Quality Testing

Finishing

Coloration

Weaving

Weaving Preparation

Fabric Construction

Spinning

Spinning Preparation

Fiber

Fiber

Spinning Preparation

Plucker in the Blow Room

Carding

Drawing-In

Spinning

Fabric ConstructionTypes of Fabric Construction

Woven fabric is made from two sets of yarns, a horizontal set and a vertical set, which are interlaced to make fabric.

Knitted fabric is made by interlooping (loops of yarn that are locked together) yarn.

Non- woven Fabrics are made by forming fibers into a wad or web like structure, which are then layered one on top of another. The layers are bonded by applying pressure, moisture, heat, chemicals or specialized mechanical techniques such as needling which entangles the fibers together using barbed needles.

Weaving Preparation

Warping

Sectional Warping Back Beam Warping

'Ball Warps' Awaiting Dying Warp Yarns after Dying

Long Chain Beaming Sizing

Weaving

Drawing- In

ColorationDYESAre water soluble molecules which combine both chemically andphysically with the textile fibre molecules, and actually penetrate thesurface of the fibre.Certain classes of dyes are attracted to particular fibres, and thefollowing dyes are used in dyeing cotton:• Reactives - possibly the most commonly used: it gives a bright shade

on cotton • Vat - used for the indigo dyeing of denim and viscose fibre • Direct - a cheap, colour fast dye • Acids - one used for dyeing protein fibres such as wool and nylon PIGMENTSAre not water soluble and do not combine with any particular fibre type.Pigment particles are bound to the fibre surface by binding agents(resins). The binder, rather than the pigment, unites or combines withthe fibre.

FinishingFinishing is the general term for a multitude ofprocesses and treatments which a fabric mayundergo after it has been woven or knitted anddyed or printed. It is the final processing of thecloth and its purpose is to make the fabric suitablefor its intended end use. That may mean makingthe fabric shrink proof, softer, soil resistant, stiffer,water repellent or crease resistant, or acombination of these and many more.

Textile Finishing

Multitude of processes and treatments given to fabric after they are knitted or woven and dyed

or printed.

↓Purpose is to make the fabric suitable for its

intended end use.

↓E.g. Shrink Proof, Softer, Soil Resistant, Stiffer,

Water repellant, or crease resistant etc…..

Classification of Finishes

Finishes

Permanent Finishes

Durable Finishes

Semi-Durable Finishes

This finishing doesn't alter throughout the

life of fabric. E.g. Pleating

Temporary Finishes

Last throughout lifetime but effectiveness

diminishes after each Cleaning. E.g. Super Wash

Pullovers

Last through several laundering and

many are renewable in home laundry.

E.g. Fire resistance in Nightwear

Diminishes by first time an article is

laundered or dry cleaned.

Preparatory TreatmentsSINGEING

Fabrics are passed very quickly over a row of gas flames or between heated metal plates.

↓For Cotton/polyester blends done at preparatory

stage, as it causes globules pf melted polyester fiber to form.

DESIZING. Sizes are chemical compounds added to warp yarns

to provide them sufficient abrasion resistance to withstand stresses to weaving.

↓This is the process of removal of size to allow

colorants and finishing chemicals to penetrate into fibers

SCOURING Cleans Impurities from fabrics containing cellulosic fibers

( e.g. Cotton)

↓Fibers exposed to solution of Sodium Hydroxide and

Detergent

↓Steamed and rinsed

MERCERIZINGImproves dye uptake, stiffness, strength and absorbency.

↓Fabric is placed in cold Alkaline Solution of Sodium

Hydroxide (18-27%).

↓Fabric is rinsed and given cold acid bath to neutralize any

remaining alkali.

↓Prevents shrinkage and develops luster.

STENTERINGMechanical straightening of fabrics.

↓Dry the fabric

↓Stabilize .i.e. set the width

↓Cure any finishes/ resins imparted to the fabric.

SKEW The effect of skew with twill fabrics finished with

the weft yarn at right angle to the selvedge is that the leg twisting occurs in jeans during

garments washing.

PRE-SHRINKING/ SANFORIZINGDone mainly for Denim garment because denim

shouldn't become baggy with use.

↓Small amount of shrinkage to be left in the fabric.

↓Shrinkage should be a known and consistent value.

↓Shrinking is done on the Sanforizing Machine.

