effect of post-spinning operations on the hairiness of...

Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile ResearchVol. 17, September 1992, pp. 119-123

Effect of post-spinning operations on the hairiness of ring-spun cotton yarn

N TarafderCollege of Textile Technology, Serampore, Hooghly 712 20 I, India

Received 21 January 1992; accepted 16 March 1992

Ring-spun yarns from H-4 cotton of30s Ne with 3.46 twist multiplier were prepared and the hairiness ofthese yams from the spinning bobbins as well as the other packages of post-spinning processes was studied bythe projection microscope(Projectina). It is observed that different post-spinning operations increase thehairiness of the ring-spun yarn.

Keywords: Cotton yarn, Ring-spun yarn, Yarn hairiness

1 IntroductionHairiness in yarns generally occurs during

spinning. Ifit is in excess it gives rise to considerabledifficulties in the processes through which the yarnsubsequently passes. There are numerous factorswhich contribute to excessive yarn hairiness. Theeffects of various technological parameters on thehairiness of yarns and to control it have been studiedby several researchers, but there seems to be noreported work on the post-spinning operations.

According to Barella 1 - 3, hairs are classified intothree categories, namely protruding ends, loops andwild fibres. The effects of various processingparameters on yarn hairiness+" and the measurementof hairiness by tracer fibre technique" have beenstudied by several researchers. The influence ofwinding process on yarn hairiness has also beenreported":". Of the various techniques for themeasurement of hairiness reported in theliterature? -12, three methods are very common inresearch laboratories. These are microscopictechnique, loss of weight by singing, andmeasurement using photoelectric principle. Thenature of hairs in open-end and core-spun yarns havebeen studied by Viswanathan et al. 13 and Tarafderand Chatterjee!+ respectively. Sen IS adopted atechnique ofpermeametric procedure for jute yarnsand Slack 16 adopted Shirley hairiness meter forcounting the hairs. The influence of drafting systemson hairiness oflength differentiated blends has beenevaluated by Murthy and Tadvalkar!". An electronicinstrument for measuring hairiness of jute yarns hasbeen demonstrated by Ghosh et al. 18. Theinvestigation carried out by Daspal et al.'?re-established that the number ofloops is more thanthe protruding ends in a spun yarn and also that

shorter fibres caused the yarn more hairy. The variousprecautionary measures to be adopted while spinningto reduce hairiness of spun yarns have beeri stated byChellamani-". Vinzanekar ", in his studies onhairiness due to protruding ends and loops,concluded that as the polyester content increases inblend, occurrence ofloops significantly drops, whichappears to be a characteristic feature of polyesterfibres in blend. The greater average protruding endexplains the visible hairiness of polyester-cottonblended yarns. A comprehensive survey of theliterature on the hairiness of yarns, covering itsmeasurement, the parameters used, the theory, andits influence on yarn properties, spinning andpost-spinning processes, has been reported+.

The present study was aimed at studying the natureof hairiness of a ring-spun cotton yarn of 30s Ne atvarious stages subsequent to spinning and tounderstand, explain and explore the extent ofhairiness added by several post-spinningoperations.

2 Materials and Methods2.1 Production of Yarns in Spinning

Four full ring bobbins of 30s Ne with 3.46 twistmultiplier were spun from rovings of 100% cotton(H-4) on a Texmaco ring frame fitted with SKF aprondrafting unit. The spindle speed was kept at 10,000rpm and the traveller used was of elliptical type.

2.2 Production of Yarns in Warp Winding

Schlafhorst warp winding machine with frictiondrive and reciprocating traverse cam was used forwinding the warp, keeping the traverse speed at35.5m/min, the traverse length at 13cm and the coilangle at 72.11°.

120 INDIAN J. FIBRE TEXT. RES., SEYrEMBER 1992

2.3 Production o(Yams in Weft WiDding

Schlafhorst pim winding machine with frictiondisc drive to the spindle was used for winding the yamonto pims. The spindle speed was kept at 2650 rpm,the traverse speed at lSm/min and the chase length at4cm.

2.4 Production of Fabric

A sample fabric (plain cloth with standard set) waswoven on a Ruti C loom using the above yam as weftand the standard warp.

2.5 Testing

The sample bobbins were conditioned for 48 h at20±2°C and 65±2% RH and the hairiness wasmeasured as described earlier!". A projectionmicroscope(Projectina) was used for counting thehairs(protruding ends and loops). For each yarnsample(spinning, warp winding, weft winding andfabric weft), three slides with two wraps each wereprepared from each layer (top, middle and bottom)except for fabric weft for which the sample was takenon a random basis. The sample segments weremounted on a microscopical slide of75 x 25 mm andfixed at both the ends with cellotape. The sampleswere then covered with another glass slide of the samesize. This was done because the fibres could not befocussed properly as they did not lie in the same planeand would have made counting of the hairs extremely

difficult. From each slide, 25 observations, covering0.6 x 25 mm or 15mm length on one side of the yamsurface, were made. Thus, from 3 slides, a total lengthof 90 mm was examined for the measurement ofhairs.

