FARVIS BITUMEN BOILERS

HANDBOOK

&

SAFETY INFORMATION

STANDARD LPG PROPANE FIRED DIRECT HEATING

FARVIS BITUMEN BOILERS

ALSO TOOL HEATERS AND LPG ‘MUSHROOM’ BURNERS

NOT APPLICABLE TO OIL JACKET AND THERMOSTAT CONTROL EQUIPMENT.

This information is copyright Farvis Ltd 2016

FARVIS BOILERS LTD EDINGTON SOMERSET

Issue v7.16 RF

FAILURE TO READ THIS BOOKLET, TO TAKE APPROPRIATE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS OR

TO USE ADDITIONAL SAFETY EQUIPMENT AS NECESSARY FOR YOUR PARTICULAR JOB COULD LEAD TO A SERIOUS ACCIDENT. THIS IS NOT A COMPLETE STATEMENT OF USE AND DOES NOT ATTEMPT TO PROVIDE EXHAUSTIVE INFORMATION ON THE SAFE USE OF THE EQUIPMENT, MATERIALS OR TECHNIQUES. IT SHOULD BE CONSIDERED ONLY AS GENERAL ADVICE TO BE READ WITH YOUR INDUSTRY AND LPG ITA GUIDELINES.

THERE IS A RED DATA INFORMATION STICKER ON THE CASING WHICH MUST BE LEGIBLE AT ALL TIMES. FURTHER COPIES ARE AVAILABLE FROM THE MANUFACTURER

IT IS THE RESPONSIBILITY OF THE USER TO ENSURE THAT THE EQUIPMENT IS SUITABLE FOR THE INTENDED PURPOSE AND THAT OPERATION AND MANAGEMENT COMPLIES WITH ALL SAFETY AND OTHER LEGISLATION AND REQUIREMENTS. AS WE CAN NOT KNOW OF OTHER USES TO WHICH OUR EQUIPMENT MIGHT BE PUT, THE RESPONSIBILITY FOR SAFETY RESTS ENTIRELY WITH THE USER. ADDITIONALLY, THE LOCATION OF THE UNIT AND THE MATERIAL HEATED MAY AFFECT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS, EQUIPMENT, PERSONAL PROTECTION AND OPERATING PROCEDURES.

PARTS OF THIS INFORMATION MAY REFER TO OTHER TYPES OF EQUIPMENT AND FACTORY FITTED OPTIONS. PLEASE IDENTIFY THE SECTIONS THAT REFER TO YOUR EQUIPMENT.

PARTS OF THIS EQUIPMENT INCLUDING LIFTING HANDLES, PAN RIM AND LID WILL BECOME VERY HOT IN SERVICE. DO NOT TOUCH THESE PARTS DURING OR IMMEDIATELY AFTER OPERATION - ALLOW TIME TO COOL.

FARVIS EQUIPMENT IS FOR INDUSTRIAL PROCESS USE ONLY. IT HAS NO INTENDED FUNCTION OTHER THAN FOR HEATING, PREPARATION AND APPLICATION OF INDUSTRIAL SEALANT. BITUMEN BOILERS AND ASSOCIATED EQUIPMENT HAVE BEEN DEFINED AS "INDUSTRIAL PROCESS EQUIPMENT" AND HAVE NO "COMMERCIAL" OR "DOMESTIC" FUNCTION.

IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT YOU AND ALL PEOPLE ASSOCIATED WITH THE BOILER OR THE USE OF HOT SEALANT USE SUITABLE PROTECTIVE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT AND THAT IT IS KEPT IN GOOD CONDITION. YOU DON’T GET A SECOND CHANCE WITH BITUMEN AT OVER 200 oC !

Sales and service of bitumen boilers and contractors plant.

FARVIS BOILERS LTD PHONE: 01278 723388 FAX : 01278 723820

EMAIL : sales @farvisboilers.co.uk Office hours :Monday – Thursday 8.30 – 4.30

Friday 8.30 – 1.00

Sales and service of LPG burners, service and repairs of Propamiser thermostat control units.

FARVIS LTD EMAIL : sales @farvis.co.uk

Office hours : Monday – Thursday 9.00 – 4.00

RECOMMENDED WIND SPEEDS FOR ROOFING The following are what we understood to be the maximum HSE recommended wind speeds for roofing operations as at Jan 2002. All speeds in miles per hour. STOP WORK Average wind Gust speed Bitumen and 23 35 mastic asphalt pouring. Handling slates, tiles, felt, battens, sheets and boards. (nb bitumen flow from a boiler outlet tap will be deflected well below this speed) Handling & laying of 17 ` 17 sheets longer than 5 m Lightweight materials including GRP & insulation boards. Work on unprotected 23 35 scaffolding involving vertical slating & tiling. EXTREME CARE Handling felt rolls. Use of hot bitumen. over 17 over 26 Cladding or decking over 20m length Any speed Any speed

Wind speeds usually increase with height and local speeds can be further increased by the effects of other buildings, funnelling of wind between structures, suction effects and even the effect of aircraft which can create a vortex - this isn't generally known but can be strong enough to rip slates & tiles off a roof.

There is also the risk of suction on the leeward side of a structure, so watch the wind direction too!

As a general precaution you might consider noting wind speed & direction and the exact location where the measurement was taken in case you have to show that you exercised 'due care'! Again, take and record measurements at the place where the work is being done, not on the ground outside the site office!!

These figures are given in good faith but we take no responsibility for errors. You should check to satisfy yourself that they are correct and also ensure that there are no local conditions that create a specific hazard.

SAFETY & GENERAL INFORMATION

FARVIS equipment will give long and Reliable service provided if correctly operated and maintained. Like any power tool or specialist equipment, it must be used carefully and sensibly by an operator who has an appreciation of the benefits and limitations of the process involved.

To use this equipment safely requires a sound working knowledge of the procedures, common sense, additional safety equipment depending on the job and location and personal protective equipment. Hot bitumen can reach temperatures as high as 250 oC and will inflict severe burns if it comes into contact with your skin. It is also flammable. LPG is a safe, clean and efficient but like any flammable gas it requires correct handling to avoid danger.

You must also maintain the boiler, valves, gas fittings and other items of your equipment. No product is everlasting and in time this equipment will wear out - how quickly depends on how you maintain it and how often it is used. The life of the boiler is largely dependent on the care shown in its use but when the time comes, it must be replaced. Failure to do so could lead to an accident.

Spares are available from stock and to continue to use damaged or defective equipment is unnecessary. Defective or unchecked equipment risks your own safety, that of your workmates and possibly members of the public as well as major damage to property.

PERSONNEL

Ensure that you know how to operate this equipment safely. Read and understand your trade association safety leaflets, HSE publications and LPG ITA codes of practice. Do not allow inexperienced or untrained personnel people to use the boiler or handle hot material. Anyone not directly involved must be kept well away from the equipment and the walkways to and from the point of use.

All inspections and changing of cylinders and gas lines must be done by someone familiar with this type of equipment. One of the team must be appointed the 'pot man' with direct and continuous responsibility for the safe management, temperature control and operation of the boiler, gas and associated equipment.

ENSURE THAT THE PUBLIC AND ANY ONE NOT DIRECTLY INVOLVED ARE KEPT WELL AWAY FROM THE EQUIPMENT. DO NOT SITE THE EQUIPMENT SO THAT IT CAN OVERFLOW OR SPLASH AND CAUSE DANGER.

PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT

Suitable personal protective clothing must be worn at all times. This includes full length heavy clothing, suitable footwear, face and eye protection and heavy safety gloves. Do not breathe smoke and fumes from the boiler as these may be a long term health risk. Ensure that any splashes do not come into contact with your skin. Bitumen splashes can also come from application of the material and you need protective clothing for your legs. Do not tuck your trousers into your boots - they could fill up with spilled material and do very serious harm to your legs. In summer it is very tempting to work in light clothing. Consider the risks before you do this - it could turn a minor incident into a major accident.

DO NOT BREATHE SMOKE OR FUMES FROM HOT BITUMEN ( OR THE VAPOURS GIVEN OFF FROM COLD APPLIED SEALANTS !) - THESE COULD BE A HEALTH RISK.

In the Middle Ages, hot pitch was used a as weapon – treat it with respect!

GAS CYLINDERS, REGULATORS & HOSES

BITUMEN BOILERS AND PLANT USE PROPANE GAS ONLY AT A PRESSURE OF 0 - 2 BAR.

USE ONLY ARMOURED HIGH PRESSURE HOSE.

These are available from us, factory assembled and ready to screw to the burner with all fittings. The regulator is adjustable and matched to the equipment we supply.

Propane ( orange ) cylinders only can be used with this equipment. Propane gas is considerably heavier than air and highly inflammable. It has a 'stench agent' added which gives a filthy smell to warn you of a leak.

All FARVIS boilers are designed to work at 0 - 2 bar ( 0 - 30 psi ) with an adjustable regulator. Thermostat controlled units must NOT exceed this or the equipment will be damaged. Some gas torches are supplied with a different regulator kit which should be replaced with an identical type if necessary. Torches have separate instructions.

