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Easy Scale Modeling

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Easy ScaleModeling

Welcome to the world of scale modeling! Whether youare taking up the hobby for the first time or returningafter a hiatus, this booklet will be a useful addition to

your workbench. It distills the knowledge and experience ofFineScale Modeler magazine’s authors and editors into a singlequick-start reference guide.

Modelers build for a variety of reasons. For some, it’s a way toget closer to a subject (aircraft, tank, ship, auto, or some othervehicle) that fascinates them. Most of us will never drive a racecar,fly a fighter plane, or sail on a battleship. But we can build mod-els of those machines—and learn how they work and what rolethey played in history.

Whatever your reason for taking up the hobby, it takes time tobecome a good modeler. I’ve never met a modeler who said he hadmastered everything and had nothing more to learn. No matter howwell the last model came out, there’s always something that can bedone better on the next one. With each project, you learn from yourmistakes, add to your skills, and become a better modeler.

How far you develop your skills is up to you. Some modelerslike to build kits straight from the box, without modifications.That’s fine. Others research their subjects for years, gatheringbooks, articles, photos, and other data from all over the world.Then they spend more years meticulously recreating every detailof a specific vehicle. Developing modeling skills is a journey. Asyou progress, you’ll decide how far you want to go.

But now, it’s time to turn the page and begin your modelingjourney. Enjoy! —Lawrence Hansen

Acknowledgments: Christopher Appoldt, Tea Benduhn, Paul Boyer, Bob Collignon, Jim Forbes, D.J. Heinrich, Elizabeth Lamb, Candice St. Jacques, Kristin Schneidler, Terry Thompson, Matthew Usher, Jeff Wilson, William Zuback

Senior editor: Lawrence HansenManaging art director: Michael SolidayArt director: Thomas Ford

The contents of this booklet have previously appeared in FineScale Modeler magazine.

contents

7 steps to safe modeling . . . . . . . . . . . 3

A matter of scale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Top 10 tools. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Go for the glue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Plan your project . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Remove parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Fill seams. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Paint your model. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Put on decals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Add realism. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

© 2005 Kalmbach Publishing Co. All rights reserved. This book may not bereproduced in part or in whole without the written permission of the publisher,except in the case of brief quotations used in reviews. Published by KalmbachPublishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, Waukesha, WI 53187.

Printed in the United States of America

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Visit our website at http://kalmbachbooks.comSecure online ordering available

ISBN 0-89024-583-5

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G#1: Pick the right locationYour work space needs good lightingand adequate ventilation, especiallyif you’ll be airbrushing. Vent thefumes outside the house—sendingthem to another room only endan-gers someone else. Use a sturdy worksurface; don’t model on a wobblytray table in front of the TV. Store allyour modeling supplies behindclosed (or locked) doors whenthey’re not in use.

#2: Watch out for sharp toolsThe two most important things toremember about hobby knives isthat if they have round handles, theywill roll—and the end that usuallyfalls first is very sharp. If somethingrolls off your desk, get out of its wayand let it fall—odds are it will besafer to pick up (or clean up) onceit’s on the floor. Slide a rubber griponto the round handle or tape a sec-tion of sprue to it to take the “round”out so the knife won’t roll. Also, keepa sharp blade in the handle at alltimes. The cut you get from a sharp,fresh blade is likely to heal morequickly than one from a dull blade.

#3: Breathe easyWear disposable dust masks whenyou are sanding; wear a respiratorwhen spray painting or airbrushing.

#4: Respect your power toolsUse power tools the way they weremeant to be used—and follow themanufacturer’s instructions. Clampparts securely, then make sure they’repositioned so that any chips or frag-ments fly away from you. Wear pro-tective eyewear; the little shards ofplastic or resin hurt as much as metalor wood. When necessary, weargloves, a mask, and earplugs. Don’ttry to modify a power tool; buy thespecialty attachment you need.

#5: Know your chemistryGlues, paints, solvents, and sealersare all chemicals. Some of the com-binations of these chemicals arerelatively harmless, but others canbe risky, dangerous, or even fatal.Read the information on thepackage. The label will tell you whatthe basic hazards are, how you canavoid them, and what to do in caseof an accident.

#6: Play it safeUse materials and tools properly,and use extra caution when trying anew product. If you’re picking uptips from a friend or buying some-thing at the store, don’t be afraid toask questions. It’s foolish to end upin the hospital because you didn’twant to ask a “stupid” question.

#7: Use common senseThe most important asset you canhave for safe model building is yourown self-education. Make sure youknow what materials you are work-ing with, how to work with them,what they can and cannot do, andwhat to do if something goes wrong.

Store paints, solvents, and otherchemicals in well-sealed and well-labeled containers, in the appropri-ate temperature range.

Don’t assume that if you don’tsmell anything, there’s nothing harm-ful in the air. If you begin to feelsleepy, inattentive, or distracted, takea break. If you have old materials, callyour local hazardous waste disposalfacility to find out if they’re still safeto use—or how to dispose of them.

If you have special medical con-ditions, talk with your doctor aboutthe chemicals you use and avoid anythat might aggravate your condition.

Precautions aren’t intended toprevent you from modeling—they’remeant to keep you modeling happilyfor years to come. Use them.

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7 steps to safe modelingYou have that exciting new kit in your hands, and you’re readyto tear open the box and start building, right? Not so fast,buddy. Let’s take a minute to talk about safety. Not only mayyou save a trip to the emergency room, you’ll actually be moreproductive in your hobby.

