fashion brand management notes

Upload: marvin-smith

Post on 02-Apr-2018

234 views

Category:

Documents


2 download

TRANSCRIPT

  • 7/27/2019 Fashion Brand Management Notes

    1/22

    1 | P a g e

    Brand equity, Brand awareness, association, loyalty, Perceived quality, Other

    proprietary assets, Strategy and policies to develop brand equity

    The value of a brand referred to as its equity is determined by a number of influences

    and factors. In combination, these increase both the market value of a brand as well as the

    measurable value to the business. This is important for any business as it determines whatthe brand is worth if the brand is bought, sold or licensed and also provides a business case

    for investment in the brand whether seeking funding from external investment or

    pitching for support from the business itself.

    Brand equity is a set of assets (and liabilities) linked to a brand that adds to (or

    subtracts from) the value provided by a product or service to a firms customers.

    Components of Brand Equity are:

    Awareness Perceived Quality Brand Associations Brand Loyalty Proprietary Brand Assets like trademarks , patents , channel relationships

    Brand Awareness

    Brand awareness is related to the strength of the brand node in memory, as reflected byconsumers ability to identify the brand under different conditions. Brand awareness

    consists of 1) brand recognition reflecting the ability of consumers to confirm prior

    exposure to the brand and 2) brand recall reflecting the ability of consumers to retrieve the

    brand, when given the product category, the needs fulfilled by the category, or some other

    type probe as a cue.

    Brand awareness can be characterised according to depth and breadth. The depth of brand

    awareness concerns the likelihood that the brand can be recognised or recalled and the

    breadth of brand awareness relates to the variety of purchase and consumption situations

    in which the brand comes to mind.

    Brand associations

    A brand association is any mental linkage to the brand. Brand associations may include,

    e.g., product attributes, customer benefits, uses, life-styles, product classes, competitors

    and countries of origins. The association not only exists but also has a level of strength. The

    brand position is based upon associations and how they differ from the competition. An

  • 7/27/2019 Fashion Brand Management Notes

    2/22

    2 | P a g e

    association can affect the processing and recall of information, provide a point of

    differentiation, provide a reason to buy, create positive attitudes and feelings and serve as

    the basis of extensions. The associations that a well-established brand name provides can

    influence purchase behavior and affect user satisfaction. Even when the associations are

    not important to brand choices, they can reassure, reducing the incentive to try other

    brands.

    Brand associations may take different forms. One way to distinguish among brand

    associations is the level of abstraction, that is, how much information is summarised or

    subsumed in the association. Within this dimension, the types of brand associations can be

    classified into three

    major types of

    increasing scope:

    1) attributes, 2)

    benefits, and 3)attitudes. Several

    additional

    distinctions can be

    made within these

    types according to

    the qualitative

    nature of the

    association. Figure

    3 illustrates the

    main types of brand associations.

    Brand loyalty

    Brand loyalty represents a favorable attitude toward a brand resulting in consistent

    purchase of the brand over time. It is the result of consumers learning that only the

    particular brand can satisfy their needs. Two approaches to the study of brand loyalty have

    dominated marketing literature. The first, a behavioral approach to brand loyalty, views

    consistent purchasing of one brand over time as an indication of brand loyalty. Behavioural

    measures have defined loyalty by the sequence of purchases and/or the proportion of

    purchases. Repeat purchasing behaviour is assumed to reflect reinforcement and a strongstimulus-to-response link.

    The second, a cognitive approach to brand loyalty, underlines that behaviour alone does

    not reflect brand loyalty. Loyalty implies a commitment to a brand that may not be

    reflected by just measuring continuous behaviour. A family may buy a particular brand

    because it is the lowest-priced brand on the market. A slight increase in price may cause

  • 7/27/2019 Fashion Brand Management Notes

    3/22

    3 | P a g e

    the family to shift to another brand. In this case, continuous purchasing does not reflect

    reinforcement or loyalty.

