifter shaft may now be drawn through the rear of the transmission case. The second and third

speed selector fork will drop off – fish it out of the casing.

18. Remove the three 7/16”AF

selector shaft retainer

mounting bolts, and remove

the retainer and shaft assembly

together with the gasket.

19. Using a drift through the side of

the casing, tap out the

expansion plug that normally

covers the end of the selector

shaft. Even if you overhaul kit

has only four plugs, I

recommend taking this plug

out. The rear compartment is

difficult to clean out with kero,

and the more access holes you can make in it the better.

20. Working through the front of the casing, pull out the clutch gear

and bearing assembly by grabbing on the shaft and pulling. It

may be necessary to jiggle the assembly from side to side to help

it to come out. As the assembly comes out, the thirteen needle

roller bearings from the main shaft pilot will drop out – fish them

out of the casing.

21. Remove the first and reverse

speed shifter shaft through the

rear of the casing. The first and

reverse shift yoke will drop off

– fish it out of the casing.

22. Remove the speedometer

driven gear from the

transmission case by undoing

the 11/16”AF nut then drawing

out the gear assembly.

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23. Remove the speedometer drive gear retaining ring with snap ring pliers (by making the ring “open

up”). Draw the drive gear and locating ball from the main shaft. I’ve got the gearbox sitting on a block

of wood in the photo below right only to make the photo clearer.

24. Remove the main shaft lock ring behind the rear bearing with snap ring pliers (by making the ring

“open up”). Note that in some gearboxes, there may not be a main shaft lock ring on this side of the

speedometer drive gear, but instead there will be a steel collar loosely sitting on the shaft. Don’t

panic – this just means that the gearbox has had double-row bearings fitted to an FX-FC Holden

main drive shaft (see Section 3.2 above to explain why this is done). Remove the collar from the

shaft.

25. Remove the front synchronizer cone retaining snap ring with snap ring pliers (by making the ring

“squeeze in”). Remove the steel cone.

26. Using a pointed object (I’m

using a dental pick in the

photo), gently prise out the

synchro cone energizing

spring from the synchro cone,

taking care not to bend the

spring. Store the cone in a

plastic bag and label it as

front synchoniser cone – this

way you will remember which end of the clutch assembly to put it in. This is important, as the steel

synchro friction cones bed themselves into the brass friction surface over time, creating a matched

pair.

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27. Using a soft copper or brass drift, drive the main shaft through the

rear bearing to the front of the box and remove it. This allows the

synchronizing clutch assembly,

one shifter yoke and the

remaining gears to be removed

from the transmission case.

28. Expand the rear bearing lock ring with tool 7A4, or a broad-

bladed screwdriver. This should only need hand pressure, not a

hammer. Ensure that the lock ring expands freely and that the

ends showing in the “D” shaped hole in the casing do not bend. If

you go too heavy handed and bend the ring (or snap the ends off

it) then you are in a world of poo. Think die-grinder, gradual

bearing removal and swearing. With the 7A4 tool or screwdriver

still in place, remove the bearing by tapping the outer race

towards the inside of the transmission case. A large socket

(about 15/16”AF) with an extension bar on it makes a perfect drift (just don’t tell the Sidchrome rep I

suggested it ). I’ve got the gearbox sitting on a block of wood in the photo to the right only to make

the photo clearer. The tapping process doesn’t need much force – excess force probably means the

lock ring is not expanded properly. If you tap the bearing too hard (and the lock ring is still not

expanded), you will crack the casting around the bearing before the lock ring gives way. This is not a

happy experience.

29. Lever out the rear bearing lock ring with a pair of screwdrivers.

30. Remove the filler plug (9/16”AF) from the casing.

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31. Remove the alloy breather cap by levering it off with a

screwdriver, then remove the breather body (9/16”AF) from the

transmission casing.

32. Working through the rear of the

case, tap out the two selector

shaft expansion plugs with a

long drift. Note that these are

the fourth and fifth expansion

plugs to be removed. If your

overhaul kit has only four plugs

in it, you may wish to either

leave one of these plugs in

place, or buy a single ¾” welsh plug from Repco/SuperCheap/Bursons.

33. Undo the selector lever shaft

nut (7/16” AF). Gently prise the

selector shaft control level from

the selector shaft, then

disassemble the selector lever

shaft assembly, flat washer and

seal. Note that there is no seal

in the photo to the right… it had

crumbled to nothing.

34. Undo the shifter shaft nut (9/16” AF), then gently prise the shifter

lever from the shifter shaft. Remove the dust seal and shifter

shaft. Using a drift, tap out the selector shaft seal. Take care how

you support the selector shaft retainer – it is easy to snap the

“ears” off the housing (see photo to the right).

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35. Using snap ring pliers, remove

the syncro cone retaining ring

from the back of the second and

third speed clutch assembly.

Remove the synchro friction

cone.

36. Using a pointed object (I’m

using a dental pick in the

photo), gently prise out the

synchro cone energizing

spring from the synchro cone,

taking care not to bend the

spring. Store the cone in a

plastic bag and label it as

second/third speed clutch –

this way you will remember which end of the clutch assembly to put it in (treat it as a matched pair).

37. Remove the clutch gear bearing retainer ring and oil slinger, using snap ring pliers.

38. Place the press plate

over the clutch gear

and against the bearing

and sit the assembly in

a vice. Note from the

photo to the right that

there is a piece of wood

under the clutch gear –

this is used to “catch”

the clutch gear once

the bearing lets go

without damaging the

snout of the clutch gear. Using a brass or copper drift (to prevent damaging the other end of the

clutch gear), gently tap the clutch gear off the bearing.

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7.5 Cleaning and Inspection

1. Give all the parts a scrub up in a container of kerosene with a plastic brush. This will get most of the

oil, dirt and rubbish off the parts. It’s not a bad idea to give the cleaned parts a quick coat of sewing

machine oil, particularly if it will take you some time to put the crashbox back together.

2. Thoroughly clean the case and check it for defects and cracks that may cause oil leaks.

3. Check for, and if necessary dress off with a fine file any burrs present on the front flange or the

machined faces.

4. Bearings are relatively cheap, and it is unlikely that you will reuse them. If you do however decide to

reuse them, wash the bearings out in petrol and blow them dry with compressed air. Resist the

temptation to put the bearings onto your finger and spin them with the compressed air – if you are

lucky they will just seize. If you are unlucky, they will seize and tear off a sizeable chunk out of your

finger. Lubricate the bearings with engine oil and check for wear, scoring, pits or roughness.

5. Inspect the counter shaft gear and needle rollers for wear or pitting. As wear of the rollers is difficult

to discern, it is good practice to replace with new rollers where substantial mileage has been covered

by the gearbox. Again, bearings are cheap, and a new countergear shaft is supplied in most

overhaul kits, so it is unlikely you will reuse the bearings or shaft.

6. Clear and carefully

inspect the gear teeth

and other ground

surfaces for wear,

scoring, pitting, chips,

nicks and burrs. Slight

scores or burrs may be

honed off with a fine

stone, however if any

gear is chipped or unduly worn it should be replaced. As an example, the first and reverse sliding

gear shown to the left above has some badly chipped gears, and was replaced. The gears in the

image to the right above have even more obvious damage.

7. Check that the first and reverse sliding gear slides freely on the second

and third gear clutch assembly with minimal clearance. Try the sliding

gear on different splines of the second and third speed clutch assembly

until the best fit has been obtained. The mated parts should then be

marked with a dab of paint (or liquid paper) as a guide to final assembly.

8. Check that the second and third speed clutch assembly has a free sliding fit on the main shaft

splines with minimal clearance. Try the second and third speed clutch assembly on different splines

of the main shaft until the best fit has been obtained. The mated parts should then be marked with a

dab of paint (or liquid paper) as a guide to final assembly.

9. Check the reverse idler bushings for wear by using an inside and outside micrometer and subtracting

the difference. The correct clearance is from 0.002-0.004”. However, replacement bushings are not

so easy to find, and to be honest some slight slop in these bushings is not going to do much damage

other than become slightly noisier. 0.003-0.008” of clearance is not uncommon.

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10. Check the bronze inserts in the second and third speed clutch

for wear and looseness in the clutch. Check that the oil grooves

are clean, and use a pointed object to gently pick out any

embedded bits of steel. Never polish or change the angle of this

surface.

11. Place the cones in position in the respective clutch and check that they

do not rock. A rocking synchro cone will not engage evenly and should

be replaced. Remember to put the cones back in the correctly labeled

bag so that you do not mix them up.

12. Inspect the energizing springs for wear or damage. These can be replaced as they are included in

some kits (e.g. Rare Spares).

13. Check the selector shafts and shifter shafts by rolling them on a

flat surface to see whether they are bent. A bent shaft will cause

hard shifting and must be replaced.

14. Inspect the shifter yokes for wear and rough contact surfaces,

and ensure that the yoke lock screws are tight in the yokes. They

have an offset head to provide a self-locking action and should

not screw in freely by hand. Note that some EK Holden yokes

have no screws at all.

15. Check the lock springs for

tension and the balls for wear.

Note that the lock springs

should measure approximately

11/8” free length and

23/32”

under 15-17lb load (though

measuring them under load is

not an easy thing in a home

workshop). Springs that are

under the 11/8” free length can be (gently) stretched back by hand, taking care not to bend the spring.

I have also seen collets added to increase the spring pressure and make the shift more “notchy” - the

image to the right above shows a collet found inserted into the 2nd

and 3rd

speed shifter shaft spring

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of an EK Holden gearbox. In theory, a number of small flat washers added on top of the spring would

serve the same purpose.

7.6 Reassembly and Reinstallation

1. Install the rear bearing lock ring in the case by gently levering it

in with a screwdriver. Ensure that it has free movement in the

groove with a minimum of clearance. Align the ends of the ring to

the D-shaped hole. Note that in the image to the right I have

(incorrectly) installed the lock ring that comes with either the

Rare Spares or Status Engineering kits. These rings are too

large, and will not let the bearing seat. It is important that the

original rear bearing lock ring is reused.

2. Remove the kit-supplied rear bearing lock ring from the rear

roller bearing (the small bearing) with a pair of snap ring pliers.

Discard the ring.

3. Start the bearing in from the front of the casing and us the lock

ring expanding tool (Tool No. 7A4) to expand the ring into the

case. Note that the locking groove on the bearing goes towards

the rear of the case (if you put the bearing in back to front, it will

hang out the end of the casing!).

4. Using a soft metal drift (or a

wooden hammer handle), tap

around the bearing outer race

until it is underneath the lock

ring, then remove the

expanding tool and continue to

tap bearing until the lock snaps

into position in the bearing. The

outer race of the old bearing

makes a great drift for this job.

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5. Install the energizing springs in the friction cones, and check to see that the inside sections of the

springs sit proud of the groove by 0.015”-0.020”. If they don’t, use a pair of pliers to gently bow the

flat sections out, then pull apart the spring tips. Recheck that the springs sit proud by 0.015”-0.020”.

6. Place the cones in the correct end of the clutch assembly as marked out in disassembly (they should

be marked out in plastic bags).

7. Install the friction cone retaining rings with a pair of circlip pliers,

making sure it seats in properly. Check that the friction cones

have clearance (are free to turn).

8. Install the first and reverse sliding gear onto the 2nd

and 3rd

speed clutch in its selected and marked position (line the paint

marks up).

9. Install the second speed gear in the clutch assembly, meshing

the clutch teeth on the gear with the internal teeth in the clutch

assembly. As it slides in, you should feel it “bump” as it overrides

the synchro cone energizing springs.

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10. Coat one side of the main shaft thrust

washer (the shiny steel washer… not the

brass dimply ones) with gear lubricant and

place it on the back face of the second

speed gear, using the gear lubricant as

“glue” to hold it in place. Install the clutch

sleeve assembly in the transmission case,

letting it sit in the bottom of the case for

now.

11. Smear the main shaft second speed gear bearing surface with transmission lubricant then install the

main shaft from the front of the casing, ensuring that the friction cone lugs line up with the gaps in

the main shaft splines and that the paint marks on the selected splines line up. Push it through as far

as possible by hand, picking up the clutch assembly and thrust washer as it goes through.

12. Start the set screws into the

shifter yokes, taking care that

they do not protrude inside the

yoke (which would stop the

shafts passing through them).

Place the shifter yokes over

their guide pins inside the

casing, taking care to put the

right yoke in the right position

(see photos above right). The yokes sit there loosely for now.

