everest americans on everest perspectives: then and now mountaineers celebrate 50th training for...

7/30/2019 EVEREST Americans on Everest Perspectives: then and now Mountaineers celebrate 50th Training for the climb

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E X P L O R E L E A R N C O N S E R V E

WWW.MOUNTAINEERS.ORG

MountaineerMARCH/APRIL 2013 VOLUME 107 N

EVERESTAmericans on Everest

Perspectives: then and now

Mountaineers celebrate 50th

Training or the climb


2/41

2 the mountaineer mar/apr 2013

inside

13 Jm WhttakerHs le leadg p t Eerest

17 A ss perspecteWhat Eerest meas t Le Whttaker

21 Hw t cdt r a EerestTraer, Mtaeer Crteay Schrma ers tps

23 Hkg s t ly r weekedsWrter talks abt her Mtaeers ater-hr hke

26 Wld d at yr eetSheep srrel, mers lettce, dadelall tasty

8 CONSERVATION CURRENTS

Deals hma waste seres a less t pack t t

10 REACHING OUT

Gg kds a leg p the tdrs ad le

28 GOING GLObALThe callg the Clrad Tral

31 MEMbERSHIP MATTERSY, r members, makg the derece

32 bRANCHING OUT

See whats gg rm brach t brach

37 bOOkMARkSRwg acrss the cea; Freddm Clmbers

39 GO GUIdE

Hw ad where y ca get tsde

47 LAST WORd

Geerats by Bret Bshp

DiSCovER THE MounTAinEERSi y are thkg jgr hae jed ad aret sre where t

startwhy t set a date t Meet The Mtaers? Check the

Brachg ot sect the magaze (page 32) r tmes ad

lcats rmatal meetgs at each r see braches.

Mar/Apr 2013 vlme 107 nmber 2

Enriching the community by helping people

explore, conserve, learn about, and enjoy the

lands and waters o the Pacifc Northwest.

On our cover: The sage Jm Whttaker cmes rm r pblshgarm, The Mtaeers Bks, whch has jst released a re-sse WhttakersA Life on the Edge. The ew bk wll be celebrated alg-sde the teth aersary Whttakers ams clmb MtEerest Aprl 20 Seattle (see the ad sde).

the Mountaineerses . . .

the Mountaineer wld lke t thak The Moun-taineers Foundation r ts acal assstacedrg the redesg bth ths magaze adwww.mtaeers.rg. The Fdat peratesas a separate rgazat rm The Mtaeers,whch has receed abt e-thrd the Fda-ts gts t ars prt rgazats.

18

13

19


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www.mountaineers.org

tyinginThe Mtaeers s a -

prt rgazat, ded

1906 ad dedcated t the

respsble ejymet ad

prtect atral areas.

bOARd Of dIRECTORS

oFFiCERS

Presdet Ga Wdy, 2012-14Presdet Elect Da Lare, 2012-14

vP Prpertes Tab Wlks 201 2-14

vP Pblshg Lsa Bertse, 2012-14

Treasrer Stee McClre, 2012-14

Secretary Jh ohls, 2012-14

DiRECToRS AT LARGE

Lra Crrga, 2011-14

Rch Draes, 2011-14

Lee Frms, 2010-13

Chle Harrd, 2012-15

Leah Schlz, 2012-15

Kara Ste, 2012-13

Matt Slla, 2010-13

Tm varga, 2012-15

Gee Yre, 2011-14

BRAnCH DiRECToRS

Ke Small, Bellgham

Ey Ddey, Eerett

Gerry Hage, Fthlls

Jmmy James, Ktsap

Hery Rmer, olympa

Krk Alm, Seattle

Jm Felts, Tacma

ExECuTivE DiRECToR

Martqe Grgg

ExECuTivE PuBLiSHER

Hele Cherll

DiRECToR oF DEvELoPMEnT

AnD CoMMuniCATionS

Mary HseMAnAGinG EDiToR

Brad Straceer

PRooFREADERS

Chrs Ast, Jh Jack Edwards, Bra

Ftch, Crag Mller

PHoToGRAPHERS

Erc Becker, J Krakaer, Dee Mleaar,

Jle Smth, ira Sprg, Le Whttaker

The Mountaineer (iSSn 0027-2620) s

pblshed bmthly by The Mtaeers,

7700 Sad Pt Way nE, Seattle, WA

98115. 206-521-6000; 206-523-6763 a.

Members recee a sbscrpt as part

ther aal des. Apprmately $12

each members aal membershp des

ges t prt ad mal ths pblcat. n-

member sbscrpts ttheMountaineerare $32. Perdcals pstage pad at Seattle,

WA ad addtal malg fces.

Pstmaster: Sed address chages t

the Mountaineer, 7700 Sad Pt

Way nE, Seattle, WA 98115.

ops epressed artcles are thse

the athrs ad d t ecessarly

represet the ews The Mtaeers.

Every summit begins with a rst step

This year marks the 50th anniversary the rst Ame-

rca ascet Mt Eerest. Jm Whttaker, the rst Amercat smmt Mt Eerest, tk hs rst step whe he leared t

clmb as a tee wth The Mtaeers.

The Mtaeers has grw qte a bt sce Jm tk the

basc alpe clmbg crse. nw we egage a cmmty

er 13,000, spprted by 1,000 traed lteers leadg 3,200

crses ad acttes, cldg 2,300 yth tdr expereces, 6,000 hrs c-

serat edcat ad stewardshp eetsall whle prdg tdr rmat t

er 300,000 bk byers ad le strs. or am: create rmed recreatsts,

egaged stewards, healther ctzes ad better peple. Jm, r e, s ery mpressed by

hw ar wee cme.

i recetly had the pprtty t hst a Peak Scety eet eatrg Bret Bshp,

a tw-tme Eerest clmber ad s Barry Bshp, e Jm Whttakers teammates

the 1963 expedt. He etertaed s wth stres ad pctres rm bth hs ad

hs athers expedts. Hag bee ascated by Eerest r mch my le, ie see

ctless pctres the mta. oe the pctres that Eerest team absltely

captated me: a black ad whte pht Tm Hrbe ad Wll useld makg ther way

p the treachers West Rdge. nt ly dd they g t establsh a ew rte t the tp

Eerest, bt they cmpleted the rst traerse the mta ad sred the wrlds

hghest by p t that pt.

The pht shws a smmt partally blaketed a cldtremedsly rebdg ad

screamg wth a challege the kw. i thght hw hard t mst hae bee r them

t take that rst step whle lkg p at a meacg pyramd rck ad ce. Frther, i

thght hw almst ay ther clmber wld hae tred back whe Jm Wttaker appr-

ached the same smmt whle aced wth a d spplemetal xyge, 50-mle-a-hr

wds ad the chll ms-30 degrees drg the al thres hs clmb.

i r les we ace may challegesas twerg ad tmdatg as a mta ad

reqrg mre rm s tha we thk we hae. The jrey te les emtal,

physcal, tellectal ad metal stregth.

Like the Americans summit o a mountain in 1963,a challege always

seems the mst datg ad dclt whe y are stadg stll at the startg le

the jrey, thkg abt whats ahead. im prd t be part a rgazat

members wh t ly ace dw challeges, bt g t lkg r them. Fr we kw

that smply steppg t t the kw, whether r t we smmt, ltmately ges s

the crage ad stregth t aspre t taller mtas.

S, my qest s: What s yr mta . . . ad hae y take yr rst step?

Ga Wdy, Bard Drectrs Presdet


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editorsnote

Ca y dety the smmt

the regrd here? Sed yr

aswer (by Febrary 1) by pst r

e-mal: [email protected];

im Where?, Mountaineer, 7700

Sad Pt Way n.E., Seattle,

WA 98115. i y gess crrectly,

yll recee a $15 cp gd

r Mtaeers prchases, ad

well pblsh yr ame extmths clm. i case a te,

e wer wll be chse at ra-

dm. Mtaeers emplyees r

perss shw the phtgraph

are t elgble. Each mth well

pblsh a ew mystery ladmark

ad detcat the pre-

s e.

Sen your photographs r pssble pblcat as a mystery smmt (clde det-

cat r r beet). See e-mal ad malg address at let. i we se yr pht, y

wll recee a $15 Mtaeers cp gd r Mtaeers prchases.

n e was able t dety Sla Peak as the smmt the Jaary/Febrary Moun-

taineer. The pht was take by nrm Bckley rm r Eerett Brach.

Imwhere?

Brent Bishop, waiting or the weather t break a

attempt at the West Rdge Eerest last sprg, wated t kw

smethg. Dd hs brethre teemg at basecamp the wrlds

hghest ad mst ceted mta get the dr bg early

le, lke he had? (See the Last Wrd page 47.)

Hs lttle, cal srey Eerest pred he was t ale.

All caght the tdr bg as kds, jst as mst thse we

terewed r ths sse the Mountaineer had. A ew started

clmbg at a early age, mstly sprred by parets r metrs

wh had clmbed, bt thers were smtte wth the tdrs as a

chld ther waystet r car campg parks wth the amly,

shg streams r lakes, r jst hkg lcal trals wth amly.

My le the tdrs happeed t sprt rm my dads le

r shg ad htg Alaska. i was 5 whe he rst started

takg me alg. i a partclar s prmpted me t g t the

hgh ctry, t was mst prbably my glg at the Chgach

Rage, backdrpped by a edless ble sky, whle i lay spread ea-

gle r rt law Achrage. May a Mtaeers member

has related hw jst seeg Mt Raers bqts ce the

Washgt skyle drg a st sprred them t me rm iwa,

ills, Arza, Texas r the East Cast.

Ad as each r stres ld, t be tld these pages r

the pages ther chrcles, t s mperate t te hw the

stres startedrm a early trdct t the tdrs,

matter the actty r ccas.

it s eqally mperate t te that t all kds hae t as lcky

as dd mysel r sme r eatred clmbers these pages.

May tdays kds hae bee clstered, seeg the tdrs

ly thrgh thse credls Suv cmmercals, a scree

saer r a Srr shw. They hae t breathed t , tched

ts sk r steaded ther eet ts streams, ts sw-capped

slpes r the crsty Md-Clmba steppe lad amdst a sea

brttle, pget sage. These are the kds that t ly The M-

taeers s tryg t reachad dg s i mght add (see page 10

ad the stry Jsephe)

bt are als the kds that r mst

accmplshed clmbers ad mtaeers are depedg t

esre that thse precs places where les are trasrmed ad

dreams are br d t spl rm derece.