There is an old wife’s tale that you can use a bitumen boiler burner without a regulator. This is absolute nonsense – you MUST have the correct regulator to

reduce the cylinder pressure before it enters the hose. This can NOT safely be done by using the control valve fitted to the cylinder.

Hose only - supplied as an option to special order.

All boilers and burner stands MUST be fitted with high pressure armoured gas hose ( i.e. with an exterior braid or metal spiral ) with a minimum length of 4 metres.

ORANGE HIGH PRESSURE HOSE WITHOUT METAL REINFORCEMENT IS NOT SUITABLE FOR USE WITH BITUMEN HEATING EQUIPMENT AND MUST NOT BE FITTED TO BOILERS. Drying off torches can use a heavy duty orange hose.

A leaking hose is extremely dangerous and a huge waste of fuel. All hoses MUST be to BS standard and MUST be replaced annually. We most strongly recommend that gas hoses are factory made with pre fitted screw ends.

Regulators and fittings deteriorate and the hose and regulator set should be considered a service item with a maximum life of 12 months. Depending on the use and condition this can be extended but for hard worked equipment the life should be considered as one year. We can provide a suitable regulator, hose and couplings set, assembled and ready to fit, as an accessory.

All gas connections and joints MUST be properly made and the equipment should be inspected before each and every use. All screwed connections should be firmly tightened with a spanner.

If the hose is damaged or covered in bitumen it MUST be replaced immediately and the appliance put out of service until this is done.

BURNER FITTINGS

Fittings for all FARVIS mushroom type burners and regulators are 1/4" BSP thread. Standard regulators have a 1/4" female thread on the body. We can supply a factory made hose and regulator set as an accessory. Some mesh burners and other units supplied without a pre made hose set may have a hose nozzle connector. In this case the correct gas pipe ( 1/4" in most cases ) must be connected with 'o' clip compression fittings. It is recommended that this is done by your dealer. If you order equipment at a later date, please specify the burner type and the type of gas fitting required

GAS CYLINDER SIZES

All Farvis products use PROPANE in an ORANGE cylinder. The fitting on all UK spec. cylinders & our regulator is known as a ‘POL’ type coupling.

Equipment. Use & weather conditions. Cylinder size.

Burner/Bucket stand intermittent use in warm weather 3.9 kg

Burner /Bucket stand continuous use or cold weather 15 or 19 kg

10 & 25 gallon boiler intermittent use in warm weather 19 kg

10 & 25 gallon boiler continuous use or cold weather 47 kg

25 & 50 gallon boiler high output or cold weather 2 x 47 kg

Tool Heater intermittent use all weathers 19 kg

Torches intermittent use 19 kg

Torches continuous use 47 kg

In humid and cold weather where a large off take is extracted, the cylinder will show frost on the outside. In small amounts this is not an issue but if the gas pressure begins to drop it indicates that too much gas is being taken for the ambient temperature and size of cylinder. In these conditions it is necessary to couple two cylinders together using a ‘pigtail’ fitting or preferably to change to a larger cylinder size. DO NOT heat the cylinder to liberate more gas – this is an easy way to the undertaker’s parlour.

If your appliance seems to ‘run down’ but if turned off for a while it recovers, this is usually an indication that your cylinder is too small for the job you are doing.

Please note that there are now regulations on how much gas you can carry in a vehicle and special precautions which need to be taken. Ask your gas supplier for details and a leaflet.

POSITIONING CYLINDERS

Cylinders must be a minimum of 10' from the boiler in the open air, away from any heat source and upwind of the boiler. They should be positioned so that any spill of bitumen will run AWAY from the cylinder. Make sure that the cylinder is large enough for your requirements.

Gas cylinders must be secured upright . The reason for securing upright is to prevent the cylinder falling over ( logical !! ) and this is why ......

....An LPG cylinder is filled with LIQUID PETROLEUM GAS - that is why you get so much gas in a small space - it has been liquefied. The gas in the cylinder remains liquid because it can't expand. In use, it literally boils off as the gas in the top of the cylinder flows through the regulator and is consumed by the burner. The upper part of the cylinder is filled with high pressure gas, while the lower part remains liquid. If you shake a cylinder when it is turned off you can feel the liquid sloshing about inside . A regulator reduces the pressure of the gas to a constant level and passes it down the gas pipe to the burner. The pressure in a cylinder is about ten times the pressure needed to run the appliance – that’s why there is a regulator.

.... IF THE CYLINDER FALLS OVER, instead of gas in the top of the cylinder, there will now be liquid and this will flow through the cylinder valve, into the regulator and down the pipe to the burner where it will come out as a violent jet of flammable liquid......... as soon as the gas reaches the open air, the pressure is reduced and it expands up to 50 times in volume. What was a steady flow of gas at controlled pressure will become an uncontrollable and expanding sea of flames that you can't shut off until it has burned away – which for a big cylinder might take a long time. This can be highly dangerous and worse still, as the gas expands violently you don't know where it is going to go. If it reaches the cylinder then things will go from very bad to horrendous. SO YOU MUST SECURE YOUR CYLINDERS! Think of a similar sized tank of petrol at 100 psi flowing down a garden hose pipe onto a lighted bonfire – that is the situation you would have.

For the same reason, always turn cylinders OFF before moving them. As the gas is heavier than air, cylinders of propane must never be stored or used indoors or below ground, or adjacent to a drain. Gas will find the lowest point and stay there until a spark sets it off as an explosion of flash fire.

You need a safety space of at least 3 metres between any cylinders and the boiler to protect them from heat and fire.

It is extremely dangerous to operate gas equipment in a position where you can't reach the gas cylinder or with an excessive length of hose. DO NOT OPERATE WITH THE APPLIANCE ON A ROOF AND THE CYLINDER AT GROUND LEVEL If something were to go wrong you would not be able to turn off the gas, and a long hose is a trip hazard with dire consequences if it is damaged or receives an unexpected impact or jerk.

POSITIONING THE BOILER

Regard should be given to spillage, fire fighting and evacuation when deciding where to put the boiler and safety equipment.

ALL LPG equipment consumes oxygen and emits carbon dioxide and has a naked flame. Considerable heat is radiated from a boiler, outward, AND downward and IT IS THUS ESSENTIAL THAT THE EQUIPMENT IS USED OUTDOORS AND IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA, WELL AWAY FROM FLAMMABLE SURFACES AND MATERIALS. It must have all four feet in contact with the ground and be secure and stable. Rocking or moving the boiler when in operation could cause a fire and this risk increases as the temperature rises.

Positioning a boiler is a largely a matter of common sense but there will be H&S and ITA requirements and every circumstance is different. You must also consider the safety of users, others on site and protection of the area around the boiler and associated equipment. There should be a 5 metre working area on all sides of the boiler and this must be kept clear of obstruction, passers by and flammable material. Heat will be radiated downward from the boiler and precautions must be taken to prevent damage to the surface. Do not arrange the job so that people carrying hot material have to pass close to each other.

Boilers must not be mounted on scaffolding or above a walk way. There must be no combustible material nearby and appliances must not stand on any flammable flooring or in a area which could be damaged by spilt bitumen or heat from the underside of the boiler or tray.

Often a few simple changes can greatly improve the safety of a job at no cost or inconvenience to the operators. If there are several people using the equipment, plan your walkways so that you don't get in each other's way and do not carry hot material anywhere it could spill and cause a danger. Any boiler can be fitted with a tap for safer pouring. Do not carry bitumen far if there is an alternative. If you do have to carry it any distance, do not let anyone else get too close. If possible avoid ladders and walkways and ask what would happen if bitumen in a bucket were to spill - what would happen to you - and to other people - in the middle ages, people defending a castle would pour boiling tar onto attacking soldiers, which shows how nasty the stuff is! Be very careful, plan your work in advance and when working with sealant, be steady, slow and deliberate.

ENSURE THAT CHILDREN CAN'T GET TO THE EQUIPMENT EITHER WHEN IT IS WORKING OR AFTER YOU HAVE GONE FOR LUNCH OR AT THE END OF THE DAY! MATERIAL MAY REMAIN HOT FOR MANY HOURS AFTER THE BURNER IS TURNED OFF EVEN IF THE SURFACE APPEARS SOLID, AND THIS IS ANOTHER GOOD REASON TO DRAIN DOWN AT THE END OF USE.

A thermostat is an aid to safety – it does not remove the need for all usual safety precautions – its not some kind of magic box !

Fire extinguishers, a bucket of sand, first aid and safety equipment should be in easy reach and accessible in the event of trouble. The unit must be positioned so that there will be no danger whatever to surrounding structures, equipment or buildings if the unit were to overheat, spill or catch fire. In the event of a spill, the bitumen must not be able to flow away from the boiler and do damage or run over an edge. Take special care to ensure that it can not run over the edge of a roof or into a drain or access way.

Hot bitumen gives off a white smoke. This should be kept well away from houses or open windows. Some people like the smell but others don’t and in concentrations it can be a health risk.

Do not light up or use the boiler in a vehicle or on the back of a wagon or anywhere in a confined space or where there could be danger from a build up of heat, fumes, exhaust gasses, gas or reflected heat from the underside of the casing.