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A model’s “scale” is expressed as afraction of its full-sized counterpart.A 1/6 scale figure of a 6′ personwould be 1′ tall, with the propor-tions of that subject faithfully repro-duced head to foot. Put in thereverse, it would take 72 1/72 scaleF-16 Falcons end-to-end to equal thelength of the real thing.

The P-51 Mustang models in thephoto above show, from front toback, these scales: 1/144, 1/72, 1/48,1/32, and 1/24.

Some modelers are “constantscale” builders, meaning they buildeverything in the same scale, oftenregardless of the subject. Othermodelers like to skip around a bitscale-wise.

Before you can decide what scaleyou want to model, you need to firstknow the strengths and weaknessesof the various scales.

AircraftModels in 1/32 scale or larger arebig—really big. The parts are easierto handle than in smaller scales, andthere are usually more of them. Themodels are impressive, but you’llneed a lot of display space. Thereare fewer subjects available in 1/32scale than in 1/48 or 1/72.

Easier to build than 1/72 scale,1/48 scale offers most major single-engine aircraft, plus some multi-engine types. Subjects are more limited than 1/72 scale, but if youcan’t decide on a scale for your nextairplane project, 1/48 scale is yourbest choice. The kits are often newerthan their 1/72 scale counterparts,and the parts fit together more easily.

The largest variety of kits is avail-able in 1/72 scale. The models aresmall enough to display, but largeenough to have good detail. If youwant to build everything, loveobscure subjects, or are short onspace, 1/72 scale is a great choice.

A good variety of kits of airlinersand multi-engine military types isavailable in 1/144 and smallerscales. The models are easy to storeand display, but they demand excel-lent building and painting skills.

ArmorThe widest variety of armor subjectsis available in 1/35 scale. The modelsare big enough to detail but smallenough to display on a shelf. Watchout for older kits, however—someare terrific, but many are clunky.

Popular in Europe, 1/72 scaleoffers a good variety of subjects

(some older kits are 1/76 scale).Detail parts can be finicky to workwith, and many parts are heavy forscale, but this is a good size if youhave limited space.

On the other end of the size spec-trum is 1/16 scale. These huge mod-els have a high “wow” factor. Be sureyou have the space to display them.

AutosThe “standard” scales for auto kitsare 1/24 and 1/25. (There’s a 4-per-cent size difference, so be carefulwhen swapping parts between kits.)Completed models are large enoughto detail and small enough to dis-play. You can even combine themwith 1/24 scale aircraft in dioramas.

If you prefer impressive size andjaw-dropping detailing, go for mod-els in 1/12, 1/18, or 1/20 scale. Beprepared for a limited selection ofkits and aftermarket parts. The sizeof these models also demandsexceptional painting skills.

In 1/43 scale, you’ll find a goodselection of foreign and racing sub-jects, as well as die-cast models to“kitbash” or modify. These modelsare conveniently sized for display,but very few injection-molded plas-tic kits are available in this scale.

ShipsThe majority of ship models are in1/700 and 1/720 scale. There’s a broadselection of subjects, especially ifyou’re a WWII Pacific Theater mod-eler, and the size of the finished mod-els is nice for displays and dioramas.They’re just big enough to make youwant to add more detail and smallenough that it’s tough to do.

With a narrower choice of sub-jects but great potential for addingfantastic detail, 1/350 scale is thescale of choice for serious ship mod-elers. The models are impressivewhen complete, but few kits areavailable in plastic. Completed mod-els are large but more manageablethan larger scales.

Ship models are available inscales smaller than 1/720. They’reexcellent for dioramas, wargames,and large collections, but some ofthe models are pretty rough.

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A matter of scaleBefore you make a trip to the hobby shop to pick out yourfirst model, there’s a question you need to ask yourself: “What scale do I want it to be in?” Read on for the answers.

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If you don’t get the results you wantwith these tools, there are moreexpensive items out there, includingmotor tools, razor saws, scribers,and jeweler’s files. Start with thesebasics, though, and see what youfind—you’ll be surprised.

Masking tape & modeling puttyEvery workshop must have thesebasics! Use the tape to secure piecesfor painting, hold together sub-assemblies, and mask paint or putty.Here, tape masks the rest of theplane from being marred by seam-filling putty, 1. The tape is applied oneither side of the wing-fuselage jointso the putty won’t dry on any surfacewhere it shouldn’t be. A flat-bladedhobby knife spreads the compound

along the seam; you could also use atiny metal spatula. Remove the tapesoon after application.

White glue, swabs, & toothpicksGreat for transparent parts since itdries clear, white glue also has nofumes to fog the plastic. Here, whiteglue spread gently with a moistenedcotton swab fills a canopy seam, 2.Toothpicks hold parts awaiting paint.

Hobby knivesVersatile cutting tools, hobby knivesaccept many different blades, makingthem ideal for anything from trim-ming plastic to scribing lines. Thisknife (with a No. 11 blade) neatlyremoves decals from a sheet, 3.

Sanding sticksSmooth, seamless plastic makes anymodel look better. Sanding sticks andwet/dry sanding films help removeflaws from plastic, 4 (page 6).

