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Fashion Journal

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May 2014 Includes trend analysis, articles and commentary.

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Fashion  Journal  

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Table  of  Contents  Entry  #1:  .....................................................................................................................................  3  WWD:  “Vlogger’s  Winning  Online  Battle  Over  Brands”  March  2014  .................................................  3  Entry  #2  ......................................................................................................................................  8  Wall  Street  Journal  –  What  Shopper  [Need]  Want  –  April  2014  ...........................................................  8  Entry  #3  ....................................................................................................................................  11  Vogue  –  High  Heel  Hiatus  –  March  2014  .......................................................................................................  11  Entry  #4  ....................................................................................................................................  14  Spring  2014  vs.  Spring  2013  ..............................................................................................................................  14  Entry  #5  ....................................................................................................................................  15  Bloomingdales  –  Soft  Line  vs.  Hard  Line  .......................................................................................................  15  Entry  #6  ....................................................................................................................................  16  Trends  Found  On  The  Runway  ..........................................................................................................................  16  Entry  #7  ....................................................................................................................................  17  Fabric  Trends  ............................................................................................................................................................  17  Entry  #8  ....................................................................................................................................  18  

Entry  #9  ....................................................................................................................................  19  Global  Trends  –  WGSN  –  Trend  Analysis  Spring  2014  ............................................................................  19  Entry  #10  .................................................................................................................................  20  Visual  Store  Displays  .............................................................................................................................................  20  Entry  #11  .................................................................................................................................  22  Fashion  In  Movies  ...................................................................................................................................................  22  Entry  #12  .................................................................................................................................  23  Favorite  Designer  –  Oscar  de  la  Renta  –Ready-­‐to-­‐Wear  –  Spring  2014  ..........................................  23  Entry  #13  .................................................................................................................................  24  Fashion  Industry  Job  Descriptions  ..................................................................................................................  24  Entry  #14  .................................................................................................................................  25  Fashion  DON’TS  .......................................................................................................................................................  25  Entry  #15  .................................................................................................................................  26  Possible  Career  Path  Opportunities  ................................................................................................................  26            

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Entry  #1:    WWD:  “Vlogger’s  Winning  Online  Battle  Over  Brands”  March  2014    

The   Women’s   Wear   Daily   article,   “Vloggers   Winning   Online   Battle   Over  

Brands”,   talks   about   how   YouTube   beauty   gurus   have   larger   followings   than   the  

major   cosmetics   brands.   Vlogger,  Michelle   Phan,   is   leading   the   pack  with   about   6  

million  subscribers  and  has  recently  even  launched  her  own  line  of  cosmetics.  Phan  

attributes  her  success   to  her  authenticity  and  being  able   to  connect  with  her   fans.  

Establishing  that  authentic  personality  is  extremely  difficult  for  the  major  cosmetic  

companies.   The   brand   Dove   was   one   that   had   some   success   with   implementing  

authenticity   with   there   “It’s   Real   Beauty”   campaign.   The   short   video   became   the  

most  watched   online   ad   ever  with  more   than   170  million   views.   One   point  made  

Marisa  Thalberg,  of  Estee  Lauder,  is  that  the  lack  of  video  content  can  be  looked  at  

as  a  plus  because  it’s  the  independent  contractors  that  give  the  company  legitimacy.  

I   completely   agree   with   the   article.   I   love   Michelle   Phan,   but   I   only   feel   this  

attachment  because  I  watched  her  videos  long  before  she  became  so  popular.  There  

hasn’t  been  much  change  in  her  personality  from  then  until  now  so  I  see  her  as  an  

authentic  soul,  selling  an  authentic  brand.  I  don’t  think  that  companies  can  compete  

with  the  authenticity  by  putting  their  own  material  out  there,  but  they  can  use  the  

real  voices  of  beauty  bloggers  to  boost  their  sales.    