Everest 50 is surely a celebration mtaeerg

accmplshmet, bt t s jst as mch a cmmtmet t seedg

a s, a det ad a pass the mds r yg pe-

pleleadg them t d the same.Brad Stracener, Managing Editor

It is about Everest and accomplishment, but it is about more


5/41


Celebrate the 50th Anniversary o the frst American summito Mt. Everest with Jim Whittaker, Tom Hornbein and specialguest, Robert F. Kennedy Jr.

or call 206.521.6006 or more inormation

or tickets:

www.mountaineers.org/everest50

Saturday, April 20, 2013Fremont Studios, Seattle WA

6:00 p.m.

presented by:


6/41


Mountaineer tabbed or Secretary o Interior

o Febrary 7, Presdet obama mated e r ery w as

the ext secretary the iterr. Sally Jewell, che execte at REi,

s amed t lead the departmet that ersees the stewardshp

mlls acres pblc lads.Sally, wh leared t clmb wth The Mtaeers as a teeager,

s a Peak Scety member ad seres r Adsry Ccl. As

a acte hker, paddler ad clmber, she s well-ersed the ale

tdr recreat ad the mprtace r pblc lads. We

are prd Sallys rse t ths mprtat pst ad lk rward

t wrkg wth her t prtect pblc lads ad ecrage mre

Amercasyg ad ldt get tdrs.

spindrift

Targeting an Everest? Keep a constant

base o tness, says Chad Kellogg

Whle Chad Kellgg was at The Mtaeers r a clc last

December, he tched what he thks s mst mprtat abt

trag r a majr clmb, whether t be Eerest ( whch he s

tryg t set a speed recrd), r ather 8,000-meter peak.

My geeral phlsphy s ths: Always mata a gd base

cdt ( tess). Sk, r, ht the gymskeep yr base ma-

taed. He adds, Y ca the ramp p yr trag dscple

arly qckly t the specc clmb that y are abt t d.

Shld y becme jred the prcess cdtg, as he

dd 2009 whle preparg r e hs Eerest speed-recrd

attempts, he adses that y keep wrkg thse parts the

bdy that aret jred. Fr example, y tr a cal y ca

stll stregth tra wth weghts ther slated mscles the

bdy.

ultmately, he sad, t s dratphyscally ad metallythat

y are strg r whe gettg ready t clmb a mta lke

Eerest, ths reqrg a steady regme tess.

Where in the world is Steve Swenson?

i y are tryg t keep p wth Stee Swes sce the tr

the ew year, keep a eye the peaks t the sth, ar sth.

Bt a easer way s t ew hs blghttp://steeswessblg.

blgspt.cm.

it wll tell y what he d t d (read: clmb) whle betwee

smmts Mt. vs Atarctca ad Cerr Trre Pataga

er Jaary ad Febrary. nw, he says, t s tme r sme trek-

kg wth hs we Argeta ad at Trres del Pae Chle.

Everest trivia . . .

A welcome addition

Ths sse the Mountaineer welcmes the jralstc talets

e r w, Alls Wllams (abe Mt. Raer), a recet

gradate Seattles Alpe Scramblg itese Crse.

Alls was kd egh t let s se part her prle Jm

ad L Whttaker (see pg. 13) that appeared the Seattle Met

magaze last Agst (als see abe). Fr the etre pece, see

www.seattlemet.cm/trael-ad-tdrs/sders-gde-t-m-

t-raer-atal-park/artcles/jm-ad-l-whttaker-a-

gst-2012.

Meawhle, keep a eye pe the mtas r a clmber

wth a pe ad pad.

Only nine other men had ascended Everest before Americas

rst, Jim Whittaker, did so in 1963

The rst solo ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental

oxygen was achieved by Italian-born Reinhold Messner in 1978

In 2004 Pemba Dorjie Sherpa set the speed record to the

summit via the South Col8 hours, 10 minuteswith supple-

mental oxygen. Four years later, Kazi Sherpa set the record

without supplemental oxygen at 20 hours, 24 minutes

Part of the 1953 Edmund Hillary expedition, Charles Evans

and Tom Bourdillon climbed to within 300 feet of Everests su-

mmit a couple days before Hillary and Tenzing Norgay success-

ully became the rst to stand on top

In 1965, Nawang Gombu of the 63 American expedition beca-

me the rst man to climb Everest twice

In 1975, Junko Tabei of Japan became the rst woman to

summit Everest.


7/41


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8/41


conservationcurrents

This year marks the 100th anniversary the rst smmt Deal (aka Mt McKley),

whch s r may the tlmate mage a prste wlderess. Hweer, recet research by Dr. Mchael

Ls rm Alaska Pacc uersty pts t a ery deret realty. By calclatg the aerage

mber clmbers wh hae asceded the pplar West Bttress Rte ad the aerage mlt-week

expedt legth 18 days, Dr. Ls estmates betwee 152,000 ad 215,000 pds hma waste

hae bee depsted by clmbers creasses the Kahlta Glacer. i mre llstrate terms, we are

talkg 13 adlt male Asa elephats wrth waste the creasses.

Whle the waste may be t

sght, t s bred by sw

accmlat ad crprated t

a rer ce that mes 1,400 eet

per year sme areas. Prelmary

dgs sggest the creassed wasteremas blgcally acte ad wll

emerge at the Great ice alls the

ext decade (9.3 mles dwstream

rm Basecamp). The natal Park

Serce atcpates pblc health

sses as well as egate mpact

the str experece as these waste

ples start emergg.

A 2007 mandate Deal

natal Park reqres clmbers atbase camp (7,200 eet) ad thse wh

asced abe the camp at 14,200

eet t pack t waste a persal,

prtable caster called a Clea Mta Ca (CMC). Sce mplemetat, cdts hae greatly

mpred abe the 17,200-t Hgh Camp, whch had becme trsly satary.

Clmbers hae bee really recepte t chages, sad Lead Mtaeerg Rager Cley Getzel.

Sta has see thg bt pste reacts twards the CMC prgram. Whle the pack-t prgram

has scceeded redcg waste ectered at the hgh camps, clmbers are stll drected t depst

the ctets ther CMCs t desgated creasses belw the 14,200-t camp.

The dgs at the Kahlta rase qests abt the gg practce creasse dspsal

Deal. Meawhle, tw pplar smmts clser t hmeMt. Raer ad Mt. Bakerhae lg

reqred that clmbers pack t ther waste wth ble bags that are ssed wth clmbg permts.

Ble Bags mst be dspsed desgated receptacles, t the garbage.

What can you do to reduce your impact ther swy smmts? Cmmercally aalable

prdcts lke Cleawaste WAG Bags ad By Bags clde a bdegradable pwder that dedrzes

ad etralzes sld waste s that t ca be dspsed drectly the trash ater yr adetre.

To read more on the story please visit www.nps.gov/dena/naturescience.

When nature calls on the mountain . . .

by Lisa MillerPblc Lads

Prgrams iter

Denali National Park (photo courtesy o the National Park Service)


9/41


Continue on page 24

A stalwart o

stewardship and

advocacy, Helen

Engle retires only

in an ocial sense

Helen Engle, lifetime member The Mtaeers,

retred rm her pst as secretary the Tacma Brach

last year. Kw the tdrs ad cserat crcles as a

remarkable sl wh gets thgs de, she has a le-lg hstry

takg care the peple ad places ard her.

Tacma lteer leader, strctr ad cer Mdy Rberts,

whse rst ctact wth The Mtaeers was Heles ce

the ther ed the phe 1999jst bere Mdy jed

the rgazatprepared a bgraphy Hele r the Tacma

Mtaeers Aal Baqet octber 20, 2012. The llwg

s excerpted ad adapted rm Mdys prle Hele.

In the halls o Congress

Hele was Cgressma nrm Dcks ermetal crdatr

1994. She ad nrm g way back. Hele was the rst pers

t st nrm Dcks ce ater he was elected, ad she ad her

hsbad, Sta, rged a strg redshp wth hm er the years.

nrm shared hs thghts a letter t the Tacma Mtaeers

r the aal baqet:

i hae had greater parters wrkg sses aectg r

great pblc lads tha Hele ad Sta Egle. Frm prtectg r

wldle reges, helpg t secre desgat the Clearwater

Wlderess Mt. Raer, t her waerg adcacy r r

atal parks, Hele Egle has lterally bee a rce r atre

ad prtectg hma health.

Yes, ts tre she rgazed a stat the cgressmas ce.

She recalled settg a strct prtcl r the mstly cllege-age

peple wh asked r her leadershp. Hw y dress, hw y

act, hw y speak ad what y d mpacts the tcme yr

erts r chage! she tld them. Rep. Dcks agreed t meet wth

her ad the crew her hmea stadard Egle maeer

whch was lled wth peple, pstars ad dwstars. They were

sccessl ccg hm t chage hs pst the tmele

r mplemetg Frest Habtat Maagemet Plas ad reqrg

reglar pdates stead decades wtht a check .

In the broader outdoor community

Heles rgazatal ad ermetal rts g credbly

deep. She was a dg member Washgt Adb

Scety, the Tahma Adb Scety, Peple r Pget Sd,

the natal Parks Fd, nsqally Bas Lad Trst, Ctzes r

a Healthy Bay, ad Washgt Ermetal Pltcal Act

Cmmttee. i addt she has sered the bards bth lcal

ad atal rgazats as well as The Mtaeers Bard

Trstees.

Hele has a hard tme detyg whch her extese

adcacy prjects she s mst prd , sayg thats lke askg

whch yr chldre s yr arte! Hele sad wrk t

Helen Engle at her Tacoma home, scene o many past round-table resolutions to environmental issues

Eric

Beckerphoto

Law & the Land worskhop: March 19

The Mtaeers ad Washgt Trals Asscat are

parterg t er The Law & The Lad, a ree teracte

wrkshp the eeg Tesday, March 19, at The

Mtaeers Seattle Prgram Ceter.

Bldg ew trals takes mre tha mapwer. By law,

ederal lad maagers lke the u.S. Frest Serce ad

natal Park Serce mst ealate prpsed prjects

whether they are bldg trals r plag tmber harest.

Lcal germets may als get led whe ther

radways that prde recreatal access crss ederal

lads.

J plcy adcates ad lad maagers r a eeg

wrkshp t demysty the natal Ermetal

Prtect Act ad clary the pprttes that ctzes

hae t fece the desg ad exect prpsed

acts ederal lads. Ctact [email protected]

t RSvP.


10/41


reachingout

by Caitlin Obrien

Assstat Prgram Maager

Youth conquer summits via Mountain Workshops

Many o us at The Mountaineers hae had the rtate pprtty t ejy the tdrs sce

chldhd. We kw what t eels lke t smmt a peak, tp t a clmb, r paddle dw a rer. May

yth Seattle hae t had the same expsre t the tdrs, ad hae t leared what t meas t

smmt, r ee hw t clmb a mta.

or gal r Mta Wrkshps s t mpart a le the tdrs t all yth ad t help them

smmt ther w peak, whether that meas gettg t the tp the rck wall r jst pttg a haress

ad tyg t a clmbg rpe. We am t spre ths pass r the tdrs all yth by creatg a

sae ermet r them t try ew thgs.

The Mtaeers has had the pprtty t parter wth a lcal

permaet hsg cmmty r presly hmeless mms ad

yth der 18, spprted by the lcal -prt Sld Grd. Each all

ad sprg we hst a Mta Wrkshp ce a week r 10 weeks r

yth ages 9 t 11. Drg these weekly prgrams we teach partcpatsars tdr sklls lke agat, tdr ckg, rck clmbg

ad rst ad.

