elements of textile design class xi (half yearly …

Paper: ELEMENTS OF TEXTILE DESIGN-777

Year: 2013 – 14

Time: 2 Hrs

Marks: 50

1. Weightage to Objectives:

Objectives K U A S Total

Percentage of Marks 30% 30% 30% 10% 100%

Marks 15 15 15 5 50

2. Weightage to form Questions:

Type of Questions EQ SQ VSQ OQ Total

Number of Questions 3 (each 5) 6 (each 3) 6 (each 2) 5 (each 1)

Marks Allotted 15 18 12 5 50

Estimated Time 30 40 30 10 120*

Half Yearly Examination

1. Unit – 1 20

2. Unit – 2 30

ELEMENTS OF TEXTILE DESIGN CLASS XI

(HALF YEARLY EXAMINATION)

UNITS OQ (1 mark) VSQ (2 Marks)

SQ (3 Marks) EQ ( 5 marks) Total

Introduction to textile industry

2 2 3 1 20

Design for various types of textiles

3 4 3 2 30

No. of Questions

5 6 6 3 50

1. Scheme of Sections:

Section Type of Questions Choice Number of questions

A OQ 5(no choice) 5

B VSQ 6 (no choice) 6

C SQ 6(no choice) 6

D EQ 3 (choice within questions) 3

3. Difficulty Level:

Difficult 10% of Marks

Average 50% of Marks

Easy 40% of Marks

Abbreviations Used:

K – KnowledgeU – Understanding A – Application S – Skill

EA/EQ – Essay Answer/Question SA/SQ – Short Answer/Question

VSA/VSQ – Very Short Answer/Question O/OQ – Objective /Objective Question

CLASS XI (Theory)

HALF YEARLY EXAMINATION

ELEMENTS OF TEXTILE DESIGN

Time : 2 hrs MM-50

Instructions to candidates

1. Attempt all sections.

2. Illustrate your answers wherever possible.

Section A

1. What do you understand by the term ‘Silk-route’? 1 Mark

2. When did sewing machine come into existence? 1 Mark

3. Define the term ‘warp yarn’ 1 Mark

4. Why knitted fabrics are highly stretchable? 1 Mark

5. What kind of designs can be created on a jacquard ? 1 Mark

Section B

6. Name two cotton producing and two silk producing countries. 2 Marks

7. Differentiate between cellulosic and protein fibers. 2 Marks

8. Which is the oldest method of printing? How is it done? 2 Marks

9. What is pigment printing? 2 Marks

10. How is English smoking done? 2 Marks

11. What are the points involved in a design agreement? 2 Marks

Section C

12. Discuss any 6 segments of textile industry. 3 Marks

13. Write the various stages involved in cleaning of fiber (which is to be converted into a

yarn). 3 Marks

14. “A textile designer needs to visualize a product and use creativity in coordination with

the technical & functional aspects of a fabric and the finished product made out of this

fabric and the finished product made out of this fabric”. Give examples to support a

statement. 3 Marks

15. Differentiate between Dobby, Jacquard & pile fabrics. 3 Marks

16. Discuss any three popular & important print designs. 3 Marks

17. Name the popular resist technique of Japanese textiles & how is it done? 3 Marks

Section D

18. a) Based on the season change & diversified requirements, textile industry is divided into

two parts one of years by season. Name & explain them.

b) Write any four steps of “Planning’ in making of a product from raw material stage to

reaching of the product to store for sale. (2+3=5)

19. What do you understand by the term embellishment? Explain the following surface

embellishments:-

a) Embroidery b) Applique c) Fabric gathering d) thread pulling Technique.

(1+1+1+1+1=5)

20. There are various methods of printing textiles. Briefly explain screen printed, Mill printed

& digital printed textiles. 5

Answer Key

ELEMENTS OF TEXTILE DESIGN (Half Yearly)

Class XI 1. A twisting path across lower Asia that connects Mediterranean lands with far east.

2. 19th

Century

3. Lengthwise yarn, parallel to selvedge.

4. Because of presence of loops

5. Fiber & intricate designs

6. Cotton—China, India, USA, Pakistan Silk—China, India, Maland

7. Cellulosic—Plant fibers

Protein—Animal source

8. Block printing, fabric is stretched & engraved wooden block dipped in colour to transfer

the design impression on the fabric.

9. Used on light background, dyes directly applied to the surfaces.

10. Pulling of fabric very closely forming rows of small gathers.

11. A) Designer will keep the design discreet until the product is launched.

b) Payment terms

12. a) Supply of raw material

b) Fiber & Yarn industry

c) Fabrics

d) Carpets & rug industry

e) Textile process & finishing

13. a) Ginning

b) Blending

c)Carding

d) Combing

e) Drawing

14. a)Functional aspect b) Technical aspect c) Creative aspect

15. Dobby—Geometric & Organic design

Jacquard—Finer & Intricate

Pile- Protecting threads.

16. a) Floral b) Geometric c) Abstract d) Conversational e) Ethnic

17. Shibori—fabric is tightly folded, stitched twisted & compressed.

18 a)Spring summer & Autumn winter

b)Forecast study, design concept, final design, sample development, approval,

production dispatch, warehouse, products in stores, on shelf.

19. a) Embroidery –use of needle & thread

b) Appliqué shaped fabric is cut and applied in stores, on shelf.

c) Fabric gathering running stitch is used to create frills & ruffles.

d)Thread pulling technique—to create beautiful perforation.

Embellishment—Decoration fabric surface

20. Screen Printing –on padded tables, screen is stretched on a frame

Mill printed—Produces large quantities uses cylindrical drums with fine mesh.

Digital—Photographic prints & for transfer printing special paper is used.

ANNUAL PAPER

Paper: ELEMENTS OF TEXTILE DESIGN

Year: 2013 – 14

Time: 2 Hrs

Marks: 50




Marks 15 15 15 5 50


Type of Questions EQ SQ VSQ OQ Total

Number of Questions 3 (each 5) 6 (each 3) 6 (each 2) 5 (each 1)



* 10 minutes for paper reading

Annual Examination

1. Unit – 1 15

3. Unit – 2 7

4. Unit – 3 6

5. Unit – 4 22

ELEMENTS OF TEXTILE DESIGN CLASS XI

(ANNUAL EXAMINATION)

UNITS OQ (1 mark) VSQ (2 Marks) SQ (3 Marks) EQ ( 5 marks) Total

Introduction to textile industry

2 1 2 1 15

The Primary components of textile design

2 1 1 -- 7

Textile design Development

1 1 1 -- 6

Design for various types of textiles

-- 3 2 2 22

No. of Questions

5 6 6 3 50

2. Scheme of Sections:


A OQ 5(no choice) 5

B VSQ 6 (Internal choice) 6

C SQ 6(no choice) 6

D EQ 3 (Internal choice) 3




Easy 40% of Marks

Abbreviations Used:

K – KnowledgeU – Understanding A – Application S – Skill



CLASS XI (Theory)

ANNUAL EXAMINATION

ELEMENTS OF TEXTILE DESIGN

Time : 2 hrs MM-50



2. Illustrate your answers wherever possible

Section A

1. According to anthropologists what was the first form of body covering for human beings?

1 Mark

2. When and where was ‘linen’ fabric discovered? 1 Mark

3. What is a motif? 1 Mark

4. How is a shape created? 1 Mark

5. Give an example of absolute symmetrical balanced composition. 1 Mark

Section B

6. Elaborate the term ‘Khadi’. Explain the significance of Khadi. 2 Marks

7. How emphasis is used as an important tool for designing 2 Marks

8. Why sweaters and jackets usually made of thick knitted fabrics? 2 Marks

Or

Who produced first knitting machine? What was the earlier type of knitting known as?

