Lidia’s sauce

secrets!in italian cooking, sauces aren’t just for spaghetti. Queen of the cuisine

Lidia Bastianich shares six standout styles that dress up beef, seafood, chicken and vegetables.

(and you’ll want to eat every one of them with pasta, too.)

BY STACY ADIMANDO / PhOTOGRAPhY BY MIShA GRAveNOR

“People sometimes think sauce needs to be complex. in italy, it’s made with whatever’s available: fresh, local ingredients, of course, or things from the cupboard in winter months.

even when you think you have nothing in the house, you can make a great homemade sauce.”page september 2012

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arinara may be top tomato here in America, but chef and TV host Lidia Bastianich says there are a slew of lesser-known Italian sauces just as tasty: “Traditionally they’re made with regional peak-season produce that has a lot of natural flavor. When you break them down with heat or in a blender, vegetables kind of make their own sauce, releasing their liquids as they turn tender.”M

Almond Pesto Trapanese over Seared Chickenserves 6 PreP 20 min cook 10 min

6 medium skinless, boneless chicken breasts

Coarse salt2/3 cup EVOO ¾ lb. cherry tomatoes12 large fresh basil leaves1/3 cup salted, toasted almonds1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper½ cup freshly grated grana

padano

1. Cut each chicken breast in half on the diagonal, making each piece about the same weight. Season with salt, then rub with 2 tbsp. EVOO.2. Using a blender or food processor, puree the tomatoes, basil, almonds, garlic, ½ tsp. salt and the crushed red pepper for about 1 minute. Scrape down the bowl. With the machine on, pour in the remaining EVOO in a steady stream to emulsify.

3. Preheat a large cast-iron or nonstick skillet. Working in batches if necessary to avoid overcrowding, add the chicken breasts and sear until golden, a few minutes on each side (make sure not to overcook). 4. Transfer the chicken pieces to plates and top with the pesto. To serve, sprinkle the cheese on top.

What to Drink!

Bastianich Rosato di

Refosco 2010. This Friulian

rosé has a fresh strawberry flavor that

balances the toastiness of

the nuts.

“the name of this sauce comes from the verb pestare, which means ‘to mash,’” Lidia says. “every region in italy has different ingredients in its pesto, depending on what grows nearby. this one is from sicily, where they grow some of the best almonds around.” serve it atop seared chicken breasts, fish fillets or sliced pork, or try it the traditional way: tossed into hot pasta.

Creamy Garlic Sauce with Broccoliserves 6 PreP 15 min cook 1 HR

2 cups milk, plus more if needed2 heads garlic, cloves separated

and peeled, plus 4 tbsp. sliced garlic (about 6 large cloves)

4 bay leaves, preferably fresh Coarse salt5 tbsp. EVOO1½–2 lbs. broccoli1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper

1. in a medium saucepan, bring 2 cups milk, the whole garlic cloves, bay leaves and ¼ tsp. salt to a boil over medium heat. Boil until the liquid is reduced to 1 cup, about 40 minutes. Discard the bay leaves. Pour into a sieve set over a bowl and use a wooden spoon or spatula to press the soft garlic through. Whisk the sauce until smooth, then whisk in ¼ cup EVOO; season with salt. 2. meanwhile, separate the broccoli into 2- to 3-inch florets on their stems; trim the stems to about 4 inches long. Peel the tough skin from the stems, then halve each lengthwise.

3. in a large skillet over medium heat, cook the sliced garlic in the remaining 1 tbsp. EVOO, stirring, until lightly browned, 5 minutes. Add the broccoli; sprinkle with the crushed red pepper and ¼ tsp. salt. Pour in ½ cup water; cover and cook, tossing occasionally, for 10 minutes, adding ¼ cup water at a time as needed if the broccoli sears (it should be tender but still bright, and the pan should be dry). Uncover and remove the pan from the heat.4. To serve, reheat the garlic sauce. Thin with more milk if desired. Serve the broccoli in a pool of the sauce.

What to Drink!

Donnafugata Anthilia 2010.

With plenty of fruity, floral

flavor, this Sicilian white

is a friendly finish to the rich cream

sauce.

The same magic happens with beans and legumes, herbs and garlic, and even nuts. With her favorite sous chefs at her side—her mother, Erminia; daughter Tanya; niece Estelle; and Estelle’s husband, Gus—Lidia stirs up six scrumptious versions starring simple, seasonal ingredients, and shares her sauciest tips. Take our word for it: You’re gonna want a spoon.

