fabric training for retail staff

PRODUCT TRAININGFabric Basics

MODULE – 2A

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar 2


They are slender thread-like structures that

can be spun into yarns and thread, and woven, knitted or felted into materials.

FIBRES


There are two types of fibres used in making

textile products – those that come from the natural environment and those that are manufactured called man-made fibres.

Fibre Classifications


Sources of natural fibres Cotton from the cotton plant Linen from the flax plant Wool from sheep Silk from silkworms

Natural Fibres


Natural Plant Fibres

Cotton – King of fibres

Linen

Ramie Jute Hemp Pineapple Coir Banana Kapok Bamboo


1. Sea Island Cotton

2. Egyptian Cotton

3. Pima Cotton

4. American Upland Long Staple

5. American Upland Short Staple

6. Asia Short Staple

Varieties of cotton


It is soft It absorbs moisture It wrinkles easily It is strong It “breathes” It is comfortable It is durable It has good colour retention if dyed at the fibre stage It is easy to print on and requires heavy ironing It is easy to care for, easy to wash It is a natural resource that is fully renewable

Properties of Cotton


It is the strongest of the vegetable fibers. Known for the coolness and freshness in hot weather. It is smooth and gets softer the more it is washed. It has a high natural luster. It is strong and durable and dries quickly It has poor elasticity

Properties of Linen


Natural Protein Fibers

Wool Silk

Mohair Cashmere Camel Alpaca Llama Vicuna Musk Ox - Qiviut Angora


Camel Hair Qiviut Vicuna Merino Alpaca Mohair Llama Angora Cashmere Cashgora

Types of Wool


Warm and comfortable to wear Wrinkle resistance Good resiliency when dry Good drape and elasticity Damaged by chlorine bleach May shrink unless treated Looses strength when wet Shows pilling effect Poor lustre and expensive Felting of wool

Properties of Wool


SILK

Types of Silk

Mulberry Tasar Oak Tasar Eri Muga

Types of Silk fabrics

Charmeuse Crepe de Chine or

CDC Filament silk Georgette Habutai


Most lustrous and luxurious. Lightweight and water absorbent. Good dye ability with rich colours. Stronger and moderately wrinkle resistant. Excellent drape and luxurious hand Expensive. Damaged by chemical exposure. Looses strength when wet. Silk treated with formaldehyde shows high strength,

higher resistance and reduced solubility to chemicals.

Properties of Silk


Man-made fibres are classified into three

classes, those made from natural polymers, those made from synthetic polymers and those made from inorganic materials.

Man-made fibres


Is soft and luxurious and also drapes well. It is not a heavy fabric but it gives warmth. It was originally used to make outdoor goods

but now is common in clothing and carpet although pure acrylic can result in pilling.

It can be dyed to bright colours. Acrylic is made from a petrochemical called

acrylontrile.

Acrylic


Is a polymide which is made from petroleum. It is durable and lightweight. Nylon is quick drying and cleans easily because dirt

does not cling. It can be static and does not absorb moisture so, if

used it clothing, it can be clammy in the heat. Examples of nylon products include luggage,

carpeting materials and hosiery because of its elastic recovery ability.

Nylon


Is soft and strong, resistant to shrinkage and

does not stretch. It is a polymer which is produced from coal,

water, air and petroleum products. It can blend with natural fibres such as cotton

or wool or with artificial ones, to increase the fabric more durable and easier to wash.

It can be used in clothing, filling for upholstery, floor coverings and insulation.

Polyester


Viscose is a solution of cellulose xanthate made by treating a cellulose

compound with sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide. Byproducts include sodium thiocarbonate, sodium carbonate, and sodium sulfide. The viscose solution is used to spin the fiber Viscose Rayon, or Rayon

Is created by the regeneration of natural materials. It is made from wood pulp and its properties are similar to those of linen

or cotton. There are various types of rayon including regular, high tenacity, high wet

modulus and microfibers. High tenacity rayon is strong and used mainly in industry. Regular rayon is often used in clothing. High wet modulus has high wet strength and microfibers are fine and

silky.

