Fabric InspectionFabric Inspection

Jimmy K.C. LamJimmy K.C. Lam

The Hong Kong Polytechnic UniversityThe Hong Kong Polytechnic University

Fabric InspectionFabric Inspection

Why, when and whereWhy, when and where Inspection SystemsInspection Systems

– Four-Point SystemFour-Point System– Ten-Point SystemTen-Point System

Inspection ConditionInspection Condition SamplingSampling Acceptance LevelAcceptance Level

Fabric Inspection (I)Fabric Inspection (I)When, why, whereWhen, why, where

Producer likes to know the quality of his products Producer likes to know the quality of his products (says quality for 500,000 yds fabric)(says quality for 500,000 yds fabric)

Buyer wants to assure the product quality he ordered.Buyer wants to assure the product quality he ordered. 10% check will give buyer some ideas of his product 10% check will give buyer some ideas of his product

qualityquality 25% check maybe necessary for new supplier25% check maybe necessary for new supplier 3% check maybe enough for a proven record supplier3% check maybe enough for a proven record supplier

Fabric Inspection (II)Fabric Inspection (II)

Fabric inspection must be selected randomlyFabric inspection must be selected randomly The fabric sample must be selected from The fabric sample must be selected from

different place, different lot and different timedifferent place, different lot and different time Inspector must use a packing list and select Inspector must use a packing list and select

different bales on different placedifferent bales on different place The samples should be selected from early, The samples should be selected from early,

middle and late production.middle and late production.

Inspection StandardsInspection Standards

Ten Point SystemTen Point System– Oldest and most used in woven finished fabricOldest and most used in woven finished fabric

Four point SystemFour point System– Widely adopted and used in knitted fabricWidely adopted and used in knitted fabric

The Graniteville’78 SystemThe Graniteville’78 System– major and minor types, used in garment piecesmajor and minor types, used in garment pieces

Ten Point SystemTen Point System

Ten Point SystemTen Point System

The earliest inspection system and is designed The earliest inspection system and is designed to identify defects and to assign each defect a to identify defects and to assign each defect a value based on severity of defectvalue based on severity of defect

Published in 1955 by Textile Distributors Published in 1955 by Textile Distributors Institute and National Federation of TextilesInstitute and National Federation of Textiles

Ten Points SystemTen Points System(Woven)(Woven)

Warp DefectsWarp Defects– 10-36 inches10-36 inches 10 points10 points

– 5-10 inches5-10 inches 5 points 5 points

– 1-5 inches1-5 inches 3 points 3 points

– up to 1 inchup to 1 inch 1 point 1 point

Weft DefectsWeft Defects– Full widthFull width 10 points10 points

– 5 inches to half width 5 points5 inches to half width 5 points

– 1-5 inches1-5 inches 3 points 3 points

– up to 1 inchup to 1 inch 1 point 1 point

Ten Point SystemTen Point System

Standards for examination of finished goods (woven Standards for examination of finished goods (woven mainly)mainly)

Penalties to be assigned for imperfection of warp and Penalties to be assigned for imperfection of warp and weft defectsweft defects

Grading is designed to apply to every imperfection Grading is designed to apply to every imperfection according to size, regardless of type.according to size, regardless of type.

For print cloth, any piece of grey which contains less For print cloth, any piece of grey which contains less than 50% more penalty points than yardage may be than 50% more penalty points than yardage may be passed for printed fabric.passed for printed fabric.

Ten Point SystemTen Point System(Note)(Note)

No one yard should be penalized more than 10 No one yard should be penalized more than 10 pointspoints

Any warp or weft defect occurring repeatedly Any warp or weft defect occurring repeatedly throughout the entire piece makes it “second”throughout the entire piece makes it “second”

A combination of both warp and weft defects A combination of both warp and weft defects when occurring in one yarn should not be when occurring in one yarn should not be penalized more than 10 pointspenalized more than 10 points

Ten Point SystemTen Point SystemGradingGrading

““First Quality”First Quality”– A piece is graded as “first” if the total quality points do not A piece is graded as “first” if the total quality points do not

exceed the total yardage of the piece. Eg. 100 yard piece got exceed the total yardage of the piece. Eg. 100 yard piece got

the penalized of 70the penalized of 70.. ““Second Quality”Second Quality”

– A piece is graded a “second” if the total penalty A piece is graded a “second” if the total penalty points exceed the total yardage of the piece.points exceed the total yardage of the piece.