In addition to our primary goal, we als am t eqp yth

wth a basc preparedess r whe they are tdrs. or prgram

wth Sld Grd s especally meagl becase all these yth

hae recetly trasted t hmelessess ad are jst learg

hw t le a csstet ermet. By the ed the 10-week

sess we hae see mst the partcpats grw t t ly chersh

the sklls they hae leared, bt ask t cme back as te as they ca.

We hae see e partcpat r Sld Grd prgram

we wllcall her Jsephe t prtect her pracybecme the qtessetal

Mtaeer. Whe Jsephe rst arred at the prgram ceter, she

was shy ad ers abt ee pttg a haress. Wth the help

r lteers, she set a gal t reach the tp the clmbg wall by

the ed the 10-week sess. She slwly became mre cmrtable

wth hw tp-rpe clmbg wrks, leared hw t te her w llw-

thrgh, gre-eght kt, clmbed a ew eet ad was lwered t the

grd. Each tme Jsephe came back she wld set a ew gal, a ew

smmt r hersel, tl by the eghth sess she had reached the tp.

nw that Jsephe has aged t r Sld Grd prgram, shehas asked hw she ca cte t clmb. Wth the help r MAP schlarshp d, she jed r year-

rd yth prgram, Explrers, ad we wll watch as Jsephe sets ew gals ad reaches ew smmts

wth the sklls she lears at The Mtaeers.

Our continuing goal, t ly wth Jsephe, bt wth all yth that partcpate r prgram,

s t help them reach ther smmtwhateer that may be. Whether ts the tp the clmbg wall r

learg hw t se a cmpass, we hae the ablty t prde the pprtty r aye t smmt ther

mta, ad d ew mtas ad ew smmts t clmb.55

A recent Explorers outing


11/41


Mountaineers volunteers stay busySprg s here ad wth sprg cmes the bsest seas r r lteer leaders.

Betwee clmbg, scramblg, kayakg, phtgraphy, salg, atral hstry ad

crse, hkg, mst r lteer leaders hae almst eery weeked bked rm

w tl the ed Agst.

Why? They le dg t ad they le gg back.

Ask ay r leaders hw they gt started ad theyll tell y a stry abt a

lteer whse gt tme ad skll spred them t lear, grw ad ge back. o

crse, ts t play tsde wth ew reds ad ld, bt the real reas they d t

s becase they wat s badly r thers t hae the pprttes that they had.

Whe y j The Mtaeers, y j a cmmty geers ad sprg

peple. Wth eery eet ad actty, lteers are sharg ther sklls wth thers

ad smltaesly beetg rm smee elses lteered tme.

S, heres t the credble lteersm that makes The Mtaeers wh we

are tday ad the tre.

Summer Camp registration opens!J s r week-lg adetres ll Mtaeers actty.

Kds, ages 6-13, wll hae a chace t try clmbg, hkg, kayakg,

agat, phtgraphy ad basc wlderess sklls at r Smmer

Day Camps. Each week wll clde games ad acttes, a

earth stewardshp cmpet ad tdr sklls deelpmetall

led by sklled strctrs.The camps csst sx weeks Seattle, three weeks Ktsap,

ad tw weeks Tacmaeach wth ts w theme.

Seattle

Jly 8-12: Rpes ad Rcks Week

Jly 15-19: Water Week

Jly 22-26: Srr Week

Jly 29-Ag 2: Mtas Week

Agst 5-9: Wlderess Grmet Week

Agst 12-16: otdrs Yr Way Week

Kitsap

Jly 8-12: Echated Frest

Jly 15-19: Frest Explrers

Agst 5-9 (sbject t chage): Theater Camp

Tacoma

Agst 5-9: Themes aalable le

Agst 12-16: Themes aalable le

vst www.mtaeers.rg r mre detals each weeks act-

tes. Camp lls ast; each year we hae a wat lst s sg p s! Joseph challenges himsel on the Camp Long ropes course

Pioneers enjoy a day o pirating on the Skykomish


12/41


In 1963, a band o climbers embarked e the greatest adetres r tme. Fghtg alttde, allg

ce, reezg wds ad swstrms, they challeged the wrlds tallest mta. The Amerca Mt Eerest Exped-

t (AMEE) wld trasrm the les the me wh wet t clmb t ad trasrm Amerca as well. At a tme whe

Cld War tess remaed hgh ad the race betwee Amerca ad the Set u t pt a ma the m was

der way, Amerca was ready r ew heres.

Led by nrma Dyhrerth, the Amerca expedt cmpleted three rsts Mt. Eerest: 1) pttg the rst

Amerca, Jm Whttaker, tp the wrlds hghest mta, 2) the rst ascet the West Rdge (by Tm Hrbe

ad Wll useld), ad 3) the rst traerse the peak

aga by Hrbe ad useld, wh desceded t the SthCl rte ater srg a pe bac abe 28,000 eet wth teammates Lte Jerstad ad Barry Bshp, wh had

smmted hrs bere them.

The sccessl smmt Eerest wld brg ame t the Amerca clmbers. They were preseted wth the nat-

al Gegraphc Scetys greatest hr, the Hbbard Medal. Jh F. Keedy preseted the award the Whte Hse

Rse Garde Jly 1963, jst r mths bere he was assassated.

Amerca heralded ts heres.

In honor o the 50th anniversary the rst Amerca smmt Mt. Eerest, we welcme lcal clmbers

perspectes Eerestwhether the mta tsel r the hstrc smmts. o the llwg pages, yll read abt

what Eerest meas t tw members the 63 team r whm we the Pacc nrthwest are prd t lay clamJm

Whttaker ad Tm Hrbead hw ther hstrc acheemets feced ther nrthwest clmbers wh hae

clmbed r attempted t clmb Eerest.

Y wll d a cmm thread betwee each clmber, spred t seek challege ad adetre ly t emerge tras-

rmed ater acheg hs r her gal r smply hag tred. Clmbg des ths. i act, almst aythg y d the

tdrs that presets a challege des ths. it trasrms y sme way.

For all the objectives reachedwhether t s a Eerest, a rgrs hke, a challegg paddle r skt bec-

mes clear t s, as t dd r r aremeted Amerca heres, that the jrey t r bjecte ad what t mparts

r les s what ths tdr thg s all abt. its a jrey that presets adetre, beaty, challege ad the

escapable smply beg tdrs.55

Perspectives:

then and now

Jle Smth pht

by Mary Hsue

Drectr Deelpmetad Cmmcats


13/41


The early yearsBr Febrary 1929 t a Seattle alarm salesma ad hs hmemaker we,

Jm ad L led a chldhd that ell smewhere betwee ozze ad Harret

ad Peter Pa. Wth ther lder brther, Barey, theyd play a sad pt

the shres West Seattle, bldg rats ad ltg hmemade weghts made

ccrete ad cee cas. They were jst rmal, scrawy, screwy kds

that dd eerythg tgether, says Barey, w 86. Rg madly ard

the yard wearg capes, pretedg that they were Sperma. n, they ddt

ght er whch e gt t be the Ma Steel. They were bth Sperma.All three tk t the tdrs, prmpted by a ather wh shed ee whle

sales trps. As teeagers, Jm ad L were sx-t-e pllars, sharp-

aced ad sleder, recrted by Seattle uersty wth basketball schlarshps.

Bt ball sprts were jst a meas t a tt-payg ed; by gradat theyd

drpped hps ar sk patrl wrk ad Raer gdg, prtable ways

t le p t ther mthers madate t get tsde ad play. They played

tsde s mch that cllege tk a extra year, bt ther mta resces

eared them medals ad letters cmmedat.

Jim WhittakerFrm acte tdr tee t Eerest c

This much they agree on: The rst tme Jm ad L Whttaker sm-

mted Mt Raer, they bth threw p. The tws were 16-year-ld By

Scts the smmer 1945, ascedg a the Emms Glacer wth a ew

dze thers the Seattle-based Mtaeers clb. The sky was clear, bt

the tw-day slg was harder tha they expected. The derprepared bys were

s dehydrated they melted sw ther mths. Ar s th at 14,410 eet, ad

asea s cmm at eleat, as clmbers say.

Bt what happeed ext s stll dspted sme 67 years later.

Mm had packed a bch grapes, ad yre s thrsty p there, saysL Whttaker, w 83. i threw p the grapes, re-ate a ew them. Grss,

yes, bt he was a teeage by.

Bt Jm, hs lder-by-10-mtes brther, wt crm t, Y cat belee

eerythg Le says. He wats t make a gd stry, ad thse are gd

stres. i hs w bgraphy, act, L wrte that the grss aecdte was a

stry [that] gt ardbt thats t tre.

S dd t happe? Wh kws. Fr the Whttaker tws, tw the mst

prmet mtaeers the nrthwest has eer prdced, ther reptat s

paramt. The grtty smmt stry ts the mystqe.

ira Sprng photo (Mountaneers Books)

Excerpted from The

Brothers Whittaker,

August, 2012, Seattle

Met magazine,

by Allison Williams


14/41


Jim Whittaker(cted rm page 13)

Mount EverestMt Eerest s 29,029 eet hghabt as ar abe sea leel as cmmercal arlers fyad

was especally datg 1963, whe there were rpes markg rtes t the tp. Expedts

reqred hdreds prters ad dzes sklled clmbers t zgzag betwee remte camps r

mths. Thse wh actally made t t the tp were less sl explrers ad mre

lke reelace astrats; they reached smmt rbt by a team ert.

oly tw teamse Swss, e Chesehad matched Sr Edmd Hll-

ary ad Tezg nrgays 1953 smmt eat. Whe Swss lmmaker nrma

Dyhrerth asked Jm ad L t j a expedt t pt the rst Amerca

Eerest, bth jmped at the chace. Bt whle the team 19 clmbers, dctrs,

scetsts, ad dcmetaras traed, e key member drpped t: L. That

mmet, perhaps mre tha ay ther, set the mrrr tws separate crses.

Ater fyg t Kathmad ad a mth-lg hke t base camp, Jm ad the

team started edless trps p ad dw Eerests ledges ad ce alls, halg

dred rats ad xyge ctaers. Salad. Gree salad. Gree salad was the

e thg y dream , Jm says. Wme secd. oe team member ded

a early accdet, pttg them all edge. Ater sx weeks, Jm ad nawag

Gmb, a ephew Tezg nrgay, reached the smmt May 1, 1963. The

rst Amerca had made t.

Jm dest thk abt that mmet mch; hed rather pctre the r the

wrld thrgh the eyes hs 27-year-ld s, Le, wh made t t Eerests pacle r the secd

tme ths year. They were sttg p there wth wd, clds, Jm says. Y tr ard,

sck p ar, ad ejy the ew. Y kw, jst srt sak t . Jm had lttle tme whe he ad

Gmb smmted, ee thgh back the the Sth Cl rte was empty ad therwrldly, t as

crwded as a gld rsh tral as t s tday. Bt hs tw acts were es dcmetat: a pht,

ad pckg p a rck t set a sget rg.