    Perceived quality

    Perceived quality can be defined as the customers perception of the overall quality orsuperiority of a product or service relative to alternatives. Perceived quality cannot

    necessarily be objectively determined, because perceived quality itself is a summary

    construct.

    Perceived quality is valuable in several ways. In many contexts, the perceived quality of a

    brand provides a pivotal reason to buy. It is influencing which brands are included and

    excluded from the consideration set and which brand is to be selected. A principal

    positioning characteristic of a brand is its location within the dimension of perceived

    quality. A perceived quality advantage provides the option of charging a premium price.

    The price premium can increase profits and/or provide resources with which to reinvest inthe brand. Perceived quality can also be meaningful to retailers, distributors and other

    channel members and thus aid in gaining distribution.

    Other proprietary assets

    Other proprietary assets

    such as patents,

    trademarks and channel

    relationships. If managed

    well, these assets addvalue to the product or

    service and create

    additional customer

    satisfaction, which, in turn,

    provide a number of

    benefits to the firm.

    The monetary value of a

    brand or its equity is

    a total measure of thebrands impact on both

    the company and its

    market. This

    measurement is

    represented by its

  • 7/27/2019 Fashion Brand Management Notes

    4/22

    4 | P a g e

    constituent elements in the diagram (right).

    Determining the value of a brand is also important in business deals where the brand is

    licensed. What is a brand worth when one company may license the brand of another,

    particularly if the host company is providing other benefits rather than the brand itself?

    Fashion and interior designers have long played on the equity of their own brands. It is a

    common tactic for top designers to lend their name, and specific designs, to department

    stores or retail brands. When international supermodel, Kate Moss, teamed up with the

    iconic fashion retail shop, Topshop, she effectively licensed her image, as her audience buys

    into her look her design skills are less important than her image. Moss signed a 3

    million deal to design her own collection and, since its launch, her ranges have immediately

    sold out. Designer, or supermodel, collaborations may be expensive but can greatly boost

    the image of the host brand.

    Strategy and policies to develop brand equity

    The literature review reveals further that brand equity provides value for both the

    customer and the firm. Brand equity creates value to customers by enhancing efficient

    information processing and shopping, building confidence in decision making, reinforcing

    buying, and contributing to self-esteem. Brand equity creates value to firms by increasing

    marketing efficiency and effectiveness, building brand loyalty, improving profit margins,

    gaining leverage over retailers, and achieving distinctiveness over the competition.

    Building Brand Equity

    Brand equity is built firstly, by creating positive brand evaluations with a quality product,

    secondly, by fostering accessible brand attitudes to have the most impact on consumer

    purchase behaviour, and thirdly, by developing a consistent brand image to form a

    relationship with the consumer.

    The first element in building a strong brand is a positive brand evaluation. Quality is the

    cornerstone of a strong brand. A firm must have a quality product that delivers superior

    performance to the consumer in order to achieve a positive evaluation of the brand in the

    consumers memory.

    Three types of evaluations can be stored in a consumers memory: 1) affective responses,2) cognitive evaluations and 3) behavioural intentions. Affective responses involve

    emotions or feelings toward the brand (e.g., the brand makes me feel good about myself,

    the brand is a familiar friend or the brand symbolises status, affiliation or uniqueness).

    Cognitive evaluations are inferences made from beliefs about the brand (e.g., the brand

    lowers the risk of something bad). Behavioural intentions are developed from habits or

  • 7/27/2019 Fashion Brand Management Notes

    5/22

    5 | P a g e

    heuristic interest toward the brand (e.g., the brand is the only one my family uses or the

    brand is on sale this week).

    The second element in building a strong brand is attitude accessibility. It refers to how

    quickly an individual can retrieve something stored in memory. Stored evaluations can be

    retrieved from memory in two ways. Automatic activation occurs spontaneously frommemory upon the mere observation of the attitude object. Controlled activation requires

    the active attention of the individual to retrieve a previously stored evaluation or to

    construct a summary evaluation of the attitude object.

    The third element in building a strong brand is to have a consistent brand image.