(1+1=2)

9. How is applique used as a surface ornamentation? Explain. 2 Marks

10. Sanya wants to use yellow colour on a black coloured top. Which technique of printing

showed be adopted by her and how? Explain. 2 Marks

11. How can you create a design using brick repeat and mirror repeat effect? 2 Marks

Section C

12. List down any six segments of textile industry. 3 Marks

13. State the difference between importer and exporters. 3 Marks

14. Radhika wants to revamp her room. List down and explain the sources of inspiration that

she can follow. 3 Marks

15. As a designer what are the different ways for submitting a design to a company? Explain

the role of copyright in securing a design. 3 Marks

16. Match the surface embellishments techniques with the achievable look on fabric 3marks

a) Pleats 1) Bengal

b) Zardosi 2) Thread Pulling technique

c) Smoking 3) Embroidery

d) Perforations 4) Lucknow

e) Chikankari 5) Lattice

f) Kantha 6) School dress shirts

17. Describe three basic types of repetition. 3 Marks

Section D

18. Rajeev is working in a textile firm as a textile designer. Mention two areas in which a

textile designers work. Explain in detail the role of a textile designer. 1+4=5 Marks

Or

Define the term fibres. Briefly explain fibres on the basis of their origin. 1+2+2=5

19. Classify five different types of woven fabrics. 1+4=5 Marks

Or

Explain the following terms in details: (1X5=5)

i) Ikat

ii) Bandhni

iii) Batik

iv) Shibori

v) Jiaxie

20. What do you understand by the term ‘Printing’? Explain 4 popular methods of printing

textiles 5 Marks

Or

“The various types of print designs and related terminologies are associated with print

design technology” Discuss the important print designs. 5 Marks

Answer Key

ANNUAL EXAMINATION

Section A

1. Animal Skins, Leaves and barks

2. 5000 B.C., linen

3. A core unit or design element with certain defined characteristic based on a particular

style of aesthetics.

4. When the two starting ends of a line turn & join together.

5. Chess Board.

Section B

6. Hand spun & Hand woven fabric

Significance: Self-employment & became a symbolic as well as active part of the India

freedom movement.

7. Attract attention and clearly state the importance of the idea presented. Adds a charm

which harmony alone cannot give.

8. To increase the thermal insulation & pores in the fabric traps air that retain heat and

keeps the body warm.

Or

William hec& his brother James hec.

‘Arabic knitting’.

9. Fabric piece in a particular shape is cut and applied on the surface of another fabric,

Edges of the fabric are stitched or embroidered.

10. Discharge printing—The Fabric is dyed in dark colours first, thereafter chemicals are

used to remove dark colours from certain area of a fabric & then light colours are

printed.

11. Brick repeat—Design unit is side-ways either left or right and in second row the unit

shift halfway across in horizontal direction.

Mirror repeat—can be mirrored in an opposite direction.

12. a) Supply of raw material

b)Fibre& Yarn industry

c)Fabrics

d) Carpets & rugs

e)Textile process & finishing

f)Textile machinery

13. Importer –countries buying product form other countries

Exporter- Supplies goods to other countries.

14. a) Nature

b) man- Made objects

c) combinations

d) designs by other designers

15. CD or DVD for soft copies, actual size print outs, fabric swatches and other material

boards along with technical specification sheets.

Role of copyright-it is the exclusive rights provided to the creator of an original work,

generally for a limited time period. Designers can keep the rights with them and ask for a

royalty that is a certain fee decided for each piece.

16. a-6

b-3

c-2

d-5

e-4

f-1

17. a) Sequence

b) Rhythm

c) Balance

18. Interiors and Home furnishings (soft furnishings and carpets) and Fabrics for clothing

(fashion fabrics or technical textiles for e.g. fire-proof fabrics).

Role- any 8 points

a) coordinate with clients, marketing and buying staff to plan and develop designs.

b) They need to accurately understand and represent customer's requirements.

c) creates design ideas and develops samples for presentation to customers.

d) incorporates customer's feedback and ensures required changes in design and sample.

e) checks and approves finished samples and production standards. .

f) Needs to work as a part of team and handles design and development through guiding the team

as well.

g) Using specialized software and computer-aided design (CAD) programs to develop a range of

new designs.

h) expected to experiment with colour, fabric and texture.

i) maintain up-to-date knowledge of new designs and up gradation in production and

textile technology.

j) keep developing new design concepts which build the design archive.

k) make regular market visits to update their understanding of market trends and

requirements.

l) Spotting fashion trends in textile design by reading forecasts and trade magazines is

another essential element of their role.

m) Sourcing new fabrics, various trims and materials at trade fairs, suppliers, market and

antique shops.

n) need to attend various trade shows, either as a visitor or as a company representative.

o) keep developing a business network which helps them find new suppliers for various

textile techniques which can be incorporated in textile design.

p) In case a textile designer is self-employed, apart from designs, he/she also manage

marketing, everyday business dealings and promotional activities.

Or

Basic building block of fabric is called as fibre.

Classification-

natural-cellulosic and protein

Man-made- synthetic and regenerated

19.a) handloom

b) dobby

c) jacquard

d)pile

e)narrow width

OR

Ikat- Resisting the yarns (Ikat): In this technique yarns of warp or weft or both are tied using

threads in a very calculated pattern method.

Bandhni- Tie and Dye (Bandhni): This technique is used on fabric instead of yarns. The fabric is

tied in certain patterns using threads. Sometimes small beads or food grains are used in the tied

areas to get different circular shapes.

Batik-. Batik: Batik is a wax resist technique. Wax is applied through brush or wooden blocks to

resist the design form on fabric. The dyeing is done using cold Naphtol dyes in order to protect

wax resist area.

Shibori- of Japanese textiles. In this technique fabric is tightly folded and stitched, twisted and

compressed to achieve fine patterns.

Jiaxie- Clamp technique (Jiaxie): This technique involves fabric folding and then using a carved

wooden design shape as the main resist. These wooden resists are always two identical pieces

because it is placed on both sides of the fabric.

20.Printing- the fabric created through colour application creating definite shapes on side more

prominent and fresher .

i. Hand block printed textiles

ii. Screen printed textiles (by hand and machine)

iii. Mill printed textiles (using high speed automatic printing machines)

iv. Digital and transfer printed textiles.

OR

Floral, Geometric, abstract, conversational and ethnic

WOVEN TEXTILE-778

HALF YEARLY

CLASS -XI

Paper:WOVEN TEXTILE

Year: 2013 – 14

Time: 2 Hrs

Marks: 50




Marks 15 15 15 5 50


Type of Questions EA SA VSA O Total

Number of Questions 4 (each 5) 4 (each 3) 6 (each 2) 6(each1) 11





Introduction to textiles

3 3 2 2 25

Weaving Technology

3 3 2 2 25

No. of Questions

6 6 4 4 50

3. Weightage to Content Marks

Half-yearly Examination

3. Unit – 1 25

4. Unit – 2 25

Scheme of Sections:


A OQ 6 ( no Choice) 6

B VSQ 6 ( internal Choice) 6

C SQ 4 (internal choice) 4

D EQ 4 (internal choice) 4




Easy 40% of Marks

Abbreviations Used:

K – Knowledge U – Understanding A – Application S – Skill



WOVEN TEXTILE

HALF YEARLY

CLASS -XI

I. Very short (1 marks) (1x6=6 marks)

Q.1. Fibers obtained from Asbestos are called _____________________ fiber.

Q.2. _______________ of lengthwise yarns with width wise yarns is called weaving.

Q.3. Fabrics which are biodegradable over time are called _________________fibers.

Q. 4. _______________ is a metallic comb which determines fabric density.

Q.5. The _______________ plan defines the selection of heald shafts to be raised on each

successive pick/weft insertion.

Q.6. The weave design is depicted on a _______________paper.

II. Write short notes on any 6 of the following. (20-30 words) (6x2=12)

Q.1. Define the term ‘yarn’.

Q.2. Write a short note on Airjet Loom.

Q.3. Write a short note on Natural Fiber.

Q.4. What are metallic fibers

Q. 5. Describe the term Warping.

Q. 6. What is a lifting/peg plan?.

Q.7. What is a Satin Draft.

Q. 8. Describe what is known as Creeling?

III. Write short notes on any 4 of the following. (50-60 words) (4x3=12)

Q. 1. What is a fabric.

Q.2. Define Heald Shaft & its usage.

Q.3. What are Shuttle looms.

Q.4. Define Sizing.

Q. 5. What is a rapier Loom?.

Q.6. Write a short note on Jacquard Mechanism.

IV. Write notes on any 4 of the following. (100-110 words each) (4x5 =20)

Q.1. Name the different types of fibre & define them.

Q.2. What is a looms? Name different types of looms?

Q.3 What are the important weaving terminologies?

Q. 4. Explain the preparatory process of weaving

Q.5. Explain the weaving mechanism with the help of a diagram.

Q.6. Write a note on the History of weaving & the development of the Textile Industry.

Q.7. Write a note on the shedding mechanism.

Answer Key

Half-Yearly

Section I

Q.1. Mineral Fiber.