Big Jim

Thgh the same heght as hs tw, hes kw as Bg Jm, ad Barey csders hm the mresmber: Jm s qeter ad Le s mre gregars, prbably mre le--the-party tha Jm s.

Thats why the jb er he gt rm a clmbg bddy 1955 was s deal. Fe years pres, the

tws had set Jly Frth bttle rckets wth Llyd Aders rm the edge Raers smmt

crater; w he wated Jm t perate hs tdr gear c-p abe a restarat Pke.

Whe the C-p ally hred Jm t maage ther ty strage space ad stre, he wld sped

lg hrs ale amg ples dw sleepg bags ad bts shd wth Trc als. Draw t

the share-ad-share-alke eths the c-p, Jm tk $400 a mth pls a hal percet grss

sales. Wth e years, the ame mrphed rm the C-p t Recreatal Eqpmet icrp-

rated, r REi.

next t the pay ad the access t gear, the best thg abt the REi gg was that Jm cld take

tme . i 1963, he tk a whppg r-mth acat, headg 7,000 mles t the hghest pt

earth.With Mountaineers Publisher Helen Cherullo

On top o the world in 63

MountaineersBo

oksphoto


15/41


Todayo Je 3, 2012, Jm ad L Whttaker met at Paradse i, the cetry-ld ldge

the skrt Mt Raer. They came t memralze Sherpa nawag Gmb, wh,

ater smmtg Eerest wth Jm, wrked 18 seass Raer wth L.

Theres a slght cre t ther shlders

the brthers are ther th decade,

ater allbt L ad Jm stll stad abe almst eerye the hdred-pers

crwd. They glad-had ther way thrgh the tght raterty clmbers ad gdes

der strgs mltclred prayer fags. Bth wat t be lked ad bth tell stres

whle dgg the lsteer wth a t, a cspratral gestre.

Jm ad L hstle as they dd 60 years ag, whe the tw strappg yg tws

wld hawk ther gde serces t the crwd trsts ths htel lbby. i crsp

whte btt-ps ad armbads that read MounTAin GuiDE, e wld stad

the thers shlders t demstrate clmbg techqes these same wde

pllars ad beams. They charged $28 r a tw-day ascet t the smmt, $5 r a

tr the nsqally Glacers ghstly ce caes. i 1950, whe the tws perated the

Raer clmbg ccess, ly 238 peple attempted t clmb Raer, wth r wth-

t the gde serce. The ce cae trps were the real meymaker. Thse ce caes

hae lg sce melted away, ad, 2010, 10,643 peple tred t smmt Raer.

At the Gmb trbte, almst eerye, cldg the Whttakers, wre the kd

sythetc ests ad dw pllers pplarzed by REi. They dt hae t sell ay-

thg aymreclmbs, gear, themselesbt the tws are stll wrkg the rm at

Paradse.55

Abt the athrAlls Wllams s a ser edtr at Seattle Met magaze, where she cers

nrthwest trael ad the tdrs. Her wrk has appeared Time Out New York,

Conde Nast Traveler le, Metro ewspapers, ad Publishers Weekly, ad

rad shws cldg The Takeaway, The Rck Shw, ad The Bra Lehrer Shw.

She hlds degrees rm Dke uersty, the uersty Alaska Achrage ad

s the recpet the Jas Weger Award r Excellece Create Wrtg. She

les Seattle ad s a hker, scrambler, clmber, sker ad swsher.

Whittakers re-issue rom Mountaineers Books

Everest 50

Satrday, Aprl 20, 6 pm

Fremt Stds, Seattle

Der, prgram

ad le act

Tickets/reservations:

mtaeers.rg/eerest50


16/41


O leaders and mountains, the Kennedys and Whittaker

It was only our monthsater shaking the presidents hand Jly 1963 that the rst Amerca

t stake hs ats fag atp Mt Eerest had t gree wth hs at.Presdet Jh F. Keedy had bee

assasated.Tw years ater Jm Whttaker receed the natal Gegraphc Scetys Hbbard Medal rm Presdet Keedy

the Rse Garde, the Caada germet had amed ts ats hghest clmbed mta ater the sla

presdet, settg the stage r JFKs yger brther, Rbert, t stake a fag a smmte that rses rm the

glacer-clad St. Elas Mtas, whch brders the Yk Terrtry ad the Alaska Pahadle. The Keedy amly

had ted the presdets gee admrat r

Whttaker, s the Caada germet ted

RFK t plat the Caada fag ts smmt. it dd

t hae t thk lg abt ts chce r a gde:

Whttaker.

The young Kennedy,wh Whttaker met rthe rst tme jst bere hs team headed p t

the Yk, appeared reassrgly t. oce

the mta, Whttaker set a stadard gde

paceslw egh t t br t the ces.

S, Keedy asked hm t g aster. As the grp

apprached the smmt, Whttaker std back as

the seatr scaled the last the peaks 13,905

eet ad kelt a prate mmet prayer r hs

mrdered brther.

The clmb rged a redshp betwee the tw

me. Whttaker sted te wth the seatrs

amly, playg the Keedys ams tch

tball games ad skg wth them S valley, idah. i 1968, Keedy asked Whttaker t lead hs Washgt

state presdetal campag. S Whttaker was leadg the oreg campag, t.

On June 4, the night of the California primary, Whttaker had hs lteers gather a Seattle htel

ste t watch the retrs. Whe Keedys ctry was crmed, the seatr called the ste rm hs rm L.A.s

Ambassadr Htel t address Whttakers grp thrgh a set ldspeakers. The he wet dwstars t ace

hs w. Ad the he wet t thrgh the ktche.

Whle drg back hme, Whttaker heard the ews Keedy beg sht. The same ght, he raced t the arprt

ad few dw t Ls Ageles t j Keedys we, Ethel, ad yger brther, Edward, at the seatrs hsptal bed.

Whttaker was hldg Keedys had whe he ded ad was a pallbearer the serces at St. Patrcks Cathedral

new Yrk Cty ad Arlgt natal Cemetery.

My fathers greatest living heroes were John Glenn and Jim Whittakera physcal gat

wth a hge heart, a decet sl, ad spratal crage. We ca all be gratel that Whttaker has ally pt hs

extrardary le paper.

Robert F. Kennedy, Jr., regarding Whittaker's book, Lie on the Edge55

Jim Whittaker and RFK in a photo taken by Mt. Kennedy team member Dee Molenaar in 1965


17/41


May 1,2013, is the ftieth anniversary the rst

Amerca ascet Mt Eerest. o a strmy ater 1963,

my ather, Jm Whttaker, ad hs Sherpa clmbg parter, nawag

Gmb, plated the Stars ad Strpes the sw at the hghest

pt Earth.

As the ctry celebrates ths aersary ad rests the

hstry the expedt, may peple wll ask hw Eerest has

chaged. is t stll a challege? is t stll wrth clmbg? i hae

bee lcky egh t smmt Eerest twce the last three years,

ad althgh t has chaged a great deal sce 1963, t remas a

rmdable, trasrmate ad beatl mta.

i 2012 i had the pprtty t clmb wth a expereced team

that clded wrld-rewed gdes Dae Hah ad Melssa

Art. Hah has spet each sprg Eerest r the past tw

decades, cmplg 14 smmts that spa. Art has already

reached the tp r tmes her yg career. Yet r all ther

experece, ether had ectered a stat qte lke the e

we aced at 28,700 eet drg r smmt bd. oer a hdred

peple ars states descet were spread acrss the crce

traerse ad Hllary Step, the last majr bstacles Mt

Eerests Stheast Rdge. or team was rced t wat r mre

tha a hr whle the le bdes med past.

Dad and Gombu cld eer hae maged sch a challege.

They were csed clmbg a rte that had xed rpes,

tprts, ad hpe r resce shld smethg g wrg.

They were cmpletely ale, pshg the bdares hma

edear hgher ad hgher t space.

Sme clmbers arge that Eerest has lst ts prty, that t

has becme a smple walk-p resered r rch clets ad ther

gdes, bt thse peple al t realze the cmplexty ad pwer

the Hmalaya ladscape. i was sherg by the tme the rte

was clear r r ascet. Dae, Melssa, the rest r team, ad i

clmbed the al 300 eet ad embraced the smmt. it was the

type day that happes perhaps ce a year Eerest. The sky

was clear ad wdless; the ar was warm. or breaths ad tears

were the ly sd that brke the ast slece. The wrld beeath

s was a dstat memry, a passed-dw stry, a rch hstry

perseerace ad teamwrk held wth the brttle rck ad ce.

Dad ad Gmb were t lcky egh t hae the ew r the

tme that we had. They were csed sral. The ery mmet

they reached the tp they bega preparg r the descet. A

mayple wth the Amerca fag ted t t was the ly physcal

sg they let behd. otherwse, the strm erased ther presece;

bt t cldt erase ther legacy.

I sat on the summit, whch s w adred wth a gat est

prayer fags, ad ctemplated the mta. i kew, as all

clmbers kw, that the mta ddt care wh i was. it ddt

care that i had a hstry here, a past relatshp wth t. i kew

the mta was smply a gelgc rm ded emt r

tet, bt i als kew that the mta had chaged me, that

i wld be a deret pers whe i came dw, ad i wated t

belee the mta was smethg mre.

Tibetans have their own name r Mt Eerest. They

call t Chmlgmagddess mther the earth. Ater tw

expedts t the smmt, i am begg t derstad why. The

mta s t jst a ple acet rck. it s a teacher, deserg

r ear, le, ad respect.55

by Lei Whittaer

A teacher

deserving

our love, ear

and respect:

Chomolungma

Lei Whittaker with Ama Dablam in the background Le Whttaker pht


18/41


It was a risky route and a risky decision in May o 1963. Tm Hrbe

ad Wll useld decded, hweer, that they wld reg a attempt t be the ery rst

Amercas tp Mt Eerest ad stead try t be the rst tp t a the West

Rdge rte. Abt a mth ater ther teammate, Jm Whttaker, std as the rst Amer-

ca tp the wrld, useld ad Hrbe sccesslly std atp Eerest as the rst

eer t get there a the West Rdge.

The accmplshmet, cpled wth Whttakers ascet, breathed ew le t the

clmbg wrlds ew Amerca clmbers prwess. oe Amercas semal Hmalaya

clmbers, Jake nrt, has called the West Rdge clmb a credble stry s,

hersm, teacty. T ths day, ly three thers hae reached Eerests smmt a the

rte that Hrbe ad useld clmbed 50 years ag.

In looking back at it today, hweer, Hrbe pts t ths way,

We were a lttle grp yg males tryg t d smethg t chal-

lege s r a lttle whle. Lttle dd he kw at the age 32 hw mch

hs remag le wld be feced by the magtde meetg

that challegea fece he has tred t dey r may years, he

says.