Many contractors’ vehicles also carry diesel in cans and spare cylinders of gas. It is absolutely unacceptable to operate a boiler on a vehicle where it is anywhere near fuel or spare gas cylinders. Heat will be radiated by the boiler and there is a naked flame from the burner. Be extremely cautious if you use power driven equipment as there may be fuel and oil about and fuel cans or fuel tanks fitted to plant, could be overlooked. Also watch out for paint and flammable sealer.

Sudden movement of a working or hot boiler, even if the burner is not alight could cause an explosion and fire. This is important to remember particularly on mobile equipment.

From time to time we hear nightmare stories about contractors who light a boiler at the yard and then drive to site while melting down. Imagine what would happen in an emergency stop in a closed van if the liquid content of the boiler flew forward and hit the driver, - or the result of someone driving a trailer boiler full of hot bitumen and hitting a pothole.

IT IS ILLEGAL AND VERY DANGEROUS TO DRIVE ANYWHERE ON A PUBLIC ROAD WITH HOT BITUMEN, SEALANT OR A LIGHTED BURNER. THERE ARE NO EXCEPTIONS TO THIS AND AN ACCIDENT COULD EASILY RESULT IN A PROSECUTION FOR MANSLAUGHTER.

Please, before you move a hot boiler, turn off the gas and drain it down so that it can’t spill or do any harm – and remember that bitumen in the middle of the pan can still be liquid and very hot hours after the surface appears to be cold.

THE BEST SAFETY IS COMMON SENSE -

DON'T LEAVE YOURS IN THE VAN

BEFORE YOU START WORK

TURNING OFF

Know how to turn off before you turn on! In the event of trouble, turn the gas off at the cylinder - it's quicker.

After using the appliance it is of the UTMOST IMPORTANCE that the cylinder valve is closed first thus allowing the gas in the system to burn off. Any valve fitted to the appliance should then be closed to ensure that when the next time it is used, turning on of the cylinder valve does not allow gas to escape before being ignited.

TURN OFF WHEN NOT IN USE OR WHEN UNATTENDED - EVEN FOR A SHORT TIME.

BURNER INSTALLATION

REMOVE BURNER FROM BOILER CASING TO LIGHT

A bitumen boiler will consist of an outer casing, insulated and fitted with an inner steel liner to retain the insulation. There will be a pan and a lid. The burner will fit in a bracket under the boiler pan.

The burner is removed to light in case gas fumes build up as the gas is turned on and this flashes back through the door on lighting. This is the same for a thermostat or standard burner. Trying to light the burner in situ risks a serious accident.

The mushroom type burner is held in the bracket by two lugs. It may be necessary to tilt the burner slightly to get the head through the door. Then place the burner in the bracket and pull it back slightly to lock. If these lugs become bent they can be gently adjusted to shape.

Lighting procedure is detailed later.

SPILL TRAY

We strongly recommend a spill tray for every boiler. Various sizes are available to special order and you need a volume at least 30 % greater than your boiler. In use the boiler is placed inside so that if there is a material spill or a fire, the tray acts as a secondary container.- as well as keeping the site tidy. It is essential above ground level and anywhere where a spill could cause damage. It is a requirement that a boiler or other heating appliance on a roof or other structure MUST have a full capacity spill tray with a heat proof barrier underneath. This can be a bed of sand or similar non combustible material. Placing a lot of spare bitumen in the tray will reduce the capacity and obviously don't put a gas cylinder in it! A drip tray is a site tidy for ground level work and is not a substitute for the correct item.

When positioning the tray keep level, stable and well away from flammable material and structures. It is an aid to safety, but that doesn't absolve you from being careful! Watch that you don't catch the bottom of the bucket on the tray as you lift it away from the boiler!

SETTING UP

We can not even begin to cover all there is to know about using this equipment in a small leaflet and you should be aware of all the correct operating procedures before you start work. If you are not familiar, ask your supervisor, trade association or the local HSE for advice. We hope the following advice is helpful but it is not exhaustive, and is not intended to be.

Safety on site is a matter for training, common sense and good working practice. It is up to you to look after your equipment, and use it safely. If you don't, then no one else will! Use dry powder fire extinguishers of suitable size for the job and position them so that they are between the boiler and your escape route. There is no point in having extinguishers you can’t reach in the event of trouble so think about where they are best positioned for maximum access !

Members of the public and people not directly concerned with the operation must be kept well away from the appliance, associated equipment, hot sealant, walk ways and area of use. Of special importance is the safe operation near children, particularly as they may see the equipment and operatives as a source of entertainment! If the boiler is left on site at the end of the day, it should be secured and either drained or allowed to cool before being left. Gas cylinders must be stored so that they can not reached by unauthorised persons.

Before use, check over the entire boiler and your other equipment. This includes the obvious things like gas joints, hose and the regulator, but also boiler outlet valves, the integrity of the pan, the serviceability of your fire extinguisher, buckets, cans, protective equipment and clothing and all the other

bits and pieces you have on site. It is better to find out before you start than when you are half way up a ladder! If in doubt, fix it!

If the bottom of the boiler pan is badly flaking or bowed or if there are any leaks from the bottom edge, it is worn out and needs to be replaced. Continuing to use a worn out pan is a major safety risk and they are consumable items.

To connect the gas regulator pack to the burner, first check that the brass internal connection cone on both sides is clean and free from dust. Screw the captive nut onto the end of the burner finger tight. Wiggle the hose gently to seat the cone into the burner and tighten by hand. The hose should firm up in the union and not move. Be careful not to cross thread the nut! Then tighten the nut approximately 1/6 turn until it is very firm, but do NOT over tighten. Use a 5/8” spanner or a good quality adjustable spanner, NOT a pipe wrench to do this. If the nut tightens and suddenly becomes loose, as it is tightened further, you have damaged the fitting and will need to replace the assembly. It is a gas fitting, NOT a diesel fitting and you do not need to apply a huge force.

Burner injector and threaded union for hose connection ( ¼ bsp thread ).

To fit the regulator to the gas cylinder check for any damage or scoring to the regulator ‘POL’ cone and then remove any debris from the mesh gauze. Check the gas is off at the cylinder wheel. Remove the red plastic safety plug from the cylinder which must be safely secured upright as detailed elsewhere in this manual and again check for dirt and damage. Screw the regulator cone and nut into the cylinder fitting. The nut has notches to indicate it is a LEFT HAND THREAD for fuel gas. In other words, it screws the ‘wrong’ way – anti clockwise to tighten. Use a suitable adjustable spanner or Gas spanner to tighten the nut, NOT a pipe wrench. The nut needs to be firmly tightened.

Regulator showing POL cone fitting and reverse thread securing nut.

When you are ready to start work, your first job after lighting the burner is to check the gas cylinder and the burner/hose connection for leaks with soapy water.

At the start of every day always check that there is no leak of gas. Check the regulator, hose & connections at both ends on first use, after a cylinder change and regularly thereafter. Also look for cuts, damage and bulges and replace if there is any doubt about anything. Flame guns and other equipment which have gas joints other than the hose connection should be fully checked before first use and subsequently on a regular basis to detect damage or wear. Hoses should be changed every 12 months as a safety precaution.

Propane has a distinctive smell and a leak can sometimes be detected immediately but the best method is to mix a 50% washing up liquid and water solution and brush it over the joints. With the line pressurised you will start to see small bubbles appear from any leaks and these will build up like a fungus.

It sounds obvious, but don't let much gas escape while you are checking for leaks as this can be very dangerous. You have to use common sense and remember that as well as burning at the point of release, gas can build up silently in a dip or drain and explode later! It is not safe to use equipment with a leak as it could catch fire and either burn through the pipe to create a major incident or overheat the cylinder.

If there is a gas leak, turn the cylinder off at once. Extinguish all naked lights and if there is any chance than gas has built up in a closed area taking action to ventilate it. Warn anyone in the vicinity of the potential problem. Never look for a leak with a naked flame - trace it by smell and confirm with squeeze liquid and water. If necessary call the emergency services.

It is important to look after the equipment. That unfortunately means NOT chucking the regulator and burner on the floor or covering the hose in bitumen. In particular the 'POL' fitting on the regulator which screws into the gas cylinder is a precision gas tight joint and the regulator is a precision control unit. If it is covered in grit or dirt gets inside, it will leak or fail to control the gas pressure, or both, and that will cost money. It could also cause a serious accident. Likewise, rough treatment of a thermostat unit which allows foreign matter to get into the regulator will do serious damage to the control system which will cause failure of the entire unit and an expensive repair that is not covered by warranty.

After use, remove the regulator from the gas cylinder and wrap it in the plastic bag supplied to keep out any dirt. DO NOT throw it on the floor of the van and walk on it as this will damage the seals and introduce dirt into the fuel system that will cause trouble later. Replace the red safety plug in the cylinder outlet. Generally there is no need to remove the hose from the burner as doing so may let dirt get into the jet.

LIGHTING UP

The regulator gives operating control of the burner and heat output UP for lower pressure and lower heat output and DOWN to increase. In an emergency, turn off at the cylinder valve .Unless the burner is bolted in and fitted with a pilot light, YOU MUST TAKE THE BURNER OUT TO LIGHT – that includes boilers with a thermostat.