13. Line up the front friction cone lugs with

the gaps in the main shaft splines and

draw the main shaft into position using

tool No. 7A5. This can be done very,

very cautiously with a hammer and soft

drift, though extreme care is needed. If

the mainshaft binds on the rear bearing, it can break the casing

casting around the bearing. Draw the main shaft in until the lock

ring groove is visible behind the rear bearing.

14. Using snap ring pliers, install the main shaft lock ring in the

groove behind the rear bearing.

15. Use a feeler gauge to measure the main shaft end float at the

thrust washer. This should be from 0.006-0.010”. Clearances

outside this range require removal of the main shaft and resized

thrust washers (or shims) to be used.

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16. Ensure that the speedometer drive gear is a push fit on the main

shaft (slide it on then back off again).

17. Install the speedometer drive locating ball in the recess in the

main shaft using a pair of long nosed pliers. CAUTION: Do not

force the ball into the recess or disassembly may be difficult. A

dab of grease can help “glue” the ball in place temporarily.

18. Install the drive gear up to the ball, aligning the slot in the drive

gear with the ball. Use a pair of snapring pliers to install the

locking ring.

19. Lightly coat the clutch gear shaft with gear oil. Press the bearing on the clutch

gear either in an arbor press or by using a length of pipe to bear against the

inner raceway of the bearing only (that home-made 7A5 tool shown in

“Special Tools” above is just the right size to do this).

20. Install the oil slinger with the three locating lugs centered on the

bearing inner raceway. The lugs hold the slinger off the bearing –

if the slinger is flat against the bearing, try turning it over.

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21. Clutch gear bearing retaining rings were originally available in

four thicknesses, though now are only supplied in one size. Use

snapring pliers to install the ring and seat it securely in the lock

ring groove.

22. Smear some wheel bearing

grease in the clutch gear main

shaft pilot and install the

thirteen needle roller bearings

(these are the thicker rollers).

The grease will act as a “glue”,

holding the bearings in place

for now (and lubricating them

when in service). After

installation the bearings will lock themselves in place and cannot fall out.

23. Install the bearing locating ring

onto the clutch gear bearing.

Install the clutch gear in the

transmission case and lightly

tap around the bearing outer

race with a soft drift until the

bearing locating ring seats

against the transmission case.

Caution: during this operation,

make sure that the front synchronizer friction cone lugs line up with the gaps between the clutch

teeth on the clutch gear. If the locating ring does not quite seat up against the transmission case, pull

the clutch gear out and check that one of the rollers has not fallen out of its place.

24. Install the first and reverse shifter shaft from the rear of the

gearbox (this is the shaft where the three detent notches are

widely spaced). Feed it through the shifter yoke and tighten the

yoke setscrew with a normal screwdriver.

25. Roll the case over to install the lock ball, spring and screw to retain the shaft in the neutral position.

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26. Push and turn the first and

reverse shifter shaft (working

through the end of the casing)

until the cutaway of the

selector shaft lines up with the

selector shaft hole in the case

(see image to the left). Install

the selector shaft assembly (it

just sits in place for now and

feels wobbly).

27. Install the second and third

speed shifter shaft and feed it

through the yoke (this is the

shaft where the three detent

notches are close together).

This is a bit of a tight fit, and

tends to rub until it slots into

place. At the same time, pick

up the slot in the shifter shaft with the second and third speed shifter lever (the cam on the selector

shaft). Tighten the yoke setscrew.

28. Roll the case over then rotate the selector shaft to the neutral position and install the lock ball, spring

and screw.

29. Install the selector shaft

retainer gasket. Clean the

round seal surface of the

selector shaft retainer with

some petrol to remove any oil,

then install it. Install the three

bolts and split washers finger

tight for now.

30. Smear some sealant around the outside of the selector shaft

seal, then start it into the selector shaft retainer. Drive it gently

home using an 11

/16” socket as a drift. Tighten up the three

retainer bolts.

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CAUTION: WITH THE SELECTORS IN PLACE, IT IS TEMPTING TO ROCK THE GEARBOX BACK

AND FORTH THROUGH THE GEARS TO MAKE SURE THEY “WORK”. IF YOU ARE

OVERZEALOUS IN SHIFTING INTO THIRD GEAR, YOU WILL DRIVE THE CLUTCH GEAR OUT OF

THE FRONT OF THE GEARBOX. WHILST NOT THE END OF THE WORLD, IT IS FIDDLY TO GET

BACK IN… AND TENDS TO MOOSH THE SYNCHO FACES. GO GENTLY, OR WAIT UNTIL THE

CLUTCH GEAR RETAINER COVER IS IN PLACE.

31. Smear the reverse idler thrust

washers with gear lubricant and

install the gear and washers in

the case. Note that the brass

dimply side of the thrust

washers goes towards the

gear, whilst the steel side has

tangs that locate in the casing.

The lubricant acts as a “glue” to hold the washers in place, and also gives start-up lubrication. Be

careful which way the reverse idler gear goes in, as it will not work properly if it goes in back to front

– double check with the photo above right, and the diagram below (which is looking up from under

the gearbox bottom cover).

32. Insert the reverse idler shaft through the end of the casing,

picking up the thrust washers and gear. Making sure that the lock

pin hole in the shaft lines up with the hole in the case. Note that

the photo to the right shows the reverse idler gear in back-to-

front – it should look like the photo and diagram in the step

above!

33. Check the end clearance between the reverse idler gear and

thrust washer. This should be between the range 0.003”-0.009”,

however 0.015” is allowable on worn parts. Clearances outside

this range require removal of the reverse idler gear and resized

thrust washers (or shims) to be used. And yes, the reverse idler

gear is still in back-to-front in this photo (guess who had to pull it

out again?).

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34. Select a new tight fitting reverse idler shaft lock pin and drive in

flush with case. And look at that… I finally remembered to turn

that reverse idler gear around the right way!

35. Smear each bearing surface of the counter gear with wheel

bearing grease and install a spacer washer inside each end (the

washer is hanging off my finger in the image to the right).

36. Slip the old counter gear shaft into the counter gear (I don’t recommend using the loading tool 7A2,

even if you have one). Install nineteen rollers at each end (this are the thinner rollers), then install

another spacer washer at each end of the gear. The photo to the

right does not show the last spacer washer.

37. Pull out the old counter gear shaft (or loading tool), taking care

not to displace the spacer washers. The counter gear is ready to

install. Note that the wheel bearing grease acts as a “glue” to

hold the rollers in place, and also as lubricant for startup.

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38. Smear both thrust washers with wheel bearing grease. Use the grease as a “glue” to glue the thrust

washers to the casing (it also acts as a startup lubricant). Note that the brass dimpled side of the

thrust washer goes towards the gear, and the steel side with the tangs goes towards the casing.

Note also that the casing has a large and small slot for the tangs (see red screwdriver in the middle

image below) – align the tangs in the thrust washers to the small slot to give a better fit.

39. Insert the old counter gear shaft into the counter shaft bore, at

the rear of the transmission case just enough to locate the thrust

washer in place. If you don’t have the loading tool, use your

finger through the end of the casing to hold the thrust washer.

Insert the new counter gear shaft in the opposite (front) end, just

enough to locate the other thrust washer in place. Make sure that

the dimpled end of the counter gear shaft is out of the casing.

40. Lower the counter gear into

place and push the counter

gear shaft into the case and

through the counter gear, which

will line the thrust washers up

and push out the old counter

gear shaft (… or your finger).

Use a smear of grease to glue

the locating ball onto the

counter gear shaft dimple. Line up the locating ball in the counter gear shaft with the receiving

groove in the case and drive the counter shaft gear in flush with the case with a drift.

41. Check the counter gear end play with a feeler gauge. This should

be between the range 0.003”-0.009”, however 0.015” is allowable

on worn parts. Clearances outside this range require removal of

the counter gear and resized thrust washers (or shims) to be

used.

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42. Coat the transmission case holes with sealing compound one by one and install a new expansion

plug in each. The plugs go convex side out, and then are tapped in until they are flat with a large

drift. There are five plugs to do – the two shifter shaft plugs inside the bellhousing at the front of the

casing, the front and rear ends of the reverse idler shaft and the selector shaft end.

43. Install the clutch gear retainer and gasket with the drain slot in

the correct position (lined up with the return hole in the case).

Tighten the three ½”AF bolts and spring washers.

44. Install the speedometer driven gear (11/16”AF) by screwing it into

the casing.

45. Install the transmission cover and cork gasket, then tighten the eleven 7/16”AF bolts and spring

washers. Don’t over tighten though, as the cork transmission cover gasket will deform (and leak).

Around 5-6 ftlb of torque should be sufficient.

46. Install the drain plug and copper washer.

47. Install the bellhousing vent cover with the two slot head screws. Take care to put the louvers the right

way up (to keep water out).

48. Install the selector shaft dust cover, shifter lever, and washer. Tighten the 9/16”AF nut to 4-6lbft.

49. Soak the cork selector lever shaft seal in gearbox oil overnight… a VB

bottle lid makes a great tray to soak it in. Slip the oily seal over the

selector lever shaft, followed by the special flat washer, selector lever

shaft spring washer and the selector shaft control lever. Install the

spring washer and 7/16”AF nut and tighten up until the spring washer just

starts to crush (there should be a clearance of 0.026-0.061”. though this

is damn hard to measure correctly).

50. Clean the inside of the front propeller shaft housing (where the seal sits) with some petrol to get rid

of oil and grease. Coat the area with a very light smear of sealant, then tap in a new seal, using a

block of wood as a drift.

51. Install the front propeller shaft housing and gasket. Torque the ½”AF bolts to 15-18lbft.

52. Pour approximately 6oz (170mL) of gear lubricant into the rear compartment (via the breather hole)

to provide initial lubrication of the propeller shaft bushing. Note that this is very important, as the

bearing used in the back of the transmission has changed. The original bearings were open units,

which allowed a moderate flow of oil to pass through them. The modern bearings supplied in

overhaul kits are typically either shielded or sealed. The seals or shields substantively reduce the

flow of oil through the bearing. This can prevent oil getting through from the main casing into the

extension housing for quite a while.

53. Install the casing vent (9/16”AF) and tap on the alloy cover with a wooden hammer handle. Note that if

you tilt the gearbox around, this oil will flow out the back of the seal. Now is a good time to cover the

end of the box with a piece of plastic bag taped on, use a spare yoke or the original extension

housing protector tool.

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54. Fill the gearbox with lubricant so that the oil level is ½” below the filler plug hole. This should take

about 950mL. A piece of bent coathanger wire makes a good dipstick. If you haven’t sealed up the

back of the gearbox, then oil is now dribbling over the floor. Install the filler plug (9/16”AF). Note that it

is possible to fill the box when it is in the car using the flexible spout/tube that comes with most

bottles of gear oil… it’s just easier to fill it on the bench.

55. Pack the ball seat of the clutch throwout fork and the recess in the throwout bearing and coat the

throwout fork groove with wheel bearing grease.

56. Install the throwout bearing and fork on the clutch bearing retainer and snap the fork onto its ball

seat.

57. Install the clutch fork cover and spring.

58. Check the transmission in all gears to ensure that there is no indication of binding in any position.

59. Place the transmission under the vehicle and support it on a trolley jack, using a block of wood to

spread the load and prevent creasing of the bottom cover. Move the transmission assembly towards

the engine and onto the dowel pins in the rear of the crankcase. The dowels should move in 5/16”.

60. Install the transmission case mounting bolts. Note that to prevent the case from

warping the bolts should be tightened in a cross-fashion (not by working from one

bolt to the next – see diagram to the right).

61. Install the flywheel cover plate and bolts.

62. Install the rear mountings and clutch actuating cylinder.

63. Adjust the clutch fork operating rod free travel to 5/64”.

64. Remove the floor jack.

65. Install the rear mounting lower attaching bolts, nuts, spring washers and lock plates.

66. Install the propeller shaft.

67. Reconnect the exhaust pipe support bracket and speedometer cable drive to the transmission.

68. Reconnect the gearshift selector and control rods to the transmission. Install the handbrake

intermediate lever support bracket attaching bolts, nuts and washers.

69. Lower the vehicle.

70. Double check that the gearbox oil level is ½” below the filler plug hole… and don’t forget to refit the

filler plug.

71. Reconnect the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold.

72. Reinstall the starter motor.

73. Reconnect the battery earth strap, the starter motor cables and wires and the throttle rod to the

carburettor.

74. Reinstall the floor cover to the floor pan and reinstall the floor mat or carpet to the front floor.

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7.7 Replacement Parts

In addition to the overhaul kits listed above, the following individual replacement parts are available for

crashboxes.