The 82-year-ld physcas crret terary attests t ths assert

as the 50th aersary the clmb draws earer. A celebrat May

22 that wll eatre a dscss wth jralst ad clmber J Kraka-

er s keepg hm qte bsy crretly.

The teth s lke a hge tdal wae Eerest breakg t, ad i

cat get t rm der t, he says, bt s qck t add, it has made

me rest sme thgs that i prbably wld t hae.

oe thse thgs s the letme mpact hs ad uselds clmb.

Ater all, as he tes the ew preace, hs marrage was br rm a

prbg qest (why had he clmbed Eerest?) by a patets pedatr-

ca wh std besde hm at the peratg table. He ddt aswer bt

stead lleyed back, Why s yr arm a slg? ad her aswer led

hm t t ly becmg her clmbg metr bt her hsbad mre

tha 40 years w.

Though Everest etches a large landscape o his lieprecs letme

redshps, bks, appearaceshe matas ther les. nt eerye thks me

as the dctr wh clmbed (the West Rdge), reerrg t hs pressal sde le. He

has stded ad dcmeted hma physlgcal lmts ad perrmace at hgh alttde,

ad was pressr ad char the Departmet Aestheslgy at the uersty

Washgt Schl Medce er a perd 15 years.

i i lked at Eerest ad the wderl clmbg expereces i hae had, t s clearly

e my les that stads t, bt my ther les hae ther w precs qeess

jst as mch r mre s tha Eerest.

Whle ts sgcace has swballed t ccpyg a large space hs le, the gd

dctr wld rather talk abt t terms what he ctes hs ew preace as a w-

derl alchemy br rm a prceless cmmty carg reds ad amly.55

West Ridge

lives large in

doctors lie

to this day

by bra StracenerMaagg Edtr

Hornbein on Royal Flush at Frisco, Colorado last August

J Krakaer pht


19/41


The stories are many mtae-

erg lre: Lelg redshps bth rged

ad shattered Mt Eerest. Frtate-

ly, r Lavere Wds, the rmer prealed

whe she ht the 23,150-t mark tward

the smmt.

i wld hae ded, sad the Mta-

eers member wh sered rm thrm-

bphlebtsa bld clt that day

May whe tw Set clmbers saed her by

srrederg a smmt t brg her dw

tward base camp, where she cld ee-

tally be fw t a hsptal Thalad r

treatmet.

The cdet tk place early 23

years ag ad she s stll reds wth her

clmbg parters rm Rssa, where she

recetly wet t st them ad share the

camaradere they rst establshed what

was called The Peace Clmb, rgazedby Jm Whttaker t celebrate the 20th a-

ersary Earth Day. it als marked the

rst tme hstry that mtaeers rm

the uted States, Set u ad Cha

had rped tgether t clmb a mta, let

ale Mt Eerest. Whttaker had placed

e Amerca each three-member team.

Fttgly, the case Wds traal, he

Abt Lavere WdsLavere Wds, a

Washgt ate, s a

Mtaeers Ad-sry Ccl member

ad parter at Das,

Wrght, Tremae, LLP,

Seattle, where she chars

the rms Tax Exempt

orgazats grp. She has sat seeral

atal cmmttees r the Amerca Bar

Asscat ad thers. She has receed se-

eral pressal awards, cldg Lawyer

the Year by Best Lawyers Seattle.

selected clmbers wh were t eltsts -

csed ly ther w bjectes. istead

he selected clmbers sed t lkg t

r thers ther clmbs. He als ked

a rle: n e cld stad the smmt

wtht ther ther tw clmbg mates.

sx years ld, whe Whttaker became the

rst Amerca t stad tp the wrld.

i hae ery d memres that day,

she stated.

i wet t elemetary schl wth

Jms bys, sad Wds, wh grew p

Redmd wth parets wh clmbed, hked

ad wrte a Mtaeers gdebk

bcyclg Washgt. Sme grw p

thkg that the tdrs s where y

play gl r swm. i grew p thkg that t

s where y g clmbg.

She started climbing the olympcs

as a tee ad by the tme she was i her

30s she had clmbed Aapra ad peaks

the Hmalayas as well as Alaska.

There are s may mtas the

wrld bt the pblc s s ascated by

Eerest, she ted. it stads r the spre-

me challege ad bggest test e ca dr esel. She added, it s a tese

experece . . . ad brgs t the best ad

wrst peple.

Stll, she ssts, the smmt the West

Rdge by Hrbe ad useldwh were

Whttakers 1963 teams wtht paral-

lel. A pwerl symbl cdece ad

adacty that thg else has beate.55

The mst mprtat thg abt the

Peace Clmb, sad Wds, s the lelg

redshps that were made.

She was one of the rstpeple t

ask t j the clmb, she sad, whe Whtta-

ker aced he was lkg r clmbers.

i lked the tercltral dmes the

Peace Clmb, sad Wds, wh had rged

redshps wth ther Set clmbers

1986 whle clmbg the Pmmers. Ad,

Eerest had captated her sce she was

How the Peace

Climb o 1990

led to lielong

riendships or

local climber

by bra Stracener

Maagg Edtr Woods (let) on the Peace Climb with Ekaterina Ivanova, the frst Soviet woman to climb Everest, who died in 1992


20/41


What is the meaning o Mount Everest the clmbers eye? Da Mazr, Hmalaya mta gde r

SmmtClmb ad SmmtTrek, tk sme tme t rm preparats r the pcmg clmb seas t led hs ew

what Eerest meas ad aswer a ew ther qests abt the hghest pt Earth.

Mazr, lke the Whttakers, started clmbg hgh peaks as a teeager, bt Mtaa. Ad, lke the Whttakers, he

jed the Scts t prse tdr adetre whe he was t dg t drg hs amlys reqet campg trps

wth ther dg t ars atal parks.

Mazr gaed headles mst recetly 2006 whe hs

team resced Lcl Hall, a Astrala clmber wh had

bee let r dead at the 8,600-meter mark the mta

by a expedt that passed the straded clmber a day ear-

ler. A ew days prr t Halls resce, 40 clmbers had smlar-

ly passed by Brtsh clmber Dad Sharp wh wet resced

ad ded. i abadg ther w attempt the smmt

rder t sae Halls le, Mazr ad hs team were heralded

r phldg the blest tradt mtaeerg. Mazr

has clmbed see the wrlds 8,000-meter peaks ad led

expedts mre tha 15 tmes t the wrlds hghest peaks,

cldg see smmts Eerest. Whe he s t clmbg

he traels the wrld t rase mey r chartes sch as M-

t Eerest Fdat r Sstaable Deelpmet nepal

ad Tbet, r the Mta Fd. He les Brstl, Eglad,

as well as olympa, Washgt.

In your own wors, dan, what oes Everest mean to the

climing worl?

Eerest s the hghest mta r wrld. it rses abe

all else. Clmbg t s stll a wrthy challege ad sayg i

clmbed Eerest stll garers mch respect.

What inuence you to clim Everest?

i led mtaeerg nrth ad Sth Amerca. The

i tred the smaller peaks the Hmalaya. i sred ad ejyed thse early clmbs. Whe i was ered a chace t

clmb Eerest, i jmped at t.

What prove ierent than you thought eore setting out on Everest?

i thght t wld be ery challegg: the extreme cld, hgh wds ad ther dagers. oe the bg srprses rme was all the peple p there wh eeded t be helped, all the accdets ad tragedes. Stll i wated t d t, ad

ater dg s, i came away prdly mpressed by the hard-wrkg peple wh clmb Eerest ad ctally help

thers alg the way.

What o you see or Everests uture?

Eerest wll always be r wrlds hghest mta ad bggest challege. Bt ermetally Eerest s chagg.

The Khmb iceall seems t be gettg mre cmpressed at the base ad the hge creasses seem t be mg p

the Wester Cwm. The pper mta seems warmer ad drer tha t dd bere.55

Mazur in ull mountain mode

Guide Dan Mazur: Everest still a worthy challenge


21/41


Continued on page 22

conditioning

Are you eyeing Everest or another

major? Here are some tness tips

It goes without saying that you should be in the shape o your lie to climb Mount Everest! Ths s

a credbly demadg clmb, ee r the strgest hgh-alttde gdes the wrld. Ths mta cat be derestmated;

t s a ery sers ad ptetally dagers dertakg. Y shld cslt wth yr gde serce ad/r ther pressal

tess strctrs t create a specc pla r the clmb.

Beyond spending several months at high altitude where yr bdy ctally gets weaker, y mst be prepared

r lg, stres days at extreme alttde carryg lads 3070 pds (1432 kg). Smmt day ca last twele t eghtee

hrs wth lttle t eat r drk ad maxmm tpt r early the etre tme. it s cmm t br well er 10,000 calres

smmt day. i yr bdy cat meet these demads, gettg t the smmt wll be t reach.

Day hkes ad mltday hkes lg dstaces at least ce a week r te-pls hrs at a stretch are the best way t tra r

a Mt Eerest clmb. Beyd ths, card trag at a hgher heart rate s mprtat. A rte e r sx days trag per

week s ecessary. Beg cdtg as early as pssble, ad cte t ramp p tl tw weeks bere the trp begs, the

taper rder t peak yr tess leel. Rest seeral days bere leag r Mt Eerest becase trael ad jet lag ca

take a tll the bdy. Mst mprtatly, dt hrt yrsel prr t the clmb! A spraed akle r brke arm ca ed yr trp,

ad wth the tme, mey, ad emtal estmet y wll hae made, ths cld be dsastrs y haet bght srace.

Excerpted from Clmbg the See Smmts, by Mike Hamill (Mountaineers Books 2013)

Pters rm traer, Mtaeer Crteay SchrmaThe biggest mistake I see s peple csg exclsely laded (.e.,

pack) cardasclar trag ad eglectg r rgettg the stregth regme. Ths

s especally crcal r smethg lke Deal, where yre halg 100-150 pds p

the mta (wtht sherpas, prters r pack amals t assst). Marathers ad

ee trathletes wtht adeqate stregth trag especally wll strggle a ex-

pedt lke Deal. Ther sprts se cmpletely deret mscle recrtmet patters

cmpared t clmbg, whch les a laded pack ad ared terra that te pses

physcal bstacles whle y are carryg weght.

it s mprtat t carry a weghted pack r at least tw, bt preerably three days

each week whle preparg. Trael wth mre weght the rt ed the tg ad

less weght, bt mre mleage ad ga, the secd r thrd day the trp t sm-

late the lg stretches a apprach ad the clmb. Ths apples t ly t Raer

Courtenay volunteering or a amily activity


22/41


Crteay has bee a member The M-

taeers sce 1990 ad a clmb leader sce

2003. She ad her hsbad, Dg, r BdyReslts, a mtaeerg-csed persal

trag std nrth Seattle. Crteay

tras clets ard the wrld a her le

WebTrag serce, helpg peple all ages

ad tess abltes prepare r clmbs. She

s c-athr The Outdoor Athlete (Hma

Ketcs 2008) ad c-prdcer the DvD,

Train to Climb Mt. Rainier or Any High Peak

(Bdy Reslts 2003). vst her webste at

www.bodyresults.com r ctact her r tra-

g qests at [email protected].