Have you checked that everything is safe ? Do you have all your safety and protective equipment? Do you know the temperature of your material?. Is there someone assigned to monitor the boiler and act as 'pot man'. Check the boiler again and also remove any build up of tar from the exhaust vent under the pan ring.

What is the correct temperature of your material – many operators have no idea and as a result the highly developed material is grossly overheated and soon fails – all down to overheating.

As a very general rule, standard grade sealing bitumen has a maximum temperature of 250 oC and specialised low temperature and polymer modified material must not go above 180 oC BUT YOU NEED TO CHECK.

You also need to have a thermometer to measure the temperature – you can’t guess it.

STANDARD FARVIS BOILERS WITH A ‘MUSHROOM’ OR ‘PETAL’ BURNER

Do not turn cylinder tap on. Remove burner from boiler and position upright or at a slight angle on the ground away from flammable substances. Check all unions, joints and pipes for leaks and damage. Close control tap on burner if fitted. When you or another suitably experience person are satisfied that all is in order, close the regulator control by screwing the 'T' bar or adjuster upwards. (Some types can come out of the regulator body but can be put back again as long as they remain clean and the regulator is leak tested afterwards).

Open the cylinder valve. There should be no gas escaping from the burner unit. Now screw in the regulator valve until some resistance is felt and then another one turn. Gas will now be flowing to the burner. If there is a loud hiss or a rushing sound, turn off the gas and lower the regulator pressure, let the gas disperse and try again. Apply a lighted taper or ignitor to the burner head at arms length and the burner should light cleanly at low pressure. If the burner does not light at once, turn off the gas and allow a while for the gas to disperse before trying again.

Never light the burner under the boiler as there will be a gas build up and a flash back through the door.

ALWAYS IGNITE BURNER OUTSIDE CASING AT MINIMUM GAS PRESSURE

UNITS FITTED WITH OPTIONAL FLAME FAILURE CONTROL & PILOT LIGHT.

We manufacture various types but all are generally similar in operation. Follow the previous instructions to permit gas to reach the burner unit, but first close the burner control tap ( yellow handle )

Press in the BLUE flame fail button. Do not place your hand over the air intake to the gas jet or near the head of the burner. There should be a slight hissing noise as gas reaches the pilot. If there is a loud hissing or rushing noise, release button at once and close the burner control tap. Ventilate the area and start again.

When the gas pressure is correct apply a lighted taper or long reach ignitor to the pilot burner head, remaining at arms length. Hold the blue button in for a few seconds to heat the thermocouple head and then release the button gently - the pilot burner will stay alight. Place the unit in the casing and when ready, gradually open the main burner control. The main burner will light.

If the flame is extinguished, the gas will switch off within approximately 15 -30 seconds, but his will still permit a build up of gas. Ventilate the area thoroughly before attempting to re-light and investigate the cause.

If the pilot will not stay alight, check the thermocouple head is just in the pilot flame - it should glow a dull red when fully heated - and that the connection to the valve is firm but do not over tighten. The pilot will need to prime for a few seconds before it lights on first use of the day and may shut off if it gets wet. This is a very delicate part of the equipment and MUST be treated with care.

The common cause of failure is on a Monday morning when the unit has been left out over the weekend and has got wet. It may be necessary to gently dry the back of the flame failure valve where the thermocouple screws in with an air line to remove any moisture. DO NOT use a water repellent spray as that is flammable ! DO NOT PLAY A FLAME ON THE UNIT TO TRY AND DRY IT !

Thermostat boilers have their own instruction leaflets and these must be read before any attempt is made to use the equipment.

BOILER OPERATION

DO NOT LEAVE A BURNER OR BOILER ALIGHT AND UNATTENDED AT ANY TIME – even if fitted with a thermostat.

All FARVIS bitumen boilers have an insulated and doubled skinned casing. This makes them much more efficient than old fashioned and uninsulated types. The boiler may heat faster than you expect and may need a lower gas pressure to simmer. This will give more economy in operation and lower fuel bills, but it may mean that the boiler gets hotter more quickly than you expect. With experience you will know how long your FARVIS Boiler will take to heat, but take regular temperature readings at all times and do not leave it alight if you have to leave it. What would happen if you were to be distracted and forget?

Overheating is a result of lack of care by the operator. Likewise thermostats are an excellent safety feature but do NOT absolve the user of responsibility for temperature control.

THE BOILER LID

THIS IS AN IMPORTANT PART OF THE BOILER AND A SAFETY FEATURE - IT IS NOT FOR DECORATION !

The lid has two main functions, the first being to seal the pan when not in use, and to act as a 'snuffer' if the boiler overheats and flashes up. It is important to ensure that gas coming from the material in the pan can escape and this is best done by leaving the lid partly or completely off the boiler when the burner is alight. Trapped gas can catch fire - if the lid is fully on during heating the gas may flash up or even explode if severely overheated. Ensure the lid is free and not stuck on with bitumen before you light up. Replace the lid if it is damaged or bent. The lid may seal to the boiler as the unit cools down but MUST be removed as the unit begins to heat up. Do not apply too much force or you may damage the lid.

LID LOCK

If a lid lock is fitted to the boiler it must NOT be locked on while the boilers is being heated or simmered. The purpose of the lock is ONLY to prevent the lid flying off in transit.

SPLASH REDUCING LOADING LID - option

If using a splash reducing lid, before recharging the pan, turn the burner off and let the heat dissipate for a few minutes. If there is any chance that the boiler was overheating or nearly empty , or if there was any evidence of brown smoke, do not recharge until the boiler is at a safe temperature. Ventilate the pan, then close the slider with the main lid open. Break the material up so that it doesn’t crash into the pan like something from the Dam Busters. Fill the hopper having regard to the amount of material in the pan already. DO NOT OVERFILL

Close the main lid, stand well clear and open the slider with a tool to release the material. Open the main lid again to permit the boiler to vent, leaving the slider open. Only operate the main burner with both slider and lid open. The boiler MUST be allowed to vent to prevent the build up of explosive gasses which might be trapped inside with the lid closed. Be aware that if you overfill, hot material may come out under the lid flange so stay clear when recharging the pan.

DE-COKING

De coke the boiler at regular intervals. This entails scraping any crispy or burned material from the sides and bottom of the pan. It MUST NOT be done by belting seven bells out of the bottom of the pan with a hammer. This will seriously damage the pan and may cause a leak. De-coke on a weekly basis and while doing this, check the pan bottom for deterioration and any serious bulging, flaking or blueing of the steel. Use ppe and goggles as the bitumen may shatter and fly off when you do this !

CLEANING EXHAUST VENTS.

All standard model Farvis boilers have a radial exhaust around the underside of the pan rim. This needs to be clear so that the burner can operate correctly. Normally the heat of the burner will maintain the gap, but if the unit is simmered for long periods or used at a low temperature , or in some cases if using a thermostat, the gap may block. If this happens, when the boiler is cold, mechanically remove any bitumen or clinker until the exhaust is fully clear. Use ppe and goggles as the bitumen may shatter and fly off when you do this !

Main lid - MUST be open when burner is alight.

Slider - MUST be open when burner is alight.

HEATING UP FROM COLD

Do not let bitumen harden in the pan after use or put in whole blocks as this will cause slow melting, possible overheating of liquid material , stress the pan bottom and will also make the boiler heavier to lift. Empty the boiler after each use to save time and gas when re-heating. This increases efficiency and lengthens the life of the boiler. Reheating a ‘solid’ pan of bitumen puts a huge stress on the pan bottom and will seriously shorten the life of your boiler.

When filling the boiler, break the sealant blocks into small pieces to increase the surface area. This provides faster melting. Do not overfill the boiler. How much you put in will depend on the job in hand but as a general rule the boiler should always be between one third and two thirds capacity. Never fill the pan to the brim as it could 'boil over' and give rise to a serious fire risk.

Operation with only a few inches of material in the pan will cause rapid changes in temperature and possible overheating. Full gas pressure should only be used when the boiler is reasonably well loaded and there is approximately 30% or more of the pan full of melted material. Do not throw material into a pan as this could splash and never lean over or into a bitumen container when hot. Do not try and heat sealant if there is water present, it may spit as it warms up. Adding water to a hot pan will cause foaming, a spill over and a possible explosion.

When first heating, you must remember that the sides of the pan will be a lot hotter than the material in the centre and during this time the thermometer or thermostat (if fitted) will not give a true reading. It is therefore important to allow the boiler to heat gently and not to turn the burner to full power and walk off! This also applies to a thermostat controlled unit that must be heated in stages until ALL the material is fully melted.

During this initial heating stage there will be material in the bottom of the pan which has not fully melted and there will be nothing to take the burner heat. By turning the burner to full before the material has fully melted, you risk a fire as the parts of the bottom with no liquid bitumen in contact have no way of dissipating the burner heat. Hence parts of the pan can be nearly red hot, while other sections will be much colder - and the bitumen material may still be cold in the centre of a solid lump. In this case the gas from the bitumen could catch fire before the bulk of the material even melts. In extreme circumstances this may flash up and cause a minor explosion in the pan which could blow the lid off and then catch fire. It is thus essential that the lid is NOT secured ( or in the case of a hopper lid system that the slider and lid are not closed ) so that gas and any pressure is not contained in the boiler pan.