GMH Name

Assembly Drawing Number

NOTE 1 Name (supplier)

Supplier’s Part

Number FX FJ FE/FC FB EK

Selector Shaft Seal

47 50 44 TC-type seal (NAK Australia) E062.100.2

5

Transmission Cover Gasket Front

Propellor Shaft

Housing Gasket

Clutch Gear Retainer Gasket Selector

Shaft Retainer Gasket Selector

shaft seal

60 4 12 44 53

59 3 5

30 50

Gasket Set Grey Gearbox FX-EK (Rare Spares)

7405896

Front Propeller

Shaft Housing

Seal

1

Extension Housing Oil Seal FX-HK 3

Speed (Rare Spares)

Extension Housing Rear (NAK Australia)

H1067

E137.206.25

Ball bearing 15 27 Ball bearing (UBC Australia) Ball bearing (NTN Toyo Bearing Co)

6206RSNR 6206NR

Ball bearing 36 Ball bearing (UBC-Australia) Ball bearing (NTN Toyo Bearing Co)

6205RS 6205NS

Speedometer cable

-

Speedometer cable assembly 48 FJ Speedo cable FE/EC (Rare Spares) Speedo cable manual FB/EK (Rare Spares) Speedometer inner core (Flexible Drive Agencies) FX/FJ/FE/FC FB/EK

7404033 7400978 7412932

K12 K20

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Bushings -

Gearshift bush kit FE-HR Holden 3 speed

GSBK001

7.8 Selector Rod Adjustment

The selector rod is adjusted by setting the distance

between the upper side of the gearshift control lever

knob and the underside of the steering wheel rim, with

the gearshift lever in the 2nd and 3rd gear neutral position

(i.e. in neutral, with the spring holding the gear lever

towards the windscreen).

Model Dimension “A”

FX and FJ Holden 2¾”

FB Holden 3¼”- 3½”

EK Holden 37/16”- 311/16”

EJ and EH Holden 3.65” - 3.85”

HD Holden 349/64”-331/32”

HR Holden 3.76”-3.96”

To make this adjustment for FX and FJ

Holdens:

1) A clearance of 1/8” minimum must

be maintained between the

shoulder on the gear shift control

shaft and the top of the gear shift

control shaft upper support

bearing to avoid interference at

this point when selecting gears.

Screwing the bearing out of the

support half a turn will increase

this clearance 1/32”.

2) With the transmission in neutral,

loosen the clamp bolt which holds

the gear shift selector control

lever and the gear shift selector

control idler lever together.

3) Hold the gear shift selector

control idler lever and the gear

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shift selector rod in the 2nd and 3rd speed position and move the gear shift lever until there is a

distance of 2¾” between the underside of the steering wheel rim and the upper side of the gear

shift lever.

4) Tighten the clamp bolt.

To make this adjustment for FE and FC Holdens:

1) Hold the selector rod trunnion with a suitable spanner, then slacken off the adjusting nuts. Note

that the trunnion must be securely held whilst doing this, otherwise the trunnion to gearshift

selector lever fibre washers will be damaged.

2) Move the gearshift control lever to the 2nd and 3rd neutral position.

3) Push down on the selector rod to ensure the transmission is set in the 2nd and 3rd neutral position.

4) Adjust the selector rod until the lower face of the gearshift lower lever

is 1/16” above the centre of the selector lever pivot.

5) Hold the trunnion in the correct position, then tighten the adjusting

nuts.

6) Use a feeler gauge to check the clearance between the lower

front jaw on the selector lever and the lower face of the

gearshift lower lever with the gearshift control lever still in the

2nd and 3rd neutral position. Remember this clearance.

7) Move the gearshift to the first and reverse neutral position and

then check the clearance between the upper rear jaw on the

selector lever and the upper face of the gearshift lower lever.

This clearance should be the same as the clearance measured

above. If they are not the same, then adjust the selector rod

adjusting nuts until the clearances are the same. Tighten the

adjusting nuts to 20 lbft torque

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8) If the adjustment process above tends to make the gearshift linkage bind, then back off the selector

rod adjusting nuts until there is ½”-1” of thread protruding above the top nut. Adjust the nuts until

the most smooth operation of the linkage is obtained, then Tighten the adjusting nuts to 20 lbft

torque.

To make this adjustment for FB-HR Holdens:

1) Hold the selector rod trunnion with a suitable spanner, then slacken off the adjusting nuts.

2) Move the gearshift control lever to the 2nd and 3rd neutral position.

3) Push down on the selector rod to ensure the transmission is set in the 2nd and 3rd neutral position.

4) Adjust the nuts until there is a distance between the upper side of the gearshift control lever knob

and the underside of the steering wheel rim as per the table above.

5) Hold the trunnion in the correct position, then tighten the adjusting nuts to 20 lbft torque.

6) Recheck that there is a distance between the upper side of the gearshift control lever knob and the

underside of the steering wheel rim.

7.9 Control Rod Adjustment

The control rod should be adjusted so that when in neutral, the gearshift control lever is at an angle of

approximately “X” above a horizontal line taken

through the centre of the steering wheel, which

means that the top of the gearshift lower lever is

at an angle of approximately “Y” above the

horizontal.

Model Dimension “X”

Dimension “Y”

FX and FJ Holdens 3” N/A

FE and FC Holden 15o 0o

FB Holden 15o 0o

EK Holden 15o 0o

EJ and EH Holden 14o 4o

HD Holden 14o 4o

HR Holden 0o N/A

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To make this adjustment for FX and FJ

Holdens:

1) Loosen the clamp bolt which holds

the gear shift control shaft lever

and the control shaft idler lever

together.

2) Hold the control shaft idler lever

and the gear shift control rod in

the neutral position, and move the

gear shift lever until the 3”

dimension shown in the diagram

to the right is obtained.

3) Tighten the clamp bolt.

4) Move the gear shift lever into the

third speed position and check

that there is clearance between

the gear shift control shaft lever

and the lower bearing support.

To make this adjustment for FE-HR Holdens:

1) With the gearshift control lever in neutral, hold the control rod trunnion with a suitable spanner

and loosen off the top lock nut.

2) Adjust the control rod nuts until the top of the gearshift lower lever is at angle “Y”. This puts the

gearshift control lever at the correct angle of “X”.

3) Tighten the control rod lock nut to 20 lbft torque while holding the trunnion in alignment.

7.10 Control and Selector Rod Dimensions

The following dimensions can be used to check whether the control and selector rods for FE-EK Holdens

are straight.

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Rod Dimension FE-EK Holden

Selector A 10.01”-10.99”

B 7.27”-7.29”

C 10.57”-10.59”

D 21.55”-21.57”

E 23.41”-23.43”

Control F 10.25”-10.27”

G 7.63”-7.65”

H 7.77”-7.79”

I 18.69”-18.71”

J 20.67”-20.69”

Note that EJ and EH Holden rods are different, as shown in the diagram below.

The diagram below shows similar check dimensions for HD and HR Holdens.

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8 Troubleshooting

Stories of crashbox abuse and failure are legend amongst early Holden

owners. There are many FB/EKs which have had to have a handbag (or

Occy strap) hung over the gear shift to stop them popping out of third gear.

Crashboxes have also coined some iconic Australian expressions:

“If you can’t find ‘em, grind ‘em.”

“If you have teeth, you have to clean them.”

“Like a champion prizefighter, it spat out a tooth and just kept going”

The following provides some guidance for troubleshooting crashboxes.

Fault Part to Check Condition to

Look For Remedy

Oil leak from the rear of the

extension housing

Smell the leaking oil

Gearbox oil is stinky. Engine oil (say from a blown engine rear main seal) is not so stinky. Grease may also be present as it gets flung off the universal joint grease nipples.

Wipe all the oil off and trace the oil leak backwards after a short drive. Make sure it really is from the gearbox, and not the engine or grease nipples.

Gearbox oil level Overfull

Check the gearbox oil is ½” below the level of the filler plug (use a bent piece of wire as a dipstick). Drain a little through the drain plug if it is overfull. Recheck.

Rear seal

Seal has hardened over time, ran dry or worn over time.

Replace the seal (can be done with gearbox in place). Replacement seals are available from both Rare Spares and NAK Australia.

Oil leak from the bellhousing

drain hole

Smell the leaking oil

Gearbox oil is stinky. Engine oil

(say from a blown engine

rear main seal) is not so stinky.

Grease may also be present as it gets flung off the

universal joint grease nipples.


Gearbox oil level Overfull.

Check the gearbox oil is ½” below the level of the filler plug (use a bent piece of wire as a dipstick). Drain a little through the drain plug if it is overfull. Recheck.

Oil slinger

Snap ring has broken or is absent, oil

slinger is loose or absent.

Remove the gearbox from the vehicle. Remove the clutch gear retainer and check the oil slinger and lock ring. Broken or absent parts will need to be scavenged from another gearbox (the main shaft lock ring supplied in the Rare Spares overhaul kit is not the same size as this lock ring).

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Clutch gear retainer drain

hole

Drain hole is blocked with

sludge or covered by

gasket.

Remove the gearbox from the vehicle. Remove the clutch gear retainer and check the drain hole. Rod out any sludge with a piece of wire. Recut the gasket to clear hole.

Clutch gear Archimedes

screw

Archimedes screw is loose in

clutch gear retainer (worn) or

the screw is blocked with

sludge.

Remove the gearbox from the vehicle. Remove the clutch gear retainer and check the Archimedes screw. Clean out any sludge. Replacement clutch gears are available from Rare Spares.

Expansion plugs

Plugs have rusted out or

become deformed.

Remove the gearbox from the vehicle. Check expansion plugs by looking in bellhousing end of gearbox. Pull out and replace leaking expansion plugs with ¾” welsh plugs.

Oil leak from bottom cover

(sump)

Smell leaking oil

Gearbox oil is stinky. Engine oil (say from a blown engine rear main seal) is not so stinky. Grease may also be present as it gets flung off the universal joint grease nipples.


Transmission cover (sump)

bolts

Loose transmission cover bolts

Tighten the transmission cover bolts. Don’t over tighten them though, as the cork transmission cover gasket will deform (and leak worse ). Around 5-6 ftlb of torque should be sufficient.

Transmission cover (sump)

gasket

The cork gasket has gone hard with age or has

split.

Replace the gasket. Replacement gaskets are available from Rare Spares as part of a gasket kit.

Drain plug

The drain plug is loose or the

copper gasket is either missing or work hardened.

Replace the copper gasket and tighten the plug. Do not over tighten as the thread will strip.

Gears hard to shift

The fault may be caused by the

shift control mechanism

(between the cabin shift lever and gearbox) or in the gearbox

itself.

Disconnect the gear shift

selector and control rods at

the gearbox and operate the transmission

levers by hand. If the levers are

easy to shift, the fault is probably

in the shift control

mechanism. If

Work through either shift control faults or gearbox internal faults below.

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the levers are hard to shift, the fault is probably in the gearbox

itself.

Gearshift linkage

Linkage is incorrectly adjusted.

Adjust gearshift linkage (selector rod and control rod adjustment) as per the Section above.

Linkage is poorly lubricated (dry or

gritty) Clean and lubricate gearshift linkage.

Gearshift lower lever sliding

surfaces

The surfaces are rough, pitted, badly worn or

poorly lubricated

Clean and lubricate the surfaces. Replace any unrecoverable items by using second hand parts.

Selector rod or control rod

The rod(s) are bent or deformed

Check the rods against the check dimensions and bend back them to shape. Replace unrecoverable items by using second hand parts.

Shifter shaft poppet ball

spring

Excessive resistance at the

start of a shift infers that the

spring is too stiff or bound up with

sludge.

Remove the set screw with an allen key and fish out the spring with a small pointed object (or a bit of bent wire). Clean and/or replace the spring.

Shifter shaft Shaft is bent

Remove the gearbox from the vehicle and disassemble. Straighten the shaft in a press or by gentle hammering. Replace unrecoverable items by using second hand parts.

Selector shaft Shaft is bent or

binding in oil seal.

Remove the gearbox from the vehicle and disassemble. Straighten the shaft in a press or by gentle hammering. Replace unrecoverable items. Replace oil seal (oil seals are available from Rare Spares and NAK Australia).

Second or third gear blockout

Synchroniser cones are scored

Remove the gearbox from the vehicle and disassemble. Replace or reface the synchronizer cones (replacements can be gotten from a 2

nd hand box… refacing cones is

possible but an expensive proposition).

Burrs on the synchronizer

gears

Remove the gearbox from the vehicle and disassemble. Deburr the gears cautiously with a fine file.

