EXPLORATION MARBLING TECHNIQUES O N FABRICS

Dirti Sebha

Bachelor of Applied Arts with Honours (Design Technology)

2017

EXPLORATION OF MARBLi~G TECHNIQUES ON FABRlC

DIRT! SEBHA

This project is submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the of Bachelor of AppJied Arts with Honors

(Design Technology)

Faculty of Applied and Creative Arts CKIVERSITI MALAYSIA SARc\WAK

20]7

•

I

UNIVERSITI MALAYSIA SARAWAK

Grade: _ _ ___

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Final Year Project Repor t 0 Masters D PhD D

DECLARAnON OF ORIGINAL WORK

This declaration is made on the 6th of June, 20 17.

Student' s Declara tion:

I, DIRT! SEBHA, 4954 1, FACULTY OF APP LIED AND CREATIVE ARTS (FACA) hereby decla re that the work entitled EXPLORATION OF MARBLI NG TECHNIQUES ON FABRJCS is my origi nal work. I have not copi ed from any other s tu dents' work or from a ny other sources exce pt where t he due refe re nce or acknowledgem ent is made explicitly in th E" text, nor has any pa rt been

writ te n for me by anothe r pe rson. J 19'" JUNE 2017

Date submitted N~ I R;11~k\ (49 541 )

a me of th e student (Matrie No.)

S

I,

upe rvisor's D eclara tion:

ASSOC PROF DR. JUNE NOO SIOK KHENO hereby certi fies that the wo rk ellti tl ed EXPLORATION OF IvlARBLI NG TECHNIQUES ON FABR ICS was prepared by the above named s tude nt, and was subm Itted to the .FACULTY APELIED AND e RGATIVE ARTS (FACA) as a * partialffu-l.l fulfilment, for the co nfe rmen t of BACHE LOR OF APPLI ED ARTS WITH HONOURS (DESIGN TECH NO LOGy) a nd the a forementioned work. to Lhe bes t of my knowledge , is the sa id student's work.

Received for examination by: Date Ii ~~ 80IT

I declare tha t Project/Thesis is classified as (please tick (Y»:

6jDCONFIDENTIAL (Contains confiden tia l infor ma tion und e r the Officia l Secret Act 1972)'

RESTRICTED (Contains restricted information as s pecified by the organisation where research was done)*

Y OPEN ACCESS

Valida t ion of Project/Thesis

I therefore duly affi rmed with fr ee consent and willingness declare that this sa id P roject/Thes is

sh all be placed officially in the Centre for Aca de mic In form ation Services with the abid ing in terest a nd righ ts as follows:

• Thi s Project/Thesis is the sole legal property of Univers iti Malaysia Sa rawak (UNIMAS).

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• The Centre for Academic Information Services has the law fu l right to make cop ies of the Project/Thesi s for academic exchange between Higher Learnin g Ins ti tute.

• No dispu te or any cla im s ha ll arise from the student itself neither third pa rty on th is Project/Thesis once it beco mes th e so le property of UNI MAS.

• Th is Project/Thes is or any materia l, data and infor ma tion rela ted to it shall not be distributed, pub lished or disclosed to any party by the s tude nt except with UNIMAS pe rmiSSIOn .

Student s ignature -.>'--+='-_ _ _ Su perv isor s igna ture : - --H----=..-t'F--­19h J UN E 2017

. " Cu r rent Add ress : -;1,\\1 Jl. H. Abd Aziz, desa Tj. Mekka r , No. 11 8, Kota Sambas. Ka bupaten Sa!nbas .

Ka timanta n Barat, Indonesia .

Pas Code : 79462

Notes: * If th e Project/Thesis is CONFIDENTIAL or RESTRI CTED, please a tta ch together as annexure a letter from the orga nisation with the period and reasons for conflde ntiality and restrict ion.

[The in s trument is duly prepared by The Ce nt re for Acade mic In forma tion Services]

ii

PENGAKUAN

Saya mengaku bah awa tiada bahagian daripada penyelidikan da1am disertai ini lelah

digunakan sebagai bahan sokongan unluk sesual u ij azah atau ke lulusan sarna ada kepada

universi ti ini atau inslitusi pengajian tinggi lain.