During this stage neither a thermometer nor a thermostat will indicate a true reading and it is necessary to control the boiler manually.

OVERHEATING

If BROWN smoke appears from the boiler, or if it catches fire, turn the burner OFF at once as it has overheated and is about to flash up. Using extreme caution, approach from upwind and replace the lid so that it fully seals the pan, using a tool and at arms length. DO NOT move or rock the boiler at this could allow bitumen to come into contact with the overheated pan sides.

Remove the gas cylinder where possible and keep everyone well away from the boiler. Leave it for at least 30 minutes before raising the lid with a tool ( approach from the upwind side ) and exercise extreme caution at all times in case the vapour in the pan flashes up as oxygen enters the pan.

DO NOT COOL WITH WATER.

If the boiler is suspected of overheating, has been 'snuffed' or is producing grey or brown smoke, DO NOT remove the lid as this can permit air to enter the pan and to cause the boiler to flash up. In this case the lid MUST be left on until the material has cooled. Even after the smoke has stopped, the boiler pan could be too hot. The burner must be turned off at once and not simmered.

DO NOT move the boiler as any additional material splashing onto the sides of the pan could vaporise and explode. For this reason, do not move a boiler when it is at a high temperature or has been heating or melting down in the last 20 minutes.

DO NOT MOVE A STATIC BOILER UNTIL IT IS COOL AND DRAINED. NEVER APPROACH OR DRAW BITUMEN FROM A BOILER PRODUCING BROWN SMOKE - THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE. NEVER APPROACH AN OVERHEATED BOILER. LET IT COOL DOWN.

IF IN DOUBT - GAS OFF - STAY BACK.

If a fire develops that can not be immediately and completely extinguished, call the fire brigade at once. However the majority of heating up fires need not become serious if controlled immediately and can be quickly snuffed out with the lid. However a fire caused by overheating a full boiler is an extremely serious matter as it can get out of control very quickly and boil over. Spraying water at a hot boiler will generate huge amounts of steam. This could cause the lid to blow off and admit oxygen to the pan and actually cause a fire, or water may mix with the bitumen and cause the material to foam up and boil over.

AN OVERHEATED BOILER INDICATES POOR USER OPERATION

THE BITUMEN TAP ALSO KNOWN AS A ‘TREACLE VALVE’ OR DRAW OFF TAP

The FARVIS SAFETY TAP © is a specially developed tap for bitumen and hot sealants. It directs the material downward away from the operator and is self closing. Keep hands and feet away form the discharge. The safety tap is for use with standard and low temperature bitumen ONLY. It must NOT be used with filled materials such as anti skid sealant.

THE TAP HANDLE WILL BE HOT ! WEAR PROTECTIVE CLOTHING !

TYPE 170 FARVIS SAFETY TAP ( design copyright ) for bitumen and sealants.

TYPE 169 BANJO or GATE TAP for thermoplastic & filled material ( anti skid ).

We supply either of the above taps depending on the use or customer request. Type 170 is supplied as standard. Type 169 is available to special order at no extra cost. Mobile boilers and boilers fitted with long legs are designed to take the type 170 40mm vertical discharge tap or a 1.5" or 3" heavy duty '169' outlet gate tap. Before using the tap with sealant we recommend that you fill the boiler with cold water and see how the tap operates, how liquid will flow from the outlet and where you need to put the container. Pay particular attention to any splashes and overspill. ( don't forget to fully drain the boiler and tap of any remaining water before starting work!! ).

Even when using a tap you must wear protective clothing.

To fit tap, tighten firmly in an upright position and use thread paste or sealer if necessary. However the threads are self sealing and you can apply considerable force to the tap handle to tighten the tap. Check the tap remains tight as the boiler warms up. Do not re-tighten when the boiler contains hot material or the burner is alight. Position the valve so that the outlet spout or drip lip is at the bottom. Taps MUST be screwed in very tightly so that opening and closing does not alter the position of the tap body.

To operate the tap use a tool or gauntlet to operate the handle as it will be very hot in use. Do not open the valve further than necessary to pour safely. Outlet pressure will vary depending on amount in the boiler and also on the temperature. There may be a considerable head of pressure and hot bitumen may come out in a rush. Proceed with caution and take suitable precautions against splashes. Ensure that you have a container to collect the bitumen, this must be in the correct position to receive the flow and the rim or lid must be positioned so that it will not deflect the material onto the ground - or you!

Do not force tap. The gate valve has a self tightening action & it may be necessary to give the handle a small knock to open it but do not force when cold. A small amount of weeping is to be expected from this type of tap and is not a fault.

Do not poke anything into the outlet to encourage the flow - it may come out in a rush and burn you. The tap will be hot enough to use when the material in the pot is ready!

If the boiler is simmering or fitted with a thermostat, in cold weather you may find that the tap cools down and the material won’t flow easily. Having regard to the safe temperature of the material and boiler, a short burst of additional heat will soon warm the tap through before you return to simmering. Both types of tap can be heated gently with a direct flame if they clog up.

Be sure not to catch the edge of a can or bucket on the bottom of the tap as this could cause a spill.

GATE or BANJO TAPS will only need to be opened part way to obtain a good delivery! The flow comes out horizontally and may go some way from the outlet. Depending on the material, a 45 degree bend is available to direct the flow downward but this is not usually necessary with the thicker materials that this tap is designed to handle.

- BE AWARE THAT BITUMEN MAY SPLASH. -

- DO NOT POUR FROM AN OVERHEATED BOILER.

CHECK TAP CONDITION BEFORE USE - OUR EQUIPMENT IS VERY STRONG, BUT NOTHING IS INDESTRUCTIBLE!!

USE EYE PROTECTION

FLOW RATES VARY WITH BOILER CONTENT AND TEMPERATURE:

- CONTENT - HOW MUCH IS IN THE BOILER. - TEMPERATURE - AS BITUMEN HEATS UP IT FLOWS MORE EASILY. - VALVE POSITION - THE FURTHER YOU OPEN TAP THE FASTER BITUMEN COMES OUT. - ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS - WIND SPEED, POSITION OF BUCKET, AMBIENT

TEMPERATURE

- BEWARE OF A BOILER WITH LIQUID MATERIAL IN THE PAN AND NO FLOW THROUGH THE TAP – IT MAY SUDDENLY CLEAR AND COME OUT IN A RUSH.

- THERE MAY BE HOT MATERIAL IN THE PAN EVEN IF THE TAP IS COLD AND THE PAN SURFACE APPEARS SOLID !

Check the tap before every operation and do a full check daily. A small amount of leakage is expected from a tap and the boiler should be placed in a tray. Spare taps are available so do not wait for a breakdown or failure. The further you open the tap, the faster the material comes out, the further it will go and the more it splashes. Plan for this when you position the bucket - make sure that you are well clear !

A full boiler will have a higher flow rate - material will pour further away from the tap.

DO NOT hold the bucket and operate the tap at the same time! Put the bucket down and keep your hands and feet away!

Wind may affect the flow after it leaves the tap and possibly cause splashing. There is a section on wind speeds later in this manual.

To remove tap: drain the boiler first. Empty boiler completely and unscrew tap when it is still slightly warm. The tap needs to be open so that you can the handle as a lever to unscrew.

CAUTION : A solid surface in the pan may hide boiling bitumen behind the tap so the boiler must be completely empty. Bitumen forms a skin and an apparently 'solid' boiler may have hot & liquid material in the middle that could come out in a rush when the tap is opened or unscrewed.

After draining the pan, turn the tap OFF to prevent a spill when you next use the boiler.

Design copyright

HAND PADDLE MIXING

Design copyright

Reduce burner output to a simmer and wait at least 2 minutes before stirring.

You MUST have full protective clothing to operate the handle as you have to lean over the boiler.

If your boiler has been specified with this option there will be a crank handle protruding from the top of the boiler. The lid assembly will be bolted to the boiler. The paddles can be turned in either direction and should only be used with the lid closed. The handle will be hot.

Try and turn the paddles frequently if using a filled material to prevent build up of sediment. When operating the paddles ensure the boiler is stable and do not apply excessive force which might make it move about. Some units have a slide off half lid. Do not turn the paddles with the lid removed in case of splashes.

DO NOT TURN THE PADDLES IF THE BURNER IS AT FULL POWER OR THE BOILER HAS OVERHEATED. EXCESSIVE STIRRING MAY CAUSE A FIRE OR FLASH UP. WHEN MELTING DOWN, STIR GENTLY TO PREVENT SPLASHES.

Ensure the boiler is on a level surface and is not unstable. Don’t turn the handle so hard that you move the boiler or knock it over !

WHEN NOT BEING STIRRED AND AT ALL TIMES THE BURNER IS AT HIGH OUTPUT, THE LID MUST BE OPEN TO VENT THE PAN.

To clean, drain the boiler fully and allow to cool. Remove the securing bolts and lift out the paddle assembly. It may be necessary to GENTLY warm the pan bottom to release the shaft. Before refitting, clean out the central locating socket and check the pan bottom for damage and wear. Replace an shim washers between the shaft top and lid. Replace and tighten all fixings. If replacing fittings, ensure that you do NOT use nylock nuts. It is essential to use spring washers – nylock nuts will melt !