Rough cam surfaces on the

ends of the synchronizing

cone lugs

Remove the gearbox from the vehicle and disassemble. Deburr the lugs cautiously with a fine file.

Gear clash (first or reverse

gear)

Driver error (nut behind the

wheel)

Gear shift was moved into first or reverse gear too quickly after pressing clutch

pedal

Slow down the gear shift process (ya mug lair ).

Gear shift moved As there is no synchro on first, moving to first

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into first gear when vehicle is

moving.

gear with the vehicle moving is a delicate operation. It can be done, but only at very low speeds and with a lot of practice. Not for the faint hearted or heavy of hand.

Engine idle Idle is too fast Check the idle speed and reduce it to 500rpm when hot.

Clutch fork operating rod

Incorrect free travel.

Adjust the clutch fork operating rod free travel to

5/64” (0.080”).

Clutch pedal free travel.

Incorrect free travel.

Adjust the clutch pedal free travel to 1/8”.

Gear clash (second or third

gear)

Synchronising cones or cone

surfaces Cones are worn

Remove the gearbox from the vehicle and disassemble. Replace or reface the synchronizer cones. (replacements can be gotten from a 2

nd hand box… refacing cones is

possible but an expensive proposition).

Second and third speed

clutch

Bronze insert is loose

Remove the gearbox from the vehicle and disassemble. Replace the second and third speed clutch (replacements can be gotten from a 2

nd hand box or from Status

Engineering).

Synchroniser energizing

springs

Weak or broken springs.

Remove the gearbox from the vehicle and disassemble. Replace the synchronizer springs (these are available from Rare Spares or Status Engineering).

Clutch plate Dragging Adjust the clutch fork operating rod free travel

to 6/64” (0.080”). Adjust the clutch pedal free

travel to 1/8”.

Gearbox noisy in neutral

Gearbox oil level Underfull Check the gearbox oil is ½” below the level of the filler plug (use a bent piece of wire as a dipstick). Topup as required. Recheck.

Push in and release the

clutch with the engine running and the vehicle

in neutral.

Change in noise. With the engine

running, gearbox in neutral and

the clutch engaged (foot off

the pedal), the following parts are spinning:

Clutch gear and ball bearing,

counter gear and needle bearings,

reverse idler gear and needle bearings, second

speed gear, main shaft pilot bearing. When

the clutch is released (foot on

the pedal) the above parts are

no longer loaded.

Remove the gearbox from the vehicle and disassemble. Examine the parts listed to the left.

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Constant clicking noise

Bearing or gear nicked or metal

shaving embedded.

Noise when shifting out of first or reverse

gears

Noise when shifting out of first or reverse

gears very slowly

This is a normal noise, and occurs just as the gears engage. It is due to the gear pointing required for easy engagement.

Abnormal noise during a normal

speed shift

Incorrect clutch fork operating rod free travel.

Adjust the clutch fork operating rod free travel to

5/64” (0.080”).

Incorrect clutch pedal free travel.

Adjust the clutch pedal free travel to 1/8”.

Abnormal noise when

disengaging both first and reverse gears

whilst the vehicle is still in

motion.

Damage to the pointing on the

engaging side of the teeth of the first and reverse

sliding gear.

Remove the gearbox from the vehicle and disassemble. Replace the first and reverse sliding gear (replacements can be gotten from a 2

nd hand box).

Abnormal noise when

disengaging only reverse gear

whilst the vehicle is still in

motion.

Damage to the pointing on the

engaging side of the reverse idler

gear.

Remove the gearbox from the vehicle and disassemble. Replace the reverse idler gear (replacements can be gotten from a 2

nd hand

box).

Abnormal noise when

disengaging only first gear whilst

the vehicle is still in motion.

Damage to pointing on the

engaging side of the teeth of the counter gear.

Remove the gearbox from the vehicle and disassemble. Replace the counter gear (replacements can be gotten from a 2

nd hand

box).

Gearbox jumps out of gear

Gearshift linkage Gearshift linkage is not adjusted

correctly.

Adjust gearshift linkage (selector rod and control rod adjustment) as per the Section above.

Place vehicle in gear that is jumping out.

Raise vehicle on stands and rock

the selector lever (on the side of the

gearbox) by hand, feeling for

any slop.

Shifter lock balls do not have full engagement in the notches of

the shifter shaft.

Using a 5/16” allen key, remove the offending

shifter shaft lock spring and ball lock screw (hint: first and reverse is on the passenger side of the car, and second and third is on the driver’s side). Pick the spring and ball out with a “magnet on a stick” tool. Check that the spring free length is approximately 1

1/8”. Clean

up the spring and ball in some kerosene, and use a pipe cleaner to clean any gunk out of the channel in the gearbox casing. Reassemble. If slop is still present, it may be necessary to swap for another spring, or to use a collet/stack of washers on top of the spring.

Gearbox jumps out of third speed only.

Misalignment between the

gearbox

Remove gearbox and examine the locating dowels in the end of the crankcase. The dowel pins should stick out enough to engage by

5/16”

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bellhousing and the engine crankcase.

in the gearbox. Ensure gearbox mounting bolts are tightened in a cross-fashion.

Handbag missing from

shift lever.

Replace handbag. Male drivers may not be comfortable driving with a handbag in place with no female passenger. If so, replace handbag with Occy strap.

-

Bearings or bushings are

loose, main shaft sliding sleeve is

loose, worn teeth on mating gears.

Remove the gearbox from the vehicle and disassemble. Replace the defective parts (replacements can be gotten from a 2

nd hand

box).

Speedometer doesn’t work or

is jumpy

Speedometer cable routing

under the vehicle.

Overtight (short radius) bends or kinks in the cable

Reroute cable for gentle bends.

Cable connections behind the

speedometer instrument and at the crashbox

Undertight (loose) cable end

fittings Retighten the fittings.

Disconnect speedometer

cable from rear of speedometer instrument by reaching up behind dash

(beware of the wiring!). Have a

passenger examine the

cable end whilst going for short

drive.

The inner cable snapped (cable

not spinning during test

drive). Unscrew the speedometer cable from both speedometer

instrument and gearbox and pull out inner cable to see if it is in two

pieces.

Replace the inner cable. The inner cable alone is available from Flexible Drive Agencies as part number K12 for FX-FC Holdens and part number K20 for FB/EK Holdens. The inner+outer cable is available from Rare Spares as a complete unit.

The square drive fitting at gearbox

has been rounded out

(cable not seen to be spinning).

Unscrew the speedometer cable from the gearbox and examine the square-drive fitting end.

Unbolt and the replace speedometer driven gear assembly (replacements can be gotten from a 2

nd hand box).

Underlubricated inner cable.

Unscrew the speedometer cable from both the speedometer instrument and the gearbox and pull out the inner cable. Clean both the inner cable and the inside of the outer cable in some kero/WD40. Grease the bottom

2/3 of the

inner cable lightly with lithium grease and

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reassemble (do not grease top 1/3 of cable, or

grease will be driven up into the speedometer instrument under load).

Cable not seen to be spinning

and above causes ruled out.

The speedometer

main shaft ball has become

dislodged, and the speedometer

drive gear is spinning on the main drive shaft

Remove the gearbox rear extension housing. Remove the main shaft lock ring behind the speedometer drive gear and remove the gear. Replace the main shaft lock ball. Fish around in the bottom of the casing rear compartment and extension housing with a magnet to find the missing lock ball.

Disconnect speedometer cable from the gearbox fitting.

Have passenger examine

speedometer instrument while you repeatedly twirl the end of the inner cable between thumb and forefinger.

The speedometer instrument is

faulty (speedometer

does not “jump” and start to read as inner cable is

twirled).

Remove and overhaul the speedometer instrument.

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9 Floor Mounted Shifters

9.1 Background

A popular modification for early Holdens is to change from the original column shifter (three-on-the-tree)

to a floor shift (three on the floor). Whilst gear shifting may be marginally faster, there is undoubtedly a

significant cool factor in a floor shift – an Impala shifter can make you look like you have four on the floor,

eight on the roof and nine on the doors.

The following three images are taken from Australian Hot Rod

magazine, November

1966.

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There are some downsides to floor mounted shifters though:

a) The front bench seat middle seating position can leave passengers trying to fight the gearshift,

b) The shifters are often mounted offset to the driver’s side and can leave the driver trying to fight the

gearshift with their left leg,

c) Care needs to be taken that the front bench seat does not clash with the shifter lever,

d) A permanent hole needs to be cut in the floor to accommodate the shifter lever,

e) Some floor shifters put additional loading on the first and reverse shifter lever cam and second and

third shifter lever cam. This can cause the shifter to snap the cams by trying to push past the

engaged gear position. A typical grey motor crashbox Speco-Thomas floor shifter increases the

torque applied to the shifter levers cams by 40%, whilst the respective Impala shifter reduces torque

by 25%,

f) Loose bolts, dirt or tired wave washers can make the floor shifts either very sloppy or overly tight,

leading to bad shifting or jamming of the shifter,

g) Floor shifters are no longer made for early Holdens. This means that you will need to source one

from a swapmeet, eBay or make one yourself. Sadly, many shifters have been abused over the

years, with bolts replaced with incorrect types, linkages lost or wave washers missing. This makes it

hard enough to determine how your shifter should work. It gets even tougher when people can’t

identify the shifter… many eBay listings have the wrong gearbox type assigned to a given shifter. It

can be pretty frustrating outlaying your money only to find the shifter doesn’t fit. The information

listed below has been put together to try to reduce some of the above hassles.

Early Holden floor shifters are typically one of three designs:

a) a side shifter, where the shifter is mounted in line with the gearbox shift levers (away from the

gearbox centerline and normally closer to the drivers leg),

b) a centre shifter, where the shifter is mounted on the gearbox centerline and levers are used to reach

the gearbox shift linkages, or

c) a remote shifter, where a cable or rod drive allows the shifter to be mounted (almost) anywhere.

When connecting to the gearbox, there are two ways of attaching the selector lever – underslung or

overslung (see diagrams below).

Most shifters are underslung. Underslinging or overslinging the gearbox changes the shift pattern, as

discussed below.

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9.2 Adjusting (Tuning) a Floor Shifter

An old, dirty, rusty, untuned floor shifter can be so tight that you have to fight the stick to shift gears… or

so sloppy that it is like stirring a bowl of porridge. At worst, they can allow you to select two different gears

at once. This locks the gearbox up solid, and is like throwing on the handbrake… not so funny at freeway

speeds. The following notes provide some guidance for tuning up a floor shifter.

a) Pull the shifter apart and clean it up with some kero. This will wash out the old hard grease and any

dirt that has accumulated over the last half century.

b) Any parts that need to turn (pivot points) or slide should be lubricated up with some chassis grease

(the same stuff that you put into kingpins and balljoints). Wheel bearing grease will do in a pinch, but is

a little thick. Do not overgrease the shifter… excess grease will attract dirt, which can jam the shifter.

c) Most pivot points are adjusted on one of three ways. In each case, the aim is that the bolt should be

fully tight, whilst “Part A” and “Part B” are free to pivot.

The first method uses a shouldered bolt to join together

Part A and Part B (see diagram to the right). The bolt

bottoms out when fully tightened, leaving Part A and

Part B loosely connected. The “looseness” is removed

by installing a wave washer. The wave washer crushes

slightly, providing some tension. Quite often, the wave

washer is too thin to provide enough tension. In this

case, a tuning washer is placed under the wave washer

to take up some of the gap. The tuning washer

thickness can then be chosen so that the wave washer

crushes enough to provide good tension, but is not

totally flat. If the tuning washers you have are a little

thick, they can be filed down thinner with a fine file.

Another technique to adjust the tension is to replace the

wave washer with a different type, though this is

normally more difficult as wave washers are nowhere

near as common as normal washers.

The second method utilizes a lock nut to hold the bolt, rather

than bottoming out the bolt shoulder (see image to the right).

This method is tuned in the same way as the first method,

though often the bolt can be threaded in sufficiently that

tuning washers are not necessary.

The third method is used when neither of Part A or Part B is

threaded. This method uses a nylock nut (or locktite) to hold

the bolt. Note that factory joints are not made like this, though

it is a handy technique when the original factory threads have

been badly damaged, or when building linkages from scratch.

This method is tuned in the same way as the first method,

though often the bolt can be threaded in sufficiently that

tuning washers are not necessary.

d) Gear knobs come in a variety of types, each with its own thread.

