electronic game project report

7/29/2019 Electronic Game Project Report

1/26

Andrew Wong

7TEC6

2012

Electronic Game Project Report

Briefing: The aim of this project was to construct an electronic buzzer game for

people to play. The intention to make the game was to make my first ever electronic

circuit from scratch.

Materials: Materials needed to make an electronic game include an orange LED, a

buzzer, a battery clip, 550mm worth of hookup wire, a battery, a piece of aluminium

wire, an aluminium strip (~20mm wide, ~105mm long), a switch, a screw eye, some

solder, a block of timber wood (190mm x 60mm x 18mm), eight screws, some Silvo

(polishing), a cylindrical piece of Perspex (Attached to it was a metal piece) and a

hollow metal bullet.

Tools and Machines: Tools and machines used to make the electronic game include a

soldering iron, a mallet, a clamp, a strip heater, a pencil, a ruler, a hacksaw, a file, a

disc sander, a drill press, a pair metal cutters, an engineers square (Machinist

square), a screwdriver, a hand drill, a ruler, a long-nose plier, a pair of wire-strippers,

a marker pen, a nail punch, a wire-cutter, a wet cloth, a rag, wet-and-dry abrasive

paper, a bucket filled with water.

Process:

1) Firstly, a sheet of acrylic was chosen out of a range of opaque and translucentacrylic sheets.


2/26

Andrew Wong

7TEC6

2012

2) Secondly, a bucket was filled with water and some wet-and-dry abrasive paperwas dipped in it.

3) Now that the wet-and-dry abrasive paper was wet, the acrylic sheets edgeswere sanded to make it smoother.


3/26

Andrew Wong

7TEC6

2012

4) Next, some Silvo was poured onto a rag and was applied to the acrylic sheetsedges to give it a glass-like look.

5) After that, a template was used to mark out where the acrylic should bedrilled in six places, one on each corner and two next to each other near the

centre, one of the two being bigger than the other.


4/26

Andrew Wong

7TEC6

2012

6) When the template was finished being copied, the acrylic was drilled with thedrill press.


5/26

Andrew Wong

7TEC6

2012

7) Next, one side of the acrylic sheet was placed on a strip heater for about threeminutes when it was hot.

8) Then, the acrylic sheets heated side was bent 90 upwards and was held inplace with a big wooden block for about 30 seconds. The engineers square(Engineers try-square) was used to make sure that the bend was 90.


6/26

Andrew Wong

7TEC6

2012

9) The newly bent acrylic sheet, still being hot, was placed under running water tocool it down.

10)Steps 7 to 9 were repeated for the other side.


7/26

Andrew Wong

7TEC6

2012

11)After that, a block of timber 190mm long, 60mm wide and 18mm high was cutand the bent acrylic was place over it as the image below shows.

12)Then, the timber was made flush with the acrylics edges and a hand-drillwas used to drill a hole through the timber through the acrylic.


8/26

Andrew Wong

7TEC6

2012

13)Four screws were screwed into these holes with a screwdriver to hold thetimber in place.

14)A hole was then drilled 15mm from the furthest hole on the side with thesmaller hole.


9/26

Andrew Wong

7TEC6

2012

15)A screw eye (eye screw) was then clamped with a clamp and half of its ringswere horizontally planed in half with a file.

16)A piece of black wire 550mm long was cut from a roll of black wires with awire cutter and each of the sides were stripped of the insulation with a pair of

wire strippers, leaving about 5-10mm of exposed wire.


10/26

Andrew Wong

7TEC6

2012

17)All the other wires (Battery clip, buzzer, etc.) were also removed of theirinsulation.

18)A red circular plastic Perspex was clamped and a hacksaw was used to removethe metal part of it.

19)The Perspex was then slightly sanded with the Disc Sander.


11/26

Andrew Wong

7TEC6

2012

20)A soldering iron was heated up for a while and heat was applied to the cutpart of the screw eye to warm it up. As the solder only sticks to anything hot.

In case the soldering iron was dirty, hence not being fully heated, the

soldering iron can be cleaned with a wet cloth.

21)The black wires exposed cable was placed on the heated part of the screweye and was soldered on. It was then left to cool down for about 10 seconds.

22)Next, the black wire was fed through the plastic handle and the screw eye wasscrewed into the plastic handle.


12/26

Andrew Wong

7TEC6

2012

23)The black wire was also fed through the smaller in the acrylic and a knot wasmade so that the wire wouldnt come out of the acrylic.

24)A small round hollow metal bullet was placed in a clamp facing upwards andwas sawed half-way vertically downwards with a hacksaw.

25)This bullet was then put aside for later use.


13/26

Andrew Wong

7TEC6

2012

26)A marker pen was used to trace a template for an aluminium strip 20mm wideand 105mm long, an outline of the aluminium strip and four dots.

27)The outline was then cut using a pair of metal cutters.


14/26

Andrew Wong

7TEC6

2012

28)The edges were sanded with the Disc Sander so that the edges wouldnt betoo sharp.

29)The two inmost dots were drawn on with a vertical line from a pencil with aruler, marking where the aluminium strip will be bent.


15/26

Andrew Wong

7TEC6

2012

30)A nail punch and a mallet were used to punch a hole on the two dots closer tothe end of the strip.