MEASURING THE TEMPERATURE

We can supply a purpose made asphalt and bitumen thermometer. 0 - 400 oC. Built from stainless steel it has a robust construction and an easy to read dial. The FARVIS probe thermometer has a sensor in the tip. Take the reading and when the temperature has stabilised on the dial, remove the thermometer.

Do not to come into contact with exhaust gases, bitumen or other parts of the equipment - they will be very hot! Wear full protective equipment. DO NOT LEAN OVER THE POT !

HOT BITUMEN CAN REACH 300 oC AND THE BOILER, BITUMEN AND COMPONENTS WILL BE HOT FOR A LONG TIME AFTER USE.

Some types of thermometer have a very sharp point for taking the temperature of asphalt. Treat these with extreme caution as they could injure someone!!!!

The temperature in different parts a boiler pan can vary by over 150oC and you will need to have all the material liquid before the temperature begins to stabilise. Using a mushroom burner, the hottest part of the boiler pan will be round the outer edge and the coolest towards the centre. With a petal burner the hottest part will be in the centre.

Place the thermometer tip in a suitable position to record the highest temperature and test various positions. Do not push it into solid lumps as this will give a false (low ) reading. Do not splash material up the pan sides. If the boiler appears to be very hot, turn off the gas and allow it to cool before trying to take the temperature.

If there is brown or grey smoke this indicates overheating. Suddenly removing the lid of a hot boiler or agitating the surface of the material could cause a fire if the boiler has seriously overheated. If you suspect that the boiler is overheating, do NOT lean over the pan or try to take a reading with a thermometer - common sense, but easily done! Let it cool first as detailed previously.

Know the working temperatures of your material. These will include a maximum , a pouring temperature and a working range. Do not overheat the material. A maximum temperature for most materials is 250 oC. Temperatures above this are extremely hazardous.

Some types, particularly rubber filled and polymer bitumen should be heated in an oil jacketed boiler as overheating will damage the chemical make up of the sealant leading to early failure. The correct figure should be supplied by the sealant manufacturer. It may be as low as 120 oC.

The temperature in different areas of the pan can vary greatly and what is low in one point may be much higher somewhere else, even in a small pan, so always test at several points.

THE TEMPERATURE PROVIDED BY THE MANUFACTURER OF THE SEALANT IS IMPORTANT. YOU CAN NOT JUDGE THIS BY ‘EXPERIENCE’. YOU NEED A THERMOMETER.

OVERHEATING YOUR MATERIAL IN THE BOILER OR APPLICATION AT THE WRONG TEMPERATURE CAN DESTROY ITS PROPERTIES. TOO MUCH HEAT CAN CHEMICALLY DAMAGE THE MATERIAL OR PREVENT IT STICKING TO THE SURFACE. THIS IS NOT OBVIOUS AT THE TIME – BUT IT CERTAINLY IS WHEN THE CLIENT’S WARRANTY CLAIM ARRIVES.

OVERHEATING THE BOILER WILL SHORTEN ITS LIFE AND IS VERY DANGEROUS. AN OVERHEATED BOILER IT THE RESPONSIBILITY OF THE OPERATOR.

NEVER LEAVE A BOILER ALIGHT AND UNATTENDED - ALWAYS HAVE A POT MAN.

A THERMOSTAT DOES NOT ABSOLVE THE OPERATOR FORM MAINTIANING FULL VIGILANCE OF THE TEMPERATURE AND BURNER OUTPUT.

HOT BITUMEN WILL BURN YOU AND IS HIGHLY FLAMMABLE - YOU NEED A THERMOMETER.

Ensure that your thermometer is recalibrated or checked against a calibrated thermometer every year and after any serious impacts or damage.

A thermometer is an accurate calibrated scientific instrument, not a tool to lever the lid off a cold boiler.

TOOL HEATERS

Design copyright

MOBILE TOOL HEATER

THE TOOL GRID IS A SAFETY FEATURE AND MUST BE IN POSITION BEFORE LIGHTING.

The purpose of the unit is to warm tools for easy cleaning and application. They will therefore get hot!

Tool heaters must be used with armoured gas hose and a 0 - 2 bar adjustable gas regulator.

Read the general advice and instructions relating to burners and gas! To light, remove the gas cylinder from the holder ( mobile option ). Follow the set up and pre lighting procedures for boilers. Light the burner by placing a lighted taper on the burner head and withdrawing your arm completely from the bin. Then turn on the gas supply gradually until the burner lights. If the burner does not light in a couple of seconds, turn off the gas, wait a couple of minutes to clear the gas and then repeat the procedure. Wooden handles will be damaged if left in the bin with the flame playing on them! When cool (not cold) you can scrape the bottom of the casing to remove deposits of chippings and tar. Do not let these build up or they may catch fire. The grid will stay hot for a long time as it is made of very thick steel.

Do not permit the burner to blow out on windy days. Never leave it unit alight and unattended.

CAUTION: in sunny weather it may not be possible to see if the burner is alight in the heater. Approach with caution. Very hot air will be generated by the unit and will vent from the open top of the bin. Tools heated in the bin will become very hot. Wooden handles may burn or be damaged!

CAUTION - IN BRIGHT SUNLIGHT YOU CAN’T SEE THE FLAMES INSIDE THE TOOL HEATER BIN !

MOBILE EQUIPMENT

TROLLEY BOILER TRAILER BOILER ( WITH OPTIONAL THERMOSTAT )

Design copyright

CHECK BALANCE BEFORE UNCOUPLING A TRAILER FROM THE VEHICLE

DO NOT TOW A TRAILER BOILER WHEN SEALANT IS HOT OR BURNER IS ALIGHT.

DO NOT TOW A TROLLEY BOILER ON A PUBLIC ROAD.

FOR USE AS STATIC PLANT THE GAS CYLINDER MUST BE REMOVED FROM THE UNIT.

IT IS ABSOLUTELY FORBIDDEN TO TOW A TRAILER ON THE ROAD WHEN BITUMEN IS HOT OR THE BURNER IS ALIGHT. YOU MUST DRAIN

DOWN BEFORE LEAVING THE SITE.

Trailer and trolley lid locks are intended to prevent the lid flying off in transit.

The boiler must NOT be operated with the lid lock in place as the pan can’t vent. This can lead to an explosion or fire.

Moving a hot boiler can cause a fire and bitumen can surge and overflow.

Legislation applies to trailers and towing. This is not covered in this handbook.

You must ensure that all lights and brakes and tyres are in GOOD condition The chassis should also be checked from time to time and all bolts and wheel nuts tightened as necessary. You should inform your insurance company that your vehicle tows a trailer.

FARVIS trailers are designed to have a gross weight of 750 kgs. Tyre pressures are 65 psi. The design is copyright.

Gas cylinders on mobile equipment should be removed before the burner is lit and the cylinder mountings used only for transport. In all cases where the unit is used as 'static plant', the cylinder must be removed and placed the regulation distance from the equipment. In some cases where the equipment is continually mobile this will clearly not be possible but in these circumstances the temperature of the gas cylinder must be monitored at all times and the boiler must not be left unattended at any time unless the gas supply is turned off at the cylinder. Units should not be subjected to rough handling when alight or hot and any movement must be with extreme caution to prevent surges and splashing.

All lids and doors must be latched closed before moving. Burners and thermostats must be removed for transport

When using a mobile boiler it is essential that the wheels are chocked and brakes applied before you start work. Trailers must have prop stands lowered and clamped

Although trailers are designed to be well balanced, by their nature, the weights at each end can vary. In the morning you may have full cylinders and an empty boiler. Later on you may have empty cylinders and a full boiler! This gives rise to differing weights on the hitch and rear of the trailer so NEVER assume the trailer is nose heavy when releasing the prop stands or uncoupling form a tow vehicle! Treat the unit with extreme caution as a change in angle may result in bitumen flowing off the top of the boiler or off the trailer deck. If it were to tip up, or hit a bump, the content could come over the top of the pan or if the boiler was hot, the surge could cause a

fire. It is thus essential that the burner is extinguished and the amount of material is below half full before moving the unit on site and that you are extremely cautious - do not go near the back of the trailer when it is being moved - moving a hot trailer boiler is something to be avoided if possible and done with great care if there is no alternative.

To check if the trailer is nose heavy and safe to move, raise the jockey wheel on the screw handle ( do NOT release the clamp) – if the trailer hitch drops and the jockey wheel stays on the ground you can carefully check how much nose weight is present to see if the trailer can be moved without overbalancing. If the jockey wheel comes off the ground during this test the trailer is tail heavy and is NOT safe to move – do NOT release the prop stands until there is approximately 50 kgs down force on the tow hitch.

The platform at the rear of a trailer is for the bitumen container. It is NOT intended as a place to stand as your feet would be under the tap outlet !

Plan your work so that the boiler is empty at the end of the day so that you don’t waste material draining down before you leave the site.