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Company Typical shift knob thread sizes

Speco (wooden knob, chromed metal insert top with red paint) 3/8”-16 UNC

Impala (white knob with shift pattern engraved) ½”-20 UNF

B&M (most automatic) ½”-20 UNF

Gennie Shifter (automatic) 5/16”-18 UNC

Gennie Shifter Lo-Dapt 3/8”-16 UNC

Hurst Pro-Matic (before 1987), Vertical Gate (before 1987), V-Matic (before 1987)

½”-13 UNC

Hurst aluminum sticks, Quarter Stick & Quarter Stick 2 7/16”-20 UNF

Hurst Comp/Plus (early), Indy 3 Speed, Indy Matic 1, Indy Pick Up Truck, Indy SSA

3/8”-24 UNF

Hurst Auto/Stick1, Auto/Stick3, Billet/Plus, Chrome replacement sticks, Comp/Plus late) & OEM, Dual/Gate2, Indy Qualifier, Pro-

Matic2 (since 1987), Super Shifter 3, V-Gate (since 1987), V-Matic 2 (since 1987)

3/8”-16 UNC

Lokar 5/16”-20 UN or

3/8”-16 UNC

Some later gear knobs have a soft plastic “multifit” insert, and a grub screw that locks them to the

shifter. This is a really poor design, guaranteed to come loose over time, and/or chew the shift lever

thread to bits. Early shift knobs do not have a grub screw. This can be very frustrating if the knob

“tightens up” with

the shift pattern

upside down.

One trick to

counter this is to

use a lock nut

under the shift

knob – see

photos to the

right.

Note that new bush kits for Speco shifter linkages are available (via

eBay) from Westworld Spares (phone 0431515630). The kits include

bushes, wave washers, flat washers and split pins, together with a sheet

with some general guidelines to make installation easier. The plastic

bushes are hand turned using extruded oil impregnated plastic with an

operating range of -40ºC – 130ºC and a melting point of 250ºC. Whilst

greasing during initial assembly is required, little subsequent greasing is

likely to be needed.

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9.3 Grey Motor Crashbox H-Pattern Shifters – The Wobbly Sticks

Holden grey motor crashboxes were commonly fitted with accessory floor shifters in a side shifter,

underslung H-pattern. The “wobbly sticks” were made by a number of manufacturers, as per below.

9.3.1 Speco-Thomas Speedshift

Speco-Thomas (often referred to as Speco)

manufactured wobbly sticks for both the grey

motor and red motor crashboxes under the brand

name of “Speedshift” – see image to the right.

The grey motor Speedshift (part number 611470)

has a round bar handle, as per the photos below.

Fitting instructions for the grey motor Speedshift are shown below:

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The shifter shift pattern is as follows:

a) Neutral, centre position.

b) 1st gear – pull to the left and backwards from neutral. Shifter lever on gearbox pushes in

and moves clockwise.

c) 2nd

gear – push to the right and forwards from neutral. Shifter lever on gearbox pulls out

and moves anticlockwise.

d) 3rd

gear – push to the right and backwards from neutral. Shifter lever on gearbox pulls

out and moves clockwise.

e) Reverse – push to the left and forwards from neutral. Shifter lever on gearbox pushes in

and moves anticlockwise.

The shifter has a helper spring which forces the shifter to the 2/3 side of the H-pattern gate i.e. to move

from neutral into 1st or Reverse gear, you need to fight the spring, and moving from 1

st to 2

nd gear the

spring helps you across the gate. This is identical to the action of the spring in the original FB/EK Holden

gearshift.

The red motor Speedshift was manufactured as parts 611471 for EJ and EH Holdens, and 61472 for HR-

HK Holdens. The shifter gear pattern is as follows:


b) 1st gear – pull to the left and forwards from neutral. Front lever on gearbox moves

clockwise, rear lever on gearbox moves anticlockwise.

c) 2nd

gear – push to the right and backwards from neutral. Front lever on gearbox

moves anticlockwise, rear lever on gearbox moves clockwise.

d) 3rd

gear – push to the right and forwards from neutral. Front lever on gearbox moves

clockwise, rear lever on gearbox moves clockwise.

e) Reverse – push to the left and backwards from neutral. Front lever on gearbox moves

anticlockwise, rear lever on gearbox moves anticlockwise.

The shifter has a helper spring which forces the shifter to the 2/3 side of the H-pattern gate i.e. to move

from neutral into 1st or Reverse gear, you need to fight the spring, and moving from 1

st to 2

nd gear the

spring helps you across the gate.

3

R 2

1

N

2

1 3

R

N

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Fitting instructions for the red motor Speedshift are given below.

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9.3.2 Dor

The Dor grey motor wobbly stick is very similar in design and construction to the Speco shifter – see

photos below.

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9.3.3 Cee-Gee Shifter

The Cee-Gee Shifter is depicted in the article shown to the right (page 60 of a Hot

Up Guide), though not described other than the following text:

“The Cee-Gee floor shift conversion for Holden comes from Birchwood Sports Cars

in Melbourne. Sydney Speed Shop also stocks them”.

Note that Cee Gee Holdings was formed by Garth Campbell (the “Cee” comes from

“Campbell”) and Graham Withers(the “Gee” comes from Graham)… and later

became Impala Performance Products (see Impala shifter information below).

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9.3.4 Unknown Wobbly Sticks

Grey motor wobbly sticks with flat handles similar to those shown below show up from time to time, often

labeled as Speco shifters. I have no evidence to suggest that these are actual Speco products.

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9.3.5 Operation

The grey motor wobbly stick shifter works without the use of the selector shaft control lever (remember

that the purpose of this lever is only to move the selector shaft in and out). The shifter works solely and

directly on the selector lever – moving it both in/out and turning it clockwise/anticlockwise as the shifter is

moved through the H pattern. The shifter is mounted

to the bottom of the gearbox with a piece of angle

iron. The angle iron provides two pivot points (the

selector pivot point and the shifter pivot point in the

diagram below).

When the shifter is moved left/right, the shifter pivots

about the selector pivot point (point d in the diagram

to the right). When the shifter handle (point a) is

pushed to the right (for second and third gears,

yellow arrows in the diagram to the right), the shifter

lever (and attached selector shaft) are pulled out of

the casing (point e). When the shifter is pushed to

the left (for first and reverse gears, blue arrows in

the diagram to the right), the selector lever (and

attached selector shaft) are pushed in to the casing.

When the shifter is moved forwards/backwards, the

shifter pivots about the shifter pivot points. When the

shifter is pulled backwards (for first and third gears,

green arrows), the shifter lever moves to the front of

the car (point b) and moves clockwise (point c).

When the shifter is pushed forwards (for second and

reverse gears, red arrows), the shifter lever moves

to the rear of the car and moves anticlockwise.

9.3.6 Building Your Own Wobbly Stick

When building your own wobbly stick, one of the first decisions to make is whether to run an underslung

or an overslung shifter.

The underslung shifter is approximately 2¼” across the gate, with a 3” throw from neutral to a gear.

Overslinging gives approximately ¾” longer throw.

The shift pattern changes between overslinging and

underslinging, as shown in the image to the right.

The selector pivot that must be built is different depending on whether

an underslung or overslung setup is being used. The item on the left is

used for overslung shifters, whilst the item on the right is used for

underslung shifters.

2

1 3

R

N

underslung

3

R 2

1

N

overslung

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The shifter lever must be built differently depending on

whether an underslung or an overslung setup is being used.

The underslung shifter uses the factory grey motor crashbox

shifter lever, whilst a new shifter lever must be fabricated

when overslinging. The image to the right shows the

overslung shifter lever – this can be made somewhat neater

using some steel plate and a UNC bolt (see dimension

drawing below).

An addition decision needs to be made whether to

run a “standard” shifter or the “closer” version. The

“standard” shifter is offset approximately 6” to the

driver’s side of the centerline of the vehicle (in line

with the choke knob). The “closer” version is only

offset 5” (i.e. 1” closer to the centerline). Whilst the

closer version is less likely to interfere with the

drivers leg, the linkage angle is not as neat, leading

to longer throws. The closer version requires a

unique shifter lever to be made (see image to the right), and a 1” shorter angle iron bracket (see

dimension drawing below).

The drawing below gives the dimensions for construction of a wobbly stick shifter for the grey motor

crashbox.

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At 2012 steel prices, the total cost for materials is around $15 (plus a little cutting, drilling and welding

time).

Description Material

Angle iron bracket 30mmx30mmx3mm angle iron

Bolts, washers, nuts and wavewashers 3/8”-16UNCx1¼”, nyloc nut

Flat bar pieces 20mmx5mm flatbar

Gear stick shaft 16mm (5/8”) rod

The image above shows parts for standard, close, underslung and overslung shifters.

Note that the angle iron bracket bolts to the bottom of the transmission cover. The pressed-steel

transmission cover has a lip that runs around its edge, with the angle iron bracket resting on the lip. As

the lip provides very little support, the bracket can twist, leading to a sloppy feel. The lip also prevents the

transmission cover bolts from holding the cork seal tightly in place, and can lead to some leaks. There are

a number of methods to address this issue:

a) Replace the transmission cover with a piece of heavier gauge flat steel, and weld the angle iron to it.

This greatly reduces shifter slop.

b) Install a small piece of flat bar between the angle iron

bracket and the transmission cover as per the image to

the right.

c) Use three thick washers as spacers between the angle iron bracket and the transmission cover. This

approach was used by both Dor and Speco, albeit by “pressing” the washers into the angle iron (see

photos below)

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Note that the top of the gear stick will need to be threaded to suit the chosen shift knob. The 16mm (5/8”)

bar should be able to be die cut to 5/8”-11UNC or

5/8”-18UNF (¾”-10UNC or ¾”-16UNF at a pinch but will

be sloppy thread), though smaller threads will require the top of the gear stick to be reduced in diameter

before die-cutting. An easier way is to find a bolt that fits your shift knob, and weld it to the top of the gear

stick. The table below gives some indicator thread sizes, though caution is advised – double check the

actual thread before going crazy with the welder or tap and die set. I like to use a 3/8”-16UNC bolt for two

reasons. Firstly, it’s the same bolt as all the others in the shifter (saves me buying more bolts ).

Secondly, it fits the Speco gear knobs.

Company Typical shift knob thread sizes

Speco (wooden knob, chromed metal insert top with red paint) 3/8”-16 UNC

Impala (white knob with shift pattern engraved) ½”-20 UNF

B&M (most automatic) ½”-20 UNF

Gennie Shifter (automatic) 5/16”-18 UNC

Gennie Shifter Lo-Dapt 3/8”-16 UNC

Hurst Pro-Matic (before 1987), Vertical Gate (before 1987), V-Matic (before 1987) ½”-13 UNC

Hurst aluminum sticks, Quarter Stick & Quarter Stick 2 7/16”-20 UNF

Hurst Comp/Plus (early), Indy 3 Speed, Indy Matic 1, Indy Pick Up Truck, Indy SSA

3/8”-24 UNF

Hurst Auto/Stick1, Auto/Stick3, Billet/Plus, Chrome replacement sticks, Comp/Plus late) & OEM, Dual/Gate2, Indy Qualifier, Pro-Matic2 (since 1987),

Super Shifter 3, V-Gate (since 1987), V-Matic 2 (since 1987)

3/8”-16 UNC

Lokar 5/16”-20 UN or

3/8”-

16 UNC

Note that the length of the shifter should be left a little long, and cut to size to suit the specific vehicle after

trial fitting. As a very-rough guide for an FB/EK Holden sedan:

Centre of selector to top of seat = 1’2½”

Centre of selector to centerline of dash knobs = 1’9½”

Centre of selector to bottom of rear view mirror (Ed Roth, baby!) = 3’1½”

Note that it is possible to bend the gear stick into an “S” shape to help clear the bench seat. This should

be avoided wherever possible, as the “S” shape can cause the shifter to twist when moving side-to-side

across the gate.

A spring is required to connect to the

selector lever and provide assistance

across the gate. A very stiff spring is

required due to the lack of leverage –

some trial and error will be required.

It is also possible to omit the spring

entirely. The standard selector lever

tends to foul on the shifter lever – it

may be necessary to bend it as per

the left item in the image to the right.

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The image below shows the standard overslung shifter (I have omitted the selector lever and spring in the

three images below for clarity).

The image below shows the standard underslung shifter.

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The image below shows the close version shifter.

The image to the right shows the selector lever

and spring. Note that the spring shown is

somewhat light - due to the short fulcrum

lengths, the spring needs to be pretty hefty to

give any real assistance across the gate.

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9.3.7 Installation

The shifter may be installed as follows:

1. Working under the vehicle, disconnect the gearbox selector rod and control rod from the gearbox.

Disconnect the steering column ends to allow the rods to be removed.