3 Results and Discussion3 1 Hairiness of Yam in Spinning Package

Table I shows the hairiness of ring-spun yarn interms of protruding ends and loops at upper, middleand lower layers of the yarn in the spinning bobbin.The hairs in terms of number as well as percentage andtheir distribution at different intersecting lengths areshown in this table. The hairiness in the ring-spunyarn (protruding ends plus loops)increases fromupper to lower layer of the package. The distributionof hairs in all the layers gradually decreases fromO.2mm to I.Omm and thereafter slight increase isobserved at above lmm hair length. The total numberof loops predominates over the total number ofprotruding ends in all the three layers of thepackage.

At spinning, hairiness occurs when the fibre endsprotrude from the body of the yarn and other fibresemerge from the yam as loops. In the ring frame whenfibres are delivered by the front roller and twisting offibres takes place into the yarn, fibres at the sidesdevelop tension and cause the fibres at the core todisplace and migrate. As the fibres emerge out of the

Position

UpperMiddleLower

UpperMiddleLower

UpperMiddleLower

Table I-Hairiness of yarn in the ring bobbin

Different intersecting lengths with the linesparallel to yarn surface at a distance(mm) of

0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1.0 > 1.0 Total

No. 0/0 No. % No. % ~o. 0/. No. 0/0 No. 0/0 No. %

Hairiness in terms of protruding ends

316 59.50 115 21.66 31 5.84 14 2.64 19 3.58 36 6.78 531 100407 68.17 86 14.40 40 6.70 22 3.69 9 1.51 33 5.53 597 100372 63.81 98 16.81 45 7.72 22 3.77 7 1.20 39 6.69 583 100

Hairiness in terms of loops

594 78.88 1I6 15.41 29 3.85 7 0.93 4 0.53 3 0.40 753 100667 82.24 104 12.83 27 3.33 II 1.36 I 0.12 1 0.12 811 100681 80.98 116 13.78 31 3.69 8 0.95 2 0.24 3 0.36 841 100

Hairiness in terms of protruding ends plus loops

910 70.87 231 17.99 60 4.67 21 1.64 23 1.79 39 3.04 1284 1001074 76.28 190 13.49 67 4.76 33 2.34 10 0.72 34 2.41 1408 1001053 73.95 214 15.03 76 5.34 30 2.11 9 0.63 40 2.94 1424 100

TARAFDER: HAIRINESS OF RING-SPUN COTTON YARN 121

nip of the front rollers, tension falls and fibres becomeincapable of binding themselves to the yam and stickout of the surface as protruding ends. Thisphenomenon takes place more frequently for shorterfibre. Loops are formed on the yam due to the fibretails that project when laid at the point where theyleave the last pair of rollers. In a ring frame, the yam iswound first on lower side of the bobbin and ring rail isgradually shifted upward. When the ring bobbin isfull, the lower layers of the bobbin are exposed toatmosphere for maximum period followed by middlelayers and upper layers. Thus, air drag andcentrifugal force act on the outer layers of the yam onlower side for a maximum period and cause morenumber of protruding ends and loops in the lowerlayers in comparison to the middle layers. Due to thesame reason, hairs in the middle layers are less butcomparatively more than that in the upper layers ofthe spinning bobbin.

3.2 Hairiness of Yarn in Warp Package

Table 2 shows the distribution ofhairs(protrudingends and loops) both in number and percentage in theyam wound onto a warp bobbin in warp windingmachine. Hairs in terms of protruding ends and loopsand hairiness in terms of protruding ends plus loopsfor upper, middle and lower layers in the warppackage are also shown in this table. The distributionof hairs shows an identical pattern as observed in the

ring package. A marked difference is observedbetween the packages for protruding ends, loops andprotruding ends plus loops. A significant difference isobserved in total number of hairs, except for upper layerin protruding ends of the yam in the warp bobbin.Layers in the warp bobbin show comparatively morehairs than the layers in ring bobbin. This difference isdue to the variation in tension from lower to uppersurface of the bobbin within the package. Thedifference in protruding ends between the packages isdue to more contact surfaces of the yam and variationin the twist level, and the difference in the loops is dueto the variations in yam tension and twist levels.