Viscose Rayon


Yarn is a long continuous length of

interlocked fibres, suitable for use in the production of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery, and rope-making. Thread is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or machine. Modern manufactured sewing threads may be finished with wax or other lubricants to withstand the stresses involved in sewing. Embroidery threads are yarns specifically designed for hand or machine embroidery.

YARNS


Carding MachineFor Wool


Carding MachineFor Cotton


COTTON COMBING MACHINE


ROVING


In the textile arts, plying is a process used to create

a strong, balanced yarn. It is done by taking two or more strands of yarn that each have a twist to them and putting them together. The strands are twisted together, in the direction opposite that in which they were spun. When just the right amount of twist is added, this creates a balanced yarn, which is a yarn with no tendency to twist upon itself. Almost all store bought yarns are balanced, plied yarns.

PLYING


How to identify your fabricWhen you can't tell if a fabric is a knit or woven, put it through these tests:

Look for loops or grainIn knit fabric (left), one continuous yarn is looped repeatedly to create what looks like tiny rows of braids. In woven fabric (right), multiple yarns cross each other at right angles to form the grain, like a basket.

Knits & Wovens: What's the Difference?


Apply the stretch test When knit fabric is stretched along its width, it will stretch significantly. Along its length, it will stretch slightly. If a knit fabric is stretched excessively, a run may form. Most woven fabrics can't stretch along the lengthwise grain (the length of the fabric), and there is minimal give along the crosswise grain (the width of the fabric).



Check the wrinkle resistance

When you ball up a knit in your hand, it will crush easily. When you release it, the fabric will spring back into shape with few, if any, wrinkles. When you wad up a woven fabric, it usually wrinkles easily.

Inspect the edgesA knit is either sold as a tube or flat. On flat knits, factories apply round blobs of starch or glue along the lengthwise edges to prevent them from curling. Along the width, or cut edge, the fabric doesn't fray. The lengthwise edges of a woven fabric, called the selvages, are strong and don't move. The cut edge across the width of the fabric frays.



Weaving is a method of fabric production in

which two distinct sets of yarns are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth.

WEAVING


I. Plain weave

a. Basket/ Matt weaveb. Ribbed ( Warp & Wet )

II. Twill weave III. Satin and Sateen weaveIV. Variation of Basic weave.

a. Crepeb. Pile (Cut/Uncut)c. Double Clothd. Gauze (Leno)e. Swivelf. Lappetg. Dobbyh. Jacquardi. Tri-axial.

Types of weaves

WARP

WEFT


The plain weave repeats on 2 Ends × 2 Picks.

It produces the firmest fabric.

Plain


PLAIN WEAVE


Twill weave, the second basic weave is

characterized by diagonal lines running at angles varying between 15 and 75 degrees.

Twill


Four or more shafts with warp floats or weft

floats in interrupted diagonal. It is very lustrous.

Satin


Dobby, a decorative weave results in small

designs or geometric figures all over the woven fabric. The standard dobby weave fabrics are flat and comparatively fine.

Dobby


Oxford weave fabrics are made with modified

plain weave or basket weave and are generally used for apparels, particularly cotton shirting materials. The fabric is fine, soft and lightweight.

Oxford


Jacquard weaves, produced on a special

loom, are characterized by complex woven-in designs, often with large design repeats or tapestry effects.

Jacquard


Herringbone describes a distinctive V-

shaped weaving pattern usually found in twill fabric. The pattern is called herringbone because it resembles the skeleton of a herring fish. Herringbone-patterned fabric is usually wool, and is one of the most popular cloths used for suits and outerwear. Tweed cloth is often woven with a herringbone pattern.

Herringbone


End-on-end (also known by its French name,

Fil-a-Fil) is essentially a plain weave where one colour yarn is interwoven with another colour yarn. Although one of the two colours is usually White, a great variety of end-on-ends have been produced in recent years. This type of weave yields a familiar two-tone appearance.