Use successively finer grades asyou sand. Wet the sanding film tokeep the plastic dust from cloggingthe grit; the job will go faster. A four-way polishing or buffing stick forfingernails (less than $1 at a beautysupply store) will remove even thefaintest scratches from plastic.

SandpaperUse a full sheet of 320-grit sand-paper laid on a flat surface to dressthe edges of kit parts, especiallylarge pieces like fuselage halves, 5.

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Top 10 toolsWhen it comes to setting upyour work space, you needtools—tools to construct,mend, sand, and finish yourmodels. Not necessarilyexpensive, these are the standard items every goodmodeler needs on hand.

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The flat surface promotes smooth sand-ing of the part, but you have to applyeven pressure as you sand. Pressing toohard may distort the part and causeuneven results.

Sanding bowOne of the handiest sanding tools tocome along is Creations Unlimited’s“Flex-I-File.” It’s an aluminum bow thatholds an interchangeable Mylar sandingstrip, 6a. The Flex-I-File works great oncurves without flattening the surround-ing area, 6b. The strips can be detachedfrom one end of the bow, threadedthrough an opening in the part youwant to sand, and reconnected to thebow. This way, you can sand the insideof such parts as landing-gear scissors,chassis frames, and so forth. If the

1⁄4″-wide strips are too wide, you can cutthem down to make them fit.

Sanding shapersCreations Unlimited also makes “Flex-I-File Flex-Pads” (known generically assanding sticks), which are similar to fin-gernail shapers. Available individuallyor in sets, 7, the sticks come in coarse,medium, fine, extra-fine, and a three-way polisher/finisher that has extra-fine, super-fine, and buffer surfaces.They are 1⁄2″ wide, about 6″ long, andhave tapered tips to get into tight areas.The grit is applied to both sides of eachlightly padded plastic stick.

Cosmetic suppliesDon’t be surprised if you bump into afellow modeler at the cosmetic/nail-care

section of the drug store. All sorts ofemery boards and nail shapers are greatfor modeling. Your all-time favoritesanding tool may end up being the KissNail Shiner (item no. F222), a “four-way” shaper/buffer, 8. The four grits onthis item are labeled “coarse” (blue),“fine” (red), “Xtra fine buffer” (white),and “XXtra fine buffer” (gray). Theseare equivalent to medium, very fine,extra fine, and buffer grits on the com-mercial modeling sanding sticks. TheKiss stick is 3⁄4″ wide and 7″ long.

Sanding wandsMicro-Mark’s “sanding wands” areanother alternative, 9. These ruggedplastic sticks have unpadded loops ofsandpaper wrapped around them. Theset of four has grits ranging from coarseto extra-fine. When the grit becomesworn, you roll the strip around thestick, much like track on a tank, andcontinue work with fresh grit.

FilesFor extra-fine finish work, make sureyou have a variety of files at your work-bench, 10. Needle files, dental tools, rif-fler files, and jeweler’s tools all comeinto play for fine precision work.

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EYou may be saying to yourself,“Glue? Big deal! Plastic cement andsuper glue—what more do I need?”Ah, but the glue universe is muchbroader than you might think. Asurprising number of glues is avail-able, including many other typesthat you may ultimately find moreuseful to your modeling needs thanthe two basics.

Basic plastic cementThe classic favorite is that old standby,Testor liquid cement, the one with thebrush in the cap. This cement worksgreat when you can put the assemblyaside to set for a while. If you need aquicker weld just to “tack” piecestogether, use Tenax 7R (AmbroidProweld also works well). Reglue thetacked pieces later with the Testorcement if you need a permanent weld.

“Clear” glueTestor’s Clear Parts Cement &Window Maker works as well as

advertised—maybe even better. Ifyou work neatly and put the glueonly where it is needed, it reallydoes disappear on clear surfaces.

Super glueFor gluing dissimilar materials(such as resin to plastic, for exam-ple) or even gluing metal to metal,super glue is ideal. Zap-a-Gap has amedium drying time and a high vis-cosity (meaning it’s a bit syrupy),which gives it better shear strengththan thin super glues. It also worksgreat as a seam filler. It sets immedi-ately with an accelerator (also called

a “kicker”) if you need to lock anassembly right away. Use a thinnerviscosity super glue when you needmore capillary action—it runs downseams quicker, but watch that itdoesn’t run onto your fingers!Always have a bottle of super gluedebonder on hand.

Contact cementUse old-fashioned household contactcement (such as “Quickgrab” and“Goo”) in your diorama work to glueporous materials to nonporousmaterials (for example, wood toresin or plastic).

Wood gluesAlso useful for bonding porous mate-

rials is white glue—good ol’Elmer’s Glue-All—and car-penter’s (aliphatic resin)

wood glue. If you use themcarefully, they can also substi-

tute for clear parts glue. Theseglues are water-based, making themeasy to thin. You can even tint themwith acrylic paint.

So, expand your selection ofglues and you’ll find the advantagesof each. Your models will be all thebetter for it!

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Go for the glueModelers usually buy their materials from a hobby shop, butdon’t overlook hardware, art supply, and home improvementstores. You might discover a venue for a whole new glue!

Testor’s Clear Parts Cement &Window Maker is milky white whenwet, but driesclear, makingit perfect foraircraftcanopies andother clear parts.

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The best modelers develop a “plan ofattack” that helps them build kitsmore quickly. The key is doing a lit-tle research, test-fitting, and plan-ning. It’s a method that works wellno matter what you’re building.