3.3 Hairiness of Yam in Weft Bobbin

Table 3 shows the nature of hairs in the yam woundin the weft package. It shows the hairiness for threedifferent layers of the yam in the package in the formof protruding ends, loops and protruding ends plusloops both in number as well as in percentage. So faras the distribution within the package in differentlayers is concerned, it follows the same trend asobserved in the case of ring package and warppackage. When a comparison is made between ringpackage and weft package, a clear trend is observed.The weft yam always shows more hairs than ringyam. Moreover, the number of loops alwayspredominates over the protruding ends. The increasein the number of protruding ends and loops in the weft

Position

UpperMiddleLower

UpperMiddleLower

UpperMiddleLower

Table 2-Hairiness of yarn in the warp bobbin

Different intersecting lengths with the linesparallel to yarn surface at a distance(mm) of

0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1.0 > 1.0 Total

No. % No. % No. % No. % No. % No. % No. %


321 62.21 95 18.41 44 8.53 22 4.26 12 2.33 22 4.26 516 100411 65.87 103 16.50 38 6.09 28 4.49 10 1.60 34 5.45 624 100405 65.53 112 18.13 37 5.99 19 3.07 6 0.97 39 6.31 618 100


590 72.84 156 19.26 49 6.05 8 0.99 5 0.62 2 0.24 810 100674 79.76 124 14.67 32 3.79 11 1.30 3 0.36 1 0.12 845 100722 77.38 142 15.22 40 4.29 18 1.93 7 0.75 4 0.43 933 100


911 68.70 251 18.93 93 7.01 30 2.26 17 1.28 24 1.82 1326 1001085 73.86 227 15.45 70 4.77 39 2.66 13 0.88 35 2.38 1469 1001127 72.66 254 16.38 77 4.96 37 2.39 13 0.84 43 2.77 1551 100

122 INDIAN J. FIBRE TEXT. RES., SEFrEMBER 1992

Table 3-Hairiness of yarn in the weft bobbin

Position Different intersecting lengths with the linesparallel to yarn surface at a distance(mm) of

0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1.0 > 1.0 Total

No. % No. % No. % No. % No. % No. % No. %


Upper 323 59.81 119 22.04 40 7.41 21 3.89 \0 1.85 27 5.00 540 100Middle 391 63.47 99 16.07 56 9.09 20 3.25 10 1.62 40 6.49 616 100Lower 342 56.63 105 17.36 50 8.26 21 3.47 17 2.81 70 11.57 605 100


Upper 685 74.62 173 18.85 38 4.14 12 1.31 2 0.22 8 0.87 918 100Middle 654 79.37 118 14.32 34 4.13 12 1.46 2 0.24 4 0.49 824 100Lower 708 76.54 121 \3.08 59 6.38 23 2.49 6 0.65 8 0.86 925 100


Upper 1008 69.14 292 20.03 78 5.35 33 2.26 12 0.82 35 2.40 1458 100Middle 1045 72.57 217 15.07 90 6.25 32 2.22 12 0.83 44 3.06 1440 100Lower 1050 68.63 226 14.77 109 7.12 44 2.88 23 1.50 78 5.10 1530 100

Table 4-Hairiness of weft yarn in the fabric

Position Different intersecting lengths with the linesparallel to yarn surface at a distance(mm) of

0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1.0 > 1.0 Total

No. % No. % No. % No. 0/0 No. 0/0 No. % No. 0/0


Weft 380 61.29 120 19.35 44 7.10 22 3.55 16 2.58 38 6.\3 620 100


Weft 669 71.94 166 17.85 60 6.45 19 2.04 7 0.75 9 0.97 930 100


Weft 1049 67.68 286 18.45 104 6.71 41 2.65 23 1.48 47 3.03 1550 100

package is due to more number of contacts. The usualtrend, if the initial hairiness is less and more number ofwindings are done, is that the hairiness increases dueto the greater number of contacts.

3.4 Hairiness of Weft Yam in Fabric

Table 4 shows the hairiness of the weft yarn woveninto a fabric. The total hairs in terms of protrudingends and loops are comparatively high in this yarnthan in ring yarn and weft yarn. During weaving,when the shuttle is projected from one box to the other

by picking mechanism, the weft yarn comes out of theshuttle from the pirn through the shuttle eye. It causessome abrasion between the weft and the shuttle eye.Again, when the weft is beaten to the fell of the cloth,there is a friction between warp and weft yarns due tointerlacement of threads into the fabric as well as tothe beating up. There are other contacts wherefriction is generated in the weaving process. Thus,friction at different contact points gives rise to morenumber of hairs either in terms of protruding ends orloops or both.

TARAFDER: HAIRINESS OF RING-SPUN COTTON YARN 123

4 Conclusions4.1 The total number of protruding ends plus loops inthe yam of spinning package is lowest for the upperlayer and highest for the lower layer. The protrudingends predominate over the loops.

4.2 The hairiness of warp yam is more than that of thering yam in all the three layers.

4.3 The hairiness of weft yam in weft package andfabric is more than that of the yam of spinningpackage.

4.4 The different post-spinning operations like warpwinding, weft winding and fabric making add to yamhairiness.

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