If using a trolley boiler, much of the above applies. It is easy to forget that bitumen is just as dangerous in a trolley boiler as in a static unit! Avoid operating on side slopes if the equipment has swivel wheels and watch for any road camber as the unit could run away. Use the brakes on BOTH wheels. There is a 10 mph maximum speed on all equipment not designed for highway use.

Keep wheel bearings and coupling assembly clean and well greased on all units.

Do not turn too sharply with a trolley boiler to prevent any risk of the tow handle catching on the tow vehicle and avoid sudden or violent manoeuvres and rough surfaces. Do not reverse the boiler into any solid objects. If this should occur check that you have not damaged the bitumen valve.

DO NOT try to lift or transport a boiler if it is hot or burner is alight.

Some trolley units have a central lift point, otherwise use the two front lifting points and the rear chassis corners. Remove the gas cylinder before lifting. Do not attach lifting slings to the boiler or boiler handles under any circumstances.

Lifting points for trailer boilers and mixer units are for use in the factory and for delivery and should not be used to lift a fully loaded boiler. They are NOT certified for lifting by the operator on site.

ACCESSORIES

SAFETY SPILL TRAY SPECIAL BITUMEN LADLE

POURING CAN – 3 GALLON V LIP BUCKET – 3 GALLON

We supply a range of accessories. These include pouring cans, buckets, heatable buckets, standard and safety ladles, joint shoes, spill trays ( to special order ) and a variety of other items.

Please note that all metal handles can become hot in operation, particularly after extended heating in a tool heater.

Galvanised pouring cans and buckets are NOT suitable for direct heating over a flame and while they may be warmed gently to remove deposits of hardened sealant, they must NEVER be placed directly onto a flame as they will burn through very quickly and sealant could run from the bottom! This could be very dangerous. The only type of bucket suitable for direct heating is a 'V lip compound bucket' with a heavy diffuser plate in the base.

The burner/bucket stand we supply is suitable for use with the heatable bucket ONLY. It should be set up in accordance with the information relating to bitumen boilers where applicable. It is NOT a picnic stove as it has an output intended for heating sealant. It also gets VERY HOT in use and should be allowed to cool before being moved.

The condition of every accessory should be checked when you do your daily equipment checks. Any equipment that is not in first class condition must not be used. In particular check handle security and fixings, spouts, bottoms and side seams and the general condition and security of the unit.

FARVIS HEATABLE BUCKET, BURNER STAND AND SAFETY HOSE & REGULATOR PACK

Design copyright

BURNER SET-UP

FARVIS ‘MUSHROOM’ BURNER

also known as the ‘TARGET IMPACT’ BURNER

FARVIS DESIGN COPYRIGHT FROM 1956 !

ALL FARVIS EQUIPMENT IS SET UP BEFORE IT LEAVES THE FACTORY, SO THIS INFORMATION SHOULD BE UNNECESSARY! HOWEVER WE INCLUDE IT AS THERE MIGHT BE A TIME DURING THE LIFE OF OUR EQUIPMENT WHEN IT MAY BE USEFUL!

GAS EQUIPMENT IS SAFE IF MAINTAINED CORRECTLY. DO NOT FIDDLE UNLESS YOU ARE SUITABLY QUALIFIED AND EXPERIENCED

IF THERE IS ANY DOUBT, PHONE YOUR GAS SUPPLIER OR FARVIS FOR ADVICE.

BASIC FAULTS AND CURES

Most 'faults' turn out be an empty cylinder or a blocked jet!

ALL OUR EQUIPMENT REQUIRES A 0 - 2 BAR ( 30 psi ) ADJUSTABLE REGULATOR AND ARMOURED GAS HOSE. IT MUST NOT BE USED WITH A 4 BAR REGULATOR AND WILL NOT WORK WITH A 37 OR 50 mBAR REGULATOR.

WE SUPPLY A FACTORY MADE HOSE AND REGULATOR PACK READY TO FIT TO THE GAS CYLINDER AND TO THE BURNER – ALL GAS HOSE JOINTS ARE FACTORY MADE AND SEALED.

Do not be tempted to use a low quality ‘cheap’ hose and regulator – it will cost far more in the long run with downtime, failures and lack of output. Our units are designed to pass the large volumes of gas needed to operate the burner correctly. Many low cost regulators and hoses can’t do this so the burner performance will be reduced for no obvious reason !

All burners are set up, adjusted and burn tested in the factory before dispatch. They should burn with a steady blue light without smell or the formation of soot. Yellow or lazy blue flames around exhaust vents are a sign of trouble and the equipment must NOT be used until adjusted or repaired by a suitably qualified person.

Each bitumen boiler is supplied with a matched burner. This will have a jet suitable for the size of boiler. Using a bigger burner is dangerous as the appliance can be swamped with gas which will not be fully burned and may create

dangerous carbon monoxide. It is therefore essential that the correct burner is used at all times and the data sticker on the boiler will have the jet size marked. You should note this in case spares are ever required. If in any doubt contact your dealer or the manufacturer for advice. If you are not familiar with gas equipment do NOT fiddle. Adjusting the burner should be done well away from flammable materials. The flames are powerful and you must exercise care. Before adjusting the burner check that there is gas in the cylinder, that the regulator is correctly adjusted and that the exhaust vents around the rim of the boiler are not blocked Also ensure that the gas hose has not been crushed or the couplings damaged and that there are no leaks.

CURRENT AVAILABILITY - BURNERS PRE ADJUSTED ( NO AIR WHEEL) .

Equipment built since 2008 has been supplied with a pre set burner that requires no adjustment during its working life. However a burner may still need cleaning as bitumen can easily stick to the end of the intake tube and reduce the airflow, causing the burner to operate with a smoky yellow flame.

Assuming no physical damage to the unit, all that is needed to maintain full efficiency is to clear any obstructions from the end of the air intake tube and possibly clean the jet.

PHOTO SHOWING BURNER INJECTOR AND PRIMARY AIR INTAKE. ARROW INDICATES GAP THAT MUST BE CLEAR OF SPILLED BITUMEN & DIRT AT ALL TIMES.

Turn off the gas and allow to cool. Disconnect the gas pipe. Unscrew and remove the brass jet holder, clean the jet with an air line or very thin piece of wire ( don't enlarge the hole). Check the jet is clear by holding it up to the light. Fully clear out the burner air intake and remove any debris inside the burner, taking care not to damage the screw threads on the brass injector or the mounting bracket. The position of the mounting bracket is critical, so don't bend it ( however it is made from 6mm steel so is reasonably strong).

Check the cone inside the end of the injector for scoring or damage and also the matching fitting on the hose end. These must be in good condition to form a gas tight seal.

Screw the injector back into the burner and tighten it firmly. ANY PACKING WASHERS MUST BE REPLACED.

Reconnect the gas line and check for a satisfactory flame. Be careful on lighting up as the flame output may be different ! The burner should now burn as in the picture below:

This burner is working correctly. There will be an area of intense heat above it that can't be seen. Check both ends of the gas hose for leaks with soapy water as previously described I this manual. The yellow flame on the lower right is an optional pilot burner.

LEGACY BURNERS WITH AN ADJUSTABLE AIR WHEEL OR AIR NUT

PROBLEM. Low output from burner . No power at high pressure and will not stay alight at low pressure. Slow to heat up. Possibly burner will not light at all. Generally boiler is slow to heat up. No hissing sound as gas passes into burner.

CAUSE. gas not reaching burner.

CHECK. the gas line is not damaged or crushed at any point. Gas in cylinder? Cylinder valve ON?

ALSO

Do you have the correct regulator? You MUST have an adjustable O-30 psi ( 0 - 2 bar ) gas regulator fitted to the gas cylinder. Ensure that you can obtain the full adjustment and that the thread of the pressure adjusting screw is not

damaged or obstructed. Pressure adjusting screw should screw right down to the stop wheel or stop nut which in turn should be at the top of the thread against the 'T bar' so that the actual screw can be screwed fully into the regulator. Remember, SCREW DOWN to Increase pressure and UP to decrease. ( N.B. Some thermostat regulators are pre set but these come with separate instructions).

REMEDY. If none of the above, you have a blocked jet. A confirming symptom is that if you turn the gas off at the main cylinder valve, the burner will take a few seconds to die back. Clean through with compressed air or a bristle.

A firm tap to the main burner body will sometimes clear the blockage which can then be shaken out of the jet holder through the open end where the gas pipe fits.

PROBLEM. Burner blows out at high pressure, squeaks, pops and is difficult to light. At full power the flame burns away from the burner head. flashes and suddenly goes out. Easy to blow out in any wind or draught. Unsteady, roaring flames creating a lot of noise and not much heat. In extreme cases flame may burn inside burner tube.

CAUSE: Weak mixture

REMEDY. Richen air/gas mixture. Unscrew brass locknut or lock screw, screw burner air-wheel INWARDS to reduce amount of air reaching the burner. Adjust until flame is a blue flame (at full pressure) with the seat of the flames under the burner head. Tighten locknut to hold air wheel in place. It may help to use a screwdriver to lock the air wheel while the nut is tightened.

PROBLEM. A yellow burner flame, possible soot, smoke and smell. slow to heat up and bad fuel consumption. Burner will not 'roar' at full power. Flames have a yellow tinge. Generally gutless.