Q.2. Interlacing.

Q.3. Natural.

Q.4. Reed

Q.5. Lifting/ Peg Plan.

Q.6. Design/Point Paper

Section II

Q.1. Certain amount of fibres twisted or spun together to form a continuous strand is called a Yarn. A

yarn is made into a Fabric. Many different kinds of fibres are used for making a Yarn.

Q.2. The looms that use jet of air to propel the weft yarn across the shed of the loom is called Airjet

Looms. These looms are faster and also less noisy than the shuttle looms, rapier and projectile loom.

The filling yarn is also under less tension. Airjet looms are used for producing wide variety of fabrics.

Q.3. Natural Fibre - These fibres include those produced by plants, animals and geological processes.

They are biodegradable over time. They can be classified according to their origin.

Q.4. Metallic Fibers - They are composed of metal, plastic coated metal, metal-coated plastic or a

core completely covered by metal. They are used as decorative yarn for various apparel and home

furnishings.

Q.5. The process of converting yarn from single end package to an even sheet of yarn representing

hundreds of ends (multiple end package) is called Warping. The ends are then wound onto the warp

beam.

Q6. The Lifting Plan or the Peg Plan defines the selection of heald shafts to be raised or

lowered on each successive insertion of pick. The peg plan is drawn alongside the design. The numbered

vertical spaces of the peg plan correspond with the numbered heald shafts in the draft and the number

of horizontal spaces is equal to the picks in the design. The vertical space 1 in the peg plan indicates

how the first heald will be operated; the numbered 2, the second heald and so on. The plan further

shows which heald shafts will be raised and lowered on successive picks. Thus the diagram indicated

that on first pick the healds 1 is raised and 2 are lowered; on second pick heald 2 is raised and heald 1 is

lowered; on third pick again healds 1 is raised and 2 are lowered and on fourth pick heald 2 is raised and

1 is lowered..

Q.7 Sateen draft is achieved by staggering the placement of the ends. The purpose of this draft is the

same as skip draft i.e. to reduce friction between adjacent warps and overcrowding.

Q.8 Yarn packages are placed on a large metallic frame known as creel. These creels are equipped

with yarn tensioning devices so that constant yarn tension is maintained in all the yarns as they are

being wound onto the warp beam. The modern day creels are equipped with automatic control,

centralized tension variation and yarn breakage monitoring system in order to increase the warping

performance.

Section III (Pg-6)

Q.1. A Fabric may be defined as a planar assembly of fibre, yarns or combination of these.

There are many methods of fabric manufacturing, each capable of producing a great variety of

structures depending upon raw materials used. The particular fabric selected for a given application

depends on the performance requirements imposed by the end use and/or the desired aesthetic

characteristics of the end user with consideration for cost and price. Fabrics, as stated above, are used

for many applications such as apparel, home furnishings and industrial. The most commonly used

methods for fabric - forming are interlacing, interloping, bonding and tufting.

Q.2 Heald Shaft is related to the Shedding mechanism. It can be made of wood or metal.

It carries number of heald wires, at the center of which is the heald eye.

The ends of warp sheet pass through these heald wires.

The number of Healdshafts used in weaving depends on the Repeat of the weave.

The main functions of heald shafts are that it helps in shed formation.

It helps in identifying the broken warp thread.

It determines the order of lifting and lowering the warp ends for a pick

Q3. For many years weaving machines depended on shuttle as the primary device for weft

insertion. Shuttle is a device that contains a bobbin on which filling yarn is wound. The shuttles are

available in different shapes depending on the type of loom they are to be used. Shuttle looms are

among the oldest kind of looms. They are versatile and effective but there are certain disadvantages. As

the shuttle passes over warp ends during every picking cycle, it causes abrasion, which lead to thread

breakage. So it cannot be used for weaving finer count yarn fabric varieties. Compared to more modern

looms they are also slow and noisier. Shuttle looms can be power looms which are used in mill sector or

could be different varieties of handloom which are usually used by artisans (craftsmen).

Q.4. Sizing is the process of stiffening the warp yarns with the help of a sizing paste. The sizing paste

is applied on the warp yarn with the warp sizing machine. After the yarns are woven, the fabric is

washed to remove the size paste (Desizing) Sizing of the warp yarn is essential to reduce breakage of the

yarns. On the weaving machine, the warp yarns are subjected to several types of actions, like abrasion at

various loom parts, inter yarn friction, etc. With sizing, the strength - abrasion resistance - of the yarn

improves and hairiness of the yarn also decreases.

Q.5. Rapier looms are used to insert the weft. They are of two types - Single Rapier and Double

Rapier. Single rapier is one long rapier device that carries the weft from one side of the loom to other

and returns back empty. Whereas in double rapier, one rapier feeds the weft halfway through the shed

to another rapier, which then carries it across rest of the way. The double rapiers could be rigid, flexible

or telescopic.

Q.6. Jacquard looms allow weaving of complex patterns. They are used for weaving designs which

are beyond the scope of Dobby Shedding like brocades, damask, etc. i.e. the designs which consists of

more than 24 different order of interlacing. In these looms there are no heald shafts. Each heald wire is

controlled separately by the Jacquard mechanism and hence thousands of ends can work in different

fashion and repeat upon similar number of picks

Section: IV

Q.1. The textile fibres are of two types -

Natural Fibre - These fibres include those produced by plants, animals and geological processes. They are biodegradable over time. They can be classified according to their origin

a) Animal Fibre - They are produced by animals or insects and are protein in composition, E.g.: Silk fibre

and Wool fibre

b) Mineral Fibre - These are mined from certain types of rocks, E.g.:Asbestos fibre

c) Vegetable Fibre - They are found in the cell wall of plants and are cellulosic in composition. E.g.,

cotton fibre, jute fibre.

Manmade Fibre - These are derived from various sources. For instance,

a) Manmade Cellulosic Fibre - The natural material of cellulose can be taken from cotton linters and

wood pulp, processed chemically and changed in form and other characteristic to form manmade

cellulosic fibre. e.g.: Rayon, Modal

b) Non-cellulosic Polymer Fibres - They are synthesized or created from various elements into large

molecules which are called linear polymers because they are connected in link-like fashion. E.g.: Acrylic

fibre, Nylon fibre, Polyester fibre

c) Metallic Fibers - They are composed of metal, plastic coated metal, metal-coated plastic or a core

completely covered by metal. They are used as decorative yarn for various apparel and home

furnishings.

d) Minerals Fibers - Various minerals have been manufactured into glass, ceramic and graphite fibers

having prescribed properties for specific use. E.g.: Glass fibers

Q.2. Weaving is done on a machine called loom. The weaving machine provides the means to

interlace warp and filling yarns to form woven fabric. It provides mechanisms by which different

interlacements are made possible for warp yarns and weft yarns. Over a period of time, the loom

has undergone significant modification, but the basic principles and operation remain the same.

CLASSIFICATION OF LOOMS:

The loom is classified on the basis of method of insertion of weft. There are many ways for insertion of filling.

The basic classification of the looms is as follows:

--Shuttle loom---

--Hand loom

--Powerloom

--Shuttle less loom---

--Modern

---airjet

---rapier

---Projectile

--Waterjet

--Circular Looms

Q.3.

Fabric Density -The fabric density is defined as the number of ends and picks in a unit of a

fabric.It is measured as ends per inch and picks per inch

Ends per inch (EPI) This is defined as the number of ends in one inch of the fabric. To get the

required warp density, reeds of different counts are used.

Reed Count The Reed Count is defined as number of dents in two inches. Through each dent,

two, three or more ends can be passed. So for example, if you are using a Reed Count of 32s, it

means there are 16 dents in one inch, so with 2 ends per dent, the EPI would be 32 (16x2=32).

Reeds of different counts are available which help in making fine or thick cloth or changing the

number of ends per dent can help to achieve open or close fabric.

Picks per inch This is defined as the number of picks in one inch of the fabric. The density of

picks can be varied by changing the take-up speed. If the take-up speed is high then Picks per

inch is less. This is so because as the fabric is wound at the greater speed the picks are being laid

further apart, where as if the take up is slow then the picks per inch is higher as the fabric is now

being wound at a slower speed.

Selvedge The selvedge of the fabric is the self-finished edges of the fabric.