    Consistency of the brands image is a part of managing the relationship between the

    consumer and the brand. A relationship develops between the personality of the brand and

    the personality of the consumer with each purchase.

    Brand Equity Valuation Brand valuation cost base, market based, customer based,Inter Brand, Y & M BAV

    Young & Rubicam

    International advertising agency, Young & Rubicam, have a well-known model called the

    Brand Asset Valuator (BAV) that is based on what consumers think about brands. It tracks

    the consumer equity value of a brand, which is gauged from a comparative measure

    against its competition, based on an annual survey of 38,000 brands across the world. It is a

    valuation that also ties in with financial analysis so that the brands contribution to a

    companys value can be determined.

    BAV works in the following way: the BrandStrength is based on differentiation (D in the

    facing diagram or powergrid, signifying the extent to which a consumer will choose that

    brand) and market relevance (R). This creates the brands future value. In contrast,

    lagging indicators, which show the Brands Stature, are based around the brandsesteem

    (E) and knowledge (K). Together, these four aspects of the brand demonstrate a pattern

    that can determine where the brand fits in the marketplace.

    Brands at different stages of their life will tend to show similar patterns for example, a

    young, recently launched brand will have low scores overall, while a new brand with

    strength will display strong levels of differentiation but not relevance. This methodology

    not only helps to gauge a brand against its competitors and better understand consumer

    perceptions, but also reveals whether the brand is in a healthy position to be extended.

  • 7/27/2019 Fashion Brand Management Notes

    6/22

    6 | P a g e

    Differentiation (Point of difference , How is the brand different from the restof the world, What does it offer which others are not offering)

    Relevance (Is it relevant to significant segment, does it attract a largecustomer base , house hold penetration)

    Esteem (Quality perception ) Knowledge (What brand stands for, awareness , recognition , recall)

  • 7/27/2019 Fashion Brand Management Notes

    7/22

  • 7/27/2019 Fashion Brand Management Notes

    8/22

    8 | P a g e

    equity ultimately depends on what resides in the minds of consumers. Third, the

    differential response by consumers that makes up the brand equity is reflected in

    perceptions, preferences, and behaviour related to all aspects of the marketing of a brand.

    The 4 Fundamental Questions

    Who are you? (Brand Awareness) What do you do? (Brand Knowledge) What do I think about you? (Brand Attitude) What about you and me? (Brand Relationship)

    Quantifying the value of a brand:

  • 7/27/2019 Fashion Brand Management Notes

    9/22

    9 | P a g e

    Interbrand is an international branding agency best known for its brand strategy and

    evaluation abilities. The company pioneered measuring techniques for branding in the

    1980s during the era of some high-profile mergers and acquisitions (M&As) of brands that

    were formerly not recognised for their values. It has also been an important leader in

    progressing the idea of branding from straight identity work, such as logo and naming

    development, to making the value of brands a key part of business and an important

    business asset.

    Each year, Interbrand releases its top 100 brand ranking list. Companies are measured

    according to the brands international presence, financial data and potential future

    earnings. Interbrand then quantifies a net value for the brand. Applying this kind of hard

    and factual criteria to brands has strengthened the role of brands within business.

    Interbrands

    Interbrand has a well-recognised brand valuation approach that has been established for anumber of years. It attempts to apply quantitative and objective measures to rank the

    worlds top brands. However, certain criteria must be met for the brand to be included: its

    internationality and turnover (Interbrand only considers large global brands), its audience

    and the data available and so some well-known global brands (such as the BBC) will

    therefore inevitably be left out. Interbrand looks at three key areas in their brand analysis:

    a. Financial forecasting

    The revenue that is generated from products and services. Interbrand analyses both the

    tangible and intangible assets of the business to determine their Economic Value Added(EVA). In Interbrands Best Global Brands report of 2008, EVA is described as a value-

    based management concept. It determines the ability of the (branded) business to

    generate returns above what is invested into the business. To calculate this, Interbrand

    identifies the branded revenue that is generated from products and services. It then

    deducts the brands invested capital such as its operating cost, employment bill and taxes

    to get the economic value of the branded business.

    b. The role of branding

    This identifies business earnings that are attributable to the brand. This is dependent on

    the sector in which the brand operates, as the brand may be a key driver for purchasing in

    the fashion or fragrance sector, but may only be one attribute of many in the business-to-

    business sector.