(D irti Sebha)

No. Ma lrik 49541

iii

PENGESAHAN

PrCljek beltajuk EKSPLORASI TEKNlK MARBLING DIA T AS KAlN telah disediakan oleh

DffiTl SEBHA dan telah diserahkan kepada Fal:ulti Seni Gunaan dan Kreatif sebagai memenuhi

syarat untuk Ijazah Sarjana Muda Seni Gunaan dengan Kepujian (Teknologi Seni Reka).

Diterima untuk diperiksa:

(Assoc. Pro f. Kheng)

Tarikh !~~IJ\.Ir<Q 20/7

iv

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

First of all, I would like to thank The Almighty Allah who made thi s Final Year Projec t

possible . Nex t, I would also like to thank my parents for always supporting me when I

feel down. I would a lso like to thank my best fri ends as they are always be there when I

need them, helping me out when I am utterl y stressed out, and al so my fello w course

mates who keep supporting me. Th is project would have been imposs ible without the

kind support , guida nce, and care give to me by my beloved supervisor Dr. June Ngo Siok

Kbeng. I would like to give my sincere thanks to her as well as m y parents and my

friend s for helping me to make thi s successfu l.

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Table of Contents

DECLARATION OF ORIGINAL WORK

PENGAKUAN iii

PENGESAHAN iv

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT v

TABLE OF CONTENT vi

ABSTRACT ix

ABSTRAK x

CHAPTER 1

Introduction

1.0 Introduction

I.I Problem Statement 3

1.2 Research Questions 4

lJ Objectives 4

1.4 ImpOJ1anCe of Research 4

1.5 Research Scope 5

1.6 Research Location 5

1.7 Research Limitations 5

1.8 Conclusion 6

CHAPTER 2

Literature Rev iew 7

1.0 Introduction 7

2.1 Previous research 8

2.2 Conclusion 9

vi

CHAPTER 3

Research Methodology 10

2.0 Introduction 10

3.1 Research Method 10

3.2 Process for Gathering Data 11

3.3 Primary Data 11

3.4 Secondary Data 13

3.5 Conclusion 14

CHAPTER 4

Result and Fi ndings 15

4.0 Introduction 15

4.1 Observation 15

4.2 Experiment 16

4.3 Sample Experiment 28

4.4 Conclusion 31

CHAPTERS

Final Prod uct 32

5.0 Introduction 32

5. 1 Design Process 33

5.2 Idea Development 34

5.3 Final Product 36

5.4 Conclusion 41

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CHAPTER 6

Validation 42

6.0 Introduction 42

6.1 Products and Techniques Strength 42

6.2 Product and Materials Weakness 43

6,3 Concl usion 44

CHAPTER 7

Concl us ion 45

7,0 Conclus ion 45

References 47

viii

ABSTRACT

Marbling is one of the techniques for co louring fabrics. It produces unique design and nice

effects. Marbling technique is usually created using a thickener, such as carangeen an and

metochel. The research is focused on materials that can repl ace carrangeenan or metochel,

but s till has the same functions o f carrangeenan and metoche!. Com sta rch is a thi ckener fo r

liquid materials and can create marbling e ffect s. Hence, can repl ace calTangeenan or

metoche!. The co louring matter used are ac ryli c colours, as it is su ita ble for creating marbling

effect. The combinati on of com starch and acrylic colours are used to crea te a co llecti on of

products. It has a good potential to create interesting high aesthetics va lue for textile product.

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ABSTRAK

Marbling ialah sa lah satu cara untuk mewarnakan kain. la boleh menghasilkan rekaan yang

unik dan kesan yang menarik. Teknik marbling biasanya dibuat dengan menggunakan

pemekat seperti carangeenan dan melochel. KaJian ini memfokuskan kepada bahan-bahan

yang boleh menggantikan carangeenon dan melochel, tetapi masih mempunyai fungsi yang

sama seperli carangeenon dan metochel. Tepung Jagung ialah salah satu pemekat untuk

cecair dan boleh menghasilkan kesan marbling. Oleh sebab ilu, lanya boleh menggantikan

carangeenal1 atau me/ache!. Pewama ya ng digunakan ialah ocrylics, kerana ianya boleh

menciptakan kesan marbling. Kombinasi antara tepung jagung dan acrylics digunakan untuk

menghasilkan koleksi produk. lanya mempunya i poten si ya ng bagus untuk membuat produk

tekstil yang m enarik dan mempun yai nilai estetika yang tinggi.