         

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Entry  #2    Wall  Street  Journal  –  What  Shopper  [Need]  Want  –  April  2014    

In  this  article  by  the  Wall  Street  Journal,  Saks  Fifth  Avenue’s  new  president,  

Marigay   McKee,   plans   on   changing   the   direction   of   the   company’s   appearance.  

Unlike   other   luxury   department   stores,   Saks   has   been   focused   on   cost-­‐conscious  

apparel  ever  since  the  2008  financial  crisis.  That  was  until  McKee.  She  see’s  herself  

as   “Mrs.  Average,”  because  she   fits   into   the  demographic  of   the  average  customer.  

She  wants  to  change  the  company  to  have  a  more  high  fashion  and  edgy  feel.  Rather  

than  changing  color  palettes  to  fit  the  season,  she  wants  to  have  a  black  and  white  

theme,  giving  off  a  chic,  glamorous  1950’s  atmosphere.  The  goal  is  to  go  from  bland  

merchandise  to  those  rare  must-­‐have  pieces.  I  think  this  has  a  lot  of  great  potential  

because  as  we  move  out  of   the  recession,  more  people  get  back   into  the  groove  of  

shopping.  This  is  an  example  of  how  economics  affect  the  fashion  industry.  I  assume  

that  when  we  had  the  downfall  in  2008,  people  weren’t  as  likely  to  spend  $4000  on  

a  designer  dress.  However,   that   is   changing  and  so  now   it’s   time   for  Saks   to   think  

about  what   they  can  do   to  encourage  purchases   like   that.   I   think   that  offering   the  

more  exclusive  experience  is  a  great  way  to  encourage  purchases.  I  say  this  because  

that  is  one  thing  that  I  look  for  when  shopping.  It’s  about  that  total  experience,  so  I  

respect  what  McKee  is  trying  to  do.    

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Entry  #3  Vogue  –  High  Heel  Hiatus  –  March  2014    

This  article  in  Vogue  talks  about  a  recent  trend  from  the  Spring  2014  fashion  

shows.  Rather  than  garmenting  the  models   in  towering  heel,   there  were  more  and  

more   flats   that  walked   the   runways.  From  gemstone  decorated  athletic   sandals   to  

embroidered  Vans,  flat  shoes  were  “the  it”  thing.  Author  of  the  article,  Sarah  Brown,  

takes   the   trend   to   a   few   podiatrists   who   joke   that   the   trend   is   towards   having  

healthy  feet.  All  jokes  aside,  the  article  continues  to  touch  on  the  point  that  wearing  

high  heels  too  often  can  cause  shortening  of  the  calf  and  Achilles  tendon.  However,  

they  also  advised  going  to  flats  shoes  gradually,  as   if  easing  off  an  addiction.  Some  

people,   though,  need  a   little   arch  when  walking.   In   this   case,   a   little  heel   is  better  

suited   than  a  completely   flat   sole.  This  can   trend  can  be   found   in   the  marketplace  

because  although  one  style  of  shoe  may  be  more  dominant  than  another  at  a  time,  it  

is  allowed  to  have  more  than  one  type  of  shoe  in  style  at  a  given  moment.  Therefore,  

although   flats   may   be   gaining   popularity,   it   doesn’t   mean   heels   are   loosing   their  

place  in  the  market.  I  feel  like  there  is  room  for  both  flats  and  heels  in  my  closet.  It  

really  just  depends  on  the  occasion.  

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Entry  #4  Spring  2014  vs.  Spring  2013    

After  looking  through  the  Ready-­‐to-­‐  Wear  collections  from  a  few  designers,  I  

noticed  that  Spring  2014  was  all  about  the  tea-­‐length  skirts,  embellished  detailing’s,  

white  on  white,  pastels  and  popping  graphics.    These  trends  have  definitely  trickled  

down  to  the  fast-­‐fashion  and  the  consumer  level  because  you  can  find  these  trends  

at  stores  like  TopShop  and  H&M.  These  trends  weren’t  as  common  in  Spring  2013  as  

they   are   today.   Last   year   there  were  more   of   the   shorter  A-­‐Line   skirts,   statement  

sunglasses,  chambray,  and  crop  tops.  Although,  we  still   find  those  styles   in  today’s  

fashion  as  well.    