The first—and possibly mostimportant—thing to do is study thekit instructions, starting with thepaint list. Some kit manufacturers

list only paints from certain manu-facturers that may not be availablewhere you live. All good kits have anEnglish translation in the chart, 1.

Some kits share parts with otherkits in the manufacturer’s productlines. Many kit instructions have aparts map that shows you whichparts aren’t used for the versionyou’re building, 2. Remove unused

parts from the trees before you startbuilding, 3. Don’t throw them away,though; put them in a box and savethem for future projects.

The next step is to test-fit theparts you are going to use. Test-fitting (sometimes also called “dry-fitting”) is important for two rea-sons. First, you’ll find out if the partsgo together properly or have gaps oralignment problems that need to befixed before you glue them, 4.

Second, test-fitting shows you howto break down the kit’s componentsinto subassemblies to make paintingeasier, 5. A closed-up tank model iseasy to paint after assembly, but mod-els like the open halftrack shown herehave intricate details both inside andout that are better if painted beforethe parts are attached to the model’smain assembly.

Test-fitting really pays with smallparts like the halftrack’s individual-link tracks. Dry-fitting several of thetiny links showed that if they wereassembled carefully with droplets ofsuper glue in key places, they’d flexjust like the real thing, 6. Afterassembling a run of links, the trackcan be test-fit on the model andadjusted before final assembly.

A little upfront planning will payoff handsomely. Your projects willgo more smoothly, and you’ll avoidbumps in the road that slow downyour work. Best of all, your finishedmodels will look better.

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Plan your projectYou buy a kit and eagerly race home, taking it out of the boxthe moment you get there. You begin removing the pieces,preparing to put the model together then and there. But sadly,the kit doesn’t go together right. What went wrong? Nothingmuch, other than you weren’t ready yet to build the model.A little upfront planning can take care of that.

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Dragon’s 1/35 scale SdKfz 250/10

German halftrack wenttogether smoothly and

easily—with some upfront planning.

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The trick to cutting the parts fromthe sprue is using the correctmethod for the type of part you’reremoving. There are several ways tocut and sand; some are better suitedto particular tasks than others.

A sprue cutter makes quick, easywork of removing these wings fromthe parts tree, 1. You’re not likely tocut yourself, and controlling the cutis simple.

“Flash” results from the injectionmolding process and is a commonsight on model parts. You can easily

remove it with a No. 11 blade in ahobby knife, 2. Be careful not totrim away too much plastic.

The jet intake on the left in photo3 was torn from the tree and gluedwith liquid cement. It’s a mess! Theintake to the right of it was properlyremoved with a clipper, then sandedalong the edges before cementing.

When cleaning up a part, hold itfirmly in one hand and place theblade in the spot you want your cutto start, 4. Keep the blade at anangle, and carefully trim away the

remaining sprue from the part.A straight blade in a hobby knife

produces precise cuts perfect forremoving flat-edged parts such as air-craft wings, 5. Working on top of a“self-healing” mat like this one alsoincreases your control of the blade.

Small parts have a nasty habit ofbecoming ballistic projectiles whenfreed by a straight blade. A curvedblade planted tip-first into your self-healing mat can be rolled over yourtiny part to free it without launchingit across your hobby room, 6.

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RemovepartsRemember your first model-ing attempt as a kid, whenall you cared about was,“When can I play with it?”For many of us, that meantdoing the “twist and pull”—removing the model’s partsfrom the sprue (or partstree) the fastest way possibleso that we could get down tothe fun of assembling the kit.

Since then, many of ushave learned that tearing thepieces of the kit from thetree is a sure way to damagethe part, leading to a modelthat needs a lot of sanding,shaping, and filling to makethe parts fit correctly.

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Begin by using a straightened paperclip or a toothpick to apply the gap-filling super glue to the seam, 1.Film container caps (as shown) ormargarine container lids are greatplatforms to work from—super gluedoesn’t stick to them.

Putty would work here, but the

advantage of working with superglue is accelerator, 2. Super glueaccelerator, applied here with aMicrobrush, causes the glue to cureinstantly, so you can get right towork cleaning it up by sanding.

Using a sanding stick affords yougreater control over where the grit

contacts the seam, 3. You don’t wantto sand off detail or take the “round”out of a curved part if you can helpit. Wet-sanding will keep the stickfrom clogging with dust. Sand theseam down to the surface of theplastic, and you’re ready to paint.

You can also use one of manygap-filling putties. Putty can getmessy, though, and end up whereyou don’t want it—try running tapealong both sides of the seam so itwon’t get on nearby surfaces whereit doesn’t belong, 4.

Apply the putty with a firm, flattool (such as a popsicle stick), whichwill allow you to push the putty intothe seam and spread it along thetop, 5. Don’t spend too much timesmoothing the putty; it dries quicklyand will start to cake if you work ittoo much.

Now that the putty is applied,you can peel off the protectivetape, 6. It doesn’t look pretty, and itisn’t supposed to. When it sets (eachputty’s drying time is different—readthe labels), you’ll be sanding most ofthe putty off.

Wet-sanding doesn’t always workwell with putties, since some ofthem soften or break up when wet.Try successively finer grades ofsandpaper or a sanding stick to sandit down to the plastic. When you’redone, it will look like the photo atthe top of this page, but when it’spainted you won’t see a thing!