    For example, while Intel has a strong brand, many people will be using it because of its

    bundling with Windows-based computers, rather than necessarily choosing to purchase an

    Intel-based computer.

  • 7/27/2019 Fashion Brand Management Notes

    10/22

    10 | P a g e

    c. Brand strength

    This assesses the risk profile of the current brand value. A risk profile may look at a brands

    future vulnerability in its particular sector (for example, retail banking brands are

    particularly vulnerable during the creditcrunch period as people have lost trust in these

    brands). This risk factor is discounted from the brands current value. There are a numberof factors that are accounted for in the measurement process:

    the brands leadership, stability, market dynamics, internationality, trends, support

    and protection. In 2008, Interbrands top five brands were (in descending order) Coca-

    Cola, IBM, Microsoft, GE and Nokia respectively.

    Interbrand, a UK based consulting co. Criteria includes business prospects and brands market environment, as

    well as consumer perceptions

    Brands evaluated on 7 criteria: Leadership (25%) Stability (15%) Market (10%) International (25%) Trend (10%) Support (10%) Protection (05%)

    Strategies to manage Fashion Brands Brand architecture, Corporate Branding,

    Endorse Branding, Range Branding, Line Branding, Source Branding

    Brand structures

    Brand structure is also known as brand architecture and provides a map of relationships

    between all of the brands in a companys portfolio. It helps companies to define the

    relationship between the different brands and provides an overview that is easily managed.

    The brand structure will cover a picture of the whole brand family, including the

    relationship between the parent brand and its sub-brands, the relationships among sub-

    brands themselves and also to brand extensions.

  • 7/27/2019 Fashion Brand Management Notes

    11/22

    11 | P a g e

    A brand structure helps the brand manager understand the role and contribution of each

    brand to the overall success of the business. It can facilitate decisions on how to invest in

    specific brands, or whether they should be disposed of, rebranded or retired. It should also

    offer a clear view of which brands are owned by whom, as well as the distinctive benefits of

    each brand.

    Types of brand structures

    Brand structures are not necessarily visible to the customer and may not impact on their

    choice of brand. For example, large consumer-goods companies such as P&G or Unilever

    both own a number of different fast-moving consumer goods (FMCG) brands (including

    toiletries and home care products like washing powder). Brands within the same family

    may also compete with each other for the consumers wallet.

    There are 6 Branding Strategies:

    1. The Product Brand This strategy involves assignment of a particular name to one, and only one,

    product.

    Each new product receives its own brand name and a unique positioning. Here, the brand, the name of the product becomes a strict indication of identity. E.g. Procter & Gamble and HLL

    2. The Line Brand

    This strategy involves offering one coherent product under a single name, byproposing many complementary products.

    This involves offering one product, and then extension of the offer by includingseveral related products within the same specific offer.

    E.g. Studio Line from L'Oreal3. The Range Brand

    Range brands bestow a single brand name and promote through a single promise arange of products belonging to same area of competence.

    4. The Umbrella Brand

    Under umbrella brand strategy, the same brand supports several different productsin different markets.

  • 7/27/2019 Fashion Brand Management Notes

    12/22

    12 | P a g e

    Each product has its own advertising tools and develops its own communication. Yet each product maintains its own generic name. E.g. Canon- Canon cameras, Canon Fax machines, Canon photocopiers, Canon

    printers etc.

    5. The Source Brand

    This is similar to umbrella brand strategy with the only distinction that products aredirectly named. (Instead of a generic name).

    It provides a two-tiered sense of difference and depth that is by identifyingsource/ parent brand while at the same time providing a distinct identity through

    the daughter brand.