 

     

Diane  von  Furstenberg  2014   Tory  Burch  2014  BCBG  Max  Azria  2014  

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Entry  #5  Bloomingdales  –  Soft  Line  vs.  Hard  Line    

Bloomingdales  is  a  department  store  that  houses  both  hard  line  and  soft  line  

merchandise.  When  walking   through   the  store   there  stands   to  be  some  noticeable  

trends   that   cross-­‐over   between   the   two   lines.   One   of   reoccurring   trends   was  

detailing  beading.  I  noticed  it  both  on  the  apparel  and  on  the  pillows  and  bedding.  

Another  trend  was  black  and  white  polka  dots  that  adorned  everything  from  ties  to  

napkins.  Lastly,  there  was  an  abundance  of  paisley-­‐like  designs  on  the  bedding  and  I  

found  similar  designs  on  the  soft  line  merchandise.    

       

Dots Paisley

Beading

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Entry  #6  Trends  Found  On  The  Runway  

   

Polka  Dots  Dolce  &  Gabbana  –  Milan  Fashion  Week  2014      

Paisley    Marc  Jacobs  –  New  York  Fashion  Week  2014  

Beading  Versace  –  Paris  Fashion  Week  2014  

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Entry  #7  

Fabric  Trends    

Snake   Skin   is   a   trending   fabric   for   the   current   season.  

Designer   brands   like  Gucci,   Prada,   and  Roberto   Cavalli   are   using  

this   graphic   print   repeatedly   in   their   2014   spring   collections.  

However,  it  may  be  hard  to  come  across  actual  snakeskin  because  

most   of   the   time   it’s   just   the   snake   skin   print   on   a   polyester   or  

cotton  fabric.    

 

Leather   is   another   huge   fabric   trend   for   spring   2014.  

However,   this   time   designers   are   taking   it   a   step   further   by  

including  laser-­‐cut  and  engraved  designs  into  the  fabric.  Designers  

like  Diane  Von  Furstenberg  and  Dolce  &  Gabbana  have  used  this  in  

their  recent  collections.    

       

Crochet   knit   fabrics   have   really   shown   their   popularity  

during   the   spring   2014   season.   Designers   like   Emilio   Pucci,  

Roberto  Cavalli  and  Oscar  de  la  Renta  have  all  accepted  this  trend  

into   their   own   lines.   The   main   fiber   content   for   this   fabric   is  

cotton.    

   

Italian  Trade  Show:  Federico  Albarello,  Spring  2014  Fabric  Swatch    

Beijing  Trade  Show,  Kunshan  Huarich,  Spring  2014  Fabric  Swatch  

Beijing   Trade   show,  Spring/Summer   2014,  Fabric  Swatch    

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Entry  #8  Color  Trends  

               

Color  Trend:  Blush    Viktor  &  Rolf  Fashion  Week  spring/summer  2014    

Color  Trend:  Pastel  and  pale  grey    Chanel  spring/summer  2014  Fashion  Week    

Color  Trend:  Cobalt  Blue    Emilio  Pucci  –  Spring  2014  Fashion  Week  

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Entry  #9  Global  Trends  –  WGSN  –  Trend  Analysis  Spring  2014    

Summer  white-­‐out   is   coming   on   strong,   especially   for   countries   like   China,  

Japan  and  Korea.  They  have  taken  the  all  white  outfit  and  put  a  sporty  twist  on   it.  

The  theme  is  head-­‐to-­‐toe  white  styling  with  

an  emphasis  on  sports  and  street  wear.  This  

is   a   trend   that   I   can   see   American   youth  

catching   on   to.   I   feel   like   there   is   a   lot   of  

emphasis  on  black  when  it  comes  to  sports  

and  street  wear  that  this  could  be  seen  as  a  

refreshing  twist.    