31)The aluminium strip was then brought to the drill press where the two dotsthat were punched were drilled.


16/26

Andrew Wong

7TEC6

2012

32)Then the aluminium strip was place on a flat clamp and was bent to make ametal holder for the battery to sit in.


17/26

Andrew Wong

7TEC6

2012

33)After that, a ruler was used to measure 50mm inwards from the edge oftimber on the side of the bigger hole on the acrylic and a straight line was

drawn.

34)The battery holder was positioned over the line and a hand drill was used tomake two holes into the timber, but not completely through.


18/26

Andrew Wong

7TEC6

2012

35)Two screws were then screwed into the timber, holding the battery holder inplace. If the battery holder was longer than the width of the timber, the extra

leftover materials can just be filed off with a file.

36)Next, some Silvo was again poured into a rag and was applied to a piece ofaluminium to make it shine more.

37)The piece of aluminium was then bent into preference. No machine is neededfor this as aluminium is quite easy to bend.


19/26

Andrew Wong

7TEC6

2012

38)The aluminium rod was then fitted through the two holes in acrylic and intothe two holes on the timber to make sure that it fit. If the aluminium rod

didnt go in properly or didnt stay down, it was bent again to shape so it could

fit.

39)For later additions and changes to the timber and the acrylic, the four screwswere taken out and were stored. The aluminium was also put aside.

40)Next, a portion of the battery clips red cable/wire was cut using the wire-cutter and the unexposed wires side of the newly cut wire was removed of its

insulation so the ends were exposed.

41)The battery clips remaining red wire was wrapped around a hole in themiddle prong on the switch.


20/26

Andrew Wong

7TEC6

2012

42)Now that the battery clips red wire was connected to the switch, the switchwas placed in a clamp, ready to be soldered.

43)The soldering iron was then positioned over the middle prong and solderedthe wire and middle prong of the switch together. It was then left to cool

down.

44)With this done, it was time for the LED light and the switch to be connectedtogether.


21/26

Andrew Wong

7TEC6

2012

45)One side of cut piece ofthe battery clips red wire ends was wrapped aroundone of the outside prongs of the switch and was soldered together with the

help of the clamp.

46)After it cooled down, a pair of long-nose pliers was used to bend half of bothof the LEDs two prongs 180 upwards.

47)The other end of the red wire was then wrapped around the middle of thehalved part which did not have a flat sided side.

48)The LED was clamped and was soldered on with the wire.49)When this had cooled down, the buzzers red wire end was also wrapped

around the otherLED prong and was soldered.


22/26

Andrew Wong

7TEC6

2012

50)After they solder had cooled, a wire-cutter was used to cut of the extra bits ofmetal on the LED.

51)The black wire of the buzzer was then soldered on to the black wire with aknot on it.

52)A ruler was used to measure 50mm from the edge of the timber and astraight line was drawn, indicating where the buzzer would be placed.

53)The buzzer was then positioned in the centre of the line, cables facinginwards and a drill was used to make a hole in the timber for 2 screws to go in.

Then two screws were used to be screwed in with a screwdriver.


23/26

Andrew Wong

7TEC6

2012

54)The LED was pushed upwards into the smaller hole at the top of the acrylic.

55)The 4 rings on the switch were removed and put aside, to be put back on at alater time.


24/26

Andrew Wong

7TEC6

2012

56)Now, the rings were removed, the switch was pushed up into the bigger holeand 3 of the rings were put back on, the toothy jagged one, a hexnut and

another hexnut. The other ring can be removed/thrown out.

57)The battery holder was unscrewed and the battery was placed inside, withthe battery facing inwards.

58)The battery was then clipped on to the battery clip and the battery holderwas screwed back down.


25/26

Andrew Wong

7TEC6

2012

59)The metal bullet was then taken and was put back into the hole, cut facingdownwards with the black wire from the battery clip hooked on to it

(touching).

60)The bullet was secured in place by being hammered down into the timberwith a mallet.


26/26

Andrew Wong

7TEC6

2012

61)The acrylic was place back onto the timber and was screwed down to hold itin place. The aluminium was also put back through the acrylic and into the

metal bullet, with the screw eye going through the aluminium.

62)Finally the game was tested by switching the switch on then testing if the LEDand the buzzer would activate when the metal part of the handle touched the

aluminium.

Evaluation: Problems faced when making the electronic game were that when testing out

the circuit, everything worked BUT the light, this was because the two cables were touching

each other, and not going through the LED. The solution for this was just to make sure that

the two cables werent touching each other, hence allowing power to flow through the LED.

New skills I learnt when making the electronic game were that I learnt how to use a

soldering iron carefully/properly and that you dont need to use a lot of solder when

connecting two cables/devices together.

If I were to make this project again, the only changes I would amend would be not to use

too much solder. Overall I am happy with my project because it taught me new methods

and techniques. It was also fun to do.

Opinions I received from friends and families were that it was very hard and that it was

physically impossible (Kelvin Lun). They liked it because it gave them a bit of a challenge, but

so was his. The project fulfilled its intended outcome.

I think that this was a great project to do as it was fun and interesting.

electronic game project report

Documents