    6. The Endorsing Brand

    The endorsing brand gives its approval to a wide diversity of products. It acts as a guarantor of quality. It allows dual brand equity to develop. Brand endorsement can be indicated in a graphic manner by placing the

    logo/emblem of endorser next to brand name.

    E.g. Nestle, Polo Ralph Lauren

    The corporate brand

    The corporate brand role depends on how prominent the company is in the brand

    proposition. It may include elements of social or business conduct, the relationship with

    suppliers and distribution channels and also be the employee brand (or internal facing

    brand). Pure corporate brands are rare, but include companies such as General Electric

    and Philips, where all the products reflect the same brand as the company. It is the

    same as The Umbrella Brand.

    Brand Extension & Line extension, Multibrand Portfolios Multi Brand Strategy, Pros

    & Cons , power Branding

  • 7/27/2019 Fashion Brand Management Notes

    13/22

    13 | P a g e

    WHY EXTEND THE BRAND?

    (Benefits of Extension)

    To energize the brand & aid innovation- helps identify logical new productcategories.

    Helps capitalize paid-for equity in established brand names. Helps enter new product categories at significantly lower costs. Helps beat product obsolescence. Risk reducer for both the firm as well as consumers. Benefits of spillover of advertising. Helps expand core promise to new users. Helps block or inhibit competition.

    Types of Brand Extensions

    Product Form Extension

  • 7/27/2019 Fashion Brand Management Notes

    14/22

    14 | P a g e

    Companion Product Customer segment Company Expertise Brand Image or Prestige

    Store Brands v/s Manufactured Brands Private label/Store Brand Strategy, Benefits

    for the customers and retailers, Store Brand strategy vis-- vis manufacture Brand

  • 7/27/2019 Fashion Brand Management Notes

    15/22

    15 | P a g e

    Six Factors Affecting the Success of Private Brand

    Quality of store brand relative to national brands is high.

    The quality of store brand is consistent over a period of time.

    The product category is large in absolute value terms in stores sales revenue.

    The percentage of gross margins in the product category is high

    The number of national players is fewer than in other categories.

    National advertising expenditure in the product categories is low.

    Economics of Private Labelling

    The figure has been constructed with the underlying assumption that (a) it is technically

    feasible for the store to introduce its own brand (b) the competitive scenario does not

    change the position from one quadrant to another and (c) the switching costs for the

    consumers are not high, per s .

  • 7/27/2019 Fashion Brand Management Notes

    16/22

    16 | P a g e

    Quadrant I: Low-Low

    This quadrant represents a situation in store where both types of competition are low.

    A category that manifests low competition in both dimensions may be, per se, unattractive

    for private label.

    Such a phenomenon may be caused by

    1.High degree of commoditization

    2.Low importance of the product category for the customers

    3.High input-output ratio in manufacturing.

    The retail store may never enter such a category with its own label

    Quadrant II: High-Low

    This quadrant represents high competition between the stores brand and the major

    National brand and low competition among National brands.

    This occurs when consumers affective Attachment to national brands is high and

    Achieving brand loyalty is a short-term process.

    The retail brand will not suffer from me-too Syndrome.

    The store is better off launching its brand.

  • 7/27/2019 Fashion Brand Management Notes

    17/22

    17 | P a g e

    Quadrant III: Low-High

    This quadrant represents high competition Among national brands but low competition

    Between the store brand and national brands.

    This happens when national brands are highly advertised and the customers awarenessOf those brands is high, both cognitive and Effective, while facing the store brand on their

    Visit to the store.

    Therefore, if the store assesses its position In this quadrant, it is better off not launching

    Its brand.

    Quadrant IV: High-High

    This quadrant depicts an all-out competition among the national brands and if the store

    Introduces its private label, it will come under Direct fire as much as it will be caught in the

    Cross-fires of the national brands.

    Therefore, it is expected that a store that Views itself in this quadrant is better off not

    Introducing its private label.