Four Point SystemFour Point System

Four Point SystemFour Point System

It was published in 1959 by the National It was published in 1959 by the National Association of Shirt Pajama Sportswear Association of Shirt Pajama Sportswear ManufacturersManufacturers

It got the biggest support for American Society It got the biggest support for American Society for Quality Control.for Quality Control.

It was endorsed by federal government for It was endorsed by federal government for military inspection and American Apparel military inspection and American Apparel Manufacturers AssociationManufacturers Association

Four Point SystemsFour Point SystemsKnitted FabricKnitted Fabric

Grading of fabric quality according to penalty pointsGrading of fabric quality according to penalty points Penalty points are based on the length of defects Penalty points are based on the length of defects

measured in inch.measured in inch. Fabric inspection is only on one side of fabric and is Fabric inspection is only on one side of fabric and is

based on fabric width of 64-66 inches (knitted fabric)based on fabric width of 64-66 inches (knitted fabric) Four penalty points per linear yarn up to 64/66 inches Four penalty points per linear yarn up to 64/66 inches

in widthin width The quality shall be expressed in the number of penalty The quality shall be expressed in the number of penalty

points per 100 yarn lengthpoints per 100 yarn length

Commerical Knitted Fabric GradingSystem, Four Point SystemFour Point System is adopted byAmerican ApparelManufacturers Association (AAMA) for piece goodsknitted fabric. Fabric defects is penaltized by maximumof 4 points.

ength of the defect in the fabric in either length or width Points allottedUp to 3 inches 1Over 3 inches to 6 inches 2Over 6 inches to 9 inches 3Over 9 inches 4

Commerical Acceptance Levels for defect points :

abric Type (Ciruclar, V-Bed orully Fashion, Warp Knit)

First Quality Points Per100 Linear Yards

Tricot not over 40Basic Circular not over 50Faced Finish Circular not over 60Novelty Circular not over 70 to 85Basic Raschel not over 40Raised Surface Raschel not over 50Noverty Raschel not over 60Silver not over 50

Four Point SystemsFour Point Systems(others)(others)

All products sold must be have the following properties:All products sold must be have the following properties: Grey Goods:Grey Goods:

– constructionconstruction– blendblend– widthwidth– weightweight

Finished GoodsFinished Goods Buyer must inform seller on any particular condition of Buyer must inform seller on any particular condition of

goodsgoods

CalculationCalculation

Points per 100 square yards = Points per 100 square yards = – (Total points scored X 3600)/ (Cloth width in (Total points scored X 3600)/ (Cloth width in

inches X yards examined)inches X yards examined) e.g inspected 100 yards fabric and got 100 e.g inspected 100 yards fabric and got 100

penalty points,fabric width is 72 inches, the penalty points,fabric width is 72 inches, the points per 100 square yards is : points per 100 square yards is : – (100X3600)/(72X100) =50 (100X3600)/(72X100) =50

The Graniteville ‘78 SystemThe Graniteville ‘78 System

Graniteville’78 SystemGraniteville’78 System

It was introduced in 1975 for the field of fabric It was introduced in 1975 for the field of fabric grading.grading.

The system divided defects into major and minor The system divided defects into major and minor typestypes

The major defect was one which was very obvious The major defect was one which was very obvious and lead the goods to second qualityand lead the goods to second quality

The minor defect was one may or may not have The minor defect was one may or may not have caused garment to second, depending on its location caused garment to second, depending on its location in the end use itemin the end use item

78 System Point78 System Point

Penalty Point Assignment of Graniteville’78Penalty Point Assignment of Graniteville’78 Defect LengthDefect Length Penalty PointsPenalty Points

– 9”9” 11– 9”-18”9”-18” 22– 18”-27”18”-27” 33– 27”-36”27”-36” 44

78 Points- Notes78 Points- Notes The principle was established in garment cutting piece, The principle was established in garment cutting piece,

which the short length defects (less than 9”) will which the short length defects (less than 9”) will normally be removed.normally be removed.

The system tries to balance the importance of longer The system tries to balance the importance of longer defects (over 9”) and put less weight on 1-10” defects defects (over 9”) and put less weight on 1-10” defects such as slubssuch as slubs

The system also suggests the viewing distance of 9 foot The system also suggests the viewing distance of 9 foot instead of normal 3-foot viewing distance.instead of normal 3-foot viewing distance.

The system tend to eliminate very small defects from the The system tend to eliminate very small defects from the total penalty score.total penalty score.