2. This leaves the (now redundant) gear lever still hanging off the

steering column honeypot inside the car. It is OK to leave this

in place, though if a neater cabin is desired, punch out the

control lever pivot pin (shown in red in the FE/FC Holden

diagram to the right… similar position for FB/EK Holdens) in

the honeypot. This will allow you to pull out the lever, and blank

off the hole in the honeypot with a rubber grommet.

3. Remove both the

shifter lever and

selector shaft

control lever from

the gearbox.

4. From below, centre-punch the floor 1” out and 1” to the rear from the selector arm bolt.

5. Roll back the front floor mat or carpet and underlay. Slide the front bench seat fully backwards.

6. Working from inside the vehicle, mark out a hole approximately 2” in diameter using the centre-punch

mark as a centre. Cut out the hole with a hole saw or tin snips. Note that an approximate template for

marking the hole is given below.

7. Remove the three rear-most bolts (7/16” AF) from the

transmission cover (gearbox sump).

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8. Bolt the angle iron bracket to the bottom of the gearbox by

reusing the three 7/16” AF bolts. If using spacer washers,

ensure these are fitted (see discussion above).

9. Grease and assemble the linkages. Tighten the nylock nuts up to remove any slack, but not so tight

that the wave washers are compressed.

10. Test the shifter moving side-to-side. Tighten the selector pivot adjustment nut until the change is

smooth and easy with just enough slack to move sideways into all positions.

11. Test the shifter moving front-to-back. Tighten the shifter front and rear pivot point bolts and until the

change is smooth and easy with just enough slack to move forwards/backwards into all positions.

12. Fit selector shaft control lever spring (if using it) from the selector shaft control lever (the lower lever on

the gearbox) to the spring hole in the bracket. The selector shaft control lever is now redundant (not

operated by the floor shifter).

13. Select a boot to seal the floor opening. A number of boots are available – see table below.

Item Part

Number Maximum floorpan

hole size Image

Speco-Thomas Universal gear shift boot

621509 3½” x 4½”

Speco-Thomas Nissan gear shift boot

621511 3” x 5½”

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Speco-Thomas Centreshift gear shift

boot 621514 3½” x 4”

Speco-Thomas Euro gear shift boot

621515 3½” x 5¼”

Speco-Thomas Mega boot

621516 (also sold as Spectre

6284)

8” x 9”

Spectre Performance

6283 6.5”x5.5”

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Spectre Performance 6285 5.25”x4”

14. Place the gear shift in neutral. Fit the rubber shifter boot over the end of the shifter and allow it to

naturally centre over the shifter.

15. Fit the metal boot frame over the rubber shifter boot and mark the centre of the screw holes.

16. Remove the metal boot frame and rubber boot. Centrepunch and pilot drill the screw holes. Work

the self tapping screws into the holes then remove them.

17. Run a thick bead of mastic around the top side edge of the floorpan hole. This will glue the carpet

to the floorpan, and help prevent water from traveling (from under the car) up between the carpet

and floorpan.

18. Roll back the floor mat or carpet onto the floorpan (and the sticky mastic).

19. Refit the rubber boot and metal boot frame and screw down to the floorpan.

20. Fit a shifter

knob lock nut

to the top of

the shifter,

and then fit

the shifter

knob. Hold the

shifter knob in

the desired

location and

tighten the

lock nut.

21. Check that the shifter mechanism is free to select all gears and not being caught on the carpet,

boot or floorpan.

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9.4 Impala Shifter

9.4.1 Background

Impala shifters, were designed and manufactured by an Australian

company - Impala Performance Products (originally named Cee Gee

Holdings). The company was started by Garth Campbell and Graham

Withers (Australian Top Fuel Champion in 1966, 1967 and 1968

driving a 392ci blown Hemi slingshot front engine dragster) in 1965.

Graham later sold his shares in the company to Garth. The company

started out production in Garth’s garage. After choosing a name for

the company, a logo was needed… and found by starting with a

rubbing off an old Chev badge. The image above right is the logo

engraved on Impala shift boot mounting plates, whilst the circular

image to the right is the trademarked Impala logo. Despite the name

(and the similar logo), Impala shifters have very little to do with

Chevy Impalas.

Impala shifters were made for a wide variety of vehicles, many of

which were locally produced (for example early Holdens – see

advertisement below… OFP Engineering was run by Geoff Dellow, of Dellow Conversions fame). Impala

shifters were available in both inline and H-patterns, depending on the model. Impala Performance

Products also manufactured shift knobs, identifiable by their engraved inserts.

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Impala shifters were provided with a boot and

mounting plate. The rubber boot top is shaped to fit

the flat shifter handle, and has the word IMPALA

cast into the rubber. The chrome plated mounting

plate has the Impala logo engraved into it.

Note that Impala shifters were numbered – the 700 series were for Holden, 600 series for Ford, and 500

series for Chrysler (including Valiant and Simca).

Pictured below are stickers sold with Impala shifters.

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9.4.2 Grey Motor (FX-EK Holden) 3-speed crashbox (model 702)

The grey motor crashbox Impala shifter is an inline shifter. It is rather complex when compared to the

wobbly stick shifters offered by Dor and Speco, which may be part of the Impala shifter’s reputation for

jamming (… it’s also a hell of a lot cooler than the Speco ). The grey motor crashbox Impala shifter has

the model number 702 stamped into it, followed by a four-digit serial number (for example 702-1568, or

702-6459). Interestingly, whilst the shift pattern is inline, the handle must move left/right across the gate

slightly to allow the gearbox shifter shaft to move inwards and outwards. To accomplish this, the shifter

must be adjusted to give enough slop that the shifter shaft can move 7/32 - ¼ ”.

The grey motor crashbox Impala shifter gear pattern is as follows:


b) 1st gear - push down and forward from neutral.

c) 2nd

gear - pull back from 1st gear, pop up through neutral and then pull

back further.

d) 3rd

gear - push forward from 2nd

gear, straight through neutral.

e) Reverse - from neutral, push down and pull back.

When the shifter is popped up (for second and third gears), the selector shaft control lever moves

clockwise (towards the rear of the vehicle). When the shifter is pushed down (for first and reverse gears),

the selector shaft control lever moves anticlockwise (towards the front of the vehicle). When the shifter is

pushed forwards (for first and third gears), the shifter lever moves clockwise (towards the front of the

vehicle). When the shifter is pulled backwards (for second and reverse gears), the shifter lever moves

anticlockwise (towards the rear of the vehicle).

A template for installing the grey motor Impala shifter is given below:

up R

3

2

N

s 1

N

front of car

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9.4.3 Red Motor (EJ-HK Holden) 3-speed crashbox (model 701)

The model 701 red motor crashbox Impala shifter is an inline-pattern shifter. It is stamped 701 on the

mounting bracket, followed by a four-digit serial number (for example 701-3342, or 701-6995). I have also

owned a shifter with H553 stamped into it which was identical to the 701-stamped shifters albeit with a

slightly heavier mounting bracket.

The red motor crashbox Impala straight-line shifter gear pattern is as follows:


b) 1st gear - push down and forward from neutral. Rear lever on gearbox

moves anticlockwise, front lever moves clockwise.

c) 2nd

gear - pull back from 1st gear, pop up through neutral and then pull

back further. Rear lever on gearbox moves clockwise, front lever moves

anticlockwise.

d) 3rd

gear - push forward from 2nd

gear, straight through neutral. Rear lever

on gearbox moves clockwise, front lever moves clockwise.

e) Reverse - from neutral, push down and pull back. Rear lever on gearbox

moves anticlockwise, front lever moves anticlockwise.

up R

3

2

N

1

N

front of car

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9.4.4 HK-HZ+LC-LX Torana Aussie 3-speed all-syncro gearbox H-pattern (model 712)

The model 712 Aussie 3-speed Impala shifter is a H-pattern shifter. It is stamped 712 on the mounting

bracket, whilst the main housing is stamped Impala Professional Shifter, with the Impala logo and serial

number (for example 4128, 4479 and 2841).

The Impala Aussie 3-speed H-pattern shifter gear pattern is as follows:


b) 1st gear – pull to the left and forwards from neutral. Front lever on gearbox remains in

neutral position, rear lever on gearbox moves clockwise.

c) 2nd

gear – push to the right and backwards from neutral. Front lever on gearbox

moves anticlockwise, rear lever on gearbox returns to neutral position.

d) 3rd

gear – push to the right and forwards from neutral. Front lever on gearbox moves

clockwise, rear lever on gearbox remains in neutral position.

e) Reverse – push to the left and backwards from neutral. Front lever on gearbox

remains in neutral position, rear lever on gearbox moves anticlockwise.

3

R 2

1

N

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9.4.5 HK-HZ+LC-LX Torana Aussie 3-speed all-syncro gearbox inline-pattern (model 708)

The model 708 Aussie 3-speed Impala shifter is an inline-pattern shifter. It is stamped 708 on the

mounting bracket together with a serial number (for example 1731). The main housing plate is not

stamped.

The Aussie 3 speed Impala straight-line shifter gear pattern is as follows:


b) 1st gear – push down from neutral and push forwards. Rear lever on

gearbox moves clockwise, front lever moves remains in neutral position.

c) 2nd

gear – pull back from 1st gear, pop up through neutral and then pull

back further. Rear lever on gearbox returns to neutral position, front

lever moves anticlockwise.

d) 3rd

gear – push forward from 2nd

gear, straight through neutral. Rear

lever on gearbox returns to neutral position, front lever moves clockwise.

e) Reverse - from neutral, push down and pull backwards. Rear lever on gearbox moves anticlockwise,

front lever remains in neutral position.

The shifter has a helper spring which forces the shifter to the 2/3 side of the inline pattern gate i.e. to

move from neutral into 1st or Reverse gear, you need to fight the spring, and moving from 1

st to 2

nd gear

the spring helps you across the gate.

up R

3

3

2

N

1

N

front of car

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9.4.6 Aussie 4-speed (model 713)

The shifter has the Impala logo together with "Impala Professional shifter" and a serial number (for

example 5310) stamped on the front cover. The bracket has the model number 713 stamped on it. This

shifter can work with a bench seat in a HQ-WB commercial vehicle if you have the seat back but it was

designed for bucket seat vehicles.

The Aussie 4 speed Impala H-pattern shifter gear pattern is as follows:

Neutral, centre position.

a) 1st gear – pull left from neutral and push forwards. Rear lever on gearbox moves

clockwise, front lever moves remains in neutral position.

b) 2nd

gear – pull back from 1st gear. Rear lever on gearbox moves anticlockwise,

front lever remains in neutral position.

c) 3rd

gear – push forward from 2nd

gear, across the gate through neutral and

forward again. Rear lever on gearbox returns to neutral position, front lever

moves clockwise.

d) 4th gear – pull back from 3

rd gear. Rear lever on gearbox remains in neutral position, front lever

moves anticlockwise.

e) Reverse - from neutral, pull up on the separate reverse lever knob. Lever on gearbox extension

housing lifts upwards, front lever and rear levers on gearbox remain in neutral position.

Note that the above shift pattern assumes the shifter is underslung. If the shifter is

overslung, the shift pattern changes to that shown to the right.

3

2 4

1

N R pull up

4

1 3

2

N R pull up

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9.4.7 Ford Toploader 3-speed all synchro gearbox

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9.4.8 Ford Zephyr Mark III 4-speed

The inline-pattern shifter shown below was fitted to a Mark II Ford Zephyr 4-speed gearbox. Note that

Impala also constructed shifters for the 3-speed gearboxes fitted to Mark I and Mark II Zephyrs (see

below)..

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9.4.9 Ford Zephyr 3-speed (model 601)

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9.4.10 Ford 1952-1957 Customline (model 600)

The inline-pattern shifter shown in the images below was fitted to a 1955 Customline, and will also suit

early F100's fitted with car type gearboxes with left hand shift plate.

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9.4.11 Ford Falcon XK-XP (model 602)

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9.4.12 Ford Customline “Star” (model 603)

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9.4.13 Valiant AP5 AP6 VC (and perhaps VF VG) inline-pattern (model 501)

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9.4.14 Simca Oronde (model 502)

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9.5 Eddie Thomas H-Pattern Shifters

Eddie Thomas was one of the founding

fathers of the Speco-Thomas brand. Eddie, a speedway driver and drag

racer, started grinding camshafts in his

home garage. In 1956 Eddie bought a

South Australian business — Bob

William’s Speed Equipment Company,

known as Speco. In 1968, Brian

Sampson bought Eddie Thomas Speed

Shop Pty Ltd, and changed the name to

Speco Thomas in 1969. Brian was the

founder of Motor Improvements, a

specialist engine reconditioner and the

source of Speco Blueprint camshafts.