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CHAPTER 1

INTRODUCTION

1.0 INTRODUCTION

1.0.1 Marbling Techniques

Nowada ys, there are so many creativities for coloring fabric, such as marbling

techniques . "Marbling is the art of printing multi-colored swirled or stone-like pattems

on paper or fa bric. T he pattems are formed by first floating the colors on the surface

of a liquid, and then laying the paper or fa bric onto the colors to absorb them. " (Ben y,

n.d.). Marbling techniques has been known for a time ago, it started in Turkey or

Persia in the 1100. [n Turkey marbl e effect was used as decorative purposes, and also

as the bac kground for o ffi cial documents and signatures. The marble art was taken by

Western Europe, Netherlands, and France. Mostl y in Netherl ands and France marbl e

effect wa s used for bookbinding, with the papers being placed on the ins ide covers of

all the fine books. As populations increased and there were so man y books about

marbling techniques printed . Until now, marble effectis still famous and trendy.

Marble effec t is ac tually considered as an old-fashionedftraditional art in 1890's, but

since a few marblers have published their precious centuri es-old famil y marbling

methods and fonnulas, and now in thi s modem era , there are many practitioners of

thi s beautiful art. Some people do it at home as their hobb y. Marbling is a fun art, lots

of patterns and co lour combination cl ari fy that marbling never ge ts boring.

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According to Berry (n.d.) , there are so many types of marbling patterns and

they have fanc iful names, such as Peacock, Thistle, fountain, Cathedral, Spani sh

Wave, Italian Vein, french Curl , Bird Wing, Whale Tai l, frog Foot, fa ntasy M oi re,

and Dragons in the Sky, and there are also some patterns' names that actually cannot

tell much at all about what the patten looks like, such as Gloucester, S tormont ,

Nonpareil , Gel-git , and Suminagashi.

1.0.2 Starch as Thickener for Marbling

In order to create marble effec t on fab ric , thickener such as carrangeenan is

needed and there is a craft produc t ca ll ed methyl cellulose (methochel) that can be

used for marbling on the fa bric. Carranggenan and methochel ha ve the same fu nction

that is to make the colours stay on the top of paste (which is the water already mixed

with carrangeenanlmethocbel). It is eas ier to produce marbl e effec t on fabri c using

carrangeenan or methochel, because the paints are able stay on top of pas te easily.

This research is focused on the starch that can replace the carrangeenan or methochel

but still has the same function as carrangeenan and methochel. Corn starch has same

function as carrangeenan which can make the co lours stay on top of the paste. But for

com starch, acry li c can only be used. This is because acryli c col our, are made o f

polethylene plastic that is can not be di ssolved in water that has been mixed wi th com

starch . Hence, the colours will stay on top of the surface eas ily.

This research is also connec ted to the eco-friendly materials that can be used

fo r coloring fabri cs. The eeo-fr iendly material s are the material s that do not da mage

the environment. These material s a re easy to get and also do not have the negati ve

2

impacts to the environment. Thus, indirectly thi s method al so can make environmental

sustainability preserved.

1.0.3 Application of Com Starch and Acrylic Colours for Coloring Fabri c

The application of com starch and acrylic colours fo r coloring fabric is a

creative idea to produce a unique fabri c. This idea also means that to the consumers

can use eco-friendly starch as a thickener when carrying ou t th e Marbling technique.

Colouring fab ri c by using eco-friendly materials is good to the environment than

co loring fabric by using synthetics, such as reac tive dyes. Besides that, co louring

fabr ic by usin g eco-friendly material s have a very high potentia l to penetrate in the

market, because by only using the com starch and acrylic colours can produce uniq ue

and charac terized fa brics.

1.1 PROBLEM STATEMENT

Based on the observa tions that were carri ed out, colouring fabric by using

synthetics are very popular. Most o f people co louring fabr ics by using syntheti cs

without think that colouring fabrics also can be done by lJs ing eco-friendl y material,

such as com starch.

The problem statements for this research are;

1. Colouring fabric by using com starch and acrylics are very rarely done.

2. The techniques of marble effect usuall y made by chemichal material s, such as

metochel and canangeenan.

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1.2 RESEARCH QUESTIONS

There are few ques ti ons that can be identified in this research are:

I. Are com starch and acryl ic colours suitable to be used to colour fa bric?

2. How is the process to create marble e ffect caITied out by using com starch and

acrylic colours?