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Fill seamsModel kits are supposed to fit together seamlessly, but oftenyou need to sand at least a little to smooth the seam whereparts join. In many cases, you’ll use putty or gap-filling superglue to blend the joint. Your goal is to hide the “gap” areacompletely, filling in the empty space to make it invisible to theeye when painted. The procedure varies a little depending onwhat you use to fill the gap, but as you’ll see from the photos,the results should be the same: That seam will be gone!

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Brush paintingSuccessful brush painting requiresgood brushes and fresh paint, aswell as techniques to eliminatebrush marks.

The projects shown here werepainted with Model Master Acryland Polly Scale acrylic paints. Bothare quality paints that can bethinned (and cleaned up) withwater. The techniques for usingenamels are similar, but you’ll needto use mineral spirits or lacquerthinner to clean your brush. Thephotos show plastic parts beingpainted, but the techniques are thesame for other materials.

For painting broad surfaces, useas wide a brush as possible, such asround brushes up to No. 5 and 1⁄4″ to1⁄2″ flat brushes, 1. The softer thebristles, the smoother the finish willbe. For a smooth finish coat, espe-cially with gloss paint, get a goodsable brush. A good-quality synthet-ic brush can also provide a smooth

finish. Camel hair brushes are goodfor rough surfaces and general-pur-pose painting.

Brush marks are the bane ofbrush painting. The main causes arebrushes with stiff bristles (poor-

quality brushes or old ones withbristles hardened by dried paintresidue) and overbrushing, whichleaves patterns in the paint as it dries.

Make sure the surface is cleanand free of skin oils from handling.Even a little oil repels acrylic paint,ruining the finish.

Begin by wetting the brush inwater (or paint thinner for enamels).Wipe off the brush using a cleancloth or paper towel. This step easescleanup by keeping paint from dry-ing on the bristles.

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Paint your modelYou can get some amazing results using basic brush and spraypainting methods. With practice, you can give each creation afinish nearly as good as that achieved by experienced modelersusing an airbrush. Regardless, every modeler needs to knowhow to paint the details, and brush painting is great for that.

Don’t underestimate the power of the brush!Using the proper techniques, you can createfinishes that are almost airbrush quality.

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Put paint into a separate containeror palette, such as the inexpensive alu-minum type shown here, 2. You canuse an eyedropper or soda straw totransfer the paint.

Avoid painting straight from the bot-tle for two reasons. First, air is the mainenemy of paint, so you must keep thejar closed as much as possible. Second,wiping off excess paint by pulling theedge of the brush over the lip of the jaroften leaves paint in the jar threads.This results in bits of dried paint fallingback into the bottle, and they will even-tually find their way onto the surfaceyou are painting.

Most paints are already the rightconsistency for brush painting. Thin thepaint only if necessary to get it to flowsmoothly on the part. Thinning willdecrease the paint’s opacity, requiringmore coats to cover properly.

Dip your brush in the paint, keepingthe paint on the lower fourth of the

bristles. Brush the paint onto the sur-face, using as few strokes as possible.Let the paint level itself. Don’t over-brush the paint: It will start to dryalmost immediately, and running thebrush over it again will leave unsightlybrush marks.

Follow the general direction of sur-face lines and details, keeping the brushstrokes parallel. Apply paint to the baresurface, then use a light stroke to brushit back to the area most recently paint-ed, 3. Keeping a wet edge at all timeswill prevent overlap marks.

You’ll usually need to apply twocoats, which is what was done to thismotorcycle cowling, 4. Some colors—especially black, dark grays, dark blues,and greens—cover better than others.Lighter colors may need an additionalcoat. If you’re painting white or yellowon anything other than white plastic,start by applying a primer coat ofmedium to light gray.

As with airbrushed finishes, smallripples in the finish can be polished outby wet sanding. After the paint is com-pletely dry, start with 320 grit and useprogressively smoother grades of sand-paper up to 600 grit.

When painting rougher surfaces,such as stone walls, 5, cheaper camelhair brushes work fine. Since brushmarks aren’t critical in this situation,you can move the brush in differentdirections to work the paint into cracksand crevices.

For painting tight areas and smalldetails, try the Model Master No. 0 syn-thetic. It has a fine point—finer thanmany 00 and 000 brushes—and it holdsmore paint than smaller brushes.

When painting details, start withlighter colors and progress to darkerones, but wait 48 hours before paintingone color over another. Paint as muchof each part as possible before assem-bling the model. In fact, keep the parts

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on the sprues as long as you can—sprues make convenient handles.

Different techniques are needed forpainting details. For example, thismotorcycle wheel fork has recessed let-tering that needs to be painted red, whilethe rest of the part must be gold, 6. Startby painting the area with the letteringred, then wiping the surface with a papertowel. This removes the paint from thesurface but leaves it in the recessed let-tering. Then paint the rest of the partgold, carefully using the side of the brushto paint around the letters, 7.

For raised lettering or details, do theopposite: Paint the whole area theappropriate color, then use the side ofthe brush to lightly dab or sweep acrossthe details.

Let the ridges and relief of the partguide the brush, 8. With a fine brush,you’ll be able to work the paint to andaround raised and recessed details. Ifyou get a bit of stray paint on an

adjoining area, don’t panic. After itdries, you can either lightly scrape it offwith a hobby knife or simply paint overit with the proper color. In this exam-ple, the finished wheel fork has crisp,sharp detail, 9.