    Evidently, the quadrants in Figure 1 can be influenced by the strategic approach by the

    retailer. For example, if the store reckons itself falling in Quadrant III which prescribes non-

    introduction of the store-brand, it can generate competition between its brand and the

    national brand by aggressive in-store promotion of its top Private Label versus National

    Brands.

    This shifts the in-store context from Quadrant III to Quadrant IV in the short-run and

    eventually, once customer loyalty for the store brand has been built up to Quadrant II,

    which is favourable to the store-brand.

    The concept of luxury brands, Luxury Brand, Signature Brand

    Globalization of Fashion Brands Audit for the Fashion Brand Global Branding

    strategy, Tracking the performance of the Brand

    For consumers who are already brand-savvy, luxury names come under one of two

    distinct titles: classic brands and high fashion brands. Classic names include Chanel,

    Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo, Balenciaga, Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton and Prada names

    that suggest enduring value. Among the contemporary brands that command consumers

    attention are names like Armani, Versace, D&G, Moschino, Calvin Klein, Hugo Boss and

  • 7/27/2019 Fashion Brand Management Notes

    18/22

    18 | P a g e

    Ralph Lauren. The luxury consumer in profile delivered a fascinating profile of the Indian

    luxury consumer, leaning on the latest study by research group KSA Tecnopak:

    Primarily resident in urban India

    Lives in a household earning more than about INR800,000 (US$18,000) a year, wherethe chief wage earner is male, average age 3637

    Owns a premium/luxury saloon car such as a Honda Accord, a Vectra, a Skoda

    Octavia etc.

    Among women consumers, 65%are housewives

    Most are educated to post-graduate level

    Incidence of foreign travel is 53%, 44% travelling abroad for holidays at least once a

    year.

    The KSA study categorizes luxury households into segments according to their attitudes to

    luxury goods purchasing:

    The Arrived: This is the most affluent group, comprising 49%of the target audience of

    luxury goods companies.

    The Actualized Ascetic: This group comprises largely self-made men, professionals or

    businesspeople who are in their late 40s or early 50s. This is the smallest group (15%of

    the target audience).

    The Climbers: As the name suggests, this group wants to project a lifestyle image that will

    gain them acceptance into the higher echelons of society, yet many lack the discernment

    that comes with exposure to luxury brands and wealth over a long period. These are 19%

    of the target universe for luxury brands, says the study.

    The Laggards: Although well-heeled and targeted by luxury brands, this group remains

    nonchalant about luxury goods consumption. This group comprises a high proportion of

    college drop-outs and graduates who are in business or work as office executives. This

    group is 17% of the target consumer base.

    Five key forces that are shaping todays luxury mindset:

    Growing incomes coupled with optimism about the future.

    An expanding upper class, creating large peer groups and reference groups for aspiring

    consumers. The new Indian mindset is deeply rooted in social hierarchy, with those who

  • 7/27/2019 Fashion Brand Management Notes

    19/22

    19 | P a g e

    want to make the leap into the higher strata of society imitating the prestige purchases of

    those they imagine are above them in the hierarchy.

    Money, wealth and consumerism are emerging as the undisputed measures of success

    and a life well lived.

    First-hand exposure to products and lifestyles overseas. Over 6 million Indians travelled

    overseas in 2004: 22% to the US, 24% to Europe and 34% to Southeast Asia

    The influence of the media, coupled with the greater availability of lifestyle products and

    services in the last five years.

    What is a signature brand?

    The word signature can be defined as a distinctive pattern, product or characteristic by

    which someone or something can be identified. A signature brand is an original, cohesive

    design based on the personality of your company that is carried across all print, digital andweb communications.

    Why is it important to have a signature brand?

    People remember you. People take notice when they see the same unique brand

    repeatedly, and they remember you and your company. Down the road, when they need

    your product or service, youre the one that they will call first. On the other hand, that

    person may never need your product or service, but they may run across a friend, family

    member or professional contact who does. Having a signature brand increases awareness

    and visibility among your current clients, potential clients and your personal andprofessional networks.