1.3 OBJECTIVES

T he objectives of this research are:

To idcntify what kind of alternat ive thickener that can substitute

calTan geen an.

To experiment various kinds of starch and colouring matte on fabrics.

To produce a coll ection of unique marble effec ts on the fabric .

To validate the products made.

1.4 IMPORTANCE OF RESEARCH

The meaning of this research is to create fab ri cs with marble effect by using com

starch and acrylic colours. These easy-to-get materials are mostl y availab le and can be

found in any super market and stationary stores . Com starch and acryli c co lours can

produce marble effect on the fabri c with good result.

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The targe t market of thi s project is intended to every group, espec ially textile

designers, and to everyone who has diffi cul ties in obtaining the syn theti cs materia ls

for co loring fabri cs.

1.5 RESEARCH SCOPE

This research is focused to textile designers who would like to find other

alterna ti ve wa ys to co lour fabrics and create the marbling effect crea ti vely and

uniquely. Besides that, th is project is also eas ier and cost saving.

1.6 RESEARCH LOCATION

The loca tions that were visit ed by the resea rcher include the Mal aysia n

Handicraft development cen tre (Kuching Branc h). Thi s is because there are so man y

types o f tex til e design in Sarawak which have different level creativit y. The researche r

a ims to obtain in formation to complete this resea rch, and to lea rn the techn iques that

a lready existed in co lour ing fab rics in Sarawak .

1.7 RESEARCH LIMITATION

The limitation of this resea rch is on the experiments of com starch and acrylic

co lours that can produce marble effect fabrics .

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1.8 CONCLUSION

In this chapter, the resea rcher has identified the problem statements and research

objectives that are necessary to carry out the research. This project will show that com

starch and acrylic colours are suitable materia ls for co loring fabri c. These materi als

are eco-friendl y.

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CHAPTER 2

LITERATU RE REVIEW

2.0 INTRODUCTION

This research is carried out based on the several literatures, and journal s that are

related to the research topic .

In this research, new explorations on coloring techniques are ca rri ed out. The

data are ob tained through reading materials that are related to the expl ora tion of

colouring techiques on fab rics.

According to Berry (n .d.) described that in order to create marbling effects on

fabrics, the needed materials are can'ageenan (starch material made from seaweed) ,

alum, marble gall (wetting agent, make colours spread on the surface of the size) , and

o th er materials such as marbl ing tools. Every single time the result of the marbling

effect is different, when using different marbling tools. There are so many types of

marbling tools (the too ls to create the patt ern), such as standard-comb, wide-spaced

comb, fine-tooth comb, rake, double-rake, and scraper st ick. According to Wicke l

(201 6), in order to create marb ling effects us ing meth yl ce lJoluse (meth oche l) can al so

be used. It is also a product used to make marbling size. Methocel is less expensive

than the ca rrangeenan and it has a longer storage life compared to cilrrangcenan which

is eas ier to be spoiled in hot or humid conditi on.

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2.1 PREVIOUS RESEARCH

Based on the previous research by Rosa et a1. (2014), dyestu ff is very

important in coloring fa bric. For ex ample, the research that has been carried out on

development of dyestuff wi th sustainability, a comparative study between dyeing on

cotton using reactive and vat dyestuffs. The research obj ect ive of the compare whether

th e reacti ve dyes or va t is morc eeo-friendl y. The resea rch has shown that the used of

va t dyest uffs in co loring fa bric especially on co tton has a lower eco logica l impact than

reactive dyes. When compared to reacti ve dye effluent, vat dye effluen t is almost good

fo r reuse, it can be considered that the co loring of cotton can reduced its

env ironmenta l impact.

Thi s research aims to describe and identifiy the mo re eco-fri end ly dyestuff

be tween reac tive dyestuffs and vat dyestu ffs, and inves ti gated about the possibility of

reuse effluent generated. the colorfastness to water, the eco logica l costs, etc. The

experim ents by using vat dyestuffs showed sligh t advan tage in tenns of ecologica l

cos ts, the greater possibility for reuse of treated effluent, generating less molecule of

carbon dioxid e than the experiments by using reactive dyestuffs.