 

In   Milan,   the   trend   continues.  

Solid   white   features   paired   with  

monochrome   graphic   prints   are   quite  

popular.  The  dark  graphics  on  the  white  

apparel  ads  a   little  edge  to   the  soft  and  

simple  white  garments.  I  can  see  this  as  

being  a  trend  that  not  only  reaches  soft  

good   lines   but   also   hard   good   lines   as  

well.  

       

Right:  Daniel  Arsham  –  China  –  2014  Left:  Kyle  –  Japan  –  Spring/Summer  2014  

Right:  Nadine  –  Milan  –  April  2014  Left:  Max&Co.  –  Milan  –  April  2014  

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Entry  #10  Visual  Store  Displays  

   

At   United   Colors   of   Benetton,   I   liked   that   the   visual  

displays  were  well  keep.  The  t-­‐shirts  were  organized  and  color-­‐coded,  which  made  

the  display  flow  and  aesthetically  pleasing.  I  also  really  liked  how  they  tried  to  add  

flare  by  cuffing  the  sleeves  of  the  parka’s  and  button-­‐downs.  The  mannequins  in  the  

windows  were  well  dress,  but  I  felt  there  was  a  lack  on  consistency  with  them.  Some  

were  wearing   shoes   and   the  others  weren’t   and   the   side  view  didn’t   show  off   the  

garments  to  the  best  of  its  abilities.    

 

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At   the   Loft,   I   really   enjoyed   the   visual   displays   at   loft  

because   they   felt   authentic.   There   were   shoes,   scarfs,  

pants,  blazers  and  tops  all  on  one  table,  but  it  never  felt  

too  crowded.   It  simply   felt   that  they  putting  together  an  outfit   for  you.   I   think  this  

makes   the   store  more   shop-­‐able  because   it’s   showing   you   some  different   options.  

Just  like  with  United  colors  Of  Benetton,  Sleeves  were  cuffed,  giving  a  lived  in  vibe.  

The   one   thin   that   I   didn’t   like   was   the   waterfall,   stacking   of   skirts   and   shorts.   I  

understand   that   there   may   be   more   shorts   than   display   space,   but   this   is  

inconvenient  for  shoppers.    

     

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Entry  #11  Fashion  In  Movies    

In  the  2013  movie,  Hungar  Games:  Catching  Fire,  the  main  character,  Katniss,  

is  seen  wearing  an  almost  sheild-­‐like  scarf  above  a  leather  jacket.  Katniss  is  known  

for  her  triumph  in  battle;  therefore,  the  garment  appears  to  be  a  soft-­‐good  armoury.  

This  design  has  actually  already  gained  some  popularity  on  websites   like  etsy  and  

pinterest.  People  have  started  to  attempt  making  their  own  sweater  scarves  for  the  

cold  weather.  I  imagine  that  next  winter  similar  designs  or  influences  will  show  up  

in   the  major   retail   stores   because   it’s   very   innovative   and   there’s   a  market   for   it.  

Katniss’s  admirable  personality  has  made  this  an  item  of  interest.  

         

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Entry  #12  Favorite  Designer  –  Oscar  de  la  Renta  –Ready-­‐to-­‐Wear  –  Spring  2014      

I   looked   through  a   few  collections  on  Firstview.com  however  none  of   them  

stood  out   to  me  as  much  as   this  collections.  There  were  many  pieced   that   I   loved,  

but   the   following   three   garments   are  my   favorites.   I   just   love   the   tulle   because   it  

gives  the  gown  a  youthful  vibe  with  the  resemblence  of  a  tutu.  However,  it  isn’t  too  

youthful   that   it   lacks   sofistication.   I   could   see   there  gowns   in  Neiman  Marcus  and  

Saks,   but   also   used   as   inspiration   for   the   prom   dresses   sold   at   Macy’s   and  

Nordstrom.    