Total warp ends This is defined as the total number of ends across the width of the fabric. This is

a product of the Ends per inch of the fabric and Width of the fabric to be woven. For example, if

the EPI of the fabric is 30 and 60 inch wide fabric is to be woven, then the Total Warp Ends will

be equal to 1800 (30x60)

Q.4. Explanation of all the following processes:

Winding

Creeling

Warping

Sizing

Drawing

Denting

Q.5. The Fabric weaving maybe accomplished on sophisticated, high speed, precision loom. But for

understanding the complicated operations of weaving, the machine can be broken down into

simple functions, related to the process of cloth formation with particular reference to those functions

which have the greatest influence upon the structure and the appearance of fabrics.

PASSAGE OF YARN ON THE LOOM

1 - Weavers beam

2,3 - Two bars of back rest

4 - Back lease rod

5 - Front lease rod

6 - Back heald

7 - Front hoeld

8 - Reed

9 - Reel of the cloth

10 - Temple

11 - Breast beam

12 - Emery roller

13 - Tension Rod

14 - Cloth Roller

(Students must draw Fig 5.1: Line Diagram of Passage of Yarn (Ends) on the Loom)

The passage of warp through the loom.

The warp leaves the Weaver's Beam and passes over the Back Rest.

From here half the warp ends pass over the Back Lease Rod 1 and under the Back Lease Rod 2 and the remaining half pass under lease rod 1 and over the lease rod 2.

This divides the warp sheet into two parts which avoids entanglement and facilitates straightening of warp ends. The lease rods also help in forming an even shed.

After this the warp yarns are drawn through the Heald Shafts as per the design requirement. The Heald Shafts contain Heald Wires with Heald Eyes at the center through which the warp ends are passed.

The warp ends next pass through the Reed which is like a flat wire comb. The point 9 is the "Cloth Fell"; it is the point where the warp and weft become a cloth, as the reed beats up the last inserted weft up to this point.

The cloth is then held at each side by Temple. This holds the cloth fell out to the width of the warp sheet.

The cloth is then passed over the Breast Beam and goes partly around the Emery Roller , then over the Tension Rod to be wound onto the Cloth Roller.

.Q.6. History-It is not known clearly how weaving began, but it appears that the idea of weaving

certainly preceded looms by many thousands of years. There is mention of invention of

weaving in the legends of most of the culture, except for the Chinese.

It can be presumed that the man first got the idea to weave by maybe observing certain

birds that weave nests or watching the wind interlace the leaves of date palm or see the

spider making its net on the bush or by studying the silkworm to see if thread can be

made usable. There are innumerable legends and stories in every culture that are linked

with notion of weaving but in every story it appears that nature itself planted the first

seeds of weaving.

Early looms- Plaiting and Baskets making was a preliminary step to weaving cloth. Various

different

forms of basketry techniques were employed wherein different types of fibers, roots were

coiled, intertwined to make baskets. These were initially used as vessels for carrying fish

from fish traps and roots and berries from forests but they were eventually applied to

hampers, cradles, etc. Basketry was modified to mat-making used for carpets, coverings,

wrappings as well as temporary shelters for house.

The weaving of textiles on the loom is believed to have begun in Neolithic Age (Neolithic

Age or the New Stone Age was a period in the development of human technology). The

"Loom" of that age is best defined as any frame or contrivance for holding warp threads

parallel to permit the interlacing of the weft at right angles to form a web. Hence the

looms have evolved from the simplest structure wherein the warp were freely suspended

from cord stretched between two upright wooden poles to the sophisticated looms of the

modern age.

Development of Textile Indusrty-In early age, weaving on looms was a house hold activity

practiced mainly by women.

With the invention of horizontal loom men took over the activity of weaving and this

signals the birth of European weaving as a commercial enterprise.

The horizontal looms made it possible to weave long lengths of fabric and at speed more

than the primitive looms. This brought about the commercialization of cloth production

in urban areas. The industry started becoming specialized which involved processes that

occurred after the weaving of the cloth. These finishing processes distinguished the

products of horizontal looms from the other primitive looms. However, in rural areas

peasants still continued to spin, dye and weave their own cloth, till the cloth became

cheap enough for the peasants to be able to buy for themselves.

Mechanisation of looms-The thrust towards mechanization of looms began before Industrial

Revolution.

Experiments towards making mechanical looms had started but the real push towards

power-loom weaving came with the development of spinning machinery in order to keep

pace with the spinners. After many unsuccessful attempts a solution was arrived at by

invention of an Anglican clergyman named Edmund Cartwright. Cartwright powered

his first loom by an ox and capstan but this was soon adapted for a steam version.

A Manchester factory manufactured this loom. Workers protested over loss of jobs which

lead to rioting in early nineteenth century England, but Industrialization had started.

One operator with one help could operate four looms and produce twenty times the

output of a hand weaver. The golden age of hand-weaving came to an end in England and

the artisans went in anonymity. Home weaving of course continued as before on traditional looms.

Q.7. In shedding the warp threads are manipulated to produce a given interlacing, and is achieved by

threading each end through an eye of a heald wire, and raising or lowering this wire dependent on

whether it is required to lift the end above the weft, or to keep it below the weft during picking.

Tappet Shedding Mechanism -In this the heald wires are not operated singly but are attached to heald frame and hence rise or fall together with the movement of the shaft. The tappet system is used to control the shedding where, due to simplicity of interlacing; only few heald shafts are required. But this imposes limitation on length of design. For these reasons tappet principle of shedding is employed mainly for high speed production of standard cloths where changes of structure are infrequent, and simplicity offers some advantage.

Dobby Shedding Mechanism - Here as well, the heald wire are attached to heald shaft like for tappet shedding, but this system offers considerably greater scope for producing figured effects and are often capable of controlling up to 24 healds.

ANNUAL PAPER

CLASS -XI

Paper: WOVEN TEXTILE

Year: 2013 – 14

Time: 2 Hrs

Marks: 50




Marks 15 15 15 5 50



Number of Questions 5 (each 5) 3(each 3) 5(each 2) 6(each1) 11





Introduction to textiles

1 2 1* 1 10

Weaving Technology

3 2 1 1 15

Fabric Structure

2 1* 1 2 15

An Overview of Weaving Industry

1* 1 1 1 10

No. of Questions

6 5 3 5 50

6. Weightage to Content Marks

Annual Examination

1. Unit – 1 10

2. Unit – 2 15

3. Unit – 3 15

4. Unit – 4 10

Scheme of Sections:


A OQ 6 ( no Choice) 6

B VSQ 5 ( internal Choice) 5

C SQ 3 (internal choice) 3

D EQ 5 (internal choice) 5




Easy 40% of Marks

Abbreviations Used:




WOVEN TEXTILE Time- 2 hrs.

ANNUAL EXAM Marks -50 m

CLASS-XI

(1x6=6 marks)

I. Fill in the blanks (1x6= 6 marks)

1.) Weaving is believed to have begun in the _______________ age.

2.) Sizing of the warp yarn is essential to ____________ breakage of the yarns.

3.) ________________ mechanism allows weaving of complex patterns.

4.) Lengthwise yarns in a fabric are called __________ yarns.

5.) ______________ is the self finished edges of the fabric.

6.) ______________weave is the basic weave structure.

II. Write short notes on any 5 of the following (20-30 words) (5x2=10)

Q. 1) Animal fibre.

Q.2) Knitting

Q.3) Define “Fabric density”.

Q.4) What are balanced twill. Explain with diagram.

Q.5) What is known as the Drafting Order.

Q.6) Describe the warp beam?

Q.7) What is Batik Fabric.

Q.8) What is Brocade fabric.

III. Write notes on any 3 of the following (50-60 words) (3x3=9)

Q.1) Define shuttle less looms. Give example.

Q.2) What is a weaving draft.

Q.3) What are the three basic weave structure. Draw a graph for each type.

Q.4) What are natural fibers. Give an example.

Q.5) What is Surat “Tanchoi”?

IV Write long answers on any 5 of the following (100-110 words) (5x5=25)

Q.1) Write a brief history of weaving.

Q.2) Explain the process of warp preparation.

Q.3) Explain the different types of drafting?

Q.4) What is a Plain Weave? What are its derivatives/variations? Explain with diagrams.

Q.5) What is called a Fabric structure? Give example of different methods of fabric structure.

Q.6) What are the segments of the Indian Textile Industry?

Q.7) Write an essay on the Powerloom & Handloom Textile Industry.

Answer Key

I.

1. Neolithic Age. 2. Prevent. 3. Jacquard 4. Warp. 5. Selvage 6. Plain/twill/satin

II.