Abt Crteay Schrma

ad lcal glacated peaks the Cascades ad olympcs, bt all

the hgher See Smmts, partclarly Eerest, Accaga, ad

Deal.

I tell locals training for the Seven Summits t be

able t hke Mt S wth yr heaest atcpated day weght.

Ths maxmm lad mght be 120 pds Deal, csderg

sled ad pack, as ppsed t 30-35 pds Eerest. The, the

ery ext day rest day betweed Malbx Peak (4,000

t. ga), St. Heles r Camp Mr wth 80 percet the pres

days weght.

When do you start preparing? Fr smethg lke Raer,

target yr trag a mmm 3-4 mths bere the trp,

depedg basele r startg pt. Fr trps p Deal r

Eerest, prepare a mmm sx ramped-p mths bere the

trp (my le trag clets mst typcally tra 6-12 mths).

nte that these trag perds are blt tp what s already

a pretty gd basele tess r thse asprg t a majr r

e the See Smmts.

As or the amount o time to set aside r tra-

g, mst wh are already trag r the See Smmts are

already pretty deted. As pted t by Seven Summits athr

Mke Hamml, y ca expect t cmplete tw ll-bdy stregth

wrkts a week that last rghly a hr each ad r cardwrkts ragg testy ad drat. The shrter card

sess mght be 30-45 mtes, e t tw tmes a week, whle

crpratg e lg mdweek wrkt 60-90 mtes wth a

pack, pls lg clmbg-specc weeked hkes p t 8-12 hrs

as y apprach the clmb.55

mt adams mt baker denali mt elbrus mt hood mt kilimanjaro mt olympus mt rainier mt shasta volcanoes of mexico

join today and ascend some

of the worlds

most breathtaking peaks

to help raise funds

to support our mission to

find a cure.

benefiting

ClimbaMountain.

SaveaLife.

Fitness pointers rom a trainer(cted rm page 21)


23/41


by Nicole Tsong

For my rst group hike wth the

Seattle (Brach) Mtaeers, a mderate

pace seemed qte reasable. A ater-

hrs hke sded lke the perect way t

sped a smmer ater/eeg.

Thg s, the ater-hrs hkes are

apparetly kw (t eerye bt me) as

beg rather brsk. Hke ad lear.

i shwed p at the meetg place

iterstate 90 r r hke p t Drty

Harrys Balcy. or grp see

was expereced ad packed wth ad

members The Mtaeers, cldg

ther peple wh reglarly lead hkes.

The group looked strong. Bt i was

mre ccered abt hw t aswer the

call atre wth a bch stragers

tha i was abt speed as i chatted

wth r grp leader, Bll Brm, ad

Mtaeers reglar Rch DBs the

carpl t the tralhead. (Grp slt

t the call atre: Call t party

separat ad separate.) i als was

excted abt the saety a larger grp

Who says

hiking is only

or weekends?March 10 marks the beginning of Daylight

Saving Time and opportunities to get

on nearby trails after workperhaps

to get in shape for more serious hikes

in summer. In this vein, we are happy to

reprint an article from freelance writer

Nicole Tsong that appeared in the Seattle

Tmes Pacic Northwest magazine last

August. While at it, we asked a few of our

Mountaineers hike leaders their after-

work favorites.Some leaders avorite ater-hours hikes

West Tiger Mountain No. 3: A great earby hke ater-hrs. Depedg hw

mch tme y hae ad es eergy leel ater wrk, y ca chse a mber

deret rtes t arre at the tp n. 3. oce there, great ews ca be had rm

a arety adjacet ew pts (weather permttg crse).

Mount Si: Whe i eel the eed r a sers ater-hrs wrkt, Mt S s a a-

tastc lcat that s als clse t Seattle. oe ca ga er 3,000 eet eleat

ad stll be hme by early eeg. i the sky s clear, y get great ews Seattle

ad the srrdg mtas.Bill Borom, Seattle Branch

Annette Lae:Ths has wrked r me as a eeg hke smmer. There s

geerally daylght thrgh the trees ad t s t a lg dre back t Seattle.

Bob Pankl, Seattle Branch

Olympia, Watershe Par: Jst mtes rm dwtw olympa, ths s a dese

m-rest that rals ay Washgts atal rests r atal parks. its 1.5

mles well-mataed tral s steep ad stepped places, as t llws Mxle

Creek. See mre at http://lympawa.g/cmmty/parks/parks-ad-trals/

watershed-park.

Priest Point Par: Three-pls mles seeral tral pts wth a cple hdredeet erall ga; beach access lw tde; ce ews the olympcs rm the

beach. Theres als the nsqally Wldle Rege, the Wester Chehals Tral ad

Captl Lake wth swtchbacks p t the germet bldgsmstly fat, bt

er gd exercse er as may mles as y wat, resh ar, trees ad ee wldle

(brds, eagles, seals, salm ther retr trp t the Deschtes Rer).

Greg Lovelady, Olympia Branch

Continued on page 36

To see moreabout some of these hikes and others, check out the Day Hike series

written by Craig Romanofrom Mountaineers Books.

Weekday hikes nearby are easy to fnd. The hiking group above stakes out Rattesnake Ridge near North Bend


24/41


establsh natal Wldle Reges r reg stads t.

Shes stll lbbyg Alaska ad Washgts ter cast slads.

In the world o achievementnmers rgazats hae awarded Hele ther legacy

awards, cldg Peple r Pget Sd ad natal Adb

Scety 2011. She receed the 1977 Dstgshed Ctze

Award rm the Mcpal Leage Tacma Perce Cty ad

was awarded Tacma Rtary Clbs rst ermetal award

1992. She ee has a award amed ater herthe Cascade Lad

Cseracy (w Frterra) tated the Hele Egle Letme

Acheemet Award 2004. i act, Rep. Dcks called hs receg

the Egle award 2010 e the greatest hrs hs

career.

Y mght call Hele Dctr Egle, t, sce the uersty

Pget Sd awarded her a hrary Dctr Scece May

2011 (see page 14 the Jly/Agst 2011 Mountaineer magaze.)

Whle she was bsy lachg ad spprtg all ths ctze

actst wrk, she was deeply led wth The Mtaeers.

She tk r taght crses basc clmbg, alpe trael,

mtaeerg-reted rst ad, ad amly acttes, ad she

als helped deelp The Mtaeers cserat prgram.

Alg wth her hsbad Sta, wh ded 2009, she c-chared

the Tacma Mtaeers aal baqet r may years. Heleals rgazed reglar eets t draw peple t the Tacma

Mtaeers, cldg the ermsly sccessl Ghsts

Eerest talk by Erc Sms.

Hele ddt d techcal clmbs, bt she made sre that ther

peple dd. A perpetal rgazer, she sered as Stas assstat

maager r hs expedts t Mt McKley as well as Per,

Ecadr, ad Mexc. All ths whle rasg see chldre. She

w has sx gradchldre ad tw great-gradchldre. (Her

graddaghter, Erca, s a clmber ad pressal gde traelg

the wrld ad teachg clmbg.)

The Salm Bakes that Hele ad Sta hsted brght peple

tgether t hr r regs greatest atral resrces, lke

alg the nsqally Rer at the cfece wth the Mashel Rer,

a area w prtected as a state park. The salm bakes med

t her backyard later years (als the ste the Egles Bg

Backyard Pccsdrawg er 200 peple . . . a ertable whs

wh amg the mers ad shakers r reg.)

Her recipe or making things happen

Jea MacGregr, a aclty member the Eergree State

Cllege ad reqet c-stgatr wth Hele, gae me Heles

t-s-secret recpe r makg thgs happe:

Frst, d yr hmewrk. Whe a ew sse cmes p, she gets

the phe wth eerye she ca thk t lear the sse

ad the scece behd the sse, sad MacGregr, wh tes

that Hele prbably has the bggest rldex ctacts the

ermetal ad legslate cmmty the state.

next, g t Egle iteret Strategy Leel 1. Hele gets back

the phe t eery pssble stakehlder t lear mre ad als

t see peple ca resle the sse bere t becmes a crss,lawst, r tra wreck. She talks t yg peple ad the CEo

Weyerhaeser alke.

i that dest wrk, the she reerts t Egle iteret

Strategy Leel 2: She tes eerye t her hse r sp. She

ecrages them t jst get t kw smee, becase ts hard

t demze smee y kw. Ths hghly eecte strategy

has dsed may crses ther acy, accrdg t MacGregr.

Cfct reslt seems t be a ate skll Heles.

Inspiring others to act

What spres Hele t adcate r the tdrs? i Helesw wrds: it all started wth my watg my amly t kw ad

apprecate the rchess ad wders the Pacc nrthwest

atral systems. i grew p my great gradathers Dat

Lad Clam prperty 1871. Whe we tk r lttle kds t

hkg, we saw mles r trals dsappearg as deelpmet

came alg r rers ad shreles. That spred her . . . t

lbby the Legslatre ad Cgress t act. oer the years, she

made lts gd reds amg my es as well as spprters.

n dbt all were welcme at Heles hse r sp.

i asked Hele what we ca d t mata ad ehace spprt

r the tdrs. Explre ad stdy what y see. Lear what

t s, hw t was rmed, why ts mprtat. i prtectg the

ermet we are prtectg the hma pplat as well.

Ald Lepld had t rght . . . we mst recgze that we are e

wth the ther le rms ths plaet, ad s, we are sag

rseles.55

A skill or bringing all sides together(cted rm page 9)


25/41


impactgiving

When I tell people what I do or The Mountaineers, im te asked the qest, Why rase ds w, ater

beg ard r s lg? Gd qest.

Fr er 100 years The Mtaeers has sered as the remst tdr recreat rgazat the Pacc

nrthwestdedcated t edcatg ad sprg peple t explre the tdrs, t csere ad steward pblc lads

ad waterways. Led by hghly-traed ad expereced lteers, r prgrams cect peple wth atre ad create a

lastg apprecat r the atral ladscape. We wrk t spre a letme explrat ad le r the tdrs becase

sccessl cserat depeds t.

i 2011, the rgazat was grated 501(c)(3) stats becase The Mtaeers has lg sered r chartable ad

edcatal prpses by edcatg ts members ad the greater pblc wth thsads crses, acttes ad bks

tdr recreat ad cserat. operatg as a 501(c)(3) expads The Mtaeers capacty t rther ts mss by

makg t easer t rase tal ds rm ddal, dat ad crprate spprters.

The Mtaeers s rtate t hae bee able t rely membershp

des, crse partcpat ad ldge reee t ssta erts t get pepletsde, bt er the past ew years t has bee prate spprt that has

eabled the rgazat t est ew, emergg prgrams ad tates

that adace r mss ad help s stregthe r prgrams r the

bettermet the cmmty ad the atral wrld.