This is a really bad case of an over rich mixture and could be caused by bitumen blocking the open end of the burner tube at the brass injector end.

CAUSE: Rich mixture or blocked primary airways.

REMEDY. Check for bitumen spilled over the end of the burner. Remove any material which is blocking the air intake at the gas pipe end of the burner tube. The tube should be completely clean and there should be a space between the air wheel and the burner tube. It this does not improve matters, weaken air/gas mixture. Unscrew brass locknut. Screw burner air wheel outwards to increase amount of air reaching burner. Adjust until flame is a blue flame (at full pressure) with the seat of the flames under the burner head. Tighten locknut to hold air wheel in place. It may help to use a screwdriver to lock the air wheel while the nut is tightened.

PROBLEM. Thick yellow flames in firebox and blue 'Lazy' secondary flames inside the fire box and possibly around the exhaust vents under the pan rim. Burning back from the burner port. Burner may lack power in the fire box but burns well in the open. Possible ‘sweet’ smell and soot.

.

REMEDY. CAUTION. You may have the wrong burner for your boiler or there is a problem with blocked exhaust or airways and the unit may be producing carbon monoxide gas. This is very dangerous and you should stop using the boiler at once and telephone your dealer or the manufacturer for advice. This is very unlikely but occasionally occurs on old equipment which has had a different type of burner fitted later. DO NOT CONTINUE TO USE IN A CONFINED SPACE. Operating at pressures in excess of 30 psi / 2 bar may produce a similar effect.

A separate information sheet accompanies mesh gauze burners and torch kits as these require a different adjustment procedure.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

BAG PACKED HOSES/REG SETS ARE READY TO FIT TO THE BURNER AND REQUIRE

NO FURTHER ASSEMBLY

BOILERS FITTED WITH A 2" BSP TAP SOCKET CAN USE THE SAFETY TAP IF A CONVERTER BUSH IS FITTED - WE CAN SUPPLY THIS.

OIL JACKETED BOILERS – THERMOSTATS – JOINTING TOOLS

These have separate information sheets. DO NOT use without reading this first !

An oil jacketed boiler must NOT be used for heating standard bitumen as the oil temperature required will be in excess of the maximum safe operating temperature.

DO NOT EXCEED A JACKET OIL TEMPERATURE OF 250 oC AT ANY TIME.

All products and information copyright 2013 for UK use only.

Farvis Ltd - Farvis Boilers Ltd - Chiltern Technical Systems

MANY THOUSANDS OF CONTRACTORS HAVE EARNED THEIR LIVING WITH OUR EQUIPMENT SINCE WE INVENTED THE GAS FIRED BITUMEN BOILER IN 1956.

FARVIS MANUFACTURE TO A HIGH STANDARD USING QUALITY MATERIALS AND WORKMANSHIP. WE DO NOT BUILD 'DOWN TO A PRICE' AS WE BELIEVE THAT SAFETY, QUALITY AND PERFORMANCE ARE VITAL FOR YOUR WELL BEING AND PEACE OF MIND. OUR EQUIPMENT SHOULD BE CONSIDERED AS 'PLANT' OR CAPITAL EQUIPMENT. IT IS NOT DESIGNED TO DO A FEW JOBS AND BE SCRAPPED BUT TO CONTINUE OPERATING ECONOMICALLY AND EFFICIENTLY FOR A LONG TIME. THEN, WHEN YOU EVENTUALLY COME TO REPLACE YOUR EQUIPMENT WE HOPE UNIT WE HOPE THAT YOU WILL BUY FROM US AGAIN.

USE ONLY FARVIS GENUINE SPARES AND ACCESSORIES.

FARVIS PARTS FIT FARVIS EQUIPMENT

DON'T ORDER NON GENUINE SPARES AND FIND THEY WON'T FIT WHEN YOU NEED THEM !

DO YOU NEED A THERMOSTAT ?

THE CTS ‘PROPAMISER’

Design copyright . British design. British made.

Improves safety.

Provides higher quality material.

Save up to 30% of gas used.

Automatic temperature control.

Built in flame failure shut off

Temperature gauge

Gas pressure gauge.

Adjustable 70 degree operating range.

All units hand built.

Each Propamiser has a 5 hour operating test with computerised logging.

Robust slide out tray contains control box and burner.

Supplied with armoured gas hose and regulator pack. (When supplied with boiler)

Farvis boilers are specially matched to the Propamiser and are available at a cost that is considerably lower than imported types.

These are built specially by us for our equipment. They use standard burners with a high output that are reliable and very difficult to block. All parts can be serviced in our works or a service exchange unit supplied.

They are not imported but made in the UK, - thus we can service and repair them.

Please contact us for details.

SAMPLE

SAMPLE

SAMPLE

BURNERS, GAS APPLIANCES & EQUIPMENT SUPPLIED FOR O.E.M. USE OR AS SPARE PARTS FARVIS BURNERS MUST BE COMMISSIONED BY A REGISTERED AND COMPETENT LPG FITTER UNLESS IT IS A DIRECT LIKE FOR LIKE REPLACEMENT FOR A FARVIS BURNER IN A FARVIS BOILER. ALL EQUIPMENT & PARTS ARE FOR INDUSTRIAL USE ONLY It is a condition of supply that all gas equipment including burners / gas assemblies / control systems are ordered and supplied as spare parts for an industrial process. This is clearly stated on our web site and is the only condition on which we can sell our burners as they are not covered by European ‘CE’ marking. FARVIS LTD & FARVIS BOILERS LTD are industrial supply companies and we do not deal with domestic customers, although many of our industrial customers pay using a private debit or credit card. If you purchase from us it is on the understanding that you are intending to use the equipment for industrial use and where required by law have access to suitable expertise to ensure safe installation, commissioning, operation and maintenance. It is for this reason that we do not supply fitting instructions – your CORGI maintenance fitter or installer will be aware of all necessary checks and safety issues and you must not attempt this yourself unless suitably qualified. It would be prohibitively expensive to provide CE marking for small production batches and thus we can only sell on the understanding that the unit is strictly for ‘industrial use in an industrial setting’. Obviously we have no control over the final use of the equipment but you should be aware that operation of unmarked equipment in other than industrial process use may cause insurance & other issues and may require you to have your equipment CE marked before it can be used. RETURNS All our equipment is made to specific order and we are unable to accept returns. Our terms, conditions and warranty are available from our web site www.farvis.com. Please note that where we do agree to accept a unit back into stock, it has to be unused, in pristine condition and will be subject to an inspection, handling and restocking charge plus outward and return carriage costs. Gas regulators/hoses that have been fitted and show any marking on the hose, fittings or POL cone can NOT be exchanged.

Because you are buying industrial equipment that is specially made for your specific order , domestic sales laws and regulations may not apply and you are not covered by the Distance Selling Regulations, even if you pay by a private credit card. We do not operate a system whereby you can purchase the unit and then return it if it isn’t suitable. All items are built and finished to a specific order and are not a ‘stock’ item. THIS EQUIPMENT IS INTENDED FOR USE WITH INDUSTRIAL EQUIPMENT IN AN INDUSTRIAL SETTING USING LP PROPANE GAS AT A BURNER INPUT PRESSURE OF 0 – 2 BAR IT WILL NOT WORK ON 28, 37 or 50 mb ‘domestic’ gas pressure – if you unsure about this statement, then speak to your gas fitter before you order.

EXTRACT FROM TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF SALE AS PUBLISHED ON OUR WEB SITE

All sales are made subject to our terms and conditions which are available on request. These override any conditions applied by a purchaser. The price of our products is based on the purchaser's acceptance in full of our terms and conditions of sale. If you wish to vary any aspect of our terms and conditions, please advise us prior to purchase so that we can determine if the sale can proceed and if there are any changes to price as a result. Our standard warranty is 90 days from date of dispatch or delivery to customer's agent and specifically excludes transport charges to or from our works for repair or examination. Equipment returned under warranty will be replaced or repaired at our discretion but carriage to and from our works is specifically excluded and the price charged for equipment reflects this condition of sale. Physical damage, damage from excessive heat, incorrect gas supply , blocked jets and damaged piping is specifically not covered by warranty. Armoured gas hoses, gas regulators and thermocouple components are consumable items and should be replaced on a regular maintenance schedule. It is a condition of sale that we are not liable for any form of consequential liability including that arising from failure of equipment, loss of use, non delivery or failure to deliver within or at a given time. Thermostat control systems are sold on the understanding that they are not left unattended and that the user accepts responsibility for ensuring the safety and correct operation and functionality of the equipment at all times it is in use. Farvis Ltd accepts no liability whatsoever for the failure in operation of temperature control equipment or any damage resulting from any form of malfunction or failure. Farvis is a registered trade mark. All equipment is for industrial use only and has no domestic or commercial uses. All equipment is supplied to customer specific orders for industrial use and as such returns are not normally accepted. Any returns for whatever reason are at the sole discretion of Farvis Ltd and outward and return carriage and restocking charges apply in all cases. Equipment that has been used or connected to a gas cylinder can not be exchanged. As the equipment is made to special order it is not subject to distance selling regulations. All sales are governed by English Law and deemed to have been made at our sales offices in England.