Eddie produced a H-pattern shifter

mechanism, which he registered as “a

mechanical linkage” under Registered

Design 54365 on the 15th of April 1969,

using the name “Eddie Thompson

Speed Shop Pty Ltd” as the design

owner. The design number is stamped

on the front of the shifter casings.

Whilst similar to (and often confused

with) Impala shifters, the Eddie Thomas

shifters have some notable differences

to the Impala shifters:

The Eddie Thomas shifters have a

readily removable (bolt-on) flat

aluminum handle, whereas the

Impala shifters have a chromed steel

handle which is an integral part of the shifter assembly,

The Eddie Thomas shifters have adjustable shift

change stops, which prevent “overshifting”.

The advertisement shown the right was published in a

Dynamic Auto Accessories Catalogue No. 1, and appears

to shows Eddie Thomas shifters alongside Thomas part

numbers. The catalogue is not dated, but is in decimal

currency and notes the HK Holden (post-January 1968).

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9.5.1 Aussie 3-speed (Model ML113)

The photos below show the ML113 shifter to suit the Aussie 3 speed transmission.

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The shift pattern of the Eddie Thomas Aussie 3-speed shifter is as follows:

1st: Pull to the left and backwards. Rear lever of gearbox moves clockwise. Front lever of gearbox

remains in neutral position.

2nd

: Push forwards to neutral from first, across to the right and forward again. Front lever

of gearbox moves anticlockwise. Rear lever returns to neutral position.

3rd

: Pull back from second. Front lever of gearbox clockwise. Rear lever remains in

neutral position.

Reverse: From neutral, pull to the left and forwards. Rear lever of gearbox moves anticlockwise. Front

lever remains in neutral position.



st to 2

nd gear


Note that the above shift pattern assumes that the Eddie Thomas shifter is set up in an overslung

manner, with the short linkage rod located on the driver’s side shifter lever. As can be seen from the

photos above, there are many ways to connect this shifter. I have yet to find some original instructions.

2

3

1 3

R

N

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9.5.2 Borg Warner 3-speed Valiant AP5, AP6 (Model ML109)

The photo below shows the ML109 shifter fitted to a Valiant Borg Warner 3-speed all synchro gear box (AP5, AP6, VC, VE, VF).

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9.5.3 XR Ford Falcon (Model ML114)

At least two Thomas shifter models were produced – one for XP and one for XR Falcons. This is probably because the early Falcon XK-XP has a

very different bellhousing pattern to the later XR-XY Falcons... though I am no Ford guru. The shifter pictured was removed from an XY Falcon, so

is likely to be the model ML114 to suit XR Falcons.

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9.6 Speco-Thomas Centreshift and Mr Shifter

Speco-Thomas manufactured a variety of 3-speed floor shift conversions under the CentreShift brand,

and 4-speed conversions under the Mr Shifter brand. Whilst none of these shifters are suitable for the

grey motor crashbox, they do represent a large share of the “eBay bargains” circulating in the market. I

have included the information below due to this popularity, and to help clear up uncertainty.

9.6.1 CentreShift and Mr Shifter Models

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The images below are of the CentreShift HQ-HZ shifter (Part number 601474)

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The images below are of the CentreShift 3-speed Toploader shifter:

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The images below are of the CentreShift Valiant AP5-CM 3-speed shifter (Part number 601478) :

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The shift pattern of the EH Holden all synchro gearbox, HD-HR Holden all synchro gearbox, HK-HG all

synchro gearbox, HQ-HZ Holden, HQ-HZ racing model, Holden Torana LC-UC and Holden 1-tonner (Part

numbers 601461, 601472, 601473, 601474, 601474R, 601476 and 601487) is as

follows:

1st: Pull to the left and backwards. Rear lever of gearbox moves clockwise. Front lever

of gearbox remains in neutral position.

2nd

: Push forwards to neutral from first, across to the right and forward again. Front lever

of gearbox moves anticlockwise. Rear lever returns to neutral position.

3rd

: Pull back from second. Front lever of gearbox clockwise. Rear lever remains in neutral position.

Reverse: From neutral, pull to the left and forwards. Rear lever of gearbox moves anticlockwise. Front

lever remains in neutral position.



st to 2

nd gear


2

2

1 3

R

N

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The images below are of the Aussie 4-speed shifter (single lever, Part number 604500)

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9.6.2 Shifter Identification

Individual shifters can be difficult to identify, and many parts are common amongst the shifters. The

following table gives some means of identifying by the handle type:

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9.6.3 Reverse Light Switches

Speco also manufactured reverse light kits for the shifters:

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9.6.4 Shifter Spare Parts

Spare parts were available for the shifters as per below:

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9.6.5 Speco Gear Knobs

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9.6.6 Fitting Instructions - Mr Shifter Aussie 4-speed shifter (Part number 604500)

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9.6.7 Fitting Instructions - EH Holden all synchro gearbox, HD-HR Holden all synchro gearbox,

HK-HG all synchro gearbox, HQ-HZ Holden, HQ-HZ racing model, Holden Torana LC-UC

and Holden 1-tonner (Part numbers 601461, 601472, 601473, 601474, 601474R, 601476 and

601487)

Note that I have included two versions of the fitting instructions, which contain the reverse light switch

instructions.

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9.6.8 Fitting Instructions - Mr Shifter Muncie 4-speed (Part numbers 604200 and 604250)

Attached below are installation instructions for the Mr Shifter Muncie 4-speed shifters, for both the 3-bolt

extension (Part number 604200) and the 5-bolt extension (Part number 604250)

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9.6.9 Fitting Instructions - Mr Shifter Saginaw 4-speed (Part number 604100)

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9.6.10 Fitting Instructions - Mr Shifter Ford Toploader (Part numbers 604300, 604325 and 604350)

Attached below are installation instructions for the Mr Shifter Ford Toploader 4-speed shifters (Part

number 604300), which also applies to the Cobra replica model (Part number 604325) and the XA Falcon

onwards model (604350)

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9.6.11 Fitting Instructions – CentreShift Falcon and Cortina 3-speed (Part numbers 601481 and

601460)

Attached below are installation instructions for the CentreShift 3-speed shifters to suit Ford Falcon XA-XF

(Part number 601481) and Ford Cortina TC-TF (Part number 601460)

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9.7 Ralph Horton Shifter

The Ralph Horton shifter is described in the August 1960 edition of Modern Motor.

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9.8 Hardrowl Shifters

The image to the right is taken from Modern Motor of June 1962. Hardrowl

Speed Equipment began business in 1959. This business was run as a

partnership by two apprentice tool makers, Terry Hardiman and Ian

Rowley. Manufacturing commenced making lowering kits, panhard rods,

traction rods, floor gear shift conversions, sports air filters, induction

manifolds, ram tubes and the like.

In 1963 the first speed shop in NSW was opened in the Sydney suburb of

Beverly Hills. The Hardrowl partnership was dissolved in 1966 and Terry

and Sylvia Hardiman commenced trading as Hardiman Auto Supplies Pty

Ltd. In 1972, the original speed shop in Beverly Hills was expanded to

more than four times its original size. Manufacturing continued and

additional product lines were added. Importing from the USA commenced

and the wholesale business continued to expand. The retail business was

sold in 1981.

The manufacturing and wholesale business was then relocated to Ashford

Avenue, Milperra in 1984 where it remains today. Products are imported

from the USA, UK, India and Taiwan and manufactured products are sold

Australia-wide and exported to the UK, New Zealand and Indonesia.

Under the Redline trademark, Hardiman Auto Supplies manufactures the

largest range of inlet manifolds, carburettor adaptors and associated

linkage components in the southern hemisphere. In September 2005

Hardiman Auto Supplies Pty Ltd was purchased by Mark and Deborah Hardiman the son of Terry and

Sylvia.

Sadly, other than magazine advertisements no other information appears to have survived for the

Hardrowl shifters.

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10 Holden Part Numbers

The following part numbers have been taken from the Master Parts Catalogue (20 Years of Holden

Production).

Bolt, hexagonal head 7/16”-14x2” 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK (manual) 179866

Gasket kit, transmission 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK (manual) 7405896

Gearshift anti-rattle spring 48, 50, FJ 7400925

Gearshift anti-rattle spring clip 48, 50, FJ 7400926

Gearshift control lever bearing support FE, FC, FB, EK right hand drive 7409292

Gearshift control lever bearing support FE, FC, FB, EK left hand drive 7415699

Gearshift control lever bearing support bolt, hexagonal head ¼”-20x5/16” with lock washer

FE, FC, FB, EK 423332

Gearshift control lever support FE, FC 7409267

Gearshift control lever support bushing FE, FC 7410881

(only suitable for fitment to gearshift control lever support part number 7409267 which have a 2.280”

diameter hole in base)

Gearshift control lever support FB, EK manual 7412561

Gearshift control lower support assembly 48, 50, FJ 7400933

Gearshift control lower support bolt, auto hexagonal head ¼”-28x11/8” 48, 50, FJ 123467

Gearshift control lower support bushing 48, 50, FJ 7400935

Gearshift control shaft return spring 48, 50, FJ 7400945

Gearshift control shaft return spring clip 48, 50, FJ 7400939

Gearshift control shaft selector collar 48, 50, FJ 7400940

Gearshift control shaft selector collar bolt, hexagonal head 3/8”-24x1¾” 48, 50, FJ 120668

Gearshift control shaft selector collar washer, spring lock 3/8” heavy 48, 50, FJ 131099

Gearshift control shaft selector collar to shaft washer 48, 50, FJ 7400941

Gearshift control tube assembly shaft 48, 50, FJ 7400932

Gearshift control tube assembly FE, FC 7414257

(when fitting to FE South Australia up to serial number 16430A, Queensland up to serial number 20221B,

Victoria up to serial number 50881M, Western Australia up to serial number 11175P and New South

Wales up to serial number 53442S, it is necessary to use 1-7414191 pin and 1-7414192 sleeve)

Gearshift control tube yoke pin FE, FC 6649871

(South Australia from serial number 16431A, Queensland from serial number 20222B, Victoria from serial

number 50882M, Western Australia from serial number 11176P and New South Wales from serial

number 53443S, FC)

Washer-spring ¼” FE, FC (see note) 6649871

(South Australia from serial number 16431A, Queensland from serial number 20222B, Victoria from serial

number 50882M, Western Australia from serial number 11176P and New South Wales from serial

number 53443S, FC)

Gearshift control tube yoke pin see note 7414191

(When fitting it is necessary to use 1-7418341 bush)

Gearshift control tube yoke pin sleeve see note 7414192

(When fitting it is necessary to use 1-7418341 bush)

Gearshift control tube assembly FB (right hand drive) 7418344

Gearshift control tube assembly FB, EK (left hand drive) 7418875

Gearshift control tube assembly EK (right hand drive) 7418876

Gearshift control upper repair kit 48, 50, FJ 7406277

Gearshift control upper support 48, 50, FJ 7400924

Gearshift control upper support screw, oval head sl. mach. ¼”-28x3/8” 48, 50, FJ 438203

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Gearshift control upper support washer, countersunk external tooth lock ¼” 48, 50, FJ 114616

Gearshift damper band assembly FB, EK manual left hand 7419095

Gearshift damper band assembly FB, EK manual right hand 7419094

Gearshift damper spring FB, EK manual 7419057

Gearshift lever 48, 50, FJ 7400922

Gearshift lever FE, FC 7409767

Gearshift lever FB, EK (manual) 7412557

Gear lever anti-rattle bush FB, EK, EJ, EH, HD, HR except HR 4-speed

Manual transmissions 7418341

Gearshift lever anti-rattle spring FE, FC 7409271

Gearshift lever anti-rattle spring FB, EK, EJ, EH, HD, HR excluding HR 4-speed

manual transmissions 7412559

Gearshift lever anti-rattle washer 48, 50, FJ 7400930

Gearshift lever cover FE, FC 6649854

Gearshift lever grip washer 48, 50, FJ 7401212

Gearshift lever knob 48, 50, FJ except FJ/225 7400923

Gearshift lever knob FJ/225 7404446

Gearshift lever knob FE, FC 7409766

Gearshift lever knob FB, EK (manual) 7412560

Gearshift lever pivot pin 48, 50, FJ 7400929

Gearshift lever pivot pin FE, FC 6649852

Gearshift lever pivot washer, spring 7/16” FE, FC SP1328

Gearshift lever pivot pin retainer FE, FC 6649853

Gearshift lever pivot pin spring 48, 50, FJ 7400928

Gearshift lever shim 48, 50, FJ 501301

Gearshift selector lever pivot pin 48, 50, FJ 7400944

Gearshift selector lever pivot retainer spring ¼” 4, 50, FJ 148148

Gearshift tube return spring FE, FC, FB, EK, EJ, EH automatic,

HD automatic, HR automatic, EH manual

149ci engines up to engine number 81520 7409281

Gearshift tube return spring EH manual 149ci engines from engine

number 81521, EH manual 179ci engines 7420809

Overhaul kit 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC 7430864

Overhaul kit FB, EK (M) 7430373

(when fitting to 48, 50, FJ, FE or FC models, it is necessary to ensure that the Mainshaft Part No,

7400127 is machined to accommodate the double row bearing lock ring. All current Mainshafts are

suitably machined).