“dishes in italy don’t taste as strongly of garlic as they do in italian-american cooking,” Lidia says. “in this recipe, the cloves are cooked thoroughly, so the sharp enzymes are neutralized and you get a sweet taste and velvety texture. serve this sauce with vegetables like broccoli, or sneak a bit into just about anything: mashed potatoes, soup or a big bowl of fresh tagliatelle.

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What’s that, Lidia? “to get a good sear, cook the chicken on medium-high heat in a cast-iron

pan, then lower the heat and cover the pan to keep in the steam and tenderize the meat.”

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Olive & Caper Sauce with Fusilliserves 6 PreP 10 min cook 25 min

6 tbsp. EVOO 6 cloves garlic, sliced1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper1 can (28 oz.) italian plum

tomatoes, preferably san marzano, crushed

2 large ribs celery, thinly sliced (1 cup)

Coarse salt1 cup pitted olives, preferably

a mix of black oil-cured and green, halved

1/3 cup drained nonpareil capers in brine

1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley1 lb. fusilli½ cup grated grana padano or

parmigiano-reggiano

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. in a large skillet, heat ¼ cup EVOO over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook until sizzling and golden around the edges, about 2 minutes. Add the crushed red pepper; toast for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes, celery and ½ tsp. salt. Fill the tomato can with 1 cup pasta water and swish to collect any remaining tomato juices; add to the skillet. Bring the sauce to a boil. Stir in the olives, lower the heat and simmer until thickened, about 10 minutes.

Add the capers and parsley and simmer for a few minutes.2. When the sauce is about halfway done, add the pasta to the boiling water. Cook until al dente; drain and add the pasta to the sauce, tossing to coat. Continue cooking and tossing the pasta in the sauce until well coated. Drizzle with the remaining 2 tbsp. EVOO; toss again. Remove from the heat, then toss with the cheese.

What to Drink!

Santi Solane Valpolicella

Classico Superiore

Ripasso 2009. The spicy

notes in this northern italian red

stand up to the salty olives

and capers.

Chickpea Puree with Poached Shrimpserves 6 PreP 25 min (PlUS SOAking) cook 1 HR 45 min

½ lb. dried chickpeas6 cloves garlic, peeled4 bay leaves1 cup fresh basil leaves,

tightly packed½ cup plus 3 tbsp. EVOO 1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted Coarse salt and pepper

(preferably white) 1 small carrot, sliced1 small rib celery, cut into

1-inch chunks ½ small onion1 lb. large shrimp (about 14 to

20 count), peeled except for tails, deveined

1. Soak the chickpeas overnight in water; drain. (Alternatively, use the quick-soak method: Place the chickpeas in a large pot with water to cover by 2 inches. Boil for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and let sit for 1 hour, then drain.)2. in a large saucepan, bring 3 qt. water and the soaked chickpeas to a boil. Add 4 cloves garlic and 2 bay leaves and cook until the chickpeas are tender, about 45 minutes. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water. Discard the bay leaves and let the chickpeas cool.3. Using a food processor, puree the cooked chickpeas and garlic and reserved cooking water. Remove with a spatula and press through a mesh sieve.4. meanwhile, place the basil and remaining 2 cloves garlic in the food

processor. With the machine on, drizzle in ½ cup EVOO and puree until well combined. Add the pine nuts and pulse until smooth. Add the chickpea puree, 1 tsp. salt and ½ tsp. pepper and blend all together.5. in a medium saucepan, bring 6 cups water, the carrot, celery, onion and remaining 2 bay leaves to a boil; cook for 20 minutes. Add the shrimp and cook just until opaque, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain, discard the vegetables and let the shrimp cool. in a bowl, toss the shrimp with the remaining 3 tbsp. EVOO; season with salt and pepper.6. To serve, spoon the chickpea puree onto a platter or individual plates and set the shrimp on top. Drizzle with the remaining oil from the tossed shrimp.

“up and down the italian peninsula, dried legumes are used as a platform for other foods and flavors,” Lidia says. this hearty puree is made with chickpeas, fresh basil and pine nuts, which are classic to the Liguria region, but you can go nutty with whichever swap-ins you like. almonds and walnuts work well, too. “toast them to release their flavors,” Lidia adds.

“there are many variations of cupboard sauces in italy,” Lidia says. “this one’s made with jarred capers and olives, but you can use whatever you have: cured artichokes, sun-dried tomatoes, anchovies or a can of beans. it’s ideal for the cold months, when you don’t have as many fresh vegetables.” serve it with any pasta that has nooks and crannies (like ziti or rigatoni), or spoon it on as a pizza topping.

