Eat, Drink IrelandFrom artisanal cheese in ancient estates to pub grub and stout in a workman’s saloon,our writer savours forty shades of tasty. SM King chronicles Ireland’s culinary revival.

To whom do you turn for some proper chefcred? Albert Roux, of course. Jeanne andPaul Rankin wrote the Master a letter andspent three years under his guidance in histriple-Michelin-starred restaurant. After

stints in Australia, Singapore, Thailand and Hong Kong,they returned home to Belfast and opened Roscoff; thefirst restaurant in Northern Ireland to be awarded aMichelin star.

The Rankins quickly became local heroes and landed atelly show in which they shamelessly promote Irishfoodstuffs. The Irish culinary scene has since blossomed,with artisan producers and new establishments making the

country a more than viable gastronomic destination. Infact, it’s hot.

Sniffing the trend, foul mouthed but lovable über-bratGordon Ramsay has just set up shop at the new Ritz-Carlton Powerscourt in County Wicklow. This low-rise andsprawling establishment is a beacon of luxe on theapproach to one of the country’s most famous estates,Powerscourt House and Gardens. The hotel development issensitively done: you can barely see this colossus from theroad. In fact, blink and you’ll miss it.

Gordon Ramsay at Powerscourt is the celebrity chef’sfirst foray into Ireland, and he has appointed one of hisright hand men, Paul Carroll, as his Chef De Cuisine and

installed key front-of-house staff to run the place.It appears a good move. There’s a waiting list to join

the waiting list. Plan on booking eons in advance to dine atthe chef’s table in the kitchen and enjoy the culinarysideshow.

Powerscourt is also home to a couple of cracker golfcourses, making the area a potentially tasty alternative tostaying in Dublin. It’s only 20km away.

Eating well surrounded by centuries-old opulence isn’texclusive to the Ritz-Carlton. It can be done all overIreland.

In County Mayo on the west coast, Ashford Castle is amagnificent edifice and five-star hotel both. It’s a

CAYENNE.

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storybook fortress, and one of Ireland’s most stunningsettings for a well-heeled wedding. You can dine in thesuper stuffy and elegant George V dining room or opt forthe more casual and bucolic Cullen’s at the Cottage on thecastle grounds. Freshly steamed wild mussels finishedwith wine and fresh herbs, plus a side order of thewickedly named and absolutely fantastic cheesy potatoes,sate an appetite earned through a morning of castle-worthy falconry and clay pigeon shooting on the grounds.It’s a standout meal on a cold day.

Every accommodation option ranging from castles toB&Bs is accessible right across the country. Boutiqueproperties are springing up all over the island. And eachhas an individual take on relaxation and refinement.

Wineport Lodge in Athlone describes itself as a“lakeshore restaurant with rooms” as well as Ireland’s FirstWine Hotel. They’re both pretty apt descriptions. ChefFeargal O’Donnell creates excellent dishes from wellchosen local seasonal produce. A sauté of wildmushrooms and roast parsnip served with grilled soda farlis simple and delicious. Seared fillet of McGeogh’s Irishbeef, celeriac and smoked Ardrahan mousseline withsundried pepper tapanade sounds too busy to succeed,but emerges well-balanced. Irish Ardrahan has all the

aroma and delicacy you’d expect from a quality washedrind semi-soft cheese, and it’s a good match with thetender beef and slightly sweet tapenade.

The selection of wines from around the world isconscientious. This wine theme continues to theaccommodation where rooms are not numbered but bearthe names of top producers instead.

Just down the road from Wineport in town is Sean’sBar. A wattle-and-wicker walled tavern dating from 900 AD, this pub is Ireland’s oldest. If you’ve time to visitone pub in Ireland, make it Sean’s. The live music andatmosphere are as intoxicating as the Smithwick’s ale andGuinness on tap. You will not go gentle into this goodnight.

If you elect to stay over night at Wineport, the

succulent warm baked ham leg in the carvery at breakfastwill rectify any wobblies brought on by a nip too much atSean’s the night before.

In County Wexford, Monart Spa is a magnet forindulgent locals and weary execs from Dublin. There aretwo ways to approach this place. Monart is a plush pad tospend the weekend being pampered by massages, sleekaccommodation and fine dining. Or, it’s a spa destinationin which to detox and rejuvenate. Some ambitioustravellers try out both functions.

There’s a five-day program for those wishing tochange unwholesome life-long habits, and the spatreatments have received international accolades andawards. The restaurant is also top notch, whether youchoose to induce a post-massage coma by way of asupreme of Caim organic chicken with confit chickenrillette, seared foie gras, sautéed wild mushrooms with atruffle jus washed down with an exquisite Bordeaux (abottle of Château Latour 1990 Pauillac is a snip at€1600.00). Or, you can heroically stay on the detox paththrough cannelloni of leek and ratatouille with braised Puylentils and a light vegetable broth accompanied by gingertea.

The passion for Irish foodstuffs is deliciously evident on

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GEORGE V DINING ROOM AT ASHFORD CASTLE.

SHERIDANS CHEESEMONGERS, GALWAY.

CULLENS AT THE COTTAGE. GORDON RAMSAY PORK BELLY, SCALLOP AND SPAGHETTI.