Private support has enabled The Mountaineers to:

Develop a suite of youth education programs that expereced 80 percet

grwth tw years. A brat ad grwg tdr cmmty depeds

gettg as may yg peple rm all walks le t the tdrs w. i

2012 we ered 2,340 yth expereces t 920 yg peple.

Reinvigorate a public lands program that wll steward The Mtaeers cserat legacy ad create tdrctzes. i 2011 we tegrated lw-mpact trag t r crse strct, prded stewardshp pprttes ad

edcat cserat ad pblc lads maagemet sses. i 2012 we dbled r reach t er 13,000 readers

wth a ew cserat e-ewsletter ad we prded er 6,000 hrs -the-grd stewardshp, cldg tral

ad clmbg area mateace ad cserat edcat.

Support 1,000 trained volunteers wh led r strcted mre tha 3,200 trps ad crses last year. vlteers

dete ther ree tme t lead, edcate ad spre thers the tdrs. We are dedcated t cltatg a lteer

tradt ad t spprtg r lteers erts t eable mre peple t get tsde.

Provide outdoor information to thousands bk byers. or recreat, lestyle ad cserat bks

cmplemet r prgrams ad spre geerats by preserg mtaeerg lteratres mst mprtat ad

hstrc wrks.

As we look to the uture, r hpe s that The Mtaeers tdr edcat ad cserat legacy wll edre

r geerats t cme becase the releat atre r mss, the pste mpact r prgrams r members,

the tdr cmmty ad the ermet, ad a reslte cmmtmet t stewardg r legacy. it wll be prate spprt

that wll make that dream a realty.

Mary Hsue

Director of Development

and Communications,

The Mountaineers

Private support is key to building outdoor citizens

A day at Mountaineers summer camp


26/41


naturesway

All our lives we are told theres no ree lunch. Bt Jh Kal-

las ca pre therwse. i act, as he eagerly pts t, theres ree lch

all ard s, we jst pe r eyes.

Sre, mst s eagerly plck jcy wld blackberres, hckleberres ad

ther rts that grw the Pacc nrthwest. Bt hw may s sca the

grd r sheep srrel r mers lettce? Ca y tell a dadel rm

cats ear? These cmm edble wld plats cld add far, textre ad

trtal ale t ay meal, drs r at a campgrd.

Kallas says wee gtte t tch wth the plats ard s, ad lack

the kwledge hw t se them. nate Amercas ad ther cltres

gathered wld plats as ther daly d. They ddt ew wld plats as el-

tes, they jst thght them as d. Geerats ag, parets passed ths

kwledge t ther chldre. i partclar, armers ad thers lg clse t

the lad held mre kwledge abt d plats ad kept that wth ther

amles. Bt as we became mre dstralzed, ths kwledge was l-

ger passed ad was lst, Kallas says. oe way t lk at t s that all wld

ds are tradtal ds.

There are so many preconceptions abt wld ds, Kallas says,

that ts essetal t hae a gd bk that meets yr w eeds ad pr-

des cmplete rmat abt wld ds. A gd gdebk s lke a ser

maal, he explas, that prdes tls r detyg plats at all stages

grwth, as well as ther edble parts at ther prme ad hw t prepare them

s they are ejyable r ee delcsespecally r the es that are

dstastel ther raw rm.

Perhaps the best kw wld ds adcate was Eell Gbbs, whse

bks the 1960s reawakeed sme terest, tes Kallas. Sce the, may

bks abt wld ds hae bee pblshed, ad Kallas has prbably read

eery e, bt he says the ast majrty are t ery sel. Mst all shrt

prdg clear phts r detcat ad helpl rmat abt

trtal ale ad hw best t eat wld ds. i y smply pck wld ds

wtht kwg hw t se them, Kallas says y ca ed p beg dsap-

pted ad tred t the whle dea.

Wild plants can have many parts that are edible ad tasty,

sch as leaes, rts ad fwers. Sme peple lk at kwledge abt wld

ds as smethg t se r sral. Bt Kallas s qck t pt t that

we ca easly crprate wld ds ad ther trtal bst t r daly

dets, ad eed t csder them sral ds. Sme these plats ca

be d yr yard r lcal eghbrhd.

Hs latest prject s wrtg the secd lme hs Wld Fd Adetre

Plenty o ood at your eet

to put on your table

Kallas, wld edble plats athr-

ty, strctr, researcher, ad

drectr Wld Fd Ade-tres, wll preset, Edble Wld

Plats: Wld Fds rm Drt

t Plate, April 18 at 7 p.m.

at The Mtaeers

Seattle Prgram Ceter.

Continue on page 38

by Joan E. Miller


27/41


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28/41


See www.mountaineers.org for all details on Mountaineers Global Adventures

goingglobal

bacpac Colorao TrailAug. 16-28, 2013

Please see the eatre artcleabe r the trp descrpt.Price: $800 per pers cld-g -tral lxry camp wthder-breakast ad shwers(assmg 8 peple) Leader:Cheryl Talbert, [email protected], 253-229-4018.

Hie Italys dolomitesAug. 22-Sept. 12, 2013

The Dlmtes rther italyecmpass sme the mstbeatl hkg areas thewrld: gree alpe meadws,stretchg betwee charmgllage-stdded alleys adcraggy, awe-sprg karstmtas. Trd extesetercectg tpaths adst well-placed rg (hghalttde mta hts).Stay three- ad r-star h-tels each ght, wth btesbet breakasts ad mlt-

crse eeg meals clded the trp prce.Trp classcat s pper

mderate t stres adhkg days are lg, bt pace smderate.Price: $3,750 Leaders: SharHgshead ad Pal Gather,[email protected], 425-957-4548 r 425-260-9316.

Presiential Traversein New EnglanAug. 31-Sept. 8, 2013

Hke early 25 mles theams tral the east, theAppalacha Tral, ad traersets presdetal peaksall abe

4,000 t. ad amed ater eghtu.S. presdets. The hghestpeak, Mt. Washgt, s 6,289t. A lght daypack s all thats eeded, as the hts prded ad beddg.Party limit: 9.Price: $998 (icldes ldgg,all meals, trasers rm Prt-

lad, Mae t THs ad retr,shttle trasers). Leader:Patt Plsky, meaysprts@

me.cm, 206-525-7464.Tre Austrias Zillertalhut-to-hutSept. 7-22, 2013

Ths tg cmbesspectaclar alpe sceery,Erpea cltre, ad greathkg. or 50-mle lp hast all: glacated 11,000-t.mtas, hgh alpe passes,deep alleys, wateralls,gemsbk mta atelpesad alpe rses.n techcal expertse

reqred, bt expect lg,stres days ad smealpe scramblg wth xedcables ad ladders. Hts arelarge s/gest hses. Carryly a daypack. The eght htshae d ad beddg.Price: $3,000. Please

cmplete the websteapplcat by Aprl 1. Leader:Crag Mller, cragmller@

cmcast.et.Tre Nepals Mustang,the forienkingomOct. 2-22, 2013

Ths tg cmbes amderate trek wth ews gat Hmalaya peaks,Tbeta Bddhst cltre,mtaeerg hstry, adspectaclar arplae fghts.Hghest alttde s ly12,595 eet. We wll camp tets. Prters wll hal yr

erght gear, s y carryly a daypack.Price: $3,500. Pleasecmplete the websteapplcat by March 1.Leader: Crag Mller,[email protected].

The San Juan Mountains are a

hgh ad rgged sect Clradssther Rckes, pctated by sx

peaks er 14,000 eleat, ad sme

the lgest ew-lled ad remte

stretches tral that y ca d

aywhere the u.S.

Ad lke s mch the Rckes, the

peaks rse abe clrl rck ad ast

expases wldfwer-lled meadws.

The 483-mle Clrad Tral, whch rs

alg the crest the Sa Jas ad

beyd rm ear Drag, Clrad, tear Deer, has bee amed a le-lst

trp by Backpacker magaze readers,

ad as e Adrew Skrkas Tp-

10 Lg Trals National Geographic

Adventure magaze.

The Mtaeers wll be hstg a

backpack trp Agst 2013 alg

80 mles ths amazg tral, wth

sde trps t explre the abled peaks

the Greaders as well as the earby

Chcag Bas, a stg, hagg alley

srrded by 14-ers.

Trasprtat ad respply lgstcs

ca be cmplcated ths t--the-

way ctry, s were makg t smple

by prdg a shttle t the tralhead

ad a respply mdway, cmplete wth a

catered camp der, breakast ad ht

shwers.

As cg the cake ths amazg

experece, well sh r trp wth a

rde the hstrc Drag-Slert

narrw Gage tra alg the lely

Amas Rer back t r startg pt

Drag.

Fr aye wh years t reallyget away ad experece mles

rgettable tral hggg the

Ctetal Ddewth ew thers

ard the ctetal uted

States yll be hard pressed t d a

better ee tha ths.

The Colorado Trail through the San Juan Mountains

by Cheryl Talert

Looking down on the Animas River Basin


29/41


offbelayArt Nation, lietime member

Hads jed tgether, Meaytes da-

ced ther weekly rtal prayer r the skes

t pe p ad trasrm the ladscape

t a wter wderlad. Sw, sw,

sw, sw! they chated, mg ad

rasg ther hads pwards, llwg

the Spke Jes gk hs aswerg

meldy as they backed t ther crcle.

Arthr nat was the ceter, playg

hs la, dacg, ad leadg s all a

celebrat lg le t ts llest. Ar-

thr W.C. nat certaly dd jst that, ad

thrgh The Mtaeers, he d sme

hs greatest expresss jy le.

Arthr W. C. nat, a Mtaeers le-

tme member 65 years, ded pem-

a nember 11, 2012. He was 84.

Sce jg The Mtaeers, he was

best kw as a Meay Sk Ht reglar. D-

rg the all wrk partes, he wld desg

ad x aythg lg electrcty, rm

sd ad cmmcat systems t rpe

tw saety gates. He als helped desg ad

bld brdges, ad kept hs temperametalcha saws serce t be aalable whe-

eer eeded.

Drg the wter, he was a ad dw-

hll sker wh als led may crss-ctry

sk trs p t the srrdg hlls.

Drg the eegs, he wld er hs

mscal talet the rm the Satrday

ght lk dace, weldg a la r a bass

t play wth hs reds a weekly bass.

Arthr was a clmber, as well, cmple-

tg the clmbg crse ard 1960. i

addt t reachg the smmts all the

Pacc nrthwest lcac peaks, he was

part a 1961 team that cmpleted rst

ascets Mt. Qee Mary ad Grdel-

hr Peak the Caada Yk terrtry.

The ame the latter s beleed t be

hs dg, wth GnuRDS (Grb nbbled

uder Really Desperate Stats) beg

a term he jkgly sed t descrbe the

lt ad crmbs at the bttm a weary

mtaeers pcket.

Arthrs gety als played a rle

the elt the ce ax glssade tech-

qe, tlmately clded Mtaeers

crse strct.