1. Animal Fiber: these are natural fibers and are produced by animals or insects and are protein

in composition, E.g.: Silk fibre and Wool fibre.

2. Knitting can be defined as Interloping of one yarn system into vertical columns and

horizontal rows of loops called wales and courses respectively with fabric coming out of the

machine in the wales direction. Example: Sweaters, hosiery.

3. The fabric density is defined as the number of ends and picks in a unit of a fabric. It is

measured as ends per inch and picks per inch.

4. Twill weaves can easily be identified by diagonal lines in either warp or weft direction In a

Balanced twill the number,size and distribution of the warp or the weft floats are similar.

5. The order in which the warp threads are threaded in the heald shaft is

known as "Drafting Order"

6. Warp beam is also known as the Weaver's Beam. The warp sheet is wound on to this

beam and it is fixed at the back of the loom.

7. A Batik fabric is a fabric made of a design technique of resist dyeing or printing in which

desired areas are covered, painted or printed with the mix of bee wax and paraffin wax which

acts like resist and then dyed. The wax help in resisting the dyes penetration, however in the

process wax cracks through which some dyes solution gets penetrated and the interesting

cracks effects are produced which is quite unique.

8. A brocade is a heavy jacquard fabric with an all-over raised pattern or floral design.

Appropriate for saris,upholstery, draperies, handbags and eveningwear. Banarasi brocaded

saris in India are very famous.

III.

1. Shuttle less looms were developed to overcome the problems of Shuttle looms. These

looms were faster and also reduced the breakage of yarn during weaving. Finer fabric

qualities like shirting and dress material could be manufactured with these looms. The modern looms use

three prominent devices for pick insertion. E.g. Rapier/Airjet/Waterjet/Projectile

2. A Weaving Draft indicates the number of Heald Shafts to be used to produce a given design and

the order in which the warp ends are to be threaded through the heald eyes of the healds.

There are various methods for indicating the draft but the most common and convenient method is the use

of design paper. In this method the draft is drawn exactly over the design and the horizontal spaces

represent the healds and the vertical space indicates each corresponding warp end (Fig.: 6.9). The

principle of drafting a pattern is that all the ends working in different orders require separate heald

shafts. This means that as a heald shaft is an entity, therefore all the ends passing through a given heald

shaft will work alike. The converse of this rule may not always be true as occasionally for convenience

and better performance the ends that are working alike are passed through different healds. It may be

noted that number of picks in a repeat is of no consequence for a drafting pattern, this will be considered

in Lifting Plan.

3. The basic weave structures are :

a) Plain Weave is the most economical and easy to produce weave. In a plain weave, each

warp yarn passes alternatively over one weft and then under the second weft yarn.They

require only two heald shafts or harnesses because the weave repeats every two ends and

two picks. Basket & Rib weave are its two variation. Draw Graph b) Twill weaves can easily be identified by its general characteristic with its series

of more or less pronounced diagonal lines in either warp or weft direction, or in equal or

quantities on both sides of the cloth. Draw Graph

c) Satin weave A sateen weave is predominantly a weft faced weave, whereas satin is a

warp dominant fabric. It is constructed by choosing a move number. Selection of move

number (intervals of selection) depends upon various factors to get a regular sateen and

satin. Draw graph

4. Natural Fibre - These fibres include those produced by plants, animals and geological processes. They

are biodegradable over time. They can be classified according to their origin

Animal Fibre - They are produced by animals or insects and are protein in composition, E.g.:

Silk fibre and Wool fibre

Mineral Fibre - These are mined from certain types of rocks, E.g.:Asbestos fibre

Vegetable Fibre - They are found in the cell wall of plants and are cellulosic in composition.

E.g., cotton fibre, jute fibre.

5. The Surat "Tanchoi" is based on a technique of satin weaving with the extra weft floats that

are absorbed in the fabric itself has been reproduced in Varanasi. Besides its own

traditional weaves, there is hardly any style of weaving that Varanasi cannot reproduce.

The Baluchar technique of plain woven fabric brocaded with untwisted silk thread,

which began in Murshidabad district of West Bengal, has taken root in Varanasi. Their craftsmen have

also borrowed the jamdani technique.

IV.

1) It is not known clearly how weaving began, but it appears that the idea of weaving

certainly preceded looms by many thousands of years.

There is mention of invention of weaving in the legends of most of the culture, except for the

Chinese. It can be presumed that the man first got the idea to weave by maybe observing certain

birds that weave nests or watching the wind interlace the leaves of date palm or see the spider

making its net on the bush or by studying the silkworm to see if thread can be

made usable. There are innumerable legends and stories in every culture that are linked

with notion of weaving but in every story it appears that nature itself planted the first

seeds of weaving.

Plaiting and Baskets making was a preliminary step to weaving cloth. Various different

forms of basketry techniques were employed wherein different types of fibers, roots were

coiled, intertwined to make baskets. These were initially used as vessels for carrying fish

from fish traps and roots and berries from forests but they were eventually applied to

hampers, cradles, etc. Basketry was modified to mat-making used for carpets, coverings,

wrappings as well as temporary shelters for house.

The weaving of textiles on the loom is believed to have begun in Neolithic Age (Neolithic

Age or the New Stone Age was a period in the development of human technology). The

"Loom" of that age is best defined as any frame or contrivance for holding warp threads

parallel to permit the interlacing of the weft at right angles to form a web. Hence the

looms have evolved from the simplest structure wherein the warp were freely suspended

from cord stretched between two upright wooden poles to the sophisticated looms of the

modern age.

2) Warp preparation involves the following processes:

Winding-Yarns are repackaged as large cones, so that they can be further used for weaving

process. This re-packaging process is termed as winding.During this process, some spun yarns may be

imparted more twist or combined with other single yarns into double and ply yarns. The defects in the

yarn, like thick places and thin place are also removed. This leads to increase in overall strength of the

yarn and causes less yarn breakage during weaving

Creeling Yarn being unwound from CreelYarn packages are placed on a large metallic frame known

as creel. These creels are equipped with yarn tensioning devices so that constant yarn tension is

maintained in all the yarns as they are being wound onto the warp beam. The modern day creels

are equipped with automatic control, centralized tension variation and yarn breakage monitoring

system in order to increase the warping performance.

Warping. This can be either Direct Warping & Sectional Warping

The process of converting yarn from single end package to an even sheet of yarn representing hundreds of

ends (multiple end package) is called Warping. The ends are then wound onto the warp beam. Warping

can be done in two ways:

a) Direct warping - The ends of the yarn are wrapped in single operation from the yarn packages onto

the warp beam. This method is predominantly used when single colour or less complicated patterns are to

be woven .

b) Indirect warping - The yarns from the yarn package are wound in bands onto an intermediate drum

called Pattern Drum and are then transferred onto a warp beam in a separate operation. This method of

warping is employed when fancy coloured patterns of warp are need or the capacity of

creel is limited.

Sizing-Sizing of the warp yarn is essential to reduce breakage of the yarn and thus the

production stops on the weaving machine.On the weaving machine, the warp yarns are subjected

to several types of actions,like abrasion at various loom parts, inter yarn friction, etc. With sizing,

the strength - abrasion resistance - of the yarn improves and hairiness of the yarn also

decreases.The sizing paste is applied on the warp yarn with the warp sizing machine. After

weaving process, the fabric is washed to remove the size paste (Desizing)

Drawing-in and Denting This is the process of drawing each end of the warp separately through

the eyes of the heald, as indicated in the draft and then through the dents of the

reed .The order in which the warp threads are threaded in the heald shaft is known as "Drafting

Order". The order in which the warp threads are threaded in the dents of the reed is known as

"Denting Order". The manual process of Drawing-in and Denting is time consuming and hence

when mass production of same fabric is to be done then simply each end of new beam is tied to

corresponding end of old beam. This is called Tying-In.

3) Various systems of drafting are used for weaving of fabrics. Some are common and hence

very important to understand, while some are formed as a natural outcome of following

the design or the lifting plan for which they are arranged, ex Herringbone or reversed draft .The

common drafting systems are as follows:

Straight Draft-This is the most common and simplest system of drafting. In this drafting,

successive ends in the repeat of a design are drawn upon successive healds until

the end of the repeat is reached. Therefore, in this system the number of heald shafts required is

equal to number of ends in the repeat. For the designs with straight draft, the lifting plan is always

the same as design.

