AMS Box 566, 3rd St., Talkeetna, AK 99676 ph: 907.733.1016 fax: 907.733.1362 info@climbalaska.org www.climbalaska.org

EQUIPMENT LIST: MOUNTAINEERING COURSES

AMS Gear Room

Expeditions into the Alaska Range are equipment intensive. The winter conditions, crevassed glaciers, avalanche hazards all have different equipment requirements. Our gear keeps us comfortable in extreme conditions which helps secure success of any expedition. AMS teaches survival skills, but we emphasize skills that prevent survival situations from happening in the first place; starting with outfitting. Our personal equipment needs to be warm, lightweight, easy to use, and durable in the cold. We realize many of you do not have every item needed or do not wish to haul it to Alaska. AMS stocks every item on this list and it is available for rent or purchase at AMS. This list serves as a guideline for what individuals typically use for the course activities. The exact gear you fly onto the glacier with depends on your final equipment check in Talkeetna.

The morning of the first day of your course is spent with an instructor going over a final equipment check. During this time, anything you are not sure about can be discussed with the instructor. Extra gear you do not need on the expedition can be stored at AMS. If you are unsure whether or not you will need it, or if you think it might be extra, bring it.

Everything AMS rents is available for sale at the AMS Mountain Shop. We give a 15% discount to all AMS students.

REQUIRED EQUIPMENT Please label your gear with your name or an identifying mark or piece of colored tape.

RNT - The item may be RENTED at AMS.

$$$ - The item is for PURCHASE ONLY at AMS.

N/A - Item is NOT AVAILABLE at AMS: you need to obtain before your arrival in Talkeetna

F O O T W E A R

$$$ WOOL OR SYNTHETIC EXPEDITION WEIGHT SOCKS: 4 PAIRS. We recommend that you wear a combination of two thick socks or one thick and one liner sock (or vapor barrier liner) while climbing. This provides the maximum sweat absorption and reduces the chance of foot problems such as blisters or immersion foot. When you are layering your socks make sure they fit over each other and inside your boots comfortably with no areas of tightness. AMS pick: Patagonia liner socks and Ultra-Heavyweight Mountaineering Sock.

RNT DOUBLE MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS: 1 PAIR. Plastic shell with removable liner. They should fit comfortably with the sock combination and have plenty of wiggle room in the toe. Heel should not lift more than 1/2 inch when walking. Kick the toe of the boot against a suitable hard object and your toes should not hit the end of the boot until the 3rd swing. Single boots are not suitable for multi-day winter camping because you cannot remove the liner to dry out and keep warm at night. It is common to wear a half size or more above your normal shoe size to accommodate the socks. AMS pick: Scarpa Inverno.

RNT GAITERS: 1 PAIR. Keeps snow out of your boots. They need to be large enough to fit around double plastic boots. Shell pants with internal gaiters are OK. AMS pick: Outdoor Research Crocodiles.

AMS Box 566, 3rd St., Talkeetna, AK 99676 ph: 907.733.1016 fax: 907.733.1362 info@climbalaska.org www.climbalaska.org

RNT INSULATED CAMP BOOTIES: 1 PAIR. Synthetic filled camp booties with foam foot bed used around camp and while sleeping. AMS pick: AMS Fleece Bootie or Forty Below Camp Bootie.

RNT ROCK CLIMBING SHOES: 1 PAIR, used on most courses. Fit should not be too tight. Dark soled running shoes will also work.

U P P E R - B O D Y ( 4 insulat ion layers and a shel l jacket)

$$$ LIGHT WEIGHT TOP: 1 LAYER. Light weight polypropylene, capilene, or wool top. AMS pick: Patagonia Capilene 1 T-shirt or Crew. $$$ MEDIUM WEIGHT TOP: 1 LAYER. Medium weight polypropylene, capilene, or wool top. This should layer over your light weight top. AMS

pick: Patagonia Capilene 2 or 3. RNT SYNTHETIC OR WOOL JACKET OR SWEATER: 1 LAYER. Heavy weight top that fits over the first two layers easily. AMS pick: Patagonia R2

Jacket or Patagonia Hooded Micro Puff Jacket or Patagonia Nano Puff Pullover (warmer layer for April or September). RNT SHELL JACKET: 1 LAYER. Waterproof/breathable hard shell and roomy enough to fit over insulation layers. AMS pick: Patagonia Rain

Shadow Jacket or the Patagonia Stretch Ascent Jacket. RNT INSULATED PARKA: 1 LAYER. Large, roomy down or synthetic parka with hood. This should fit comfortably over all other layers. AMS pick:

Patagonia Das Parka.

L O W E R - B O D Y ( 2 insulat ion layers and shel l pants)

$$$ UNDERWEAR: 2-3 LAYERS. Capilene or silk underwear, no cotton. AMS pick: Patagonia Active Briefs. $$$ LIGHT WEIGHT LONG UNDERWEAR: 1 LAYER. One light or midweight pair of capilene or wool. AMS pick: Patagonia Capilene 1 or 2 Bottoms. RNT SHELL PANTS: 1 LAYER. Waterproof/breathable fabric. Roomy enough to fit over layers and underneath your insulated overpants. Full or

partial length side zippers to be able to fit over plastic boots. AMS pick: Patagonia Rain Shadow Pants or Patagonia Stretch Ascent Pants. RNT INSULATED OVERPANTS: 1 LAYER. Synthetic-filled shell overpants with full side zips. Fleece pants are ok. AMS pick: Mountain Hardwear

Compressor Pant.