THE RESTAURANT AT MONART SPA.

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the plates in these smaller establishments, and all mannerof artisan produce is gaining popularity.

Over in Galway, in the country’s west, the wine bar atSheridan’s Cheesemongers bustles with activity on theweekend, as customers perch on bar stools at high tablesand others gather vulture-like waiting for a vacant seat.

Everyone is here to sample Seamus and KevinSheridan’s outstanding selection of local cheeses, such asDurrus and Clonmore. Made by Jeffa Gill in County Cork,Durrus is a semi-soft washed rind raw cow’s milk cheesewhich has picked up just about every cheese award youcan imagine. It’s a superstar. Think of it as the cheesyequivalent of Bono.

Another County Cork award winner is Tom and LenaBeggane’s Clonmore cheese, a hard waxed rind goatscheese that’s available raw or pasteurised. Its distinctiveflavour is wonderfully smooth. You can pick up thesecheese superstars downstairs in the shop.

Sheridan’s started as a humble stall at Galway marketin 1995 and has quickly become a major artisan cheesedistributor in Ireland with an additional two retail outlets inDublin.

There’s further fine selection at Dublin’s premiergourmet food emporium, Fallon & Byrne. Another favouriteof dedicated Irish foodies, this is a showcase of greatproducts from around the country. Fallon & Byrne isintended as a one-stop solution for those wanting to bringthe best of the season to table. Vibrant fruit andvegetables, olive oils, coffees and charcuterie are plentiful,and there’s a decent selection of wines in the cellar tosample on the premises with a snack or take home.

Main course salads crafted from seasonal localproduce are served in the upstairs restaurant and make afantastic light meal. Marinated beef fillet with crisp Asianvegetables, ice leaves and a coriander, garlic, lemon andwhite balsamic dressing is a great blend of textures,surprisingly filling and undoubtedly healthy.

The couple who helped kick start Irish pride in food,the Rankins, would indeed be proud.

Back over the border in Northern Ireland, the Rankin’sRoscoff is long gone and sorely missed. But its successorCayenne has been setting a sprightly pace in the Belfastfood scene. The place is casual and elegant; the wait staffknows their stuff and the kitchen doesn’t falter. In keepingwith their world travels, the Rankin’s menu at Cayenne isboth Asian inspired and dotted with home comforts. Crispyfried hake with spiced mushy peas and Thai mayo is abold yet perfectly sensible fusion. The seafood wontonswith hot and sour broth is aromatic, heady, and perfectlyspiced. (Double the serving size would be nice, though.Travel is a hungry business.) The menu has most tastybeasts represented, but the seafood items stand out. Thetuna au poivre with wasabi potato salad and crispy shallotsis sublime. It can be served blue upon request, and there’sno better way to have it.

While Cayenne keeps Belfast’s young avant-haute ontheir toes and with an eye to the future, another must-visitculinary destination is steadfastly preserving the past.

A fine example of the grand Victorian gin palace isNational Trust owned Crown Liquor Saloon.

Wooden carvings and columns combine with ornatemirrors, brocaded walls and tiled mosaic floors to form avisually stunning interior. Semi private wooden booths withdoors, called snugs, line the wall. Intact are the metalplates for striking matches and a bell system forsummoning the bar staff. One can easily imagine theclandestine meetings that have taken place in the snugsover the years.

This is the place to come for Irish lamb stew, beef andGuinness pie, boiled ham and cabbage and the CrownChamp: cream potatoes, scallions and two pork and leeksausages in onion gravy. There are wines on offer, but thisis a pub, albeit a grand one. There’s no betteraccompaniment than a pint of local favourite Harp or thecompulsory Guinness.

When you’ve had your fill of massages, wine hotels,goat’s cheese and fusion, stout and snags will work atreat. It’s this hearty fare for which you came looking. This,after all, is Ireland.

The writer was a guest of Tourism Ireland and Etihad AirwaysCayenne, Belfast, 7 Ascot House, Shaftesbury Square,Belfast +44 (0)28 90 331532 www.rankingroup.co.uk

Crown Liquor Saloon, 46 Great Victoria Street Belfast+44 (0)28 90279901 www.crownbar.com

Monart Spa, The Still, Enniscorthy, County Wexford, +353 (0)87 2122995 www.monart.ie

Fallon & Byrne, 11-17 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2 +353 (0)1 472 1010 www.fallonandbyrne.com

Wineport Lodge, Athlone, Glasson, Athlone, Co.Westmeath +353 (0)90 643 9010 www.wineport.ie

Sean’s Bar, Main Street, Athlone, Co. Westmeath +353 (0)90 6492358, www.seansbar.ie

Cullen’s at the Cottage, Ashford Castle, Cong, Co. Mayo,+353 (0)94 9546003 www.ashford.ie

Ritz-Carlton Powerscourt, Powerscourt Estate,Enniskerry, Co. Wicklow, +353 (0)1 274 8888 www.ritzcarlton.com

Sheridan’s Cheesmongers, 14-16 Churchyard Street,Galway, Co. Galway, +353 (0)91 564 829www.sheridanscheesemongers.com

Address book

FALLON & BYRNE FOODHALL.

CHEFS TABLE – RC POWERSCOURT.

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