Pin, spring type “A” ¼”x1” FB, EK 456299

Pin, transmission to engine dowel 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK (manual),

EJ (manual), EH (manual) 7401304

Pin, transmission to engine dowel 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK (manual),

(oversized) EJ (manual), EH (manual) 7406004

Repair kit 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK (manual) 7427800

Shifter lever 48, 50, FJ 7400178

Shifter lever FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7419060

(when fitting to FE, FC or FB up to engine number B169037, it is necessary to use 1-7419061 insulator).

Shifter lever insulator FB from engine number B169038, EK manual 7419061

Transmission assembly FE, FC, FB, EK (manual) right hand drive 7412705

Transmission cover gasket 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400197

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Transmission selector shaft assembly 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual right hand

drive 7415640

Transmission selector shaft assembly nut, light hexagonal 3/8”-24 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC,

FB, EK manual 120369

Transmission selector shaft assembly washer, spring lock 3/8”-medium 48, 50, FJ, FE,

FC, FB, EK manual 120382

Transmission selector shaft retainer 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual right hand

drive 7400192

Transmission selector shaft retainer 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual left hand

drive 7415812

Transmission selector shaft retainer bolt, auto hexagonal head ¼”-20x9/16”

48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 117461

Transmission selector shaft retainer bolt, auto hexagonal head ¼”-20x11/16”

48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual SP1011

Transmission selector shaft retainer washer, spring lock ¼” medium


Transmission selector retainer gasket 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400206

Washer, spring lock 7/16”-medium 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK (manual) 120383

First and reverse shifter yoke 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400214

Shifter yoke guide pin 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400175

First and reverse speed shifter shaft 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400215

Second and third speed shifter shaft 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400216

Shifter shaft lock screw, recess hexagonal head 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400182

Shifter shaft lock screw washer 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400256

Front propeller shaft housing gasket 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400401

Speedometer gear unit 48, 50, FJ 7405060

Speedometer gear unit FE, FC, FB, EK (manual) 7405945

Speedometer gear unit ball, 3/16” diameter 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 453587

Clutch gear 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7410410

Main shaft front needle roller bearing 48-HR all three speed manual transmissions 7400162

Main shaft front bearing package 48-HR all three speed manual transmissions 7427678

Clutch gear bearing 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual, EJ manual,

EH manual, HD manual N954413

Clutch gear retainer 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400242

Clutch gear retainer bolt auto hexagonal head 5/16”-18x

7/8” 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB,

EK manual 120229

Clutch gear retainer washer spring lock 5/16” medium 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 103320

Clutch gear retainer gasket 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400240

Clutch gear bearing oil slinger 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400226

Clutch gear bearing lock ring 0.062” selective fit 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400305




Synchronising cone retaining ring 48-HR all three speed manual transmissions 7400230

Synchonising friction cone 48-HR all three speed manual transmissions 7400128

Synchronising cone energizing spring 48-HR all three speed manual transmissions 7400223

Main shaft second speed gear 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual, EJ manual,

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EH manual, HD manual with transmission

numbers prefixed by “D” 7023268

Main shaft thrust washer 48-HR all three speed manual transmissions 7400222

Main shaft unit assembly 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7413028

(Main shaft unit assembly consists of “factory machined” main shaft and second and third speed

synchronizing clutch)

Main shaft with front propeller shaft (integral) 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400127

Main shaft rear bearing assembly 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC N954412

Main shaft bearing assembly (double row) FB, EK manual 7406231

(when fitting to 48, 50, FJ, FE or FC models as optional service double row bearing it is necessary to

ensure that the mainshaft part number 7400127 is machined to accommodate the double row bearing

lock ring. All current mainshafts are suitably machined).

Main shaft lock ring 48-HR all three speed manual transmissions 7400158

Main shaft bearing lock ring 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400129

First and reverse sliding gear 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual, EJ manual,

EH manual 149ci engine up to engine number

81520 7426604

Counter gear 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7419117

Counter shaft needle roller bearing 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual, EJ manual,

EH manual 149ci engine up to engine number

81520 7400225

(approximately 200 EH manual 149ci units of engine number prior to 81520 were manufactured equipped

with counter gear part number 7424794 which uses a ¾” needle roller part number 7422395, bearing

package part number 7427812).

Countershaft thrust washer 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400200

Countershaft needle roller bearing washer 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400198

Counter gear shaft 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400227

Counter gear shaft ball, 3/16” diameter 48-HR all three speed manual transmissions 453587

Reverse idler gear assembly with bushings 48-HR all three speed manual transmissions 7421593

Reverse idler gear thrust washer 48-HR all three speed manual transmissions 7400200

Reverse idler shaft 48-HR all three speed manual transmissions 7400194

Reverse idler shaft pin, groove type “A” 3/16”x½” 48-HR all three speed

manual transmissions 107317

Shifter shaft lock ball spring 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400148

Shifter shaft lock ball, 5/16” diameter 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 453591

Shifter yoke and lever set screw 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 1301275

Selector shaft dust shield 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual right hand

drive 7400259

Selector shaft dust seal 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual right hand

drive 7403035

Front propeller shaft housing and bushing assembly 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7408347

Front propeller shaft housing and bushing assembly bolt, auto hexagonal head 5/16”-18x¾” 48, 50, FJ South Australia up to serial number 8532A, Queensland up

to serial number B11824, Victoria up to serial number M22115, Western Australia up

to serial number P6473, New South Wales up to serial number 5/2386S 100121

Front propeller shaft housing and bushing assembly bolt, auto hexagonal head 5/16”-18x

7/8” FJ South Australia from to serial number 8533A, Queensland from serial

number B11825, Victoria from serial number M22116, Western Australia from serial

number P6474, New South Wales from serial number 5/2387S 120229

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Front propeller shaft housing and bushing assembly washer, spring lock 5/16” medium


Transmission front propeller shaft bushing assembly 48, 50, FJ South Australia

up to serial number 8532A, Queensland up to serial number B11824, Victoria

up to serial number M22115, Western Australia up to serial number P6473, New South

Wales up to serial number 5/2386S 7400402

Front propeller shaft seal 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400408

Selector lever repair kit 48, 50, FJ 7406608

Selector lever shaft assembly 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400204

Selector lever shaft assembly spring lock washer ¼” medium 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB,

EK manual 120380

Selector lever shaft assembly nut, light hexagonal ¼”-28 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB,

EK manual 120367

Selector lever spring washer 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400257

Selector lever seal 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400255

Selector lever seal washer, plain 25

/64”x¾”x0.059” 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual SP1225

Second and third speed, first and second speed, third and fourth speed shifter yoke


Transmission breather assembly screw 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400188

Transmission breather assembly cap 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400189

Transmission cover assembly 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400217

(when fitting to 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC up to engine number L584116 it is necessary to use 1-7400298 plug,

1-7410345 gasket).

Transmission cover assembly bolt, hexagonal head ¼”-20x9/16” 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB,

EK manual 117461

Transmission cover assembly spring lock washer, ¼” medium 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB,

EK manual 103319

Transmission drain plug ¾”-16 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC up to engine number

L584116 7400181

Transmission drain plug annular gasket ¾” 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC up to engine number

L584116 113897

Transmission drain plug and gasket, ½”-20 FC from engine number L584117, FB, EK

Manual 7423483

Transmission drain plug gasket, ½” FC from engine number L584117, FB, EK

Manual 7417490

Selector shaft control lever 48, 50, FJ 7400177

Selector shaft control lever FE, FC, FB, EK manual right hand drive 7409290

Selector shaft control lever FE, FC, FB, EK manual left hand drive 7415810

Selector relay lever assembly FB, EK manual left hand drive 7415811

Selector shaft control lever special spring washer FB, EK manual left hand drive 7415827

Selector shaft control lever washer, internal tooth lock 5/16” FB, EK manual left hand drive 115548

Transmission case assembly 48, 50, FJ up to engine number 283372 7400124

Transmission case assembly FJ from engine number U283384, FE, FC, FB,

EK manual right hand drive 7409979

Transmission case assembly FJ from engine number U283384, FE, FC, FB,

EK manual left hand drive 7415700

Transmission filler pipe plug, ½” 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 103868

Transmission selector shaft cover 48 up to engine number 70779, 50 up to engine

number 70779 7400199

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Transmission expansion plug, ¾” 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 103892

Gearshift selector rod 48, 50, FJ 7400950

Gearshift selector rod FE, FC, FB, EK manual right hand drive 7410280

Gearshift selector anti-rattle washer 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400949

Gearshift selector washer, plain 11

/32”x11

/16”x0.065” 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 120393

Gearshift selector cotter pin, 1/8”x

5/8” 48, 50, FJ 426663

Gearshift selector rod insulator 48, 50, FJ 7400951

Gearshift selector rod insulator FE, FC, FB, EK manual right hand drive 7409698

Gearshift selector rod nut, hexagonal 3/8”-24 FE, FC, FB, EK manual 120369

Gearshift selector rod cotter pin, 1/8”x

5/8” FE, FC, FB, EK manual 426663

Gearshift selector rod trunnion FE, FC, FB, EK manual right hand drive 7410279

Gearshift selector rod trunnion cotter pin, 1/8”x

5/8” FE, FC, FB, EK manual right hand drive 107763

Gearshift selector rod special washer FE, FC, FB, EK manual right hand drive 7400948

Gearshift control lower lever FB left hand drive 7415696

Gearshift control bolt, hexagonal head 5/16”-24x

5/8” FB left hand drive 106279

Gearshift control spring lock washer, 5/16” medium FB left hand drive 103320

Gearshift control lower lever retainer FB left hand drive, EK manual 7417172

Steering column selector lever trunnion FB left hand drive, EK manual left hand drive 7414649

Steering column selector lever trunnion EK manual right hand drive 7420296

Steering column selector lever FB, EK manual right hand drive 7415016

Gearshift selector lever pivot pin FB, EK manual 7414652

Gearshift selector lever pivot pin nut, hexagonal jam 3/8”-24 FB, EK manual 124925

Gearshift selector lever pivot pin washer, internal tooth lock 3/8” FB, EK manual 138542

Gearshift lower lever EK manual right hand drive 7418274

Gearshift lower lever EK manual left hand drive 7418877

Gearshift lower lever bolt, hexagonal head 5/16”-24x

5/8” EK manual 106279

Gearshift lower lever spring lock washer, 5/16” medium EK manual 103320

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11 Contacts

The businesses listed below have not reviewed or approved the information above, nor are they the sole

source of materials – I have listed them here as I have found them to be professional sources of early

Holden crashbox parts and/or information.

American Auto Parts

Address: Unit 2, 22 Rowood Road Prospect, NSW 2148 Australia

Telephone: (02) 9769 0655

Facsimile: (02) 9769 0633

Email: [email protected]

Internet: https://www.americanautos.com.au

Speco Thomas Pty Ltd

Address: 1B Levanswell Road Moorabbin, VIC 3189 Australia

Telephone: (03) 95557244

Facsimile: (03) 95532841


Internet: http://www.speco.com.au

NAK Australia Pty Ltd

Address: 14 Donald Street Guildford NSW 2161

Telephone: (02) 96816800

Facsimile: (02) 96816899


Internet: www.nak.com.au

Status Engineering

Address: 4/22 Shelley Avenue Kilsyth VIC 3137

Telephone: (03) 97253611

Facsimile: (03) 97253622


Flexible Drive Agencies

Address: 5/115-117 Orchard Rd Chester Hill NSW 2162

Telephone: (02) 97388600

Facsimile: (02) 97388699


mailto:[email protected]

https://www.americanautos.com.au/


http://www.speco.com.au/


http://www.nak.com.au/



fb/ek holden three-speed crashbox enthusiasts guide

Documents

basic identification

identification numbers

identification process

initial draft

fbek holden

table of contents

casting dates

selector forks