FLAME RETARDANTDegrees of resistance to Fire Fireproof Fabrics: Total resistance to destructionby fire Flameproof Fabrics: may degrade with prolongedexposure to flame or high temperatures. Flame Retardant Fabrics: Self-extinguishing

without excessiveflame.E.g. of Textile FinishesBaypret: Anti Crease.Synthappret: Anti Felting Finishing.Baylan: Helps to dye wool without boilingBayguard: Protection against stains and dirt.

Quality TestingFor testing the quality of the fabric various test are carriedout in the lab like fastness test etc.. and also undertakedevelopment work in the laundering of denim fordifferent finishes, these can be: Testing Laundry Abrasion Localized Abrasion Change Of Shade Effects Bleaching

Man made fabrics are created by “EXTRUSION” : forcing a thick, viscous liquid through tiny holes of a device called a ‘Spinneret’ to form continuous filaments of

semi-solid polymers.

1. SPINNERET

• Shower head like structure• Tiny openings and made

from expensive corrosion

resistant metals.

2. SPINNING

The process of extrusion

and solidification of

endless filaments is called

spinning.

Types Of Spinning1. WET SPINNING

Fiber-forming substances dissolved in a solvent.

↓Spinneret submerged

in Chemical Bath↓

Filaments emerge, precipitate from the solution and solidify.

↓E.g. Acrylic, Rayon,

Aramid, Spandex, Modacrylic

2. DRY SPINNINGSolidification achieved by evaporating the solvent in a stream of air or inert gas.

↓Filaments don’t come in contact with precipitating liquid.

↓E.g. Acetate, Triacetate, Acrylic, Modacrylic, Spandex, Vinyon etc…… 3. MELT SPINNINGFiber Forming Substance melted

↓Extruded through spinneret

↓Solidified by Cooling

↓E.g. Nylon, Olefin, Polyester, Saran & Suran

3. GEL SPINNING Used to obtain High strength or other special fiber properties.

↓Polymer Chains bound together in liquid crystal form.

↓Filament passed through air

↓Cooled in a liquid bath

↓E.g. Polyethylene, Aramid

MANUFACTURING PROCESS OF NATURAL FABRICS

Harvesting and cleaning the Fiber;↓

Carding it and Spinning it into threads;

↓Weaving into cloths;

↓Sewing the cloth into clothes.

Picking is removing of foreign matter (dirt, insects, leaves, Seeds) from the fiber

PICKING By Hand By Machine

CARDING By Hand By Machine

Carding is combing the fibers to align and join them into loose rope called “ Sliver”

SPINNING By Hand By Machine

Spinning is twisting of the fibers resulting yarn on a Bobbin.

WARPING By Hand By Machine

Warping is gathering yarns from a number of Bobbins and winding them close together on a reel or spool.

WEAVING By Hand By Machine

Weaving is the final stage in making cloth, which is done on a loom.

BudgetingLAUNDERING COST OF HOTEL ROOMSNo. Of Rooms in a Hotel = 300 roomsOccupancy Percentage= 70 %No. Of Rooms Occupied= 245 roomsPar Stock Maintained= 3.5LAUNDERING COST OF BED LINENLaundering Cost of Bed Sheets4.5*2 =9 Rs.9* 245 (rooms occupied)= Rs.2,205Landry Cost of Pillow Cover1.75* 2= 3.50Rs.3.50* 245(rooms occupied)= Rs.857.50Laundry Cost of DuvetRs.10*245(rooms occupied)= Rs.2,450Laundry cost of Bed CoverRs.25* 245(rooms Occupied)= Rs.6,125Total Laundering Cost for 245 rooms at 70% occupancy of Bed linen = Rs.11,637.50

BudgetingLaundering Cost Of

Hotel RoomsNo. Of Rooms in a Hotel = 300 roomsOccupancy Percentage = 70 %No. Of Rooms Occupied = 245 roomsPar Stock Maintained

= 3.5

LAUNDERING COST OF BATH LINEN Laundry cost for Bath Towel4*4= 16Rs.16* 245(rooms Occupied)= Rs.3,920Laundry Cost of Hand Towel1.75*4=7Rs.7*245(Rooms Occupied)= Rs.1,715Laundry Cost of Face Towel0.50*4=2Rs.7* 245(rooms Occupied)= Rs.490Laundry Cost of Bath Mat2.25*2=4.50Rs.4.50* 245(rooms Occupied)= Rs.1,102.50Total Laundering Cost for 245 rooms at 70% occupancy of Bath

linen = Rs.7,227.50Total Laundering Cost for 245 rooms at 70% occupancy of a Room