   

   

Oscar  de  la  Renta  –  Women’s  Ready-­‐to-­‐Wear,  Spring  2014  

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Entry  #13  Fashion  Industry  Job  Descriptions    Fashion  Designer:    The   designer   creates   original   designs   for   garments.   This   includes   sketching  

silhouettes,  selecting  fabrics  and  instructing  the  manufacturers  on  the  assembly  of  

the   product.   A   designer   needs   to   have   an   eye   for   color,   texture   and   pattern   and  

should  always  be  analyzing  upcoming   trends   in  order   to   implicate   them   into   their  

work.  

 Buyer:  A  buyer’s  is  responsible  for  planning  and  choosing  which  merchandise  shall  be  sold  

in   stores.   This   job   requires   a   great   understanding   of   consumer   demands,   market  

trends  and  financial  budgets.  They  must  be  able  to  choose  new  products,  which  will  

maximize   profit,   and   review   existing   products   to   ensure   they   stay   competitive.   A  

buyer  holds  a  lot  of  responsibility  for  the  well-­‐being  of  the  sales.  

 

Product  Development  Manager:  A  Product  Development  Manager’s   role   is   to  manage   the   entire   product   line’s   life  

cycle   from   start-­‐to-­‐finish,   analyzing   strategic   activities   that   would   better   sell   the  

line.   This   includes   conducting  market   research,   developing   a  marketing   plan,   and  

possibly   finding   potential   product   partnerships.   This   job   requires   a   great  

understanding  of  the  market  in  order  to  further  the  success  and  solve  problems  for  

the  product  line.    

 

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Entry  #14  

Fashion  DON’TS    

     

DON’T  wear  Capri  leggings  under  your  skirts  and  shorts.  It  isn’t  flattering  and  cuts  off  your  legs  making  you  look  shorter  

DON’T wear  platform  sneakers.  This  was  a  trend  back  in  the  60’s  –  80’s;  however,  I  don’t  see  why  it’s  come  back  to  haunt  us.  They  are  so  bulky  that  I  can’t  see  the  functionality  

DON’T  wear  fringed  boots.  Fringe  is  tricky  because  it  can  be  done  well;  however,  you  must  be  careful  to  not  look  too  costume-­‐like.  Fringed  boots  look  like  you  have  bear-­‐feet.  

DON’T  wear  leggings  under  your  ripped  jeans.  I  used  to  do  this  back  in  my  early  high  school  days  and  it  takes  away  from  any  portrayal  of  sophistication.  Ripped  jeans  can  look  edgy  while  still  maintaining  style.  It  just  has  to  be  done  properly.  

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Entry  #15    Possible  Career  Path  Opportunities    Financial  Planner:  A   Financial   Planner’s   job   is   to   critically   create,   evaluate   and   correct  merchandise  

financial  and  sales  plans  while  working  closely  with  buyers  and  the  merchandising  

team   to   generate   effective   sales   goals.   I’d   be   interested   in   this   job   because   I   am  

really  good  with  numbers  and  like  to  map  out  plans.    

 Visual  Director:  As   a   Visual   Director   I   would   be   responsible   for   the   various   visual  merchandising  

aspects  from  window  displays  to  even  store  renovations.  I  know  that  I’m  very  detail  

oriented  and  that  would  be  a  skill  I  could  put  to  good  use  with  a  job  like  this.  I  love  

creating  the  ultimate  appearance  so  this  is  a  job  I’d  like  to  look  further  into.    

 Buyer:  I  didn’t  see  myself  wanting  to  be  a  buyer  but  after   listening  to   the  guest  speaker’s  

transition  from  visual  merchandising  to  buyer,  it  seems  more  possible  for  me.  As  a  

buyer,   I   feel   like   I   could   use   my   detail-­‐orientated   skills   to   manage   the   product  

inventory,  analyzing  what  worked  and  what  didn’t.