    You don't look like the business next door. In this day and age its easy to do it yourself.

    There are plenty of inexpensive or free templates online for everything from logos and

    business cards, to brochures, catalogs and web sites. The problem with those templates is,

    that while they may look nice enough, they arent unique to your business. You will be

    using the same template as hundreds of other businesses, and your company wont stand

    out. If your brand isnt unique and memorable, and doesn't reflect the personality of your

    company, you will miss out on potential opportunities.

    It portrays a professional image. Having a signature brand created by a trained graphic

    designer makes you look more professional, which increases credibility for your business.

    Educated designers go through years of training about the history of graphic design, color

    theory, use of typography, photography and study under seasoned designers. There are

    sound reasons why we choose that particular placement for the logo, that font, that image

    and those colors. All these elements combine to create an emotion that speaks to people

    http://www.redsealdesign.com/signature-brands.htmlhttp://www.redsealdesign.com/signature-brands.html
  • 7/27/2019 Fashion Brand Management Notes

    20/22

    20 | P a g e

    about your company. The emotion could be traditional, whimsical, progressive or

    intellectual. Your signature brand speaks volumes to your audience, so you want to ensure

    you portray the right image.

    What happens when people remember you, you dont look like the business next door and

    you portray a professional image? Your client base rises, your client retention rises, whichin turn helps your profits rise.

    The globalization of fashion brands has occurred as major fashion designer houses have

    expanded their product ranges and diversified into middle-market diffusion lines. Central

    London has been the target for some of this development activity in the 1990s. Charts the

    growth of designer outlets in the UK capital with particular attention to foreign companies

    and their market-entry strategies.

    As countries around the world are starting to recover from the global financial crisis, the

    luxury industry is recovering as well. The fastest growing luxury goods are electronicpieces, such luxury mobile phones, and the weakest is travel goods.1 Within the US though,

    consumer of luxury goods are starting to become more price-conscious and are buying one-

    of-kind items (clothing/accessories/etc) that hold special emotional ties, rather than

    expensive, mass-produced luxury goods.2

    Despite the comeback, the luxury industry still faces the same challenges as other

    industries, including high commodity prices (cotton, leather, silk and cashmere) linked to

    natural and man-made disasters (floods in Pakistan and China, flood in Australia, loss of

    silk trees from the urbanization of Shanghai, a harsh winter in Mongolia) impacting the

    supply chain, as well as high transportation costs due to the rising fuel costs.3

    The story and impact of luxury is the story of globalization. This analysis will examine the

    history of the luxury industry, the rise of China, and the industrys impact on global culture.

    Most clothing, jewellery, and accessory brands, such as Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Dior,

    Armani, Cartier, Versace, etc started out as small French or Italian family businesses,

    centered around a creative designer. In the 1970s, many of the French firms, suffered from

    a variety of management and ownership problems. These firms lacked capital and were not

    yet mass-marketing their wares.4

    The 1980s saw a revitalization of luxury firms. One reason was the use of celebrities to

    promote brand awareness, such as using the Academy Awards to showcase designer

    clothing.5 Another reason was the influx of capital to these firms. Leading this trend was

    real estate manager Bernard Arnault, who took control of Agache-Williot-Boussac-Saint-

    Frres and only kept the kept its affiliate Christian Dior. Arnault soon thereafter took

  • 7/27/2019 Fashion Brand Management Notes

    21/22

    21 | P a g e

    control of Louis Vuitton and Mot-Hennessy, and united them under LVMH. From 1985 to

    2006, he took over 64 brands.

    In the 1990s, the luxury firms started employing new strategies either diversifying their

    products toward mass consumption and/or focusing on select high-quality goods. Hermes

    and Vuitton followed the latter by increasing the quality of their product and by increasingthe number and skills of its craftsmen.