Skip Drafting- This is used for weaves which are very dense. Normally, these weaves require

very less heald shafts but to reduce friction and rubbing between the ends and to avoid crowding

of mails on the shaft, Skip draft is used wherein more healds are used then minimum required.

Example, Plain weave requires only 2 shafts, but can be drawn on 4 or 6 shafts.

Point Draft-These are employed for weaves which are symmetrical about the center, example

waved or diamond weave. Its advantage is that large effects can be produced on half the number

of heald shafts than that required for straight draft.

Satin Draft-The purpose of this draft is the same as skip draft i.e. to reduce friction between

adjacent warps and overcrowding. But in sateen draft this is achieved by staggering the placement

of ends.

4. Plain Weave is the most economical and easy to produce weave. In a plain weave, each warp yarn

passes alternatively over one weft and then under the second weft yarn.They require only two

heald shafts or harnesses because the weave repeats every two ends and two picks. When one

heald shaft is raised the other is lowered, and then the sequence is reversed for the next pick. The

simplest and most elementary combination of two series of threads employed in in the

construction of textile fabrics is the plain weave or also termed as calico weave.

Plain weave is the most widely used of all fabric structures and has the simplest possible pattern

of interlacing, the pattern actually repeating itself on every ends and picks

It also has the maximum possible frequency of interlacing, thereby producing a fabric of firm

structure. The yarns in this weave are not easily displaced and are more resistant to slipping.The

interlacement of warp and weft can also be closely examined in the wherein both naturalistic and

semi naturalistic form of drawing illustrate the interlacements of warp and weft shown with the

selvedge interlacements in a fabric construction.

DERIVATIVES OF PLAIN WEAVE- Plain weave has the simplest form of interlacing and

many variations of weaves could be produced from the simple plain weave by extending it either

horizontally, vertically or both, they are termed as derivatives of plain weave. The following are

the derivatives of the plain weave which could be further modified in terms of the ratios of the

warp and weft inserted during the course of weaving. Depending upon it's ratio between warp and

weft selected they may be called regular warp or weft rib or irregular warp or weft rib, similarly

regular matt or irregular matt weave depending upon the ratios of warp and weft is selected for

the construction of the weave.

Warp Rib The Warp rib weaves are constructed in which each end passes alternately over

and under two or more than two picks. Effect of the warp rib can be seen prominently from both

the sides of the fabric. 2 x 1 warp rib, the rib effect is produced in weft direction. When the two

picks are inserted between formations of a shed (with single warp up ) then 2 x 2 warp rib is

produced.

Weft Rib The Weft rib weaves are constructed in which each end passes alternately over

and under two or more than two ends. When the 2 ends are lifted alternately the result would be 2

x 2 weft rib. If the lifting is done by 3 ends and 4 ends the resultant weaves would be 3 x 3 and 4

x 4 weft rib respectively. The weft rib can be identified by the fact that the formation of the rib is

always in warp direct which can be seen very prominently.

Matt weave is also the most popular weave as one of the derivatives of plain weave in

the textile industry. They are made by extending a plain weave structure both warp way and weft

direction. If the two or more ends working as one single ends and two or more picks in a shed

then a Matt weave is produced. The simplest and most commonly used weave is 2 x 2 Matt also

known as Basket or Hopsack weave. Grouping of the yarns in an irregular manner in warp

direction or weft direction will produce the effects that are known as irregular Matt weave.

Similarly 3 x 3, 4x 4 or more Matt weaves can be constructed.

5. Fabric structure- Fabric refers to any material made through weaving, knitting, crocheting,

braiding or bonding which may be used in production of any end use product such as garments.

When a material is constructed using any textile fibre into 2 dimensional or 3dimensional

structures which may be drape-able, spreadable and pliable, it is called a Fabric .

It can be wearable, useable as any functional product in an interior or exterior, as home

furnishing, or may be used as an aesthetic piece of art. A fabric is a flexible woven or non woven

material consisting of natural or artificial fibers known as thread or yarn.

A Yarn is produced by spinning raw fibers of cotton, silk, wool, flax, or other materials to

produce continuous long strands. A Textile fabric is formed by weaving, knitting, crocheting,

knotting, or pressing fibres together known as felted fabrics.

The term fabric and cloth is used in textile trades such as tailoring and dressmaking as synonyms

for textile. A Cloth may be used synonymously with fabric but often refers to a finished piece of

product used for a specific purpose e.g., any fashionable garment, bed spread, bed cover, table

cloth, curtains, durries and rugs etc.

6. The Textile industry in India comprises of mostly of small-scale, non-integrated spinning,

weaving, finishing, and apparel-making units.

Integrated Composite Mills: Composite Mills are relatively large-scale industry and are

sometime called vertically integrated Mills and will have most advance technology base for

manufacturing the goods. In this kind of mills the process normally starts from spinning, dyeing,

weaving, finishing and upto garmenting level. In India, however, these types of mills now

account for about only 3 percent of output in the textile sector. About 276 composite mills are

now operating in India, most owned by the public sector. The well-known examples are Arvind

Mills in Ahmedabad, Bombay Dyeing in Mumbai, Raymonds, etc.

Spinning unit:Spinning is the process of converting cotton or manmade fibre into yarn to be

used for weaving and knitting.

Weaving and Knitting unit: Weaving and knitting converts cotton, manmade, or blended yarns

into woven or knitted fabrics. India's weaving and knitting sector remains highly fragmented,

small-scale, and labour-intensive. This sector consists of about 3.9 million handlooms, 380,000

"powerloom" enterprises that operate about 1.7 million looms, and just 137,000 looms in the

various composite mills.

Finishing unit: Fabric finishing is actually a wet processing unit which includes dyeing, printing,

washing and other cloth preparations prior to the manufacture of fabric. Overall, about 2,500

processors are operating in India, including about 2,000 independent units and 220 units that are

integrated with spinning, weaving, or knitting units.

Apparel Manufacturing unit: Apparel clothing is produced by about 75,000 small-scale units

classified as domestic manufacturers, manufacturer exporters, and fabricators.

7. The power loom industry has grown up from handloom sector traditionally with inherent

technical knowhow passed on from forefather and is being continued in many ofthe clusters. The

19.44 lakh looms in the decentralized powerloom sector are spread over 4.3 lakh units with an

average holding of a little over 4 looms per unit. Thus, the sector largely comprises of very tiny

units with a majority of loom holdings in the range of 1 to 8. Decentralized powerloom sector is

consistently meeting out the need of the fabric required for garment sector for export as well as

the domestic market. The share of the

decentralized sector is 62% of the total fabric production in the country.

The Handloom industry mainly exports fabrics, bed linen, table linen, toilet and kitchen linen,

towels, curtains, cushions and pads, tapestries and upholstery's, carpets and floor coverings, etc.

The Handloom industry has adopted various measures and techniques to provide high quality and

eco-friendly products to the world market.

In the world of handlooms, there are Madras checks from Tamil Nadu, Ikats from Andhra and

Orissa, Tie and Dye from Gujarat and Rajasthan; Brocades from Banaras and Kanchipuram,

Jacquards from Uttar Pradesh, Daccai from West Bengal, and Phulkari from Punjab.The

Surat"Tanchoi", based on a technique of satin weaving with the extra weft floats that are absorbed

in the fabric itself has been reproduced in Varanasi. Besides its own traditional weaves, there is

hardly any style of weaving that Varanasi cannot reproduce.The Baluchar technique of plain

woven fabric brocaded with untwisted silk thread, which began in Murshidabad district of West

Bengal, has taken root in Varanasi. Their craftsmen have also borrowed the jamdani technique. In

the department of Woollen textiles, Woollen weaves are no less subtle. The Kashmiri weaver is

known the world over for his Pashmina and Shahtoosh shawls. The shawls are unbelievably light

and warm.The states of Kashmir and Karnataka are known for their mulberry silk. India is the

only country in the world producing all four commercially known silks - mulberry, tasser

(tussore), eri and muga, now gaining immense popularity in the U.S.A. and Europe.

Assam is the home of eri and muga silk. Muga is durable and its natural tones of golden yellow

and rare sheen become more lustrous with every wash. The ikat technique in India is commonly

known as patola in Gujarat, bandha in Orissa, pagdubandhu, buddavasi and chitki in Andhra

Pradesh.