When you’re finished painting yourmodel, you’re not done yet. Properlycleaning brushes will make them lastlonger and help them hold their shape.After using acrylics, rinse the brush inplenty of warm running water. Massagea drop of liquid dishwashing detergentinto the bristles, then keep massagingthe bristles under running water torinse them.

If you’re using enamel, dip the brushin mineral spirits or lacquer thinner.Swish it around and roll it gentlyagainst the side of the container. Keepthree small jars of thinner for cleaningbrushes. The first is for getting out mostof the paint (this is the dirtiest one), thesecond for cleaning out any remaining

paint, and the third (with clear, cleanthinner) for a final rinse.

Never let brushes stand in thinner,and never jab the bristles down into thebottom of a container. This can damagethe ferrule (the part that holds the bris-tles) and cause the bristles to splay andlose their shape.

While the bristles are still wet aftercleaning, form them to their propershape using your fingers (not yourmouth). Store brushes with the bristlesup, and make sure the bristles don’t restagainst the sides of their storagecontainer, 10. To protect the bristleseven more, use the clear plastic sleevesthat often come with new brushes.

Resist the temptation to buy cheapbrushes; poor brushes will only give youpoor results. Good quality brushes, onthe other hand, will give even inexperi-enced painters better results. Properlycared for, they’re also a better buy.Really good brushes last a lifetime.

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Spray paintingBrush painting is good for details andsmall models, but large exposed areasreally have to be spray painted. Modelingspray paint has come a long way. Yearsago, if you visited a hobby shop lookingfor spray paint to finish your latest proj-ect, you’d find only basic colors such asred, silver, and army green. These days,spray can racks feature plenty of shadesfor aircraft, armor, and autos.

If you’re familiar with FineScaleModeler, you may be thinking, Whyspray paint? While most of the modelsappearing in those pages are paintedwith airbrushes, don’t think, however,that airbrushing is the only way to pro-duce a nice finish. Often, a spray canwill paint your model just as well, with-out the airbrush expense or cleanup time.

Spray cans aren’t perfect, though.Although many more colors are nowavailable, your choices are still limitedto just those colors. Also, the only con-trol for a spray can is the paint nozzle,which works like an on-off switch. Pushthe button, and the paint comes out—atone speed and in one spray pattern.These drawbacks put complex, custom-mixed paint schemes out of reach. Butin most cases, you’ll still be able tomake good-looking models.

Safety should always be your firstconcern when working with spray paints.Invest in a good two-stage respiratormask and wear it every time you paint.

Spray can fumes are flammable, so workin an area with plenty of ventilation,away from ignition sources such as pilotlights. When you’re not using them, storespray cans out of the reach of youngsters,and dispose of empty cans properly.

Warming the paint can will help thepaint flow once it reaches the model,producing a smoother finish. Simply filla container with warm water and placethe can inside, 1. The water should beabout 100°F (38°C), so hot tap watershould be OK. Don’t heat the water orthe spray paint can on the stove, in the

oven, or in the microwave—the can mayexplode and cause serious injury.

Let the can sit in the water for a fewminutes until it’s warm to the touch.Remove it from the water and dry it.Shake the can for a couple of minutes,and make sure the ball bearing inside israttling freely (this is where the expres-sion “rattle can” comes from).

Before spraying, make sure the partsyou’re painting are secured. When paint-ing a large part, fashion a paint stand outof a wire coat hanger and tape it to theinside of the model. You’ll be able to

Problem: A rough, pebbly finish.

Cause: The spray can is too faraway, and the paint is drying in theair on the way to the model.

Solution: Move the spray can closerto the model and spray in smooth,slow strokes.

Problem: Runs in the finish.

Cause: Too much paint! The spraycan is too close to the model, or thepaint is being applied with anuneven, stop-and-start spray stroke.

Solution: Start spraying off one sideof the model and continue sprayinguntil you’re off the other side.

Problem: “Fish eyes.”

Cause: Surface contaminants arepushing through the freshly appliedpaint, producing unpainted circles inthe finish.

Solution: Thoroughly clean themodel with soap and water justbefore painting.

Airbrush-quality finishes from a spray can? You bet! All it will take are the rightpaints for the job and a few basic painting techniques.

Troubleshooting Guide to Spray Paint Problems

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move it as needed to make the most ofthe can’s limited spray pattern.

Some parts can be difficult to holdwhile painting. Find a long piece of sprueand use a tiny drop of super glue to attachit to the part in an inconspicuous place, 2.After the paint is dry, just pop the partloose and install it on the model.

The paint’s force can scatter smallitems. If you have lots of small parts topaint the same color, attach them to apiece of cardboard with a sticky-side-out loop of masking tape, 3. You canpaint all the parts at once, “assemblyline” style, and the tape will keep theparts from scattering across the floor.

After you’ve warmed and thoroughlymixed the paint and prepared yourpieces for spraying, you’re ready tostart. The trick to applying a smooth,even finish is to use a smooth, evenstroke. Press the nozzle button with thecan aimed to one side of the model,about 10″ to 12″ away, 4. Hold the but-ton down and sweep the paint slowlyacross the model, keeping the nozzle ata constant distance. Keep spraying untilyou’re off the other side of the model.Turn the model as needed to ensuregood paint coverage, and shake the canbetween passes.