What to Drink! Argiolas

Costamolino Vermentino di Sardegna 2010. Bright

hints of citrus, fresh pear

and herbs in this Sardinian

white are a great match

for the sweet shrimp and the creamy chickpeas. What’s that, Lidia? “You must taste sauces as you go.

the vegetables vary, so you may need different amounts of salt each time you make a recipe. the more you can

develop your taste apparatus, the better off you are as a cook.”

“all countries in the Mediterranean seem to have a rendition of this sauce, a condiment made with olive oil, herbs and lemon (or other acid) that’s traditionally served with seafood,” Lidia says. in the italian version, the oil is first infused with garlic and herbs. “the better the olive oil quality, the better the dish.”

“everything cooks together in harmony when you make a braise,” Lidia says. “in this veal shank version, the meat, carrots, and a beautiful sauce made with cloves and orange peel exchange flavors as they simmer.” Push the vegetables through a strainer at the end to thicken the sauce.

Salmoriglio Sauce with Striped Bassserves 6 PreP 20 min (PlUS STEEPing) cook 15 min

1½ cups EVOO8 cloves garlic, sliced Coarse salt and freshly

ground pepper5 tbsp. fresh lemon juice3 tbsp. finely chopped

flat-leaf parsley1 tbsp. finely chopped

fresh mint leaves6 skin-on striped bass fillets

(about 2 lbs.)

1. in a bowl, combine the EVOO, garlic and a pinch each salt and pepper; let steep for 30 minutes. Strain the oil; discard the garlic. in a small bowl, whisk together 1 cup of the garlic oil, the lemon juice, parsley and mint; season with salt and pepper.2. Preheat a large cast-iron or nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Place the fish fillets in a shallow dish in a single layer. Sprinkle with 2 tsp. salt and drizzle with the remaining ½ cup garlic oil, turning the fillets gently to coat. 3. Working in batches if necessary to avoid overcrowding, add the fish, flesh side down, to the hot skillet.

Cook, turning once, until the fish is just opaque in the center, 6 to 8 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish. Transfer to a plate.4. Spoon a little of the sauce over each fillet. Set the rest of the sauce on the table for passing.

What to Drink!

Bastianich Adriatico Friulano

2010. Bring an earthiness to the bright,

lemony fish with this medium-bodied white

from Friuli.

Braised Vegetable Sauce with Osso Buco serves 6 PreP 25 min cook 2 HR

4 bay leaves, preferably fresh1 large sprig fresh rosemary1/4 cup EVOO6 pieces osso buco (veal shank),

cut 2 to 3 inches thick and tied around the circumference

Coarse salt4 carrots, cut into 1-inch chunks4 ribs celery, cut into 1-inch

chunks2 large onions, cut into 1-inch

chunks3 tbsp. tomato paste1 cup dry white wine6 whole cloves2 small oranges, 1 peeled with a

vegetable peeler, 1 zested in thin strips

3 cups chicken broth, plus more if needed, warmed over low heat

1. Tie the bay leaves and rosemary together with kitchen twine. in a dutch oven, heat the EVOO over medium heat. Season the osso buco with 1 tsp. salt; add to the pot and brown on all sides, 6 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a plate. 2. Add the carrots, celery and onions to the drippings in the dutch oven. Cook until slightly softened and browned, about 5 minutes. Push the vegetables to the side of the pan and stir the tomato paste into the center of the pan. Cook for 1 minute, then stir into the vegetables. Add the wine and the herb bundle and boil until the wine is reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Add the cloves and orange peel strips. 3. Return the veal to the pot in a single layer and pour in the warmed broth until it almost, but not fully, covers the

meat. Adjust the heat so the liquid is simmering, then cover and cook until the meat is tender, about 1½ hours.4. Uncover and transfer about half of the vegetables to a platter. Place the meat on top and tent the platter with foil. With a slotted spoon, remove the herb bundle, cloves and orange strips; discard. Bring the sauce to a boil and cook until thickened, about 10 minutes. meanwhile, cut the strings from the meat and discard. 5. Strain the sauce directly over the meat on the platter, pressing the remaining vegetables through the strainer with a spoon. Sprinkle the orange zest strips on top and serve.

What to Drink!

La Mozza Morellino di Scansano

i Perazzi 2009. This

spicy red from Tuscany

is a tasty contrast to the mellow

veal and sweet

carrots.

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Lidia’s latest cookbook, Lidia’s Favorite Recipes, hits stores in October.

Learn more of Lidia’s

sauce secrets online! Go to

rachaelraymag.com/lidia.

What is osso buco?see p. 127