S L E E P I N G E Q U I P M E N T

RNT SLEEPING BAG: 1. Rated to -15F. with approximately 4-5 pounds of synthetic insulation. Should have a hood and collar that can be drawn close to your neck. Roomy enough to include you, 2 water bottles, and your liner boots. AMS pick: Mountain Hardwear Lamina -15.

RNT SLEEPING BAG COMPRESSION STUFF SACK: 1. Compresses sleeping bag in order to fit in pack. RNT/$$$ FULL LENGTH SLEEPING PADS: 2. Combination of two closed-cell foam pads or a combination of one foam pad and one Thermarest. RNT HALF LENGTH PAD: 1. Half length foam pad or Crazy Creek chair used as a seat in your snow kitchen. RNT SLEEPING PAD STUFF SACK: 1. You should be able to roll up both pads and insert them in one stuff sack to be lashed on the outside of your

pack. The sack protects the pads from snow and punctures.

B A C K P A C K / S T O R A G E

RNT INTERNAL FRAME PACK: 1. The main compartment should be approximately 5,000 cubic inches (80 - 90 Liters). It should have attachment points for sleeping pads, ice axe, and crampons. AMS pick: Mountain Hardwear BMG or Lowe Contour.

RNT SMALL STUFF SACKS: 1-3. For organizing personal gear, food, and clothing. RNT LARGE STUFF SACKS: 1. Light weight, 16x 24 for storing extra clothing in your tent. $$$ GARBAGE BAGS: 3. Large trash bags for lining the inside of sleeping bag and clothing stuff sacks. RNT SLED DUFFEL: 1. A large, light weight duffel bag with full zipper, approximately 40 long and 16 in diameter. RNT DAY PACK: 1, used on most courses. Approximately 3500 cu. inches (50 - 60 Liters), with lash points for ice axe & crampons. May be able to

use your big pack if it cinches down conveniently. RNT LASH STRAPS: 2. For strapping sleeping pad to the outside of your pack.

T R A V E L E Q U I P M E N T

6 day mountaineering courses use snow shoes (with ski poles). 12 day mountaineering course students have the option to use skis.

RNT SNOWSHOES: 1 PAIR. The lacing or buckles should be big enough to accommodate plastic double boots. Regular size (25) for body weights under 200 lbs. Size large (30) if you weigh over 200 lbs. AMS pick: MSR Lightening Ascent.

RNT ALPINE-TOURING SKIS and CLIMBING SKINS: 1 PAIR of each. Skis must have a releasable binding with run-away straps. RNT SKI POLES: 1 PAIR. Poles need wrist loops and snow baskets. RNT AVALANCHE TRANSCEIVER: 1. Transmits and receives on 457 kHz. Bring a set of new batteries. $$$ COMPASS: 1. Basic baseplate map compass with declination scale.

S U N

$$$ BANDANA: 1. The only cotton on the list. Used to clean sunglasses and protect ears and neck from sun. AMS pick: paisley white. $$$ GLACIER GLASSES: 1. Should block 100% UV and should have a VLT (Visual Light Transmission) rating of 4 to 12% - meaning they have dark

lenses. If you wear prescription lenses, bring your own prescription sunglasses or dark lens ski goggles to fit over your glasses. $$$ SUNGLASSES CASE: 1. Storage protection for the glacier glasses.

AMS Box 566, 3rd St., Talkeetna, AK 99676 ph: 907.733.1016 fax: 907.733.1362 info@climbalaska.org www.climbalaska.org

$$$ GOGGLES: 1. Good quality, double lens, 100% UV protection. Ski goggles provide warmth and visibility in blowing snow. $$$ LIP BALM: 1. Should have sun protection rating. $$$ SUNSCREEN: 1, 2 OZ TUBE OR EQUIVALENT, SPF 20 or greater. Zinc oxide is recommended for people with a history of sunburn.

T O I L E T R I E S

$$$ ROLL OF TOILET PAPER: 1. Put in a zip lock bag. $$$ HAND DISINFECTANT: 1. Travel size bottle of alcohol-based hand cleaner; goes in the zip lock with the TP. $$$ HANDI WIPES: 1 per day. Individual travel size so they can be easily thawed in your pocket. $$$ TRAVEL SIZED TOOTH PASTE: 1. AMS pick: Toms of Maine. $$$ TRAVEL TOOTHBRUSH: 1. AMS pick: 2 piece where handle becomes cover. $$$ (WOMEN) TAMPONS: Bring a supply just in case, change in environment can change your normal cycle timing.

H E A D

$$$ BASEBALL CAP OR SUN HAT: 1. Used to shield your face from the sun. AMS pick: AMS nylon baseball cap. $$$ WOOL OR FLEECE HAT: 1. Warm ski hat. AMS pick: Mountain Hardwear Windstopper Dome Perignon. $$$ NECK GAITER: 1. Protects your neck, chin, and nose during windy conditions. AMS pick: AMS brand $$$ FLEECE HOOD or BALACLAVA: 1. Face, and additional neck protection. This can be used in additi