QUESTION PAPER

CLASS XI (Half Yearly)

Subject: TEXTILE DESIGN -779

Paper: TEXTILE SCIENCE

Year: 2013 – 14

Time: 2 Hrs

Marks: 50




Marks 15 15 15 5 50



Number of Questions 3 (each 5) 5 (each 3) 5 (each 2) 10 (each 1 )




Units covered Marks

Unit 1 20

Unit 2 30

Unit OQ Very Short Q Short Q E Q Total

1 Mark 2 Mark 3 Mark 5 Marks

Unit 1 1,1,1,1,1 2,2 3,3 5 20

Unit 2 1,1,1,1,1 2,2,2 3,3,3 5,5 30

No. of q. 10 5 5 3 50

Scheme of Sections:


A EQ 3(no choice) 3

B SQ 5 (no choice) 5

C VSQ 5 (choice within questions) 5

D OQ 10 (no choice) 10

Difficulty Level:



Easy 40% of Marks

Abbreviations Used:




CLASS XI (Theory)


TEXTILE SCIENCE

Time : 2 hrs MM-50



2. Illustrate your answers wherever possible.

Section A

1. List the desirable properties of textile fibers. Describe any 3 in detail 5 Marks

2. What are fancy or novelty yarns? What are its characteristics? List various types of

Novelty yarns. 5 Marks

3. Name various factors that decide properties and characteristics of yarns. What are filament

yarns? Briefly explain types of filament yarns. 5 Marks

Section B

4. A textile consumer washed a wollen sweater in warm water and rubbed it hard. After

drying the sweater was smaller than its earlier dimensions. Could you explain why should

it happen? 3 Marks

5. What is Direct numbering system of yarns? Explain different methods used to give yarn

count in Direct numbering system. 3 Marks

6. Explain properties of Nylon fabrics. 3 Marks

7. Explain the steps of Carding and drawing in yarn processing. 3 Marks

8. What are plied yarns? Why are they made and what are their characteristics. 3 Marks

Section C

9. Use of linen fabric for apparel is limited. Why? 2 Marks

10. Define any 2 of the following - 2 Marks

(i) Yarn

(ii) Fabric

(iii) Fibre

11. Differentiate between S and Z twist. 2 Marks

12. What are core spun yarns? 2 Marks

13. Explain mono and multifilament yarns. 2 Marks

Section D

14.Short fibers that are measured in inches or centimeters are known as ________ 1 Mark

15. ___________ is an example of natural filament fibre. 1 Mark

16. Polyster garment are uncomfortable to wear as rate of moisture absorption is

___________ 1 Mark

17._____________fibre undergoes felting. 1 Mark

18. ______________ fibre when added to fabric improves its stretchability 1 Mark

19. For producing yarns if finer quality carded slivers are subjected to a process known as

________________ 1 Mark

20. A single strand of filament yarn that cannot be separated as its individual components is

known as _______________________ 1 Mark

21. ________________ numbering system measures fineness of yarn in length per unit

weight. 1 Mark

22. A three ply yarn with small, tight loops protruding from body of the yarn at spaced

interval is known as _______________. 1 Mark

23. A high twist may result in_________ feel of yarn. 1 Mark


KEY (TEXTILE SCIENCE)

1.

Desirable Fibre Properties;

Length

Fineness

Cross-sectional shape

Crimp

Luster

Drape

Texture

Hand

Comfort Properties

Absorbency

Care properties

Appearance retention

2. Novelty Yarns are single or plied yarn structures characterized by intentionally introduced

irregularities in size, twist and multi coloured effects. Charateristics: Enhances texture and design to fabric

Produces surface interest, variation in styling and unusual appearance in fabric

Hand varies soft to light and harsh to rough

Strength varies different part of the fabric

Non-uniform thickness throughout the fabric

Uneven performance in wear. Reduced abrasion resistance;

Pilling and snagging is critical problem. 3.

Characteristics of yarns depend upon following factors: Composition of fiber

Length of fiber (staple or filament)

Type of yarn (spun or filament)

Count (thickness or fineness)

Number of strands of yarn (single or plied)

Amount of yarn twist

Direction of yarn twist

Construction of yarn (simple, complex or textured)

Filament Yarns: They are loosely twisted yarns made from natural silk or manmade filament fibers. They are

fine and smooth, more pliable and more uniform in diameter than spun yarns. They are

lustrous and shiny in appearance. Filaments can be separated when untwisted and can be

counted. They produce high seam and yarn slippage. They are Stronger than spun yarns of

the same diameter and fiber content. Types of Filament Yarns:

Mono Filament

Multi Filament

4.

It may happen because of property of Felting: Felting means interlocking of fibers due to

scales when subjected to wet mechanical action. The result is a "progressive shrinkage" when

subjected to the tumbling action of a washing machine and later followed by shrinking in large

extent of wool garments. Dry cleaning is preferred for this fabric. 5.

Direct numbering system: Fineness of yarn is measured in weight per unit length. Denier

Tex

6.

Properties of Nylon Fabric High natural luster; but it may de-luster.

Good Drape; Good crease resistance and good recovery from wrinkling or creasing;

Feels cool, elastic, smooth and slick; Susceptible to pilling.

Subject to static build up; produces electric charges.

Exceptionally strong in both wet / dry condition;.

Weakened by strong acids; not affected by alkalis and by oxidizing / reducing bleach. May

be harmed by Chlorine / strong oxidizing bleaches.

Resistant to moths, fungi and insects. Excellent abrasion resistance.

Poor resistance to sunlight and prolonged exposure can weaken and cause deterioration

of colour and strength.

Poor absorbency: Hydrophobic in nature. Rate of absorption of moisture is slow and rate

of Drying is quick.

Good Elasticity and recovery; Good Dimensional Stability. On heating, it has the ability

to maintain shape and "No Shrinkage".

Easy to launder or dry clean; dries quickly, Machine dry at low temperature, safe ironing

temperature limit is 122 degree Celsius. 7.

Carding: In carding the tufts of fibres are individualized by means of carding action for efficient

removal of fine trash particles. The carding action is achieved by the fibre tufts caught

between a cylinder which is covered with fine needles and flat strips. The cylinder and flat

strips rotate at different speeds so that the fine needles individualize the fibers effectively.

The sheet of carded fibres is drawn through funnel in to a soft, bulky untwisted strand called a

sliver.

Drawing: Six or more slivers are fed to the drawing frame, where they are combined, drafted and

condensed in to single sliver. The drawing frame contains three or four drafting rollers

rotating at successively increasing speeds. The slivers are flattened, stretched out (drawn)

and re combined as they pass through the rollers. The final thin web is pulled through a

funnel and condensed into a soft and bulky sliver similar to the original sliver. However, the

resultant drawn sliver is six or more times longer than original sliver. 8.

Plied yarns are obtained by blending different fiber yarns such as by combining spun and

filament yarns and then introducing textured or novelty yarns. To improve the strength of

yarn, minimize irregularities and utilize multi strands of fine yarns to produce thick strand.

Modify texture and colour composition. Characteristics: Thicker, heavier and courser;

Differ in count; Less flexible than single yarn;

Affect drape of the fabric;

May differ in amount of twist and direction of twist 9.

High production cost

It wrinkle a lot

10. Fibre: It is defined as thin, fine and hair like substance, natural or manufactured, with a high

length to-width ratio and with appropriate properties for being processed into a fabric. Yarn: It is defined as a linear form of fibers, twisted as a continuous strand that can be made into

a fabric. Fabric: A fabric is produced from a yarn by performing mechanical operations as interlacing or

Interloping or intermeshing process. At this stage the fabric is referred as a grey cloth.

11. S - Twist, when held in vertical position and twist flows upwards in left-hand direction;

Z - Twist, when held in vertical position and twist flows upwards in right hand direction. 12.

Core Spun Yarn: A yarn, which has one type of fiber, wrapped around another yarn with strength and / or

stretch. The structure consists of a core, which could be spandex or any other type yarn, and

outer layer is usually of natural, man-made or blended fiber yarn. The inherent property of

yarn is influenced by inner core. The outer layer determines the hand and texture. 13.

Mono filament Yarns: It is a single strand of filament yarn and cannot be separated as it is an indivisible component. Multifilament Yarns: Yarns are composed of two or more filament strands twisted together to form one yarn. When

untwisted, each filament can be counted. 14.

Staple fibres

15. Silk fibre

16. Low

17. Wool

18. Spandex

19. Combing

20. Monofilament

21. Indirect numbering system

22.