Fil-a-Fil


Chambray fabric is thought to originate from

Cambrai in France many centuries ago as far back as 1595.

It differs from denim in that it is not a twill fabric, when it is woven - the warp and the weft of the fabric cross equally giving it a 1 x 1 fabric structure. This is known as a chambray structure. This is partly responsible for its lighter appearance as the weft, the lighter unbleached thread, appears on the surface of the fabric. Both sides of chambray are identical meaning it has no right or wrong side.

Chambray


Piqué, or marcella, refers to a weaving style,

normally used with cotton yarn, which is characterized by raised parallel cords or fine ribbing.

Pique fabrics are a type of dobby construction. These fabrics require the addition of extra yarns, called stuffer yarns. These stuffer yarns are incorporated into the back of the fabric to give texture and added depth to the fabric design.

Piqué


The pique is a type of cotton weave, so is the

jersey knit. The pique is a bit heavier and rougher. The jersey is thinner and smoother knit. The term golf polo can apply to both.

What is the difference between a pique polo, a Jersey Knit Polo and a

golf polo shirt?


Knitted fabrics is the third major class of fabric,

after woven and nonwoven fabrics.

Knitting is the construction of an elastic, porous fabric, created by interlocking yarns by means of needles. Knitted fabrics can be made much more quickly and easily than woven fabrics at comparatively less cost. Knitted fabrics are generally light in weight, comfortable in wear even during travel, but yet require little care to keep their neat appearance. The tendency of knits to resist wrinkling is another factor to boost up their popularity. Knitted fabrics are used for designing active clothing such as sports clothing. Their elastic nature permits for abundant physical activity.

KNITS


Jersey is a knit fabric used predominantly

for clothing manufacture. It was originally made of wool, but is now made of wool, cotton, and synthetic fibres. This is the fabric most often used to make T-shirts. Jersey is considered to be an excellent fabric for draped garments, such as dresses, and women's tops.

Jersey


The following types of jersey can be

distinguished: Single Jersey fabric - weight: 140 g / m² Double Jersey Interlock Jersey Jacquard Jersey Clocqué Jersey

Jersey


SINGLE JERSEY


DOUBLE JERSEY


INTERLOCK JERSEY


JACQUARD JERSEY


Dyeing is the process of adding colour

to textile products like fibres, yarns, and fabrics. Dyeing is normally done in a special solution containing dyes and particular chemical material. The temperature and time controlling are two key factors in dyeing. There are mainly two classes of dye, natural and man-made.

DYEING


Fibre dyeing Yarn dyeing Fabric dyeing Product dyeing

Stages of Dyeing

A textile or cloth is a flexible woven material consisting of a

network of natural or artificial fibres often referred to as thread or yarn. Yarn is produced by spinning raw fibres to produce long strands. Textiles are formed by weaving, knitting, crocheting, knotting, or pressing fibres together.

The words fabric and cloth are used in textile assembly trades (such as tailoring and dressmaking) as synonyms for textile. However, there are subtle differences in these terms in specialized usage. Textile refers to any material made of interlacing fibres. Fabric refers to any material made through weaving, knitting, spreading, crocheting, or bonding that may be used in production of further goods (garments, etc.). Cloth may be used synonymously with fabric but often refers to a finished piece of fabric used for a specific purpose (e.g., table cloth).


FABRIC

Blended fabrics are those that are made from

both natural and, or synthetic fibres. At least 2 or more different kinds of fibres are woven together to make the finished fabric.

Natural Blend Mixed Blend Synthetic Blend


Blended Fabric

Polyester/Wool Polyester/ Viscose Terylene/Rayon Linen/Cotton Linen/Silk Linen/Rayon Silk/Wool Silk/ Cotton Rayon/Cotton


Common Blends

fabric training for retail staff

Business

vinay shekhar

nylon presentation

acrylic presentation

polyester presentation

manmade fibres presentation

types of fibres

high natural luster

natural polymers