When you’re finished, move the partsto a dust-free area to dry completelybefore handling. Placing the parts in aplastic storage container keeps them outof harm’s way as they dry.

A little maintenance after paintingwill keep the spray can workingproperly so it will be ready the next timeyou need it. Turn the can upside down.Push the spray button for a few secondswhile the can is inverted, until paintstops coming out. This clears excesspaint from the nozzle and keeps it fromclogging. If the nozzle is covered withexcess paint, dip a cotton swab in lac-quer thinner and wipe it away.

Additional spray painting tipsIf you want to apply smooth gloss fin-ishes straight from the can, a polishingkit may be what you need, 5. This kitcontains several fine-grit sanding cloths(ranging from 2,400- to 12,000-grit) andliquid polishes that can coax a glass-smooth finish from even the lumpiestpaint jobs. The kit is also handy forpreparing plastic surfaces for metallicfinishes and for removing imperfectionsfrom canopies and other clear parts.

Paints designed to create realisticmetallic finishes, such as Testor’s

Metalizer line, 6, require special han-dling. Metalizers go on thin, so preparethe parts carefully and remove anysanding scratches or surface flaws withthe polishing kit before painting.

A few of the mail-order modelingpaint companies offer spray paint infactory-matched automotive colors, 7.Some of these paints require specialprimers, so double-check the directions.

These tips should help you get started.Although the technique has limitations,spray painting can produce eye-catchingfinishes. In some cases, the only differ-ence between an airbrushed finish andone attained from a spray can is the easeof application. Go ahead—make it easyon yourself.

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Keys to successThe most important element insuccessful decaling is to start with asmooth glossy surface. This allowsdecals to be moved into place easilyand prevents the dreaded “silvering.”Silvering is caused by light reflectingand refracting through air trappedbeneath clear decal film.

How does the air get there? Itoccurs when a decal lays over flat-finish paint, which is anything butflat. If you looked at a flat-paintedsurface with a microscope, youwould see zillions of mountains andvalleys—not a smooth surface at all.When a decal is applied to a flat-painted surface, it rests on the topsof these mini-mountains, trappingair in the valleys below. Light pass-

ing through the clear film bouncesoff the sides of the mountains, upthrough the air, and out through theclear film. All this bouncing causesuneven reflections and, to the eye,makes a silvery patch around thedecal—a distracting sight.

Decal setting solutions and sol-vents, 1, soften the clear film andinks, allowing the decal to conformbetter to the surface. However, theydon’t always eliminate silvering, sonip the problem in the bud by decal-ing onto a glossy surface.

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Put on decalsEven the newest modeler can achieve a good-looking projectby adding a few decals. Dealing with decals can be a pleasantexperience for some—and a nightmare for others. But if youanticipate the pitfalls, you can work around them, as long asyou follow the tips outlined here.

This Hasegawa 1/72 scale F-106Delta Dart fighter required a lot ofdecaling. “City of Jacksonville” was a Florida Air National Guard jetspecially painted for the nation’sbicentennial in 1976.

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To attain a smooth glossy surface,either paint with gloss paints or applya clear glossy overcoat to flat paint.Since most modeling paints are flat,applying a clear gloss is the most com-monly used remedy.

If you use both enamels and acrylicson the same model, you need to use aclear gloss that won’t affect either paint.Clear acrylic modeling paint works fine,but Future acrylic floor polish worksjust as well—or even better. Future isalso easy to use and inexpensive, and iteven smells nice!

After all the paints on a model havefully cured, apply the clear gloss coat.Spray on a few light dusty coats at first,to provide a little “tooth” for the forth-coming wet coats. It’s easy to get carriedaway applying clear gloss. Flooding willcause drips, so gradually build up theclear coat to a beautiful smooth shine.

Decal deliberationsAfter the model’s gloss coat is completelycured (48 hours is a safe bet), study thedecaling instructions and the model todetermine where all the decals go. Youmay find that some decals overlap otherdecals, and some items on the decalsheet may go unused on the particularsubject you are modeling. Most models

will have a trouble spot or two. Theareas that challenge your decaling skillsmay include tight corners, compoundcurves, and heavy relief that will need tobe covered by two-dimensional decals.

Check to see if there is a decal thatwill establish the position of otherdecals. This occurs mainly when thedecals take the place of paint in certainareas. Apply these decals first, thenwork your way out from them. If youdon’t, you could run into a problem.One modeler once applied a set of inva-sion stripe decals to the top of the wingsof his P-51 Mustang, only to find thatwhen he put on the bottom stripes, theywould line up either with the top stripesor the openings for the gear bays, butnot both! He should have started withthe bottom stripes that were keyed tothe bays, then aligned the top stripeswith the bottom.

Steps to successCut each decal item from the sheet oneat a time, cutting wide around theimage. Then trim all the excess clearfilm from each decal to hide the edges.To do this, lightly score the film as closeto the image as you can, 2, but don’t cutall the way through the paper as it cancrack the inks along the edge.

Next, dip the decal in warm water, 3,and rest it on a paper towel. Somedecals loosen from the sheet right away,and others take a minute or two. Beforeyou move the decal, remove the excessclear film by pulling away each piecewith tweezers, 4. You don’t want thesestrands of film landing on your model.