Arthr was als acte at the Ktsap

Frest Theater, where he played msc r

prdcts ad desged prtable sd

systems at a tme whch they were rare.

The Frest Theater was als the ste hs

marrage ceremy t Latrelle Hastgs

1969.

David Hambly, skilled climber

A Mtaeers member 45 years ad

sklled hgh alpe clmber, Dad Hambly

ded octber 2012 at the age 73.

Hs pass r clmbg ad mtaeer-

g was ly matched by hs err r

rg.

A Beg egeer wh grew p

Fshpds Brstl, uted Kgdm, Dad

tk the termedate clmbg crse, sk

mtaeerg ad wter trael crse

wth The Mtaeers. A u.S. Rer

the Year the Masters age ds

1980, Dads zeal r rg t well wth

a eqal zest r clmbg.

S ater hs arral the Pacc

nrthwest, 1966, he teamed p wth lcal

clmbers the crags ad smmts the

Cascade. Wth a ew years hs mta-

eerg terest expaded ad he bega aqest that led hm t tackle sme the

hghest ad mst dclt mtas the

wrld.

i 1978 Dad jed a Brtsh-Amerca

team t make the seeth recrded ascet

idas 25,643 nada De. Ths dclt

ascet had bee preceded by a ascet

idas 23,360 Trsl 1975. Dad wet

t attempt Eerest rm the rth 1984

(reachg 28,200) ad rm the sth

1988 (reachg 26,400). He reached the

smmt tw 8,000-meter peaks: Ch

oy 1986 ad Brad Peak 1992.

i all hs hgh-alttde mtaeerg

Dad eer sed spplemetary xyge,

stead preerrg t make hs attempts

a classcal lght-weght style.

Dad ed hs pass r rg ad

mtaeerg, as well as bk cllectg,

ater he retred rm a 45-year career at

Beg 2011 ad tl the day he ded. A

memral serce was held Jaary 6, 2013wth remembraces beg made t The

Mtaeers.

Fred Ostmann, ski instructor

A chershed leader ad strctr M-

taeers sk crses r the Tacma Brach,

Fred ostma ded rm a exteded

lless Jaary 7, 2012 at the age 73.

Fred, wh jed The Mtaeers

1996, trdced may begg skers

ad Mtaeers ewbes t the ad

adetre backctry skg. He was

kw r hs great cersatal ablty

a wde arety tpcs drg dres

t ad rm the swy slpes ad trals.

He was als kw r hs atral teachg

skll as well as hs pechat r perect,

carel t eer let t bstrct the learg

prcess wth stdets.

Br nrmbrg, Germay 1939,

he emgrated t the uted States 1950ad med t Tacma 1985. Drg hs

career Fred was a teacher, sclptr, arch-

tect, ad cstrct maager. A lg

hsbad ad ather, he was als a taleted

dratsma ad desger wh ejyed t

ly skg bt mta clmbg, hkg,

bcyclg, swmmg ad ckg.


30/41


ACCOUNTING - TAX SERVICES

Vivienne E. Mitchell (Jed 1983)

Hersman, Serles, Almond PLLC

520 Krklad Way, Ste. 300

Krklad, WA 98033

www.cpahsa.cm

[email protected]

425-602-9272

BANKING - LENDING

Leah Schulz (Jed 2006)

Tri Star Finance

1400 112th Ae. SE, Ste. 100Bellee, WA 98004

www.leahdschlz.cm

[email protected]

206-523-1288

BODY WORK

Christopher Hall (Jed 2011)

Chris Hall DC, CCSP Chiropractic Sports

Physician

1215 120th Ae nE, Ste. 100

Bellee, WA 98005

www.drchrshall.cm

[email protected]

Hope Maltz (Jed 2007)

Moving Into Comfort Feldenkrais Method

1409 140th Pl. nE

Bellee, WA 98007

www.MgitCmrt.cm

[email protected]

425-998-6683

CONTRACTOR - ROOFING

Louie Coglas (Jed 1987)

Louie Company Roong Specialist

3109 228th St. SW, Brer, WA

www.LeCmpay.cm

[email protected]

206-963-4521

WA Lc #: LouiEC902C6

Mountaineers Business Members value the spirit, volunteerism and history of The Mountaineers and support theorganizations mission: . . . to enrich the community by helping people explore, learn about, conserve and enjoy the lands and

waters of the Pacic Northwest. They are a community within the community of The Mountaineersall sharing the same interest

and passion for the outdoors. We thank the following Mountaineers business owners for their support.

FINANCIAL SERVICES

Mearl bergeson (Jed 2011)

Merrill Lynch Wealth Management

1215 4th Ae., Ste. 2600

Seattle, WA 98161

www.a.ml.cm/mearl_berges

[email protected]

206-464-5632

REAL ESTATE - SALES

Leah d. Schulz (Jed 2006)

The Force Realty

12507 Bel-Red Rd. #103Bellee, WA 98005

www.RealEstateByLeah.cm

[email protected]

206-523-1288

Cisca Wery (Jed 2003)

Windermere Real Estate Company

8401 35th Ae. nE

Seattle, WA 98115

www.LakeWA.cm

[email protected]

206-715-7187

REAL ESTATE - APPRAISALS

bruce Wolverton (Jed 1992)

Frontier Appraisal Services

Serg Kg, Shmsh,

islad & Perce Ctes

www.FrterApprasals.cm

[email protected]

425-344-2296

SOFTWARE - GIS - MAPPING

Tom Gasins (Jed 2011)

LandPrint.com 3-D terrain models

9302 157th Pl. nE

Redmd, WA 98052

www.LadPrt.cm

[email protected]

206-790-7640

TRAVEL SERVICES

Amrose bittner (Jed 2009)

Red Lantern Journeys Asia tours & treks

1000 n. nrthlake Way, Ste. H

Seattle, WA 98103

www.redlaterjreys.cm

[email protected]

206-568-0710

businessdirectory

Want to be a Mountaineers Business Member?

Desged r the small usiness owners r mdst, ths categry Mta-

eers membershp prdes a pprtty r cmmtted members t spprt The

Mtaeers at a ee hgher leel. i recgt ths creased spprt ad

addt t all ther member beets, bsess members recee a Bsess Member

Drectry lstg ths magaze ad r webste, as well as tats t specal

membershp eets.

T d t mre abt pcmg bsess member eets ad pprttes t

get mre led wth ths grp, ctact Leah Schlz a emal, leah@leahdschlz.

cm r by phe at 206-523-1288.

Fr a complete list membershp beets ad hw t access them, see r

Memer benetspage: www.mtaeers.rg/membershp/beets.cm. Y ca

als d aswers t reqetly asked qests abt the prgram le a The

Mtaeers Spprt page: http://help.mtaeers.rg. or ctact @m-

taeers.rg; 206-521-6001.

An rememer: as a mss-based ad lteer-dre, 501(c)(3) prt, all

bt $10 yr des are tax-euctile t the ll extet the law.

To learn more about becominga Mountaineers Business Member:[email protected],206-521-6001


31/41


membershipmatters

Proles: our members make the dierence

UPCOMING EVENTSRaical Reels:Tuesay, March 12, 7 p.m.The Mtaeers Seattle Prgram Ceter (see ad belw).

by Valerie Norman

Membershp Prgram Maager

THANK YOU MEMBERS! Last mth as part theEach oe Reach oe challege, we asked y t share yr

Mtaeers stres ad descrbe yr w wrds what y

ale mst abt beg a Mtaeer. Here s what sme y

had t say:

"i jed t take the Alpe Scram-

blg Crse, ad sce the ie als

take the salg, kayakg, ad basc

ad termedate clmbg crses.

i am w a basc agat crse

leader, sharg wth ew Mta-eers what my metrs taght me abt maps ad cmpasses.

its a great eelg kwg that i am able t pass alg the

shared wsdm ths terrc rgazat ad t help thers

be sae ad hae grad adetres r spectaclar mta

ad water wlderess. Bill Ashby, member since 2008

i really ejyed partcpatg ctze

scece as a Alpe Lakes Weed Watcher. it

gae me added prpse r my tgs t the

great tdrs r area.

Yoshiko Miltimore, member since 2002

Why d i apprecate The Mta-

eers? i'e made lelg reds ad

leared hw t hke 20 mles a day

the Cdtg Hkg Seres. nw, as a

leader r the crse, i ca pay t rward

ad teach thers t d the same.

Steve Payne, member since 2006

. . . Beyd the bs beets

deals bks, gear, etc.i lke the

dea that i am part a rgazat

that s led stewardshp the

lad ad s helpg the ext geera-

t apprecate what they hae . . . The

Mtaeers s a srce persal

ctact wth lke-mded sls lkg

t the tdrs r the adetre they eed."

Leonard Ingalls, member since 2011

Mountaineers members understand better tha aye

the ale belgg t a grp that shares yr le the

tdrs. it s de t the tal spprt members lke y that

we are able t cte r recreat, edcat ad csera-

t erts the cmmty. n matter what yr tdr gals

arewhether y wat t get t t ga a smmt, get ew sklls

t ga the leadershp edge, r jst hae wth reds tsde

The Mtaeers ca help y get there.

Have you used your benets lately? Fr a cmplete lst

member beets ad hw t access them, y ca always lg

t r webste ad check t r Member Beets page, www.

mtaeers.rg/membershp/beets.cm, r ctact Member

Serces, 206-521-6001, r @mtaeers.rg.

OLYMPIA:friay, March 8, 7:30 pm at the Captl Theater

olympa. TiCKETS: Aalable at The Alpe Experece,

dwtw olympa.

SEATTLE: Tuesay, March 12, 7 pm at Mtaeers Se-

attle Prgram Ceter, 7700 Sad Pt Way nE. TiCKETS:

www.brwpapertckets.cm. inFo: www.mtaeers.rg/

radcalreels.


32/41


Welcome to our seven branches o The MountaineersPrpelled by dedcated ad sklled lteers, all braches er a mber crses ad semars. May crses, sch as clmbg,

scramblg, kayakg, backctry skg ad thers, reqre a set leared sklls t ejy saely ad llw a cmm crrclm rm

brach t brach. Sme, hweer, may hae slght dereces the ames the crses they hld cmm, sch as Swshe Leel

1 ad Swshe Lte; Swshe r Backctry Sk Crse ad Wter Trael; r Salg Crse ad Crewg Crse. Jst lk r the

descrpts whe stg crse rmat le r ths Mountaineer. See crse eets the G Gde sect ths maga-

ze. Althgh r prgram crrcla are crdated t meet Mtaeers-wde stadards ad plces, each brach ers a slghtly

deret far r character t ts ergs. Thgh y may wat t j the brach earest t yr hme, y may j ay brach

yr chsg. nte that ce y are a member y may partcpate trps r crses ay brach. oe way t ga a taste test a

partclar brach s t atted a ew/prspecte members meetg. Geeral dates these meetgs are ted der each brach head-

g. Fr all crret

everest americans on everest perspectives: then and now mountaineers celebrate 50th training for...

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