    LVMH also epitomized the strategy of diversification, segmentation, and differentiation, as

    it sought to balance the market share and individuality of its various brands. Differentiation

    was achieved through mass production and luxury production, ensuring that the luxury

    products had enough distinction to justify their price. Diversification was achieved through

    enlargement of the scope of products offered, such as cosmetics and other accessories9 In

    search of increasing profit (and perhaps relevance), the luxury industry had become

    democratized.

    Global Branding Strategy

    Brand strategy is aimed at influencing peoples perception of a brand in such a way that

    they are persuaded to act in a certain manner, e.g. buy and use the products and services

    offered by the brand, purchase these at higher price points, donate to a cause. In addition,

    most brand strategies aim to persuade people to buy, use, and donate again by offering

    them some form of gratifying experience. As branding is typically an activity that is

    undertaken in a competitive environment, the aim is also to persuade people to prefer the

    brand to competition.

    A global brand needs to provide relevant meaning and experience to people across multiple

    societies. To do so, the brand strategy needs to be devised that takes account of the brand s

    own capabilities and competencies, the strategies of competing brands, and the outlook of

    consumers (including business decision makers) which has been largely formed by

    experiences in their respective societies. There are four broad brand strategy areas that

    can be employed.

    (1) Brand Domain. Brand domain specialists are experts in one or more of the brand

    domain aspects (products/services, media, distribution, solutions). A brand domain

    specialist tries to pre-empt or even dictate particular domain developments. This requiresan intimate knowledge, not only of the technologies shaping the brand domain, but also of

    pertinent consumer behaviour and needs. The lifeblood of a brand domain specialist is

    innovation and creative use of its resources.

    (2) Brand Reputation. Brand reputation specialists use or develop specific traits of their

    brands to support their authenticity, credibility or reliability over and above competitors. A

  • 7/27/2019 Fashion Brand Management Notes

    22/22

    22 | P a g e

    brand reputation specialist needs to have some kind ofhistory, legacy or mythology. It also

    needs to be able to narrate these in a convincing manner, and be able to live up to the

    resulting reputation. A brand reputation specialist has to have a very good understanding

    of which stories will convince consumers that the brand is in some way superior.

    (3) Brand Affinity. Brand affinity specialists bond with consumers based on one or moreof a range of affinity aspects. A brand affinity specialist needs to outperform competition in

    terms ofbuilding relationships with consumers. This means that a brand affinity specialist

    needs to have a distinct appeal to consumers, be able to communicate with them

    affectively, and provide an experience that reinforces the bonding process. A brand affinity

    specialist is like a pet dog.

    (4) Brand Recognition. Brand recognition specialists distinguish themselves from

    competition by raising their profiles among consumers. The brand recognition specialist

    either convinces consumers that it is somehow different from competition, as is the case for

    niche brands, or rises above the melee by becoming more well-known among consumersthan competition. The latter is particularly important in categories where brands have few

    distinguishing features in the minds of consumers. In some cases, a brand recognition

    specialist needs to be able to outspend competition to gain unbeatable levels of awareness.

    In other cases, a brand recognition specialist needs to convince a loyal following of

    consumers that it is unique.

    Measuring the brand performance

    The increasing demand for brand valuation reflects the sophistication of the branding

    sector as well as the proliferation of different kinds of media. The ability to gauge how a

    brand is commonly perceived both among customers as well as how it is conveyed and

    written about across media is vital in judging how the brand or company is performing.

    Brand measurement and monitoring help marketing agencies (such as brand, public

    relations and advertising agencies) to determine whether the brand objectives are being

    met and, importantly, to prove their value to the client by showing what they have

    achieved.

    What creates value?

    While a companys share price can be an indicator of brand strength, it should not be

    viewed in isolation (and share prices are only applicable to publicly listed companies). Abrands success will be measured by the impact of the product, service and business that

    underpins the brand. This includes its perception and reputation among its stakeholders;

    the leadership of the business; its ability to differentiate and stay ahead of competitors; its

    ability to innovate and adapt; as well as its market share, margins, scale of presence and

    products sold. Measuring a brands performance, therefore, is complex because a brand is

    affected by so much more than just financial indicators.