Boucle yarn

23. Harsh

QUESTION PAPER

CLASS XI (Annual)

Subject: TEXTILE DESIGN

Paper: TEXTILE SCIENCE

Year: 2013 – 14

Time: 2 Hrs

Marks: 50




Marks 15 15 15 5 50



Number of Questions 5 (each 3) 5 (each 3) 5 (each 2) 1 (each )




UNITS OQ Very Short

Question

Short Question EQ Total

1 Mark 2 Mark 3 Mark 5 Mark

Unit 1 1,1 2 3,3,3* 10

Unit 2 1,1 2,2 3,3,3 5,5* 20

Unit 3 1,1,1 2 5 10

Unit 4 1,1,1 2 5 10

Total no. of Questions

10 5 5 3 50

*internal choice Scheme of Sections:


A EQ 3 (Internal Choice) 3

B SQ 5 (Internal Choice) 5

C VSQ 5 (choice within question) 5

D OQ 10 (no choice) 10

Difficulty Level:



Easy 40% of Marks

Abbreviations Used:




ANNUAL EXAMINATION TEXTILE SCIENCE

MM 50 Time 2 hrs

Instruction to Candidates

1. Attempt all sections of the paper

2. Supplement your answer with diagrams wherever possible.

Section A

1. What do you understand by operations involved in process of yarn manufacturing? List

down various steps involved in it. Explain any 3 steps in brief. 5 Marks

Or

Define Yarn Count. Elaborate on Direct and Indirect systems of yarn count.

2. Explain in brief basic motions of loom. 5 Marks

3. What are non-woven fabrics? Name different methods of production of non-woven

fabrics. Explain in brief any 3 methods of production of non-woven fabrics. 5 Marks

Section B

4. Define spinning of yarns. Explain in brief the 3 spinning processes used to produce man-

made fibres. 3 Marks

5. Describe properties of cotton fibre, fabrics.

OR

Describe properties of Silk fibre, fabrics. 3 Marks

6. Differentiate between woollen and worsted yarns. 3 Marks

7. What are novelty yarns? Describe components of novelty yarn with illustration. 3 Marks

8. Define Yarn Twist and TPI. What are directions of Yarn Twist? 3 Marks

Section C

9. Differentiate between natural and man-made fibres. 2 Marks

10. Give one example each of (any 2 of the following) – 2 Marks

i) Regenerated cellulosic fibre

ii) Man Made protein fibre

iii) Mineral fibre

11. Why should we dry silk fabrics in shade? 2 Marks

12. Rib and basket weaves one preferred for hand made towels and kitchen wipes. Why?

2 Marks

13. A vest does not have seams or joins at sides. What method of fabric construction do you

feel can be used to produce such a garment? 2 Marks

Section D

Fill in the blanks

14. Linear form of fibres, twisted as a continuous strand that can be made into a fabric is

called_______________. 1 Mark

15. ________ fibre looses its strength in wet condition. 1 Mark

16. ______yarns are composed of two or more filament strands twisted together to form

one yarn. 1 Mark

17. Rani wants to buy fabric for upholstery of her house. She should buy fabric that is made

up of ___________ denier of yarn.

18. A fabric that has a yarn counT of 1/26s X 2/60s is made of __________ ply 26 cotton

count yarn in warp and _________ply 60 cotton count yarn in weft. 1 Mark

19. A fabric woven on Dobby loom can have a design repeat up to __________ warp yarns.

1 Mark

20. A fabric has combination of high twist crepe yarns and crepe eave. Such a fabric would

be known as _____________. 1 Mark

21. _____________ is the basic stitch used to produce filling knit fabrics. 1 Mark

22. ____________are narrow fabrics in which many yarns are interlaced lengthwise &

diagonally. 1 Mark

23. A fabric that has very high extension in all directions is a __________fabric. 1 Mark

KEY

1.

Blow room operations

Carding

Drawing

Combing

Roving

Spinning

OR

Yarn count expresses the fineness or linear density of yarn. Yarn count is measured by a direct

and indirect system of measuring.

Direct Yarn Numbering System: Fineness of yarn is measured in weight per unit length.

Indirect Yarn Numbering System: Fineness of yarn is measured in length per unit weight.

2. Basic motions of loom

Shedding

Picking

Beat-up

3.

Nonwoven or fiber web structures include all textile-sheet structures made from fibrous web,

bonded by mechanical entanglement of the fibers or by the use of added resins, thermal fusion, or

formation of chemical complexes. Fibers are the fundamental units of structure, arranged into a

web and bonded so that the distances between fibers are several times greater than the fiber

diameter.

Methods of Manufacturing:

Bonded Web

Spun Bound

Spun Laced

Melt Blown

Needle Punched

Fusible

4.

Dry Spinning Process

Wet Spinning Process

Melt Spinning Process

5.

Properties and performance of Cotton fabrics

-Basically, Cotton fabrics have poor luster due to its natural colour.

-Drape, luster, texture, hand etc are affected by type of yarn, yarn count, fabric structure

and finishes.

-Feels cool, inelastic, soft and dry

-Poor resilience: Cotton fabrics wrinkle easily.

-Poor dimensional stability: Shrinks easily.

-No problem with pilling but Cotton fabrics has 'lint'

-Good strength and abrasion resistance- In wet condition, strength is increased by 20%

-Hydrophilic and good wicking absorbs moisture quickly and dries quickly.

-Good resistance to alkalis and organic solvents; Poor resistance to Acids. Easily attacked

by fungus and mildew; Poor resistance to sunlight.

-It can be handled by machine wash and dry clean (apparel); Steam of dry clean with

caution (furnishing)

OR

Properties and Performance of Silk fabrics

-Silk is an only natural fiber available as filaments. One cocoon will yield 1000 - 2500 yards

-Excellent drape gives graceful appearance, good resilience. Silk ranks next to wool. It

-wrinkles hangout fairly readily but not as quickly as wool. Luxurious hand, warm feels,

crispy, smooth and dry fabrics are the other properties.

-Strongest animal fiber, looses 15% - 20% when wet; Good resistance to acids. Poor

resistance to alkalis; better than wool; Good resistance to dry cleaning solvents;

-Poor resistance to sun light, prolonged exposure results in change of colour; Very elastic,

-Poor recovery if stretched beyond 2% of elongation

6. Woollen Yarns

They are made from short staple wool fiber, and are coarse / bulky / thicker/ fuzzy with dull

appearance and uneven look. It is an uneven yarn with more imperfections/irregularities and

more hairiness. It produces loose or napped fabric structure with insulating properties. It

provides warmth, resists wrinkling and do not maintain desired crease.

Worsted Yarns

They are smooth, finer and highly twisted yarns made from long staple wool fibers. It has

more uniformity/ less imperfections and irregularities, and has insulating properties &

providing less warmth. It maintains desired creases and offers better formability and shape

retention.

7.

Novelty Yarns are single or plied yarn structures characterized by intentionally introduced

irregularities in size, twist and multi coloured effects.

Components of Novelty Yarns:

Base yarn - to control length and stability

Effect yarn - to add texture and aesthetic value

Binder yarn - to hold effect yarn with the base yarn

8.

Twist is the spiral arrangement of fibers around the yarn axis. Twist binds the fibers together

and contributes strength to the yarn. The amount or degree of yarn twist is measured in

number of turns per inch (TPI).

Directions of Yarn Twist:

S twist

Z twist

9.

Natural Fibres: Natural fibers are materials that grow in nature such as cotton, flax, hemp, jute, silk and wool.

Plants contain fibrous bundles that give strength and pliability to the stems, leaves, and

roots. Natural proteins fibers are from the animal origin e.g. wool is obtained from the hair

and fur of animals, silk is the secretion of the silkworm. These fibers undergoes various

processes of harvesting, sorting, cleaning and milling, and get prepared for spinning to

produce yarn and further textile processing.

Man made Fibres: The fiber-forming ingredients of man-made fibers are extruded, twisted or spun to form a

long chain polymer. The liquid substance, forced through a spinnerets (or spinning jet),

hardens to produce a long continuous filament fiber.

10. i) Acaetate/ Rayon/ triacetate

ii)Azlon

iii) Ceramic/ glars/ graphite/ Asbestos

11. 16

12. 52

13. Circular (weft) knitting machine

14. Yarn

15. Rayon

16. multifilament

17. 600-840 denier

18. Single, two ply

19. 40

20. Moss crepe

21. Knit stitch

22. Braids

23. Weft knit fabric

elements of textile design class xi (half yearly …

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