Place the model on your worksurface or in your lap so that the area ofthe model to be decaled is facing up.Apply a puddle of water, or better yet, asetting solution such as Micro Setwhere the decal will go, 5. Hold thedecal paper with the tweezers and placeit as near as you can to the positionwhere the decal should be. Gently pushdown on one end of the decal with abrush or cotton swab, then pull thepaper out from under the decal, 6.

Keep the decal wet with water orMicro Set and push it into its final posi-tion with the brush or swab. Once it isin position, wick away excess waterwith the swab. Some modelers like topress the decal into position, squeezingout the liquid from below, but you mayprefer to let the liquid drain. You mayalso want to roll a swab over the decalto push out any air bubbles underneath.

When the decal settles into positionand can no longer be moved about,

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brush on a softening solution (alsocalled a solvent) such as Micro Sol, 7(page 17). Solvents make the decalssnuggle down into recesses and tightlyover raised detail. Once the solvent hasbeen applied, however, do not try tomove or even touch the decal. Itbecomes so soft that the slightest touchwill damage it. Wick away any largepuddles of solvent. Work on all thedecals on one side of the model and letthem dry completely before workingon the other side.

OvercoatsAfter allowing the decals to dry for a day,mop up decal adhesive and solventstains by using a cotton swab dampenedwith solvent. You don’t want to trapthese precipitates under the final clearcoat—they may discolor over time.

Inspect the decals for areas that

might need more solvent. Occasionally,air bubbles will appear under thedecals. Prick them with the point ofyour hobby knife blade, 8, and applymore solvent. Also, look for decalsbridging deep hinge lines; just slicethrough them with the blade andreapply solvent. Excess decal materialsticking out over edges of the printedarea can also be trimmed away with afresh, sharp blade, 9.

Occasionally, you will run into adecal that you just know is going to betrouble, such as the one-piece decalthat decorates the nose of each droptank on this bicentennial F-106. Thisdecal is preshaped to fit onto the skin-ny tank, but it’s not going to conformeasily to the tapered nose. Before wet-ting the decal, make a series of lightcuts through the image, 10. Thesehelp the decal overlap itself without

wrinkling. Next, apply WalthersSolvaset, a strong decal solvent thatpersuades most stubborn decals tooverlap, 11. When it dries, the decalwill conform just about perfectly tothe tank, 12.

After the F-106 dries for a few hours,it is ready for a clear overcoat. Spray onanother coat of clear gloss to seal thedecals and even out the gloss finish, 13.If you desire a flat final finish, this is thetime to spray on a clear flat. You maychoose from a number of products, buttry to apply your selection in severallight, quick-drying, misted-on coats toreduce the chance of the clear coataffecting the decals. The same goes for aclear gloss lacquer if that is what youdecide to use.

With all modeling techniques, prac-tice is the key. The more you decal, thebetter your decaling experience will be.

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A fast, simple wash technique is thesludge wash. Two key elements arecrucial to its success. First, themodel must be glossy—the washwill go on better and come off easierthan on a flat paint. Second, thewash must be made with soapywater—the soap reduces the adhe-sion of the paint.

The beauty of this technique isthat it can be made with any color—even white! Consider the colorscheme of the model to determinewhich color to use for the wash. Apredominately tan tank could use achocolate brown wash. Black panellines on an all-white airplane are toostark; use medium gray. Light tomedium gray looks good on a blackairplane. For the A-1 shown here,neutral gray was used for the under-sides, cockpit, gear bays, and land-ing gear struts, and black for theupper-surface camouflage.

Mix five parts of water and twoparts of Polly Scale water-basedacrylic paint. Add to this three partsof liquid dishwashing detergent, 1.Stir, don’t shake, which creates toomany suds. The result is a thick slip-pery wash called “sludge wash.”

The ratio of paint/soap/waterisn’t critical, and you can adjust it toyour desire. If you find it difficult toremove the excess wash, you needmore soap in the soup.

Slappin’ on the sludgeOnce the model is overcoated withclear gloss and dry, it is ready for thesludge! An old 1⁄8″ brush was used toapply it here. Apply the sludge alongall the recessed panel lines, 2, intoexposed interior areas like landinggear bays, 3, and over intricateitems like landing gear. Vigorousbrushing causes bubbles, so go easy.

The Polly Scale sludge washdries in 15–30 minutes. You’ll knowwhen it’s done: Wet spots look shiny,dry areas flat. A hair dryer speedsthe drying. Once the wash is dry, theexcess can be removed.

Remove the sludge with a dampcloth or use dry cotton swabs forbetter control. Just a little pressureis needed, 4. Roll the swab as youwipe, avoiding paint buildup on thewiping surface. To remove excesswash in tight areas (such as land-ing gear struts), use a Microbrush.The wash gives depth and defini-

tion to the struts and wheels, 5.Once all the excess is removed,

the paint remains inside the panellines and in the corners and lowspots of the bays. Check for areaswithout enough wash and reapply ifnecessary. If you’re not satisfiedwith the wash (maybe the colordoesn’t look right), remove it withsoap, water, and a toothbrush, andstart over. The last step is the finalovercoat of clear flat (or clear gloss)to seal the wash and the decals.

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Add realismMaybe you’ve seen them—you know, those models with theneatly accented panel lines and perfectly shadowed interiors.Just how do those modelers do that?

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A quick, easy “sludge wash” gave a realistic—but subtle—appearance tothe panel lines and recesses on this 1/48 scale Tamiya A-1H Skyraider.

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