= Rs.18,865

Laundering Cost Of Bed Linen•Laundering Cost of Bed Sheets 4.5*2 =9

Rs.9* 245 (rooms occupied) = Rs.2,205

•Landry Cost of Pillow Cover 1.75* 2 = 3.5Rs.3.50* 245(rooms occupied) = Rs.857.50

•Laundry Cost of DuvetRs.10*245(rooms occupied) = Rs.2,450

•Laundry cost of Bed CoverRs.25* 245(rooms Occupied) = Rs.6,125

Total Laundering Cost for 245 rooms at 70% occupancy of Bed linen = Rs.11,637.50

Laundering Cost Of Bath Linen•Laundry cost for Bath Towel4*4= 16Rs.16* 245(rooms Occupied) = Rs.3,920

•Laundry Cost of Hand Towel 1.75*4=7Rs.7*245(Rooms Occupied) = Rs.1,715

•Laundry Cost of Face Towel 0.50*4=2Rs.7* 245(rooms Occupied) = Rs.490

•Laundry Cost of Bath Mat 2.25*2=4.50Rs.4.50* 245(rooms Occupied) = Rs.1,102.50

Total Laundering Cost for 245 rooms at 70%

occupancy of Bath linen

= Rs.7,227.50

Total Laundering Cost for 245 rooms at 70% occupancy of a Room

= Rs.18,865

Budget Of Room Linen

UPHOLSTERY

Cost of Dbl Seated Sofa

Rs.950

Cost of Chairs With Armrest

Rs.600

Cost of Chairs w/o Armrest

Rs.450

Total Cost of Upholstery Rs.2000

Linen Item Cost* Required No

Total Cost * Par stock

Total Amount

Linen Item Cost* Required No

Total Cost * Par stock

Total Amount

BED LINENCost of Bed Sheets Rs300* 2 =

Rs.600Rs.600* 3.5 = Rs.2100

Cost of Pillow Covers Rs.125*2= Rs.350

Rs.350*3.5= Rs.1225

Cost of Duvet Rs.4000 Rs.4000*3.5= Rs.14000

Cost of Bed Cover Rs.6000 Rs.6000*3.5= Rs.21000

Total Cost of Bed Linen Rs.38325

BATH LINEN

Cost of Bath towel Rs.350*4= Rs.1400

Rs.1400*3.5= Rs.4900

Cost of Hand Towel Rs.175*4= Rs.700

Rs.700*3.5= Rs.2450

Cost of Face Towel Rs.75*4 = Rs.300

Rs.300*3.5= Rs.1050

Cost of Bath Mat Rs.200* 2 = Rs.400

Rs.400*3.5= Rs.1400

Total cost of Bath Linen Rs.9800

Linen Item Cost* Required No

Total Cost * Par stock

Total Amount

Total Cost of Bed Linen Rs.38325

Total Cost of Upholstery Rs.2000

Total cost of Bath Linen Rs.9800

Total Cost of Room Linen

Rs.50425

Cost Analysis of Bed Linen of Hotels

8140

11000

8730

14050

8954

02000400060008000

10000120001400016000

ITC(M

)

JW(M

)

Mer

idien

(A)

Oberoi(

M)

Taj(A

)

Bed linen

Cost Analysis of Bath Linen of Hotels

540

1150955

1455

360

0200400600800

1000120014001600

Bath Linen

Cost Analysis of Upholstery of Hotels

400

600700

750

400

0100200300400500600700800

Upholstery

Laundry Cost Analysis of Bath Linen of Hotels

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

ITC(M) JW(M) Meridien(A) Oberoi(M) Taj(A)

ITC(M)JW(M)Meridien(A)Oberoi(M)Taj(A)

Laundry Cost Analysis of Bed Linen

55

41.25

55 53

30

0

10

20

30

40

50

60

ITC(M)JW(M)Meridien(A)Oberoi(M)Taj(A)

Laundry Cost Analysis of Upholstery of Hotels50

41.25

55 53

35

0

10

20

30

40

50

60

ITC(M)JW(M)Meridien(A)Oberoi(M)Taj

Guest Questionnaire Analysis

Bed Linen

Upholstery

Bath LinenNaturalSynthetic

Blended

0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5

5

Analysis of Fabrics Preferred

0

1

2

3

4

5

EHK GUEST SUPPLIER

NaturalSyntheticBlended