Rosa et ai , (20 J4), (p .l)

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2.2 CONCLUS ION

The result of the previous research is the researcher has found out that

co louring fabrics by us ing reactive dyestuffs and va t dyestuffs have differences, wh ich

is the va t dyes tuffs is more eco-friendly mate rial. Due to th e global warming cases

nowadays , eco-friendly materials must be considered for co lorin g fabric are belt er,

because it does not ha ve negative impacts for the environment. The materials that can

produce the marble effect on fabrics, such as the com starch and acrylic co lours are

eco-fri endl y materia ls which can be applied 011 fabrics.

With this resea rch, researc her wants to bring in the several types of materia ls

that can produce marble effec t on fabric , and also the types of fabric that are suitable

for marbling effect.

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CHAPTER 3

RESEARCH METHODOLOGY

3.0 INTRODUCTION

In this chapter, the resea rcher explains the methods that have been used in

executing this research, w hich include gathering infonnation through pri mary and

secondary data. Thi s chapter also expl ains the processes that researcher has

undertaken to produce consistent products for thi s research. This chapter is more

focu sed on the experiments that have been can-ied out using com starch and acrylic

co lours. Apart from that, the experiments on com starch and ac rylic colours are used

to reduce the making of co louring fabric by using the materials that conta ined of

dangerous chemicals , because it is dangerous fo r environment and health.

3.1 RESEARCH METHOD

This research, the researcher will onl y using qualitati ve research method. T hi s

research is stud y about several things, sllch as the evidence, the wa y to find out the

coloring techniques for fabri c, and more to the ex perim entations. Therefore,

researcher w ill do the observations, the experiments, and samples. Th is is because the

result s fro m qualitative research represent desc riptive data.

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3.2 PROCESS FOR GATHERING DATA

T he co ll ected data is the data that are obtained fro m observations o r taken from

the expenments. The data tha t produced by qualitative resea rch is in the fom1 o f

words and acts, th e rest is the add itional data such as documen ts, and etc. In this

research, the obtained data will be divid ed into two things, which are: Primary data ,

and Secondary data .

3.3 PRIMARY DATA

The research methods to obtain the primary data are by carrying out the

experiments, obscrvations, and product samples. These three methods are rela ted to

the process of creating the co lorin g tecniques on fabri c esp ec iall y marbling . fo r th e

experiments, the researcher wil l be experimenting on the materials th at can be used to

create the marble effects and also the different types of fabric. For observa ti on

me thod , the resea rcher will be observ ing the resu lts of the ex perimentations . As for

the samples, the researcher will crea te samples of marble effect in large r quantities

than the experimentations. The research that will be doin g is about the exp loration of

co lo ring techniques on fab ric espec iall y marble effec t.

3.3. 1 Experiments

Experiments are one of the important things of research. Results ob tained from

the ex periments represent data that should be documented to produce fi nal product.

The ex periments that are ca rri ed out o f marble effect on the fab ri c by using com

starch and acrylic colours, which is the product sampl e is more to th e

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experimentations on the types of fabri c where the marble e ffect applied successfully.

The purpose of making these experiments is to help the researcher to produces good

quality produc ts that give the aesthetics va lue.

Th e experiments have been carried out on vanous types of materials and

fa brics that suitable for marbling techniques. The fo llowing table No . 3. 1 is the detail

of the experimentation result.

Table 3.1 Results of Marbling Techniques on Different Fabrics

No Materials

Types of Fabric

Jacquard

Silk

Chiffon

Silk Cotton Cotton Lawn Rayon

Color & Motifs Color &

Motifs

Color & Motifs

Color & Mo.ifs Color &

Motifs

I. Com Starch +

Acrylics Bright, sharp

Bright, not

too sharp

Bright ,

sharp

Too bright,

sharp

Bright and

sharp

2. Sago Starch +

Acrylics Bright. sharp

Bright, not

too sharp

Bright,

sharp

Too bright,

sharp

Bright and

sharp

3. Wheat Starch + Reactive Dyes

Normal,

sharp

Nonnal, not

too sharp

Nonnal. not

too sharp

Normal, not

too sharp

Normal , not

too sharp

4. Wallpaper Glue +

Reactive Dyes Bright, faded

Bright , too

faded Bright, faded Bright, faded Bright , fa ded

S.

I

Wallpaper Glue + Reac tive Dyes

mixed with

Alginate

Nomlal,

fad ed

Bright, too

faded

Nonnal,

faded

Nonn al, Normal ,

faded

I fad ed

With these experiments, the result can be seen clearly and the researcher

knows whether the experiments are successful or not. These experiments help the

researcher to finali se the final products for this resea rch project.

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